Problem: Article: Hens will be more likely to use the boxes if they contain some nest-like material. Straw and dried grass can make good bedding, as long as you’re sure they didn’t come into contact with pesticides or chemicals. Shredded paper can also be an affordable option, but steer clear of paper with colored inks, glossy paper, and receipt paper, as these can all be toxic to your hens. Wood shavings are ideal, as they are easy to clean and usually have a pleasant smell.  The boxes should have at least 3 inches (7.6 cm) of bedding, and you may need to add more periodically if it becomes flattened or is kicked out of the boxes. If you are using wood shavings, avoid cedar, since it contains aromatic oils that can be harmful to chickens. Pine is best. Hens will be more likely to nest if the boxes feel private and safe. Cut 2 pieces for each box so that a hen can easily enter the box between them, then attach them to the top of each box with thumbtacks, staples or glue.  The curtains should be large enough that they cover the entire opening of the box. If your hens do not seem to be entering the boxes, try pinning or tying the bottoms of the curtains to the side to make the opening between them obvious.  Any kind of fabric will do, but if you want to avoid unsightly unraveling, use stretchier knit fabrics or hem the edges. Hens may be more likely to lay and become broody if they believe there are already eggs in the nest. Fake eggs can be purchased from farm supply companies or even hobby stores. Check them every week or so to make sure the bedding is not damp or stinky, and that the boxes are not full of manure. Straw, dried grass and shredded paper are especially likely to become smelly within a few weeks, and the bedding should be changed out when that happens. Clean nests will help keep your hens safe from disease and infection. When you clean out the bedding, check to see whether the box itself seems to be crusted with dirt or manure. If it is, clean it with some water, a scrub brush, and an unscented, eco-friendly cleaning solution like Dr. Bronner’s. Mixing a few handfuls of dried herbs such as lavender, rosemary and thyme in with your bedding can help deter pests such as mites, while also keeping your boxes smelling fresher. Avoid using fresh herbs in the boxes, as they may decompose too quickly and create bad odors or mold.
Summary: Make bedding material for your boxes. Use fabric scraps or feed sacks to make curtains. Add golf balls or fake eggs to encourage laying. Keep your boxes clean. Avoid pest problems by using herbs.

Problem: Article: Use a hot glue gun so the twine is secure on the bottle. Apply a drop of hot glue to the bottom rim of the bottle (on the side of the bottle) and press the end of the twine into the glue. Let the glue dry for at least 1 minute. Add a drop of hot glue every 2 inches (5.1 cm). Stop wrapping the twine once you get back to where you started. Let the hot glue dry for 1 minute. Don't leave any gaps between the rings of twine as you wrap it around. You shouldn't be able to see the glass wine bottle through the twine. Don't apply any hot glue to the rings of twine going up the base of the bottle. Add hot glue every 2 inches (5.1 cm) like you did to the ring of twine at the bottom rim of the bottle. Stop once you reach the point where you first started wrapping the twine around the neck of the bottle. Wait 1 minute for the hot glue to dry before continuing. Layer the rings right on top of each other so there aren't any gaps, like you did with the twine on the base of the bottle. Stop wrapping when you reach the lip at the top of the neck. Apply a dot of hot glue right below the lip at the top of the bottle. Press the end of the twine into the hot glue. Once the hot glue dries, your bottle is ready to be displayed!
Summary: Glue the end of a roll of coarse twine to the bottom rim of your wine bottle. Wrap the twine around the bottom rim of the bottle. Tightly wrap the twine around and up the bottle until you reach the neck. Wrap the twine around the base of the neck of the bottle and apply hot glue. Tightly wrap the twine around and up the neck of the bottle. Cut the twine from the roll with scissors and glue the end to the bottle.

Problem: Article: There are a few basic parts of the extension ladder that you should be familiar with before you attempt to use it. Here are the most important:  The safety shoe or foot of the ladder consists of the pads that are designed to be in contact with the ground when the ladder is in use. These typically will swivel or rotate slightly in order to be make better contact with the surface the ladder is on. The fly section is the portion of the extension ladder that will be extended upward. This is the portion that you will climb as you get closer to the top. Additionally, it should be noted that some extension ladders have a two-part fly (and three primary ladder components in total). The base section is the portion of the extension ladder that will remain in place. When you begin to climb the ladder, you will start out on the rungs of this section. The rung lock is attached to the fly and is used to keep the fly in place by fitting over the top of a rung of the base or fly section underneath. It will essentially act as a bracket, and the fly will not be able to slide down after weight if put on it. The rope and pulley are used to extend the largest of extension ladders. Smaller ladders do not have this component, but larger ones are essentially unusable if this is broken. Serious injuries resulting from the use (or misuse) of extension ladders are so common that they have developed a bit of a reputation. Knowing how they earned that reputation--and how those accidents could have been prevented-- can help you stay safe.  Extension ladders typically only have two points of contact with the ground. Some varieties of smaller ladders fold out to create four separate points of contact with the ground. Extension ladders typically have nothing other than the "feet" or "shoes" on the two side rails. Consequently, they can be a bit unstable. Extension ladders are among the tallest available in retail sales outlets. It is not merely that their height makes for longer falls (though that is true as well). Instead, the height only accentuates the preexisting instability issues. Think of the ladder as a lever. When you climb the ladder, the weight is actually moved closer to the end of the lever. People commonly misuse extension ladders. Because of their instability issues, there are certain precautions that must be taken. First, two people must be involved in the use of the ladder. When one person climbs, another must be available to "foot" the ladder (hold it in place). Secondly, the ladder cannot be used a vertical or near-vertical angles. Instead, they must bed tilted or leaned on to another object for support as a person climbs to the top (more on this in a moment). This will minimize the "leverage" issue previously noted.
Summary:
Familiarize yourself with the parts of the extension ladder. Understand why extension ladders are considered dangerous.