Use the main fuse box or circuit breaker box to shut it off. Never try to install an attic fan on your roof with the electricity on. It’s also a good idea to turn any wall switches in the attic to the off position. through the roof where you want your fan to go. That way you’ll be able to tell where to cut out the hole when you climb up on the roof later. The pilot hole should be in the center of where the hole will be. Make sure the hole you’re going to cut out will be centered between 2 rafters so the fan fits. The pilot hole you drilled should be in the center of the circle. Use a tape measure to determine the diameter of your fan, or check the manufacturer's specifications. Then, get on the roof and draw the circle around the pilot hole with a piece of chalk.  Wear a hard hat and boots with good traction when you're up on the roof. Ask someone to be there with you when you get on the roof in case you need help for any reason. Don't get on your roof if it's wet or you could slip. A reciprocating saw is a handheld power saw with a blade that rapidly goes in and out of a surface. Use the pilot hole you drilled earlier as a starting point for the saw. Follow along the line you drew with the saw until the hole is cut out. Pop the cut-out section of wall or roofing out from the hole and dispose of it. You need to loosen the shingles so you can slide the attic fan’s flange (the flat rim that extends off the body of the fan) between the shingles and the roof underneath them. If you encounter any nails or staples while you’re loosening the shingles, remove them with the pry bar. Just loosen the 2 corners closest to the hole on each shingle. Don’t take the shingles all the way off. Place the fan flat on the roof just below the hole and gently slide it up into place. As you’re sliding it up, the flange should slip underneath the shingles you loosened. Only the bottom 2 corners of the flange should be exposed. When you’re finished, the center of the fan should be centered directly over the hole you cut. The open vent on the fan should be facing down into your attic, and the closed off top of the fan should be facing up. There should be two screw holes located on the bottom corners of the fan’s flange. Screwing the flange down will secure the attic fan to your roof. Make sure the bottom edge of the flange is squared with the shingles before you screw it down. Roofing adhesives are thick, glue-like substances that can be used to seal things into place. Lift up the shingles you loosened and apply a generous amount of roofing adhesive between the shingles and the fan’s flange. Firmly press the shingles into the adhesive to reattach them to the roof.  You can also apply a dab of roofing adhesive over the screws on the flange to protect them from water damage. You can find a roofing adhesive online or at your local home improvement center. The thermostat is the box you’ll use to control the attic fan. Once you’re back in your attic, look for a rafter that’s close to your fan and screw the thermostat into it using the screws that came with the fan. Look up your local electrical codes online, and prepare to have your wiring inspected by a codes official when you’re finished. Wiring your attic fan on your own can be a safety hazard and result in serious injury. Hire a professional electrician to wire your attic fan if you’re not confident in how to do it yourself.
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One-sentence summary -- Turn off the electricity in your attic. Drill a pilot hole Draw a circle on the roof matching the diameter of your fan. Cut out the circle with a reciprocating saw. Loosen the shingles surrounding the hole with a pry bar. Slide the attic fan over the hole so the flange goes under the shingles. Screw the bottom two corners of the flange into the roof with a drill. Reattach the shingles you loosened using a roofing adhesive. Mount the fan thermostat to a nearby rafter inside your attic. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions on how to wire your attic fan.


There are many different types of light to consider. You can choose from LED,  fluorescent, incandescent, halogen or Xenon lights.  LED lights come in either fixed lengths or in a strip that can be cut. They reduce energy costs and do not require replacement bulbs. They last up to twenty years. Fluorescent bulbs are long-lasting and energy-efficient, but they are harder to conceal. Incandescent bulbs produce a soft, yellowish light and are the most inexpensive option. Their lifespan is short, and they aren't bright enough for utility lighting. Halogen bulbs are bright and shine completely white. They create much more heat than other bulbs, but they also last twice as long as incandescent bulbs. They are more expensive than fluorescent or incandescent. Xenon bulbs are similar to halogen bulbs, but they last longer and radiate less heat. The lighting will require a power source. Plan how you will run cable to the lighting/fixture locations. Determine if you are prepared to run wires, cut holes into the wall, and create new electrical boxes. Alternatively, consider plugging the light fixture into existing outlets or finding battery powered lighting. Plugging in the lighting into an existing outlet means you have to decide how to camouflage the lighting’s power cable.  Consider hiring an electrician if you’re uncomfortable tying the lighting to any electrical wiring.  Make sure you are using a code-compliant source of electricity. Make sure the source of power you selected isn’t dedicated to the refrigerator or any other kitchen appliances. You don’t want to overload the circuit. Make sure the cabinets and counters are free from anything that might obstruct your work. If you need to go through your cabinets for wiring, make sure all the items are removed.
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One-sentence summary --
Choose an under-cabinet lighting kit. Find your source of power. Clear your workspace.