Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Turn the boat over. Attach the gunnels. Apply a second coat of clear varnish or paint. Sand, epoxy and paint the inside of the boat. Add seats. Give the boat time to dry.

Answer: Carefully turn the boat right side up and place it in a cradle or in slings. This is a good time to build a set of saw horses to set and cradle the canoe in so it won't move while you work on the inside. Gunnels are the top rails of the canoe, which are placed on the inside and outside edges on both sides of the canoe.  Gunnels give a completed look to the canoe, while also serving to protect the sides of the canoe as rub rails. Each gunnel should be about 1-1-1/4"x3/8-1/2" square, with the top outside and inside edges rounded over. Use epoxy and brass or bronze screws to attach the gunnels at the front 24-30" of the gunnels. You can use the epoxy and spring clamps to attach the gunnels to the canoe until the epoxy dries. At the stem ends on top of the canoe you can fit small decks, on top of the rails or between them, if you take the time and effort to make a good fit. Flush decks look the best. Keep in mind that you will have to do one or the other, as epoxy alone will not last when exposed to the sun. When you've finished painting or varnishing the outside, it's time to turn the canoe over and do the inside, clear coat or paint. Sand the inside of the boat, removing any drips or runs. Try to not sand through the top plywood layer.  When all the sanding is done, it's time to coat the inside of the boat with. For best results, do this in two or three thin layers of epoxy, waiting 24 hours between coats. When this is all done you can sand the last coat lightly with a 120 grit sandpaper and then a 220 grit to get a really smooth finish. Wipe away any dust, then paint or varnish the inside. You can add seats before or after you epoxy coat the inside of the boat.  All seats should be about 1-1-1/2" from the bottom of the canoe, not hanging from the gunnels. On a light canoe (such as this one) with a low freeboard, it's best to keep the center of gravity as low in the boat as possible. Let the whole thing set for about a week -- this gives the layers of epoxy and finish time to dry completely.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Microwave the cauliflower for 3 to 4 minutes. Leave the cauliflower in the microwave for 1 minute before you take it out. Drain water from the bowl.

Answer: If you like your cauliflower to have a little bite, cook it for 3 minutes. If you know you like cauliflower to be completely soft, microwave it for 4 minutes. Microwave the cauliflower on full power. The cauliflower will continue to cook as it rests. After 1 minute, wear oven mitts to remove the hot bowl and carefully lift the lid or covering off. Insert a fork into a floret to see if it's as tender as you want.  The steam in the bowl is very hot, so lift the lid away from your face. If the cauliflower isn't as soft as you want, cover the bowl and return it to the microwave. Heat the cauliflower for 1 minute and check it again. There might be a little water left in the bottom of the bowl. If there is, carefully pour the cauliflower into a fine-mesh strainer over a sink so the water drains.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Develop a regular cleaning process. Remove any obvious product from the brushes first. Choose anti-bacterial dish washing soap or body wash (the liquid kind works best). Repeat the process if there is still product on the brushes.

Answer: It’s a good idea to regularly wash your brushes. Some people even suggest you do so every day if you are a heavy makeup user. Once a week can work too.  Old makeup, sebum, and general debris in the air create a breeding ground for bacteria inside the nest of bristles of makeup brushes. Not only is this unsanitary and generally unsettling to most people, but it can potentially cause acne and irritation if used on your face again. Regardless of when you wear makeup, it is advisable that you regularly clean any brushes used to apply creams and liquids or that are used around the lips and rim of the eyes. This also preserves the longevity of your brushes. It will be easier to clean the brushes if you shake or wipe off any obvious makeup clumps from the brushes first.  Take off whatever product you can by hand (maybe flick the bristles or wipe them on something, like a paper towel) before rinsing the brushes thoroughly with warm water. This should remove the bulk of the product from the brushes. Clean your makeup brush as soon as you get the chance. It will be harder to clean the brushes if you let them dry with the product still on them. Cleaning your brushes is good for your skin. A small pea-sized amount in the palm of your hand should do. You could also use baby shampoo.  Put the brush into it, and run it back and forth in your palm, allowing the brush to mix with the soap and get into the bristles.   Do this until you get it foamy and can see product color in the suds. Rinse with clean water. Sometimes, you may need to wash a brush more than one time to get it clean.  Put more soap on the brushes, and wash them again. You could also put a squirt of soap in with some warm water, and leave your brush ends in it. Do not leave them in the water for more than an hour because it sometimes messes with the shape.  If you have wood handled brushes, leaving them in water too long could cause them to split.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Secure your work. File in only one direction. Cross file to remove material. Straight file for detail work. Draw file to finish a surface.

Answer:
It is important to secure your work with a vise or other clamp to keep it from moving around while you are filing. Mount the vise so that the stationary jaw extends slightly beyond the edge of your workbench, and be sure to place bolts in all the holes on the base of the vise and secure them with locking washers. Then, place the workpiece in the vise so that it is supported by the full clamping surface. You don’t want to use a back and forth motion with your file, as this will damage the file and likely your workpiece as well. Instead, only apply pressure on the forward stroke and lift the file away from the workpiece on the return stroke. For heavy cross filing, grab the handle of the file with the dominant hand and place the palm of the other hand on the end of the file. Angle the file diagonally to the work and press down firmly so that the file digs in and cuts the metal. Make long, slow strokes away from your body. Lift the file away from the surface on the return stroke to prevent dulling the file. For straight filing, use a small file rather than a large one. Grab the handle of the file with the dominant hand and place the fingers of the other hand on the end of the file. Point the file away from you and press it down firmly on your workpiece. Make long, slow strokes away from your body, and only file in one direction, rather than back and forth. For draw filing, place your hands on either side of the file with a gap slightly larger than your workpiece. Hold the file horizontally and make long, slow strokes away from your body with a firm pressure. Remember to only apply pressure on the forward stroke, and to remove the file on the backward stroke.