Summarize the following:
Rotor heads are the most common and versatile type of sprinkler head. They pop up as directed by a timer and revolve 360 degrees in order to spray water across a large area. You can adjust the distance that each head will spray from 8–65 feet (2.4–19.8 m). Gear-driven rotor sprinkler heads are an improved version of the older (and much louder) impact style of rotor sprinklers. “Bubbler” sprinkler heads do not elevate above the ground level and, as the name implies, emit a low-level stream of water designed to saturate the ground in a garden or heavily vegetated area. Each bubbler can only irrigate an area of about 3 square feet (0.28 m2), so they need to be placed relatively close to each other. Bubbler-type sprinklers only work on flat ground. If you try installing a bubbler on a sloped patch of your yard, you'll end up with a small river running downhill. If you need to water an area right next to the side of your home or garden shed and would rather that the sprinkler head not blast water all of the building itself, choose a fixed pop-up head. These heads spray water in a half-circle, so you don't have to worry about watering the side of a building. Fixed pop-up head sprinklers are also great to use next to paved areas like driveways and streets.

summary: Choose a gear-driven rotor sprinkler head to cover wide areas. Opt for shrub heads or bubblers to irrigate shrubs and flowers. Stick with fixed pop-up heads for watering areas adjacent to buildings.


Summarize the following:
You can use just about anything that is smooth and flat as your palette, such as a: piece of plastic, sheet of wax paper, plastic lid, or a plastic paint tray. You will be blending these colors together, so pick out colors that will blend well together. Avoid contrasting colors, as they may create a muddy effect. Here are some color samples for you:  Warm colors, such as: red, orange, yellow Cool colors, such as: blue and purple or blue and turquoise Analogous colors, such as: pink, blue, and purple. Because you used rubbing alcohol, this should not take very long; alcohol evaporates quickly. Avoid blowing on your nails, or your might spread the wet Sharpie "paint" around and mess up your design.

summary: Find something to use as a palette. Choose two to three colors of Sharpie. Wait for the Sharpie to dry.


Summarize the following:
During the active growing season, which is generally spring through summer, try to support your plants by feeding them every fortnight (which is every 14 days). Start doing this as soon as the first buds appear on the plant. A general water-soluble plant feed or one that your rake into the soil is fine. This encourages the plant to produce flowers. You can purchase plant feed at your local gardening supply store. You should make a point to water your tubers just after planting, as mentioned above. Continue to water your new plants once every 10 to 14 days. When the first foliage, or leaves, appear on your plants, you should try to water them once a week. Continue watering your plants once a week until fall comes around. In the fall, the ranunculus will die back, or go dormant, and will not need to be watered. Dormancy is covered more thoroughly in Step 5 of this section. Sadly, ranunculus can fall prey to pests like slugs and aphids. Luckily, there are measures you can take to make sure that these pests stay away.  Combat slugs with slug pellets, which are sprinkled around your ranunculus. You can purchase these pellets at a garden supply store. A standard aphid spray or insecticidal soap should be applied if aphid attack occurs. As with many flowering plants, it’s advisable to remove spent flowerheads once they wither (when they dry up and die). This not only makes the plant look tidier, it also encourages other flowers to form and reduces the amount of energy the plant spends on seed formation, which helps preserve its strength. Use a sharp pair of scissors to snip off the dead heads as soon as they begin to look scruffy. Try to cut the flower at the base of the stem, which is located in amongst the foliage, or leaves. Once the flowering season ends in fall, allow the foliage to die back. Dying back means that the plant becomes dormant until the next flowering season. To encourage the plant to regrow the next season: Refrain from cutting the dead growth away before the first frost. You don’t need to water the plant while it is dormant; in fact, these plants do better if they are not watered while they are dormant in the winter. Ranunculus will tolerate a light frost if left in the ground through a fairly mild winter. If your local climate regularly experiences heavy frost then dig up the tubers and store them in a cool dark place such as a garden shed for the winter. Try to avoid bringing them into a heated space like your home as they tend to rot under these conditions. Because of the difficulty establishing ranunculus as perennials (plants which flower year after year), many gardeners just treat them as annuals (plants which flower only one year). However, if you are determined to see yours bloom again, dig up your tubers for the winter, as described in the previous step. Ranunculus make a beautiful cut flower that generally remains healthy for awhile after being cut if measures are taken to preserve the cut. To preserve the life of cut ranunculus flowers, cut them early in the morning just as the buds are starting to open. A good clean cut using a sharp blade will help make the cut clean. Snip the stem at the base of the plant just about the crown and within the foliage. This avoids leaving exposed cut stems.
summary: Feed your plants with ‘plant feed’ every 14 or so days. Water your ranunculus. Defend your ranunculus against pests. Remove withered flowerheads with sharp garden scissors. Allow your plant to ‘die back’ in the winter. Store the ranunculus inside during the winter if you live in a climate that gets heavy frost. Understand that many gardeners view ranunculus as annuals. Preserve blooms that you cut.