Problem: Article: into the pool to create the bottom slab. Purchase plenty of shotcrete mix or gunite. Place it all in a mixing truck equipped with a big hose or dumping rail. Dump the concrete onto the rebar or spray it out with a hose attached to the truck. Use enough concrete to make the pool floor at least 6 in (15 cm) thick. To make pouring the concrete easier, begin spraying the walls as you lay concrete on the floor so you don’t have to walk back and forth across the wet mix as much. Put on some sturdy work boots you don’t mind getting wet, then step into the pool. Coat the walls to make a layer of concrete at least 6 in (15 cm) thick, Also, add concrete to the top lip of the pool marked off by plywood. Take care not to spray over any exposed pipe openings. Cap them and spray around them. Step down into the pool to access the concrete slabs. You will need a float, which is like a big broom for concrete. Push the float over the floor to level it, then do the same for the walls. You can also use a big metal straightedge to smooth out difficult spots along walls and corners. The straightedge is also helpful for smoothing out steps into a block shape. For a long-lasting pool, let the concrete cure before continuing to work on it. Purchase a big plastic sheet from a hardware store. Make sure it covers the entire pool. Flatten it against the concrete, then pin it down with stakes, bricks, and other heavy objects.  If you don’t have a good plastic cover, spray the concrete with water from a hose 3 or 4 times a day. Keep it saturated to prevent it from drying out. You can also place damp canvas or burlap over the concrete to protect it. Add water to the cover as needed to keep it moist. Glass, ceramic, and porcelain tiles are some of the most popular ways to finish a pool. Mix mortar, then spread it over the concrete with a trowel. After waiting at least 24 hours, spread grout over the mortar. Place the tiles on the grout, leaving a 1⁄8 in (0.32 cm) gap between each one.  Leave a 6 in (15 cm) gap between the lip of the pool and the top row of tiles. Make sure the mortar and grout resist chlorine and other chemicals in the water. Tile lasts up to 10 years on average and resist stains better than other finishes, though it tends to be a little more expensive. Some other finishes to try include plaster, stone, or a water-resistant epoxy paint. Alternative finishes last 5 to 8 years on average. Coping is visible and provides walking room around the pool’s edge. Tile is a common option, but you can also get concrete, marble, or stone. Each style adds a different aesthetic to your pool, but they all waterproof the exposed concrete. Wait at least 1 to 2 days for the tile and coping to cure before adding water to the pool. Install the coping with mortar and grout like you did when lining the pool’s interior. Cover the 6 in (15 cm) gap you left inside the pool, then arrange another row of coping material around the pool’s rim. You now have a concrete pool in your yard. All you need to do to make it functional is add the water. Run garden hoses from nearby water spigots to begin. Doing this takes a long time, so find alternative ways to bring in more water. Try renting a water truck to dump large amounts of water into the pool.  If you can’t get a truck to the pool, continue using a hose. It may take all day, but with a little patience, you will soon have a functional pool. Watch the pool for leaks and other issues. Empty the pool before attempting a fix.
Summary: Pour concrete Spray the walls to coat them with concrete. Smooth the concrete out with a concrete float. Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet for at least 5 days. Coat the pool basin with tile to waterproof it. Install coping around the lip of the pool. Fill the pool with water.

Problem: Article: Place your dominant foot forward slightly. Bend your knees, so that you could move your feet if you needed to, and hold your hands up near the top of your chest. If you’re using a mirror or a shadow, face it. All of the basic punches will start from this position. Practice jumping forward and backwards, then switching your weight from your right foot to your left foot. You shouldn’t be moving more than 2 feet (0.61 m) away from your original position--the point is to develop agility, not to jump far. All boxing footwork is based on these maneuvers. A jab is a swift punch aimed straight at your shadow's head. In boxing, it is used to stun, rather than deliver a knockout. You can do this with either hand, but it’s best to practice both right and left jabs. Do a combination of a left jab and a right jab, while keeping your body tight and steady. This is a punch with the right or left arm that is delivered with strong power from your chest. This is a knockout punch to your shadow's head, so you can put more strength behind it than you would for a jab. A left or right hook should start with your fist near your chin. A right hook should go slightly to the right, before turning back in a leftward motion on your shadow's chin. The left hook should go in the opposite direction. The uppercut is a little more complicated. You bend your knees enough to drop down about 6 inches (15.2 cm), and then send a swift and strong punch upwards toward the shadow’s chin. You should use your dominant hand only for this punch. Bobbing refers to bending your knees to escape from a punch. To weave, move your body towards the left or the right, with your feet in one place. This would make your shadow's punches slip past you.
Summary: Stand with your feet shoulder width apart. Practice basic footwork. Do a right and left jab. Try a straight punch. Use a left and right hook. Do an uppercut. Bob and weave to avoid getting hit.

Problem: Article: If you encounter difficult stains that do not come off with a commercial cleaner, paint thinner applied with steel wool can help. Make sure to follow package directions, especially any safety instructions, before applying paint thinner. Then, work the paint thinner into the frames using a steel wool sponge until the stains come off.  Be gentle when using steel wool to avoid scratching the frames. Some steel wool pads have soap built in that can help you clean. After cleaning your frames, they may look a little dull. Apply water using fine steel wool, buffing the surface of the frames until they shine. Outdoor frames may become dull due to a process called anodizing. This looks similar to rust and cannot be polished off. Aluminum frames that appear rusty should be treated by a professional cleaner. Never apply any product, even household products, to the full window frame without testing them first. Before applying a product to your window frame, apply it to a small portion of the frame that's mostly out of sight. Make sure the cleaner does not cause a negative reaction, such as discoloration, before applying it to the rest of the window frames.
Summary:
Use steel wool and paint thinner for tough stains. Polish your frames when you're done. Test your product on a small part of the window frame first.