Write an article based on this "Sketch Secure your stencil to the glass. Sketch the design onto the glass. Choose your paints. Prep the area. Start coloring. Remove paint with nail polish remover if corrections are needed."
article: your design first on a piece of paper. If you draw the pattern on a piece of paper or tissue paper, this will allow you to insert it inside the glass, secure it, and use the pattern to transfer and paint over the design. Tissue paper will be easier to work with as it bends much more easily. You by no means need to create a design that requires a sketch. Geometrical and abstract patterns are just as beautiful, if not more so. If it'd be helpful, use tape to devise a pattern on the outside of your glass; you can then easily paint around it. Same goes for the stem and base! There are so many products out there, it's tough to know where to get started. The simplest way is to sketch your design and secure it with tape on the inside of your glass.  You have a couple more options, however:  Place your sketch inside your glass and fill it with something like a sock or quilt batting. The soft interior will keep it in place, intact. Buy self-adhering stencils at your local craft supply store. If you can fathom its existence, it can be found. Stencils come in sticker form nowadays, and you can just plop them onto your glass and paint away. Use a fine point sharpie (or marker that will not wipe off) to sketch a design on the glass. If you don't like your sketch, you can use a q-tip or cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover to "erase" the marker or paint. This outline will probably remain visible. If you want to go for a more of a "One Stroke" method, skip sketching directly on the glass, and just paint using the sketch underneath. As with stencils, it's easy to walk into the paint aisle and feel absolutely overwhelmed. There are a handful of varieties to choose from and the differences are really only nuanced -- they'll all create something pleasurable to the eye. What you choose is just a matter of current mood and taste.  Enamels (like Folk Art or Martha Stewart) are water-based and especially geared toward glass painting. They can handle the dishwasher if cured (not necessarily the microwave, however) -- but some require a primer and top coat (like PermEnamel), so note the label. Acrylics work, too. However, it generally depends on the quality of the paints you choose -- some are more prone to washing off. If you do go the acrylic route, spray a high-quality varnish on top (they have sparkly ones!) to secure the paint to the glass.There are acrylics that are designed more for glass painting. If acrylic is your jam, use this variety.  Regardless of what type of paint you end up using, you'll probably encounter air dry and heat dry forms. In general, the glasses that are baked (require heat drying) last longer. To add more spice to the mix, you'll also have the option of choosing transparent (light will pass through), opaque (light will not pass through), and frosted paints. Decisions, decisions. They've officially thought of everything -- glass paint markers are available, too. They bake on and make even the most detailed of glasses beginner-doable. Though it should go without saying, paint isn't fun to pick off your favorite sweater or your grandma's mahogany table. Go change your clothes, and lay down several layers of newspaper or wax paper -- anything to protect those surfaces. And take the dog outside. While you're at it, open the windows. Being high on paint fumes isn't the state you want to be in for this project! Glass painting methods number no fewer than canvas painting methods. This part is entirely up to you. But if you're looking for a little inspiration, here's a few jumping off points:  Create a marbleized glass by pouring your paint over your piece, top to bottom. Pour in a thin even layer, rotating the glass consistently. Alternate colors as desired. Liquid fill paints will be best for this method.Use just one color and pour on until completely covered to create a solid painted glass.  Use tape to make stripes. Just after you've painted between the stripes, take it off; if the tape is taken off when the paint is dry, you risk chipping the paint. If you have any quirks in your stripes, just take your craft knife and carefully chip away until the lines are straight. Get polka-dotting. The blunt end of your paintbrush is great for dots, or you can use a dauber or spouncer. To do this effectively, never come in or go out at an angle. Always place your tool straight down and take it straight back up. Use sponges. Whether it's a dish sponge or a sponge brush, you can create interesting, layered designs with a dab of paint -- little skill required. Add colors on top of each other to create shading and highlighting. That's just painting 101.  Don't forget the stem and base! Half of your "canvas" isn't the actual glass (if you're using a wine glass). For the base, consider painting the underside to achieve an is-it-there-is-it-not-there look. You know the kind. If you were wondering about paintbrushes, unless you're an avid painter, they're all pretty much the same. But if we're splitting hairs, the synthetic ones will be more stroke-y; natural-haired brushes will paint a smooth, complete picture. Resin-based paints are incredibly temporary until baked and can even be removed with warm water. If you absolutely must remove the paint, do so quickly.

