In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: The water doesn't have to be ice-cold, but it should be the coldest temperature that you can withstand. Warm or hot water will cause the dye to fade faster, causing all of your hard work to literally go down the drain. Look for labels such as "for dyed hair" or "for color-treated hair." If you can't find such products, choose a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner. Most shampoos and conditioners will say on the label if they are sulfate-free, but double-check the ingredients list.  Sulfates are harsh cleaning agents added to many shampoos that can strip color from your hair. Every 2 to 3 washes, consider using a color-depositing conditioner instead of your usual one. This will help revitalize your color. Even if you use cold water, your hair color will still fade a little each time that you wash your hair. Instead, wash your hair no more than 2 or 3 times a week. You can also consider co-washing on the days that you don't wash your hair.  If your hair tends to get greasy, consider using some dry shampoo. Co-washing is where you wash your hair using just conditioner. This includes hair dryers, flat irons, and curling irons. Let your hair air-dry whenever possible, and try to find heat-free ways to straighten or curl your hair. Better yet, learn to embrace your natural hair texture! Heat not only damages your hair, but also causes hair dye to fade faster. If you must use a hair dryer, flat iron, or a curling iron, apply a good heat protectant first. Sunlight causes hair color to fade, especially red hair. Always wear a hat, scarf, or hood whenever you step out into the sun. More importantly, never let your hair get chlorine on it. If you want to go swimming, put all of your hair under a swim cap.  If you don't like to wear things on your head, apply a UV protectant spray instead. It's like sunscreen, but for hair. Dyed hair is fragile, so chlorinated water will damage it further. It can also change your hair color.
Summary: Use cool water when washing and rinsing your hair. Use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner. Wash your hair no more than 2 or 3 times per week. Limit the heat styling and use a heat protectant when you do heat style. Protect your hair from sunlight and chlorine.

Masonry chisels come in many shapes, including bolster, pitcher, and sculpting chisels. Pick one that is the right width and shape for your job, and is made to chisel the material you are shaping.  A bolster chisel is beveled on one-side of the blade and is used to break off large pieces or sections. A pitcher chisel is beveled on both sides of the blade and is used to cut straight lines. Sculpting or engraving stone requires a wide variety of specialized tools and chisels. Making a line where you want to break the stone or brick will help you keep on track as you chisel. You will make scoring marks along this line before trying to break the brick or stone in half. However, chiseling into stone and brick is not always exact, so be prepared to work with pieces that don’t break right on the line. You want to hold the chisel so that it is at 90 degrees and will go straight into the brick or stone. If you hold it at an angle, the cut will go off at an angle as well. It can take some practice to be able to hold the chisel perfectly upright while hammering it. Try making some practice cuts before chiseling into pieces that need to be cut correctly. Gently tap the end of the chisel with a hammer, mallet, or sledgehammer along the line you want to cut away. After you score one part of the line, move the chisel down the line and continue scoring the entire length.  The score line doesn't need to be very deep. You are just aiming to make the line weaker than the surrounding material, so that the stone naturally wants to break there. The goal here is to make a line that the stone or brick will break cleanly along. If you don’t make a score line, a piece of brick or stone wider than your chisel can break jaggedly. Strike the handle of the chisel sharply with your hammer, mallet, or sledgehammer. Use as much force as you can, so that the chisel is driven down into the stone or brick.  Repeat your strikes all along the score line on either side of the first strike until the break occurs.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary -- Pick the right masonry chisel to score, trim, or shape brick or stone. Mark the stone clearly with paver's chalk or a dark pencil. Set the masonry chisel perpendicular to the surface you are chiseling. Make a score line along the brick or stone. Make a hard strike in the middle of your score line.

Problem: Article: Squeeze the bottom of the pot your lavender plant is in. This helps loosen the lavender and its dirt ball from the smaller pot. Tilt the lavender sideways and pull gently on the plant’s base. With the loosening of the previous step, the lavender plant should ease out of its old pot.  The dirt should be solid enough that it feels like it will come out in one chunk if handled gently. Handle your pot-less lavender gently to avoid breaking the dirt and damaging the roots as well as the foliage above the dirt. Now you’re ready to pot your lavender plant in the new pot! Nestle it into the dirt that is already in the pot for security. The base of the plant should sit 3-inches below the rim of the pot. Gently break the surface of the lavender dirt ball with your fingers to release some of the roots.  Root binding happens when a plant has been in a small pot too long and the roots rival the dirt for space. This makes the dirt hard and unless the dirt and roots are loosened, the roots will not expand in their new pot and the plant will soon die.  Most potted plants won’t be root bound, but it’s a good idea to loosen up the roots and dirt a little to ensure the roots get a healthy start. Fill it only up to the top of the dirt ball around the lavender plant’s roots. Don’t pack the soil around the Lavender plant. The soil needs to stay loose for effective drainage. Sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil and then scratch the fertilizer into the soil with a fork.  Timed-release fertilizer can be found at any gardening or farm store and will release fertilizer as the plant is watered. An example of a timed-release pellet fertilizer is alfalfa pellets. They are organic and contain Triacontanol, which is a growth stimulant.  Some soils come with fertilizers like alfalfa pellets already mixed in, so you may not need to do this. Turkey grits or white landscaping pebbles work best for mulching lavenders. Lay the mulch on the soil in a 2-inch thick layer up to the base of the plant.  This mulch is great for preventing rot in the roots and stems of the plants. The white color of turkey grits and white landscaping pebbles will reflect sunlight back to the plant which will stimulate growth. The mulch will also encourage air circulation and quick drainage. These materials are inexpensive and can be found at farm and pet stores and some garden stores.
Summary:
Remove the Lavender plant from its current pot. Place the lavender plant in the center of the pot. Fill the rest of the pot with your potting mix. Spread a half cup timed-release fertilizer over your potting soil. Mulch your lavender plant.