Q: Hardiness zones are based on the average minimum winter temperature in a given area and are divided into categories separated by 10-degrees Fahrenheit. They can tell you which plants will thrive in your area and which plants will not do well in the climate of your area. Additionally, you can find out when the best time of year to plant is based on your hardiness zone. Visit http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/ to find out which zone you live in. The interactive map will even display information about microclimates in your yard. Most vegetables require a lot of sunlight to grow into healthy producers, but you may want to vary the sun to shade ratio of your garden to allow for some shade growing plants as well. However, if your vegetables don't get enough sun, they won't produce as much and will be more susceptible to pests. It's best to have an idea about what plants you want to grow before choosing a site.  You can grow dark, leafy vegetables like broccoli and spinach in places in your garden that do not get full sun. If you live in an area with little sun, don't be discouraged. You can still plant a magnificent garden, though you'll probably have to leave tomatoes out of the equation. Alternately, if you live in an extremely hot climate, you may want to choose partial shade for some of your vegetable varieties in order to protect them from extreme heat. For example, cool-season peas may benefit from growing in partial shade.
A: Find out which USDA Plant Hardiness Zone you live in. Choose a spot with at least six hours of direct sunlight per day.

Article: With so many cars with anti-lock brakes (ABS), people just slam on the brakes in any situation. This can be a good option, but it is not always the best. Braking (even with ABS) can cause reduced handling capabilities and actually place you in more danger.  Turning while on the brakes can cause the vehicle to neither turn as well as it could without the brakes or cause the vehicle to slowdown less than it could have without turning (read some of the maneuvers for further explanation). In 90% of corners, racers (of any race type) use their brakes before they get to the corner, make the corner, then use the gas. Each section of the corner (or the straights before and after the corner) has its own purpose and separation of brakes and turning gives the best traction for the vehicle to make a desired corner.  There is also a technique called "Trail Braking," which is essentially braking while cornering. It is best executed by entering a corner quickly, and braking hard before turning. Continue braking until you have slowed down enough. Trail Braking transfers weight from rear to front, thus pushing the front tires into the ground and giving the car more steering bite. This should only be done with experience, because it can easily backfire. Depress your brake pedal, do not slam it to the ground. This is a method called squeezing your brakes, and is essential to get the best braking potential from your vehicle. You bring your vehicle's tires just to the point of breaking traction. While some people say pumping your brakes is a good way to stop, especially on low traction surfaces, it is only a reliable way to stop in an emergency.  This can be easily practiced in an empty parking lot. Roll down your windows and start at one end of the lot. Accelerate to a safe speed (30–40 mph (48–64 km/h) should be good) and slam your brakes as hard and you can. You should hear a good deal of squealing (if you do not, you may have ABS, you may not have disc brakes, or your brakes may need replacing). Now go back the other direction and this time quickly depresses your brakes until you get the squealing again. Go back and forth until you are able to apply your brakes while only hearing a whisper of squealing (this is called the optimal squeeze point – OSP). What is the whisper of squealing I speak of? This is the point where your tire's rubber is being twisted and contorted to a point that only parts of your tires are actually skidding; this is the absolute limit of your tire's traction, and the quickest way to stop. You can measure this by setting up markers as to when to start braking and when you stop the car, and you can visually see the difference between your tires locked up and not. Extra practice: Purposely lock up your brakes. Now practice reducing pressure on the pedal until it stops locking up, then apply pressure to the OSP again). Take note: each surface and speed will have different OSP's. This is why you should practice while it is dry, then while it is raining, and then when it is snowy (if available). Get yourself adequately adapted to different traction levels so nothing will surprise you. In almost all cases, just depressing your brake pedal smoothly (albeit quickly) to the floor is often best. You will likely feel the pedal either vibrate (dependent ABS) or feel like it gives out altogether (independent ABS). Either way it is a sign of the ABS working. Of course, if the pedal feels like it gave out, and you aren't stopping, your brakes probably gave out, in which case you should just kiss it goodbye (or read the wikiHow article, How to Stop a Car with No Brakes).
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Braking is a lost skill. Race car drivers, who are always on the edge with their vehicles, have learned the needed skill of separating braking from turning. Using your brakes (if you do not have ABS) should be done smoothly. Using your brakes (if you have ABS) is much simpler. For more information on braking, read How to Brake and Stop a Car in the Shortest Distance.

Q: If you know the font or want to choose your own, you can simply add it in now by pressing "T" to bring up the Type Tool. However, if you want the exact font, you'll need to do a little digging. You can  download fonts for free online and add them to Photoshop (as .ttf files, most commonly). You can also look up specific fonts using the website WhatTheFont, which finds a font in the image you uploaded. While most fonts need to be tweaked, a simple replacement job might be done as soon as you type in your new font. Select the right font, color, and then write out the text. Place it roughly where it needs to go, then right click on the type in the layers pallet and select "Rasterize Type..." Rasterizing type makes it easier to adjust. However, you can no longer change the actual words once rasterized, so make sure everything is spelled right. To get to free transform, make sure your next text is selected in the layers menu. Then press Ctrl+T or ⌘ Cmd+T to transform the text. You can also select "Edit" → "Free Transform." This box allows you to resize the object, but that is not all:  Click on any point to change the size of the text from the point. Hold ⇧ Shift to keep the total proportions the same while resizing. Hold Ctrl or ⌘ Cmd while clicking a point to pivot or angle that point, allowing you to give the points perspective. Hold Alt or ⌥ Opt to stretch, squeeze, or flip the text. Say, for example, that you want to replace text around a soda can. Getting the exact bend is going to be impossible without some finer control than "Free Transform" can offer. Instead, open up "Filter" → "Liquify." From here, use the brush to slowly curve the text exactly how you need it.  Make the brush as big as possible to adjust the entire block of text at the same time. Lower the brush pressure for more subtle effects.
A:
Find the right font to replace your text with. Type and place your font, then rasterize it. Use "Free Transform" to adjust, angle, and place the text. Use the "Liquify" tool to hand rotate, twist, and bend text to fit the final object.