Article: Rooting compound, also referred to as rooting hormones, is comprised of synthetic auxins that encourage embryonic root development. Most compounds also include small amounts of fungicide to help prevent disease while the cutting is rooting. The compound is available in a powdered form at most garden centers. Shake a small amount (about 2 to 3 tablespoons or 30 to 45 ml) of rotting compound onto a paper plate. Dip the lower part of the stem into the compound and then lightly shake off the excess. Apply root compound conservatively; too high of levels may inhibit growth development as the plant matures. Cuttings can be rooted in any container with drainage holes. You can root the cuttings in individual pots, or in a flat that contains several 2- or 3-inch (5- or 7.6-cm) cells. The rooting medium should provide a mix of moisture and air so that the cutting is supported, but root growth is not restricted. The most popular rooting medium is a mix of garden soil, peat moss, perlite, turface, vermiculite, and hardwood or pine bark. Commercial blends are available at most garden centers. Fill the container about three-quarters full of rooting medium. Place the container in a pan of water and let it sit until the top of the rooting medium appears moist. Then allow the container to drain for 10 minutes. Poke a hole in the rooting medium a little larger than the stem using a pencil or straw. The pre-formed holes allow the rooting compound to stay on the cutting, rather than being brushed off onto the top of the soil. Then insert, or "stick" the cuttings into the rooting medium. The lower parts should be firmly supported by the rooting medium, and should not be touching the bottom of the container. If you are planting different kinds of herbs, label each pot or flat with the name of the herb and the planting date.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Apply rooting compound. Select rooting containers. Prepare the rooting medium. Prepare the container. Stick the cuttings. Label the pots and/or flats.

One of the main signs is a “neck,” or section of stem exposed beneath the lower leaves. Repot the violet as soon as possible to avoid long-term damage. If the exposed stem part is shorter than 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm), you do not have to cut the stem to repot the plant. Also check the soil. If it is soggy even though the pot drains properly or the plant’s roots haven’t formed into a ball, your violet needs to be repotted in a pot the next size down. Use a pair of gardening scissors to prune the violet. Take off all flowers and flower buds, since they divert nutrients your plant needs to survive repotting. Also snip off any dead, dried, or discolored leaves you find. Cut as close to the stem as possible. Go back over the stem, dragging the blade from top to bottom. Smooth it out by scraping off any brown spots you notice. Be gentle and use a minimal amount of pressure. You don’t want to cut into the stem. Get a good potting soil or mix your own using components from a gardening center. Pack soil into the pot until it is about 1 in (2.5 cm) below the pot’s rim. Poke a small hole in the center of the soil with your finger. You can mix your own soil using components. Try mixing potting soil, vermiculite, and perlite in equal parts. Protect your violet by removing an elongated neck. Cut the stem horizontally with a sharp knife or shears. Make the cut at soil level, which should be about 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) below the lower leaves. Check the exposed stem for signs of rot. If it appears brown on the inside, continue trimming the stem until all the rot is removed. Center the stem in the pot and place it in the soil. About 2 in (5.1 cm) of stem needs to be covered by dirt, so deepen the hole as needed. The leaves should be right above the pot’s rim. Pack the soil around it to hold the violet in place. If the neck is short, you don’t need to cut the stem. Instead, widen the hole in the pot and plant the roots in it like you normally would. Add small amounts of lukewarm water until the soil feels a little moist. Avoid letting it get soggy. Water should not run out the pot’s bottom. Although this part sounds strange, you need a zippered plastic bag like the kind you can get at a grocery store. It has to be large enough to contain the plant and the pot. Seal the bag to provide the kind of humid environment African violets thrive in. If you can’t get a zippered plastic bag large enough, use a grocery bag or something similar. Seal the bag with a wire tie. Choose a room with a steady temperature and a lot of sunlight. The ideal room stays between 75 °F (24 °C) and 80 °F (27 °C). Set your violet in a safe, bright spot away from direct sunlight. After about 3 days, check on the plant again. The soil may still be moist and you won’t need to do anything. If it is dry, add enough water to lightly dampen the soil again. Seal the bag once you are finished. Open the bag and test the violet by lightly tugging on the stem. If it feels stuck in place, the new roots have begun growing. Leave the bag open for a few days before taking the violet out. Go back to your normal water and fertilization routine to grow a healthy, long-lasting violet.
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Check the violet for an exposed stem or brown spots. Cut off damaged leaves and flowers. Scrape off the exposed stem with a dull knife. Fill the new pot with enough soil to bury the roots. Cut off the exposed stem if it is more than 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) long. Plant the violet’s stem in a hole in the soil. Water the soil to moisten it. Cover the plant with a plastic bag. Move the violet to a bright area out of direct sunlight. Water the plant again every few days. Take the plant out of the bag after a month.