Lay out your water hose on a flat surface and try to make it as straight as possible. Use a tape measure to find the length of the hose from one end to the other. Write down the length of the hose so you can easily remember it later.  If you're using a new hose for your RV, look on the packaging to determine how long it is. You only need to measure the length of the hose that connects to your water supply. Heat cable detects the temperature of the hose and heats it up if it gets too cold. Get a heat cable that matches the length of your hose and secure the sensor with electrical tape so it's pressed against the hose. Run the cable parallel with the hose and wrap electrical tape around it every 1 foot (30 cm) so it stays in place.  You can buy heat cables from hardware stores or specialty camping stores. Use heat cables whenever you stay in an area that is colder than 32 °F (0 °C). Most RV sites in colder climates already have insulation around the supply lines. If the water supply line at your campsite doesn't already have insulation, you may need to wrap heat cable around it as well. Once the heat tube is secured, get enough foam insulation tubes to match the length of your hose. Pull the side of the foam tubing apart so you can put your hose inside of it. Press the opening in the side of the tubing together so the hose isn't exposed and use duct tape every 1–2 feet (0.30–0.61 m) to hold it in place.  You can buy foam tube insulation from hardware stores. Foam insulation also comes in pieces at 90-degree angles so you can insulate the port where your water hose connects to the RV. Some foam tubes are self-adhesive so you don't need to use tape. Pipe insulation tape has a foil-like exterior and adheres to itself to prevent heat from escaping. Start wrapping near the end of the hose, overlapping the tape by about 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) with each coil. Continue wrapping the tape around the foam tubing until you reach the other end of the hose.  You can buy insulation tape from your local hardware store. If you don't have insulation tape, you can also wrap aluminum foil around the tubing and duct tape it every 1 foot (30 cm) to hold it in place. Heat cable needs to have a power source in order to work, so run the plug either to the campsites power supply or an outlet on your RV. Once the heat cable is plugged in, it will detect low temperatures and turn on whenever it gets too cold for your hose. Attach the end of the hose to the port in the side of your RV that leads to the water tanks. Then connect the other end of the pipe to the water supply pump on your campsite. Open the valves by turning them clockwise so fresh water can run into your RV. If you're still worried about your hose freezing, you can use it to fill your fresh water tank and then disconnect the hose so it's not outside.

Summary: Measure the length of the hose so you know how much insulation to get. Tape heat cable every 1 ft (30 cm) along the hose. Cover the hose and heat cable with foam insulation tubes. Wrap the outside of the foam with pipe insulation tape. Plug the heat cable into the power supply to keep the hose warm. Connect the hose to the water supply and your RV's pump.


Remember to identify these areas by paying attention to where you notice rat droppings or areas that have been chewed. If the rats were in the area before, they probably will be in the area again. If they are living in your attic try to find the entrances they are using and set the traps there. Experts consider this the most humane way to get rid of rats.  Set a cage with a little bit of food inside of it. The spring release door will trap the rat as soon as it is inside the cage. You will then have to pick up the cage and release the rat somewhere. Bring them out into the woods somewhere a good distance from your house. You don’t want to worry about them finding their way back to your home and returning. They’ll find a new home somewhere, hopefully not where a person is already living.

Summary: Identify the rat's feeding and nesting areas. Use a nonlethal wire cage to trap and release rats if you want to avoid killing them. Release the rats far away from your home.


Place your middle finger on the right side of the ball and your index finger right beside it. The most important part of the grip here is that your middle finger is on the inside of the seam.  By having your middle finger on the inside of the seam, it allows you to flick downwards later on when you release the ball. This is what actually creates the spin. Your thumb and other fingers should be on the bottom of the ball and from the side your hand will look like a horseshoe around the ball. This will prepare you to engage in the weight shift necessary to get maximum power on the throw. Your left leg should be bent and your knee should be brought towards your chest. These instructions are for a right-handed pitcher. If you’re a left-handed pitcher, lean back on your left leg and raise your right leg instead. This is the first part of the weight transfer which helps you maximize the velocity and spin of the pitch. Your hips also need to open up from the coiled position they were in before. The chain of motion should go as follows: left leg first, followed by opening up of the hips, followed by your pitching arm snapping forwards and finishing down by your opposite hip.  This process incorporates your entire body into the pitch. When you’re throwing at game speed, every pitch should have maximum effort in it. The only difference between a fastball and a curveball is where you are applying the spin. Try practicing this chain of motion at a reduced speed before you work up to full pace. This is the single most important contributing factor to actually creating the curve. When you do this, you create the forward spin on the ball that makes the ball drop and curve in the air. It takes a lot of practice to get this motion right but once you get it, the results will be very clear. The goal of this type of curveball is to entice the batter into swinging at the ball early to elicit a strike. To do this, you need to throw the ball so it looks as though it is coming into the strike zone and then curves downwards at the end. This is something that obviously takes a lot of practice to master but before you throw at full speed, aim to be able to do this with about 80% accuracy.
Summary: Grip the baseball as you would with a 2-seam fastball. Load up by leaning back on your right leg and lifting your left leg in the air. Snap your left leg forward and plant it on the ground. Pull your arm forward as you snap your leg forward/downward. Flick your fingers down over the front of the seam when you release. Aim to throw the ball so it finishes underneath the strike-zone.