Q: There should be a clear path longer than 60 feet (18.29 meters) between the pitcher’s mound and home plate. The line from home plate through the pitcher’s mound to second base should run east-northeast to keep the sun out of the pitcher’s eyes. Measure the distance from the back of home plate to the front of the pitcher’s plate with a tape measurer. The pitcher’s plate is a rubber rectangle that is 24 in (610 mm) long. Align the middle of the pitcher’s plate with the middle of home plate. Use a transit level to take a reading from home plate and a reading from the pitcher’s plate. Fill in the area around the pitcher’s plate with a mixture of clay, sand, and dirt until it is 10 in (254 mm) taller than home plate. Then, place the pitcher’s plate firmly on top of the dirt.
A: Situate the pitcher's mound directly in line with home plate. Place the pitcher’s plate 60 ft 6 in (18.44 m) from the back of home plate. Ensure the pitcher’s plate is 10 in (254 mm) taller than home plate.

Article: If you live in a house that was built in the 1940s or before, your walls are probably made of plaster and lath. If your house was built more recently, however, your walls are likely made of drywall. It is important to find out what your wall is made of before you hang your mirror because using a drywall hanger on plaster can damage a plaster and lath wall’s surface.  Plaster and lath is harder, thicker, and more brittle than drywall. If you’re unsure what type of wall you have, try to push a pushpin into the wall. A pushpin will go right into drywall but not plaster. All fasteners have a maximum weight rating. Some fasteners are designed to hold heavy mirrors and picture frames and some are not. You can use a bathroom scale to weigh your mirror. If you’re using a bathroom scale, weigh yourself first and then weigh yourself as you’re holding the mirror. The difference will be the weight of your mirror. If you’re hanging a heavier mirror, you’ll want to find a stud in your wall to support it. If you have a wall made of drywall, you can use a stud finder to locate a stud in your wall. A stud finder, however, won’t work for a plaster and lath wall. To find a stud behind a plaster and lath wall, tie some string around a strong magnet. Then, holding the top end of the string, slowly move the magnet horizontally across the wall. The magnet should stick to the wall when it moves across a stud. The magnet you use will have to be strong, so simple magnets from your refrigerator probably won’t work. Lift your mirror up on your wall where you want it to hang. Then, use a pencil to make a short line where the center of the top edge of the mirror is on the wall. If you’re hanging a heavier mirror, have someone help you get the mirror into position. Many different fasteners exist, and they all have different maximum weight ratings, or the maximum weight they can hold up. These include screw-in drywall anchors, expanding plastic sleeves, picture frame hangers and nails, tap-in expanding anchors, toggle bolts, and anchor wire (monkey hooks). Hardware weight limits should be listed on the packages they come in. When hanging a mirror with wire, it is a good idea to use two fasteners instead of just one. Using two will prevent your mirror from moving in place and becoming lopsided. Using two fasteners will also reduce the likelihood that your mirror will fall. Take a small piece of wood approximately 12 inches (30 cm) long and mark its center. Center it under the top of the mirror and hold it up tight under the wire until the wire is taut. Use a tape measure to measure the distance from the top of the mirror to the top of the piece of wood. Then measure that same distance down from the mark you made on the wall and make a mark. This second mark indicates the future position of your hanging wire. Now, take the piece of wood and align its center with the second mark you made on the wall. Use a torpedo level to make sure the piece of wood is level. Then, use a pencil and mark on the wall the location of the upper right- and left-hand corners of the piece of wood. These marks will be where you put in your hooks.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Determine what type of material your wall is made of. Weigh your mirror so you know what type of fastener you’ll need. Find a stud in your wall if you’re hanging a heavy mirror. Mark where you want the top edge of the mirror on the wall. Choose a fastener with a weight rating above your mirror’s weight. Prevent the mirror from going askew by using two fasteners. Determine the position of the two fasteners with a block of wood. Make sure the mirror will be perfectly level with torpedo level.

Q: Mosquito larvae are very small, so make sure you purchase a small aquarium net designed to capture tiny aquatic life. Nets designed for brine shrimp will work perfectly. You can also use an eye dropper to capture individual or small groups of eggs or larvae.  Make sure to transfer the larvae or eggs into your aquarium quickly so they don’t die before your fish can eat them. Pouring your water container into your aquarium is not advised, as you may not want to introduce the algae and debris in the mosquito’s water to your tank. Most fish probably will not immediately eat the small egg “boats” but they will attack the “wrigglers” or larvae as they emerge from the eggs. This is the best way to ensure your mosquito larvae don’t grow into full grown pests in your backyard.  It’s okay if your fish eat the egg boats before they hatch. These eggs will usually hatch within 48 hours of being laid, so you may not find them very often. You are much more likely to encounter larvae than unhatched eggs because of how quickly eggs hatch. Mosquito larvae will come to the surface regularly to breath. Larvae will shed their skin as they grow, so you may find empty bits of larvae skin. Fish are unlikely to eat shed skin.  Larvae appear to have antennae which are actually siphon tubes used for breathing. Larvae that enters the pupa stage will look as though they have developed a head and will no longer feed on algae. These can be fed to fish, but should otherwise be washed down the drain as it is the last stage before flying. Even if you have more larvae than you can feed your fish, it’s important that you purge your developing larvae on a weekly basis. Depending on the environment, mosquito eggs can develop into full grown, flying pests in as little as four days or as long as two weeks.  To avoid cultivating a swarm of mosquitoes in your yard, purge any larvae your fish don’t eat by pouring the water down the drain. Pouring your water out in your yard may not prevent the larvae from becoming full grown mosquitoes. Your fish likely will not eat dead larvae, so if some do not survive you can simply discard them with the water as you change it each week. If all of the larvae is dying, there is an issue with the temperature or quality of the water.  If you used tap water, there may have still been some chlorine present. Chlorine will kill mosquito larvae. If your bucket received direct sunlight at some point of the day, it may be becoming too hot for larvae to survive in the water.
A:
Use an eye dropper or small net to catch your larvae. Place unhatched egg boats in your fish tank. Capture larvae “wrigglers” and place them in your fish tank. Harvest your larvae weekly. Dispose of dead larvae.