Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Excavate the area. Pour in and compact gravel in stages. Add landscape fabric (optional). Add a layer of sand. Screed the sand.

Answer: You'll need to dig deep enough to reach a stable surface beneath the topsoil, and often deeper to ensure the stones have solid support. Large installation projects may require an excavator, and a square shovel is always useful for creating the vertical walls.  For a driveway or other area with heavy car or machinery traffic, dig 7–9 inches (18–23 centimeters) deep, plus the height of the paving stones you'll be installing. For a walkway with only foot traffic, you only need to dig 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) deep, plus the height of the stones. Use crushed rock or gravel sized at about ¾ of an inch (1.9 cm). This will provide a base for the paving stones, and allow water to drain through. Rent or purchase a plate compactor, and use it to compact the gravel to make a stable, sturdy base. You may need to pour in the gravel in stages, as each compactor has a maximum depth that it can compact at one time.  The final layer should be 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) deep for areas with car or machinery traffic, or up to 12 in. (30 cm) in wet soil. Use a layer 3–4 inches (7.5–10 cm) deep for walkways. Some people install landscape fabric or geotextiles over the gravel at this stage. This helps prevent weed growth, and may help keep the base above it in place. However, other installers prefer to skip this step, as it is not a permanent weed solution and may lead to drainage problems in the long term. Pour in a 1 inch (2.5 cm) layer of sand to keep the paving stones in place. This sand is sold as "bedding sand" or "paver sand." Place a bubble level on top of a flat 2 x 4 or screed board. Scrape it over the surface of the sand, taking care to avoid stepping on the sand layer. The sand should be flat, but along a slight slope, between 1/4" (6mm) per foot (0.3m) and 1/2" (12mm) per foot (0.3 m).


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Lift a heavy dumbbell or kettle bell in each hand. Stand up straight. Start walking.

Answer:
This exercise is geared toward working your forearm muscle endurance by maximizing the time under tension. Start by lifting the dumbbells or kettle bells of your preference. Since “heavy” is relative to your routine, try a weight heavier than you would try to curl but not so heavy that you have to strain. You can always add more or less as needed.  If you really want to maximize this workout, instead of barbells or kettle bells, lift two weight plates pinched together in each hand instead. You will have to work your grip—and therefore forearms—extra hard to keep the plates pinched together so they don’t fall.  If you want to try loading even more weight into this exercise, try using a trap bar instead. With a trap bar, you can stand in the middle and lift the weight with both arms, which allows you to carry much more than your arms working individually. In order to put the brunt of the weight on the correct muscle groups, you want to brace your abs, keep your chest up, and keep your shoulders back. If you hunch, you’ll divert too much of the strain to your upper arms or back. The natural movement and inertia from walking will work your forearms much more than simply standing in place holding the weights, so start walking. Try this workout in sets of twenty yards to start with, or whatever you find comfortable. Increase the length of time gradually. Walking for a long time or using heavy weights before you are ready can cause a shoulder injury.