Q: First, get into a staggered stance. Second, lower your body and take a step with your dominant foot. Third, fall to your dominant leg's knee and drag your non-dominant leg in front of your body. Finally, come to a knee with your non-dominant leg extended in front of you. If you are a right handed, you should end up on your right knee. The drop step is a move which allows you to penetrate your opponent’s defenses and move in close to them. At this point, you’ll begin to grapple and attempt to pin them. Start from your staggered stance, then move towards your partner with a drop step. Your leading leg should be on the inside of your partners legs and your non-dominant leg should be on the outside. Your right hand should be grasped onto the back of your opponent’s left thigh and your left hand should be on the back of their right thigh. Once your hands are in place, stand up and dig your head into your opponents hip. Try to drive them off balance. If you are not strong enough to topple your opponent in a single move, you can still drive your opponent with your head on his hip. They will eventually lose their balance and fall. Identify which of your opponent’s legs is closest to you. Stay low, and perform a drop step to move in close to the leg. Wrap both arms around the leg, and clasp your hands so they’re locked together. (This part of the move is called the “shot.”) To take your opponent down, stand up and push your head into your opponent’s chest. At the same time, lift your opponent’s leg so they’re standing on only 1 foot (0.30 m).  From here you can exert more pressure on the opponent’s raised leg to topple them over backwards. This is a standard takedown move that all wrestlers should master, although it’s more difficult than the double-leg takedown. Once you’ve performed a takedown (or after you’ve countered an opponent with a sprawl), you’re ready to pin them. Begin this move when your opponent is face-down on the mat. Move your dominant arm beneath one of your opponent’s arms, so it’s threaded through their armpit. Set the palm of your dominant hand on the back of the opponent’s neck, and push their head down into the mat. Then use your arm to lift up the opponent’s should so they’re immobile. To prevent your opponent from standing up, move your body to the side of their and use your weight to pin their legs down.
A: Practice your drop steps to get inside your opponents’ defenses. Learn the double-leg takedown. Train to perform a single-leg takedown. Pin your opponent to the mat with a half nelson.

Q: Words are great, but pictures say much more.  Include as many pictures, graphs, tables, charts, diagrams, etc., as possible. Keep your backgrounds (i.e., whatever is behind your graphics and text) simple and subtle. Reading the text that is on top of a colourful or complex background can be difficult and distracting.  Try to print as many of your graphics in colour as possible, especially graphs and charts where the colour distinguishes between different items or variables. If you don't have access to a colour printer, you can use markers or crayons to add color to things like graphs and charts. Each visual item (graph, chart, table, diagram, picture, etc.) should have its own number (or letter), plus a descriptive caption. When the main text refers to a specific visual item, that number or letter should be used. The caption should accurately and quickly describe what is contained in the visual item, and can be printed in slightly smaller font (less than 16 pt). Your main text and captions should include the technical or scientific names, terms and jargon for the discipline your project is based on. If necessary, you can also include a glossary of terms on your display board or in your project report.  Using the proper terms is especially important if your project is being displayed in a science fair or event that is being judged by professionals. If your project is really complex, you can also include a 'layman's summary' as part of your display which sums up your project in language anyone can understand. This is particularly useful if your display board is also being viewed by fellow students, parents, or non-professionals. It can be tempting to get really creative and eccentric when creating a project display board, but try to avoid the temptation! A good project display board is one that is uncluttered, has easy-to-read and clear material, contains graphics that effectively explain your project, and colours that don't overwhelm the viewer.  Search the web for example display boards to get an idea of what works well, and what doesn't. Ask your teacher for advice on what to do and not to do, and for examples of project boards that previously received awesome grades. Display boards come in a standard size of 36” tall and 48” wide. You can buy or make larger (or smaller) boards, but make sure the size is not only appropriate for your display but also allowed by the event (if such rules exist). These display boards have three panels - the middle panel which is half the width of the whole board, and the two outside panels that are a quarter of the width each. The two outside panels can fold over the middle panel to close the board for transport. And the outside panels can be used to stand the whole display board upright on a table.  You can find display boards at online retailers like Amazon.com or at your local school supply store. Bigger is not always better. Boards that are really tall or really wide may be difficult to read and/or contain too much information.
A:
Use as many visual items as possible. Label all your graphs, charts and photos. Include the proper terms and jargon. Remember that less is more. Buy the proper display board.