Article: The Salmon Ladder has 2 main components—2 wooden posts and a series of angled rungs which you’ll use to catch and stabilize the bar. For this project, a pair of sturdy 12’-15’ (3.7-4.6 m) 4x4 posts will serve as the vertical supports, with a 2x6 across the top to connect the frame. The rungs themselves will be fashioned from a 2x4 sawed to the appropriate size and shape.  Depending on the spacing between the rungs, two 8 foot (2.4 m) (2.4 m) long 2x4's may be needed instead of one 12 foot (3.7 m) 2x4. Use only high-quality pressure-treated lumber. Since it’s made to withstand heavier loads, you can be sure that it will hold up under hours and hours of intense training. In addition to the raw lumber, you’ll also need a hammer or electric drill, 3” (7.6 cm) nails or heavy-duty wood screws, a handsaw, a bag of quickset concrete, and a tape measure. Use a post hole digger to clear the soil by hand quickly and ensure that the holes are uniform. Each hole should be approximately 4 feet (1.2 m) deep and 1 foot (0.30 m) across. Space them roughly 42” (1 m) apart in order to leave a comfortable amount of distance to maneuver between the posts.  A flat, stable patch of ground with plenty of room to move around will make the best site for your Salmon Ladder. It's also a good idea to position your Salmon Ladder where you can attach other supports. This could mean resting it against a tree or adding additional supports at the top. The length of the 4x4 posts will correspond to the total height of the obstacle. For a standard 11’-12’ (3.4-3.7 m) ladder, you’ll need to have your posts cut to 15’-17’ (4.6-5 m). Slide the end of the first post into one of the openings you just made and stand it upright carefully. Then, do the same with the second post. Once you've set the supports, double check that they're straight, with corners and faces perfectly aligned.  Recruit one or -- even better -- a few assistants to help you position and hold the heavy 4x4s. Use a level to make sure the posts are sitting evenly, and stretch a separate board across the two posts to test whether it sits flush. If you live in an area that receives a lot of precipitation, consider adding about 3” (7.6 cm) of gravel, sand, or aggregate to the holes before setting the posts to promote drainage. Keeping the wood dry will prevent it from rotting or splitting over time. While a helper holds each post steady, shake half a bag of quickset concrete into each hole. Mix it to a consistency similar to cake batter by adding water gradually. Make sure the concrete is evenly distributed around the supports at the bottom of the holes. It should begin to set within 15-20 minutes, depending on the weather.  Consider setting the posts on one day, then returning to complete construction the next to give the concrete plenty of time to dry. Avoid putting any weight on the Salmon Ladder until the concrete has fully hardened. You can find a blueprint for a Salmon Ladder here: http://www.ninjawarriorblueprints.com/salmon-ladder-plans/.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Gather your materials. Dig holes to set the support beams. Insert the posts into the holes. Pour concrete to stabilize the posts.

Problem: Article: Using your child’s regular shampoo, wash their hair over the sink or bathtub. Make sure to scrub the scalp well, and wash the entire length of the hair. Dry their hair until it is damp, not completely dry. If your child already washed their hair that day, spray their hair with water rather than shampooing it again. The chair should be high enough that you don’t need to bend over constantly as you move around your child. Keeping their head straight ensures you cut the hair evenly. It can helpful to play a movie in front of your child; they’ll be less likely to look around and squirm. Hair can be very itchy, and your child might start squirming if hair gets under their clothes. By catching it in a towel, it makes cleanup much simpler. If hair still gets on their clothes, use a blow dryer to blow off as much as you can.
Summary: Wash the child’s hair thoroughly. Sit your child in a high chair with their head straight. Wrap a towel around their shoulders.

You can purchase capos at music stores or online. There are three conventional capos that you can get for the first four frets of the banjo. These include the elastic, clamp, and screw capos. Compare the three different kinds of capos online and choose one that meets your needs and fits in your budget.  Elastic capos are often the cheapest but least exact kind of capo. Clamp capos use a spring to create tension. Screw capos allow you to adjust the tension of the capo and are the most popular for banjos. A Shubb sliding capo is made specifically for banjos and can slide up and down the neck past the fourth fret. Shubb capos should be professionally installed by a luthier or banjo professional because they have to be screwed into the neck of the banjo. Railroad spikes are placed in holes that are punched into the frets under the fifth string and can be used as a capo for your fifth string. Take your banjo to a luthier or professional that works on musical string instruments so they can install it for you. Typically railroad spikes are installed between the seventh and tenth frets.
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One-sentence summary --
Get a traditional capo for the first four frets. Use a sliding capo for the fifth string. Get railroad spikes installed past the fourth fret.