Q: You need good, consistent airflow to get your fire going, as the charcoal needs oxygen to burn. Make sure to dump any ash, as this takes up space needed for proper airflow, and to leave the vents completely open. Make a small pile of newspaper in the middle of the charcoal grate. You can also use the paper of the charcoal bag too. Paper lights quickly, and the flame from the paper will help the charcoal catch. If you are struggling to light your fires with newspaper alone, soak half the paper in olive, canola, or vegetable oil. The oil will cause the paper to burn slower, which may give the charcoal more time to catch. This DIY solution, though far from perfect, has a lot of proponents as a natural alternative to lighter fluid. Kindling, which is small wood pieces used to start a fire, has a higher flaming point than paper, which will help light the charcoal. Place a handful of kindling on top and around your paper, making a little nest of sorts. The paper will light the kindling, and the kindling and paper together will light the briquets.  If the sticks easily snap in your hands, making a loud popping sound, they are dry enough to use. Have a spare handful of kindling nearby as well, in case the fire needs extra fuel. If you don't have any stick around, use extra paper. You may have to keep feeding it into the fire until the briquets catch, however, so have several pieces handy. These are going to start the fire for the rest of your charcoal. Place them near the center and rest them on the sticks. As the paper crumbles below, you want to still have some flames beneath the briquets. While briquets (the small square pieces of charcoal) will burn for longer, hardwood charcoal is easier to catch and burns hotter initially. Use a match or a fire-starter to light several corners of the paper, getting a nice bright fire going. You should notice the kindling starting to catch in the big, leaping flames created by the paper. If the stick haven't quite caught as the paper is dying out, loosely crumple up 1-2 more pieces and places them on the edges, near the sticks. If you see gray or white edges of ash on the briquets and the pieces are smoking, you're in business. This process is slow, but it will eventually start a fire. Keep your lighter fire of kindling and newspaper going until you've got some ash on the outside of the pieces. Once you've got the first few briquets smoking you can start adding more pieces, one after the other. A strong charcoal fire does not look like a wood fire -- if you see white or gray ash developing on the outside of the squares, you should be good to go. You will not likely see, however, large licking flames.  Keep adding briquets until you have a large pile in the center of the grill. The inner briquets, for now, will be the only hot ones. You should see smoke coming up from the center of your pile. Depending on the size of your grill, you'll need a different amount of briquets: Small, personal grills can usually get by with 25-30 pieces. Medium size grills, like the most common 22" grill, should have roughly 40 briquets. Large grills may need anywhere from 1-2 bags of charcoal, and will take a long time to get hot using this method. The inside of the pile will be glowing bright red with heat. This means you are ready to cook. Add any more briquets you might want if they fire has gotten small, and then place the charcoal in it's desired location with a pair of long-handled tongs. This can take anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour.
A: Open the bottom vents and clean out the ash. Crumple up 4-5 pieces of newspaper and place them in the center grill. Place small, dry sticks on top of your newspaper. Place 3-4 pieces of charcoal on top of your pile. Ignite the paper from several places. Get the charcoal smoking. Slowly add more pieces of charcoal to the fire you've made. Wait to distribute your coals for cooking until they are mostly covered in white/gray ash.

Q: Non-Linear Editing (NLE) is just a fancy way to say you're no longer editing rolls of film by hand. That said, the term has come to mean mostly high-end, quality video editing software with robust features and controls. Common options include the following:   DaVinci Resolve — A new, free, and open-source video editing program. It may keep changing, but the price is enough to make it worth trying.  Adobe Premier — One of the classics, Premier works well on Mac and PC. If you use other Adobe products, like Photoshop, you may find Premier easy and intuitive to get used to.  Final Cut X Pro — This specific version of Final Cut was considered the industry standard for a long time, though it has gotten weaker with updates. Very popular for Mac computers.  Avid — The standard of many professional film editors, Avid has all the functionality of its competitors and an interface made to work on the project with a large team. Knowing the reason for the clip's existence will help you determine which parts of the clip are okay to keep and which parts need to go. You'll also want to consider the clip's current strengths and weaknesses. Strengths should be highlighted, and weaknesses should be masked or cut outright. If the shot, moment, or image isn't adding anything to the story, ditch it. For good video clips, every single frame needs to seem intentional. If you're only using one continuous camera feed, you can still mask over mistakes or slow moments with well-placed text or music. Flashy, obnoxious transitions are the hallmark of many poor editors. Ditch the snazzy flashbulb and stick to simple fades, dissolves, and hard cuts (no transition at all) when switching between clips. If you want to use a fancy effect, use it to transition in and out of the clip at the very beginning and end. Never use the novelty cuts and transitions—they just take focus away from your clip. The rule of thirds comes from photography, and is used to compose great frames for film or photos: mentally divide the frame with two horizontal lines and two vertical lines, so you have nine even boxes on your image. The rule of thirds states, simply, that the best images place items on these lines. When titling or adjusting the image, try to line up your text, the horizon, and special effects with these imaginary guidelines. Some video-recording hardware, such as smartphones, have a "Grid" option which places a three-by-three grid of squares over the camera interface. The purpose of a good editor is to disappear, and this is doubly true for a short video clip. Use a basic color correcter, like your program's "color balance" effect (they all have one), to make the footage smooth and attractive, lower the volume on the music so that you can still hear the camera audio, and make sure that, when played together, the sound is not too loud.  Remember, you want people focused on content, not why the music is too loud. Just like video, audio needs to be faded in and out to sound natural. If you're only recording simple, one-take clips, then this doesn't need to apply; for all other shoots, knowing that you'll be editing a video later should make you a much more diligent camera person. Some things to consider include the following:  Always shoot 5 seconds of nothing before and after shot (also known as "run-in" and "run-out" footage). This gives you crucial editing footage to splice with other shots. Take a few shots of "coverage," or the setting around you, to which you can cut in order to hide any mistakes in the footage. Never skimp on audio; use a dedicated microphone instead of a camera microphone, and consider mastering the audio separately.
A:
Use a quality, professional non-linear editing system. Consider the point of your clip. Trim the video to be as short as possible without losing quality. Make all transitions as smooth as possible. Remember the rule of thirds, especially when titling. Balance color, sound, and music. Keep editing in mind next time you go shoot a clip.