Summarize the following:
You can either make your upper and lower magnet rotors with a rotor plate, epoxy, and 2" by 1" by ½" neodymium magnets, or you can buy this part prefabricated as part of a wind turbine kit or from a wind turbine part manufacturer. With the magnets facing up, fit the bottom plate of your magnet rotor onto the four studs you have fastened to your flange.  Whether you make your own or use a kit-made magnet rotor, always be careful when handling individual magnets or the magnet rotor plates. The magnetic forces of these are very strong and can cause serious injury if not handled with caution. Neodymium magnets are fairly brittle. You'll need 24 of these, 12 for your top magnet rotor and 12 for the bottom one, but you might want to purchase extra in case one breaks during construction of your plate. These magnets are available for purchase online. If you are using a kit that came with a magnet rotor plate, you will only need to fit the plate onto the studs as described previously. For a homemade magnet rotor, you'll want your magnets equally distributed around the edge of your rotor. To prevent misplacing a magnet and potentially ruining your rotor, draw a magnet placement template on card stock or paper.  Your template will occupy the middle of your rotor where the magnets will not be. Lines extending from the center to the edges of your template will indicate where magnets should be placed on the rotor. Tape can be used to hold your template in place and example templates can be found online. You should mark the polarity of your magnets before you begin placement. This can be done with a marker. If your magnets get jumbled together and you cannot tell the polarity, make a tester by gluing a weak magnet to a popsicle stick. Pass the "N" polarity side of your tester over the neodymium magnet. If you feel a push, the magnet is the same polarity. If you feel a pull, the polarity of the magnet you are testing is opposite. Use a pea-sized amount of epoxy when mounting your magnets. This should be applied to the bottom of each magnet before placing. Being careful to keep your fingers from between the magnet and rotor, slowly move the magnet to corner of the rotor plate. The magnet should grab onto the plate, and then you can slide it into the correct position using your template. You can use 3/8" (.375 cm) metal tubing cut into 1¼" (3.175 cm) long segments to create your spaces. You should cut these as accurately as you can. Slide your spacers over the studs sticking up from your magnet rotor.  Spacers that are unequal in length could create a slanted position for your upper magnet disk. This could be dangerous, and could also negatively impact the efficiency of your turbine. There should be a little over an inch (2.5 cm) of stud clearance above your spacers. This will allow hex nuts to fasten your upper magnet rotor, and all parts in between, together. A stator is a series of coiled wires that are a vital part of any generator. It can be bought as part of a wind turbine kit, from a wind turbine part manufacturer, or can be made on your own.The studs surrounding the central spindle shaft should stick up through the center of the stator, which should be centered with respect to the central spindle shaft.  Your stator will need three groupings of three coils of 24 gauge copper wire, with each coil having 320 windings of the copper wire. This can be time-consuming and difficult to make. If you decide to make your own stator, an online search for "how to make a wind turbine stator" will walk you through the process. You can construct a stator winder from scrap wood and nails. Connect two pieces of plywood with four nails so that there is a gap of about 1" (2.5 cm) between the two pieces of wood. Your nails should be spaced in a rectangular pattern that corresponds to the dimensions of your magnets. Then you can more easily wind the copper wire for your stator.  When making your own stator, be sure to keep track of the beginning and ending of your stator coils. Each coil must be wound in the same direction. You might want to consider putting a colored piece of electrical tape on the beginning of each end every coil. So that your coils don't unwind once you've finished, you should be taped together with electrical tape and secured with two-part epoxy. Allow your epoxy (and stator) to cure on wax paper for however long is indicated on your epoxy label. Use extreme caution; this is one of the most dangerous parts of the construction of your wind turbine. Stack four boards on your stator to either side of your central spindle, with the baseboards being thicker and your top boards thinner. 2 by 4 boards work well for upper boards.  Hold your upper magnet rotor so that your fingers are in the gap between your stacked boards, and slowly lower your upper rotor toward the lower one. Attempt to line up your upper rotor with the studs as you do so. The magnetic field should grab the upper disk and pull it onto the boards you have placed. Then, lower the upper magnet rotor onto the studs by sliding out your boards one at a time. First remove one upper board, then the other. Repeat this process with your lower boards to maneuver your upper magnet rotor into place. Then screw hex nuts onto your studs to fasten the rotor. Once this is complete, your upper rotor should be resting on the spacers with a small amount of the studs protruding from the top of it. You may have to wiggle your boards back and forth to work each free of the upper magnet rotor. The magnetic force will be very powerful.
Place your lower magnet rotor onto the studs. Make a magnet rotor, if necessary. Place spacers on your studs. Place your stator on top of your lower magnet rotor. Make a stator winder for homemade stators. Place your upper magnet rotor.