Problem: Article: If you haven't already shaved the sides of your hair, you're going to need to do this for a real mohawk. You'll need clippers, the right size guard, and some rubber bands or masking tape. Visualize the strip that will be left behind and what will be shaved. Make sure the strip is wide enough to support the finished style, usually about 2-3 inches in width, centered on your head.  If your hair is shorter use tape to mark off where you want the mohawk: put the tape anywhere that you want hair to be left. If your hair is long, try using rubber bands. Use a comb to section off the hair that will make up your mohawk, then rubber band all of it into small ponytails or buns where the clippers can’t reach it. Test the guard size to make sure it's the right length, then adjust if it's too long. Start shaving against the grain, starting with the front and moving to the back of your head. Shaving the front will be easy because you can see it as you shave, but for the back you’ll either need help, or a mirror positioned behind you. No one likes itchy hairs all over, and washing will give you a chance to get rid of any hairs that are still clinging to your scalp. Once you’re done, return to the mirror and check to see that your cuts are straight and everything looks good. Blow dry again, then get ready to style. Pick up a section in the middle of your head with your non-dominant hand. Keep holding the section and don’t move. Spray deep into the roots and throughout the top. Don’t be worried about using too much product: your hair will feel wet and sticky, but you're going to blow dry it soon. The bottom of your hair is going to hold the weight, so you want it to be extra stiff. You’re already holding the hair with your non-dominant hand, so set down the hair spray and pick up the blow dryer with your dominant hand. While keeping your hair held tight, blow dry until you feel the hair becoming stiff. Let go after 30-45 seconds. Move towards the back of your head and pick up the section of hair directly behind of the one standing up. Hold it with your non-dominant hand again, and make sure it lines up with the section in front of it. Hair spray it, again paying special attention to the roots of your hair. Using the same technique as the last section of hair, blow dry the section of hair again. As it firms up, use your free hand to adjust the two sections to meet: you don’t want any gaps in your mohawk. Use the same technique again for the final sections of your mohawk: lifting, spraying and then blow drying. But while you can see the front in the mirror, the back is a little trickier to manage. Position a mirror behind you, or take frequent breaks as you’re styling to check out the hawk from the side. Use the same technique for each section of hair: lift, spray and blow dry. Don’t change your technique for any of the sections, even if your hands get tired from so much lifting. Take a break if you feel your arms getting fatigued. When you’re finished, check the mohawk out from both sides and make any adjustments that you need to. If there are big gaps or open holes in your hair, carefully close the sections together, apply more hairspray, and blow dry again. Repeat for any remaining gaps. Use some gel to solidify and connect the outside edge of your mohawk if you want.
Summary: Cut or trim your hair first. Map out your hair. Clip the exposed sides. Wash up. Lift the first section. Spray the first section. Blow dry the section. Lift and spray the next section. Blow dry the section. Work towards the back. Finish all remaining sections. Touch up the mohawk.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Before you start your dog on a diet, check with the vet. Many clinics run a dog weight loss program where your pet is weighed and you can get specific instructions about how much to feed your dog. These regular weigh-ins, firm target, and moral support can make you more likely to succeed in putting your dog on an effective diet. Your vet may recommend one of the following diets:  High Fiber/Low-Fat Diet: These contain fiber which expand in your dog's stomach, making him feel full. The package instructions should clearly state how much to feed your dog based on a target (goal) weight. Metabolic diets: These are more high tech and feed the genes that improve your dog's metabolism. Increasing metabolism can make your dog burn more calories, causing him to lose weight. Pay attention to how much you're currently feeding your dog. If your dog is fed twice a day, weigh out the total amount so you know how much he's eating. However, if your dog has food constantly available, it's harder to determine how much he's eating. This makes it more difficult to know how much to cut down. If this is the case, look at the food package and see how much it advises feeding a dog at your dog's target rate. For most dogs, the package will advise a weight range. For example, 300 to 350 grams of food a day. You'd want to choose the lower amount of 300 grams. Once you've determined how much your dog needs to eat a day, reduce the amount by 5 to 10%. For example, if you are feeding 300g of kibble a day, 10% of this is 30g, so the new amount is 270g. Feed this reduced amount for one or two weeks and weigh your dog. Hopefully, he loses weight, but if he hasn't, deduct another 5 to 10% from his daily food amount. Weigh your dog again after feeding the reduced amount for another week or two. Don't be upset or worried if the portion size looks small or your dog pesters you for food. This is a normal concern when putting a dog on a diet. If you're really unsettled, you may want to feed a prescription weight loss diet instead. Since you'll be cutting back on your dog's food and increasing exercise, you'll need to offer positive encourage every so often. While you can praise your dog, you can also give him the rare treat. Just be sure to offer something healthy that will also make him feel full and satisfied. Some good options include:  Bran or grated vegetable mixed with his food French or runner beans, raw Apples (in moderation) Bananas (in moderation) Get your dog involved in earning his food, rather than just set it out in front of him. Buy a puzzle or activity feeder that you can fill with food. Your dog then moves shapes around or rolls balls around to get the food inside to fall out. This can make your dog more active and mentally engaged. Try to prevent boredom while your dog's on a diet. Keeping his mind occupied will prevent him from thinking about food. Training is also a great way to keep a dog active and prevent boredom. Of course training depends heavily on rewards, so take some of his dinner kibble and set it aside for rewards or give him lots of praising. Weigh your dog once every week or two so you can track any weight loss. This will also indicate whether your diet and routine are working. If he isn't losing, then you can reevaluate what you're doing. Make sure your goals are reasonable and that you're consistent with the regimen. Don't expect sudden drops in weight. Instead, look for slow and steady weight loss which is more sustainable. Smaller dogs should aim to lose no more than four ounces a week while larger dogs can aim for one pound per week. If you have a large dog or do not have access to scales, use a tape measure. Chose a point on the dog such as his girth or his waist and measure around it. Make a note of any landmarks the tape passes over, such as a particular pattern or spot, so you place the tape in the same place each time.
Summary:
Consult with a veterinarian. Determine how much food your dog eats a day. Reduce the amount of food you feed. Offer healthy treats occasionally. Make your dog work for food. Monitor your dog's weight loss.