Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Use a treat to lure the parakeet close to your finger. Push the “step up” finger against the parakeet’s abdomen. Say “step up” when the bird starts to step onto your finger. Praise your parakeet and offer it a treat after it steps up. Tell your parakeet to “step down” when you’re done. Keep your training sessions no longer than 15 minutes.

Answer: Once the parakeet is calm and relaxed around your hand and is willing to take treats from you, it’s time to start “step up” training. Put one hand—the one you’d like your parakeet to step onto—inside the cage close to where your parakeet is perching. Hold a treat or toy in your other hand and use it to entice the parakeet to move closer to the “step up” hand.  You can also hold the treat in the “step up” hand if you wish. Grasp the treat (such as a spray of millet) between your thumb and index finger, and extend your other fingers to act as a perch.  If your parakeet tends to get aggressive, you might want to start by training it to step up onto a dowel or stick instead of your finger. Extend your index finger and hold it parallel to the perch your parakeet is standing on. Keeping your finger at a slightly higher level than the parakeet’s perch, gently push it against the parakeet’s abdomen.  If your parakeet snaps at you, don’t yank your finger (or the dowel, if you’re using one) away. Try gently blowing in its face to distract it from the biting behavior.  Don’t persist in trying to get your parakeet to step up if it’s scared or upset. This will only cause it to form negative associations with training. If you need to, go back to just putting your hand in the cage for a while. As soon as your parakeet begins to step onto your finger, say “step up,” “up,” or another command of your choice. This will teach your parakeet to associate the command with the act of stepping up. You will need to use the same command every time you want your bird to step up.  If there is anybody else in your home who might interact with your parakeet, ask them to use the same command that you use. You should also be consistent with your “step up” hand gesture—i.e., always keep your finger or perch in the same position while asking the parakeet to step up. Some parakeets may use their beaks to help them step up. In this case, your bird will reach for your finger slowly and deliberately with its beak while stepping up, rather than lunging, snapping, or lowering its head and body in a threatening way.  If your parakeet does this, don’t yell or pull your finger away. It is not trying to aggressively bite or hurt you. If your parakeet obeys your command, give it a special treat and talk to it in a quiet, happy voice. If your parakeet enjoys being touched, you can also gently stroke its head. The first few times you try the “step up” command, you might offer your parakeet a reward even for putting one foot on your finger. When you’re ready for your parakeet to step off your finger, move it in front of a perch and hold it slightly below perch level. You may need to gently push your parakeet’s abdomen against the perch. As the parakeet steps onto the perch, say “step down” or “down.”  Use the “down” command even though your parakeet is technically stepping up. Using a separate command will help your parakeet understand that this means you want it to move off of your finger. Some bird experts prefer to use the “step up” command for both actions, since your parakeet will most likely be stepping up even when you are asking it to leave your finger.  Reward your parakeet with more praise and another treat if it successfully completes the “step down” command. If you spend too long working on training, your parakeet may begin to feel stressed and anxious. Keep your training sessions brief, and give your bird a chance to rest and relax before trying again.  Once your parakeet starts to get the hang of the “step up” and “step down” commands, try getting it to step up and down a few times during a session. If your parakeet seems to enjoy the training, you may repeat the training session 2 to 3 times per day. Do practice with your bird at least once a day, so that the previous day’s training will still be fresh in its mind.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Go to level 1-4. Jump on the red Koopa Troopa 1 time, hold the Koopa by holding the X or Y button. Run to the yellow pipe with the Koopa and release the X or Y button to release the Koopa.

Answer: After you score up to 8000, it should say 1UP.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Understand that modifying Minecraft can cause issues that will stop the game from running correctly. Choose a mod download page that seems to be well used and trusted by Minecraft users. Look through the available mods.

Answer: Additionally, it is important not to download files that may be harmful to your computer. You may want to ask other Minecraft users what sites they use before you begin this process. Read the descriptions to find a mod that will help you adjust the game to your liking.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Provide at least 2 acres per animal for year-round pasture grazing. Give your cattle feed if you have less than 2 acres of land per animal. Determine how many paddocks you will need. Design the paddocks according to the contours and resources of your land. Make the paddocks out of temporary fencing initially. Rotate your cattle between the paddocks daily. Ensure that your cattle have access to either high ground or shelter.

Answer:
This is a general estimate of the minimum amount of space needed if you plan to let your cattle rely primarily on field roughage (grass) for food all year round. This estimate takes into account the fact that grass production slows in the winter months. More space is even better since it gives you a safety net in the event of any grass problems or drought. If you are working with a small farm space, it simply means that you’ll need to provide food supplementation in the form of cattle feed. Talk with your livestock vet about exactly how much grain your herd will require throughout the year, as it will vary by season.  You can buy cattle feed at your local feed store or even online via bulk suppliers. Cattle feed is usually a blend of grains, such as barley or wheat. There is no exact formula to figure out how to size paddocks or how to divide cattle into them. Take inventory of the animals that you own and think about natural divisions, such as keeping cows/calves separate from bulls. You’ll also want to balance out your herd, so that it will be easier to rotate between paddocks. As a general rule, the smaller your paddocks are, the more often you’ll need to rotate your cattle to keep them from depleting the area’s resources. Once you know the rough size and number of your paddocks, look at an overhead map of your land. Separate your land into square-shaped paddocks with alleys in between them. When mapping everything out, try to divide up natural water features.  Also, consider the location of any watering holes or stations. Ideally, you want your animals to avoid trekking up and down rough or uneven terrain to get to water. Segmenting shaded spaces into separate paddocks can also help minimize grass damage. As cows gather in shaded areas they tend to ruin the surrounding grass, so it’s best to isolate this activity to keep your grass healthy. Because there is always a bit of guesswork involved in paddock design, installing temporary polywire or polytape fencing lets you make adjustments as necessary without a major hassle. Use fiberglass or industrial plastic posts and attach the poly fencing in between at the height of a cow’s head. Electrifying the fence can provide an added level of security, too.  Your alleys should be somewhere between 16 to 20 feet (4.9 to 6.1 m) wide. This makes it easier to mow or move machinery in between paddocks. Placing a fine layer of gravel on your alleys will keep them from getting too muddy. Place your gates in the corners and design them with the rotation of animals between paddocks in mind. Make the transition to permanent fencing by using a rail and board or steel post design. If you plan to plant fresh grass in your paddock, do so at least 6 weeks before introducing your cattle. Kentucky bluegrass, alfalfa, orchard grass, and white clover are all good sources of nutrients for cattle. If you place your entire herd into a single paddock, they will eat away at the grasses and ruin the space. Instead, move your herd once or twice a day to different paddock spaces. Round up your cattle, open the connecting gates between paddocks, and drive your cattle into the new paddock space.  For example, you’ll need to protect paddocks with less productive grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass. You may need to rotate your cattle out of this space more frequently. Adjust how frequently you rotate your cattle according to the specific season. In the spring and summer, you’ll need to move them more frequently to keep up with the grass growth. If extreme weather hits, you need to be able to move your cattle to a paddock with high ground, so that they can ride out the rain or flooding without injuries. Alternatively, you can build a barn or fenced in area with roof coverage for your cattle, but this is a luxury that many cattle owners do not create.  If you choose to keep your cattle in a contained area, muck out the manure regularly to avoid the spread of diseases. Check that the flooring of any housing is slip-resistant. This will reduce the possibility of injury to the animals, especially in wet conditions.