Q: Select a leave-in conditioner, which is more lightweight than a rinse-out conditioner. The goal of conditioner is to add moisture to your hair, make it smoother, and can make your hair look healthier. Find a conditioner that matches your hair needs (dry, color-treated, curly, etc). If you have synthetic braids, choose a conditioner with a protein in it. This can strengthen your natural hair. You can quickly mix up a lightweight moisturizer using ingredients that you probably already have on hand. Use whatever conditioner you usually use on your hair. This mixture will be easy to spray onto your hair every day. You'll need:  A spray bottle A measuring spoon A measuring cup Conditioner Water Glycerin Measure 1⁄2 cup (120 ml) of conditioner into the spray bottle. Add 3 tablespoons (44 ml) of water and screw the nozzle onto the top. Shake this mixture till the water is completely combined with the moisturizer. The water helps thin the conditioner out so that you can easily spray it onto your braids. If it's too thick to spray through the nozzle, gradually add more water until it reaches the desired consistency. Unscrew the spray bottle nozzle and add 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of 100% pure glycerin to the diluted conditioner. Screw the bottle nozzle back into place and shake the mixture till the glycerin is mixed in. Glycerin is added to reduce frizz in your hair and keep it moisturized.
A: Choose a conditioner. Gather your moisturizer supplies. Add conditioner and water to the bottle. Add glycerin.

Q: When purchasing masonry paint, be sure to take into account the unique needs and conditions of the surface you’re painting. For instance, flexible acrylic paints expand and contract to adjust to drastic temperature changes, while paints with dirt and mildew-resistant additives will cut down on regular cleaning and maintenance.  You can find masonry paint at any hardware store or home improvement center, or in the paint aisle of superstores like Walmart. Stucco has a far greater surface area than smoother finishing materials. For this reason, it's a good idea to pick up extra paint just to be on the safe side. If a bucket promises 400 square feet (37 m2) of cover, you may only get 200 square feet (19 m2)  It's not typically necessary to use a separate primer, as stucco is a porous material that holds paint well. Line windows, door frames, light fixtures, and the edges of gutters with painter’s tape. Having a buffer in place will allow you to work quickly and efficiently and prevent paint from ending up where it’s not supposed to be. If you’re painting a surface that’s partially indoors or alongside a paved walkway, it's also a good idea to stretch out a dropcloth or tarp to protect the ground from drips and spills. Don't forget to tape the edges of the dropcloth to hold it in place. Whatever container you use should be big enough to accommodate a roller, as this is the tool you’ll be using to color most of the surface. Place the bucket or tray on a flat, stable part of your work area so it will be nearby when you need to reload your roller. To avoid wasting paint, only pour out as much as you need at one time and refill your bucket or tray as you go. Glide your roller back and forth across the surface in smooth, straight lines. Work your way from one end to the other, overlapping the edges of previously-painted sections as you go. To ensure optimum coverage, use both vertical and horizontal strokes.  A lambswool roller is ideal, as it will hold its shape throughout prolonged paint jobs while cutting down on messy drips and splatters. If the surface you’re painting is relatively smooth, a roller with a 0.5 in (1.3 cm) nap thickness should do the trick. For rougher surfaces, switch to a 0.75–1 in (1.9–2.5 cm) roller to help the paint penetrate deeper pores. Once you’ve applied an even layer of paint to the stucco surface, go back over the painted area using short, fluid swipes with the tip of your brush. The thin, flexible bristles will help work the color into the smallest pores, crevices, and other hard-to-reach spots.  Your masonry brush will also come in handy for touching up border areas that you were unable to reach with your roller. A 4 in (10 cm) brush will offer the best balance of coverage and maneuverability for most jobs. Drying times can vary, so be sure to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines as listed on the container of the paint you’re using. Most masonry paints will dry to the touch in 30 minutes to an hour, but may need as long as 2-4 hours to become resistant to touch and moisture. It may be a good idea to complete your first coat one day, then wait until the following day to continue painting. Stucco accepts paint pretty easily, so you may be satisfied with the look of the surface after a single coat. If you think the coverage could be better or the color a bit bolder, you can proceed with a follow-up coat. Roll this coat on the same way you did the first, changing up the direction of your strokes until you’ve covered the whole surface. Don't slather the paint on too heavily, or you could end up covering the surface’s natural texture. Two thin coats tends to look better than one thick one. Your final coat will most likely dry within 24 hours, but it may take as long as 30 days to cure completely. Once it does, the resilient elastomeric paint will provide long-lasting protection against scratches, moisture, and temperature-related damage to keep your stucco surface looking new for years. Avoid handling the topcoat as it cures. Touching it could leave behind unsightly fingerprints or smudges.
A:
Pick up a bucket of masonry paint in the desired color. Mask off areas you don't want to paint. Pour your paint into a large bucket or tray. Roll the paint onto the stucco. Fill in the gaps with a handheld masonry brush. Allow the paint to dry for the recommended amount of time. Apply a second coat with your roller if desired. Allow the paint to cure for up to a month.