You need a black and white image because the black will block out the light allowing your design to show up on your silk screen. This printing method can only print black images onto the shirt. If you have a color image in mind, convert it into black and white using Microsoft Word, Photoshop, or another photo editing application. You can purchase acetate paper from specialized screen printing supply stores, but clear transparency sheets from office supply stores work fine. Print the image onto the transparency sheet.   Low-quality printers may not make the image completely opaque, which can lead to a messy image on the shirt. If necessary, take the transparencies to a copy store instead. Some transparency sheets will shrink or warp when they go through the printer. Buy a small pack to start with, so you can switch to a different brand if the first attempt doesn't work out. These materials are available online or at large craft stores, often as part of a single screen printing kit. Paint both sides of the screen with the photo emulsion, using a squeegee to spread it a thin, even layer across the whole surface.  Wear gloves while handling the photo emulsion. You also may want to lay a garbage bag down so that you don’t get any paint on your table or another surface. Cover an area slightly larger than your photo and spread the emulsion out evenly. You shouldn’t be able to see through the screen. Leave the screen in a dark, cool area. Allow several hours for the photo emulsion to dry. Optionally, point a fan over the screen to speed up the drying process. The photo emulsion allows you to "burn" an image onto your screen when exposed to light. Clear a space for the screen under a bright source of light. Direct outdoor sunlight can work in the late morning or early afternoon.  Place a black garbage bag or cloth under your screen for best results. Alternatively use a 150-watt incandescent bulb, or a specialized "photo flood" bulb for a shorter exposure time.   You can purchase a specialized image burning machine for faster results. Set this up before you remove the screen from the dark room. Place these items on top of each other in the following order:  A large piece of cardboard or a large tray. A piece of black fabric, to reduce reflection. The prepared screen with the flat side of the screen face up. The transparency image, face down and attached to the screen with tape. A sheet of clear glass, Lucite, or Plexiglass. The timing of this step is tricky to get right on your first try since it varies based on the intensity of the light. Typically, the image is ready once the photo emulsion has changed to a dull grey-green. Check your photo emulsion product for instructions, since the timing can vary from 2 to 90 minutes depending on light intensity. Remove the glass and transparency and quickly bring the screen to the sink or a hose. Apply a powerful spray of cold water for several minutes to the recessed side of your screen. The ink on the transparency paper blocked light from reaching the photo emulsion, preventing it from hardening. Keep spraying until all of this wet emulsion has washed away, leaving an outline of your image.  If all of the emulsion washes away, try again with a longer light exposure. If none of the emulsion washes away after several minutes, use a photo emulsion remover on the screen and try again with a shorter exposure. The screen is now a reusable printing device. Transfer the image onto your shirt by:  Placing a piece of cardboard or another barrier inside the shirt, to prevent bleeding through to the other side. Add a small dollop of screen printing ink to the top of the screen, and pull it across with a squeegee to form a thin layer. Go over this several times to ensure an even layer. Lift the screen without moving it against the shirt. Most screen printing inks need to be ironed onto the shirt at a hot, dry setting. Others may only require an hour in sunlight, or a quick run through an ultraviolet drying machine.  Check your ink label for specific instructions before you heat set. Once the image has dried, your shirt is ready to wear!
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One-sentence summary -- Select a black and white image. Print the image onto a transparency. Paint a photo emulsion on a printing screen. Dry the screen in a dark location. Set up a light station. Prepare the screen and image. Expose the image at your light station. Wash the screen. Print onto your shirts. Heat set the shirt.

Q: It is often used in negative statements in which you use a negative term like “have not” or “has not.”  For example, you may say, “I haven’t completed my homework yet,” or, “I haven’t eaten breakfast yet.” You can also say, “She hasn’t watched the episode yet,” or, “He hasn’t phoned me back yet.” This approach is often used in more formal discussions or conversations. “Yet” is often placed after “have,” “are,” or “has.”  For example you may say, “We have yet to determine if she is on board,” or, “Our guests are yet to arrive.” You may also say, “The price has yet to be announced.” “Yet” is used in a sentence if you want to let others know that you are still in a situation and it is going to continue in the near future. You can use “yet” in positive statements in the present to let others know that a situation or event in the present is not finished yet.  For example, you may say, “I have a lot more work yet,” to let others know your work is not finished. You may say, “There is a lot more time yet,” to tell others that there is still time in the present to complete a task or activity.
A: Put “yet” at the end of a sentence to describe something that hasn't happened. Use “yet” in the middle of the sentence to discuss something unknown or unclear. Place “yet” in a sentence to show a situation or event is ongoing.

Article: Though it won't work for deadbolts, it will work for spring locks (the kind that's slanted and a part of a handle). Grab one that's cheap and you don't care about -- if it breaks, no harm, no foul. A bendy, laminated card works best.  Force it between the lock and the frame, flush against the frame. Bend it back, forcing the lock back into the door, opening it. If there's no room between the lock and the frame, you can force it between the door and the frame above the lock, then swipe quickly downward while angling the card toward the frame. This is where a thicker, sturdier card may come in handy.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Use a credit card on a spring lock.