Write an article based on this "Use seeds instead of seedlings. Choose a suitable location. Amend the soil. , if necessary."
article: Most kidney bean plants do not survive the transplanting process, so you should plan on directly sowing the seeds instead of getting starter plants. Kidney beans need full sun in order to thrive, so you should plan on growing them in a spot that gets at least six hours of direct sunlight a day, if not more.  If possible, find a spot with soil that is naturally somewhat loose. Loose soil drains water more effectively, and this is crucial if you want to grow a healthy kidney bean plant. If you notice that the water settles or pools in a given area when it rains, you should consider choosing another location. Practice crop rotation from year to year. Do not plant kidney beans in soil where other legumes have grown within the past three years. The soil needs to be fairly light and loose so that water can drain. If your soil is too heavy, you will need to amend it with enough organic material to even it out. The pH of the soil also needs to be near neutral.  Good soil amendments include manure and compost. Either option will help loosen the overall density of the soil while also providing plenty of nutrition for the plant as it starts out. Amend the soil by mixing these extra components in with a trowel or small garden rake a few weeks before you plan to plant. The pH of the soil should be between 6.0 and 7.0. Consider mixing a powdered inoculant into the soil, as well. This is a type of natural, healthy bacterium that makes it easier for beans to absorb nitrogen during the earliest and most crucial stages of growth. is, if necessary. While many popular kidney bean varieties are bush beans, there are a few pole bean varieties. Pole beans grow vertically, so you will need to fix a stake or trellis to the growing location if you want these varieties to produce their maximum yield.

Write an article based on this "Hand pull small privet. Use a weed wrench. Hammer the bark of larger stems. Know the limits of hand cutting. Control privet growth by brush mulching."
article: You can remove seedlings and small saplings by hand pulling them, but this is only an option if the privet is taller than 15 inches (40 cm) and thinner than your wrist.  Pull the privet as early as possible to prevent it from producing seeds. Spring or early summer is ideal. Also note that the process is usually easiest when the soil is moist. Grab the privet stem at its base. Firmly pull it straight up and without twisting it. Twisting the privet can cause the roots to break, and if any roots remain in the soil, the plant can regrow. If the plant refuses to budge, it might be a sprout from a lateral root instead of a new plant. You'll need to try a different removal option if this is the case. If you're dealing with privet saplings thinner than 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter, you might be able to use a weed wrench to remove it.  Weed wrenches are most effective on privet with only a single stem, but you might be able to use one on multi-stemmed privet, as well. Place the mouth of the wrench around the base of the privet, then rock the long handle back and forth until the tool yanks up the plant. Pulling privet in this manner will disturb the soil, so you should avoid using this option in areas with plants you wish to preserve or when privet lies along stream banks and slopes. Once privet becomes wider than the average adult wrist, hammering is the most effective way to remove it without the use of chemicals.  In late winter, use a hammer and chisel to remove the bark from a 4 inch (10 cm) section of the trunk. Ideally, this section should lie above ground but beneath the first branch. Throughout the remaining growing period, continue wounding the bark to maintain this blank patch. Within a year or less, the privet should lose its foliage and gradually die off. After the privet dies, you can cut the trunk and dig up the stump. You can cut young privet by hand using standard weed cutters and similar tools, but when used alone, the privet will regrow.  If you do cut the privet, trim it as close to the ground as possible early in the growing season. Stumps re-sprout at a rapid pace, so you may need to cut the privet multiple times throughout the season. Alternatively, you can cut the privet and apply an herbicide to the exposed plant. Doing so should kill the privet. See the "Cut and Paint Treatment" section for more detail. Brush mulching won't be enough to permanently remove the privet, but it should help keep it under control.  This option can work especially well when dealing with dense patches of privet. Use brush mulching in the spring, summer, or winter. Avoid brush mulching in the fall since the privet may spread seed during that season. Drive the brush mulcher over the privet patch, mowing down each individual privet plant as you work. Any remaining stumps should be hidden beneath the resulting mulch, and when the privet regrows, it should do so evenly, making it easier to remove with other methods.

Write an article based on this "Gather materials. If you haven't already, craft your wooden planks and stick."
article:
Making signs means getting wood. Use an axe or sword to chop down a nearby tree. In order to make one sign, you will need:  6 wooden planks 1 stick If you already have your raw materials, skip straight to the next step. If you don't know how to make wood into wooden planks, and finally, into sticks, read on.  Craft wooden planks out of wood. One block of wood, crafted, will turn into 4 wooden planks. In order to make one sign, you'll therefore need at least 2 blocks of wood to craft. Craft sticks out of two wooden planks. Place two wooden planks in a vertical line on your crafting table to yield 4 sticks.