Q: Words are great, but pictures say much more.  Include as many pictures, graphs, tables, charts, diagrams, etc., as possible. Keep your backgrounds (i.e., whatever is behind your graphics and text) simple and subtle. Reading the text that is on top of a colourful or complex background can be difficult and distracting.  Try to print as many of your graphics in colour as possible, especially graphs and charts where the colour distinguishes between different items or variables. If you don't have access to a colour printer, you can use markers or crayons to add color to things like graphs and charts. Each visual item (graph, chart, table, diagram, picture, etc.) should have its own number (or letter), plus a descriptive caption. When the main text refers to a specific visual item, that number or letter should be used. The caption should accurately and quickly describe what is contained in the visual item, and can be printed in slightly smaller font (less than 16 pt). Your main text and captions should include the technical or scientific names, terms and jargon for the discipline your project is based on. If necessary, you can also include a glossary of terms on your display board or in your project report.  Using the proper terms is especially important if your project is being displayed in a science fair or event that is being judged by professionals. If your project is really complex, you can also include a 'layman's summary' as part of your display which sums up your project in language anyone can understand. This is particularly useful if your display board is also being viewed by fellow students, parents, or non-professionals. It can be tempting to get really creative and eccentric when creating a project display board, but try to avoid the temptation! A good project display board is one that is uncluttered, has easy-to-read and clear material, contains graphics that effectively explain your project, and colours that don't overwhelm the viewer.  Search the web for example display boards to get an idea of what works well, and what doesn't. Ask your teacher for advice on what to do and not to do, and for examples of project boards that previously received awesome grades. Display boards come in a standard size of 36” tall and 48” wide. You can buy or make larger (or smaller) boards, but make sure the size is not only appropriate for your display but also allowed by the event (if such rules exist). These display boards have three panels - the middle panel which is half the width of the whole board, and the two outside panels that are a quarter of the width each. The two outside panels can fold over the middle panel to close the board for transport. And the outside panels can be used to stand the whole display board upright on a table.  You can find display boards at online retailers like Amazon.com or at your local school supply store. Bigger is not always better. Boards that are really tall or really wide may be difficult to read and/or contain too much information.
A: Use as many visual items as possible. Label all your graphs, charts and photos. Include the proper terms and jargon. Remember that less is more. Buy the proper display board.

Q: Most clotheslines are approximately 6 ft. tall. Two 10 ft. posts work well for this, because it gives you the height and allows 3-4 ft. of the post to be buried underground. You can also use a 8-8 1/2 ft. post instead. If the posts are too long, you need to cut them. However, these two posts may not need to be cut at all.  If you live in a climate that experiences a deep freeze in the winter, make sure to put your posts below the freeze line so they don't shift. Decide if that is 3 or 4 ft. or more.  You may also need to bury the post deeper in the ground if you live in an area with sandy or unstable soil. Take the two 8 ft. posts and cut them in half. This will give you four 4 ft. posts. Then take two of the 4 ft. beams and cut them in half so you have four 2 ft. beams. These will be used for the cross braces.  That should give you one 4 ft. crossbeam and two 2 ft. braces for each clothesline post. Cut 45 degree angles into the ends of the 2 ft. beams. To do this, adjust your miter saw to the 45 angle. These beams will be the braces. Make sure you double check your angles before cutting the wood. Messing up the angle means you will have to get another piece of wood. The crosspiece can be around 3 ft. long if you want. You can also cut the ends of the crosspiece at an angle if you don't want flat edges. Measure and mark the center of the crossbeam and the center of the top of the post. The center mark will be on the edge of the crossbeam at the top that faces the sky. The center mark on the post will be on the top, which is the edge that the brace sits on. Drill a hole that is a little narrower than the lag bolt in the center where you made your mark.  Connect the crossbeam to the post with the lag bolt. When complete, the crossbeam will sit on top of the post, in the shape of a T. Fit the braces against the post and crossbeam. You want to drill the holes near the bottom at an angle so it will connect to the post, and then through the top so it will connect to the crossbeam and brace. Drill holes into these areas, making sure the hole is centered on the wood.  The braces will fit snugly against the beam and post because of the angle you cut into each end. Clamp the wooden braces in place to stabilize them. Drill the holes into the beams and screw in the bolts. Measure the spaces for your eye hooks evenly along the crossbeam. Make sure not to start at the very edge. Try starting around 6 inches from the edge. For 4 hooks, you want to space them 10-12 inches apart. Pre-drill the holes, and then twist the eye hooks into the holes.  You can use the handle of your screwdriver to twist the hooks into the wood. You may want to install 3 eye hooks instead of 4 depending on the length of your crossbeam.
A:
Measure the posts. Cut the angles in your crossbeams. Drill the holes. Screw the braces to the posts. Install the eye hooks.