Q: Small surface cracks and chips that don't go all the way through the granite can be unsightly, but they don't pose a threat to the longevity of your granite surface. In fact, small cracks that go with the grain of the granite, called fissures, are a normal aspect of the stone.  If you can only see a hairline crack from a very specific angle and you can't feel it when you run your hand across the surface, then it is likely that the crack is completely harmless and can be left alone. To ensure that these small imperfections do not become more unsightly, be sure to seal your granite regularly, usually once a year. In order to make the repair blend in with the rest of the slab, you will need to color the glue to match it. This is done by using some of the granite to color the glue. To create granite dust, use a grinder with a diamond grinding bit to go over the surface of a matching piece of granite. The fine dust created is what you will use.  You will need no more than 2 teaspoons of granite powder to repair most cracks under 1 foot (0.30 m) long. If you have an extra piece of the counter top material, you can use this. You can also remove a bit of granite dust from an area that is not visible, such as the underside of a counter top. Wear a dust mask that is rated for this type of particulate. Cover the area all around the chip or crack so that the filler will not get all over the surface. Use painter's tape or any other tape product that can hold up to epoxy or resin, and yet will come off the granite easily when you are done. Mask off to within 1⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) around the whole crack or chip so that cleaning up will be easier. Follow the directions supplied with the epoxy you are using, which typically includes mixing a set amount of each part of the epoxy with each other. Then add the granite dust until the product is a thick paste that is the same general color as the granite.  Pick an epoxy that states on its packaging that it can be used for granite or stone repair. Use a wooden paint mixer or other disposable tool with at least 1 flat side to mix the epoxy. Tongue depressors work exceptionally well for this job. This tool will then also be used for applying the epoxy to the crack. Smear the epoxy into the crack or chip until it is filled. You can do this with the tool you used to mix the epoxy. Then smooth it out as much as you can, as any bumps will need to be sanded down. The epoxy does tend to shrink a bit while drying, so it's better to over-fill the crack than to under-fill it.
A: Determine whether the crack or chip needs to be repaired at all. Collect matching granite dust. Mask off the area. Mix 2-part epoxy and the granite dust. Apply the epoxy.

Q: Depending on the layout of your room, you may have little choice as to where the screen must go, but if possible, choose a wall that has no direct light, as light on the screen will make the image look washed out.  If you must choose a wall that receives direct light, consider an ambient light rejecting projector screen or, if you’re painting your screen on the wall, you can use ambient light rejecting paint (available at hardware stores).  You might also consider buying blackout curtains for your windows. This will again depend upon the layout of your room. If you only have a couch and some chairs in the room (i.e. not theater-style seating in rows), an appropriate height would be between 24 and 36 inches (61 and 91.5 centimetres) off the floor.  If you have multiple rows in your home theatre, you’ll want to have the screen a bit higher so that people who aren’t in the front row can still properly see whatever images or films you are projecting on to the screen.  When deciding on how far above the floor to place the screen, always keep the screen size in mind, as starting it too high off the ground might not leave enough room for the entire screen. This will be the height and width on which you wish to project the images from your projector. Keep the measurements handy, as you will need them while calculating where to mount your projector. Most projectors can create a high-quality 100-in. (254-cm, or 8.33-foot) image, so if you’re unsure of what size of screen to get — and your room can accommodate it — you should be safe with something close to 100 in.
A: Decide on the best location for the screen. Decide on your screen height. Know your screen size.

Q: Avoid signing with your initials or a monogram or people may not be able to identify you as the artist. Even if some people recognize your initials or monogram now, other people might not, and your painting could eventually become unidentifiable if your full or last name isn't on it. If people can’t read your signature, they won’t be able to identify you as the artist. It's true that some famous artists have illegible signatures, but they can get away with it because a lot of people in the art world are familiar with them. If your signature is illegible, future owners of your painting will have a hard time finding out who you are. Practice signing a legible signature on a piece of paper. Then, show a few friends and ask if they can read it. If they can’t, work on making it easier to read. That way people will start to recognize your signature overtime, which will make your artwork easier to identify. If your signature is always different, people might not realize your paintings were made by the same artist. If you don’t like the signature you’ve used in the past, come up with a new one now and use it on all your future paintings. A signature that is too bold can take away from the rest of your painting. Your signature should be noticeable enough that people looking for it can find it, but not so noticeable that it’s the first thing people’s eyes are drawn to. An easy way to make your signature blend in is to paint it using a color that appears a lot in your painting.
A:
Sign your painting with your full name or last name. Use a signature that’s easy to read. Use the same signature on all of your paintings. Avoid using an eye-catching signature.