Now that the topside of your door is painted and dry, you should flip the door and repeat the painting process on the other side. This time, you should be mindful of:  Edges, where excess paint might drip from your roller and dribble onto the other side. Gaps in the wood. Some panels or wooden doors are constructed with some space or looseness where two pieces of wood form a seam. Paint these sections lightly with a paintbrush to prevent buildup on the opposite side. A second layer of paint can help bring out the luster in your paint, and can be especially useful at covering up any bleed through from your primer. Make sure that your paint is completely dry before applying the second coat. Now that both coats have been applied, you should inspect the door for any errant drips or thick spots. Use your paintbrush to smooth these out, and then consult your paint can to find the recommended wait time till dry.  Set an alarm so that you can check your door to see if it's done drying. If the paint is wet, damn, or feels poorly bonded, reset your timer and wait another 30 minutes. Do this until the paint feels dry. Depending on the quality of your paint and door, you may want to sand very lightly with fine grit sandpaper between coats. You may need a helper to do this, especially if the door is heavy or cumbersome. But now that you're satisfied with the paint job and the paint has fully dried on both sides, you can reinstall your door. With your helper:  Slide the door into place so that the door hinge slots into the wall hinge. Have your helper hold the door steady while you reinsert hinge pins. Use a hammer or the handle of your screwdriver to tap stubborn pins into place. Check the levelness of your door, if having difficulties. Holding the door at even a slight angle can make it impossible to reinsert hinge pins.
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One-sentence summary -- Paint the reverse side of your door. Apply a second layer of paint. Allow the door to dry completely. Lift the door back into its original position.


Open the window and/or run a fan. Wear non-porous gloves, a mask, and safety glasses. Chlorine bleach is an eye and skin irritant. The fumes can affect the respiratory tract. Adequate protection and ventilation are essential. Mix three parts water to one part chlorine bleach. Alternately, you can purchase a cleaning solution that contains some bleach.  If your grout is colored, using bleach may cause it to fade, especially if used regularly. You can repeat this method with a slightly higher concentration of bleach (for example, half bleach, half water) if the 3-to-1 ratio doesn’t work. Never attempt to mix other chemicals with diluted bleach. For example, ammonia – found in many cleaning agents – emits toxic fumes when mixed with bleach. Thoroughly wet any tiles in the area with warm water before using any bleach solution. Even if you’re just cleaning the grout, spatter will land on tiling. Pre-wetting tiles with water saturates them to limit their absorption of chemicals. Use a narrow brush such as an old, stiff toothbrush or any natural bristle or nylon brush. Scrub the grout with the solution in small sections. Bleach can lighten mold so that it isn’t visible. Scrubbing is needed to reach into grout’s pores and remove organic growth. Let the solution remain on each section of grout for about three minutes. Then rinse it clean with clear water. Letting bleach sit for more than a few minutes can cause staining, streaking, or even breakage to tile. Buff away any remaining moisture with clean cloths. Leave the window open or fan running until the grout feels totally dry.
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One-sentence summary -- Ensure proper safety and ventilation. Make a diluted bleach solution. Wet tiles with water. Apply the bleach solution. Soak and rinse the grout. Dry the grout.


The cornea is the transparent capsule on the front portion of the eye globe, through which light passes to reach the lens and pass onward to the retina. Think of it like a clear skin over the eye (that is the full thickness of the globe). The cornea is actually made up of stacks of clear cells, arranged in layers, much like bricks in a wall. An ulcer is like a burst blister on the skin of the eye or an erosion or crater sitting on the surface of the eye.  In the case of the Boston terrier, the ulcer may develop because of a problem called corneal dystrophy. This is a problem where the glue holding the cells together fails, like not enough mortar between the bricks. This allows sheets of cells to lift up and peel away. Corneal ulcers are painful. If they erode too deeply the eyeball is severely weakened and it can burst, causing the dog to lose that eye. A cataract refers to a cloudiness of the lens. The lens is the structure which focuses light on the retina. It is a transparent sack of jelly and sits just behind the colored part of the eye, the iris. It is a genetic condition that can cause a cataract to develop at as young as 12 months of age.  Juvenile cataracts can develop distressingly quickly, sometimes in as little as 24 hours. If the cataract is very dense, you see a bright white object sitting in the middle of the eye, where the black pupil normally is.  It is thought that one in 10 Boston terriers will suffer from this condition during their life.  Sudden formation of a juvenile cataract is sometimes associated with inflammation within the eye, so the eye is sore and inflamed. If the cataract is very dense it blocks the passage of light, and although the retina is healthy, the dog is blind because the light is prevented from penetrating that deep into the eye. Part of the reason that Boston terriers, and other purebred dogs, have so many eye problems is because dogs that have these problems already are being bred with each other. It increases the likelihood of these conditions if one or both parents have a genetic condition already. Fortunately, if good breeding practices are observed (for instance not breeding dogs with these conditions) the issues could be reduced greatly.  For example, there is now a genetic screening test available for juvenile cataracts. In the case of juvenile cataracts, prevention is better than a cure. If all breeding stock were screened, and only negative dogs were bred, the problem could be brought under control. When you adopt a dog from a breeder, as to see the medical records of the dog's parents. If they have had proper veterinary care and have been screened for eye problems, then the chances that your prospective dog will have eye problems are much lower.
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One-sentence summary --
Understand what a corneal ulcer is. Learn about hereditary cataracts. Understand how breeding practices can increase or decrease the chances of eye problems.