Because whole grains aren't digestible unless cooked, it makes it difficult for raw food enthusiasts to enjoy them. Sprouting grains, however, makes them easily digestible and nutritious. Without cooking, you can enjoy whole grains like rye, wheat, barley, or corn, without baking and breaking down their micronutrients.  Sprouting grain neutralizes difficult-to-digest phytic acid, releasing vitamins and nutrients not generally present in raw grain. This makes it ideal for porridges, baking, and making into sprouted flour.  Hulled oats, like the kind you buy at the store to make oatmeal, won't sprout. To sprout grains, you need to buy whole grains still in their hulls, raw and organic. Other types of grains will just soak. You can ferment oatmeal with miso paste overnight, for a quick live culture option. Grain will triple in size over the soaking process, so it's important to start with a jar or bowl large enough to hold three times the amount of flour that you put into it to soak. Soak the grains for about 6 hours, then drain the water thoroughly and sprout them at room temperature for about 2 days. Rinse periodically and drain thoroughly.  Corn needs to undergo a slightly longer presoak, about 12 hours before draining the water and letting it sprout. Amaranth, quinoa, and millet, commonly-mistaken for varieties of seed or rice, are actually alkaline grains, and are perfectly-sproutable using this method. Barley won't actually sprout, but you can activate the germination process, as is done when malting barley for making alcohol, by "sprouting" it for about 12 hours. This will activate the process and start breaking down the hull. Once the tip of the sprout is about 1/4 inch long, it is ready to be used. Rinse the grains one last time. Lay them on a dry towel, and let them dry. Use immediately, or store in the refrigerator. To turn sprouted grains into flour, you'll need a food dehydrator and a grinder designed for grains. After they've sprouted, dehydrate the grains for about 12 hours and grind them into a fully-integrated and fine flour, sifting if desired. You can store this sprouted flour in the freezer to maintain it's life, and use it as you would any type of baking flour.
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One-sentence summary -- Choose a grain to sprout as a raw alternative. Soak whole grains in warm water. Harvest the sprouts. Make sprouted flour.

Q: While it may be desirable to correct the issue non-surgically, for some people surgery is a good option. Newer methods can do so without severing the milk ducts, making it possible to breastfeed after the procedure. Your doctor or plastic surgeon can help you decide whether you are a good candidate for corrective surgery.  This is a short outpatient procedure involving local anesthesia. You can go home the same day, and, because it is minimally invasive, you will probably be able to return to your routine (work, etc.) the following day. Discuss the procedure with your surgeon. Inform yourself about how the procedure is performed, and what results you can expect. At this time your surgeon will examine your medical history and assess the underlying cause of your condition. Your surgeon will inform you about how to prepare for surgery and what to do afterwards. You will likely have surgical dressings on your nipple after the operation. Change these dressings if and as instructed by your surgeon. Recovery should be relatively painless. If you experience unexpected bruising, swelling, or discomfort during recovery, contact your surgeon immediately. These visits assess the progress of your healing and the success of the procedure. Ask your surgeon when you should come in for your follow-up.
A: Talk to your doctor or plastic surgeon about corrective surgery. Follow pre-operative and post-operative instructions carefully. After the operation, report any questions or concerns to your surgeon. Schedule a post-operative visit with your surgeon.

Article: If the soil is too dry, it will soak up all of the water that is in the bottle. If the soil is dry, water it now. A wine bottle will be ideal, because it will be large enough to water 4 to 6 square feet (0.38 to 0.56 square meters) for up to 3 days. If you don't need to water such a large area, you can use a smaller bottle, such as a soda or beer bottle. Alternatively, you can also use a store-bought watering globe or aqua globe. Don't fill it all the way; just up to where the neck starts will be plenty. At this time, you can also add additional items, such as liquid fertilizers. Use your thumb to plug the hole in the mouth of the bottle when you flip it over. Position the bottle right next to the plant you need to be watered. As you’re pushing the neck into the soil, move your thumb out of the way. Make sure that the bottle's neck is several inches in the soil. It's okay if the bottle leans to the side, but it should be sturdy and secure. If the water is not draining at all, the soil might be clogging the bottle. If this happens, take the bottle out of the soil, clean it, and glue a piece of screening over the mouth. Refill the bottle, and insert it into the soil again. Draw a line on the bottle with a permanent marker, right at the water level. Check back after a few hours (or even a whole day). If the water level is below the line you drew, the water is draining properly. If the water level has not changed, something might be blocking it.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Make sure that the soil is completely saturated. Get a glass bottle with a narrow neck. Fill the bottle with water, place your thumb it, and turn it upside down. Push the bottle neck into the soil. Make sure that the water is draining properly.

Article: Use your old brake lines as guides, cutting each line ahead of time so that you can visualize how much extra tubing you have (or need to buy, if you're short). "Chamfering" is simply creating a slope at the end. You want to use a file or a bench grinder to slant roughly 1/2" of the end. It will look a bit like a pencil without the lead in the center. You want to install the fitting so that it can be screwed on over your flare. Make sure you add the fitting now, as it can be difficult to add later. Most lines are flared on both ends, so make sure you add two fittings, pointing opposite directions, before beginning. The long free piece of the flaring tool should be clamped firmly into a table vice, keeping it in place as you put pressure down to flair the line. The actual flaring tool should hang over the edge of the table, as the brake lines need to drop down below the tool as you work. You can do this free-handed if you don't have a vice, but it is much easier with one. This is the part you'll be flaring, but you don't need much exposed to make your connection. 1-2mm above the flaring base should be enough. Note how, in the video, the tube is in the far left hole of the flaring tool. Thus, the left-most screw is tightened first, keeping the tube in place, before the screw on the right is tightened. These only need to be hand-tightened. You want a nice flat surface to create your connection. Make sure it has a nice flat top. Take a small reaming tool and insert it straight into the top of the line, rotating it with even pressure down into the tube. This will ream out the inside edge of the tube.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Cut the tubing to the required length with your tubing cutter. Chamfer the ends of the tubes that you'll be double-flaring. Slide the fitting onto the line, with the threading facing the side you just cut. Mount your flaring base in a vice. Slide the tube into the appropriate sized hole on the flaring base so that the chamfered end barely pokes out the top. Tighten the flaring base around the tube, starting with the screws closest to your brake tube. File down the top of the tube so that it is flush with the flaring tool. Use a reaming tool to clean out the inside edge.