Write an article based on this "Find a location to fill out your application. Fill out your application. Submit your application. Go to an early voting center to register and vote at the same time."
article: You can complete and submit your voter registration application at various locations around the state of Maryland. the State Board of Elections website has a complete list of locations. Pick a location that is convenient for you. Locations where you can fill out and submit your your application include:  Your local board of elections The State Board of Elections The Department of Health and Mental Hygiene The Department of Social Services Your local MVA The Offices on Aging The MTA Paratransit Certification Office All colleges Military recruitment offices Marriage license offices When you arrive at the location you want to register to vote, ask for a registration application. The application will be identical to the one you would fill out if you were sending it through the mail. Therefore, it will be filled out the same way with the same information. When you are finished filling out your application, hand it to the responsible employee where you are. The employee will make sure the application gets where it needs to be. As with any registration application you submit online or through the mail, you must generally register at least 21 days prior to any election. However, if you are unable to register in a timely manner, you may be able to register, in person, during "early voting." To register to vote at an early voting location, go to the location located in the county where you live and bring a document that proves where you live (e.g., a driver's license, ID, paycheck, utility bill). With that information in hand, you will be able to register at the polls.

Write an article based on this "Vacuum on the ground floor. Peel back shingles that obstruct the vent on the roof. Remove the guard to the dryer vent on the roof. Use a vent brush to clean the surface. Put the vent brush inside the vent. Reinstall the guard."
article: You will need to use a vacuum to clean out the length of the vent and, unless you have access to an industrial vacuum, it is unlikely that you’ll be able to do this from the roof. Before climbing up to the roof, get behind the dryer to vacuum out the vent.  There should be clamps that connect the exhaust pipe of the dryer to the vent. Use a screwdriver to release these so that you can vacuum. You can put the tube of the vacuum directly up the vent. However, there are special attachments that can be clamped onto the end of the tube that are designed to pick up lint from a vent. These can help vacuum the vent. Once you have safely ascended onto the roof, examine the area around the vent guard. If any shingles are covering the vent, or the screws that attach to the guard, peel back the shingles. If they are held in place with tar, use a utility knife to cut around the shingles and secure access to the vent. When you get on the roof, you should find that the vent is covered by a guard. If you can, remove it. You might find that there are gobs of lint stuck on in. You can remove some of this with your hands.  If the guard is secured in place by nails, place a cat’s paw pry bar under the head of the nail and hit the pry bar with a hammer to release the nails. After you have removed the nails, hold on to them so that you can reinstall them later.  After the nails have been removed, pull up on the guard to remove it. You might need to twist it as you pull to dislodge it. You can purchase a vent trap cleaner separately or a kit with attachments to your vacuum. Use it to gently remove lint from the guard and other exterior surfaces. Push the brush inside the vent and then twist it. This will get lint trapped in the brush. Then pull the brush out to remove the lint. Repeat until you are no longer picking up lint. Because much of the lint concentrates near the ends of the vent tube, this basic cleaning and the vacuuming on the ground floor should remove most of the lint.  If you can see significant amounts of lint that remain beyond your reach, call a professional. If you removed the guard, put it back into place. Be sure that it is intact so that no animals or debris can enter the vent. If you find that the guard is not intact, call a professional to have it replaced. Debris falling into the vent could seriously compromise your dryer.

Write an article based on this "Grab muriatic acid or another suitable etching acid. Clear the concrete of any obstructions. Use degreaser for oil or grease. Hose down the entire area."
article:
Before you start your etching, you'll want to make sure you have enough of a suitable acid to complete your project — having to run out to the hardware store in the middle of your etching project is a serious pain. Muriatic acid (also called hydrochloric acid) is the most common type of acid used for this project. It's difficult to say exactly how much acid any given project will need because the acid is usually sold in varying strengths. In very general terms, 1⁄4 gallon (0.9 L) of acid (when properly diluted) will cover about 50-70 square feet of concrete (about 4.5-6.5 square meters).  Other suitable acids for etching include phosphoric acid and sulfamic acid. The latter is an especially good choice for first-timers because it is much less caustic and dangerous than the other acids.  If you're unsure of whether you have the right type of acid, check the label on its packaging — most suitable products will mention that they can be used for concrete etching purposes. To begin, remove any any all furniture, vehicles, and other obstructions from the area you intend to treat. Etching acids can permanently damage common objects if allowed to remain in contact with them for even short periods of time, so have them well out of the way by the time you start your project. You'll also want to give the area a good sweeping to remove accumulated dust, dirt, or grime. The acid needs to be able to touch every part of the concrete's surface to react properly with it. Even small pieces of debris can interfere with the reaction, potentially causing an uneven etching. If you're etching concrete in your garage or on your driveway, there's a chance that there may be oil or grease stains on the driveway from your vehicle. Etching acids can't penetrate through oily substances, which means that any concrete under an oil stain will go un-etched. To remove oil and grease stains, try scrubbing with a commercial degreasing product — these are available from most home improvement stores for fairly cheap. Alternatively, try using ordinary laundry detergent. Most detergents are formulated to dissolve oil and grease, making them perfect for degreasing your concrete surface. When your concrete is perfectly clean and clear, use a hose with a sprayer attachment to wet the entire surface of the concrete. Spread the water evenly across the surface until all of the concrete is wet but no standing water remains. The concrete should stay at this level of wetness until the acid is applied. If you'll be etching up to any adjacent walls or other surfaces, be sure to also wet the bottom inch or so to minimize the possibility of direct contact with  the acid.