INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Start in the least-visible corner of the room, especially when installing molding with a design. This is because it is fairly easy to line up the pattern in each corner as you go, but the final corner will most likely not match. In the first corner, draw a line on each wall that intersects at the corner along the bottom of the molding. This will help keep you aligned as you install. To do this, hold a small piece of scrap molding up to the corner. Run a pencil along the bottom of the molding to the corner, and repeat the process on the other wall so the lines connect. Using a tape measure, measure the wall from corner to corner. Face the corner, and determine if you will start with the left piece or the right piece. Measure out your first piece of molding based on the wall measurement. Mark your measurements on the bottom side of the molding on both ends. Place the molding upside down on your saw table. Hold it as if the table was the ceiling, with the side that touches the wall facing you. This will allow you to see the measurement marks you made on the bottom edge. The molding will be installed flush against the wall in the corner. Don't worry about the angle yet, the second piece will be cut to fit into the first.

SUMMARY: Work on one section at a time. Measure your wall and molding. Prepare to cut. For the first section, you will be making straight 90° cuts on both ends of the molding.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Some suspenders have 2 connecting straps with buttonholes in the back and 2 straps with a buttonhole (1 per strap) in front. However, some suspenders are more elaborate than this and the back connects with 4 buttons while each of the front straps connects with 2 buttons. Check your suspenders to see how many buttons you will need to sew onto your pants to connect the suspenders. The back strap of your suspenders will need to connect with buttons near the center of the back of the pants. Find the center seam and measure 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the center on one side. Mark the point with a piece of chalk. Measure and mark the other side as well. You can place the buttons on the inside or on the outside of your pants. Placing the buttons on the inside is usually better for a formal look, such as a pair of dress pants. Placing the buttons on the outside is more informal, such as for a pair of blue jeans. Place the buttons that attach to the suspenders in the front of your pants so they are centered on each side of the front of your pants. The buttons will go in the areas that are just above the front of your hipbone. To get a good fit, you may want to put on your pants and after you have connected the back buttons. With the back of the suspenders connected by the back buttons, sling the suspenders over your shoulders and find where you want to connect them in front. Mark these areas with chalk to indicate where to sew the buttons onto. It is best to use simple buttons to hold suspenders in place, so avoid anything too ornate. Look for buttons that will match your pants and fit through the suspender buttonholes. The buttons should be about the same size as or slightly larger than the buttonholes.

SUMMARY: Check the type of suspenders. Measure 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the center of the back of the pants. Mark the placement of the front buttons. Choose some plain, flat, round buttons.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Mark the point to be cut on the gutters with an erasable marker. Hold the handle with your dominant hand and keep your index finger parallel to the top, pointing toward the cutting direction for support. Use the other hand to hold the frame at the top by the wingnut. Move the saw back and forth, using your dominant hand to move forward and backward and your non-dominant hand to apply downward pressure.  Always cut your gutter on a flat surface. Use heavy-duty wire snips for smaller cuts. For gutters that run around corners, cut the appropriate angle—usually 45 degrees—at the applicable end. Drill a 1⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) pilot hole through the fascia and into the rafter tails at each chalk mark. Afterward, attach the fascia brackets to using 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) stainless steel lag screws at least 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.  Apply soap to the lag screws to make it easier for them to penetrate the fascia. Review the manufacturer's recommendations for your type of gutter. Many gutter hangers come with long screws to go through your gutters and into the wood. To screw through the metal, turn them slowly at first so they can catch. Lay your gutter into the fascia brackets that you attached to the rafter tails. Rotate your gutter upward (pushing it away from you) until the edge closest to the fascia fastens into the hook on the back of the bracket. If you're having trouble mounting the gutters, remove them and then place them on again, making sure that the edge closest to the fascia is underneath the fascia bracket hook before you rotate it. Use an electric drill to create a 3⁄16 inch (0.48 cm) diameter hole into the front side of the gutter. Afterward, insert a 1 inch (2.5 cm) #8-32 stainless steel machine screw through the hole and cap it with a flanged nut to secure the gutter to the bracket.  Spray paint your brackets and gutters to contrast or match the house color. Use an electric drill to drive 1 −1⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) stainless steel hex head sheet metal screws through the back side of the gutter into the fascia. Be sure to do this once along every 2 foot (0.61 m) length along the gutter. After drilling in each screw, be sure to double-check the alignment of your gutter and ensure that it follows the chalk line. Screw the downspout into the gutter outlet that extends downward from the gutter. Be sure that the tapered end of the downspout is facing the appropriate direction for drainage. Afterward, apply a heavy bead of sealant to the connection seams between the downspout and its connector and let them sit overnight to dry.  Avoid aiming the tapered end toward regions with hose bibs, sidewalks, and electric meters. Join a 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) PVC pipe to your downspout to divert rainwater into the ground if you want to get it further away from your home.

SUMMARY: Cut the gutters to size with a hacksaw and heavy-duty tin snips. Attach the gutter's fascia brackets to the rafter tails. Mount the gutters to the fascia brackets. Secure the gutters to the fascia brackets using machine screws. Attach the gutters to the fascia. Attach the downspout to the gutters via the downspout outlet.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: To create a cleanser to remove the paint from your skin, add a small scoop of coconut oil and 2 to 3 drops of lemon essential oil to a bowl. Mix the ingredients well to ensure that they’re thoroughly combined.  You can use any type of oil, such as olive oil, jojoba oil, or canola oil, to help break down the oil-based paint. Coconut oil usually work best because it is solid at room temperature so it won’t make as big a mess as you rub it into your skin. The amount of coconut oil that you’ll need depends on how much paint is on your skin. Start with a small amount and add more if the paint isn’t coming off. Adding the lemon essential oil is optional. However, it is believed to be an extremely effective cleanser so it may help the paint come off more easily. After you’ve mixed the coconut oil and lemon essential oil, use your fingers to apply the mixture to the areas where the paint has stained your skin. Massage the coconut oil into your skin until the paint breaks down and comes off. If all of the paint isn’t coming off, add a little more coconut oil to your skin to help break down the remaining paint. After you’ve removed the paint with the coconut oil, use your usual hand or body soap and water to clean the residue from your skin. Pat your skin dry, and follow up with a moisturizing lotion to keep your skin from drying out. If you have a lot of paint on your skin, you may need to repeat the cleaning process two or more times to remove all of it.

SUMMARY:
Combine lemon essential oil and coconut oil. Rub the mixture all over the affected skin. Wash your skin with soap and water.