Summarize the following:
Some waxers use a hair dryer set to low heat to blast it for a few seconds to soften the wax. If you do choose to heat it be careful.  You never want to heat the wax to a liquid state. Others prefer running the closed tin under the hot water tap for a minute or two. The more experienced and familiar you become with wax the less you will need to use these methods. To do this place your forefinger on the surface of the wax, then lift and tilt your hand. This will put your finger at a 90-degree angle and the tip of your nail should just graze the surface. Now slide your fingernail across the wax, from one end of the tin to the other. A shaving of wax will build up on the back of your nail. With your thumb and forefinger work the wax into a pea size ball. The wax should become warm and very workable. Repeat this process on the other side of your stache. Now, with a comb or children's toothbrush, rake the wax through the whiskers. Finally, it is time to mold and shape. Make sure your beard is completely dry. Adding wax to a damp or wet beard reduces its effectiveness. It may take you a few times before you have a good idea exactly how much wax you'll need for your beard. A good rule of thumb is that you should start with a small amount and only add more if needed. If you are just trying to keep the hair out of your mouth, use the comb or brush to part the hair. When this is done on a daily basis the whiskers will become trained. The freshly waxed moustache may appear greasy at first but as it dries and stiffens this will change. A good wax will not be visible in your bristles or flake. If you are experiencing any of these issues discontinue use. The benefits of using an organic wax over a petrochemical based one is not only will it give you a great, safe hold but often the ingredients in organic waxes will penetrate the hair shaft giving your stache a deep conditioning, thus strengthening the bristles over time. Petroleum Jelly does not penetrate the hair shaft, but coats it, creating a moisture barrier.

summary: Use wax in a tin as it will be less malleable; this wax works best above room temperature. Simply scrape off the wax with the nail of their thumb or forefinger. Flatten the ball between your fingers and rub the wax back and forth. Begin to work the wax into your moustache, start from the center and work your way out to the tips. Depending on the length of your whiskers and the style you are aiming to achieve, you may need to add some more wax. Look at the results. Consider going organic.


Summarize the following:
A degreasing solution is recommended for oily or heavily handled silver. If there is oxidization on the surface, you may need to place the silver in a pickle solution before soldering. Optionally, you may use 1000 grit sandpaper to make a rougher surface for joining. Prepare the flux according to instructions on the packaging, if it is not ready to use. Use a small paintbrush to apply this flux onto the silver object(s). Some people apply flux only where the solder will be present, in order to limit the amount of solder that flows to the wrong place. Others prefer to apply the flux over a larger area to minimize the risk of fire damage, but this is not recommended for beginners. Using a small amount of flux in a separate container is recommended, as repeatedly dipping a brush into the original bottle may add dirt and affect its function. Lay the two components next to each other on the soldering brick. Position them exactly as you want them to be joined, noting that they must be physically touching to be joined properly. Use a pair of tweezers to pick up a solder chip and gently place it on one end of the crack or gap to be joined. Once melted, the solder will be drawn by the heat anywhere flux was applied, so you do not need to cover the entire length of the gap. Light your torch and adjust the heat to its highest setting. Begin by holding the torch about 4 inches (10 cm) away from the joint, moving it constantly in small circles to ensure even heating of all components. Slowly move the flame closer to the joint, focusing on the metal objects near the solder, not the solder itself. When the solder reaches its melting point, it will quickly melt and be pulled onto the fluxed areas of the silver.  If one of the objects to be joined is thicker than the other, heat the thicker object from the back until the solder starts to melt, then heat the thin object briefly.  Use tweezers if necessary to hold the objects in place, but place them on the far end of the silver, away from the flame. You may need to hold down small, thin areas of the silver to provide a heat sink, preventing the thin area from melting. Let the object cool for a minute, then cool it further by dipping it into a water bath. The "pickle" solution described in the work area section is an acidic bath used to clean the jewelry after soldering. Lower the silver into this bath using copper tongs, and leave it for a few minutes to remove the flux and oxidization. Avoid all contact with your skin, clothing, or steel tools, as the pickle bath can be corrosive. Rinse the newly joined silver with water.  Pat dry with a clean cloth. If the process was completed correctly, the silver should remain joined permanently.
summary: Clean the silver. Apply flux to the joint. Position your silver components to be joined. Position the solder onto the joint. Heat the objects until the solder melts. Dip the object in water, then immerse it in a pickle solution. Rinse the silver.