Write an article based on this "Start at the top of the staircase. Place runner between layout pencil marks. Press your carpet into the outline of the steps with a carpet knee-kicker. Verify the kicking is complete once you're done. Verify your work is correct. Carefully cut any excess carpet at the bottom of the steps. Staple each step through to the wood."
article: When it finally comes time to lay your carpet runner, it's best to start at the very top and work your way down. That way, you'll have gravity on your side, and it'll be much easier to cut any runoff carpet at the end. If you traced the carpet outline at the beginning of the project, it should be an easy matter of getting the carpet situation between the two as close as you can. Take care to press the carpet under the nose and tug the rest out to make sure you're getting just as much carpet as you need. Work down to the last step; when you're done, the carpet should be covering the expected ground, but the outline of the steps may not be fully visible. Make sure each step is as good as it can get before you move down to the next-- any mistake will cause a load of undue strain later on once the project is supposedly complete. A carpet knee-kicker will get the carpet planted firmly in areas that may be otherwise difficult to reach.  Place the front edge of your carpet knee-kicker on center of the runner about two inches from the riser and apply pressure until the carpet is locked in. They can be remarkably satisfying to use, and will give your stairs a much tighter look than if done without.   Lean on the front knob of the kicker with one hand, and use the other hand to keep the kicker's shaft level.  You can also use a carpet chisel. The dull edge helps tighten up corners and is easier to use on stairs or in tight quarters. As with previous steps, the last part of using the knee-kicker should be making sure you got the job done to your satisfaction. Without kicking in properly, you may have too much carpet or too little, and it'll require uprooting or even destroying the progress you've made. Before you move on, you should ensure that the carpet is being snagged by the tackless strip at the far end of the tread. If the tackless strips aren't properly clinging to the carpet, it could result in the carpet getting bumpy a few years down the road. Using a chisel or other thin tool, press the angle between the step's height and tread to make sure it's getting hooked in. At the bottom, there should be a little bit of runoff. From here, it's just a simple matter of cutting the excess carpet away with a carpet knife. Feel free to do what you will with the remainder of the carpet. Some people are quick to throw them out, while others like to find practical uses for them. Having a powerful stapler designed for home improvement is necessary to finish things off and get your carpet snug and perfect. When stapling, push stapler through the carpet pile and against the backing before pulling the trigger.  Staple on the underside of the step noses, and nearest the angle between the tread and height. Staple at three inch intervals for optimal stability. Alternatively, you can use carpet glue instead of staples. Make absolutely certain that the carpet is exactly where you want it to be before you staple. After you staple, it will be next to impossible to correct any mistakes.

Write an article based on this "Recite your speech to yourself. Keep the speech brief. Speak with confidence."
article: Writing a speech is only one aspect of the entire presentation. You also need to practice the speech out loud. That’s because often, the way that you write things might not actually roll off the tongue easily.  Go over any parts that seem confusing or that don’t flow easily. Make any notes or changes that will be helpful when delivering the speech. Time the speech when you recite it. Give the speech to a mirror so that you can see how often you’re able to look up from your paper without stumbling. You can also practice the speech in front of a close friend and ask for feedback. You might have a lot to say, depending on your tenure at this place and how much it has meant to you. However, this speech is not the time to go into minute detail about it. Remember that people likely need to get back to work, or have other things they’d like to be doing with their time. If you do it right, you can make a powerful speech in a short period of time. A farewell speech should usually be about five minutes long. Ten minutes is acceptable in certain circumstances. More than that should be reserved for extremely special circumstances, such as when a head of state resigns. Many people get nervous when speaking in front of a crowd. There are plenty of tricks to help yourself battle nerves if you need to. Make sure to practice your speech many times; then, prepare yourself for standing in front of a group.  Know that you may make a mistake. Be prepared for this. Don't beat yourself up if it happens. Acknowledge it and move on. You can even laugh at yourself to help put the audience at ease. Focus on people who seem to connect to your speech. If they're nodding, smiling, or have their eyes glued to you, focus on them. Their energy will help give you confidence.

Write an article based on this "Trim your horse's hooves to relieve pressure on the lamina. Remove the horse's shoes to reduce inflammation. Use orthopedic horse shoes to protect the hoof. Attach pads to support and cushion the sole. Allow your horse to exercise to promote blood circulation. Relieve abscesses to promote healing and reduce pain. Feed your horse a diet low in simple sugars to reduce inflammation."
