Assemble your glass pieces into their final design position. Leave a very thin gap (about 1⁄16 inch (1.6 mm)) between the pieces so the solder will be able to flow into the seam. You can assemble the glass on any hard, heat-resistant surface, but metal work tables are best. This will melt to form the bond between the two pieces of glass. Since most solder contains lead, it's best to wear gloves to prevent accidental poisoning. This can be reversed if you are left-handed. Choose whichever is more comfortable for you. Be very careful picking up the soldering iron--the tip can easily cause serious burns. It might be tempting to lie the solder down on the seams between two pieces of glass and use the iron directly on them, but don't do it. Keep the solder at least 1⁄2 inch (13 mm) above the foil.The best results are achieved by letting the melted solder drop into the seam between the pieces of glass. It will immediately begin to melt the solder and the solder will drop into the seam. Be very careful--the soldering iron is extremely hot.  Don't worry if solder falls onto the glass. It won't stick. If your solder beads up too much, simply run the tip of the soldering iron through it gently. Keep your hands in the same position--one holding the solder, the other holding the soldering iron up to it. Move your hands along the seams of the glass while the solder drips down onto it. Move quickly enough so that the melted solder does not bunch up in one area, but slow enough so that the entire seam gets coated with the bead of solder. You should see a continuous line of solder along the intersection of the two pieces of glass. The glass is now strongly and permanently bonded together. Solder the rest of the glass, moving in the same direction to prevent dripping. It's okay if it's not perfectly even the first time. The more times you practice this process, the more comfortable you will feel and the cleaner your soldering lines will look.
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One-sentence summary -- Position your glass pieces for soldering. Unroll about 4 inches (100 mm) of solder from the coil. Hold the coil of solder in your left hand and the soldering iron in your right hand. Place the tip of the unrolled solder above the copper foil. Touch the tip of the soldering iron to the tip of the unrolled solder. Move both hands along the seam. Remove the tip of the soldering iron when you reach the end of the seam. Repeat until all the glass is soldered.


It is important that these not be built near your base. The walking distance is very time-wasting, the location is passive, and the possibility that you become stuck on the defensive becomes much greater.  In the barracks, research Two-Handed Swordsmen and Champion. Continue to research Iron Casting, Blast Furnace, Chain Mail Armor, and Plate Mail Armor in the blacksmith. The upgrades may not seem like much, but when attacking in such large numbers, it makes a difference. Perfusion is what makes the Goths shine. Barracks units are created 50% faster. Along with Conscription, which makes all military units be created 33% faster, and their team bonus which allows units to be created 20% faster, the creation of Huskarls in the barracks becomes lightning-fast.  Do make sure that you are able to keep up Huskarl production with houses. When a row of 10-12 barracks and fully upgraded barracks and castles produces Huskarls at such fast rates, a team of 6 villagers building houses one at a time becomes far too slow. You must make sure that the population cap does not hinder your spamming. Once you have destroyed one of your enemies, you should create more barracks against other enemies (if you aren't playing in a 1 vs 1). The other barracks should still be pumping out Huskarls until you reach the 210 population limit. Huskarls have strong attack and have a bonus against buildings. But along with that and its fast speed, Huskarls have substantial pierce armor, which makes them almost immune to arrows. They are more expensive to produce than Champions, but Champions do not have the +6 default pierce armor that Huskarls have.  Because of their pierce armor, Huskarls are unusually well-equipped to bring down castles. Champions get the job done as well, but are more susceptible to the Castle's arrows. Usually, other infantry are slaughtered in large numbers. Champions can be spammed as well if you are getting low on resources. They have a slightly greater attack than Huskarls. Trebuchets, while almost required for other civilizations, have a lesser priority than the Huskarls. The main point of Trebuchets is to bring down difficult-to-reach or heavily fortified buildings. However, if your opponent is heavily fortified with walls, Trebuchets should be created. Other siege weapons can be created if you wish, but the advantage of the Huskarl's speed is negated when they are traveling together with the siege units. It is recommended that you set your army to staggered formation in order to reduce the splash damage by Mangonels and Scorpions. Set your army to aggressive (if it hasn't - aggressive is the default) and send your troops to attack castles, town centers, military buildings, monasteries, and most importantly, villagers. Armies in Age of Empires II can consist of a maximum of 40 troops. Remember, you must always constantly be on the offensive. During the Imperial Age, if for any moment that you are not attacking an enemy with your army, you are not taking advantage of the Goths' superior infantry!
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One-sentence summary --
If you haven't already, continue to build the row of 10-12 barracks near your enemy base. Research Conscription, Perfusion and Elite Huskarl in the castle. Spam Huskarls. Attack your enemies!