INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Don’t just ask any coworker. Ensure they are interested by reading their body language. If they are giving you signals that they may be interested in you, then proceed.  These signals can be direct, like maintaining eye contact, smiling, or touching you while they speak. Or, they can be indirect, like touching their hair, neck, or face while talking to you. If they adopt closed body language, for example, turning away from you, avoiding eye contact, or any contact at all, then chances are they are not interested. If you are truly unsure if your coworker is interested, do not fret. You can try more direct contact like asking for their phone number to see how they react. Or, you could try telling them a joke to see if they laugh, and perhaps a conversation could start from there. Make your advances confidential. This will gain your coworker’s trust and increase your rate of success. Do not make any big moves at the office, like being overly flirty, or suggesting you do something during work hours or at the office. This will likely scare them away. Before you attempt to ask them, get to know them first. Try to find things you have in common with your coworker besides work.   Ask them about their hobbies or what they like to do on the weekend. Ask them what their favorite foods are, or ask them about the different places they have traveled to or would like to travel to.

SUMMARY: Ensure your coworker is interested. Be discreet. Move slowly.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: The Apple TV comes with the Apple TV itself, along with a power cord and a remote. You can only connect the Apple TV to an HDTV, and you'll need an HDMI cable to do so. The HDMI cable doesn't come with the Apple TV, but you can pick one up at an electronics store or online for cheap. When it comes to HDMI cables, there isn't much practical difference between a $10 cable and an $80 cable. You will also need to be able to connect the Apple TV to your network, either via Wi-Fi or by using Ethernet cable.  The first generation Apple TVs could connect via component (five-prong) cables, but this is no longer possible with newer versions of the hardware.  If you want to connect your Apple TV to your home theater system, you'll need an optical digital audio (S/PDIF) cable. Make sure that none of the cords will be stretched tight by the connection. You should also make sure that the Apple TV has room to breathe around it, as it can get warm during operation. If you're using a wired connection to your network router, make sure that you'll be able to reach it with the Ethernet cable. You can find the HDMI ports on the back or side of your HDTV, or on the back of your home theater receiver. Your HDTV may have one or more HDMI ports. Some older HDTVs may not have HDMI ports. Make note of the label for the HDMI port that you connect the Apple TV to. This will help you select the correct input when you turn on your TV. To be extra cautious, make sure it's plugged into a surge protector to protect against power surges. If you're connecting to your network via Ethernet, plug the cable into the back of the Apple TV and then into your router or network switch. If you're connecting via Wi-Fi, you don't need to worry about this. Normally the Apple TV will send audio through the HDMI cable to the TV, but if you use an audio receiver you can connect the Apple TV to it with an optical digital audio (S/PDIF) cable. Connect the cable to the back of the Apple TV and then into the proper port on your receiver or TV.

SUMMARY: Gather your pieces. Setup your Apple TV where it can reach the TV and an outlet. Connect the Apple TV to the HDTV or home theater receiver via HDMI. Connect the power cable to the Apple TV and plug it into a socket. Connect the Ethernet cable (if applicable). Connect the Apple TV to your home theater (optional).


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Turn the reel crank clockwise (away from you) until the lure is hanging about 1 foot (0.30 m) from the end of the rod. This will put the line in the right position for a good, strong cast. If you have a sinker or bobber attached to the line, make sure it’s 12–15 inches (30–38 cm) from the end of the rod rather than your bait. Otherwise, your line will be too short, which will cause your cast to lose momentum. The handles of most spincasting rods have a recessed seat with a trigger-like projection on the underside. Wrap your index finger around this projection to ensure that your grip is secure.  You have the option to hold the rod in either your right or left hand. Most fishermen prefer to cast spincasting gear with their dominant hand. If you want to cast and reel with the same hand, you’ll need to change hands after your cast. Move the thumb of your casting hand up until the pad rests over the button. Then, push down on the button firmly. Depressing the reel button disengages the spooled line, which will allow it to go flying when you start the casting motion. The line may drop when you press the button, but it shouldn’t travel far. If it drops more than 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm), it means you may not have held the button firmly enough. Reel it in and try again. Let the movement come from your elbow rather than your shoulder—that way, you’ll get a better snap when you complete your cast. Once the hand of your casting arm is in position in front of your face, the rod itself should either be vertical or point behind you just slightly.  Be sure to keep the handle of the rod above waist level at all times. Avoid raising your arm too high. Doing so could cause you to accidentally hook a nearby object or some part of your clothing. It can also put unnecessary strain on your shoulder joint, which will catch up to you quickly after a long day out on the water. In one fluid motion, reverse the direction of your casting hand, holding the handle of the rod a full arm’s length in front of your face. Bring the tip of the rod to a stop at roughly a 30-degree angle, or what’s commonly known as the “10 o’clock” position. The key to a good cast is to make your movements as smooth and effortless as possible. Jerking or being overly forceful with the rod will only throw off your accuracy and cause you to lose distance. As you do, the momentum of the rod will propel your bait or lure forward toward your target area. The line will then continue to unspool rapidly until you press the reel button again or the bait or lure hits the water.  If your bait or lure simply plops into the water in front of you, you probably released the button too late. If it flies upward in a loose arc, you may have let go too soon.  It may be a little tricky at first to properly time your cast with your release. Don’t worry—you'll start getting the hang of it after a few attempts. Pressing the button a second time will slow the flight of your bait, causing it to drift down nice and easy where you want it to land. From there, it will just be a matter of patience as you kick back and wait for the tell-tale tug of a bite!  Alternatively, you can re-engage the line locking mechanism by turning the reel crack clockwise until you feel a click.  At this point, you can transfer the rod to your opposite hand if you feel more comfortable reeling with your dominant hand.

SUMMARY:
Reel in the line so your lure is 12–15 inches (30–38 cm) from the rod tip. Grip the handle of the rod with your thumb just below the reel button. Press and hold the button on the back of the reel. Raise your casting arm until your hand is in front of your face. Sweep the rod forward quickly. Release the reel button as the rod comes to eye level. Press the reel button again when your bait or lure reaches your target.