In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: To display a sports jersey, use a shadowbox frame, which is a shallow, framed, rectangular box is usually use. Shadow boxes have a glass front that is ideal for displaying and protecting bulky items, because they provide more space between the backing and the glass than a traditional frame does. The inside of the frame will need to have at least 1 inch (25.4 mm) of space between it and your jersey. The typical jersey-size frame is 40-inches by 32-inches.  Choose a frame that is stained or painted a color that matches your jersey, and the décor in your home. Look for a shadow box with UV-protective glass. There are certain frames made specifically for jerseys, but they tend to be very expensive. A shadow box with the right dimensions will most likely be much cheaper than a frame made especially for a jersey. Unlike with a regular picture frame, the backing that comes with your shadow box may not be all you need to use for your framing project. For a jersey, typically you need foam backing to provide support (this might come in the frame), and an acid-free archival backing paper to go over the top. You may or may not choose to use matting around the edges for extra effect.  A lot of framers choose to use dry mounting to prepare the backing for the frame. This safely attaches the archival paper to the backboard. The backing paper should be a neutral color that complements your jersey. For completing your project, you’ll also need a measuring tape, an x-acto knife, a sewing needle (embroidery works best), clear thread (like fishing line), and whatever mounting materials you chose to use (specific to the type of backing you’re using). You’ll probably also want a clothing iron, so that you can prepare your jersey for framing and help the folds to lie flat inside the frame.
Summary: Choose the right frame. Select a backing. Get the rest of your supplies.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Use a needle and hair thread for maximum security. If you do not have the time, you can also use bobby pins. Hair thread is a lot more secure than bobby pins, which tend to fall out if you play with your hair or are planning to be active. Placing the wig just behind your natural hairline, sew it to the cornrowed hair at the middle of your head, the back of your head, the nape of your neck, and at both sides of your head. If you have chosen to create a part in your hair, also sew your wig at the part. Depending on your time and budget, you may seek a hair care specialist to attach your wig. Don’t be discouraged if this is your first time. With time and practice you will become more proficient at applying both a secure and natural look. As you have placed your weave behind your natural hairline and kept the natural hair at the edges of your face in twists or clipped, unravel your natural hair once you’re satisfied with the positioning of your wig. Adjust your natural hair together with the wig you have just made out of weave to create a natural looking blend. Ensure that the texture is maintained throughout your head. Make sure your natural hair still has the same type of kink or curl as your wig.
Summary: Ensure you weave the wig securely to your head . Strategically combine your wig with your natural hair. Unravel your natural hair.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: You can polish any stone you wish, but there are certain characteristics of a stone that will make it easier to polish. If you want an easy stone to polish, pick a somewhat softer stone like onyx, limestone or calcite. Stones that are very hard will take a much longer time to polish. However, though hard rocks take a long time to sand, they yield more shine than softer rocks.  To tell if a stone is soft, scratch it with another rock. If the scratch looks chalky, the stone is soft. Also try to pick a rock with a roundish shape, without major protrusions or indentations. If your rock is dirty, wash it thoroughly with soap and water. Use a scrub brush to remove any stubborn dirt or debris. After you are done washing the rock, pat it dry. If you want your rock to be rounder, use a small hammer or a chisel to chip away at the stone. Put on safety glasses to protect your eyes from chipped off rock, and wear safety gloves if you wish. Chip at any outcroppings or sections that jut out.  If you are happy with the shape of your rock, don’t worry about shaping it. You can also rub the stone over a slab of concrete to break off any protrusions. 50 grade is the roughest grade of sandpaper, and is great for further shaping your rock. Use the sandpaper on any protrusions or bumps in the rock you want to smooth. If you are happy with the overall shape of the rock, give the rock an even sanding with the 50 grade sandpaper to smooth it evenly. Take the stone and rub it with the 150 grade sandpaper. You may notice that the coarse 50 grade sandpaper left scratches in the rock; go over these scratches with the 150 grade sandpaper to smooth and erase these scratches. Do an overall sanding of the rock with sandpaper in a grade from 300 to 600. Focus particularly on any scratches in the rock. This grade of sandpaper is fine and won’t create scratches, but it can correct any scratches left by the sandpaper in other grades. After you are done sanding your rock, polish it using leather and tube polish. Purchase a tube of polish and a sheet of leather from a hardware store if you don’t already have them around the house. Then put a couple dabs of polish on the leather and rub the stone against it. This should give the stone a beautiful, lustrous shine. Make sure not to buy colored polish, or it may stain the stone.
Summary:
Choose the right rock. Wash the rock. Shape the rock. Rub the stone of rough grade sandpaper. Use fine grade sandpaper to remove scratches. Sand with 300 to 600 grade sandpaper. Rub the stone with a piece of leather with polish.