INPUT ARTICLE: Article: One of the most common sources of problems when growing peace lilies is an improper watering regimen. Under-watering and over-watering can cause a variety of non-specific symptoms that sometimes overlap with other peace lily ailments. However, since improper watering is also one of the easiest problems to fix, try attempting these remedies first before moving on to a more drastic solution.  Under-watering should be fairly obvious: dry soil accompanied with wilting, yellowing leaves and a drooping stalk is a dead giveaway. Fix this by watering and misting more regularly - at least once a week for each. Note that plants that outgrow their containers will have a difficult time absorbing the water they need from a typical watering session. Over-watering can be slightly harder to diagnose, but is often characterized by brown leaf tips. Note that over-watering can lead to root rot, a separate, much more serious condition. Root rot is serious condition that can affect any potted plant with roots below the surface and can easily kill the plant. Generally, root rot is caused when a plant suffers from over-watering or poor drainage. If the roots are held in contact with standing water for a prolonged period of time, it becomes difficult for them to get the air that they need to function correctly, and as a result they will literally begin to rot. Certain types of microorganisms called water moulds contribute to the spreading rot, the spores of which can spread root rot to another plant if adequate moisture is present. Root rot is often fatal, but, to attempt to remedy it, immediately remove your lily from its pot and cut off any dead, slimy, or otherwise rotten portions of root. Pot the plant in a new pot with dry soil and proper drainage.  Though root rot infects the plant below the surface, it will cause the plant to visibly begin to die above ground. If your lily seems to become increasingly wilted even with proper sun and frequent watering, root rot is likely the culprit. Peace lilies are sometimes susceptible to infection by aphids, mites, or other small arthropods. If you notice your lily's leaves begin to wilt or die, especially if accompanied by visible pests, a sticky, slimy discharge, or the presence of white webbing, it's likely that your plant has a pest infestation. Use a strong stream of water to blast the pests off of the plant, then, to make sure they don't return, use a plant-safe insecticide or this homemade recipe for insecticidal soap: Combine 1 Tbsp. (15 ml) vegetable oil, 3 Tbsp (16 g) cayenne pepper, and 1 Tbsp. (12 g) natural fat-derived soap (not liquid dish soap) in 1 quart (.95 liters) of warm water. Use a spray bottle to give your plant a thorough coating, but not  before testing on a small part of  the plant and leaving the soap in place for a day to ensure it doesn't cause any damage. Fungus infections can range from harmless to potentially fatal. If you see a white or grey fuzzy growth on the surface of the soil, you don't need to be terribly concerned, as this fungus is not a danger to the plant (though it can irritate some humans, especially those susceptible to allergies). To clear this minor fungal growth, you may want to try sprinkling cinnamon (which has anti-fungal properties) on the  fungus. However, if the lily itself develops a dark or black coating on its stalk or leaves for no other apparent reason (frost damage, etc.), your plant likely has a serious fungal infection. Discarding the entire plant is always a viable option in this case, as fungal spores can be very persistent, remaining in the soil and surrounding area for a significant amount of time, where they can re-infect other plants. However, if you'd like to try to save the plant, carefully remove all the affected areas of the plant and discard them somewhere that they'll pose no danger. (like your garbage). Next, water the plant with compost tea, a natural fungicide, to attempt to kill spores that remain in the soil.

SUMMARY: Recognize the signs of  under-watering and over-watering. Repot a plant with root rot. Use insecticidal soap to remove pests like aphids or mites. Clean or dispose of a fungus-infected plant.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: If you’re not using the sextant from aboard a ship at sea, you’ll have to correct your sighting for your height above sea level. Look at a map that includes information about your elevation or use an app (such as Google Maps) to check your elevation. Write down your elevation so you can use it later to correct your readings.  Since the sextant measures the angle between an object in the sky and the horizon, your reading will be less accurate if you’re not making a measurement from the level of the horizon (or sea level). You’ll need to correct that difference to find the true altitude of the object you’re observing. The difference between your elevation and the level of the horizon is called “dip.” Even if you’re at sea level, you still need to make a dip correction to take into account the difference between the horizon level and the height of your eye. Look through the sighting scope at the horizon line, which you will see through the horizon mirror. The horizon mirror is only partially silvered, allowing you to look through it and the sighting scope at the horizon beyond it.  The horizon line forms the baseline for the angle of elevation of the object you’re determining the position of. Your sextant may not regard the horizon line as being 0 degrees. If it doesn’t, you’ll have to correct the angle measure of the object you’re trying to determine by the same amount as the horizon line error. This error is called index error. A second mirror, the index mirror, is mounted on the moving arm. Move the arm until you can see the object you’re trying to find the altitude of (such as the sun or the moon) reflected on the horizon mirror from the index mirror.  Moving the arm rotates the index mirror until light hitting the index mirror hits the reflective portion of the horizon mirror. This makes the object in the index mirror appear to rest on the horizon.  Sextants designed for looking at the sun include shade glasses to protect your eyes from the sun’s rays. Once you spot the object you’re observing on the horizon mirror, move the arm back and forth slightly to adjust the position of the index mirror. Move it until the object appears to rest close to the level of the horizon as you look through the scope.  If your sextant has a clamp, use it to lock the index arm in place so it can’t swing around freely once you have the object in position. Some sextants have a pair of levers that you squeeze to make larger adjustments with the arm. Release the levers once you have the arm positioned roughly where you want it. Locate the micrometer knob or screw at the bottom of your sextant and turn it to fine-tune the positioning of the index mirror. Make the adjustments gradually while swaying the sextant from side to side until the object just touches the horizon. For example, if you were sighting the sun, you’d make fine adjustments with the micrometer knob until it appeared that the bottom curve (or “lower limb”) of the sun was just resting on the horizon. As soon as you get the object in position, look at your watch or phone. Write down the time in hours, minutes, and seconds, starting with the seconds first to avoid errors.  For instance, if you’re making a measurement of the sun’s elevation at 16 seconds past 7:35 in the morning, you would write down “7:35:16 AM.” Quickly recording the time is especially important if you’re using a sextant in marine navigation, since your position and the position of objects in the sky are both changing.

SUMMARY:
Use a map to find your position above sea level. Sight the horizon by looking through the scope at the horizon mirror. Move the index arm until you see the object you’re trying to measure. Adjust the arm until the object appears close to the horizon. Turn the micrometer knob until the object rests on the horizon. Record the time at which you made your sighting.