Q: Ski width measurements are usually given as a series of three numbers in millimeters, such as "130/100/125." The second number is the most important: the waist or "underfoot" width, directly under your feet. (If your ski has four or more measurements, the smallest one is the waist width.) Personal preference is a major factor, but here's a rough guide:  60–70mm: minimum waist width, used only on ice and groomed hard-pack 70–95mm: "carvers" or "all-mountain" skis, easy to turn and versatile 95–110mm: "big mountain" and "powder" skis, more stable on soft snow; a good option for any off-piste skier 110mm+: used only on powder; the wider the waist, the more you'll float and the worse your edge hold. These are less important than the waist width. Use them as a final tiebreaker when choosing sizes. Here's how the measurements work:  The first measurement listed is the tip or "shovel" width. A tip about 120mm wide and up works best on soft snow. More narrow tips are best for hard snow and sharper turns, but are falling out of favor among amateur skiers. The last measurement is the tail width. Most beginner and intermediate skiers don't need to worry about this one. During fast, tight turns, a wider tail will reduce skidding and speed loss. Each pair of skis should specify a turn radius in meters, describing the natural arc the ski comfortably turns along. Generally, skis with a turning radius in the low to mid-teens will be easier to control on tight turns. A turning radius in the high teens or low twenties adds stability during fast descents, but you'll sacrifice some agility while turning. This is also called the "sidecut radius." The sidecut is the inward arc along the side of your ski, The sidecut radius is the radius of the circle that would be formed by continuing this curve. Lay the ski flat on the ground, unweighted. If the center is raised off the floor in a dome shape, the ski has a "camber" profile. If the center is flat, with the ends curving upward, the ski is a "rocker" or "reverse camber" design. Here are the most common variations on this basic idea:   Full camber: the contact points with the ground are as close to the tip and tail as possible, and the center is raised. These models are more difficult to turn, so beginners should try something else. However, the springy effect from pushing the center down to the snow gives excellent speed for racing and park skiing, and the even pressure along the ski provides great edge hold.  Full rocker: an upward curve with the center flat on the floor, as though the ski were already weighted. This design helps lift you on top of soft snow, makes turning easier, and keeps wider ski designs more stable. Because you'll have a smaller effective edge, consider increasing the length by 5–15cm to make up the difference, especially if you ski at high speeds.   Rocker/camber/rocker: the central camber with raised tip and tail. This is a versatile, forgiving option. Consider it if you'll only have one pair of skis.  Rocker/camber: a cambered ski with a raised tip, but a contact point near the tail. Mostly used on big mountain skis, these give you power without sinking in deep snow. The asymmetric design makes ski switching difficult. Most women's models have an "L" after the name, making them easy to find. However, these are not necessarily the best option for all women. Some models may adapt for women's different balance of weight and lower center of gravity. Other manufacturers follow outdated ideas of what women's skis are, simply making them shorter and lighter weight for less intense skiing. Women may want to try quality women's skis, but don't rule out unisex or "men's" skis. On any skis, women should consider moving the bindings forward compared to men's skis, to compensate for the different distribution of weight.
A: Check waist width. Examine tip and tail widths. Find the ski's turn radius. Examine camber and rocker designs. Try men's and women's skis.

Article: You will need two pieces: both pieces should  be 6-inches by 3-feet. Alternatively, you can purchase one piece of cloth. This type of ninja mask is less realistic but much simpler to make. Simply lay the piece of cloth on a flat surface and cut an oval out of where you would like your eyes to be. Once cut, place the cloth against your face so that your eyes and upper nose are the only parts of your face showing, and tie the ends of the cloth behind your head. Hold both ends of the piece and place it on your mouth before drawing both ends to the back of your head (as if you were putting a bandana on). Cris-cross them and then wrap them along the back of your head and around your neck (make sure this is not too tight!). Tie the two ends into a knot at the back of your head. Holding both ends, wrap the ends under your chin, and then pull the ends back towards the back of your head. Tie them at the back of your head.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Cut your cloth or have a fabric store employee cut it for you. Wrap the first piece (Piece A) around your mouth and lower half of your nose. Take piece B and place it on top of your head.

Q: A good chair will be adjustable, allowing you to set the height to a comfortable level.  It will also have a mesh back, which keeps your back cool and comfortable in hot weather.  Finally, the chair should support your lower back.  If the chair does not adequately support your lower back, you can place a small pillow at the small of your back to increase support. Make sure your chair fits you.  Try out a floor model before buying. Your arms, remember, should form an angle between 90 and 120 degrees, and your forearm should be approximately level with the ground.  Your desk should also have a rounded (rather than a flat) front edge.  The rounded edge will minimize pressure on your wrist and hand. If your keyboard and mouse are far away from you, you’ll have to lean across the desk to access them, disrupting your proper posture.  Use a keyboard tray if you have limited desk space, or if your chair or desk prevent you from placing your keyboard at a comfortable height.  A good keyboard will be inclined away from you slightly, with the top row of keys at a slightly lower elevation than the space bar and bottom-most row of keys.  Keyboards that do not meet these design specifications might inspire you to lean back in your seat or lower the elevation of your chair to reduce pressure on your wrist.  Buy a mouse pad and keyboard with a wrist rest to help you reduce pressure on your wrist and hand. Adjust the sensitivity of your mouse so that you don’t need to move it excessively when working at your computer. If the screen is too dark, you might end up leaning forward to better see it.  Use the monitor’s brightness controls to adjust the brightness to a comfortable level.  Position your monitor in such a way that your line of sight is two or three inches above the top of the monitor when your eyes are facing straight ahead.  Place the monitor an arm’s length from your face.
A:
Get a comfortable chair. Have a desk that is the proper height. Keep your keyboard and mouse close to the edge of your desk. Ensure your monitor has a bright, visible screen.