Problem: Article: Don’t use any helmets that have a facemask that will make your belly look bumpy and strange. A bicycle helmet will probably work best for this. They come in many different shapes, any of which should work just fine as a fake belly — but try out a few different shapes, if you have options, to see which one makes the most convincing baby bump in your opinion. You don’t want your belly to look bumpy, so make sure to apply as many layers of tape as necessary to render the helmet completely smooth. By the time you’re finished, there should be no evidence of ridges left. If you’re not planning on using the helmet for anything else, you can just cut the straps off carefully with a pair of sharp scissors. That might be a waste of a good helmet, though! You can also just tuck the straps inside the helmet, then use a little bit of the masking tape to tape it to the dome, making sure they stay put and don’t hang out the bottom of fake belly, or you could keep the straps on and use them to secure the belly to your torso. There are a few different ways you can try to keep your helmet in place, and you might even try a combination of a couple of these ideas. You don’t want your belly sliding around or falling off!  Tightly wrap an elastic athletic bandage (like an Ace bandage) several times around the helmet and your back. Use as many layers as you need to secure the helmet and make the bump look smooth when a shirt is pulled down over it. Secure the helmet with some of the masking tape from step 2. Layer a few tight bandeaus over the helmet to keep it in place. If your shirt is too tight, it might be obvious that the belly is shaped a little strangely. It’s better to choose a looser, flowier shirt.
Summary: Choose a helmet that will serve as your baby bump. Apply masking tape over the top of your helmet to hide the ridges. Secure or remove any hanging straps on the helmet. Attach the helmet to your torso. Wear a shirt that complements your fake pregnancy belly.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Choose a plastic or ceramic pot. You’ll also need a small tray to keep under the pot. Block off the draining holes at the bottom of the pot with a small square of polypropylene weed block cloth. This will keep the damp soil from draining into the water tray.  You can buy weed block cloth at your local nursery or online. The fabric will probably come in pretty large swaths, so use a utility knife to cut a square that fits inside your small pot. Set aside the leftover in your garage. You’ll only need one pot for all the seeds. To stick with the plant’s normal growth cycle, start germinating in either late fall or early spring. If you’re germinating seeds that you plan to transplant outdoors once they’ve matured a bit, it’s better to begin in early spring. Indoor plants are a little more flexible. You can actually start the germination process for these plants at any time during the year. Use silica sand number 12, which is a coarse sand meant for planting. In a small bucket, mix it with peat moss to make an equal-parts potting soil. Dampen the sand and peat to make mixing easier. Both of these materials will be available online.  Do not use beach or building sand. Local nurseries and retailers may not carry these potting materials, since they’re specialty items. Avoid the use of compost and fertilizers in your mix. Use a scoop or trowel to transfer the mixture to your pot. Fill the pot to the top, but loosely. You can then gently pack down the soil, but don’t pack it too tight. The soil will expand with water later. Distribute the seeds evenly across the surface of the soil. Do not bury them. Use a spray bottle to mist the seeds with mineral-free distilled water until the soil is damp. Then pour a little water inside a resealable plastic bag and put the pot inside. Now seal it up! If you’re germinating a cold temperate species of Drosera, the seeds need to have a pretend winter in the fridge before they’re ready to germinate. Dampen some peat soil and use it to loosely fill a small, resealable plastic bag. Put the seeds in the bag with the peat and leave the bag in the refrigerator for four weeks. You can then transfer the seeds to the pot. Over the next several weeks, keep checking the soil. If it’s dried out, re-mist it. Always use distilled water. Keep the room where you’re germinating at about 70-80℉ (about 20-25℃) In the spring and summer, they should get 14 hours of light a day. In the fall and winter, cut exposure back to 12 hours a day. Your pots should be kept about 6-10 inches (15-25 cm) from the lights. Check for signs of germination after three weeks, but keep the pots in the sealed bags until the seedlings look like they’ve fully rooted into the soil. This could take a few months. Rooted seedlings will look more stable and mature, and they shouldn’t appear as though they’re just “floating” on top of the soil. They’ll also have some “true leaves” that look tiny tentacles.

SUMMARY: Pick up a 3x3 inch (8x8 cm) pot for indoor germination. Start germinating in early spring or late fall. Make a 1:1 mixture of sand and peat for the soil. Fill your pot with the soil and pack it lightly. Sprinkle the seeds over the soil and mist the pot. Check the soil dampness and re-mist if necessary. Keep the seeds under fluorescent lights for 4+ weeks.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Make sure that the side you want to be printed on is facing up. Most transfers are translucent, so it would be best to use a white, solid-colored shirt. If your transfer is labeled as "opaque" or suitable for colored shirts, you can use any color of shirt you want. Make sure that the transfer paper is inside the pressing area, including the silicone pad and heat pad.  If you are pressing an embroidered appliqué, set it down embroidered-side-up, adhesive-side-down. If you are pressing heat transfer vinyl, set it matte-side down, shiny-side-up. Some types of heat presses already have a protective silicone pad. If yours does not, or if you are pressing an appliqué or heat transfer vinyl, you will need to lay down a thin cloth on top of your shirt and transfer. This will protect the transfer. A handkerchief, tea towel, or thin piece of cotton fabric will work great for this. Pull down on the handle, clamping the press shut. You may need to adjust the pressure, especially if you are pressing an embroidered appliqué or patch. The handle will most likely lock into place, depending on the specific model you have. When the timer goes off, press the start button again. This will stop the press and reset the timer. Peel the paper off of the fabric while the paper is still hot. The image should now be printed onto the shirt. If you need to press another design onto the back of your shirt, insert a piece of cardboard inside the shirt first. Adjust the plate height so that there is less pressure, then press the shirt again. This way, you won't accidentally reheat the first image.
Summary:
Place your t-shirt onto the plate. Set the transfer face-down on top of the shirt. Cover the transfer, if necessary. Close the press. Press the start button. Open the press and remove the shirt. Press more shirts, if desired.