INPUT ARTICLE: Article: You may have been called something other than your real name throughout childhood, and this nickname might be useful as a stage name. For example, Richard Melville Hall was nicknamed Moby by his parents, and he uses this as his stage name. Go with a singular name that is just your middle name, such as the rapper Drake, whose real name is Aubrey Drake Graham. Similarly, Angelina Jolie Voight dropped her last name, moving her middle name to the surname position. Use your great-grandmother’s first name or your great-uncle’s middle name. This can help you retain a connection to your family with your stage name. Some performers use just their last name, dropping their first name because it is hard to pronounce or they’ve always disliked their name. Liberace, for example, dropped his first name, Wladziu, and just went by one name.  Some performers may have started their careers with their full names – or with a stage first and last name. Reinventing your career may involve reinventing your name, but you might still want to hang onto some of the reputation or recognition that you already have. Drop your last name from your stage name and go with just a single name. Alternately, add your last name. If you’ve been using a single name, consider adding a last name to reinvent yourself. You might also change or alter your last name. Some performers add last names (with or without a hyphen), such as Courtney Cox adding Arquette to her last name when she got married (she dropped Arquette when the marriage ended). If you have performers in your family, you may want to link your stage name with their stage names. These can help you gain a reputation and recognition among fans and employers. For example, Carlos Irwin Estévez became Charlie Sheen in order to match his last name to his actor father Martin Sheen, whose real name is Ramón Antonio Gerardo Estévez. Another son, Emilio, kept the family last name.

SUMMARY: Use a childhood nickname. Use your middle name. Use your family tree as inspiration. Use your last name. Choose the same last name as your parent’s stage last name.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Determine where your property line is before you start so that you don't accidentally go over. The best advice is to hire a Registered Land Surveyor in your home state to mark the property line for you before you begin construction. Your city or town usually does not keep very detailed records of your property's boundary information. GIS (geographic information system) maps and Assessors maps are highly inaccurate when it comes to property boundaries. You can search for Property\Survey Pins on your property. These are also located on the corners of a lot. Just because an old fence or other “assumed” property boundary was\is in place that does not always mean that it is correct. Choose a fence height before getting too far into the project. Six foot is normal for a privacy fence, a livestock fence four feet high is usually sufficient, and picket fences are often three feet high. Fence height is important in the early stages, as it determines things like post hole depth. Most cities have a height ordinance, so be sure to check this before you choose your fence height. Place stakes at the corners roughly where you wish your fence to go. Tie a string around the stakes and run the string between stakes. Use a square or square-level to make sure that the corners" where our stakes are placed are squared (the two sides form a 90° angle).   You can also square the corners by measuring the strings. Measure 3' on one side and 4' on the other. If the distance between the two marks (diagonally) is equal to 5', then the corner is square. Measure out lengths of 8' or less along the strings once you've square your corners and stake those locations to indicate the location for your support posts.  You generally want to take the total distance and divide it by 8 but if you have a length of fence that is not divisible by 8, you'll need to break it down into smaller sections. For example, a 24' fence would need 2 middle posts to create the three 8' sections, but a 25' fence would need 3 middle posts at 6.25' for each section in order to look even and be structurally sound. To find the length and number for odd fence lengths, go up to the next number of posts and then divide the total length of the fence by the number of resulting sections. Use a post-hole digger to dig holes at the locations you staked. The posts will need to be buried at least 33% as deep as they are tall (example: an 8' high fence needs a hole 2.5' deep), so your hole will need to be at least that depth plus a few extra inches.  The hole should be wide enough that there is room around the post when you put it in. Because soil conditions vary, and the height of the fence, the type of fencing, and other factors must be considered in determining how deep the post should be, you will have to calculate the hole depth for yourself. Place 3-4" of gravel at the bottom of the hole. Place the post in the hole and get it into alignment. Check to make sure that the corners are still square, use a post leveler to make sure it is straight, and make sure it is sitting at the correct height. Carefully holding your post in place, pour in instant concrete until the hole is 2/3 full. Add water to the top and use a stirring stick to mix the cement. Prop the post into place (stabilize using temporary nailed boards if necessary) and allow the concrete to set following the manufacturer's instructions. Fill any remainder of the hole with dirt once the concrete has set. Pull a builder's line from one end post to the other, at an equal height above the ground, preferably at the top of the post (if your posts were placed correctly). This will help you keep the height of the fence the same along the way. Cut 2x4 rails (or horizontal support boards) to the appropriate length to reach between the centers of the posts. If you can, use a single rail for the entire length of the fence section. Rails should be no more than 24" apart, so most fences will have 2-3 rails. Attach the rails using decking screws. With your support boards in place, you can attach your pickets (vertical boards, also called privacy boards). There are many different styles and ways of doing this, depending on how you want your fence to look. The most basic is a board on board fence, where the fence boards are nailed (using a nail gun, nailed at the support boards) with the distance of less than one board between them. Place the first board up and then use a level to “plumb” (vertical level) the board. Then, nail or screw the board in place. Use a spacer and then place the next board. Use the level periodically to check that it is “plumb.”   These boards are usually 1X6 rough sawn lumber but you can buy other pre-cut fencing boards as well. If nailing the boards by hand, use 8d spiral shank galvanized nails. Once you're done, you will want to treat the boards to increase the longevity of your fence. You can paint your fence, stain it, or simply apply a weather-proofing finish to keep your fence looking great for years to come. Enjoy! This will usually either contain silicone solids, or linseed oil.  If you plan on painting a finish paint, stick with an oil-based sealer, and use an oil-based polyurethane paint or exterior enamel for the finish paint.

SUMMARY:
Find your property line. Decide on the height. Stake the corner locations. Square the corners. Stake the middle posts. Dig the holes. Place your posts. Pour the concrete footing. Fill with dirt. Add a builder's or mason's line. Add on your support boards. Add your privacy boards. Treat the boards.