When you're first learning how to latch hook, it's best to keep things simple. Try following a template for your first few project to get an idea of how the yarn looks on the canvas. From there, you can move on to freehand shapes like lines and circles a shot. As you improve, you'll learn to produce more complex patterns and contours and begin producing your own unique designs. These could be anything from formless swaths of color to distinct patterns like stripes, spirals, waves, and rainbows. Advanced latch hookers have even been known to weave detailed portraits and scenes.  Don't be afraid to be abstract—experiment with yarn placement and weave whatever patterns your eye suggests. It can be helpful to think of the canvas squares as a guide for forming precise edges and curves, similar to drafting paper. Rather than spending hours cutting the yarn to size before you make a single knot, wait until your design comes together, then snip the strands wherever you want them to be shorter. Touching up your work after the fact will offer you more control, as it allows you to make just as much of an adjustment as you need instead of being forced to guess at the right length. Trimming the strands to different lengths can lend added texture and dimension to your finished project. Wrapping, threading, and knotting one strand after another can take all day. By doubling up your yarn, you also stand to double your speed. Line up two separate pieces of the same length, then knot them as you ordinarily would, being careful not to let the two strands overlap in the process.  Since you'll have an extra strand to deal with, you'll need to work carefully to avoid mistakes. This method can be especially useful when you're covering a large area with a single color.
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One-sentence summary -- Start with basic designs. Get creative with your projects. Trim the yarn to the desired length. Use two strands of yarn at once.

Q: You want to leave a nice long tail so you can weave it into your stitches and finish your hat. You should have plenty of yarn left over in your skein, so cut a one-foot tail to be on the safe side. Remove and store your stitch marker at this point. You don’t need it anymore for this project. Thread the tail of the yarn through your tapestry needle. Slip the needle into each of the remaining 10 stitches, pulling the free end of the yarn through the stitches. You should slide each stitch off the needle, onto the free tail. When you’re finished, all the stitches should be off the needles, and you should have some yarn left over hanging loose. There will be a small hole at the center of the 10 stitches. Pull the free tail to tighten up the end of the hat and draw the stitches close. The hole should be drawn into a pinpoint. Turn the hat inside out, then weave the tapestry needle through your stitches to secure the free end of the yarn. This is called “weaving in the ends” of the yarn. When you’re sure that the yarn won’t come loose and unravel your hat, cut the rest of the tail off with scissors. Do the same thing to the free yarn at the brim of the hat, where you cast on your original stitches.
A: Cut the yarn with your scissors. Thread the yarn tail through the remaining stitches. Pull the yarn tight. Weave the free yarn into your stitches.

Article: Gently rinse the foot under lukewarm water, or fill a bucket with clean warm water and submerge the paw. Submerging the paw is helpful for washing out any debris that may be in the area. If necessary, you can use tweezers to remove any debris. If your dog's paw continues to bleed after you have removed any debris and washed the wound, use a clean bandage or cloth to apply light pressure to the area until the bleeding stops. If you cannot control the bleeding after 5 minutes of continuous pressure, seek veterinary care. Lying the dog down and elevating the injured paw will help slow the bleeding. You will need to apply an antiseptic like povidone-iodine (e.g., Betadine, Pyodine, and Wokadine) to kill any germs near the wound. Applying the antiseptic at full strength, however, can burn your dog's paw. Diluting to a solution of one part povidone-iodine to 10 parts warm water is suggested. It will appear to be the color of weak tea. Once any blood and debris are removed and the wound has been cleaned, swab the area with a cotton ball saturated in the diluted povidone-iodine solution and allow the area to air dry. You can either use a salve designed for humans, such as bacitracin (e.g., Neosporin) or one developed specifically for dogs (Vetericyn). The antibacterial ointment will help prevent infection and is safe if your dog happens to lick it. The first layer on the wound should be sterilized and nonstick. It should be large enough to cover the entire injury. Some good brands for non-adhering dressing pads include Telfa and Medtronic. You can find them at most pharmacies and some grocery stores or convenience stores. Lightly wrap the absorbent pad and the foot pad with a self-adhering bandage designed for animals (such as Vertrap, Pet-Flex, or Pet Wrap). Leave the front toes out, and wrap the paw up to the wrist joint. The claws of the paw should be nearly touching. If the claws are separated or if the foot feels cold, you  have tied the bandage too tight. Remove and try again.  This will not only protect the injury from being infected, it will also offer additional cushioning for the foot pad. Be sure the pressure is appropriate for your dog; you don't want to cut off his circulation. The wrapping should be snug enough that it stays on their foot but loose enough that you can place two fingers under the bandaging. Tying the bandage too tight can cut off the blood supply to the paw and may even cause limb death. Call your vet if you are worried about tying the bandage too tightly.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Clean the wound. Stop the bleeding. Dilute your disinfectant. Apply the disinfectant. Cover the wound with antibacterial ointment. Place an absorbent pad on the wound. Wrap the injured paw and protect it from additional injury.

Article: You can either use fresh lemon juice, or lemon juice from a bottle. The lemon juice will be added to the jar along with the tomatoes. The juice helps to prevent the tomatoes from spoiling while they are in the jars, and also helps to retain the color and flavor of the tomatoes. Place the jars on a heat resistant surface and begin spooning the quartered tomatoes into the jars. Fill the jars until there is only about ½ of an inch of space left at the top of the jars. Add two tablespoons of lemon juice. You should also add either boiling water or hot tomato juice so that the jar is filled up to ½ an inch away from the top. You could also consider adding other ingredients to enhance the flavor of the tomatoes. Cloves of garlic, peppers, or a sprig of basil make delicious additions to canned tomatoes. Once you have added the lemon juice, gently press on the tomatoes with a spoon to release air bubbles. Air bubbles are bad because they can let bacteria get into the jars, thus spoiling your canned tomatoes. You should also slide a sterilized knife or plastic spoon along the inside wall of the jar, releasing any air trapped there. Place a lid on top of the jar and screw on the band with your hands.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Choose your lemon juice. Fill the jars with the tomatoes. Remove any air. Wipe away any drips along the top and sides of the jar.