Don't trust that your studs will all be on 16" or 24" centers, as they are supposed to be. Some studs are 1/2" off in either direction, sometimes due to sloppy carpentry work by the builder. A good idea is to run masking tape along the floor while you have the studs exposed and mark the center line of each stud with a high visibility marker. Again, it's likely that you will have to cut some pieces of drywall in order to center the end pieces onto a stud. When cutting drywall, use a T-square and razor knife to score a line on one side of the drywall paper. Place your knee on the opposite side of the cut and quickly pull the drywall piece towards you while at the same time pushing your knee outward, snapping the drywall in a clean line. Clean up the remaining paper along the newly formed crease with your razor. Do this right before you intend to hang the drywall. Start in the center and work outwards. Drive in five screws for each stud.  Extra screws may help in some situations, but are usually overkill; they will require extra mudding and sanding that may detract from the overall finish. Consider using a spring-loaded drywall screw dimpler. They are designed to automatically countersink each drywall screw to precisely the same depth before ratcheting the screw bit, as a sign to quit and back off the drill. Continue installing drywall over window and door openings. You'll be able to trim off excess drywall later. At the same time, be mindful that no seams line up with a door or window corner, and do not fasten panels to framing around openings yet. A good practice when installing drywall over protruding pipes is to place the drywall against the pipe and lightly tap with a flat block of wood to dimple the back. Next, pull the drywall away and use a drywall circle cutter or drywall hole saw to cut a perfect hole along the dimple. This should be much easier to finish than if you punch out a large hole that requires 3-4 coats of mud to finish. Start the next row at the edge of the wall, next to the previous row. Fasten the drywall down around the window or door, and then cut out the proper section using a rotary drill or drywall saw.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary -- Mark the location of all studs using a stud finder. Measure the wall against a piece of drywall to determine whether its end piece will fit in the center of a stud. Run a bead of glue down each strapping or joist over which drywall will be placed. With help, hoist the drywall on the wall, and using the drill, install five screws in the stud at the center of the drywall panel. Use a drywall saw to make cuts along irregular openings such as arches. Continue gluing, hoisting, and screwing drywall in this manner until one row of the ceiling has been completely covered. Cut out any drywall that has been hung over window or door frames.


A lock can be manually disengaged by taking the knob apart, and even quality locks won’t stop you if the door is off its hinges. Doorknobs will require a screwdriver or paperclip; hinges will need a nail and a pounding tool, like a hammer or rock.  Borrow these items from a neighbor or snag them from your tool shed. If your car is open, you might have some emergency tools there, too. The kind of screwdriver you need will depend on the kind of door you have. Knobs and hinges are often fastened with Phillips head (cross slot) screws. Even if you don’t have a screwdriver available, you may be able to remove fasteners with a suitably thin, sturdy tool, like a butter knife or a bent pin. Ideally, you’ll be able to see mounting screws connecting the knob to the door. These can be simply unfastened with your screwdriver to take apart the knob. Pull the knob free of the door, and disengage the latch with your fingers.  Depending on the kind of lock installed in your door, you may be able to disengage the lock immediately after removing the knob, or you may need to remove a secondary mounting plate. Some knobs may only have a screw fastening the knob to the spindle that both knobs are attached to. To remove these, loosen the screw on the metal connecting the knob to the door. Some knobs may have a pin-size hole in the front of the knob instead of mounting screws. Insert a thin piece of metal, like a straightened paperclip, as deep into the hole as possible while twisting the knob and pushing on the door to open it. In some situations, you may find that fastening hardware for knobs, like screws and bolts, are only accessible from the inside. The hinges are usually the most vulnerable part of a door, requiring only a nail to bypass. Place a nail (or a similar item) at the bottom of the opening for a hinge pin. Then hit the nail with a tool (like a hammer or rock) to push the pin out. Do this for all hinges.  The hinge pins may be stiff when you remove them, even after they’ve been partially pushed out with a nail. For easier removal, use a screwdriver like a chisel under the rim of the pin head to pop it free. Much like knobs, doors that are well-installed may not have outside accessible hinge pins. You won’t be able to easily pop the door off its hinges if this is the case for you. Most sliding glass doors, opposed to traditional hinged doors, are not directly fastened to your home's structure. Many rest in a track and are locked in place, and by jumping the door out of the track, you can easily bypass it.  You may be able to jump a light sliding glass door by prying up and outward with a flathead screwdriver (or two), but a prybar or crowbar will work best. Be careful when trying to get your door to jump its track. If it falls, it could cause expensive damage. To make sliding doors in your home less vulnerable to break ins, you may want to secure your door with a security bar, like a wooden dowel.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary --
Lay hands on tools. Remove the knob by unfastening the mounting screws. Take off knobs without obvious mounting screws with a paperclip. Pop doors off their hinges when possible. Jump sliding glass doors off their track to gain access.