Write an article based on this "Track the length of your illness. Pay attention to the color of your mucus. Observe your throat. Evaluate your fever."
article: In general, viral infections are milder than bacterial infections, but they tend to last longer. You will feel very sick for 1 to 3 days and then you will start to feel better, but some of your symptoms may linger. Symptoms that linger for a week or more may be a virus.  It's important to stay vigilant and talk to your doctor about antibiotics if symptoms last for a while. Viruses can morph into things like sinus infections or increase the risk of middle ear infections, which may result in you developing a bacterial infection as well. When you blow your nose or cough up mucus, pay attention to the color. While it may feel a little gross, color can be an indicator of whether you have a viral or bacterial infection.  Thin and clear mucus is more likely to be a viral infection. Dark, greenish mucus is more likely to be a bacterial infection. However, mucus color is not a 100% accurate indicator of whether you have a viral or bacterial infection. Make sure to weigh in other factors. A sore throat is common for both viral and bacterial infections. Checking for a sore throat is the most common test that will be performed in your doctor’s office to determine if you need antibiotics right away. Certain types of sore throats can indicate a bacterial infection. For example, white spots are generally caused by bacteria. A sore throat without other symptoms, such as a runny nose or sneezing, may be a bacterial infection such as strep throat. Fevers can be present in both viral and bacterial infections. However, fevers differ slightly with different types of infections. In bacterial infections, fevers tend to be higher. With a bacterial infection, fevers get worse after a few days while they tend to improve a few days in with a viral infection. The normal human body temperature runs between 97.8° F (36.5°C) and 99°F (37.2°C).

Write an article based on this "Be vigilant about weeds. Keep the cranberry plants well-watered. Fertilize the soil. Control pests and disease. Prune the runners from the third year of growth."
article:
Cranberry plants do not compete well against weeds, so it's very important to weed the bed regularly, particularly during the first year. Luckily, the peat moss used in the cranberry plot will inhibit the growth of many common garden weeds. During the first year (and beyond) cranberry plants will need constant watering to keep the soil. If the roots dry out, the plants will die.  It is a common misconception that cranberry plants need to be saturated or submerged in water during growing. Although the soil should always be wet (or at least damp) to the touch, it shouldn't be saturated with water. Too much water can slow down root growth and prevent the roots from reaching the necessary depth. Soon, your cranberry plants will start to put out out runners that grow along the ground. The runners should grow until they fill and cover the bed. If they do not, you can fertilize your cranberry bed with a high-nitrogen fertilizer. Only use fertilizer if runners are struggling to grow; too much high-nitrogen fertilizer may cause overwhelming growth.  If fertilizing in the first year, fertilize the soil three times -- once at the beginning of growth, once when the flowers bud and once when the berries start forming. In order to contain the spread of runners within the cranberry plot, you may want to line the perimeter of the bed with some wooden or plastic edging. After the first year, you'll need to cut off the nitrogen supply to the runners -- this will encourage them to stop spreading so they will take root and form uprights instead. Use a non-nitrogen fertilizer from the second year onwards. At the start of the second year (and every couple of years after that) you will need to cover the soil with a thin (1/2 inch) layer of sand. This helps to root the runners and prevent weeds. Cranberry plants are susceptible to certain pests and diseases, but these are relatively easy to deal with, provided you know what to look for.  Cranberry fruit-worm is a common problem, where grey moths lay their eggs inside the berries themselves. If you spot grey moths around your cranberry plants, you will need to spray the plot with insecticides to kill the eggs. If you do not catch fruitworm on time, the eggs will hatch and the worms will eat the cranberries from the inside out. When this happens, the infested berries will turn red before they ripen. You can deal with this by picking off the prematurely red berries (in addition to the surrounding fruit) and disposing of them. Two other common diseases are red spot (where bright red spots develop on the leaves of the plant) and berry fruit rot. The treatment for both of these diseases is the same -- spray the cranberry plants with an organic, copper-based fungicide between late June and early August, according to the instructions on the label. From the third year of growth onwards, you will need to prune the cranberry plants each spring to control the runners and encourage uprights.  You can do this by combing the cranberry plot with a landscape rake, until all of the runners are going in the same direction. This makes it easier to identify the longest runners and cut them back. Do not prune the existing uprights. As time goes on, your cranberry plants may begin to spread beyond the bounds of the original plot. If this happens, you can prune each of the plants back in the springtime, until there is only two inches of growth above the soil line. The cranberry plants will not produce fruit that year, but normal production will resume the following year.