Summarize the following:
Use your stud finder to locate the wall studs. Mark their locations with a pencil. Scan the wall to check for load-bearing framework, pipes, or electrical wires. If you locate an obvious obstruction, consult a professional before cutting or drilling into your wall.  If you do find wires, usually it is pretty easy to move or reroute them, just make sure you turn the breaker off before touching them. If you have the blueprints to your house, check to see if they include any information about what’s behind your wall. If you do identify a large vent, pipe, or load-bearing framework, your best solution will be to install a surface-mounted cabinet. Hold the cabinet in its intended position and use a level to make sure it’s straight. Use a pencil to trace its complete outline. When you’re finished tracing, set the cabinet aside in a safe place. Most wall framing sets studs at a distance of 16 inches (about 41 cm). However, many medicine cabinets are 18 inches (about 46 cm). If your cabinet is larger than the stud distance, you’ll have to notch, or cut away, part of the studs when you create the recess and supporting frame for your cabinet. If you purchase a cabinet with a width less than 16 inches, you’ll most likely be able to install it without notching the studs. Drive a drywall screw into the wall in the middle of the outlined area. Don’t drive the screw entirely into the wall, but leave enough of its length to use as a tab to pull out your inspection hole. Use a keyhole or drywall saw to cut a circular hole with a diameter of about 6 inches (15 cm) around the screw, then use the screw to pull out the cut section. Use a flashlight to look into hole and inspect the area where you want to cut your recess. If you see wires or pipes, call a plumber or electrician to have the obstructions rerouted. If there are no obstructing wires or pipes behind your wall, use a razor knife or a hole saw to cut along the cabinet outline you traced. Take care to only saw through the wall where you’re installing the cabinet, and don’t cut so deep that you come through the wall in the next room.  Avoid using power tools to cut out the hole since they can easily damage the wall on the other side. Try to use careful, even strokes to avoid disfiguring the remaining drywall outside of the cabinet outline. If your cabinet is wider than your stud distance, take a hacksaw and slide it behind the obstructing stud to cut any screws holding the next room’s wallboard to its back edge. Use a handsaw to cut through the stud flush with the top and bottom of the drywall opening. After removing the section of stud that's in the way, place the cabinet into the recess to check its fit. Make sure its door opens without obstruction. Use a utility knife and coarse file to fix any tight spots, like bits of protruding drywall or wall stud.

summary: Locate the wall studs. Hold the cabinet in place and trace its outline. Measure your cabinet width and stud distance. Cut an inspection hole. Cut out a hole along the outline of the cabinet. Notch the studs if necessary.


Summarize the following:
Put several T-pins in the lace line and in front of the ears to secure the wig to the stand. Check that the wig stand is straight, too! If you don’t have T-pins, you could also use basic sewing pins. Use 2 hair clips, and gather the front sections of the wig into your hands. Clip the hair in front of where the ears would be to ensure it doesn’t accidentally get cut while you’re layering the back sections. You’ll layer the front sections, too, but it’s easier to start with the back and finish with the front since the back is the area that normally needs the most work. Separate the top layers from the bottom layer of the wig hair. Leave the bottom layer in place—that will be the length of your wig. Then decide how long or short you want the layers to be. For example:  You could layer the middle section to fall 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) above the bottom layer and then layer the top section to fall another 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) above the middle layer. Or, you could create multiple layers by separating the middle and top sections into even small portions. It all depends on how layered you want your hair to be! Use another hair clip and gather the top portion of hair so just the bottom and middle sections are left hanging down. Secure the top section of hair away from the rest of the wig by clipping it down near the front of the wig. It helps to use a comb to separate the sections if you’re having a hard time doing it by hand. Cut sections that are 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) across at a time. Position your middle and index fingers at the length you want the first layer to be, and cut upwards at a 45-degree angle toward your fingers. Be careful to not accidentally cut your fingers during this process! Again, hold small sections of the hair between your middle and index fingers, and snip off the hair at a 45-degree angle. Brush or comb out the hair as you go along if you feel that the sections are starting to get tangled together. Remove the hair clips and brush out the hair on either side of the wig. Think about how you want the layers to frame your face. With layered hair, it’s often the case that the front sections are shorter than the back sections. With your scissors in your dominant hand, cut the sides of the front at a downward angle. Keep your elbow up in the air to help guide your hand in the right direction.  A lot of people will start the framing around ear length—that way the shortest sections of hair are still long enough to be styled. Similar to how you layered the back sections of the hair, cut the middle and then the top portions of the front of the wig, but cut at a downward angle rather than straight across. Section off the top portion as you work on the middle, and then end by layering the top. Remember to cut the front layers at a downward angle so that the hair will lay nicely with that front outline you created.

summary: Place your wig on a wig stand and pin it into place. Clip the front sections of hair in front of the ears to hold them back. Decide where you want your layers to fall. Pin the top section of hair so you can work on the middle section first. Hold small sections of hair between your middle and index fingers. Take down the top layer of hair and repeat the layering process. Stand in front of the wig and let down the 2 pinned front sections. Create an outline by cutting the hair that frames the face first. Layer the top and middle sections of the front parts of the wig.


Summarize the following:
To make the solution add 1 2/3 cups baking soda, 1/2 cup liquid soap, and 2 tablespoons (29.6 ml) white vinegar to a 1/2 cup of water. Mix well. This mixture is great at cleaning soap scum and grease. Put vinegar/detergent/baking mixture in spray bottle and spray, or use a clean rag or sponge to apply, vinegar/detergent/baking mixture onto the plastic surface. Rub down the plastic with the vinegar/detergent/baking mixture to remove any grime. Use water to rinse off the plastic. Depending on the item you can do this with a hose or faucet, or with more delicate items you may need to wipe it down with a wet cloth. Dry your now clean plastic with a clean dry towel.
summary: Make a vinegar/detergent/baking mixture. Wipe or spray mixture onto plastic. Scrub. Rinse. Dry.