You can buy comic-printed fabric from the fabric store. You can also buy a comic-printed shirt or skirt, and use that instead; make sure that the fabric is cotton and non-stretch. Fabric shoes would work best for this, because the glue will stick better. If your shoes are made out of patent leather, or a similar material, lightly buff them with fine-grit sandpaper or an emery board; this will give the glue something to grab on to. If there are any embellishments on your shoes, be sure to cut them off; you can always glue them back on later. The easiest way to do this would be to lay the fabric on top of the shoe, and then to cut around it. This method is just for one shoe. You'll need to repeat it for your other shoe. It is easiest to work on one shoe at a time. Keep the fabric on top of the shoe and position your scissors just above the heel seam. Cut straight down the fabric until you are ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) away from the top of the opening (closest to the toe). You can also use a decoupage glue, such as Mod Podge, but make sure that it is waterproof. Make sure that the fabric is stretched over the surface of the shoe, and that there aren't any puckers or wrinkles. Try your best to follow the curves of the heels. Don't worry about the top opening just yet. When you get close to the heel of the shoe, stop. You can leave the heels covered or uncovered. If you plan on covering them, skip over them for now; you will need to use a separate piece of fabric for that. Pat some glue onto the heel of your shoe first, then press the fabric down onto the glue, making sure to pull it nice and taut. You are including this extra fabric so that you can fold it under itself and create a finished seam. Don't glue it down just yet, however. For a more secure finish, coat the underside of the fabric with glue first, then fold the raw edge under itself by ½ inch (1.27 centimeters). Brush on some glue under the fabric, then press it down onto the shoe. Go back to where you cut the slit, and cut the opening out until it is ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) away from the edge of the shoe. Next, cut slits into the fabric. Make the slits further apart along the straight edges of the shoe, and closer together in the curved areas (such as the toe). This will help the fabric lay smoother inside your shoe, and prevent wrinkling and buckling, which might make your shoes uncomfortable to wear. If your heels are peep-toes, use a similar technique: trim the fabric down to ½ inch (1.27 centimeters), then cut slits into it. Many crafters find that the inside of shoes doesn't take glue well for some reason. To ensure that the fabric stays down, brush glue onto the shoe and the fabric, then press the fabric down. If the fabric still won't stay down, secure it with metal clips until the glue dries. If your shoes are peep-toes, use a similar technique: glue the fabric down, then secure it with clips until it dries. The easiest way to do this would be to run a craft blade down the seam between your shoe and the sole. This may even tuck the fabric into the seam. If you have a lot of excess fabric, you can trim it away with a pair of scissors first. Run some fabric glue along the seam where the body of your shoe joins the sole. Next, run something blunt along the seam to tuck the raw edges in. You can use your fingernail, a butter knife, a skewer, or even a knitting needle to do this. Start by measuring the height and circumference of your heel. Next, add 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) to the height, and 1½ inches (3.81 centimeters) to the length. Cut the fabric out, then do the following:  Fold the bottom and one of the side edges down by ½ inch (1.27 centimeters). Cover the heel with glue. Wrap the fabric around it, starting with the raw edge and finishing with the folded edge. Keep the seam on the inside of the heel. Run a craft blade along the top seam of your heel to cut away any excess fabric. This should also tuck the raw top edges into the seam. This may not be necessary if you used fabric glue, but it would be a good idea if you used Mod Podge. If your fabric has any glue "stains" on it, then coating it with Mod Podge or sealer would help hide them. Whatever you decide to use, make sure that it is waterproof. It might be an even better idea to add 2 to 3 coats of Mod Podge or sealer. Make sure that you let each coat dry before applying the next. Even though the glues and sealers you used are waterproof, it would be best to avoid getting these shoes wet. If you get them wet, the fabric may start to bubble and warp.

Summary: Get some comic-printed fabric. Choose a pair of plain high heels. Cut a piece of fabric big enough to cover one shoe. Cut a slit down the middle of the fabric for the opening. Use a foam brush to coat the toe area with a thick layer of fabric glue. Smooth the fabric down onto the glue. Cover the sides of the shoe with more glue, and smooth the fabric down into the glue. Trim one side of the fabric down until it goes ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) past the back seam, and glue it down. Trim the other side of the fabric until it goes 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) past the seam. Fold the raw edge under itself, then glue the fabric down. Shape the top opening. Glue the fabric inside your shoe. Trim the excess fabric away along the sole. Seal the fabric along the sole for extra security. Consider covering the heel area as well. Seal the fabric with Mod Podge, or another type of sealer, if desired. Let your shoes dry completely before you wear them.


Spread mortar in a small area where you will begin to work. Only work with a roughly 2'x3' area at a time. You do not want the mortar to have time to set before you can lay your tile. Using a notched trowel (different sizes may be needed, 3/8" is a good starting point), spread the mortar between sections that you marked with the chalk line.  If the mortar rises up between the tiles (to be flush or nearly flush with the tile surface), that means it's too thick or that the ridges need to be shorter. The mortar should be covering the entire tile, if you lift it up after placing it. If when you lift up the tiles you see only lines of mortar on the tile, then the mortar has dried out too much or the bed is too thin and the height of the ridges must be increased. If using tile sheets, use a trowel with smaller notches. This will keep the mortar from coming up through the gaps between the tiles. Lay your tiles onto the mortar, starting at the right corner you marked and following a straight line. Leave gaps of 1/8" where the edge of the tile meets up with the wall or floor. This is to allow room for expansion and movement, as the material naturally changes with its environment. This gap can be covered with grout, molding, or shoe tile. Place tile spaces between each tile as you go, or simply use your eyes to estimate if using tile sheets. These spacers are usually places at the corners of each tile and look like the cross shape that is formed by four tiles being next to each other. Use a carpenter's level as you go to make sure that the tiles are level. Use a masonry wet saw to cut any tiles you need for the corners and edges, carefully measuring them to fit for your particular project. Don't forget to leave the 1/8" gap all around the edge. Remove the spaces once the mortar has set and you're ready to grout!
Summary: Spread your mortar. Lay your tiles. Insert the spacers as you go. Level the tiles as you go. Cut tiles for the edges. Remove your spacers before doing the grout.