When it matures, your choko will grow into a heavy mass of vines. Place a strong trellis or other support next to your sprout, and hammer its stakes deep into the ground so it doesn’t topple once the vines become heavy.  You could also choose a planting site next to a sturdy fence to support your vines. Avoid using a metal support, which can get too hot and damage the vines. If you don’t get a lot of rain, keep the soil from drying out and water it regularly. When vines don’t receive enough water, they produce stringy fruit. If you do get lots of rain, add compost every month to maintain an intact top layer. The vines will start to grow wildly, so you’ll need to train them to grab onto the trellis or fence. Wrap loose vines around the support’s bars regularly to keep them from spreading everywhere. After 120 to 150 days, or by the late summer and early autumn, the vines will start to flower and produce fruit. Cut fruit from vines with a knife or pruner before the skin gets too hard. Mature fruit are between 4 and 6 inches (10 and 15 centimeters) in length.  Don’t let fruit sit on the ground, or they’ll start to split and germinate.  You can use chokos in a variety of recipes, including salads, stir fries, and chutneys. In temperate climates, cut back the vines to three or four short shoots after the fruiting season. If you live in a frost-prone climate, cut the vines to just above ground level. Cover the planting site with 10 to 15 inches (25 to 38 centimeters) of mulch or pine straw to protect the roots during the winter. Since it’s a perennial, choko will grow back from its roots in the spring.
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One-sentence summary -- Provide a wooden trellis or fence to support your vines. Keep the soil from drying out completely. Train the vines to grow on the support. Harvest the first crop in autumn. Cut back the vines and add a thick layer of mulch before winter.


Clams are animals, not plants, though they are often marketed as "filters." This is only partially true. Unlike plants, which filter chemicals out of the water and use light to make food, clams are "filter feeders," meaning that they eat small organisms and algae that they pull out of the water. A brand new tank, however, will not have any other life developed, meaning your clams could starve without proper care. Clams like to hide and feel safe, sitting in the bottom of the tank and filtering out all the food waste and leftovers that drift down to the bottom. You want roughly 4 inches (10.2 cm) of sand for them to nest in.  Make sure you rinse your substrate (sand) off before adding it to the tank, especially if you've taken it from a natural environment. You want a nice, fine substrate, something with a grain size between 1 to 3mm. Snails and coldwater fish all create food waste and scrapes that are perfect to feed your clams. With a strong ecosystem around them, most clams will need little other maintenance beyond the occasional checkup, as they eat the leftovers of the other fish. They can also keep your tank clean by filtering our some algae and microorganisms. Freshwater puffers, some catfish species, and loaches will all eat clams if they get hungry enough, so it is best to keep them in separate tanks. Your clams can eat a lot of the food leftover by the rest of the tank, but, especially in newer tanks with fewer organisms, they will need some extra food to truly thrive. This is especially essential if you have a lot of clams, or many larger, adult clams. You can use clam food, found at your local pet store and often sold as "sinking algae wafers," or you can make your own mixture, pureed in a blender and given to your clams individually:  1/3 pound red meat (hamburger, beef liver, beef heart) OR Fish with Roe Beef Blood (drippings from beef package) 1 tsp Cod Liver Oil ¼ tsp Yeast 2-3 tablespoons water from the aquarium the clams live in. A good, healthy clam will spring closed quickly if you touch it or it feels like it is being threatened. This is a naturally clammy defense mechanism. Every 2-3 weeks, pull your clams out and make sure that they close up quickly. Since they bury themselves in the sand, finding dead clams can be tough, but you can make it easier on yourself:  Poke 10-20 holes in a clean, single serving applesauce container. Place 2-3 clams (depending on size) into the container. Cover them in sand so that the tops are still visible at the top. Place the container at the bottom of your tank, removing it with your clams whenever you need to check on them. Dead clams release a large spike of ammonia, which can damage or even kill other animals in the tank. This is why checking your clams regularly is so important. Make sure that they still close up rapidly. If they won't close at all, they've likely died and should be discarded.  Dead clams also have a rank, fishy odor. If you are unsure if a clam is dead, try making a small, separate "maintenance tank." Feed them and provide a nice, sandy bottom and see if they begin to react after 4-5 days. Clams are not water filtration systems, and they will not keep your tank clean and happy all on their own. You still need a water filtration system, plants, and carefully monitored water levels to ensure that your tank is healthy and happy.
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One-sentence summary -- Place clams in well-established tanks for the best results. Provide a sandy bottom for your clams. Add other fish to create a vibrant aquarium system around your clams. Augment your clams natural food with feedings 1-2 a week. Note the speed a clam closes up to measure health. Remove dead clams from your tank quickly. Do not rely on clams to filter your water.


(Hint: This is NOT a good dress for young girls.) If desired, you can make the dress have tank top sleeves.  It's done! The triangle up the thigh and the low V-neck are what add that sexy element Be sure to decorate with any designs you would like.
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One-sentence summary --
Draw a V-Neck that goes down far. You can add a U for an undershirt, but for maximum sexiness, just draw cleavage. Draw a curvy dress figure. Draw the dress covering her feet. Erase the bottom of the triangle. Finished.