Summarize the following:
When priming and painting, weather must be considered. Each product will state acceptable temperature ranges but a good rule of thumb is to not paint in weather colder than 50 F (10 C) or on rainy days. Moisture from dew or rain will ruin a new application of paint. When priming or painting, begin on a portion that is shaded from the sun as painting in direct sunlight can cause cracks and bubbles from drying too fast. In turn, any bubbles or cracks will have to be sanded out after drying. After coating your roller in primer, roll quickly but with even pressure, along the panel of siding. Next, roll backwards in the opposite direction. This is to ensure an even and complete coat has been applied. Applying primer should only take a few seconds per foot applied. Apply at least two coats of primer sparingly to the siding to ensure proper coverage.  Don't worry if you can see the metal or previous paint through the primer. Your coat should be thin enough to dry fast but still visible to the eye. Always begin priming at one end of the siding. By working left to right, or right to left, rather than starting in the middle, the primer will dry evenly as you work. This is a great way to avoid visible lines dried within your progress. Allow full drying time between coats. If you don't wait long enough, peeling or bubbling can occur. Full drying time will vary between brands, however, a four hour drying time is a good rule of thumb. Since it is to be covered up, primer can be great practice for airbrushing techniques. Paint in long, even strokes, making sure not to overdo it. If your paint is dripping then you have too much.  Work from the top down to eliminate dripping paint from ruining your hard work. If your siding is horizontal, paint left to right. If vertical, paint up to down. This ensures even coats and will prevent you from missing any spots.   As a rule of thumb, paint takes two hours to dry. To test the dryness of your paint, touch the siding with your finger in an inconspicuous area. If the paint no longer feels tacky or sticky, it's completely dried. This means you're ready for your second coat. Plan your breaks. Any siding that is partially painted and left to dry is at risk for lasting, visible lines. This can be avoided by finishing each individual piece of siding as you go. If any bumps are present within the first coat, they can be removed by an additional sanding before the second application of paint. Be gentle when removing impurities from the first coat because if you sand too hard you'll be back at square one. Always check that that the initial paint is dried before continuing on with the second coat.  You don't want to strip off any of the paint while removing impurities. If it happens, though, dab on some primer to cover the raw aluminum. While a second coat of paint isn't a necessity, it adds a look of professionalism. The second coat also increases the durability of the paint, overall increasing the value of your new siding.  If you're seeing lines in your first coat, it's because you're painting too slow. A line in the color is from the paint drying and being over painted. To eliminate the line, try working in a smaller area while keeping your edges wet and painting your siding in panels without pausing in between strokes. Painting your second coat carefully will allow you to hide any lines from the first coat.

summary: Apply products on the right day. Prime the siding and allow full drying time. Paint the siding. Apply a second coat of paint.


Summarize the following:
Release and set the brake repeatedly in an attempt to help dislodge any ice from the brake system. Shovel snow or arrange other material along the sides of the vehicle.  Doing this will create a path for air flow from front to rear of the vehicle, minimizing “losses” from under the vehicle’s sides.  The objective is to get the heat created by the engine and circulated to the radiator at the front of the vehicle, to the rear of the vehicle where most of the parking brake components are located (adjust for locations that differ from those offered in this article).  Creating a “channel” under the vehicle by piling snow, etc. in the space under the sides of the vehicle accomplishes just that. If ice is preventing the release of your parking brake, warming up the car can help melt the ice and free the brake. Start the car and leave it running for at least 10 minutes before attempting to release the parking brake. Wait outside the vehicle while it is running. Once the engine has warmed, the heated air pulled through the radiator by the fan and heat created by the exhaust system will pass under the length of the vehicle.  The more effort used to “seal” the open spaces under the sides of the vehicle, ensures that the warm air passes under its entire length and allows the thaw process to complete in the least amount of time.
summary: Start the car first. Block as much of the open space between the ground and sides of the vehicle if the brake is still frozen. Allow the car to warm up.