Sometimes you can earn your bachelor's in biochemistry, but not all 4-year colleges and universities offer these specialized degrees. Take advanced courses beyond the minimum needed for the degree and major. You will do yourself a huge favor by getting a head start and learning things you will eventually need to know sooner rather than later.  If biochemistry isn’t offered at your university, aim for a degree in biology, chemistry, or physics. Make sure to take classes like General Chemistry, General Physics, Introduction to Biology, Introduction to Environmental Science, Anatomy and Physiology, Microbiology, Biochemistry, and Organic Chemistry. Much of the work you’ll do as a biochemist will involve doing some type of research in a lab, so it’s a good idea to get some experience early on if possible. Find out if your university allows undergrads to be employed as student laboratory assistants. Being a lab assistant will look great on your résumé and will work in your favor when you are applying to graduate programs. Doing research early is critical to ensure career satisfaction, as research is a core component of being a biochemist. Moreover, research experience will greatly increase your chances of acceptance into graduate schools. Seek out senior biochemistry professors and express your career interest and desire to do research. It helps to take a look at their CV and research interests before you speak with them. Ask them if they have any opportunities available for you to work with them. While you are taking science courses and working toward your undergraduate degree, you also need to be gaining experience in the field of biochemistry. One of the best ways to do so is to apply for summer internships, work study programs for students in the Science department, or any other kind of job that will get you some experience to put on your CV.
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One-sentence summary -- Choose your major. Apply to be a lab assistant. Do outside research. Gain more experience in the field.

Q: Whether shadow-boxing or using a speed bag or heavy bag, new boxers must concentrate on using proper form when unleashing a blow. Using proper form means that you’ll need to develop a good sense of balance so that you’re not thrown off balance by throwing a punch. Also, practice keeping your hands in front of your face and returning to this defensive position after throwing a punch.  Before punching, keep your hands close to your face and your elbows tight against your body. Put your weight into the punches you throw, and follow through with each punch. This will help you land punches effectively and accurately on your opponent’s head or torso. at your opponent to keep them at a distance. Jabbing is a basic punch which you’ll usually do with your weaker front hand. The jab is a short punch. To jab, drive your fist straight into your opponent’s face or torso. To maximize the effectiveness of the jab, professional boxers twist their arm and wrist just before making contact with their opponent. As opposed to a jab, which is thrown straight in front of the body, deliver a cross punch by jabbing your dominant hand in a slightly upward motion across your body. If your opponent throws a left jab at you, they’ll leave themself open for your right hook. Keep your weight on the balls of your feet, and aim your punch across your body towards the right side of your opponent’s torso or face.  Use the cross on its own to counter a jab, or put the jab and cross together for a 1-2 combo. The shoulder helps power the cross punch. Also pay attention to your feet when throwing a cross. As you throw the punch, move your body weight from your rear foot up to your front foot. The hook can be delivered to the head or body of the opponent. Lean your body to the side that you plan to hit from, and circle your arm around to punch the opponent in the unprotected side of their head or body. The hook is often used in combination with other punches.  The hook’s sweeping delivery is its chief drawback, as it can leave you susceptible to a counterpunch. So, if you and your opponent are exchanging swift jabs back and forth, this isn’t the time to wind up for a hook. The uppercut is an upward blow unleashed by either hand that is highly effective when in close quarters. Throw an uppercut when you’re close to your opponent’s body. To uppercut, lower your arm to about waist-height, then swing it upward in an explosive burst. Aim to his your opponent squarely on their chin. Don’t try to throw an uppercut form more than 1 foot (0.30 m) away, or you may miss and leave yourself open to a counter-attack to your body. After they become adept at delivering a variety of punches, fighters usually develop combinations, in which they release a devastating flurry of blows on their opponent. The first combination most boxers learn is the 1-2 combo (a jab followed by a cross). Try putting together different combos of your own. Rely on building combos around punches that you feel good throwing. Another effective combo adds a hook to the 1-2 combo.  If you're right-handed, this would be a left jab followed by a right cross and ending with a left hook.
A: Practice punching on a bag to develop proper form. Jab Throw a cross punch to counter punch a jab. Throw a hook when you have time for a slower, powerful punch. Use an uppercut to seriously damage your opponent. Combine punches to hit an opponent multiple times in a row.

Article: Drawing pencils, erasers, sketchbook, pastels, paint, an easel... whatever you think you will need for your area of expertise. New supplies and mediums can be encouraging. Try beginner sets of artist grade supplies, because they are often easier to use than the cheaper, student grade supplies.  Begin with an inexpensive sketchbook with lots of pages, and a sketching set that includes kneaded putty eraser and different grades of graphite pencils. It may also include charcoal pencils, charcoal sticks, graphite sticks and brown, gray, or reddish sketching sticks. All these tools are useful, and the supplies are cheaper in bundled sets than bought individually. "H" and 2H, 4H, etc are "hard" pencils that sharpen to a fine point, and give a very light mark, easily covered by paint or inking. They're for design. "F" is a "fine" pencil, a little harder than an HB, which is a normal No. 2 pencil, and middle hardness. "B" means black, and each successive degree of B pencil is softer, blacker, and smudgier. 2B is a good sketch pencil, 4B is a great one that gives good shading, and 6B or higher is almost like using charcoal, for ease of smudging and shading. This includes books on specific subjects, like how to draw animals, how to draw horses, how to draw seascapes, etc. Whatever you like most or get interested in. Try to accomplish at least one drawing a day. You can even frame them and put them up on your walls, to inspire you to keep going through the next day. You can also check out drawing books from your local library, and find out which one inspires you the most before buying it. Work through each of the exercises in turn, rather than trying to do everything in the book at once.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Buy all of the necessary supplies. Purchase some how-to drawing books.