Article: Storage grid cubes are easy-to-build metal storage options typically used for cheap shelving options. Look for cube grids that have openings between 1 1⁄2–2 1⁄2 in (3.8–6.4 cm). Make sure you have at least 12 grid pieces for your cage.  Storage grids can be purchased from your local superstore or online. Guinea pigs may get stuck in openings that are 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) or smaller and cause suffocation. Spread the grid pieces on a table or on the floor of the room where you plan on keeping your guinea pigs. Make sure the edges line up so that the cage doesn’t overlap. Measure the square footage of the base to confirm that it’s at least 7 1⁄2 sq ft (0.70 m2). This will form the base of your cage.  If you’re housing more than 2 guinea pigs, add 3 square feet (0.28 m2) for each additional animal. Most grid pieces are 12 in × 12 in (30 cm × 30 cm), so you only need 8 pieces to make your floor. You can leave the cage on the ground or put it on a table. Hold the edges of the base together so they’re touching. Combine the pieces by wrapping 1 zip tie around them in each corner. If the connection feels loose between the grid pieces, add another zip tie in the middle. Continue wrapping zip ties around each grid piece until your floor is finished. Zip ties can be purchased from your local hardware store. Hold a grid piece so it’s standing up against the outer edge of your floor. Use 2-3 more zip ties per grid piece to attach your walls to the floor. Tie the wall pieces together with more zip ties. Work with a partner to make the building process easier. When you pull the zip ties tight, there will be excess tails that stick out in the middle of your cage. Use a pair of scissors to cut any of the excess zip ties off. Go around your entire cage and remove them so your guinea pigs can’t chew on them. Cut off the zip tie tails as you put them on so you don’t have to do so many later.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Purchase a set of cube storage grids. Lay the grid on the floor to make a rectangle that’s at least 7 1⁄2 sq ft (0.70 m2). Secure the grid pieces together with 2-3 zip ties per side. Attach upright grid pieces along the sides of the base to make the walls. Cut the tails of the zip ties so your guinea pigs don’t chew on them.
Article: High-altitudes will impact the baking time, temperature, and even the ingredients. Most recipes were not designed for high-altitudes and will need adjustments. If you are at 3,000 feet (914.4 meters) or higher, you will need to adjust your recipe. Most ovens are warmer towards the bottom, and this is where you should consider placing your dishes to ensure that they get cooked properly.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Keep the altitude in mind. Place the food closer to the heat source.
Article: Place the cap over the crown of the chimney, keeping it fairly centered over the top flue.  Since this type of cap essentially "cages in" the chimney, you do not need to worry about a perfect fit. Just make sure that the entire chimney is covered. Note that the "crown" of the chimney is the concrete area around the flues. Use heavy pliers to bend the flange around the bottom of the chimney cap. Keep bending the flange until it conforms to the outer perimeter of the chimney crown.  The "flange" is simply the collar surrounding the bottom of the cap. You need this flange to lie snug against the sides of the crown. Take a dark marker and trace around the lower, bent edge of the flange, making the mark directly on the chimney crown. After tracing the flange, temporarily remove the cap and set it aside. Generously apply weather-proof caulk or a similar adhesive to the crown of the chimney, positioning the adhesive just to the inside of the line you traced.  You can slather this on with a trowel, but the easiest way to apply the adhesive is to use a caulking gun. Make sure that the bead you apply is 3/8 inch (0.95 cm) thick. Move the caulking gun gently from side to side, creating a wavy line roughly 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide. Leave 1/4 inch (0.64 cm) gap at each corner as you apply the adhesive. Place the cap back over the chimney and firmly press the flange down into the adhesive. Let dry.  If desired, you could smooth any adhesive that oozes out using a putty knife, but doing so is not necessary. Oftentimes, weather-proof adhesive is enough to hold this type of cap in place. Some caps should also be secured further with masonry screws, though. Check the manufacturer's instructions to determine if screws are necessary. If they aren't you can stop at this step. Place a screw through each hole in your flange. Use a power drill fitted with an appropriate drill bit to twist the screws roughly halfway in place.  Work carefully. You will be drilling directly into the chimney crown, and if you are too sloppy or hasty, you could damage the masonry. Use a 3/16 inch (0.5 cm) masonry bit. The masonry screws need to be 1/4 inch (0.64 cm) in diameter and 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 inch (3.8 to 4.4 cm) long. You need at least one screw per side. Aside from that, the screws should be spaced about 12 inches (30.5 cm) apart. Go back around the flange and finish drilling the screws in place. The head of each screw should lie flat against the side of the flange. You should still work carefully to prevent any accidental damage to the masonry as you drill the screws in.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Position the cap. Bend the flange. Trace the perimeter. Apply adhesive. Press the cap into the adhesive. Make pilot holes in the chimney. Tighten the screws.