In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: You'll need HM01 Cut already. You'll need to have at least 10 Pokémon in your Pokédex. You'll leave the city and find a cave. You'll see "Diglett's Cave" in the upper left corner of your screen as well as a man next to a ladder down. If you step on the ladder, you will load into the floor below. Follow the path west and north until you find another ladder. If you step on the ladder, you will load into the floor above. You'll see a digger and the words "Diglett's Cave" in the upper left corner of your screen. You'll appear on Route 2, so follow the path south. You'll see the tree growing between poles. Once you cut down the tree, continue south. You'll see two people. Speak to the guy without the hat, and he should give you "HM05 Flash" if you have ten Pokémon in your possession. "Flash" lights up dark caves (like the Rock Tunnel).
Summary: Go to Vermilion City. Head south-east to Route 11. Enter the cave. Go down the ladder. Go up the ladder. Exit the cave. Use Cut on the tree blocking your path south. Enter the building.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Card stock paper in colors, patterns, and textures of your choosing A pencil and good-quality eraser A thumb tack Scissors or a paper cutter Double-sided tape A styrofoam or foam board (for poking holes) Design stencils (optional) You’ll be making this lantern by drawing on a piece of card stock, poking holes in it, taping it into a tube, and placing it over a candle. Before drawing on the card stock, decide on your lantern’s size and, if necessary, cut the paper to size.  You may want to choose the size of your lantern based on the candle you plan to use. You can also choose the size of the lantern based on the card stock you have or where you want to use the lantern. Use a pencil to very lightly sketch in your desired design right at the center of the card stock. This will be the front of your lantern.  You don’t have to limit yourself to the front of the lantern. You can also do a larger design that goes all the way around, or off to the side. It’s up to you! It may be tempting to get ambitious with your design. Just remember that the more holes you poke, the more time it’ll take you to make your lantern! Remember to sketch lightly so that it’s easier to erase the pencil markings once you’ve poked your holes. Try to keep the space between holes as even as possible. Do this until the design is complete.  You’ll want to place the card stock on a piece of styrofoam or foam board for this step, so that the thumb tack has a firm surface it can fully sink into. One to two millimeters between holes would work well, but it doesn’t have to be exact — you can eye it! Use a good, soft eraser to remove the pencil marks along your designs. A thick, soft white eraser will work well.  Be sure to press gently as you erase the pencil marks, and do not hold the paper against a hard surface as you erase them, otherwise the holes you’ve made may close up a bit. If the holes do close up a bit as you erase the pencil marks, it’s not a big deal — just use a thumb tack to gently push them outward again. To fasten the sides together, place double-sided tape on the back of one side of the paper, and on the front of the other side so that when they overlap they’re extra secure. If you have a large candle, you can wrap the card stock around the candle to get the shape you want. Place a votive into a glass votive holder and light it, then place the cylinder over the lit votive. To reduce the fire hazard, you can use an electric candle.
Summary: Gather your materials: Decide on the size of your lantern. Draw your design on the card stock paper. Use a thumb tack to make holes along the lines of your design. Erase the pencil marks. Roll the card stock into a cylinder and fasten its sides together. Place your paper cylinder over a lit candle. Enjoy your lantern!

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Hold one end of a measuring tape at the far side of your bust. This is where the outside edge of your bra cup is positioned. Place the tape horizontally across the fullest part of your bust until you reach the outside edge of your bust on the other side. Make note of the length; this will be your front bust measurement.  Remember to stand upright, keep the tape measure parallel to the ground, and be sure your elbows are held close to your body. Avoid lifting your arms as this will distort the measurement. To get the most accurate measurement, have someone assist you. The amount you subtract will vary based on your bust size and how tight you want the top to be. It should also incorporate a narrow 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) seam allowance. For a smaller bust or tighter fit, subtract 4 in (10 cm). For a larger bust or looser fit, subtract 2 in (5.1 cm). This number will become the width of the two cups when measured horizontally across the front of your bust. Consider this your bikini top's front width measurement.  For example, if your front bust measurement is 18 in (46 cm) and you have a moderately sized bust, you might decide to subtract 2 1⁄2 in (6.4 cm). Your finished bikini top's front width will be 15 in (38 cm), plus the  1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) seam allowance on both sides. If you prefer to use a wider seam allowance, just add this into your measurement. You can also draw in both the finished line (which is where you'll sew, and indicates the edges of the finished garment) as well as the cut line (which includes the seam allowance) if you wish. This measurement will typically be at least 5 to 7 in (13 to 18 cm) when finished, plus 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) seam allowance. It depends on your bust size and how much coverage you want. If you have a larger bust or desire more coverage, more height will give you fuller coverage. If you have a smaller bust or desire less coverage, go with a lower height measurement. If you're not sure, measure the height of your favorite bra or bikini top for reference. Then, add  1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) for seam allowance around all sides. Place fashion fabric (the material you'll use for the outer part of the bikini) with its right-side facing down onto a flat surface. Use a ruler and a fabric marking pencil or chalk to draw a rectangle onto the wrong side of the fabric. Its dimensions will be your bikini top's front width by height.  For example, if you determined a top length of 15 in (38 cm) and desire 7 in (18 cm) of height, your rectangle will measure 15 by 7 in (38 by 18 cm). When selecting your fashion fabric, the best choice is something that's specifically marketed for use in swimwear, since it will provide the right amount of stretch, water absorption, and colorfastness. Try searching under the performance fabric category of a few online fabric stores to find your favorite print. If your fabric has a stripe or other printed pattern, position your pattern pieces in the correct orientation out so that the design will appear upright once the garment's finished. You wouldn't want sideways zebra stripes or upside-down letters, after all! If there is a particular motif you want visible on the swimsuit, such as a large flower, center your pattern piece around that. Use sharp fabric scissors to achieve a clean line while cutting. Since you're cutting a stretch fabric, be careful not to stretch it out or snag the edges. This piece will become the outer portion of your bikini top.
Summary:
Take your front bust measurement. Subtract 2 to 4 in (5.1 to 10.2 cm) to determine the bikini top's front width. Determine your bikini top's height, based on the coverage you want. Draw a rectangle on your fashion fabric using width and height measurements. Cut out this rectangle with fabric scissors.