Problem: Article: The paint will stick best to a smooth, dirt-free surface. Dip a washcloth in soap and warm water and clean any dust or debris from the plastic's surface.  For a thorough cleaning or to remove stubborn dirt, immerse the object in water instead.  Dry the object off with a cloth before painting it. Sanding provides texture to help the paint stick. Rub the fine-grit sanding block with firm pressure over the plastic's surface. When you're finished sanding, wipe away any dust with a dry brush. If you don't have a dry brush, a paint brush works as an alternative. Spray a coat of paint primer over the object's surface. Avoid spraying one area for too long to keep the coat even and light. Let the primer dry for the time recommended on the packaging, which should be between 30 minutes to an hour.  You can buy plastic primer online or from most craft stores. Thin primer coats are ideal because heavy or multiple coats can change the object's texture. Hold the nozzle about 12–18 inches (30–46 cm) away from the surface and move the can in smooth strokes over the object. Continue spraying the paint in overlapping strokes until you cover the entire surface.  Apply 3-4 coats to strengthen the paint's color, waiting for it to dry in-between coats. Each coat should take about 30-60 minutes to dry—check the paint's packaging for a specific time. After the last paint coat dries, spray the entire surface with a clear paint primer. This will prevent the paint from fading, discoloring, or chipping over time. Paint primer is especially important if you will use your object outside, where it will be subject to the elements.
Summary: Wash the plastic object with soap and water. Sand the surface with a 220-grit sanding block. Apply a coat of primer to help the paint stick. Spray a coat of black spray paint on the plastic. Protect the newly-applied paint with a clear primer.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: The drying process for a down jacket takes quite a long time, but you can help it along by removing as much moisture as possible from the coat.  Run the jacket through two or three additional spin cycles after the second rinse is complete. If possible, increase the speed of the spin with each cycle.  Squeeze the jacket by hand to remove excess moisture if you don’t have a washing machine. Don’t wring the jacket, as this could damage the feathers. Then, lay the jacket to hang on a radiator or hang it to dry. After the spin cycles, place your jacket into the dryer along with two or three clean tennis balls. As the tennis balls bounce around in the dryer with the jacket, they will fluff the feathers inside. This fluffing will prevent the feathers from clumping together, and help return their loft.  Be warned that the drying process can take up to three hours, but do not increase the heat above low. Higher heat can damage or melt parts of the jacket.  Tumble drying is the recommended method for drying down jackets, because air drying can take so long, and eventually the jacket can start to smell. However, if you don’t have a dryer, dry the jacket over a radiator if possible, or hang it to air dry. As the jacket dries, remove it from the dryer every 30 minutes to shake the jacket vigorously and break up feather clumps. You know the jacket is dry when the feathers stop clumping together, and when it feels light and fluffy again. Even if you're radiator or air drying your jacket, be sure to shake it out every half hour to break up clumps. When the jacket is fully dry, give it a final shake. Hang it somewhere to air out for a couple hours before wearing or storing the jacket. Never compress a wet down jacket, as this can destroy some of its ability to insulate properly.

SUMMARY: Run the jacket through multiple spin cycles. Tumble dry on low. Fluff the jacket as it dries. Hang the jacket to air.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: If the leather is naked or aniline, it has no protective treatment, and will need to be cleaned by a professional. Wet a paper towel, and let one drop of water fall onto the leather. If it soaks into the leather instantly, do not attempt to clean it yourself. If it remains in a bead on the surface, however, the leather can withstand home treatment. If it is a fresh, still-wet stain, you stand a good chance of being able to nip this problem in the bud. If the stain is old and well set, however, the leather will likely need to be professionally re-dyed. Many leather objects come with instructions or a tag that offer instructions for cleaning. This may give you an idea of what will and will not work in removing a stain. Apply whatever cleaning agent you plan on using to an inconspicuous part of the leather object. It should be an area rarely, if ever, visible. Let it dry, and see how the leather holds up. Because time is of the essence with leather stains, if the stain is still wet, you may not want to wait for the spot test to fully dry before moving on to the actual stain. This is a bit of a gamble, so you need to weigh your concerns about doing further damage by cleaning against your concerns about allowing the stain to set. There is no single right answer, as the right course of action varies from leather to leather.
Summary:
See if the leather is finished or unfinished. Evaluate how old the stain is. Consult the instructions. Do a spot test.