Article: Once you find the hole, carefully check to see if it was caused by a foreign object (like, for instance, a piece of broken glass, a sharp rock, etc.) or if it was a pinch flat (which will cause a puncture that looks like a snake bite but won't leave any foreign objects).Carefully check the inside rim of the tire for any protruding foreign objects and remove them if you find them. You don't want the same object that caused the flat in the first place to re-puncture your tire because you didn't see it. Different types of patches work in different ways — some require glue, while others do not, and some require sanding, while others can stick to the smooth rubber of the inner tube with no trouble. Consult the directions included with your patch kit. If you're directed to sand, use a small square of sandpaper to rough up the area around the hole about as wide as the patch to be used. Making the rubber a little less smooth can improve the sticking power of certain types of adhesives. If you're unsure about whether or not to sand, lightly sanding is unlikely to hurt most patches' ability to stick to the tube, so you may want to sand just in case. Next, stick your patch over the puncture hole according to any included directions. Some patches require glue, while others can stick to the tire on their own — while the latter are more convenient, they can sometimes be less reliable. General directions for both types of patches are below. If the directions included with your patch differ from these, follow your instructions, rather than these directions.  Glue patches: Apply the glue or rubber cement to the tube around the puncture hole, wait for the glue to set (many glues must dry until they are no longer tacky — consult any included directions for more information). Finally, place the patch on the mostly-dry glue and hold firmly in place for a few minutes until it has sealed the leak. It may take about 24 hours to for the glue to dry completely, but it may be dry enough to use the bike in about 5 minutes.     {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/6\/6a\/Patch-a-Bicycle-Tube-Step-7Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\/v4-459px-Patch-a-Bicycle-Tube-Step-7Bullet1-Version-2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/6\/6a\/Patch-a-Bicycle-Tube-Step-7Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\/aid301936-v4-728px-Patch-a-Bicycle-Tube-Step-7Bullet1-Version-2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":306,"bigWidth":"728","bigHeight":"485","licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a rel=\"nofollow\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fair_use\">Fair Use<\/a> (screenshot)<br>\n<\/p><\/div>"}  Non-glue patches (sometimes called "self-adhesive" patches): Simply remove the patch from its wrapper and lay the patch over the sanded puncture like a sticker. Press down firmly to secure and, if necessary, wait until dry before riding. Keep in mind that these patches might not work as well as the glue type.    {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/a\/a8\/Patch-a-Bicycle-Tube-Step-7Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\/v4-459px-Patch-a-Bicycle-Tube-Step-7Bullet2-Version-2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/a\/a8\/Patch-a-Bicycle-Tube-Step-7Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\/aid301936-v4-728px-Patch-a-Bicycle-Tube-Step-7Bullet2-Version-2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":306,"bigWidth":"728","bigHeight":"485","licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a rel=\"nofollow\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fair_use\">Fair Use<\/a> (screenshot)<br>\n<\/p><\/div>"} In situations where you have a severely damaged tube, you may want to avoid wasting your patch by opting to simply replace the entire tube instead. Tubes that have serious damage may not stay inflated long enough with the patch to make using it worth it, making full-on replacement a better choice. Luckily, if you can get your hands on a new tube, the process of replacing the old one isn't hard. Below are certain types of tube damage which may signal that it's better to forego a patch:  Multiple holes, especially along the rim, such as snakebite holes Large tears (if the hole is 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) or larger it cannot be patched) Air leaking even after patch is applied, such as from a valve stem (valve stems cannot be patched, so this would require a new tube)
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Remove any foreign objects from the hole. Sand around the hole if necessary. Apply the patch. Know when replacing the tube is a smarter choice.

If you are leveling a small area and it is mostly level, you probably will not need to remove the grass. However, if you have a large area and a lot of leveling to do, removing the grass will be much easier. A simple shovel is all that's necessary for a reasonable amount of space. Depending on how much ground you have to cover and what will be going on the ground afterwards, you'll need to level your land with differing mixtures of soil, sand, and compost/manure fertilizer. If you want to grow grass in this area, the cover will need to be nutrient rich. If you want to level for a pool or shed, soil and sand will do just fine. Use a garden rake to spread the material evenly, checking using your level and a measuring tape to make sure it's staying level. If you have a large area to cover, there are small versions of ground moving equipment that you can rent from your local hardware store. They will be able to advise you on what will work best for your property. If you are leveling a small area, you can tamp the soil using your foot and the bottom of your rake. If you are leveling a large area, or it is especially important to keep the ground level (such as if you are building a structure), get a tamper or plate compactor to compact the soil. Give the soil plenty of time to settle. It needs at least 48 hours, if not several days or weeks to settle properly. Mist the area with water if your area does not get rainfall during that time.
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One-sentence summary --
Remove the grass if necessary. Add your ground cover. Spread the topsoil. Tamp the soil. Let it settle.