If you've just bought a Bonsai from the store and it came in an unappealing plastic container or you've been growing your own Bonsai tree and finally want to put it in the perfect pot, you'll need to prepare it before transplanting it. First, ensure the tree has been pruned to the shape you desire. If you'd like the tree to grow a certain way after you re-pot it, wrap a sturdy wire around the tree or branch to gently direct its growth. You want your tree in tip-top shape before you transplant it to a new pot, which can be taxing for the plant.  Know that trees with seasonal life cycles (for instance, many deciduous trees) are best transplanted in the spring. Rising temperatures in the spring cause many plants to enter a state of increased growth, which means they'll recover from pruning and root trimming faster. You may want to reduce watering before re-potting. Dry, loose soil can be much easier to work with than damp soil. Carefully remove the plant from its current pot, making sure not to break or tear its main stem. You may want to use a potting shovel to help pry the plant out. Most of the roots will be cut before the plant is re-potted into the Bonsai pot. However, to have a clear view of the roots, it's usually necessary to brush away any of the dirt stuck to them. Clean the roots, brushing away any clumps of dirt obscuring your vision. Root rakes, chopsticks, tweezers, and similar tools are helpful for this process. The roots don't have to be spotless - just clean enough that you're able to see what you're doing while you prune them. If their growth is not adequately controlled, bonsai trees can easily outgrow their containers. To ensure your bonsai tree remains manageable and tidy, prune its roots when you pot it. Cut any large, thick roots and any upward-facing roots, leaving a network of long, slender roots that will sit near the surface of the soil. Water is absorbed from the root tips, so, in a small container, many thin root strands are generally better than a single large, deep one. Before placing the tree in the pot, ensure it has a base of fresh, new soil to sit on that gives it the desired height. At the bottom of your empty pot, add a layer of coarse-grain soil as a base. Then, add a finer, looser growing medium or soil above this. Use a soil or medium that drains well - regular garden soil can hold too much water and may drown the roots. Leave a small amount of space at the top of your pot so that you can cover your tree's roots. If your plant comes with a recommended soil texture, it will do best in that kind of soil. Position the tree in your new pot in the desired orientation. Finish adding your fine, well-draining soil or growing medium to the pot, making sure to cover the tree's root system. If desired, you may add a final layer of moss or gravel. In addition to being aesthetically pleasing, this can help hold the tree in place.  If your tree isn't staying upright in your new pot, run a heavy gauge wire from the bottom of the pot through the drainage holes on the bottom of the pot. Tie the wire around the root system in order to hold the plant in place. You may want to install mesh screens over the pot's drainage holes to prevent soil erosion, which occurs when water carries soil out of the pot via the drainage holes. Your new tree has just undergone a radical, somewhat traumatic process. For 2-3 weeks after re-potting your tree, leave it in a semi-shaded area, protected from the wind or harsh, direct sunlight. Water the plant, but don't use fertilizer until the roots have re-established themselves. By giving your tree a "breather" after re-potting, you allow it to adapt to its new home, and, in time, thrive.  As noted above, deciduous trees with yearly life cycles experience a period of intensified growth in the spring. Because of this, it's best to re-pot deciduous trees in the spring after their winter dormancy has ended. If your deciduous tree is an indoor plant, after allowing it to take root following a re-potting, you may want to move it outside where the rising temperature and increased sunlight can trigger its natural "growth spurt." When your bonsai tree is established, you may want to experiment with adding other small plants to its pot. If carefully arranged and maintained (like your tree), these additions can allow you to craft a perfectly pleasing tableau. Try using plants that are native to the same area as your bonsai tree so that one water and light regimen will support all the plants in the pot equally well.
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One-sentence summary -- Prepare the tree. Remove the tree and clean the roots. Prune the roots. Prepare the pot. Pot the tree. Care for your new bonsai tree.


Check the manual to find out where your intakes are located and whether they have built-in attachments for a garden hose. If not, you’ll need a set of motor muffs. Most manufacturers’ recommendations for flushing or running a motor out of water are similar. However, you should still check the specific procedure for your model. With the engine lowered into the vertical position (not tilted in the tow position), locate the water intakes on the sides of the lower unit. Screw the hose nozzle into one of the intakes. Your manual will most likely recommend covering the other intake with heavy tape. If you need motor muffs, you can purchase a set for under $10 (USD) at a marina, sporting goods store, or online. They look like earmuffs connected by a long, V-shaped rod. Many boat owners like to splash the insides of the muffs with water before attaching them to the motor. A better seal can help prevent the muffs from sliding off while the engine’s running. Slide the muffs onto the motor’s lower unit so they’re aligned over the water intakes. Be sure to position the muffs so the connecting rod is located in front of the motor on the opposite side of the propeller. While you should keep the engine in neutral while running it out of water, you still need to be careful around the propeller. Injury or damage will result if the engine accidentally slips into gear and the connecting rod is on the propeller side of the motor. One of the muffs has a nozzle, and the other is solid. Find the one with the nozzle, then screw your garden hose into it. Double check that the connection is tight and that the muffs fit snugly over the motor’s water intakes.
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One-sentence summary --
Read your manual before starting the motor out of water. Screw the hose directly into the motor if it has a built-in attachment. Purchase motor muffs at a boating store or online. Wet the muffs to get a better seal. Clamp the muffs to the motor and stay clear of the propeller. Screw the garden hose onto the muffs.