article:
Founder is a complex condition and weakens the support for the bones inside the hoof, so making sure the hoof strikes evenly is essential to prevent further damage.  Much like a broken fingernail, full repair does not happen until the damaged part of the hoof has fully grown out which takes 6-12 months. During this time, the angles of force on the hoof changes (because of the lack of support from the laminae) and the hoof grows unevenly. Therefore, trimming the hoof to maintain a good upright posture is critical both in the short term (to relieve pressure) and long term (for a smooth gait). Left untrimmed, the eventual result is an Aladdin's slipper type hoof with a long slopping toe and short heels, which will predispose your horse to lameness. You must ensure careful trimming and shortening of the toe every 2-4 weeks. Ask your farrier to give your horse corrective hoof trimming and realignment trimming. Corrective hoof trimming will restore proper hoof form and function. Corrective trimming will allow the hooves to be healthy again. Realignment trimming trims back the toe so that it is in line with the coffin bone. Realigning trimming pushes the coffin bone back into the correct position. The process of a new hoof capsule totally growing out to replace the old one takes up to a year. You must leave your horse on laminitis trimmings long term. This will prevent the laminitis from coming back. The trimmings will reverse laminitis. Ideally, a horse with founder has his shoes removed.  This spares the horse the weight and concussion of its shoes hitting the ground with each step. Removal also allows the hoof wall to expand with the inflammation, rather than being constricted. However, it is important to make sure that the sole is concave in relation to the ground, so that the sole stays raised above the ground. If the sole has dropped, then shoes (or pads) are necessary to prevent the horse wearing through the sole and exposing its foot bone. If the horn of the hoof wall is brittle and crumbly, then it is likely to chip away and cause more pain.  In addition, a poor quality hoof wall is more frequently associated with a dropped sole (the sole loses its concave arch and sits in contact with the ground). In these circumstances, orthopedic horse shoes may be necessary to keep the hoof wall intact, lift the sole, and keep the angle of the toe bones as close to their normal anatomical position as possible. Some common types of shoes are:  Reversed shoes. The feet are trimmed to reduce the length of the toe (to prevent the hoof being tipped backwards) and a regular shoe is put on back-to-front. The aim is to raise the heel and drop the toe to help realign the toe bones with the hoof wall. Egg bar shoes. Instead of having an open back like a traditional horseshoe, egg bar shoes form a complete oval. Again, the idea is to provide support to the heel by raising it slightly and taking pressure off the back of the foot. Heart bar shoes. These are a complete shoe, lacking the traditional gap, but have a "V" shaped metal insert (hence the "heart") that covers the frog. This helps to protect the painful part of the foot from contact with the ground and raises the heel to help restore the correct alignment of the pedal bone with the floor. Helping the horse feel comfortable enough to move around will aid his recovery. One way to do this is to attach pads to the bottom of his hooves to provide cushioning for the painful sole.  There are many different commercial varieties of pads available, of which Styrofoam pads are one example that can adapt to the shape of the individual hoof. These are 2-inch deep pads of special foam. They come in three hoof sizes, small, medium, and large. They are attached to the bottom of clean hooves and kept in place with gaffer tape and bandages. The horse's weight crushes and molds the pads, providing cushioning where it is most needed. After two days, the pads will have compressed to a half-inch of thickness, at which point a new layer should be added for extra comfort. This is often enough to enable the horse to walk at a slow pace, which increases the blood flow to the hoof and aids recovery. Pads should be changed when they become totally compressed and may be needed every 2 weeks, depending on the severity of the disease. Once the initial pain has subsided, the pads can be removed and the hoof trimmed as discussed below. Wild horses recover by keeping moving with the herd, which promotes blood circulation in the hoof and helps remove toxins.  You can turn horses with mild laminitis out onto soft pasture with other animals to encourage them to keep moving. The pasture must not contain lush rich grass as this can further inflame laminitis, so if suitable land is not available the horse should be stabled on soft bedding and taken for short walks every 3- 4 hours. When walking a horse with laminitis, take it at a gentle pace and walk in straight lines, avoiding lunging or tight corners. This is because the support for the bone inside the hoof is weak and any undue force could sheer the tendon completely. The best surface to walk on is firm ground with a slight give, such as packed dirt. Avoid surfaces such as sand, that shift and press into the sole. If suitable ground is not available, you can bring your horse out on pavement with the horse wearing pads. Sterile abscesses can develop inside the hoof as a result of white blood cells brought in to reduce inflammation.  However, the resulting pressure build up needs to be relieved. You can use poultices with Animalintex, or soak the hoof in a bucket of warm water with a cup of cider vinegar to help soften the horn and allow the discharge to find a route out, thus relieving the pressure. For some animals there is a link between diet and episodes of laminitis.  During recovery, keep a close eye on your horse's diet. Simple sugars increase the level of insulin, which in some horses triggers laminitis. It helps to maintain a diet low in simple sugars. Foods that fit this description are mature grasses and hay made from mature flowering grasses. If you are feeding your horse hay, soaking it for a couple of hours before feeding can leech out some sugars and make it moist so there is less risk of impaction colic. Avoid feeding your horse grains and lush grass. If it ever gets to a point where your horse can't stand up, or if the coffin bone drops through the sole of the hoof, you may need to put your horse down.