Article: Cut the photo you’ve chosen into a circle 2” to 2.5” in diameter. Do the same for the sheet of cardstock, which will act as a backing to make the photo more durable. Cut out the photo and cardstock slowly and carefully, making sure the edges are clean and even and both pieces are the same size.  To make the circular photo more precise, trace the outline with a pencil or the rim of a drinking glass roughly the same size as the ornament. If you want, you can have the cardstock printed with a personalized caption or greeting, such as “Christmas 2016” or “Happy Holidays from the Smith Family.” This message will then be displayed on the opposite side of the ornament. Tear a strip of tape and stick it to the back side of the photo. The tape should be vertical, stretching from the top edge of the photo to the bottom. Stretch the tape before pressing it down to eliminate any bubbles or wrinkles. Snip off a few inches of fishing line and fold it in half so that it forms a thin loop. Stick the looped end to the tape on the back of the photo with the entire length lying flat. Then, take the circular piece of cardstock you cut and sandwich the fishing line between the cardstock and photo. You’ll now have a photo of the right size complete with backing and a way to lower the photo into the glass bulb.  Line up the edges of the photo and cardstock before pressing them together. Don’t use glue to attach the photo to the cardstock. It could wrinkle or bleed through the photo. Remove the small metal cap from the ornament bulb. Gently roll the photo and cardstock into a loose tube, picture side out. Be careful not to use too much pressure, or the photo could crease. Slide the rolled photo into the bulb with the fishing line coming out of the top. This will give you a way to pull the photo out if you make a mistake, and it will also act to fix the photo in place inside the ornament. Hold on tight to the fishing line as you drop the photo in. If you lose it, it could be a pain to get out. Find a slender, blunted tool that will fit inside the opening of the bulb. Reach one end in side and use it to smooth out the edges of the rolled picture. Rather than being perfectly flat, the photo will now have a slight curve to it, matching the rounded contours of the ornament.  The shaft of a pencil, ink pen or paint brush will work well for this purpose. Make sure whatever implement you use doesn’t scratch or damage the photo. Guide either end of the fishing line through the holes in the top of the cap. Slide the cap down the fishing line and press it firmly into place. Tie off the fishing line and use it to hang the ornament, or attach a separate piece of ribbon or twine to make it more visually interesting. It’s that easy!  Adjust the length of the fishing line inside the ornament so that the photo is suspended in just the right place. If you decide to use ribbon to hang the ornament, secure it by laying it across the top of the ornament before you tie down the ends of the fishing line.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Cut your photo and cardstock into circles. Apply a strip of double-side tape to the back of the photo. Press a loop of fishing line between both circular pieces. Roll and lower the photo into the bulb. Smooth out the photo. Replace the cap and hang the ornament.
Article: These photos will come in handy when you're putting new fabric on the chair. Make sure to take the photos in good light so that you can see the chair really well. Don't forget to turn the chair over to get photos from below, as well. Also, get up close and personal, too, making sure you get all the small details. If you're reupholstering a dining room chair, the base of the chair may come out, which makes the process easier. Typically, the base is screwed in, so turn the chair over and look for the screws holding it in place. Use a screwdriver or drill to unscrew them.  Some seats just drop into place, in which case you can just push them out. If they're glued in, you may need to carefully pry the seats out or use a solvent that dissolves the glue. If you're doing more than one dining room chair, make sure you mark which seat came from which chair, as the seats will fit more easily back into place on the original chair. If your chair has a loose cushion, pull it out. For other chairs, you may need to take off legs or the rockers at the bottom to get to the fabric. Rivets are mostly decoration these days, but they will still hold the fabric in place if you don't remove them. Use needle-nose pliers to pull them out. This can take a while if your chair has a lot of rivets. You can save these to put back on, buy new ones, or just leave them off when you reupholster the chair. Often, it's easiest to start at the base of the chair since that's where the final edges and seams are usually hidden. Take off the fabric that's covering the bottom first. You may need to take the tacks or staples out before the fabric will come off.  Use a staple remover or a hammer to take the tacks and staples out. You may need pliers to rip the fabric off. Try to take it off in one piece if possible. Start from the bottom and gently pull off the other pieces of fabric. If the chair has piping near the bottom, pull that off first, removing tacks and staples as needed so you can take the fabric off. Then, attempt to take the back off if yours has one. Move around the chair, taking off the different layers of fabric in large pieces. Use pliers to help you rip the pieces out, working along the seams of the chair as you do.  Some chairs have strips of metal tacking holding the fabric in place. You'll need to pull this out with pliers to get the fabric out. Save all the pieces of fabric, piping, and welting to use as patterns. Don't just throw these items away. They'll make it much easier to figure out the pieces you'll need to put your chair back together. You may even be able to reuse the piping and welting if it's not too damaged. Make sure to note where each piece comes from, such as bottom fabric, left side panel, left side arm, etc. That way, you know where each one belongs when you are trying to piece it back together. Note where the top and bottom or front and back side of each piece is, as well.  Also, indicate where the fabric was sewn to another piece or where it had piping along the edge. Note any special tucks, pleats, and folds so that you can repeat these when making up the new upholstery fabric. You can just use a permanent marker to write on the fabric since you'll be tossing it anyway. In most cases, you're going to want to replace the stuffing in the chair, as it will likely be worn down from the years. However, if it's still in good condition, you can save it to reuse. Keep it for now, though, so you can use it as a pattern.  Batting is a layer of fabric that sits between the outside fabric and the foam. It adds a layer of protection and it keeps the cushioning in place. On large armchairs, you may not be able to replace the batting and foam since it's shaped to the chair. In that case, leave it in place.  In some cases, you'll need to cut stuffing that has been glued into place. Use a knife with a long blade to slide neatly under it, such as a serrated knife or a snap-blade knife. Slide along and cut as carefully as you can.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Photograph the chair from all angles before pulling the fabric off. Remove the seat from dining room chairs. Take off rivets and other decorative items. Pull the fabric off the bottom. Remove the other pieces of fabric one-by-one. Mark each piece of fabric as you pull it off. Remove and examine the batting and cushioning.