Be sure there is no chance of people, cars, domestic animals, or the like that can enter into your practice area. Choose somewhere in the wilderness away from people to avoid any mistakes.  Be sure there is no property nearby that could be damaged like windows, cars, pool sides, or the like. etc. Generally, select a soft target to avoid damaging your spear. This also avoids a ricochet. Wooden targets should be saved until you have gotten the hang of throwing a powerful throw. Good targets include:  Hay bales Commercial targets (although these are usually designed for firearms or archery). Soft earth. A grassy lawn is good for practicing throwing techniques for distance. Like any weapon, you must treat this spear as a force to be reckoned with. If you play around with the spear and aren’t careful, you could jeopardize somebody’s life. If you bought spearheads to be attached to the shaft or have a similar object around, practice with it. You can still find the balance point and practice your stance without the sharp edge. Like the regular spear, you should also take care in handling your practice spear. Look for rubber tipped spearheads for an authentic feel and throw.  A spear without an edge can still harm others or damage property. The spear works mainly on concentrated force, and while the spearhead facilitates damage, it will certainly do damage without it. A spear without a spearhead is still a spear. It is not safe, or disarmed. Some people learn better with a knowledgeable guide. Although it sounds simple, throwing a spear properly takes skill, technique, a knowledge of your materials, and safety procedures. The spear throwing community is small so look into Renaissance festivals and cosplay groups. Some colleges may have anthropologists who have studied various primitive techniques as well. You can learn on your own as well. But this will usually involve a lot of trial and error and bad technique can be hard to "un-learn". Many schools have javelin throwers as part of their track and field team. Throwing a javelin is similar to throwing a spear. Joining a javelin team will train you for competitive throwing. There are even programs and associations for various track and field events created for adults, or those outside of school. Javelin training will prepare you for the spear throwing stances, grips, and other tactics.
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One-sentence summary -- Choose your range. Choose a suitable target. Treat the spear with respect. Practice without spearheads. Find a mentor. Join a javelin program.

Q: The first thing to do is remove any polish that's already on your nails. Soak a cotton ball with nail polish remover and run it over your nails until all the polish is gone.  A Q-Tip can help with hard-to-reach edges. When choosing nail polish remover, be aware that those with acetone are more effective, but also more likely to damage your hands. Non-acetone nail polish removers are less strong, but also less harmful.  There are also  alternate options for nail polish remover.  Moisturize your hands to counteract the drying effects of the nail polish remover. Use nail clippers to cut your nails straight across -- this is the healthiest way to clip, and you'll shape your nails later. A recommended length is to the edge of your toe. Get your nails to the desired shape. Be careful not to leave jagged edges, as they can uncomfortably scrape against shoes and socks.  Make sure your nail file is in good condition and hasn’t become dull. The best filing technique is not to move your nail back and forth over the file, but to scrape the file in a single motion across the tip of your nail and repeat until you’ve finished. The nails on your toes are usually rougher than those on your fingers since they're always rubbing against socks and shoes. Use a nail buffer to smooth down ridges and grooves. Buffing helps remove any residuals left by your old pedicure and primes the nail to soak up the base coat. Wash with soap and water to get rid of the nail polish remover smell. Be sure to dry your feet before painting - water will dilute nail polish and ruin your pedicure.
A: Remove your old polish. Clip your nails. File your nails. Buff the tops of the nails. Wash up.

Article: When it finally comes time to lay your carpet runner, it's best to start at the very top and work your way down. That way, you'll have gravity on your side, and it'll be much easier to cut any runoff carpet at the end. If you traced the carpet outline at the beginning of the project, it should be an easy matter of getting the carpet situation between the two as close as you can. Take care to press the carpet under the nose and tug the rest out to make sure you're getting just as much carpet as you need. Work down to the last step; when you're done, the carpet should be covering the expected ground, but the outline of the steps may not be fully visible. Make sure each step is as good as it can get before you move down to the next-- any mistake will cause a load of undue strain later on once the project is supposedly complete. A carpet knee-kicker will get the carpet planted firmly in areas that may be otherwise difficult to reach.  Place the front edge of your carpet knee-kicker on center of the runner about two inches from the riser and apply pressure until the carpet is locked in. They can be remarkably satisfying to use, and will give your stairs a much tighter look than if done without.   Lean on the front knob of the kicker with one hand, and use the other hand to keep the kicker's shaft level.  You can also use a carpet chisel. The dull edge helps tighten up corners and is easier to use on stairs or in tight quarters. As with previous steps, the last part of using the knee-kicker should be making sure you got the job done to your satisfaction. Without kicking in properly, you may have too much carpet or too little, and it'll require uprooting or even destroying the progress you've made. Before you move on, you should ensure that the carpet is being snagged by the tackless strip at the far end of the tread. If the tackless strips aren't properly clinging to the carpet, it could result in the carpet getting bumpy a few years down the road. Using a chisel or other thin tool, press the angle between the step's height and tread to make sure it's getting hooked in. At the bottom, there should be a little bit of runoff. From here, it's just a simple matter of cutting the excess carpet away with a carpet knife. Feel free to do what you will with the remainder of the carpet. Some people are quick to throw them out, while others like to find practical uses for them. Having a powerful stapler designed for home improvement is necessary to finish things off and get your carpet snug and perfect. When stapling, push stapler through the carpet pile and against the backing before pulling the trigger.  Staple on the underside of the step noses, and nearest the angle between the tread and height. Staple at three inch intervals for optimal stability. Alternatively, you can use carpet glue instead of staples. Make absolutely certain that the carpet is exactly where you want it to be before you staple. After you staple, it will be next to impossible to correct any mistakes.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Start at the top of the staircase. Place runner between layout pencil marks. Press your carpet into the outline of the steps with a carpet knee-kicker. Verify the kicking is complete once you're done. Verify your work is correct. Carefully cut any excess carpet at the bottom of the steps. Staple each step through to the wood.