INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Scales are expressed as ratios and differ from map to map. The scale, printed in the upper right corner of the map, will look something like 1:100,000. A ratio of 1:10,000 indicates that every 1 in (2.5 cm) the map equals 10,000 in (25,000 cm) in the real world. Charts with smaller scales provide an up-close view, depicting more area details and markers.  If you’re familiar with land maps, the scale works the same way there. A harbor chart is an example of a small scale chart. Navigators need a close view of the harbor with all the obstructions and other details. Larger charts show land and waterways but few additional details. Look in the upper right corner of the map near the scale. You will see the unit of measurement printed in big letters. You need to know this because charts use all sorts of different measurements. Your chart could include feet, fathoms, or meters. In the U.S., charts generally use feet or fathoms. However, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) has begun converting its charts to meters for the sake of international consistency. The black numbers printed on the chart represent water depth. Each number indicates the “mean lower low water” (MLLW) in an area. This is the average water depth at low tide, so most of the time the water is deeper than what you see on a chart. If you see a negative number, that means the water depth in the area is typically less than what is listed on the chart. Numbers written in fathoms have a unique look to them, so they are easy to spot. A fathom listing often consists of a pair of numbers. The first number indicates the number of fathoms. The second number, which will be a small subscript, is the number of additional feet. For example, a listing of 0 and 3 means a depth of 0 fathoms, 3 feet. A listing of 3 and 2 means 3 fathoms, 2 feet, or 20 feet total. For uniformity and simplicity, many modern charts use meters. This can be tough to understand if you’re used to measurements in feet or fathoms. Multiplying by 3 is a quick way to get a relatively accurate estimate of the water’s depth.  For example, multiply a listing of 6 meters by 3 to estimate it as being at least 18 feet deep. The actual depth is 6 metres (20 ft), so it isn’t completely accurate, but it is helpful for avoiding shallow areas. If the depths are listed in feet, you can also divide them by 3 to quickly convert them to meters.

SUMMARY: Use the scale indicator to track distance on a chart. Find the unit of measurement used to indicate water depth. Read the chart numbers to figure out the water’s lowest depth. Multiply fathoms by 6 to measure depths by feet. Multiply meter measurements by 3 to convert them to feet.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: This cleaning solution works on all copper quickly, like pennies and copper bottom cookware. If you don't have this brand, another metal cleaner (like Brasso) should work as well.

SUMMARY: Obtain some Bar Keeper's Friend.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Your starting position on the chart is listed in a coordinate system of horizontal and vertical values.  Instead of an X and Y coordinate, this might be listed as a number of steps Left or Right (on either side of the 50 yard line) and a number of steps in front of or behind the hash line that runs parallel to the Visitor-Home sidelines.  Drill charts are read from the viewpoint of the director. If the chart says “in front of” it means toward the director. If the chart says “behind” it means away from the director's viewpoint. In order for the marching band to look uniform, it's important that everybody moves about the same distance with each step they take. Drill chart instructions will be listed in steps.  The standard marching style is called 8-to-5, which means there are 8 steps for every 5 yards. Since there will be 5-yard lines on a standard football field, it creates a grid marchers can follow, counting 8 steps between each line. You can also think of each step as being an average of 22.5 inches, since there should be 8 steps in 5 yards. This measurement is often used as a standard. More important than knowing the average size of a standard step while you're marching is to be moving at the same pace as those around you. Each position in a drill chart corresponds to a count in the music. As the song progresses, you will move across the field into a new position. You will start on the count of 0 and generally move in increments of 8.

SUMMARY: Find your position number. Move in equal sized steps. Follow the count.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Especially when you're a beginner you can screw up with cutting the glass or grinding it down. This will leave you with gaps between your pieces. Compensate for these inaccuracies by filling the gaps between your glass pieces with copper solder. Solder as you would normally. There are lots of things that can go wrong with scoring your glass and most of these have to do with how you're standing, how much pressure you're using, and what sort of a cutter you're using.  Make sure that you're standing for long scores. This will give you better reach by utilizing your shoulder and upper body in the scoring motion. For small scores, make sure that you stay seated so you can concentrate on following the marker score line. Use the right glass cutter. You do not want to use a five dollar cheap glass cutter as it doesn't cut clear, thin glass very well and it certainly won't cut much harder art glass. Get one that it has a carbide head, because the oil lubrication is very useful. Make sure that you apply even pressure throughout your scoring. Remember you should hear a zipping sound as you score. Also good to remember: Opalescent glass requires more pressure, Cathedral glass requires less pressure. Like scoring, soldering your glass can yield some problems if you're not doing it correctly. Make sure that the heat is correct, that the tip of the soldering iron is the right size for the project, and that the flux you're using is good for higher temperatures.  Using the wrong kind of flux can lead to charring, called 'black tip syndrome.' When this happens it means that the tip of the soldering iron turns black and re-tinning becomes impossible. Use the right size soldering iron tip. Make sure that you know what the width of the glass you're working with is and have the tip and the copper spaced accordingly.

SUMMARY:
Deal with gaps between your pieces. Avoid problems with scoring your glass. Deal with problems while soldering.