If tons of resin have built up over time, give each affected piece time to absorb the cleaning solution. Let them soak in the alcohol for up to an hour, or even longer if necessary, before proceeding. Give the resin’s bond a chance to break apart and weaken. First, double-check the bag’s seal to avoid spills. Then shake each bag hard for 30 to 40 seconds, or even longer if needed. This will shake the loosened resin free, and also cause the abrasive salt to scratch away at the more stubborn bits. If desired, pour the solution from each bag into a sealable container for reuse in the future. Then, as long as your pipe wasn't too dirty to begin with, take each piece and rinse it under hot running water if your pipe was only slightly dirty at the start. With the base, pour water in through the mouthpiece so it drains out of the hole(s) at its bottom to avoid unpleasant aftertastes where youre lips will touch it. If your pipe was very soiled at the start, don't rinse it off in the sink. Instead, fill a container with hot water and submerge each piece to rinse them off. Then empty the dirty water into the toilet and flush. Avoid using the sink’s drain, since resin is more likely to stick to these pipes and cause future clogs. Once you’ve rinsed off each piece, give it a look over. Expect it to possibly need more than one bag-and-shake if it had a lot of resin to start. If the inside of the base and its tube appear particularly dirty, try: Plugging its holes with cotton balls or similar materials, adding salt and rubbing alcohol to it directly, and shaking it vigorously with your hands covering all openings. Inspect each piece for any crud that may have clung on during rinses. Soak q-tips in rubbing alcohol and use these to remove them. If these are too short to reach inside any piece, improvise by attaching cotton swabs or balls to a chopstick or something similar. Once everything is cleaned to your satisfaction, put all your parts back into place. Give it a final rinse under hot running water. It may seem like overkill, but this will reduce the chance of any unpleasant aftertaste.
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One-sentence summary -- Soak very soiled pieces. Shake each bag vigorously. Empty and rinse lightly soiled pipes. Soak very dirty pipes in a container. Repeat if needed. Wipe away residue. Put your pipe back together and rinse.

Q: You’ll get better tips if you look presentable. Wear clothes without stains or rips, if possible, and make sure your hair is neat. Some guys even say they get better tips when they are clean-shaven, so you could consider getting rid of your beard if you’re not too attached to it. Make an “X” or an arrow that points to all three lines on the receipt (total, tip, and signature). Highlighting just the tip line is tacky, but pointing out all three may make a customer more likely to fill in that tip line rather than leave it blank. Rather than giving a five dollar bill back when someone hands you $20 and their total was $15, give them back five ones. This way, they’ll be more likely to give you a couple bucks, rather than stuffing that $5 back in their pocket. Some people add a tip to the bill on a credit card at the time they order. Though it may be tempting to leave this order for last, since you know you’ve already bagged a tip, don’t do that. Give them the respect they deserve and deliver their pizza promptly. They’ll remember your effort, and will be more likely to tip you well the next time, too. Some people order pizza often and may have tipped you well in the past. Try to remember these customers, and treat them well. Ask how they are doing, or suggest new menu items you think they may like. A little extra effort can go a long way to ensuring you always receive a good tip from these customers. While you may not be able to offer discounts or give out free pizza or sodas, you can offer extra items. Bring extra napkins, plates, or seasonings, such as red peppers or parmesan cheese. Offering these to your customers when you arrive shows them that you are prepared and that you care about their order and experience.
A: Look your best. Highlight the tip line. Give ones back as change. Treat customers well if they’ve already tipped you. Remember good tippers. Offer extra items.

Article: In most cases, the color paint code in Ford vehicles is written on a manufacturer’s label located on the driver's side front door panel, usually along the rear edge of the door. If you open your door and look along the side of the door, towards the bottom you should see a manufacturer's label. This will contain the color code.  These labels are rectangular and may be printed with a Ford watermark and/or a patterned background. They typically say “MANUFACTURED (or MFD.) BY FORD MOTOR CO. (or COMPANY)” at the top. Modern manufacturing labels typically have a barcode printed on them, while older examples may not. The majority of Fords will have the manufacture's label on the front door panel. However, it may be on the rear part of the front driver’s side door jamb. Open the front car door on the driver's side. Look at the small ridge around the doorframe on the inside of the car, usually blocked when the door is closed. The manufacturer's label may be towards the bottom of the jamb, on the rear side (closer to the back of the car). Once you've found the manufacturer's label, you can use this to locate the color code. The color code is found below the bar code and is usually marked by 2 characters, which can be either numbers or letters. The 2 digits are listed above or next to the words "exterior paint colors." For example, if you saw the letters "PM" written above "exterior paint colors," this would mean the color code is PM. Some Ford color codes—especially for older vehicles—may be longer than 2 characters. They may also consist of a mixture of letters and numbers. For example, the color code for the shade “Maroon,” used on the 1964 Ford Fleet, is MX705160.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Look on the driver's side front door panel. Check the driver's side front door jamb. Locate the color code on the manufacturer's label.