If you have a fight with a friend or coworker, try to talk through the problem first. Being cold and aloof can permanently damage a relationship, so make sure you’re ready to cut off contact before giving them the cold shoulder. Aloofness can be useful--and even necessary--if you need to protect yourself from a toxic friend or ex. That's because aloofness allows you to limit your emotional involvement with people who hurt you in the past. Aloofness can be helpful if you need to emotionally distance yourself from co-worker drama or have a stressful job that calls for intense focus. However, in more social jobs that require teamwork, it may not be the best idea.  Don’t be aloof towards your boss unless it’s absolutely necessary. To keep your job and have a good work experience, It’s important that you stay on friendly terms. A little bit of aloofness at work can help you buckle down and meet necessary deadlines.
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One-sentence summary -- Use aloofness as a last resort to deal with conflict. Be aloof to distance yourself from toxic relationships. Use aloofness at work to maintain focus and avoid drama.


Regular spray paint will adhere best to the smooth surface of a steel tumbler, but you’ll need to scuff the surface slightly for the best results.  Apply chalk paint to your steel tumbler using a foam brush if you don't want to use spray paint. You can use acrylic paint or markers to paint an acrylic tumbler, but even with sealant, the paint will have a tendency to flake off over time. Roughing up the surface a little will help the paint stick to it better, so your design will last longer. Depending on the grit of the sandpaper you use, you should only need about 5-10 passes with the sandpaper to get the texture you need. Try to only sand the area you’re planning on painting, otherwise it will be visible after your project is completed. Even if it’s not visible, dirt and oils may be present on your tumbler from where you or other people have handled it. Use an alcohol pad or a cotton ball soaked in alcohol to wipe down your tumbler, then let it dry completely. If you’re trying to create a design, you can cut a stencil out from a sheet of vinyl, or you can purchase an adhesive stencil from a craft store. Peel the backing off the the stencil and attach it to the tumbler, smoothing out any bumps or winkles. If there are any gaps or wrinkles in the stencil, paint can seep underneath it and mess up your design. , letting each coat dry before applying the next. If you apply too much paint at once, it could start to bubble and drip. To avoid this, hold the spray paint can at least 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) away from the tumbler, and only spray in short, quick bursts. Move the can side to side as you spray to keep the paint from pooling in one area.  Allow the paint to dry for at least 10 minutes between coats. After the final coat, let the tumbler dry for 2-3 hours. If you used a stencil, remove it before the tumbler has fully dried so the paint doesn't peel off. Hold the spray paint about 8–10 inches (20–25 cm) from the tumbler. Use a darker color to spray the bottom and a lighter color on the top, and let the 2 colors overlap slightly.  Try pairing 2 shades of the same color, like turquoise and sea green. You could also contrast 2 different colors for a more striking effect, like red on the bottom and yellow on the top. A paint sealer is a clear coat that will help create a barrier that will prevent the paint from flaking off. You can purchase this wherever you bought your painting supplies. Spray the sealer evenly over the tumbler, using the same side-to-side motion you used while painting. Let the sealer dry for an additional 2-3 hours.
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One-sentence summary -- Use spray paint if you want to paint a stainless steel tumbler. Scuff the surface of the tumbler with 140-180 grit sandpaper. Wipe down the tumbler with alcohol to remove dirt and oils. Apply the stencil to the tumbler if you’re using one. Spray light coats of paint Layer colors if you want to create an ombre effect. Spray the tumbler with a paint sealer to lock in the paint.


You can use transfer an image to pretty much any sturdy surface: wood, plastic, even canvas. Make sure the surface is clean and that any paint you want to use is dried. You’ll need to download your image (or images) of choice to your computer, and then print them on printable tattoo paper. This paper is usually available at most craft stores, or from online retailers like Amazon. Make sure the image you want to print on the paper will fit onto your craft. You might have to size it down a bit to make it fit. The pack of printable tattoo paper will come with an adhesive sheet. Peel the protective layer off the adhesive – it’s usually a bright color like green – and smooth it over the image you’re using. Then trim around the edges of your image, cutting the adhesive sheet down as closely to the outline of the image as possible. With the adhesive sheet on the image, it will now have the layer of adhesive and then a layer of clear plastic film over. Peel this clear film back to expose the sticky layer of adhesive on top of the image. Before you stick it to your object, make sure you have it lined up the way you want it. You can’t unstick the image if it’s a little off-center, so be careful when you’re applying it. You can use a cotton towel or paper towel for this step, but a cotton towel works best. Press the damp towel down on the back of the image gently, until the whole thing is moistened. Start at a corner of the image, and gently pull the backing paper back. As the paper comes back, the image should stay on the surface of your craft. If you notice that the image is also pulling away, put the backing paper back down and remoisten that area. This type of spray is available at most craft stores. It will seal the image and prevent any of the ink from flaking off in the future. Let the glaze fully dry before you move your craft – about 30 minutes.
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One-sentence summary -- Prepare the surface of your craft. Print your chosen images on printable tattoo paper. Apply the included adhesive to your image. Peel the clear plastic film off the image. Place the image picture-side down on your craft. Moisten the back of the image with a wet towel. Peel the backing paper off gently. Seal the image with a glaze spray. Finished.


As you jump, pull up on the handlebars to lift the scooter up with you. Tuck your knees to get even more elevation and create as much clearance as possible between the wheels and the ground.  Try not let your feet come up before the deck. If your timing is off, you’ll lose track of where it is in relation to your feet. The higher you jump, the more time you’ll be buying yourself to get the deck all the way around before you land. Once you reach the peak of your jump, flick the rear edge of the deck hard with your toes. It will begin to swing outward in a wide circle away from you. This is the “whip” part of the tailwhip.  If you’re in a regular stance, you’ll initiate the kick with your right foot. If you’re a goofy rider, use your left foot. Push against the side of the brake rather than the thinner part of the deck to give yourself a bigger target to aim for. At the same moment that your feet leave the deck, tilt the handlebars slightly in the direction that it's moving and “pump” your arms up and down. Then, tilt the other way as it starts to swing back around. If you do this correctly, it will cause the deck to rotate faster.  The arm motion is subtle, and it can be a little tricky to get the hang of it. It may be helpful to practice picking up and spinning the scooter on its own before you incorporate the movement into the trick.  Remember, your hands should never leave the handlebar grips during the tailwhip.
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One-sentence summary --
Jump as high as you can. Kick the deck of the scooter behind you with your back foot. Use your arms to assist the spin during the whip.