Article: Wear safety goggles and gloves at a minimum. Put on an apron to keep wood dust from getting on your clothes. Heavy work boots are also recommended both to keep sawdust from getting in your shoes, as well as to protect your feet in case a cut branch or log falls on them.  Also, obtain and wear heavy-duty earmuffs to protect your ears from the loud sounds of machine-assisted wood cutting. If the log still has any branches attached, you will need to remove them with a hacksaw or pruning saw. Hold the saw blade at a 45° angle, with the teeth touching the branch, then move the saw back and forth while applying downward pressure. Discard each branch you remove until the log has been completely cut. If you’re using a chainsaw, cut the limb on the side of the log opposite where you are standing for extra safety. Place the log into a vise with the cut end facing upward, then hold a drawknife over the open face, with the teeth positioned over where the bark and sapwood meet. Move the drawknife back and forth while pressing downward until a piece of the bark comes loose. Repeat until you have shaved all of the bark from the log.  You can also hand-peel the bark from the log. Make sure you are wearing safety gloves. Grip a piece of loose bark from one end of the open face of the log, then pull it up and off the log. Repeat this process using other loose pieces of bark until it’s all been pulled off. If some of the bark is hard to peel off, slide a knife blade or 5-in-1 painter’s tool between the bark and the sapwood to loosen it. It’s easiest to hand-peel bark from logs that have been dead for a year or 2, since this will give the wood and bark plenty of time to dry out. Sapwood is the outer, lighter-colored wood where water and sap flows, and it is susceptible to fungus. Place the handsaw teeth on the open face of the log where the sapwood meets the inner layer—the heartwood. Saw the sapwood off by moving the saw back and forth and exerting downward pressure on the teeth. Sapwood is also harder to seal than the heartwood, because it has a lot more moisture in it.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Put on personal safety equipment. Cut any limbs or branches off the log. Remove the bark from the log with a drawknife. Eliminate the sapwood with a handsaw.

Problem: Article: Try them on and adjust the straps until it fits. If you can, try them on in the water to make sure there are no leaks. If you have bad eyesight, consider getting a prescription-adjusted mask to help you see underwater without your glasses or using contact lenses. Disposable ones are great for snorkelling in. Make sure the snorkel tube is close to your mouth, but don't put it in yet. Place your face in the water at about a 45 degree angle. Allow your lips to seal around it and hold the snorkel in place. Breathe slowly, deeply and cautiously with your mouth through your snorkel. No need to panic: you can always lift your head above water if you want. Just relax and become aware of your breaths. The sound of your breathing through the snorkel barrel should become quite noticeable. Once you get into a rhythm, relax and enjoy the underwater scenery. This makes floating on the surface of the water with minimal effort much easier. Many commercial snorkeling locations require a colorful life vest to be worn for safety reasons.
Summary: Get a snorkel and mask you feel comfortable with. Put on the mask and tug the straps until it feels comfortably sealed around your eyes and nose. Lay flat in the water on your stomach. Bite gently down on the mouthpiece of the snorkel. Take slow, regular breaths in and out through the tube. Wear a buoyancy vest.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: You definitely want to practice straight jumps first before trying a 360. However, once you get the hang of regular jumps, try adding the rotation. Aim to start your rotation right as you hit the takeoff of the jump, twisting your arms and board around to get your momentum going. Extend your legs at the takeoff to get the "pop" effect. Start with smaller course jumps and work your way up to bigger ones. A grab is where you hold on to the edge of the board while you're in the air. Get on a trampoline with your snowboard on. Gain some air by jumping a few times, then work on bringing your board up for a front grab. Lift the toe edge of the board and grab it with your hand. Release it quickly and land on the bottom of the snowboard.  You can also lean back and grab the heel edge of the board or tip the leading edge of the board up (usually your left side) and grab it with your left hand, which is a nose grab. Try the back end for a tail grab. You can use either end to grab the toe side or heel side of the board, but it will take different movements. Try combining this with the 360 rotation on the trampoline. To start adding a grab on the slopes, work on lifting your knees while you are rotating. Tighten your body up so that you're almost in the fetal position.  This movement brings the board closer to your hands, making it easier to perform a grab. To help make yourself compact, use a lot of force when you pop off the takeoff point of the jump. The hard pop will push your legs up toward your chest. After you get the feel for the movement, try it out while you make a rotation. Try starting with a straightforward jump, then try it with a 180 or a 270 before moving on to the 360. That way, you get a feel for it while lowering your chances of wiping out on the jump.

SUMMARY: Do the move off a jump on the course. Practice grabs on a trampoline with your snowboard. Lift your knees in your frontside rotations to work on adding a grab. Incorporate a grab on the slopes.

You'll need to dig deep enough to reach a stable surface beneath the topsoil, and often deeper to ensure the stones have solid support. Large installation projects may require an excavator, and a square shovel is always useful for creating the vertical walls.  For a driveway or other area with heavy car or machinery traffic, dig 7–9 inches (18–23 centimeters) deep, plus the height of the paving stones you'll be installing. For a walkway with only foot traffic, you only need to dig 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) deep, plus the height of the stones. Use crushed rock or gravel sized at about ¾ of an inch (1.9 cm). This will provide a base for the paving stones, and allow water to drain through. Rent or purchase a plate compactor, and use it to compact the gravel to make a stable, sturdy base. You may need to pour in the gravel in stages, as each compactor has a maximum depth that it can compact at one time.  The final layer should be 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) deep for areas with car or machinery traffic, or up to 12 in. (30 cm) in wet soil. Use a layer 3–4 inches (7.5–10 cm) deep for walkways. Some people install landscape fabric or geotextiles over the gravel at this stage. This helps prevent weed growth, and may help keep the base above it in place. However, other installers prefer to skip this step, as it is not a permanent weed solution and may lead to drainage problems in the long term. Pour in a 1 inch (2.5 cm) layer of sand to keep the paving stones in place. This sand is sold as "bedding sand" or "paver sand." Place a bubble level on top of a flat 2 x 4 or screed board. Scrape it over the surface of the sand, taking care to avoid stepping on the sand layer. The sand should be flat, but along a slight slope, between 1/4" (6mm) per foot (0.3m) and 1/2" (12mm) per foot (0.3 m).
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One-sentence summary --
Excavate the area. Pour in and compact gravel in stages. Add landscape fabric (optional). Add a layer of sand. Screed the sand.