Q: Vans are typically longer than standard cars and require more room to park. When pulling into traditional parking lots, look for areas on the side of the lot where you can parallel park, open areas with multiple spots you can occupy, or areas sectioned off for large vehicles. If none of these areas are available, use your best judgement and either park carefully, wait for an opening, or find another lot. Whenever possible, you should back into parking spots instead of pulling into them. To do this, pull in front of the parking spot, brake, and put your car in reverse. Scan your mirrors to make sure the area is clear, then turn your wheel toward the spot and gently release your brake pedal. Slowly back your van into the parking spot, readjusting your vehicle as necessary. Place a spotter or traffic cone behind the vehicle to make backing up easier. when normal spots aren’t available. Find a space large enough for your van and park next to the car in front of it. Then, put your van in reverse and release the brakes. When your side window is lined up with the car’s back bumper, turn your steering wheel toward the parking space and back into it. Once your car is at a 45-degree angle, turn your steering wheel away from the parking space and back up until you’re completely in the parking spot. Vans are far larger and heavier than most vehicles, meaning they’re more prone to rolling while parked. To avoid this, make sure to apply your parking brake whenever you’re not inside the vehicle. Most parking brakes are controlled via a pedal below the steering wheel or a lever near the shift controls. If you have trouble finding the parking brake, consult the van’s user manual.  To avoid damaging the vehicle, only apply the brake when the van is in park. Remember to release the parking brake before driving.
A: Park in large, open spots and designated areas. Back into parking spots to make getting out easier. Parallel park Apply your parking brake.

Article: Place the bone in a small to medium bowl and cover it with room temperature water. Allow the bone to soak for an hour or two.  As with fabric fibers, the bone fibers pick up dye more readily when wet. You only need enough water to keep the bone submerged. When you're ready to start dyeing the bone, fill a saucepan with 1 to 2 cups (250 to 500 ml) of warm to hot water. Set it on your stove and switch on the heat to medium.  You only need enough water to keep the bone submerged. Use a saucepan that will not react to the dye. One made of stainless steel or enamel works best. Sprinkle in 1/2 oz (14 g) of acid dye powder in any color. Mix with a non-reactive spoon until the powder is dissolved.  You need to add between 1/3 and 2/3 oz (9.5 and 19 g) dye powder for every 1 lb (450 g) of bone you plan to dye. On average, 1/2 oz (14 g) should work well for small batches of bone. Keep in mind that more dye powder will produce a darker color, while less will produce a lighter color. You may want to wear rubber gloves or plastic gloves to prevent your hands from accidentally coming into contact with the dye. Remove the bone from its soak and transfer it to the dye bath. Do not dry the bone at all before adding it to the dye bath. Increase the heat to medium-high or high. Continue heating the dye bath until it reaches a temperature between 185 and 200 degrees Fahrenheit (85 and 93 degrees Celsius).  Stir the dye bath frequently as it heats up. Use a cooking thermometer to monitor the temperature of the dye bath. Pour 1/4 cup (60 ml) of vinegar into the dye bath. Stir to combine.  Acid dyes work best when combined with an acid, like vinegar. Note that you will need 1/4 cup (60 ml) vinegar per 1 lb (450 g) of bone. You could substitute the vinegar for 1 Tbsp (15 ml) citric acid per 1 lb (450 g) of bone if desired. Try to avoid pouring the vinegar directly on top of the bone as you add it. Keep the bone in the dye bath for an additional 30 minutes. The dye bath must remain at the same approximate temperature during this time.  You may need to adjust the heat settings on your stove to maintain this temperature. Stir the dye bath frequently during this half hour. If you want a stronger color, you can leave the bone in the dye bath for a longer period of time. Remove the bone from the dye bath. Wash the bone with warm water and a mild liquid soap. Continue rinsing the bone under running water after removing the soap. Do not stop rinsing until the water runs clear and all excess dye has been washed away. Place the dyed bone in a sunny location and allow it to dry completely. Once the bone is dry, the process is complete.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Soak the bone. Fill a small saucepan with water. Stir in the dye powder. Add the bone. Raise the temperature of the dye bath. Mix in a little vinegar. Dye the bone for 30 minutes. Wash in warm water. Let dry.

Q: Set a clean bucket next to the pot of corn mash. Place a fine mesh strainer over the bucket and slowly pour the corn mash through it, so the liquid passes into the bucket and the strainer catches the solids. Or you could scoop small amounts of the mash into a cheesecloth bag and squeeze the bag over the clean bucket. You can discard the grain solids.  The liquid that you're left with after straining the solids is called wort. If you squeeze the corn mash in the cheesecloth bag, you can actually squeeze more liquid out of the mash which will get you more corn whiskey in the end. To aerate the wort, you want to agitate or move the liquid around, so you introduce air into it. Set out two sterilized buckets. Pour the wort into one bucket. Continue to pour the wort back and forth between the buckets, so you see bubbles and froth at the top of the liquid.  You'll probably need to pour them between the buckets 10 to 15 times. Introducing air will give your yeast oxygen that it needs to grow. Fill a sterilized test tube with some of the wort. Place a clean hydrometer into it and swirl the liquid a little. The hydrometer will float around and then settle into one spot. Take the specific gravity reading by seeing where the top of the liquid reaches the hydrometer. Write down the specific gravity reading.  You'll use this specific gravity reading and one you take after fermentation to determine alcohol content.
A:
Strain the corn mash. Aerate the wort. Take a specific gravity reading.