Q: Animals can get in to your house through holes, cracks, vents, and other openings, and the best way to prevent them from getting inside and dying in your home is to cover these entry points. Be sure to cover holes larger than one half-inch (1.25 cm) in diameter, vents, chimneys, crawl spaces, gaps, and cracks. Use materials such as concrete, metal wire, and mortar, otherwise animals will chew through the materials to gain entry into your home. Animals will be more likely to come into your home if they are attracted to something outside it, such as food or water. To remove these attractants, you should:  Remove standing water from around your home Clean up birdseed and pet food Store garbage and compost in rodent-proof containers  Pick up fallen fruits and vegetables from the garden Pick up pet droppings Piles of wood, trash, overgrown bushes, and overhanging branches can all be used by animals as either shelter or ways to access otherwise inaccessible parts of your home. Be sure to clean up debris from around your home and keep plants, trees, and grasses cut back and maintained.  For instance, a thicket of overgrown bushes might make a great place for a rodent to make a nest. Branches hanging over your house might allow animals to access your home from the roof. Similarly, debris, garbage, and organic matter piled up against your home could give animals access to higher entry points they wouldn't be able to reach.
A: Cover up holes and entry points. Clean up food sources. Remove debris from around your home.

Q: Make sure the probe is snug around the finger.   If your oximeter has a monitor attached, make sure this sits above the fingernail. If your oximeter has a plug, be sure the cable runs through the back of your hand. This helps minimize motion, as well as ensures that a good supply of blood will get to your finger. Holding your arm up in the air will drain blood away from the test site and lead to an inaccurate reading. After being placed on your finger, the oximeter should display your readings within about five to 10 seconds. If your model also measures pulse, this may take a little longer to calculate fully. Oximeter display styles vary, but the oxygen saturation reading is usually the top number, in percentage form. Consult the device's owner's manual if you are unsure how to read your oximeter's display If the oximeter fails to display a reading, try removing it and placing it back on your finger. If this doesn't work, make sure there are fresh batteries in the machine. Some newer oximeters store data or transmit readings to a computer. If you don't have one of these, make sure to write down all your readings and show them to your doctor. A normal oxygen saturation reading is 95% or above; 92-94% indicates that there may be a problem. Lower than 92% could be an emergency. If your hands aren't cold, you aren't wearing nail polish, you didn't move during the test, and the oximeter wasn't exposed to direct light, you should contact your doctor immediately if you read below normal.
A: Clamp the probe onto your index finger. Rest your hand on your chest at your heart level. Assess your reading. Keep a log of your readings. Contact your doctor if your oxygen reading is low.

Q: Clematis flowers come in an enormous range of shapes and colors, from pink blooms that span 6 inches across to drooping blue bells to starry white flowers. They've grown in popularity in recent years, so many nurseries offer dozens of varieties to choose from. When you decide which cultivar to buy, take the color, shape, potential side and sun requirements into account. Clematis often take several years to flower, so look for a potted plant that's already a year or two old. Here are the most common clematis cultivars:   Nelly Moser: Has large, pink flowers and is one of the most common types of clematis. It's hardy and easy to establish.  Ernest Markham: Has stunning magenta flowers and grows vigorously on trellises and arbors. This variety blooms last, from late spring to fall.  Niobe: Has red flowers and is a suitable choice for growing in a pot, since it doesn't get very large.  Princess Diana: Has pale pink, bell-shaped flowers and does particularly well in very hot climates.  Jackmanii: Has deep purple blooms and grows vigorously; a widely available favorite.  Venosa Violacea: Has abundant blue-violet blooms and vines that climb vigorously.  Apple Blossom: Has small white blooms; grows as an evergreen. Clematis may come in an amazing range of shapes and sizes, but they have similar needs when it comes to sun and temperature. They are hardy plants that require at least 6 hours of full sun per day.  Clematis are hardy from growing zone 3 to zone 9.  A few varieties of clematis will grow in partial shade, but they won't reach their full potential unless they have full sun for 6 hours per day. Look for a spot with low-growing perennials and groundcover that will shade the roots of the clematis but allow it to grow into full sun about 3 or 4 inches off of the ground. Clematis need cool roots and full sun on the vine and flowers. If you can't find a spot with groundcover, you can plant it later or mulch 4 in (10.2 cm) deep around the clematis to keep the roots cool. You can also plant clematis near the base of a shrub or small tree. The clematis will grow up the branches without harming the "companion" shrub or tree. The location shouldn't be so dry that it doesn't retain moisture, but it should drain well enough that standing water doesn't sit around the roots of the clematis. To test whether the soil in an area drains well, dig a hole and fill it with water. If the water drains immediately, the soil is on the sandy side. If the water stands in the hole, the soil has too much clay, and doesn't drain fast enough. If the water slowly but steadily seeps into the soil, it's just right for clematis. Clematis prefer the soil to be neutral or alkaline over acidic. If you conduct a test and determine that the pH is a little too acidic, sweeten the soil by mixing in limestone or wood ash. Dig a hole several inches deeper than the pot the clematis came in, so that when you plant it the soil comes right up to the first set of leaves. Before you plant the clematis, amend the soil by working in compost and granular organic fertilizer. This will ensure that the plant has enough nutrients to establish itself in the first few months after planting. If you're working with soil that tends to be clay heavy (slow to drain), dig the hole a few inches deeper than you normally would. If your soil is sandy (quick to drain), a slightly shallower hole will be better for the plant's roots, so they're close enough to the surface to get plenty of water. Very gently remove the clematis from the pot it came in, taking care not to rip or break the fragile roots and shoots. Set the root ball into the hole, about 3-5 in (7.6-12.7 cm) below the surface of the dirt, and pat the soil around its base stem. The soil should come up to the first set of leaves; if it doesn't, lift out the root ball and dig the hole a bit deeper. Leave the stake in place so that the young clematis has something to grow against for the first year. Place 4 inches of straw or another type of mulch around the base of the clematis to keep the roots cool. You can also plant or encourage the growth of low-growing perennials whose leaves will shade the roots of the clematis throughout the summer.
A:
Pick a clematis cultivar. Choose a sunny location. Choose a spot with well-draining soil. Test the soil for its pH level. Dig a hole and enrich the soil. Plant the clematis. Mulch around the roots.