In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Before you begin scrubbing, scraping, and sanding, take a few minutes to make sure your work area is protected. Cut sheet plastic to fit over each opening and secure the edges using painters tape. Not only will this keep the areas you don’t want to paint covered, it will also help protect more delicate fixtures from damage. It may be a good idea to lay some sheeting at the base of the structure as well to catch wood shavings or flecks of paint that come loose during the project. Use a long-handled scrubber brush and a mild detergent to gently scrub away accumulated dirt, grime, mold, and other residue. When you’re satisfied with the wood’s appearance, rinse the exterior from top to bottom with a garden hose. Give the surface a full day to dry before moving on.  Pressure washing may be a more efficient option for renewing larger surfaces. Pressure washers are typically available to rent at hardware stores and home improvement centers.  Avoid using stiff brushes or scrubbers like steel wool. It’s possible for these tools to leave behind permanent scratches in softer woods. Apply the filler material using the tip of a putty knife or hand trowel, then go over it with the flat edge to smooth it. Smaller spots can be treated the same way, or you can purchase an exterior spackling compound, which won’t require any additional mixing. For most basic applications, the wood filler will dry in a few hours.  Two-part resin systems tend to stick to exterior wood better than ordinary fillers. Repairing damaged and uneven areas to ensure that the surface you’re painting is uniform and structurally sound. While you’ve got your wood filler handy, spread a small glob into any recessed nail holes you come across, then carefully blend the material into the surrounding surface. Bringing the holes to level will keep them from being visible under the new paint. If there are any nails sticking out of the exterior, remove them (if they’re not necessary) or drive them 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) into the face of the wood to get them out of the way before filling the holes.
Summary: Mask any doors, windows, or other openings with plastic. Clean the wood surface thoroughly. Patch large holes and gouges with wood filler. Fill visible nail holes.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Lay your post flat on its long side. Use your square to draw a 45° angle from one corner of the post until the line ends at the opposite side edge. The angle, when cut, will form two edges about 7 in (17.8 cm) long and two that are about 4 in (10.2 cm) long. Position your post somewhere it will be safe to cut with a saw. For example, you might clamp the unmarked edge to a workbench or scrap wood so you can cut the marked edge more easily. Cut the post along the marked angle with your circular saw.  Use caution when operating a saw. Improper usage can result in serious injury. Always wear safety glasses and a face mask. Substitute a hand saw for a circular saw. However, cutting with a hand saw will take longer and require more effort. The blade of some saws might not extend all the way through the post. In this situation, turn the post over and mark the same angle on the opposite side. Cut the angle on the opposite side to finish the incomplete cut. Orient the flat bottom of your post, which is opposite the angled top, upwards. Use a tape measure and a pencil to mark the center of the flat bottom of the post. Use a 7/8-inch bit to drill a 4-inch (10.2 cm) deep hole at this center mark.  Drill the hole on a straight up and down angle with respect to the flat bottom of the carpenter bee trap. If you're a poor estimator of distance, measure the length of your drill bit and note the point it is about 4 in (10.2 cm) long. Drill to this point. Each of the four sides will need a hole to make your trap most efficient. Use a tape measure and pencil to mark one hole on each side. Each hole should be 2 in (5 cm) from the bottom edge and ¾ in (1.9 cm) from side edges. Hold your square beside the hole to help you judge the angle. 45° is halfway between horizontal (flat) and vertical (up and down). Position your drill parallel to this angle and drill upward until the hole connects with the hole drilled in the bottom.  Drill holes in this fashion at each of the marked points on the four sides of your post. All holes should connect with the straight hole drilled in the center of the post's flat bottom. The angle for your side entry holes doesn't have to be perfect. For quick, easy, and accurate angled holes, use a pocket jig as a guide. Pocket jigs can be bought at hardware stores.
Summary:
Mark a 45° angle on the 4x4 post. Cut the post along the marked angle. Cut the opposite side of the post to finish incomplete cuts, if necessary. Drill a hole in the flat bottom of the post. Mark entry holes on the four sides of the post. Drill side entry holes upward on a 45° angle.