In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: When your crush is around, chat with their potential rivals, including their friends. Keep the conversation casual so that the person you’re flirting with doesn’t actually ask you out.  Say something like, “How was your weekend?” or “I have so much homework to do this weekend, but I can’t miss my friend’s party.” Make sure that you don’t throw yourself at others.  If you get asked out by your crush’s friend, then you may become off-limits to your crush because of friend loyalty. It doesn’t matter if you think something is funny, laughing is a key part of flirting. It also shows your crush that you have a good sense of humor and are fun to be around. Your crush will pick up on flirty body language, even if it’s directed at other people. While you don’t want to go overboard, doing a little bit of flirting with body language will be enough to make your crush green with envy. It will work best if you aim your flirty vibes at a group rather than a specific individual because that way no one will think you’re coming onto them.  Smile or pucker your lips. Get closer to the other person. Playfully touch their arm. Keep your arms down to your side or gesturing; don’t cross them or fidget. Twirling your hair or sweeping it over your shoulder is a timeless flirting technique. As a bonus, playing with your hair will stir the scent of your shampoo and your pheromones.  Wrap pieces of hair around your finger. If your hair is up, take it down and shake it out. You can always put it back up again if you need it out of your face.
Summary: Talk to other potential dates. Laugh and giggle at the other person’s jokes. Use body language. Play with your hair.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: The sturdiest option is a pair of cheap glasses or sunglasses from a drugstore or dollar store, with the plastic lenses popped out. At that point, you're not saving much money compared to ready-made 3D glasses, so many people prefer to use poster board, cardstock, or ordinary paper folded in half.  A sturdy poster board such as oak tag will last longer than other paper options.  Cutting and folding the glasses frame is pretty intuitive, but you can print, cut out, and trace this template onto heavier stock if you prefer. Just about any type of clear plastic should work. Whichever you choose, cut it out to be slightly larger than the eye holes in the glasses frames, so you have room to tape them together. Here are a few commonly available options:  Cellophane. This is the thin, flexible plastic sometimes used as "windows" on food packaging, or to wrap CD cases.  Transparency sheet for overhead projectors. You can buy these at office supply stores. A hard CD "jewel case" itself. This should only be cut by a competent adult, due to the risk of shattering. Score the plastic repeatedly and lightly with a utility knife until there is a deep groove, then bend lightly to snap it apart.  Acetate sheets (also called acetate film) are available at art supply stores or theatrical/stage lighting stores. These already come in red and cyan, so you can skip the coloring step. Use permanent markers to color one side of each lens. These glasses work best when you use cyan instead of blue, but blue is a more common marker color and works pretty well.  If the color looks patchy or inconsistent, smudge it together with your finger.  The room should look darker when you look through the lens. If it's still pretty light, color the other side of the lens as well. Red goes over the LEFT eye, and blue goes over the RIGHT. Tape the lens to the frame, and take care not to tape over the lenses themselves, or you'll get a fuzzy image. Try on the glasses and look at your 3D image. If you are viewing a TV or computer screen and you don't see the 3D effect, adjust the monitor's hue and tint settings until the blue on the screen becomes invisible through your right lens. It should be obvious when this happens, since the image will suddenly "pop" into 3D. Anaglyph glasses are the oldest form of 3D image technology. The same image is drawn once in red and once in cyan (blue–green), slightly offset. When viewed through glasses with the same colored lenses, each eye can only detect the image of the opposite color. Because your two eyes are detecting what looks like the same image from slightly different perspectives, you interpret it as a real 3D object.  Some 3D DVDs (but not BluRay) and games that advertise "anaglyph" or "stereoscopic" modes will work with these glasses. Search online for "anaglyph" videos and images to find more 3D content. Most 3D TVs and movie theaters use different technology. If a 3D screen or image contains any colors besides red and cyan, these glasses will not help you.
Summary: Create or reuse a pair of glasses frames. Cut out clear plastic to use as lenses. Color one lens red and one lens blue. Tape the lenses over the eye holes. Adjust your monitor's hue and tint. Use these glasses to view red and blue 3D images.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: The fumes from the cleaning agents and bathtub reglazers are dangerous, so it’s important that you ensure your bathroom is well ventilated before getting started.  You should also open the doors and windows in the rooms adjacent to the bathroom for air flow. If you don’t have a fan or a window, be sure to open as many windows in the adjacent room as possible to increase airflow and allow the fumes to exit. The fan will not only help to ensure air is being circulated through the bathroom, but it will also help to dry the bathtub faster. The tub will need to be completely dry before moving on from a number of steps in the refinishing process.  Place the box fan in the window for maximum circulation. If you don’t have a bathroom window, place it in the bathroom doorway instead. All the caulk will have to be removed before you can refinish the tub. Most of the caulk will be in the seam where the tub meets the wall and the floor, but there may also be a strip that's sealing any glass shower doors over the tub. To remove the caulk, slice into it with the edge of the putty knife lengthwise, like you’re splitting it in half. Continue to slice into the caulk like that until it becomes loose enough to cut out. Once there are a number of slices through the caulk, it will be easier to use the putty knife to pry up and remove the caulk. A razor blade isn’t very effective for large deposits of caulk, but it will do wonders on hard to remove, thin layers than remain after most of the caulk has been removed. Most caulk can be found where the tub meets the wall, but in bathtub showers with glass doors instead of a shower curtain, there may also be caulk where the door fixtures meet the tub. Press the razor into the tub surface at a 45 degree angle, then slide it into the caulk repeatedly to scrape it up. If any proves harder to remove, scrape it off with 120 grit sandpaper.  This may be the longest, hardest portion of the job, as all the caulk needs to be removed. Rinse or brush away the caulk as you remove it so you can easily see what you’re doing. With all of the caulk removed, spray a commercial strength bathtub cleaner over the entire tub surface. Then use a clean rag or sponge to thoroughly clean the tub.  You may have to repeat this step more than once to get all of the soap scum and grime out of an old tub. It must be completely clean before moving on. Once you’re finished, take a step back and make sure you haven’t missed anything. Any grime, caulk, or debris left in the tub will prevent the new finish from sealing properly. If you spot anything still in the tub, repeat the appropriate step to clean or scrape it away.
Summary:
Turn on your bathroom fan and open the doors and windows. Use a box fan to increase air flow. Use a putty knife to cut away the caulk sealing the tub. Remove any remaining caulk with a razor blade and sandpaper. Use commercial tub cleaner on the entire tub. Inspect the tub for any leftover silicone, caulk, or grime.