Write an article based on this "Grow from cuttings it you want your field to have a uniform look. Prepare your soil. Alter the pH of the soil if necessary. Try planting a ‘green manure’ crop the previous year. Decide how wide the rows need to be. Dig your holes. Plant the young plants and water well. Create an irrigation system. Continue to care for your field of flowers."
If you’re looking to create a uniform row of plants, try growing your plants from cuttings. This essentially means you are growing clones of a parent plant. Growing from seed or bulb may mean your plants have more variety, which may not be the look you want to achieve. Remove any remnants of the previous year’s crop and any fallen branches, weeds, and stones. Till the ground to break up the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches (15.2 cm). Try to improve the soil by adding well-rotted manure. Add this manure well before you plan to plant your field. For example, sweet peas will grow better if manure is dug into the beds at least a month ahead of planting time. If you need to alter the soil pH, you should also plan to do this well before you plan to plant your field. For example, if you are growing lavender (which favors an alkaline soil) you might try to add lime to acid soils to raise the pH. A ‘green manure’ crop is a fast-growing crop that protects the soil’s nutrients and the soil structure while the field is bare. The green manure is then tilled back into the soil so the nutrients are returned and the soil is ready for the next crop (your flowers). Green manures include alfalfa, buckwheat and clover. This depends on which variety you are growing and what size the plants achieve, as well as how much space you need between rows in order to tend them. Start planning your rows by hammering a stake into the ground at both ends of the first row. Tie a piece of string between the stakes and use this to guide your planting. Lavender plants need at least 30 inches (76.2 cm) between them, plus room for you to walk between the rows to prune and harvest (you should create rows that are at least the width of your shoulders). Dig holes for your plants that are as deep as the plant container and twice as wide. Add a handful of slow release fertilizer, such as bonemeal, to the hole and mix the fertilizer in. Don’t let the young plant’s roots touch the fertilizer directly. You may find it helpful to carry a backpack watering device to help cover the large area of the field. You can then lay down weed proof matting, but this is not essential. Water the young plants until they are established. Plants will usually become established within a few weeks. You may want to lay an irrigation system to efficiently water your plants using minimal water. This is especially recommended for lavender, as watering directly to the base of the plant via an irrigation pipe laid on the ground helps avoid ‘splitting’, a problem that can occur from overhead watering. Established plants such as lavender shouldn’t need watering unless it is exceptionally hot, dry or windy.  Check the pruning advice for your particular variety. Make sure you go out into your field regularly to inspect for problems such as bug attacks or disease.