Find an area that is surrounded by some cover (trees, grass, etc.), but still provides some open water. Ducks find locations like that irresistible. A location that is not whipped by wind will make it easier to set up your decoys and to hunt. Look for a flooded forest or bottomland, then find a break within in it. Ducks will be attracted to the cover provided by the trees, and go to the open break to access the water. Seek out a low-lying field where ducks gather in a puddle. If possible, try to find one with some grass or other vegetation to help mask your blind. Set up half of your decoys off of the bank, upwind. Scatter the remaining ducks along the banks, about 25 yards (23 m) from your blind. Take a shovel and break a hole into ice covering a pond. Push the broken pieces under the ice sheet, or remove them. Ducks will be suspicious if they see pieces of broken ice laying around. Set your decoys up in and along the hole you created. Don’t worry so much about finding the perfect feeding area. It’s much more important that ducks can see your spread when they’re flying overhead. This means keeping your decoys out in the open, not obscured by trees or grasses. If you're a beginner, make things easy and just purchase a pre-made duck blind from a sporting goods store. These typically set up much like a tent. If you're more experienced, you can build your own duck blind from piping, camouflage netting, and branches and/or grass from your hunting site. Make sure to set up your blind:  Set up your blind in an area that will provide some cover, if possible. Look for some tall grass or shrubbery, as a good place to set up. Close enough to where you expect ducks to land that you can easily see and shoot them, but not so close that they'll be easily spooked by every tiny movement or sound you make.
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One-sentence summary -- Look for a small river or reservoir to hunt dabble ducks. Find an opening among the trees if you're hunting in a wooded area. Set up in a field if you want to hunt puddle ducks. Create a hole in ice for your ducks if the pond is frozen over. Pick a visible spot, wherever you hunt. Put your duck blind in place, once your spot is chosen.

Q: You will see signs of aphids and caterpillars, pests that can destroy your petunias. You will want to get rid of them so that the petunias will keep thriving.  If you see that you have aphids make sure to get rid of them by spraying the petunias with a strong blast of water. Keep doing this until the aphids are gone. Watch for small black droppings and holes in leaves and buds which may indicate caterpillars are after your petunias. Treat with environmentally friendly insecticide. Sometimes the new flowers will wilt before they actually bloom. When this happens it's because you aren't watering them evenly. Allow the soil to dry out and water thoroughly. Make sure that you're watering at the base of the plant and not on the plant itself. There isn't a whole lot that you can do about diseases like soft rot and mold. However, if you live in a rainy area, you might try planting the rain-resistant multiflora, rather than one of the other petunia kinds. It's super important that you don't over-water. This can lead to problems with soft rot and mold.
A: Control the pests in your garden. Water evenly. Avoid petunia diseases.

Article: After launching the app, play with a Facebook friend by tapping on "Friends Challenge." Swipe right and tap on "New Challenge" to create a new match. Scroll through your friends list and select the one you want to play with. A request will be sent to him through Facebook. Once your friend accepts your game request, you can start playing with him or her.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Select the "Friends Challenge" option. Create a challenge. Play the game.

Article: Use a straight razor blade or a craft knife to remove any threading that may be surrounding the rod guide. If it’s difficult to remove using just a blade, then try heating the area for 3-4 seconds with a lighter to loosen any of the adhesives. Peel off the tape and unwind the threading until the old, broken guide comes off of the rod.  Rod guides are the circular metal pieces along the length of the rod that help keep your line straight. Be careful not to heat the rod for too long since it could cause damage to it. Don’t cut into the rod with your razor, or else you could damage it and make it weaker. Use 120- or 220-grit sandpaper to get rid of any leftover adhesive and to add tooth to the rod. Rub all the way around the rod on the spot where you want to place the new guide. Then, use your sandpaper on the foot of the guide, which is the flat part that rests against the fishing rod. You can buy new fishing guides at sporting good stores. Make sure the new guide is the same size and style as the other guides on your fishing rod or else your line may snag or get tangled. Press the foot of the new guide onto the rod so it’s in line with the other guides. Rip off a thin piece of masking tape and wrap it around the foot so it’s held in place. That way, you don’t need to keep holding it in place while you wrap it. You can also use super glue, but it will be difficult to move or readjust once the glue is set. Any type of thread will work for wrapping your guide onto the rod. Loop your threading around the rod so it’s  1⁄2–3⁄4 inch (1.3–1.9 cm) from the guide’s foot on the side closest to the handle. Maintain tension on the loop and start tightly winding the thread around the rod. Make sure the thread doesn’t overlap with loops you’ve already made and that they are flush with one another. Take the piece of tape off of the foot you’ve wrapped everything below it. When your wrapping is 1⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) from the circular part of the guide, stop winding the thread around the pole. Cut a separate piece of thread so it’s about 6 inches (15 cm) long and fold it in half to form a loop. Lay the second piece of thread on top of your wrapping so the loop sticks out near your guide. If you don’t have any other thread, you can also use a thin fishing line instead. Once the looped piece of thread is on top of the wrapping, continue spinning your thread around the foot of the guide. Continue wrapping the final 1⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) of the guide so the middle of the looped piece is held against the rod. Once you reach the end of your wrapping, cut the end of the thread you used to wrap and pull it through the middle of the loop. Pull the other end of the looped piece down and away from the guide to pull the thread underneath the wrapping. This way, the wrapping is secured to the rod without having to tie a knot. If you don’t want to use a looped piece of thread, you can also try tying a knot in the threading, but it may not be as strong and it could be more difficult. Mix the 2 parts of the epoxy in a small dish with a paintbrush until they are thoroughly combined. Paint a thin layer of the epoxy over your threading so it hardens and stays in place. Keep the rod horizontal and let it dry overnight before you try using your rod again. Work quickly with the epoxy since it will quickly start to dry and harden once you mix it.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Cut the tape or thread around the broken guide with a razor blade. Sand the rod and foot of the new guide to get better adhesion. Tape the new guide onto the rod so it’s aligned. Wrap the foot of the guide with thread to hold it in place. Place a looped piece of thread over the wrap when there’s 1⁄8 in (0.32 cm) left. Wrap the final 1⁄8 in (0.32 cm) over the second piece of thread. Feed the thread through the looped piece and pull it tight. Paint 2-part epoxy onto the thread and let it dry.