Summarize the following:
Put down your first sheet of plywood at the corner of one end of the roof. Make sure it’s lying horizontally across the exposed rafters, and that the edges are flush with the edges of the end rafters. Drive a nail into each corner of the plywood to hold it in place temporarily.  Most constructions experts recommend using 7⁄16 in (1.1 cm) oriented strand board (OSB) for small-scale roofing projects.  Plywood sheathing will provide structural support for your new roof, as well as give you a flat, stable surface to attach your other roofing materials too. to fill in any gaps in the sheathing. Plywood is sold in large sheets, which means that you’ll most likely need to use multiple sheets and cut them to fit. Try to cover the remaining space using as few pieces as possible, starting from the lower portion of the roof.  It’s important to cut your plywood so that the end of each section covers half the width of the rafter it’s resting on. That way, the neighboring section will fit in easily beside it, and you’ll have a nice solid surface to nail into.  Make all your cuts with your plywood oriented the same way to ensure that the strand grain is running in a single direction. A consistent grain pattern will increase the strength of your roof sheathing. Drive nails every 6 inches (15 cm) through the face of the plywood and down into the rafter below. Work your way up the length of each rafter from the bottom edge. When you’re done, look for any loose sections of plywood that may require additional nails.  For the sake of caution, do your fastening from your ladder, reaching as far as you can safely with your hammer or roofing nailer. The combined strength of the OSB and supporting rafters will be capable of withstanding weights of up to several hundred pounds. Once you have the sheathing in place, your final task will be to mount fascia boards to cover the exposed ends of your rafters. Cut your 2 in (5.1 cm) x 4 in (10 cm) or 2 in (5.1 cm) x 6 in (15 cm) to match the length of the shed. Fasten the fascia boards by nailing them to the end face of every other rafter using 8D finishing nails.  You’ll need to put up 2 fascia boards for gable, gambrel, skillion, and saltbox and other slanted roof styles—1 for each sloped edge. For flat roofs, it will look best to install a fascia board on every side. When cutting your fascia boards, be sure to use the same size lumber as you did for your rafters to guarantee an exact fit.

summary: Cover your rafter trusses with plywood sheathing. Measure and cut additional plywood Fasten your plywood sheathing to the rafters using 8D finishing nails. Cut fascia boards to finish the edges of your roof.


Summarize the following:
Get some nail polish remover, a cotton ball, and aluminum foil. If you don’t have aluminum foil, a rubber band or hair elastic will do the trick just as nicely. What you really want is something that will hold the cotton ball in place against your fingernail. Let the polish sit for at least 5 minutes so that the remover can slowly loosen the glitter’s grip on your nail. This will help you to remove the polish later more effortlessly. If you’re in a rush, sit in the sunlight while you let your nails soak. The heat will slightly speed up the process, allowing you to remove the foil and cotton balls in 3-5 minutes.

summary: Gather your supplies. Let the polish remover soak into the glitter.


Summarize the following:
Lift the door by the doorknob. If you can move it upward, then the hinges are likely loose. Use a screwdriver to tighten the screws holding the hinges in place.  Some drafts are caused by the door shifting due to loose hinges. Because of this, before you seal the edges of your door, take a few minutes to tighten all of the hardware. If the hinge screws spin but won't tighten, it means that the wood in the hole is stripped out. You will need to replace the screws with wider or longer screws so that they can dig into wood that is not damaged. You may also need to fill the holes with wood plugs and re-drive the new screws into those plugs if there is a lot of wood damage. If your door had weather stripping previously installed, it might be damaged or deformed. Check it by running your hand around the perimeter of the door while the door is closed. Feel for air coming in between the door and the frame. Mark the areas where you feel air coming in with a light pencil mark or a piece of painter’s tape. If you can feel a draft while checking areas that already have weather stripping, you will need to remove the old weather stripping and replace it with a new seal. Remove old weather stripping that is broken or ineffective by peeling or sliding it away. Then use a damp rag to wipe away any visible dirt and debris from the door frame and the edges of the door itself. This will help you attach your new weather stripping securely.  Drag the edge of a paint scraper along the top, bottom, and sides of the door and door frame to remove any stuck-on debris from these surfaces. Also clean the threshold, which is the bottom of the door frame. If there are grooves along the threshold, run a nail through the grooves to scrape away any gunk that has gotten lodged in there. Then run a lightly damp rag along the threshold and door frame to ensure that the surfaces are clean. There are several different types of weather stripping available, so you'll need to decide which one you wish to use. For the top and sides of your door, wrapped foam weather stripping is durable and works well with gaps of various sizes. Weather stripping with a wooden shell is durable yet easier to work with than metal weather stripping, so it makes a good choice for someone who has no prior experience sealing doors. For the door sweep, consider using a metal door sweep with a flexible vinyl flap for greater durability.  A metal door sweep with a flexible vinyl flap is also fairly easy to install, as the metal piece is screwed down and then the vinyl is inserted into it. More advanced options include storm-proof seals and roller door seals, such as brush or auto-lift vinyl seals that attach to the bottom of roller doors.  If purchasing a weather stripping kit, note that most kits only contain weatherstripping for the top and sides of your door. You will need to purchase a separate door sweep. Rigid door sweeps will not work if the carpet is higher or even with the threshold. When rigid door sweeps won't work, use flexible bulb weather stripping made of vinyl. This attaches to the threshold right under the door.
summary: Tighten the hinges on your door. Check the state of the old weather stripping. Clean the areas that need to be sealed. Buy new weather stripping at a home improvement or hardware store.