You may want to establish your male dog as a stud that is suitable for breeding so you can find female mates for him more easily. Part of doing this is ensuring you know the ideal female mate for your dog. Make sure the dam complements your dog. Go for a dam who has a strong bloodline and qualities that will suit your dog’s qualities, such as physical appearance or level of intelligence.  You should also look for a female dog that has a temperament that is calm, collected, and friendly, as this often indicates she will be a good mating partner. Make sure the female dog is in good health and does not have any genetic issues. This will ensure the resulting litter is free of health problems or deficiencies. Though not required, registering your dog with the American Kennel Club (AKC) will let other owners know that your dog is recognized as a suitable option for breeding. You will need to have certified ownership of your dog to register him with the AKC. You can find out more on registering your dog with the American Kennel Club by looking at their website or by contacting them by phone. Once you have decided to make your dog available for breeding, you should draw up a stud contract. A stud contract should cover where the breeding will occur, as well as outline the stud fees, which will be set by you, the male dog’s owner. You may request a cash fee, a “pick of the litter,” or one or two puppies from the resulting litter. The contract should be signed by you and by the owner of the female dog before the breeding takes place.  If you are unsure how much to charge in the stud contract, talk to your dog’s breeder or the American Kennel Club for guidance. If your dog has not been used as a stud before, you may charge the female dog owner a nominal fee to cover health checks and fertility checks as part of the contract.
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One-sentence summary -- Determine your dog’s ideal female mate. Register your dog with the American Kennel Club. Create a stud contract.

Q: In the induction phase of Atkins you should eat one mid-morning and one mid-afternoon snack. You may not feel the need to snack if you have opted to eat four or five small meals during the day rather than three main meals. You should ensure that you don't go more than four to six hours during waking hours without eating anything. A hot drink or broth can used be an alternative to a solid snack. Most of the snack options are quick and easy to prepare. For example, it doesn't take long to make a cheese and ham roll-up, or hollow out an avocado. You may, however, need to prepare these snacks in the morning before you go to work or school. Always try to do this on the same day as you eat them, or the night before, so they are as fresh as possible.  For some snack options, such as salads, you can prepare larger amounts and eat them over a couple of days to save time. Pickles (no sugar) are also a quick snack option. Having readily prepared snacks in the fridge, already set aside in the appropriate portions, will help to you control what you eat very closely and keep track of your consumption. Snacking can often lead to problems with any diet, so it's particularly important that you monitor what you eat closely and stick to the programme outlined. Try to vary your snacks so it doesn't become too repetitive and boring. Experiment with different combinations and different ingredients to broaden your horizons.  There are some Atkins branded protein bars and shakes that are low in carbohydrates and make good snacks, but always check the label for the net carb content. Some bars are designed as snacks, others as meals.  Don't become stuck on protein bars and shakes, try to keep as much balance in your diet as possible. Remind yourself that the induction phase is short-term, and that you will be adding in more variety in the next phase. It is especially important that you drink enough water in the induction phase of the diet. The Atkins diet has a strong diuretic effect so you need to make sure you do not become dehydrated. You should drink eight glasses of water a day. Each glass should contain eight ounces of water.
A: Know how often to snack. Prepare your snacks. Stick to the programme. Keep up your water intake.

Article: The temptation when you rescue an emaciated, or very thin, horse is to feed her a lot to help him regain weight. However, this is not as simple as it sounds because suddenly providing an abundance of food causes digestive problems and is likely to trigger potentially serious health issues such as colic or laminitis. Weight gain has to be mapped out over several months. It must be done carefully and methodically. The ideal food for helping the horse regain weight is forage (good quality hay) and the amount you feed the horse should be the amount recommended for her current body weight, plus 10 or 15%.  Use a measuring tape to assess the horse’s current weight, and cross reference this with a body weight-based feeding chart. If you are concerned that you are not feeding the horse the right amount, talk to a vet. After a period of starvation, the horse’s stomach will need to repopulate the good bacteria that aids digestion. Feeding the horse a large meal will put a lot of pressure on the horse’s stomach that could lead to digestion problems. Rather than giving the horse her allotted amount of feed all at once, space the amount of feed you give her out over the course of the day. This will keep the horse from gorging herself. Forage, or good quality hay, is the ideal food for a horse in the initial stages of rehabilitation because it is high in fiber, takes time to chew, and it difficult to bolt down. Bolting a lot of feed quickly can lead to choke, or a blockage of partially chewed, dry food in the esophagus.  Alfalfa hay is high in protein and low in carbohydrates, which can help to keep the horse energized. If the horse is eating hay well, increase her daily ration by about one flake a day, and after a week of eating well, consider allowing her free access to hay. Some horses won't eat hay; if this is the case with your horse, try hay cubes or roughage chunks. These can trick the horse into thinking she is eating a concentrate, which will make her more likely to eat. If the horse if having trouble eating because of dental problems (for example, dropping food or drooling) try soaking the hay cubes to soften them. If the horse is not gaining weight on hay, then add beet pulp or rice bran to her diet. Both foods are higher in calories than forage but are also high in fiber. Avoid beet pulp that contains molasses as it will cause a "sugar rush" or a wash of sugar into the bloodstream that could overexcite your horse. Vegetable oils are an easy way to add calories to your horse’s feed. Most horses will eat 1 to 2 cups (250 ml each) of oil mixed into the food, though some horses may be picky. Try different types of oil, including: Canola, cocosoya, and standard vegetable oil. Although concentrates are high in calories, they are also high in the starches and sugars that trigger metabolic problems such as insulin resistance, colic, and laminitis.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Resist the urge to give the horse a lot of food. Plan the weight gain out over several months. Feed your horse small, frequent meals. Feed your rehabilitating horse forage. Troubleshoot if the horse won’t eat hay. Add high calorie foods if the horse is not gaining weight with hay alone. Add oils to your horse’s meal to help her gain weight. Do not give your horse concentrates.