Q: Fire a round at your target; now, slowly release the trigger until you hear a click, and resistance on the trigger is lessened. At this point you can pull the trigger again.  This not only allows you to be more accurate while doing single-shots (due to the shorter trigger pull), but when you get your finger used to the motion, it is the best way to shoot the gun quickly. You have to release the trigger completely before it can be pulled again.  SA and DA/SA will be easiest for this drill, as they will have lighter trigger pulls than their DA (or DAO) counterparts. The first thing is to practice (at close range — 4-8 yards) shooting the gun as fast as possible. The faster you can pull the trigger the more options it leaves for you. bullet is fired, slide racks back, shell ejected, as the slide moves forward the rest of the gun (frame, barrel, etc.) raises (this is called muzzle flip), as soon as the slide is back in battery (full-forward) the gun can fire again. The final slide position happens before the gun has gone back to its original position in your hands. If you wait too long, the gun will actually bounce below the original position, firing during that stage will cause the bullet to land low. You can either wait a bit longer (but that removes the word "rapid" from this drill), or you can time the firing to when the gun is falling past the rest position.  You can also increase the cycle speed of gun in your hands by getting a tighter/firmer grip on the gun (too firm for accurate single-shot shooting). If you do this, timing is more important, but it allows you to shoot faster. Note that each gun, and each caliber will have totally different cycle times, so being practiced with few handguns is best. If you get the timing wrong, you will find hitting a target consistently even at 5 yards (4.6 m) can become difficult. If your bullets are hitting high after the first one, try shooting a bit slower. You can alternatively try tightening your grip on the gun. If you are shooting low, either shoot faster or loosen your grip on the gun. Once you are able to do that, or get close to that, you can add other drills: setup two or more targets. Fire four or five rounds at one target, then turn to the next target and so on. This combines one of the earlier-mentioned shooting drills and the rapid fire drill.
A: Glock and other Constant Double Action (DAO) pistols (such as QA Walthers, LEM, and DKA triggers) have a trigger which has a reset-point after the gun has been fired. Most other pistols (single-action—SA, double-action—DA, double/single-action—DA/SA) are a bit more standard. After you have your trigger pull down. The process of the gun when you fire a bullet is such: If you pull the trigger before the gun is at rest in your hands you will shoot higher than the first bullet. With some practice you will find you can do 10–12 inch (25.4–30.5 cm) groupings at 7 yards (6.4 m).

Q: These types of headbands look like a strip of ribbon joined by the ends with about 4 inches (10 cm) of elastic. Do not use an elastic headband; the Velcro will prevent it from stretching. This method is not recommended for sheer or lace headbands because the Velcro will be visible. Use the puffy paint method, but with hot glue. The Velcro can be any color, but black would work the best because it won't get dirty as fast. The exact width of the Velcro doesn't matter, as long as it is narrower than the ribbon.  If you can get Velcro in multiple colors, match the color to the ribbon. If you can't find something narrower, get Velcro that's the same width instead. Avoid self-adhesive Velcro. The glue isn't very strong and it will create a sticky, gummy mess—not a good combination for hair!
A: Get a ribbon headband with an elastic closure. Purchase Velcro that's a little narrower than the ribbon.

Q: Pinching refers to the pinching off of the top of the stems of a plant to encourage bushy growth and blossoming. Pinching can be done alongside the removal of dead blooms in late spring to early summer, as doing it before winter can also cause the mum to be vulnerable to the cold weather. Pinching is not strictly necessary but is a good addition to your deadheading routine, as it can make your plant fuller and healthier while keeping the shape of the plant compact and bushy. Because pinching is best done on tall stalks that you want bushier and more fruitful, take a good look during the late spring and early summer for stalks that you want shorter. It’s best to pinch your mums once the new shoots that emerge in the spring are 3 to 4 inches (7.62- 10.16 cm) high. Also look for any tips that look dead or browned. Once you have identified some stalks that should be pinched, grasp the tip of a shoot right under the first set of leaves, about ½ to 1 inch (1.27 to 2.54 cm) down the stem from the tip. Use your fingernails to pinch off this tip and discard the pinched off tip of the plant. Repeat the process of pinching on all unhealthy or overly-tall stems. Pinching not only shortens the height of a tall plant, it also allows encourages rapid growth of leaves and blooms right below the pinched off area. The optimal time to stop pinching for most mums is in mid July so that the plant has time to blossom and grow before blooming season. If your mum plant is an early cultivator then you should stop around mid-June, and if it is a late cultivator like a “Minnyellow” or a “Minngopher” mum, you can get away stopping pinching around early August. Look up your type of mum to see whether it is an early or a late cultivator.
A:
Pinch mums during late spring and early summer. Identify leggy stalks to be pinched. Grasp the tip under the first set of leaves. Pinch the tip off with your fingernails. Stop pinching in mid June to early August.