In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Your dog's crate should be just large enough for the dog to stand up in, turn around, and lie down comfortably.  One of the reasons that crate-training is effective for housebreaking a dog is that dogs will not eliminate waste where they sleep.  If the crate is too large, the dog may use one end for sleeping, and use the other as a latrine.   If your puppy is still growing, you can buy a crate that will accommodate his adult size, and block off part of it with a divider (sold with some crates) to fill up the extra space. Many humane societies and some veterinarian's offices rent crates, so you can get one that is the appropriate size for your puppy and trade up as the animal grows. If you plan to use the crate for air travel, be sure to choose one that is approved by the FAA or your airline of choice. There are many different kinds of crates you can buy, including wire, plastic, and soft-sided.  Choose the best crate for your dog and circumstances.  Wire crates are the most inexpensive and breathable, and usually come with dividers for walling off part of the crate to accommodate a growing puppy. Plastic crates feel cozier to most dogs, and can usually be used for air travel. However, they aren't the best choice in hot weather as dogs that get hot easily. Soft-sided crates are lightweight and portable, however many dogs can chew their way out of them, and they can be difficult to clean. When you begin crate training, it is best to put the crate in a place where you and your family spend a lot of time during the day, like the kitchen or living room.  Dogs are social animals, and like to feel that they are part of the pack.  It is important not to put the crate in an isolated location, like the basement or garage. The crate should never feel like an isolating punishment for your dog.  You should plan to move the crate to your bedroom at night when training a puppy, so you can take the puppy out when it needs to go to the bathroom. Some dog owners simply set up two crates, one in the living area of their homes, and one in the bedroom. Place a blanket or towel on the bottom of the crate for the dog to sleep on. If you are using a mesh or wire crate, you can also drape a breathable blanket or towel over the top of the crate to create a cozier, more den-like atmosphere that  may help your dog feel more secure. Some dogs and puppies might mistake the bedding for something to chew on, or as bathroom material. If this is the case, remove the bedding and clean the cage, and proceed without bedding.  You can add it back in later as your dog matures. As you set up the crate, your dog may come over to investigate it.  Say positive things about the crate to show your enthusiasm for it, and allow your dog to explore.  However, you should not try to force your dog into the crate or close the door right away if he goes inside.  Getting used to the crate takes time and patience, and the more excited you seem about the crate, the more excited your dog will become.
Summary: Choose an appropriately-sized crate. Choose the right kind of crate. Find a good spot for the crate. Make the crate comfortable for your dog. Be enthusiastic about the crate.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Traditionally, pet rabbits have often been kept outside in a pen or “hutch.”  And, since you see wild bunnies hopping around all the time, you may assume that your pet will do fine outside as well.  But there are many factors to consider.  Some organizations now strongly urge that you keep house rabbits indoors at all times.  Domesticated rabbits have lost the instincts and skills that keep their wild companions alive, and are not creatures that are suited to isolation, extreme conditions, or surprises (from predators or otherwise).  Others contend that it is acceptable to keep rabbits outside during the daytime, when the risk of predators is lower.  Domesticated rabbits can die of shock from the mere sight of a predator, so even a secure enclosure may not keep your bunny safe from a raccoon, fox, or neighborhood cat.  Still others still say that, with proper preparation and care, full-time outdoor living is fine.  As your rabbit’s caretaker, the decision is yours. Bugs Bunny may have done fine with a single-veggie diet, but real rabbits require lots of hay and diet diversity.  The staple of your rabbit’s diet should be hay, which should be available at your pet supply store.  This should make up about 75% of its diet.  Pelleted food should also be a part of your rabbit's diet. Your rabbit should get 1 ounce of hay-based feed per 1 pound of their body weight once a day. Each day, add in some leafy greens and a handful of rabbit pellets, which offer important nutrients.  Add various vegetables (yes, including carrots) and some fruits to the mix. A rabbit will typically establish 1 or 2 litter areas in its enclosure (let the rabbit decide where, and then place a bunny litter box there), but keeping the area clean in general is important for health and happiness.  Do some general clean-up daily, removing soiled straw, etc.  Perform a more thorough cleaning at least every 1 to 2 months, removing and replacing bedding materials and the like.  Soiled and/or damp bedding will encourage flies, which can bring on maggots that can infest your rabbit and cause “fly strike,” a potentially fatal illness. Wild rabbits are sociable creatures, and that quality has not been bred out of their domesticated cousins.  So, if you’re going to have a pet rabbit, spend time with it, and consider giving it a friend or two.  Check on your rabbit at least once or twice a day, and spend some time with it.  Hold it, or let it roam free a bit (in your bathroom, for instance, or an outdoor “rabbit run” enclosure). Many rabbits prefer a companion, so think about adding another compatible bunny — ideally  of similar size and age.  Make sure they are spayed or neutered, especially if you have boy and girl bunnies together — you know what they say about rabbits! Rabbits are meant to be active creatures, running and hopping about, and need at least 3 hours of "free range" time per day for exercise.  "Free range," however, does not mean loose and unsupervised in the yard, unless you want your bunny pal to become lunch for your neighbor's cat.  Your rabbit must either be supervised or placed in a secure "bunny run" that allows plenty of room for horizontal and vertical movement. Rabbits are also curious, sociable, and intelligent, and thus benefit from play time (and so will you!).  Games like "bunny bowling" (the rabbit knocking over plastic pins), "fetch" (with you doing the fetching!), and "cardboard castle" (which is inevitably destroyed) are among the many play options.  Rabbits enjoy playing with paper, cardboard, hard plastic, or untreated wood toys as well.  Avoid treated wood and some varieties such as cherry, redwood, and peach, as these may be toxic.
Summary:
Decide if your rabbit should stay outdoors at all. Feed your rabbit more than carrots. Keep its home clean. Don’t leave your rabbit lonely. Give your rabbit daily exercise and play time.