You'll want to lay the jacket with the back facing up so you can iron the back first. Test the iron heat first on an inside area of the fabric, close to the hem, so if for some reason the iron leaks or marks it, it is not in a visible place. Adjust the settings if necessary and continue carefully.  Smooth out any large wrinkles before you begin pressing the jacket. If the jacket has any embroidery, turn the jacket inside out and press it through the lining rather than over the embroidery. You will need to use a cooler heat setting if you press through the lining. Lay the jacket flat on the ironing board with the back of the suit on top and facing you. Do not pull or stretch the arm seams while you are pressing the back of the suit since these should stay slightly shrunken.  Spray a small amount of water onto the fabric you want to press. Press down on sections of the back rather than gliding the iron over the fabric. You want to press the wrinkles out rather than smoothing them. If the jacket has vents, put a piece of stiff paper between the vent and the rest of the back. This helps to prevent marks being made on the layer underneath the vent. Iron the top piece of the vent, then lift it up while you press the piece that is underneath the vent. Now that the back has been pressed, you can begin to work on the front and sides of the jacket. Lay one half of the jacket on the ironing board so the other half of the front is off the board. If the jacket has darts, the dart should be lined up with the outer edge of the board to avoid creasing. Smooth any large wrinkles out of the fabric and lining before you start to press and spritz the fabric with water. Press the front part of the jacket in small sections using a moderate amount of pressure.  The front of the jacket will most likely have pocket flaps and lapels that you will need to pay special attention to.  Jacket lapels should not be creased unless you want a hard military look. Run the iron over lapels very gently. Similarly, if the jacket has shoulder pads do not press directly on the pads or their outline will be pressed into the jacket. Pull out pockets before you press over that area so you do not press in the outline of pocket wrinkles. If there are pocket flaps, use the stiff piece of paper you used on the vents to separate the layers as you press them. Sleeves are the trickiest part of the jacket to iron because of their shape and the fact that you have two layers of fabric and lining to deal with.  Lay the sleeve down on the board and smooth out any large wrinkles in the fabric and the lining by hand. If you are using a sleeve board, insert the board into the sleeve so you can rotate the sleeve around the board. Lay a damp cloth over the sleeve. This will help to protect the suit fabric and make pressing easier. Start by ironing the center of the sleeve first. Use the arm seam to guide the iron so you do not crease the fabric. Using a sleeve board is the easiest way to iron a sleeve since you can rotate the material around the board as you press without creating a crease. If you do not have a sleeve board you can substitute a cylindrical container to keep the sleeve's shape while you iron. You can use a rolled up thick magazine or a cylindrical cardboard tube and insert it into the sleeve. Be sure to cover the magazine or tube with a cotton towel before you insert it. As soon as you are finished, hang your neatly pressed and steamed jacket on a well-shaped hanger. Use a hanger with shoulders and padding if possible, though a wire one will work in a pinch.  Allow the jacket to hang while it cools. Unplug your iron and put away your ironing board. Wait until the iron is cool to the touch before putting it away.

Summary: Take the jacket and lay it flat on the board. Press the back section. Flip the jacket to the front. Press the front of the jacket. Prepare the sleeves. Iron the sleeves. Hang up your jacket.


You may need to adjust the amount of ribbon you use depending on the height and diameter of your vase. Choose a satin ribbon that is at least 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) wide in a color that will complement your bouquet.  Double-sided ribbon is shiny on both sides -- both sides look identical. If you are unsure about how long a piece of ribbon you should use, follow the directions using a piece of inexpensive twine as a dry run and then cut your ribbon accordingly. Place the center flat against the back of the vase, right below the top rim. You should have a length of ribbon extending on each side of the vase. Your left hand should be holding the left side and your right hand should be holding the ribbon extending out on the right side of the vase. Twist the side that is on top so that it is underneath the other piece. Then, switch hands, and bring the ribbon around to the back of the vase again. Situate the ribbon right beneath your original starting point. You don't want the ribbon to overlap as you wrap the ribbon around the vase; line up the ribbon just beneath it. Bring the ribbon back around to the front. Repeat wrapping around and crossing over multiple times, moving lower down the vase with each wrap, until the ribbon is at the bottom front of the vase. You can create a very tight corset that covers most of the vase’s surface by increasing the amount of times you wrap the ribbon around the vase. tom of the vase. Go around the back of the vase one last time, and then tie the ribbon into a bow in the front. Trim any excess ribbon until the tails are the length that you want. Be sure to cut the tails of your ribbon diagonally or cut a V-shape out of the end for a banner trim.
Summary: Use a 6 to 18 ft (1.8 to 5.5 m) piece of double-sided satin ribbon. Find the approximate center of your piece of ribbon. Wrap the ribbon around to the front and cross 1 side over the other. Repeat the same crossover and twist motion in the back of the vase.  at the bottom of the vase.