In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Occasionally fungicidal sprays can burn and damage your plant leaves. Test each type of spray on a small area of your plant, such as 1 low leaf, before spraying your whole plant. Spray the leaf with enough spray that it runs off the leaf, and allow it to dry. If the leaf begins turning yellow or brown, this spray may be too harsh for this plant. Try different types of sprays on different leaves until you find a couple that work. Mildew can be a stubborn fungus that adapts and builds resistance to things that fight it. When you’ve found a couple sprays that work, alternate them so that the mildew doesn’t build a resistance to any of them. For example, use a baking soda spray 1 week and a milk spray or vinegar spray the next. When you begin a spray treatment regimen for powdery mildew, you will want to spray your infected plant in the morning to allow the sun to dry the treatment on the leaves. You may often see improvement after 1 treatment. Wait at least a week to apply another spray treatment, and do this only if you do not see improvement on your leaves from the first treatment. Before spraying your infected leaves, wipe them with a clean, dry cloth to get some of the mildew off first. This helps reduce the amount of mildew that runs off into the soil with your spray solution. Alternatively, rub infected leaves against each other to get some of the mildew off. Each time you use a homemade spray, spray each infected leaf generously enough that the spray starts to run off the leaf. Do not wipe the spray from the leaf, but allow the spray to run off and air dry. Chemical fungicides can be effective, but they can cause other problems with your garden as well. They can harm good organisms in the soil, as well as bees and other pollinating insects that are healthy for a thriving garden. They also can affect how safe it is to eat plants they are used on, so be sure to follow all packaging directions carefully if you’re using them on edible plants. Since organic fungicides can be made easily at home, it’s wise to try them first before resorting to chemical treatments.
Summary: Test each spray on your plant before using it. Alternate sprays so the mildew doesn’t build resistance. Spray infected plant areas in the morning no more than once per week. Wipe leaves with a clean cloth to partially remove mildew. Allow spray to run off the leaves. Use chemical fungicides with caution.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: If you are using a stem cutting, remove the lowest cluster of leaves. Strip them with the same, sterilized knife, leaving the lowest 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) of the stem bare. Don't remove remaining leaves higher up on the stem cutting. If buds are on your cutting, leave them on. Commercial rooting hormone powder may hasten the development of the cutting, and often includes an antifungal agent as well to prevent rot. This treatment is recommended for rotting cuttings and for older, "woody" stem cuttings, but is typically not necessary otherwise. Some gardeners report success using ground cinnamon as a cheaper alternative to antifungal treatment, sprinkling it onto the cut end. Keep the cutting on a paper towel away from direct sunlight, and check on the cut end regularly. The cut should dry out, making the new plant less susceptible to rot. Stem cuttings can be planted after one or two days of drying. Leaf cuttings undergo a more visible change, growing a "callous" over the cut surface. This can take anywhere from two to seven days. If a leaf shrivels significantly during this time, you may need to plant it early. This has a lower success rate, but the leaf may die if it dries out completely. While waiting for the cuttings to dry, fill a small pot with a fast-draining succulent or cactus potting mix. If you wish to make your own, mix together three parts potting soil, two parts sand, and one part perlite. Use coarse, salt-free, store-bought sand if possible, since hand-gathered sand may contain microorganisms or salts that could harm plants. Succulent plants thrive in pots that aren't too much bigger than the plant itself.  Pots that allow for about an inch or two of growing room should be fine while the cutting is getting started. The pot must have a drainage hole. Stems cuttings can be planted as usual, burying the stem until the lowest leaves are just above the soil, but not touching it. Buried leaves are more likely to rot, so if you have a leaf cutting, try just touching the cut end to the soil surface, propping the leaf up with pebbles. Succulents don’t need a lot of water, in general. Still, you’ll need to water cuttings every 2 to 3 days or so while they establish roots. Once the plants have started to build a root system, you can cut down to weekly watering or whenever the soil is dry.  Don’t be worried if the cuttings look like they’re drying out, at first. This means the plant is using its stored energy while it puts down new roots. If things work, you should start to see new growth in about 4 weeks.
Summary:
Strip leaves from the lower part of the stem. Dip the cut end in a rooting hormone (optional). Let the cutting dry out in a lightly shaded location. Prepare a succulent potting mix. Select an appropriately sized pot to plant your cutting. Plant the cutting. Water occasionally.