Q: Wash your hair first, then pat it dry with a towel. Hold the hair dryer above your head, and aim the nozzle down at your sides as you blow dry your hair.  Set the style afterwards with some hair wax. Add a flat, wide directional nozzle to your hairdryer to make the process more effective and give you more control over the direction of the air flow. There is no need to wash it more often than that. Not only can over-washing affect the texture of your hair, but it will also remove any styling products that you applied to the sides. If you remove these styling products, the sides will poof out. Not only can they look stylish and keep you warm during the colder months, they will also help keep down the sides and prevent them from poofing out.  Make your hair look longer by parting it down the middle before you put the hat on. If you don't like wearing hats that much, try leaving it on for about 2 hours; after you take it off, your hair should be flatter along the sides and not so poofy. Rather than combing your hair back, try a middle or side part instead. This works best when the sides are still short, but you can use this technique after you've flattened the sides with a hairdryer.  If the sides of your hair are starting to get long, you can keep them flat by applying some hair gel and using the palm of your hand to smooth the gel downwards into your hair. Use the handle of a rat-tail comb to make the parts nice and neat.
A: Blow dry your sides down to prevent them from poofing out. Wash your hair every 2 to 3 days. Wear caps and beanies as an alternative. Change up the way you part your hair to conceal the sides.

Q: To start with, you should line up two of your squares side by side. These will be the squares you join first.  It might be a wise idea to lay out all your squares first, however, so that you can see how everything will flow together. All the squares should be lined up with the right side facing up. It is also recommended that you start with the bottom pair of squares in the middle row of your overall project. This method will create another flexible joining seam, but unlike the whip stitch, this stitch will be hidden from both sides of the finished project. Thread a large darning needle with yarn. Insert one end of the yarn through the eye of the needle and pull enough of it through to prevent the needle from becoming un-threaded during the joining process.  Do not knot the yarn at this point in time. Use yarn that is slightly thinner than the yarn you used to make your granny squares. Pick up the right-hand square of your first pair. Slide the needle up and through the bar on the edge of the square in the bottom left side of that square. The "bar" refers to the connecting thread lying between the front and back pieces of yarn of the square. This bar can only be seen from the side of the square. Pick up the square that goes to the direct left of the first square in your sequence. Weave the needle up and through the bar on the bottom right side of this square. Do not tighten the two squares together yet. Weave the needle up and through the next bar along the shared edge of the first square. Then, weave it up and through the next bar along the shared edge of the second square.  Continue sewing through the bars on both edges to connect the two squares together along one shared edge. Leave the stitches loose as you sew initially to make the process easier. Grab both hanging ends of the joining yarn. One should hang from the bottom and the other should hang off the top. Pull the top end up and the bottom end down to tighten the seam and draw the two squares closer together. With this step, the seam should become "invisible" or hidden in between the two squares. Grab the next two squares in your sequence and repeat the same procedure to join them together.  The next pair should connect to the top of the first pair. Use the yarn hanging off the top of the first pair to join the second pair together. Doing so will also connect the second pair to the first. When expanding the piece vertically, you need to do so in pairs, as you did when connecting the second pair to the first. When expanding the piece horizontally, you can do so by attaching a single square to the empty left or right side of the original square using another invisible stitch. When done, knot the yarn to the back edge of the final square.
A: Line up the squares. Thread your needle. Weave your needle into the bottom left edge of the first square. Weave your needle into the bottom right edge of the second square. Repeat along one edge. Tighten the joining stitch. Repeat with the next two squares. Attach additional squares horizontally or in vertical pairs.

Q: Flip your piece of coroplast over so your scores are face down. Slowly bend the walls up along the scores until the walls form a 90-degree angle to the base. Make sure the corners sit flush with one another. If the corners of your walls don’t line up, either trim them if they’re too long or tape additional coroplast if you need to fill the gap. Cut 6 in (15 cm) strips of duct tape with a pair of scissors. Use 1 strip in each corner of your coroplast base to hold the walls together. Place the tape on the outside of the coroplast so your guinea pigs can’t chew on it. Have a partner hold the walls up while you tape the corners so they’re less likely to fall apart. Put the coroplast on the bottom of the cage so they cover the grid. Push the coroplast base down into the cafe until it’s flush with the grid pieces underneath it. Cover the bottom of your new cage with aspen, kiln-dried pine, or wood pellet bedding so your guinea pigs can be comfortable in their new home. Since guinea pigs need places to sleep away from  light, provide igloo covers or plastic tunnels so they can hide.  Line sleeping or hiding areas with fleece so your guinea pigs are even more comfortable. Provide more than 1 hiding area if you’re housing multiple guinea pigs. Avoid using aspen shavings since the aromatic oils can cause severe respiratory problems. Transfer your guinea pig from its old cage to the new C and C cage you built. When you first put the guinea pig in the cage, let them explore and grow accustomed to their new surroundings for a day before interacting with them again.
A:
Fold the walls up along the scores. Duct tape the corners of the coroplast together. Set the coroplast into the grid cage. Provide bedding and hiding places for your guinea pig. Introduce your guinea pig to its new cage.