Q: For instance, if you have a very childish looking dresser, position it somewhere in the room that hides or deemphasizes it. Consider revamping childish furniture, as well. A new coat of paint in a different color can make a world of difference on even the most insignificant of items.  Always get permission before you permanently alter any furniture in your room. If possible, try to get pieces of furniture that match each other or are part of the same set. Add vibrant accent rugs and well-constructed bean bag chairs to your floor to provide an additional pop of color and to give the space a little more texture. Stack a few bright throw pillows on your bed and nestle a few into the bean bag chairs.  Stack a few warm colored blankets on your bed in the wintertime for a cozy look. Try hanging colored lights (like Christmas tree lights or Chinese lanterns) around a window, your bed or a bookcase. This can add a fun dimension to your room. Fold blankets and place them into a basket for a neat way to store and display them. If you have a nice piece of furniture, such as a bookshelf or desk, move them around into the more visible areas of your room. Clean up and organize your desk or bookcase so that it looks its very best. This will give your room a much more mature vibe. Make sure to declutter the dresser and bookshelf and only display your nicest items on it to make it seem more grown up. While it usually depends on the size of your room, your bed is probably the current focal point. The traditional place for a bed is on the wall opposite the door, so this would be the most mature looking choice. If you have a nice bed frame and headboard but your bed can't be seen from the door, move it so that it becomes the focal point.  If you aren't sure, go with the arrangement that makes your room look the least cluttered. Open spaces are streamlined and more adult-looking than a cramped room. If at all possible, don’t put your headboard against the same wall as your bedroom door, since this can have a disorienting effect on anyone who enters.
A: Move or revamp the less mature furniture. Create texture and layers. Make a nice desk or bookcase the focal point of the room. Reposition your bed.

Article: Turn the reel crank clockwise (away from you) until the lure is hanging about 1 foot (0.30 m) from the end of the rod. This will put the line in the right position for a good, strong cast. If you have a sinker or bobber attached to the line, make sure it’s 12–15 inches (30–38 cm) from the end of the rod rather than your bait. Otherwise, your line will be too short, which will cause your cast to lose momentum. The handles of most spincasting rods have a recessed seat with a trigger-like projection on the underside. Wrap your index finger around this projection to ensure that your grip is secure.  You have the option to hold the rod in either your right or left hand. Most fishermen prefer to cast spincasting gear with their dominant hand. If you want to cast and reel with the same hand, you’ll need to change hands after your cast. Move the thumb of your casting hand up until the pad rests over the button. Then, push down on the button firmly. Depressing the reel button disengages the spooled line, which will allow it to go flying when you start the casting motion. The line may drop when you press the button, but it shouldn’t travel far. If it drops more than 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm), it means you may not have held the button firmly enough. Reel it in and try again. Let the movement come from your elbow rather than your shoulder—that way, you’ll get a better snap when you complete your cast. Once the hand of your casting arm is in position in front of your face, the rod itself should either be vertical or point behind you just slightly.  Be sure to keep the handle of the rod above waist level at all times. Avoid raising your arm too high. Doing so could cause you to accidentally hook a nearby object or some part of your clothing. It can also put unnecessary strain on your shoulder joint, which will catch up to you quickly after a long day out on the water. In one fluid motion, reverse the direction of your casting hand, holding the handle of the rod a full arm’s length in front of your face. Bring the tip of the rod to a stop at roughly a 30-degree angle, or what’s commonly known as the “10 o’clock” position. The key to a good cast is to make your movements as smooth and effortless as possible. Jerking or being overly forceful with the rod will only throw off your accuracy and cause you to lose distance. As you do, the momentum of the rod will propel your bait or lure forward toward your target area. The line will then continue to unspool rapidly until you press the reel button again or the bait or lure hits the water.  If your bait or lure simply plops into the water in front of you, you probably released the button too late. If it flies upward in a loose arc, you may have let go too soon.  It may be a little tricky at first to properly time your cast with your release. Don’t worry—you'll start getting the hang of it after a few attempts. Pressing the button a second time will slow the flight of your bait, causing it to drift down nice and easy where you want it to land. From there, it will just be a matter of patience as you kick back and wait for the tell-tale tug of a bite!  Alternatively, you can re-engage the line locking mechanism by turning the reel crack clockwise until you feel a click.  At this point, you can transfer the rod to your opposite hand if you feel more comfortable reeling with your dominant hand.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Reel in the line so your lure is 12–15 inches (30–38 cm) from the rod tip. Grip the handle of the rod with your thumb just below the reel button. Press and hold the button on the back of the reel. Raise your casting arm until your hand is in front of your face. Sweep the rod forward quickly. Release the reel button as the rod comes to eye level. Press the reel button again when your bait or lure reaches your target.

Q: You’ll need to shut off the power and gas to stay safe before opening up the body of your dryer. If your dryer is gas-powered, turn the gas valve on the dryer line to the “off” position or turn off the valve supplying gas to your whole house. Then unscrew the flex hose to disconnect the dryer from the gas line and use a gas line cap to seal the line. Refer to the manual that came with your electric or gas dryer if you’re not sure where to locate the power cord or gas line. Insert a screwdriver into the gaps close to the where the catches are (usually at the top corners of the panel). You may need to slide the screwdriver to the left or right and wiggle it around until the catches release.  Refer to your dryer’s manual to see exactly where the catches are and if there are any additional instructions about how to remove the panel. If your dryer doesn’t have a removable panel underneath where you load clothes, you may need to slide it away from the wall and remove the back panel. Sometimes lint can drop into the body of the dryer, coming in contact with the heating element and causing the lint to heat up (hence the burning smell). Use a vacuum attachment to clean out all the lint. Reattach the bottom and top panels, sliding and pushing them into the correct position until you hear the catchers click into place. Then replace the screws on the lint trap opening before plugging in the dryer. Run it for about 1 or 2 minutes and if you still notice the burning smell, stop it immediately and unplug it again. If the smell persists, you may need to clean the hose duct or call a professional.
A:
Unplug the power cord and disconnect the gas, if applicable. Use a screwdriver to wedge open and remove the bottom panel. Use a vacuum’s hose attachment to suck out any lint buildup. Reattach both panels, replace the lint screen, and test the dryer.