Article: There isn't really a "best" coin for tossing. It's really about personal preference and hand size. Newer coins with more defined markings can make it easier to call your toss. On newer coins you can feel the faces and edges a bit better. If you are flipping the coin as part of a trick, it's good to have a specific coin in mind. Not necessarily because it will make any difference, but because it gives you something to talk about as part of your misdirection.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Choose the right coin.

Problem: Article: This is the most popular way of opening a geode due to its ease and convenience. Place your chisel in the middle of the rock and lightly use your hammer to make small indentations around the circumference of the rock. Keep chiseling in a circle around the rock until you see a crack form, and then follow the crack with your chisel and hammer until it cracks open. If you have a small geode and don't care about a clean break, put the geode in a sock and hammer away at it. This method is great for kids and keeps the geode pieces from flying everywhere. If you don't have any tools, you can use another rock to open your geode. Smash your geode with a heavier rock, being careful not to do it too hard or your geode could splinter into many tiny pieces. If you want a very clean cut, you can saw your geode in half with a saw or pipe cutter. These are usually more expensive tools, and you won't be able to use them in the field. Pipe cutters have a chain that you can wrap around the geode to keep it in place while you work. If you take your geode to a small rock store or similar professional, they'll be able to open your geode with an even cut. Most times they will charge a small fee.
Summary: Use a hammer and chisel to open the geode on site. Put your geode in a sock before hammering it to avoid a mess. Use a heavier rock to open your geode on site. Use a saw or pipe cutter once you've returned home. Take your geode to a professional for a clean cut.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Your warm (repeat: warm) shower or bath hydrates your skin, and it prepares your skin for shaving with a reduced risk of skin irritation. The softer your hair is, the easier it is to shave off cleanly.  Let your hairs soften and stand up from the warm water. The moisture and steam from your bath or shower cause your hairs to become soft and to raise against your skin. Softer hairs that are raised against your skin shave much more smoothly than areas that are not prepared for shaving. Hold a warm, wet washcloth to the area for at least 5 minutes if you don't have the time or resources to shower. Many people are guilty of skipping this super-imperative step. In fact, you should be doing it both before and after you shave. It may seem like a waste of time, but your skin will be smoother and less prone to redness and irritation. When you exfoliate before, it aligns your hairs for a uniform shave and sweeps away the dead skin, allowing for a closer shave. When you do it after, it unclogs your pores (from the shaving and creams, etc.) and prevents ingrown hairs (that cause razor bumps). More on the specifics of creams and the like later, but using something to hydrate your skin is AN ABSOLUTE MUST. Do you feel like you're being yelled at? GOOD! ALWAYS USE SHAVING CREAM. Crystal clear, right? Do not ever shave with just water. Soap and water is okay, but a cream designed especially for sensitive, to-be-shaved skin is best. And when you shave the same area twice, be sure to reapply. Use razor strokes that go downward. Applying pressure with your razor against the grain of your hair causes irritation and bumps. Generally, this means down. Yep, shaving against the grain allows for a closer shave, sure. If that's what you want, go for it. But the likelihood of your skin getting irritated increases exponentially when you do so. The two sort of work in tandem, actually. When your stroke is short, you tend to be lighter on your skin. If the stroke is too long, you feel as if the razor dulls and you need more pressure to combat that. Resist! You'll also be washing in between strokes -- so the shorter the stroke, the easier you are on your razor. That's good for your wallet and your skin! Just how warm water will open up the pores, cold water will seal them off, cinching the deal. After the cold water rinse, pat the area dry. Don't rub! Rubbing is just an invitation for disaster. You did it well -- don't mess it up!

SUMMARY: Wait until after your warm bath or shower to shave. Exfoliate, exfoliate, exfoliate. Always use a shaving lubricant. Shave in the direction of your hair growth. Use short, light strokes. Rinse with cold water and pat dry.

Concrete cures best in temperatures above 50 °F (10 °C), so check the forecast for the next week. If you can expect warm temperatures, then now is the right time to pour the concrete.  Pouring in the spring or summer is ideal to avoid any unexpected cold weather. If there is a sudden cold snap after pouring the concrete, professionals usually protect the concrete by building a structure around the site and using a portable heater. This is an expensive option, but it’s the best choice to protect the concrete. While the concrete is curing, it can’t handle excessive weight. Let it dry for a full 24 hours before stepping on it to prevent damage to the surface.  If you’re water-curing the concrete, take extra care to avoid stepping on it while you re-wet the fabric. If the concrete is in an area with a lot of foot traffic, block the area off and hang signs warning about wet cement. Make sure any pedestrians will know they can't step on the area. Even if the concrete looks dry, it can't handle excessive weight until after it cures completely. If the concrete is in your driveway or a similar area that cars drive on, wait at least 10 days before driving or parking your car on it.  If you have a large vehicle like an RV or truck, wait 28 days before parking it on the concrete. Also wait 28 days if this is a commercial area with a lot of vehicle traffic, like a parking lot. The weight from multiple vehicles can cause the concrete to sink. Introducing new chemicals to the concrete before it’s completely hardened can interfere with the curing process. Wait a full month before applying any paints or stains to the concrete. If you do want to paint the concrete and used a curing compound, remember to get one that is nonreactive with paint.
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One-sentence summary --
Pour concrete when the temperature will be above 50 °F (10 °C) for at least 7 days. Wait 24 hours to walk on the concrete. Drive on the concrete only after 10 days have passed. Let the concrete harden for a full month before painting or staining it.