. Make sure to pick your cooling rack according to the size of the cake you are baking. 10-inches seems to be the largest standard pan size (for bundt cakes and round cakes), so a rack that is at least 10-inches across should serve just about all of your needs. Cooling racks are an essential tool for any baker as they help your cake cool evenly and quickly. Here are a few things to consider:  Pick a wire rack that is easy to fit in your dishwasher and in the area you plan to store it. Cooling racks work by allowing air to circulate under your cake, which helps prevent condensation which could make the bottom soggy. Once your cake is fully cooked, use oven mitts to carefully take it out of the oven and place the pan directly on your cooling rack. If you are cooling a cheesecake, you can simply turn off the oven and leave your cake inside to cool for about an hour. This allows the delicate cake to cool slowly, which will help prevent it from cracking. At this point, it is a good idea to check your cooking instructions for cooling time guidelines. Cooling time can vary considerably depending on the type of cake you are baking. As a rule of thumb, expect to cool your cake on the rack for 10-15 minutes. The cake pan should be resting on the rack to ensure that the bottom of the cake pan has airflow. Remove your cake pan from the cooling rack and place it on the counter. Use a sharp knife or butter knife and run it along the edges of the pan between the rim of the pan and the cake. Be sure to keep your knife vertical so you don't accidentally cut into the sides of your cake. Run the knife around the edges a couple times to loosen your cake from the pan. Before transferring your cake directly to the cooling rack, you will need to lightly spray your rack with cooking spray. Since your cake will still be slightly warm, placing it on a rack with cooking spray will prevent it from sticking to the wire rack. Hold the cooling rack over the top of the pan and slowly turn the pan upside down. Gently tap the bottom of the pan until the cake releases. Slowly lift the pan away to transfer your cake to the cooling rack. Before removing your cake from the pan, consider this:  If you are cooling a cheesecake, you won't want to attempt to transfer your cake to the wire rack. Cheesecakes are very delicate and this could ruin your cake. If you are cooling a pound cake, removing your cake from the pan sooner will help keep it from getting too soggy. If you are cooling an angel food cake, you may want to skip the wire rack and place it upside down on the counter instead. To cool your cake upside down, turn the pan upside down and set the tube part over the neck of a stable bottle. Turning it upside down for cooling helps prevent it from collapsing as it cools. Remember to use oven mitts when handling the pan. Since the pan hasn't been out of the oven for very long, it may still be hot enough to burn you. After letting your cake fully cool for 1-2 hours, you can transfer it to a plate or platter and frost and decorate however you wish.

Summary: Choose the right cooling rack Remove your cake from the oven. Let your cake sit. Loosen your cake from the pan. Spray your cooling rack. Transfer your cake directly to the rack (optional). Remove your cake from the cooling rack.


Place a sheet of brown paper on a flat surface. Smooth out the paper, then set your picture frame on top of it facing down. Grab the long edges of the paper and pull them over the picture frame, securing them with artist tape. Then, fold the small edges of the paper in, pull them over the picture frame, and hold them in place with more tape. You can purchase brown shipping paper at most craft and shipping supply stores. Buy 4 protective cardboard corners, typically available at a craft supply or shipping store. If they do not come pre-built, put them together by following the instructions included with the purchase or printed on the corners themselves. Then, place a cardboard protector on every corner of your picture frame, better shielding them from impact damage. Grab a sheet of cardboard that is about the same size as your painting. Lay it over the top side of the picture frame so that the glass has an extra layer of defense. Though not necessary, you can secure it to the brown paper with artist tape if you wish. Put down a piece of bubble wrap and set your picture frame on top of it. Grab the long ends of the the protective material and wrap them tightly around your frame, securing them with masking tape. Then, fold the short ends up over the frame and tape them down. For picture frames containing particularly valuable works of art, add 1 to 2 additional layers of bubble wrap. Look for bubble wrap at discount, craft, and shipping supply stores.

Summary: Wrap brown paper around the frame. Use cardboard covers to protect the frame corners. Put a cardboard sheet on the top side of your picture frame. Cover your picture frame with bubble wrap.


Take a piece of rectangular paper and place it in front of you so the paper is in portrait format, with the longer edges to the side. Fold it in half lengthwise from top to bottom, so  that the fold is at the "top" of the piece of paper. Your paper ship is now complete! It’s ready to take out for a sail on the storm-tossed seas- O.K., maybe just the backyard kiddie pool.

Summary: Fold paper in half. Look at your creation.


Copper rivets with washers tend to be larger than your everyday rivets. Make sure when you punch the hole that it’s big enough for a wider rivet post to get through. It should be big enough that you can push the rivet post through the leather but not so big that it slips right through. You should have at least 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) of rivet post above the surface of your leather. Push the rivet up from the bottom of the leather. Flip your leather over so you can see where the post sticks up through the leather. Set the washer over the post so that it’s flat against the leather. The anvil should be big enough to accommodate the piece of leather you’re working on. You should be able to work on the rivet on a flat surface. A copper rivet setter is silver, and is almost shaped like a lighter. On one end, you’ll see a concave circle, with a smaller, hollow circle next to it. Place the setter over the rivet post and on top of the washer, making sure the post goes into the hollow circle on the setter. You might need two or three taps to make sure everything is set. Don’t pound too hard, as this can ruin the rivet. When you’re done, the washer should be completely flat against the leather. If you notice that the washer seems to be higher on one side of the post than the other, give it another bang to make sure it’s set all the way around. With the same mallet or hammer, pound down on the post a few times. You should hit the setter fairly hard for this step, because what you’re doing is getting the post to expand and flatten out. This will keep the washer in place and your rivet secure.
Summary: Punch a hole in the leather. Push your rivet through the leather. Set the washer. Set the leather and rivet on an anvil. Set up a copper rivet setter. Tap on the setter with a mallet or hammer. Set the concave section of the setter over the post.