Zippo lighters are generally made to be reusable. In order to refill a zippo lighter, you'll need zippo lighter fluid, a small flathead or pin, and a zippo lighter. You can buy lighter fluid online, or at the store where you purchased your zippo lighter. Open the case of your zippo lighter. Grab the edge of the lighter and pull it out of its case. It might be a little hard to get out if it's a newer lighter. ” Zippo lighters make it easy for you to figure out how to refill them. There is a small lever on the bottom of a zippo lighter that reads "lift to refill." Use your fingers to lift this lever. If you can't get it opened using your fingers, this  is where you would use a pushpin or flathead to lift the lever. Now, take your bottle of lighter fluid. Insert the nozzle of the bottle into the compartment just under the lever. Squirt some fluid into the lighter. Do this just until the padding on the inside of the lighter is damp. Once you're done, close the lever. Once you're done, reinsert your lighter into the case. It should not be ready for use. Under no circumstances should you light your zippo lighter when its out of its case. Lighter fluid may have dripped during the process. You could end up burning your hand or causing the lighter to explode.

Summary: Gather your materials. Pull the lighter out of the metal case. Lift the lever that reads, “Lift to Fill. Squirt Zippo Premium fluid into the lighter. Reinsert the lighter into the case.


You want your foot to be at a 45 degree angle with the edge of the deck. The outer edge of your foot should be right up against the edge of the brake.  If you’re regular footed (your right foot is dominant), your legs and feet should be turned toward the right side of the scooter. If you’re goofy footed (your left foot is dominant), your legs and feet should be turned toward the left side of the scooter. Your big toe on your dominant foot should be lined up with the groove on the inside of your other foot. The inner edges of both of your feet should be touching. Wrap your fingers around the grips so you have a firm hold on the handle bars. Use your back foot to propel yourself forward whenever you want the scooter to move. Place your foot back on the deck in the same position it was in before.

Summary: Place your dominant foot on the back of the scooter deck. Place your other foot on the scooter deck next to your dominant foot. Place your hands on the handle bar grips. Kick off with your back foot.


Use a small hand vacuum, or hold the furniture-cleaning nozzle of a standard vacuum cleaner. Walk around your infested plants and suck the pests from the undersides of the leaves and foliage. This method is quick and straightforward, and it can remove whiteflies from all stages of the development cycle – from larvae to mature, plant-munching adults. Vacuuming is most effective as soon as you notice an infestation. When the vacuum bag is full of whiteflies, trade it out. Seal the vacuum bag inside an airtight plastic bag, then put it into the freezer for at least 24 hours to kill off the insects. Once all of the flies are dead, you can empty the bag into the trash. Use garden clippers to trim away as much as you can without killing the plant. You can also pluck infested leaves by hand. Look for white eggs and wingless "crawlers" on the underside of the leaves. Extremely infested leaves may be coated with a sticky or waxy fluid—honeydew—that is produced when the feeding nymphs ingest plant juices. Leaves may also appear pale and wilted.  Only trim as much as is healthy for the plant. If a particularly delicate plant is infested, you should cut away only the most infected leaves. If the plant is hardy, consider paring all the way down to the stem in order to stop the infestation in its tracks.  Make sure to properly dispose of the diseased leaves. Burn them or seal them into an airtight bag. If you don't handle the leaves carefully, the whitefly infestation may spread again. The whitefly matures in 4 stages: from eggs, to nymphs, to pupa, to the adult fly. Each method typically only targets certain stages in the fly life cycle. Thus, if a method targets the adult fly, you will need to keep applying that treatment until all of the existing eggs have matured into adults. You will need to be quick and diligent in your treatments to make sure that the newly-formed adults do not lay new eggs.  The nymph and adult flies are the only stages that cause physical damage to the host plant. Younger whiteflies will, however, mature into more damaging forms if left unchecked. For the best application timeframe, check the lifespan and stages of your particularly whitefly. Various species—including the Silverleaf, Fig, Greenhouse, and Bandedwing whitefly—each have a different lifespan. Put one good squirt of dish soap into 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water and mix well. Pay special attention to the undersides of the leaves, where most of the whiteflies live. Be aware that this method only kills the adult insect. Wash every 3 or 4 days to eliminate the new whiteflies as they emerge from pupa. Depending on the type of whitefly, you may need to continue this treatment for several weeks until the infestation is gone. If you use a highly-concentrated soapy solution, try applying it at the end of the day to avoid burning the foliage. Various other species of insect love to feed upon the whitefly, and you might be able to rein in the infestation by bringing the right predator into the ecosystem. This predator will depend on the type of whitefly. Consider green lacewings, lady beetles, ladybugs, minute pirate bugs, big-eyed bugs, wasps, and damsel bugs. Be careful when intentionally introducing any new insect species to your garden. The predators may take care of your whitefly infestation – but you may soon find yourself contending with far too many of the new bug! Research before you act.

Summary: Vacuum the flies. Remove the severely diseased leaves and branches. Prepare for repeated applications. Wash your plants with a soap solution. Introduce a natural predator.


In order to receive a Beginner Paragliding Rating (P-1), you must enroll in a basic ground school. These courses are offered by certified paragliding schools. While attending this school, you will acquire the knowledge necessary to pass a Beginner Paragliding written exam, such as the skills required to assess weather and wind conditions. To obtain a p-1 rating, you must demonstrate your ability to master the canopy, or sail. The skills you must master include:  The ability to properly layout a canopy and harness preflight. The ability to launch a canopy under control.  The ability to remain connected to the canopy while remaining clear of lines and risers (the points at which the lines attach to the harness) prior to inflation.  The ability to deflate, immobilize, disconnect, and remove the canopy. The ability to properly pack, store, and care for the canopy. To obtain your P-1 rating, you must also demonstrate your ability to launch, fly, and land a paraglider solo.  When launching, your inflation run must be smooth and exhibit your confidence. You must maintain directional control and control of the pendulum. Your transition from running to flying must be smooth.  You must complete two flights that exhibit your ability to maintain a constant airspeed, fly smoothly and straight towards a predetermined target, and land safely into the wind. You must complete two flights that exhibit your ability to handle variations in airspeed and land safely into the wind. When you have completed all the beginner tasks, you will receive a P-1 rating. This rating permits you to fly under the direct supervision of a certified instructor in winds of 12 MPH or less. Your flights paths must be straight and relatively free of obstructions.
Summary: Attend a basic ground school and pass a written exam. Demonstrate basic skills and knowledge of the canopy. Launch, fly, and land independently under the direct supervision of a certified instructor. Receive a P-1 rating.