Problem: Article: First, peel and mince a fresh onion (or two, if needed) for a total of 1 cup’s worth (160 g). Then coat a large skillet with canola, grapeseed, or another neutral cooking oil. Set the skillet on a burner and turn the burner up to medium-high. Give it a couple of minutes to heat up. If you’re going to be making this a lot, consider using ⅔ cup (158 ml) of oil. Once your onion has cooked and flavored the oil, you can reuse the oil later on for extra flavor. Add your minced onion to the skillet. Then add ¼ teaspoon of salt and ½ teaspoon of sugar and stir them all together. Continue to stir periodically. Saute them for about ten minutes, or until the onion begins to brown. While your onion cooks, measure 16 ounces (454 g) of sour cream into a mixing bowl. Once your onion has browned, transfer it to the mixing bowl (or a fine strainer to drain first, in case you used a lot of oil). Mix the onion into the cream with a serving spoon, and you’re good to go.
Summary: Prep your onion and skillet. Saute your onion. Make your dip.

Problem: Article: to locate the studs behind your walls. Slide the stud finder across the wall until it indicates that it has detected a stud. Once you've found the first stud, mark it with an X at the height you decided on for your bullseye. You'll need to anchor your cabinet in 2 studs to make sure it's secure. You can either use the stud finder again or you can measure 16 inches (41 cm) from the first spot, since that is the standard width between studs. Mark this spot with a pencil as well. If you don’t have a stud finder or if there are no studs where you want to hang your board, you will need to use wall anchors to attach your cabinet to the wall. These are plastic or metal pieces which you place into the wall so the screws have something to attach to. Depending on the style of anchor you choose, you may have to drill a hole first, or they may be self-drilling. Most cabinets are made so that the bullseye will be located at the center of the cabinet. If this is the case, the mark you made to indicate your dartboard's height will be the center of your cabinet. Center the cabinet, then use your pencil again to mark where the pre-drilled screw holes are located. You can purchase a level at a hardware store, or you can download a levelling app on your smartphone. Simply place the level on the top of the cabinet and adjust the angle until the indicator on the level is in the middle. If you are using a laser level, attach it to the wall and hang the cabinet so the top is parallel to the laser line.
Summary: Use a stud finder Locate the next stud. Use wall anchors to secure your dartboard if you can't find studs. Center the cabinet over your studs at the bullseye mark. Use a level to make sure the cabinet hangs straight.

Problem: Article: Many recipes will ask you to make the sauce’s foundation and then simmer it for a certain amount of time. This will “reduce” the sauce. Essentially, this means to thicken the sauce’s consistency. When you reduce a sauce, the ingredients develop through a period of simmering into a thicker, richer, more flavorful substance.  The longer you simmer the sauce, the thicker it will become and the more it will “reduce.”  The most commonly reduced sauces are tomato sauce, Béchamel sauce, balsamic reduction sauce, red wine reduction sauce and most sauces that begin with meat drippings.  White sauces typically aren't reduced.
Summary: Follow the recipe instructions to start the sauce.

Problem: Article: You will need:  Backhoe Laser transit and grade pole 4" Sch. 40 PVC pipe(and fittings if needed) 4" ASTM D2729 perforated pipe 4"ASTM D3034 pipe and fittings 4" Sch. 40 vent caps and test caps PVC primer and glue Saw (either hand saw or cordless reciprocating saw) Hammer drill and bits(to go through wall if necessary) Hydraulic cement (to seal around pipe if going through wall) Shovel Inch-and-a-half washed stone (quantity depends on system size) Tape measures (regular and also at least a 100' tape) Septic fabric (cut roll to 3' long or so) Septic tank and risers (concrete, or plastic if allowed) Con-Seal (for concrete) or silicone caulk (for plastic) to seal risers Septic filter (ex. Zoeller 170 or similar) if required. distribution box (either concrete, or plastic, if running more than two laterals.) Excavate to at least 2 feet deep and drill a hole through the wall, or go deeper and go under the footing, whichever is desired, or necessary. Plan for the flow to go downhill from here, as this is exactly what a gravity fed system is all about. It does not use a mechanical means other than gravity to discharge the waste from the tank to the drain field. Pipe 4" Sch. 40 going a foot through the wall or under the footing, and to a minimum of five feet outside the building toward the tank. Set it level where it's going through the wall or under the footing, and from there run with about an 1/8" per foot of pitch (slope) toward the septic tank. Go further or all the way into the tank if required. If not, switch to 4" 3034 with the appropriate adapter and pipe toward the tank with 3034.  Be sure to put a test cap on the end going into the building. If going through the wall, seal around the hole with hydraulic cement, inside and out. Don't run too much pitch going out to the tank. If there's too much, the water runs away faster than the solids, and the solids may get left in the pipe. Also, there may not be enough pitch to get to the drain field, depending on the depth your drain field is, and how close it will be to the outlet of the tank. Use the laser transit and "shoot" the top of the pipe going out to the tank. Measure the distance from the top of the inlet, to the bottom of the tank. Add this (go up on the grade pole) plus 1 1/2" to the number you shot off the top of the pipe.  The grade pole is now set to the depth that you need. Proceed to use this to excavate the hole to the appropriate depth. Lay out and excavate your leech field as it has been determined by the test done in the permit process. When laying out and excavating, remember to maintain a positive flow between the tank and the drain field. This is required to hold the pipe steady. See your local health requirements for the size of embedment needed and the size of gravel. The perforated pipe in a gravity drain field has no slope end to end and has capped ends. All areas depending on the rules of the local health department will require a special filter fabric, newspaper, four inches of straw or untreated building paper to cover the drain rock before backfilling.
Summary:
Assemble the equipment and tools needed for excavation. Find where you want to go into the building relative to where you want to place the septic tank. Excavate a hole large enough to set the concrete aerobic tank below ground. Place (in most jurisdictions) "inch-and-a-half washed drain rock" from a nearby gravel pit around the pipe. Cover up the pipe and tank once you have a green tag from the health inspector.