INPUT ARTICLE: Article: For a simpler method of presentation, lay uncut flowers with long stems across the top of the cake, or on the platter around the based. Cut wax paper or roll a thin layer of fondant to cover the part of the cake that touches the flower. One or two whole flowers will make for a modestly beautiful look.  Be sure to trim away any thorns, leaves or visible imperfections from the flower stems before situating them on the cake. Whole flowers can be used to spruce up naked or smaller cakes in a breeze. Rather than inserting flowers into the top of the cake, stick them between the layers on the outer edges of larger cakes. This will create the effect that the flowers are blooming out of the cake. Use foam dividers if you’re worried about damaging the layers or contaminating the cake. Place fresh flowers in a ring around the base, middle layers and top of the cake to create a festive border. Gently remove the petals from your flowers of choice. Be careful not to mash or tear them. Use a loose hand to sprinkle them around the base of the cake, or sparingly on top. Flower petals can give your cake an infusion of color and bohemian grace without the need to mess with soaking, cutting and arranging whole blossoms. Loose flowers petals can be picked off before serving, or eaten, provided that they belong to an edible species. Some types of flowers are safe to be actually eaten. Mix in a small amount of these flowers with fruit, candies and other confections for a dessert with bright, floral notes. Clover, marjoram and hibiscus are all common flower varieties that can make a great cake topper.  It may be better to avoid decorating with especially fragrant types of edible flowers such as roses and jasmine, as the chemicals that produce their trademark scents can easily overpower the flavors of a cake.  Use a light hand when finishing cakes with flowers that are meant to be eaten. Their petals can sometimes be dry, waxy and hard to chew and swallow in great quantities.

SUMMARY: Use whole flowers. Place flowers between the cake layers. Sprinkle flower petals around the base. Mix edible flowers with fresh fruit.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Because wild ginseng is so valuable, poachers are common in regions where it is grown. Fencing off the area won't deter someone who knows the ginseng is there, but it may prevent people from discovering the site. A loud dog may be an excellent thief deterrent. Ginseng that grows too close together may spread disease between plants or compete with each other for nutrients. Consider removing or transplanting plants after the first growing season to get down to 6 plants per square foot (65 per square meter), and again after the second year of growth down to 1 or 2 plants per square foot (11 to 22 per square meter). You may also plant ginseng in other areas each year during the fall to develop an ongoing harvest. Many growers do this so they have mature ginseng to harvest each year after the first batch matures. One major advantage to the wild-simulated method is a reduced risk of pest and disease, due to the wider spacing. While a few plants or berries may be eaten occasionally, you are unlikely to lose many of the valuable roots, and diseases shouldn't spread between plants at a high rate. If you do encounter a problem, contact your local wildlife department for information about ginseng pesticides. Keep in mind that you may lose your organic certification or your credibility in selling wild-simulated ginseng if you use pesticides. You'll need to wait about 7 to 10 years for your plants to mature into large, valuable roots, but with the right site and a little luck. Growing ginseng with the wild-simulated method requires a lot of patience, but almost no maintenance. Check periodically to see if the ground remains moist and covered with a small amount of leaf litter. If your ginseng is planted densely, harvest after 4 years or the roots might begin to dwindle These roots will not be as valuable, however. The part of the ginseng plants above the surface will die back in the autumn, but grow again in the spring. It will grow bigger each time, and all the while, the root below will be growing larger. Once the plants have matured, they will produce a cluster of red berries with the seed in the center. Pick these in the fall if you want to harvest the seeds for planting or selling. Keep in mind they will need to be stratified as described under Preparing the Seeds. Given how long it takes ginseng to reach maturity, you’ll probably want to harvest your plants as soon as you can, which is typically 7 years for a high quality root. If you’re not in any hurry you can leave them in the ground for many more years and they will continue to grow. If you are in a hurry, check local laws for regulations on how early you can harvest ginseng. Use a pitchfork or needle-nose spade to dig under the plant, and leave plenty of space (about 6 inches or 15 cm) between the plant and where you push the pitchfork or spade into the ground. If the plant is close to immature ginseng plants, use a smaller implement such as a stout flat blade screwdriver about 8 or 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) long, and work with extra care. If there is any risk of damaging the roots of adjacent immature ginseng plants, do not attempt to harvest the plant until the other plants mature.  Note: Ginseng plants typically grow at a 45º angle into the soil, not straight down, and will fork into several sections. Dig carefully and make sure you don't break the root. Briefly soak the roots in a bucket of cool water to remove excess soil. Then place the roots in a single layer on a wooden tray and wash them gently under a sink faucet or with a hose. Make sure the roots are not touching and let them dry on a wooden rack in a well-ventilated room with a temperature between 70º and 90ºF (21–32ºC). Humidity should remain between 35 and 45% to prevent drying the plant too quickly and reducing its value. Turn the plants once per day. The roots are ready when you are able to snap them, but you should only do this on a single test root now and then.  Do not scrub the roots or wash them too vigorously—some of the medicinal chemicals are concentrated in the root hairs, and removal of these hairs will decrease the usefulness and value of the root. Small roots take a day or two to dry, but large, mature roots may take up to six weeks.  Direct sunlight usually dries the roots too fast, but if you see any mold or discoloration growing, put them in direct sun for a few hours to kill the infection.

SUMMARY:
Keep the location secret and secure. Thin densely growing ginseng each year. Research carefully before using pesticides and pest poison. Wait for the plants to mature. Don't expect the plants to stay visible year round. Harvest red berries annually after the third year. Harvest mature plants at any point past the seventh year. Dig carefully so as not to damage the root. Wash and dry the roots.