A little forethought can go a long way towards keeping your fish healthy and your aquarium fun to maintain. Do a little research on what kind of fish you want, (described in further detail later in this article) and then select a tank that will accommodate them. The tank you choose needs to be large enough to hold enough water for the type and number of fish you plan to have. Different fish need different amounts of room and produce different amounts of waste. In general, the larger the fish are, the more waste they make and the more water is needed. Keep in mind that live plants and other decorations will also take up space.  There exist various calculators to help you decide what fish are safe to keep based on tank size, compatibility, and needs. The one-inch per gallon rule you may have heard is a rule of thumb that scales quite poorly to smaller or larger tanks. You would never keep two five-inch fish in a 10 gallon (37.9 L) aquarium! A 55 gallon (208.2 L) tank is a standard size that will allow you to have a variety of fish. As a beginner, you probably don't want to go larger than this just yet. You could also go with a 20 or 25 gallon (75.7 or 94.6 L) tank for a starter tank and keep just a few hardy fish (Mollies, guppies, platys, tetra, small cory cats and no cichlids) to see if you like the hobby. It is not recommended to start out with anything less than 10 gallons (37.9 L) - meaning no "Desktop" aquariums or the small, single Betta holders. As tempting as it is, it is actually harder to maintain good water quality in a small tank. Aquariums that hold 20 gallons (75.7 L) or more will need a stand no matter what. The only exception is if they are on a heavy, well-anchored counter. Buy one that is designed for the dimensions and shape of your tank. Don't underestimate the weight of a full fish tank! Make sure the stand is either rated for the size of your tank or that it has been custom built to be very sturdy. It is vital to the integrity of the tank it will hold that it be sturdy enough to hold the tank's weight. In addition, it is not safe to have an edge of the tank sticking out over the side.  Furniture like dressers, TV stands, end tables/buffets, or flimsy wooden desks aren't strong enough. Look for complete tank kits at those big box pet stores. Used setups from websites like Craigslist are often available for great prices, but be sure to check for leaks and clean very well before use. If you don't buy a complete setup, make sure the equipment you choose is rated for the size of your tank. Choosing the right spot is important for the health of your fish. You'll want to put it in a place where the temperature remains pretty consistent and the amount of light doesn't get overpowering. Allow at least 5 inches (12.7 cm) between the wall and the aquarium to make room for the filter. Some things to keep in mind when choosing location for your tank:  Too much sunlight will cause excessive algae growth and a maintenance nightmare.  An interior wall, away from bright light, is best. Try to stay away from putting the tank under a vent - dust will blow out and drop into the fish tank. It will also be harder to maintain a consistent water temperature, something that is important for all fish but vital for some. It is also important to consider the ability of the floor to support the weight of the fully loaded aquarium.  Make sure that there is adequate structural support under the floor. If necessary find your home's blueprints and look for crossbeams. Choose a location near an outlet, and keep in mind how far you will have to haul water for weekly tank maintenance! No cords should be straining to get to the outlet either. In fact, it's a good idea all around to get a surge protector power strip (which you'll love when the power snaps back on after an outage) and go from there. Set up your tank stand ideally on a wooden floor, not a rug or carpet.

Summary: Choose a fish tank. Get an aquarium stand. Decide where to put the aquarium and stand.


Clean the sink thoroughly first. Then stop up the sink drain. Fill the sink basin with tap water and add several ice cubes. There should be more water than ice in the sink or bowl.  If you prefer, you can use a large bowl such as a punch bowl wherein you can fully submerge your face. Add some slices of and cucumber or chunks of watermelon if desired. Hold your breath and dip your face into the ice water for ten to thirty seconds. Do this several times, with a few seconds to a few minutes in between.  The feeling of this process is intense, and has a temporary side effect of discomfort or pain due to the sudden temperature change. If it doesn’t feel at all intense, you may want to add a bit more ice. Other than temporary discomfort, icing your face shouldn’t cause any negative side effects, as some skin products can.  Don’t do this for longer than fifteen minutes. After facial skin icing, apply skin products if desired. For instance, moisturizer, toner or acne treatment (if needed). If your skin tends to get dry, go with a moisturizer. If your skin is on the oily side, use toner, an astringent which removes the film of oil leftover from cleansers. Saturate cotton pads with skin product and apply it to your face and neck.

Summary: Fill the sink or a bowl with cold water. Submerge your face. Follow up with your regular skin care products.


Once you've placed your bridge, you'll want to check to make sure its placement is correct. Lay your violin down on a flat surface. Get down to the violin's level. The side of the bridge facing the violin's tailpiece should stand at a roughly 90 degree. The other side of the bridge should be sloped forward slightly. If the bridge is not forming a 90 degree angle, you may have put it in place backwards. You'll have to remove the bridge and start over. Your bridge should be in the center of the violin. It should not be too far to the left or right. If your bridge is leaning to the right or the left, gently push it until it's in the center of the violin. You can simply eyeball to see if the bridge is in the center by glancing at the violin from a bird's eye angle. If you want to be extra sure the bridge is positioned correctly, however, you can use a ruler or measuring tape to measure the length of each end of the bridge to the end of the violin. The measurements should be roughly equal. The bridge should be between the f-holes, roughly falling between the middle of each hole. The bridge may have slipped slightly while you were tightening the strings, so once again check. Make sure you can drawn an imaginary line through the center of each f-hole that runs through the bridge. If the bridge has moved, gently slide it up or down until it's in the right place.
Summary: Make sure the bridge is standing at a 90 degree angle. Check to make sure the bridge is in the center of the violin. Make sure the bridge falls roughly in the middle of the f-holes.