Line the bottom of the box with crumpled newspaper, bubble wrap, or Styrofoam packing peanuts. Then nestle the bag or bags into the Styrofoam box and fill the remaining open spaces with more crumpled newspaper (or other material). The packing material surrounding the bag, along with the Styrofoam box itself, provides protection during transport and helps insulate and maintain the temperature of the water inside the bag. Don’t freeze the cold packs or overheat the heat packs—instead, cool or heat them so they’re just slightly below or above the current water temperature. Then, wrap them in newspaper and nestle them in the insulating material surrounding the bag(s) of fish.  The insulating material and Styrofoam should be sufficient to maintain the water temperature for at least 24 hours. However, if the box will be exposed to very high or low temperatures during shipping, if the shipping process will take more than 1 day, or if the fish are very sensitive to temperature fluctuations, add a few heat or cold packs. Don’t set a bag with fish directly on a heat/cold pack. Two heat/cold packs should be adequate for a small fish shipping box. Press the lid securely on the Styrofoam box—it should fit very snugly. For extra security, wrap some packing tape around the seam of the lid. Then, slide the Styrofoam inner box into the cardboard outer box—once again, it should be a very snug fit. Use a good-quality packing tape to seal up the cardboard box after you’ve placed the Styrofoam box inside it. Most boxes designed for shipping fish will already be prominently labeled on the outside. However, it never hurts to grab a marker and add some additional labels. If your outer box isn’t pre-labeled, add a prominent “live fish,” “this side up,” and “fragile” notation to each side. Use large, block lettering that’s easy to read. Write the recipient’s address on the center of the box in large, clear lettering, then include the return address in the upper left corner. Affix any shipping labels as necessary.
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One-sentence summary -- Place insulating material and the bagged fish in the Styrofoam box. Add heat/cold packs wrapped in newspaper if necessary. Seal the lid on the Styrofoam box, and place it into the cardboard box. Add labels, like "fragile," "live fish," and "this side up" to the box. Address the box.

Q: When measuring the length of one section of cabinets, run a measuring tape flush along the back edge of the section from one end to the other end. Add 3⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) to the measurement, and round the measurement to the nearest 1⁄8 inch (0.32 cm). Record this measurement on your diagram or a separate sheet of paper. Repeat this process until you have measured the length of each section of your new cabinetry. When measuring the depth of your new cabinets, you must account for the overhang of the countertop. Run the measuring tape from the back of the cabinet to the front top edge of the cabinet. To account for the countertops’ overhang, add 1–1 1⁄2 in (2.5–3.8 cm) to the measurement. Record this revised number on your diagram or a separate sheet of paper. Repeat this process until you have measured the width of each section of cabinets. To account for the overhang of an island, you must add 3 inches to the length and 3 inches to the width. To receive an estimate from a contractor for the cost of your new countertops, you need to provide an approximate calculation of the countertops’ square footage.  Calculate the area (or square inches) of each section by multiplying the length times the width of each section (Length x Width = Area). Calculate the total square inches by adding together the areas of each section. Calculate the square footage by dividing the total square inches by 144 (Total Square Inches ➗ 144 = Total Square Footage).
A: Measure the length of your new cabinets in inches. Measure the width of your new cabinets and add 1–1 1⁄2 in (2.5–3.8 cm). Calculate the square footage.

Article: Boat soap is designed to reduce residue and is better for the environment than dish soap, so it's your best bet for cleaning your boat. Mix together 2 parts warm water with 1 part boat soap in a large pail or bucket. Dip a mop into the soapy mixture and then mop along the surfaces of your boat. You should see dirt come up as you mop.  You can find boat soap at most home improvement and boat supply stores. You can use non-skid cleaners to clean the deck of the boat where the plastic is molded in and hard to clean. Once your boat is clean, walk along it, looking for cracks. It can be helpful to run your hand over the surface of your boat as you walk, since you might feeI a crack before you see it.  If you find small, hairline cracks in your boat, you can repair it yourself by using epoxy. Fiberglass epoxy is available at most boat supply stores. Follow the instructions on the epoxy for repairing the cracks. If the crack is deep or larger than a hairline crack, you'll need to take your boat to a professional to have it restored. A gel acid-based stain remover will work best to remove stubborn stains. Wear rubber gloves and eye protection before you apply the remover. Use a rag to swab the cleaner across the stain and then let it sit for 20 minutes. Use a hose to rinse off the remover.  Depending on how bad the stain is, you may need to apply more than 1 coat. If you find that one type of stain is resistant to the remover, look for a specialty remover. You might need one to remove mold, black streaks, or rust. Your boat likely has a lot of items that can't be removed, like metal fittings and railings. Use painters' tape to tape these areas off. It will protect them from getting scratched when you restore the gelcoat.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Clean your boat's surface with boat soap and warm water. Check for damage or cracks. Use acid-based stain removers to remove mineral and organic stains. Tape off any fittings that could be damaged.

Article: Paragraphs are harder to skim through than bullet points, so recruiters may not be seeing all the information you want them to see. If any of your job descriptions are written in paragraph form, break them up into several bullet points. Keep each bullet point between 1-2 sentences long. To shorten your resume, make your writing more concise. Delete any unnecessary information, like dates and descriptions for jobs you had over 15 years ago. If you’re using a large font, make it smaller (but not so small that it’s hard to read). Recruiters like to skim resumes, and they’ll be more likely to look yours over if it’s only 1 page. Put it in bold font so it’s easy for recruiters to find. Make sure it includes your phone number, email address, city and zip code (you can leave out your full mailing address). Avoid colorful, crazy fonts that will distract from the content of your resume. Try to use the same font throughout your whole resume so it looks neat and polished.  Make your headlines bold and slightly larger to help them stand out. Some simple fonts you can use for your resume are: Times New Roman, Georgie, Garamond, Arial, Century Gothic, Tahoma, and Bell MT. Search online for "free resume builder." There are also resume builders you can pay for to get access to more premium features. Once you find a software or app you like, input the information from your resume into the builder so it can help you organize it all in an effective way. Then, save the resume you made and use it to apply for jobs. Some resume builders you can try are https://www.resume-now.com, https://www.myperfectresume.com, or https://www.canva.com/create/resumes.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Use bullet points instead of paragraphs for your job descriptions. Shorten your resume if it’s longer than 1 page. Move your contact information to the top. Use a simple, black, size-12 font. Use a resume-building software or app.