Q: With 10 acres (40,469 sq m) of forested land, you can become an official tree farmer with the ATFS. Then you can sell off parts of your woodlands in a sustainable way, including replanting trees as needed to keep the harvest coming over the years. While tree farms can be profitable, you likely need cash in the interim while your trees are growing. A nursery is a good option because you can start with seeds or seedlings, and in 2-5 years, you can sell the young trees to garden stores or the public. Choose trees that are native to your area and popular. Look around a local garden store to see what they're selling. Check with local nurseries to see what grows best in your area, as those trees will do better. Opt for a popular variety for the best chance of being commercially successful.  For instance, try Douglas fir, blue spruce, or white spruce. You can also grow more than one variety. Also, look for a variety that states it has "late-breaking buds." That means the buds will break later in the spring. If they break too early, they could be hit by frost, halting growth that year.  You can buy plugs or bare root trees. Bare root trees are grown in fields, and the soil is removed before they come to you. Plugs are container-grown, and they arrive with soil. Plugs will last longer before you need to plant them, and you can plant them later in the year if you need to. These are low-maintenance trees which are less expensive to plant than some other types of trees. They grow relatively quickly, and you can sell them for lumber once they reach maturity.  This tree is native to 15 southeastern states in the U.S., meaning it grows well without much effort.  It grows at a rate of 2 feet (0.61 m) per year and usually reaches heights of 60 to 90 feet (18 to 27 m), though it can get as tall as 110 feet (34 m). for lumber. These are native to the area, so they do well. Though you can grow these for Christmas trees, they also do well as a lumber crop; you'd have to be willing to wait 30-50 years for them to mature, though. These trees grow at a rate of 1 to 2 feet (0.30 to 0.61 m) a year, and they usually reach 40 to 70 feet (12 to 21 m).
A: Use your existing woodlands for immediate cash. Opt for a nursery if you need cash faster. Pick a hardy tree native to your area for a Christmas tree farm. Try loblolly pines in the southern part of the United States for lumber. Grow Douglas fir trees in the northern part of the U.S.

Q: A duster bulb will enable you to apply a thin layer of boric acid. Squeeze the bulb to puff a small layer of powder along the floor and walls in your kitchen and bathroom. The layer should be barely visible to your eye. Do not apply too much boric acid. If you do, then the roaches will be able to detect it and they will avoid the area.  Do not use a spoon to apply the boric acid. You can purchase the acid from your local hardware store. Do not apply the acid on countertops, especially where food is prepared. Drill a hole in your drywall big enough to fit the tip of the duster bulb. Place the tip of the duster bulb into the hole. Squeeze the bulb to dispense the boric acid in between your walls. Since roaches tend to live in between walls, this is an effective way to kill them. But do not use it in combination with sticky traps. The traps will prevent the roaches from going back home, which helps spread the acid to other roaches.
A: Use a duster bulb to apply the acid. Administer boric acid in between your walls. Use it in combination with gel bait and bait stations.

Q: Many national and local parks have areas specifically designated for campers. You’ll be able to drive your car onto the grounds and unload your belongings, and you’ll also be able to enjoy a lot of other amenities, such as restrooms, showers, picnic tables, fire pits, playgrounds, and others, depending on the location.  At a campsite, you’ll be in close proximity to other people. It’s a cool way to make new friends, have a fun experience, and enjoy being outdoors. Almost all campsites require a reservation and a small registration fee. to a campground to have a little bit more privacy. Many parks will have maps showing popular places to pitch a tent if you want to get out into the woods before making camp. If you choose this option, start looking for a site about halfway through your day. Keep in mind that you’ll be carrying all your gear with you, so you’ll need a lightweight tent and a sturdy backpack. Every campground will have different rules, ranging from restrictions on alcohol or pets to specifications for how you store food and dispose of trash. Some sites won’t allow you to set up camp until a certain time and will ask you to leave by a specific hour on your checkout date. Checking these rules ahead of time will help you prepare and have a fun trip. Keep in mind that these rules are made to help keep you and the other campers safe. You may need to put down a deposit weeks or months in advance, especially if you’re hoping to camp during the summer or over a holiday weekend. Once you know where you’d like to camp, pick a date, firm up how many people will be joining you, and book your spot! Almost all sites have a website through which you can make your booking. If you have unanswered questions, make a phone call before reserving your spot.
A: Pick an official campsite if you want certain amenities, like a bathroom. Hike Look online to see what kinds of rules you’ll need to follow. Register and reserve your spot if your location requires it.

Q: Before you jump straight into distressing, run a sanding block or sheet of high-grit sandpaper over the entire piece. A thorough sanding will open up the pores in the wood and help the paint hold better. This translates to a longer-lasting finish that, ironically, will have no problem standing the test of time.  Sand with a gentle circular motion, starting in a central spot and gradually working your way outward. Fold the sandpaper over squared edges and slide the entire sheet back and forth using smooth strokes. A shade like white, eggshell or opal will work best. Don’t get too heavy-handed with the first coat—you just need to get the paint onto the piece, not achieve total coverage.  Work the base coat into corners, grooves and other hard-to-reach areas using the tip of your brush. Lighter colors will be more visible under additional coats of paint, enhancing the effect. Leave the painted piece in a cool, dry place as it dries. This will usually take 8-10 hours, but you might want to wait up to 24 hours to ensure that the paint has had ample time to set. Once it has fully cured, you can move onto the next phase of the project.  Avoid handling the painted wood while it dries. If you’d rather show off the natural wood grain than a separate layer of paint, feel free to skip straight to the distressing phase. Choose a bolder color for the topcoat that will stand in contrast to the lighter base coat underneath. This time, paint the entire piece. Use multiple coats to reach the desired depth and smoothness.  Change up the direction of your strokes to work the paint into tiny crevices and other textured areas. To underscore the vintage aesthetic, go with a topcoat in a faded-looking pastel shade, such as brick red, powder yellow or robin’s egg blue. Wet a rag or soft kitchen scrubber and wring out the excess water. Use the rag or scrubber to smudge the paint while it’s still slightly sticky to the touch. Doing so will expose the lighter paint underneath, which creates the illusion that the piece has been repainted over the years.  Work slowly and rub the paint with minimal pressure to avoid taking off too much paint at once. If you accidentally remove more paint than you intended, simply brush on a fresh coat and start over.  For a more exaggerated finish, you can also use high-grit sandpaper after the paint has dried.
A:
Sand the wooden surface lightly. Paint the piece in a light color. Allow the base coat to dry completely. Brush on a second coat of paint. Wipe the paint with a damp cloth.