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Water follows gravity, so if it’s collecting in a depression, raise the ground in that area. First, rake up the affected topsoil with a landscape rake so it mixes well with the soil to be added. Then collect soil from a higher site and use your rake to redistribute it over the low-lying area, tilling it well to mix it with the original soil. Fill the depression almost all the way, with about 2 inches (5 cm) to spare. Fill the last two inches by laying sod so its roots prevent the soil from washing away.  Remember to keep the slope of your lawn running downward from your house, not toward it. Your lawn’s slope should ideally lower by a couple inches (5 cm) every ten feet (3 m) from your house. . If the roof of your house or shed is adding water to a certain spot in your hard, redirect the water by installing water gutters and drains. Definitely do this if water is pooling directly alongside your house, since it may get into the foundation and create mold and cracks. Make sure you place your drains where the ground slopes away from your house so you don’t create a new problem while solving the old one.  Installing a rain barrel to collect water from your gutters is a great way to minimize the amount that your lawn has to absorb. It’s also a great no-waste practice, as the rainwater can be used to water plants. Map out a creek bed that will carry water downhill from the affected area. Remove 12 to 15 inches (30 to 38 cm) of soil along this course. Compact the ground so the bed is flat and the sides are angled up and outward, away from the bed, so surrounding water flows in. Cover the bed and sides with landscape fabric to keep weeds and grass from growing. Then add a ½ inch (1.25 cm) layer of pea gravel over the bed. Be mindful of neighbors when plotting your creek’s course. Diverting standing water might solve your drainage issues, but flooding their yard may create a whole new problem.
Regrade your lawn. Install gutters and drains Create a drainage creek.