Summarize the following:
Getting the right frame size is only one part of sizing a bike correctly. Think of sizing measurements as your first draft -- it is the basis for everything that follows, but you need to make finer adjustments to get everything right. While you should set your seat before you buy a bike, making finer adjustments is crucial to comfortable sizing. Remember to pedal with the balls of your feet and don't swing your hips up and down with each stroke.  If you feel pain in the back of your knee when riding, your seat is too high. Lower it 1-2cm. If you feel pain in the front of your knee when riding, your seat is too low. Raise it 1-2cm. Loosen the bolt underneath the back of the seat to move the seat forward or backward several centimeters. Make sure the seat is far enough forward for you for you to reach the handlebars comfortably.  If your seat is in the right position, you will be able to stand on the pedals without using the handlebars to pull you up. If you have trouble standing, reaching for the bars, or feel finger numbness, then your seat is too far back. Trouble riding down hills and/or shoulder pain usually means your seat is too far forward. Use a carpenter's level to make sure the seat is flat, as this ensures even distribution of your weight. While some people believe a seat should be tilted up, a level seat is almost always the best starting point. However, if you experience crotch discomfort, you can try:  Women typically tilt the seat down for comfort. Men typically tilt the seat up for comfort.  Loosen the bolt on the side of the seat to change the seat angle. You can easily loosen the bolt, change the angle, then tighten again. Some older seats have two small bolts underneath the seat, one in front of the seat post and one behind. You must tighten one side to push that side up while loosening the other, almost like a see-saw. . You want to ride in a way that's comfortable for you, and that changes from person to person. You want to feel in control of the bike without lower back pain. Most beginner riders want the handlebars to be even with saddle, or 1-2" lower for racers and mountain bikers. Your elbows should be slightly bent and your fingers light on the handlebars -- they could freely play the piano if there was one there. The position of your handlebars is determined by four things:   Top Tube Length refers to the length of the bar between your handlebar stem and seat post. These are adjusted to fit the frame, and unless you have a very disproportionate body (torso much larger/smaller than legs) getting a properly sized frame will give you a properly sized top-tube.  Stem length is the distance between your top tube and the handlebars. The longer the stem, the further away the bars will be from your seat. Stems run from $15-$150 and are the primary way to adjust your frame to make it fit your torso. Longer stems bend you into a more aerodynamic position while shorter stems lead to a more upright, calmer riding style.   Handlebar angle can be changed independently from your stem. To do so, loosen the 4 bolts where the stem meets the handlebars and angle it up or down to your comfort. This is a great way to get an extra 1-3 inches on your handlebar position, which can make a big difference in comfort.   Handlebar height may often be changed by adding or removing the metal spacers where your stem meets your frame. To do so, loosen the bolt on the top of the stem and the two that clamp the stem to your frame and remove the handlebars. Then add or remove the spacers accordingly. You can only make minor changes, however, as there is not a lot of room for new spacers. Some older road bikes with quill or threaded stems may allow you to adjust the handlebar height by raising or lowering the stem.

summary: Know that you must adjust the seat and handlebars to truly size a bike. Make minor adjustments to your seat height if you feel knee pain. Adjust how far forward the seat is to change your distance to the handlebars. Start with your seat angle leveled evenly with the ground. Adjust your handlebars to ride comfortably


Summarize the following:
Not every shot in cricket can be a scoring shot. When a ball is well bowled, use a forward defensive shot to avoid being called out. Having a solid defense is a crucial part of being a good batsman.  Lean your head and front shoulder forward. Take a step with the front foot while keeping the back leg straight.  Swing the bat downward and contact the ball as it passes below the eyes. Keep the bat angled so the face is toward the ground. The bat should end up slightly ahead of your front leg and close the side of the pad. Do not follow through. Keep the heel of your back foot off the ground and hold the position to have the best chance to block the ball. This shot is usually played when a full delivery on middle or off stump. It is one of the most common shots and usually the first one learned by cricket players. Depending on the direction the ball travels, this shot can be referred to as a cover drive, off drive, straight drive, on drive, or square drive.  Lean forward and step with your front foot. Bend your front knee. This will give you a solid base for the shot. Your head should ahead or level with the front knee and your back foot should be up on the toe during the swing. Swing the bat straight and contact the ball when it is below the eyes. Keep your wrists relaxed and the bat angled to keep the drive low. Follow through should continue on a straight path so that the bat face is toward the sky. This shot is great to use against spinners. When you see a low-bouncing ball on the legside, go to the sweep shot.  Lean your head and front shoulder forward. Stride with your front foot so the pad is in the path of the ball. Drop your back knee to the ground. Lift the bat to a high backswing then bring the bat down and across the body. Strike the ball in front of the pad. Roll your wrists slightly when you make contact to angle the ball downward. Follow through. Bring your hands around after striking the ball so they end up near your front shoulder with the bat held high in the air. This shot relies on the speed of the bowled ball as opposed to the power of the hitter. A front foot leg glance is best used to play balls delivered off to the leg side.  Lean forward with your head and front shoulder. Shift your weight to your front leg. Bring the bat straight through. Angle the bat face slightly toward your front leg during the stroke. Make contact in front of the front leg pad. Flick your top wrist to glance the shot downward. This shot relies on control and precision to deflect the ball as opposed to a powerful swing.
summary: Play a forward defensive shot. Play a straight drive. Play a sweep shot. Play a front foot leg glance.