The Dark Vengeance box set comes with small missions ideal for learning the game. If you do not have the box set, choose one of the Eternal War missions in your Rulebook. These will set the story for your battle, and explain how to win the mission. Read the mission carefully, since it can add extra rules for how you place terrain and deploy units. Avoid the Maelstrom of War missions for now, which add extra Objectives in the middle of the game. Each player picks one character model in his army to be a Warlord. That unit has the Warlord Trait listed in its entry. If it does not have any Warlord Traits listed, roll on the Warlord Trait table in the Rulebook. It has that Warlord Trait for this battle.  You lose the Warlord Trait bonus if that unit dies. If you have any Psyker units, each one generates psychic powers. Check the unit's Codex entry to see which psychic disciplines it knows. For each Mastery Level, choose a discipline and roll on that discipline's chart to see what power the unit has this battle. If you don't like, it, switch to the discipline's Primary power instead. You can play on any flat surface. A 6 x 4 foot board is the most common size, but if you have small armies (500 points) you can use an area as small as 4 x 4. Terrain is optional, but highly recommended, and can be placed anywhere that all players agree on. This can be purchased warhammer terrain or homemade terrain.  Warhammer rules always use inches. 12 inches = 1 foot. You don't even have to play on a rectangular board, but most people prefer to. Check the mission for deployment rules. If there aren't any, use any of the deployment zones in the Rulebook. (For example, the two players pick opposite sides of the board and must place their units within 12 inches of that side.) Roll dice to see who deploys first. That player puts down all his units, then the second player puts down all her units. If you can't fit all your units in your deployment zone, read the "Reserves" section of the Rulebook. Whoever deployed first gets to choose whether he goes first or second. (First is usually better.) If he chose to go first, the second play can roll a die. If it comes up 6, she "Seizes the Initiative" and goes first instead. Most missions will tell you how long the game will last, and how to decide who wins at the end of it. If your mission doesn't, try these suggested rules:  The game ends in five turns. Earn 1 victory point for each completely destroyed enemy unit. Slay the Warlord: Earn 1 point for removing the enemy warlord First Blood: Earn 1 point if you were the first to destroy a unit. Linebreaker: Earn 1 point if you have a unit within 12 inches of the enemy table edge at end of game. If the mission has objective markers, players take turns placing them. The markers must be at least 6 inches from the table edge, and 12 inches from each other.  To control an objective (and earn victory points), you must control all units within 3 inches of the objective. If you have a Battle Forged Army, some detachments will have the Objective Secured ability. Units in these detachments can control an objective even if an enemy unit is nearby, unless the enemy has the same ability.

Summary: Choose a mission. Choose an army and warlord. Set up the battlefield. Deploy your army. See who goes first. Check the victory condition. Understand controlling objectives.


Before taking your baitcasting reel out for the first time, it’s a good idea to adjust the drag and tension settings to a level that’s comfortable for you. You can do this by turning the magnetic wheels on the backside of the rod just above the grip until you get just the right feel. That way, the line will peel effortlessly off the reel when you go to cast.  Baitcasting reels make use of a centrifugal braking system and a tension knob, which creates drag when the line is cast. If you’ve never cast with a baitcasting rod before, set the resistance wheel to 9. A higher level of resistance will offer greater safety and control for your first few attempts. Once you've gained a little experience, a lower setting will enable you to cast effortlessly and with greater distance.  Baitcasting rods feature a complex design, and it can be easy to throw the settings out of balance if you’re not careful. For this reason, it’s best to have them worked on by a qualified professional. Turn the reel crank clockwise to shorten the line and counterclockwise to lengthen it. Get your bait or lure hanging about 1 ft (0.30 m) from the end of the rod to ensure maximum leverage and momentum on the cast. Positioning the reel mechanisms so that they’re facing upwards will allow you to use your wrist to get a good snap on the cast. Hold your thumb at a slight angle on the outer edge of the spool rather than pressing it flat against the line. This will keep you from accidentally obstructing the spool and give you more control over the flow of the line during the cast. As with spincasting rods, most fishermen cast and reel baitcasting rods with the same hand. If you decide to perform both actions with the same hand, you’ll need to switch your grip after you cast. Hitting the spool release button disengages the spool and allows it to turn freely during the cast, making longer casts possible. Once you’ve hit the reel spool release, place your thumb over the exposed spool wheel to keep the spool from unwinding.  On most baitcasting reels, you’ll find a narrow button or bar on the back of the reel handle just below the reel spool that you can quickly find with your thumb. On older models, the spool release may be located on the outer spool-side edge of the rod instead. Raise the tip of the rod off to the side until it's pointing behind you at a slight angle. Crook your bent elbow out beside your face, like you’re about to throw a football.  It’s not necessary to hold your elbow or rod at any precise angle. Just get it into whatever position feels most comfortable to you. If the tip of your rod dips down to waist level or below, you're probably holding it too low. Try raising it slightly so that it sits at about shoulder height when you go to cast. Reverse the path of the rod with a quick whip-like motion to initiate the cast. As you take your thumb off the spool, your bait or lure will go zooming in the direction of your target, causing the line to unwind freely. Complete the cast with your rod pointing in front of you in the 10 o’clock position.  Keep your arm relaxed and bent through the movement. Casting with a baitcaster is more about finesse than force. Instead of trying to throw out your bait or lure, let its own weight carry it forward effortlessly. Press your thumb lightly against the spinning spool to “feather” the line, or slow it down smoothly and gradually. Try to make sure it has stopped turning completely before it touches down in your target area.  Another reason most anglers use their dominant hand to cast a baitcasting rod is that it gives them more control over the reel spool wheel.  If you don’t brake your line, it will continue unraveling after your bait hits the water. This can result in a tangle of overrun line (sometimes known as a “bird’s nest”), which you’ll have to straighten out before you can retrieve your lure. Go ahead and move the rod over to your opposite hand if you want to reel your line in with the same hand you cast with.
Summary: Adjust the reel’s drag and tension. Reel your lure in 12–15 inches (30–38 cm) from the rod tip. Turn the rod so the reel crank and spool are on top. Grip the rod with your thumb resting over the reel spool. Press the reel spool release button with the thumb of your casting hand. Bring your casting arm up and back toward your shoulder. Sweep the rod forward while removing your thumb from the spool wheel. Brake the reel spool with your thumb just before it reaches the water.