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Create your side templates. Create the template for the top. Create the template for the blades. Transfer your template shapes to the plywood. Cut out your shapes from the plywood. Cut a 1-foot length from a 1/2” wooden dowel. Drill ½” holes into the center of the “X” shape and the circle. Sand the pieces. Paint or stain the pieces. Construct the windmill body. Use painter’s tape to connect the body pieces. Set the windmill body upright. Apply wood glue to the top rim of the body. Flip the windmill body upside down. Apply wood glue inside the center hole in the “X”. Draw a 6” straight line on the hexagon. Attach the blades to the body. Paint on final details.
Draw a polygon shape on a large sheet of cardboard or paper. If you use paper, use a heavyweight paper such as butcher paper or posterboard. The shape should be 9 inches on top, 12 inches on bottom, and 20 inches tall. Cut out the template. This will be used to create the sides of your windmill. Draw a hexagon with 9.5” sides on a sheet of cardboard or heavy paper. Cut out the hexagon template. This will be used to create the platform at the top of your windmill. Draw an “X” shape on a large sheet of cardboard or heavy paper. Each arm of the “X” should be 16” long and 2” wide.  Measure 2” from the exact center of the “X” shape on four sides to create a square shape around the center of the “X”. Cut out the template as one piece, making sure not to cut into the square shape. Place the templates on your sheets of plywood. Use 1” plywood for the sides, top, and a 2”-diameter circle. Use ½” plywood for the “X”. Use a carpenter pencil to trace the shape of each template onto the wood. You will need six side pieces, one hexagonal top, one 2”-diameter circle, and one “X.”  Use a drafting compass to easily draw a 2”-diameter circle onto the plywood. If you have a jar or can whose diameter is 2”, you could also use it to trace the circle. It is best to trace all the pieces you need onto the plywood before you start cutting. This way you make sure that you have laid out the pieces efficiently and have enough wood to complete your project. Do not use “chipboard” or MDF as it is likely to fall apart when it becomes wet. Place the plywood onto two sawhorses for stability. Use a jigsaw to cut out all the pieces:  six side pieces, one hexagonal top, one “X” (for the blades), and one 2” circle. Circular saws are faster than jigsaws for long, straight cuts, but they cannot produce small shapes. If you have both, use a circular saw to cut out the sides and a jigsaw for the other pieces. Solid wood dowels such as oak or poplar will be the sturdiest. You can often find short dowels at craft supply stores, but you can also use dowels from hardware stores. If you do not have a 1/2”-diameter drill bit, use a drafting compass to draw a ½” circle on the wood first so that you can judge when the hole is large enough. The wooden dowel should be able to fit snugly inside these holes. Using a handheld sander or sandpaper, sand all the pieces except for the dowel. This step will give your wood a smooth, even finish. It will also prepare the wood for painting or staining. You can choose a vivid color for your Dutch windmills, or you can use a natural wood stain to show the beauty of your wood. Once you have painted or stained your pieces, let them dry completely. This may take 24-48 hours, depending on the humidity in your area. If you use paint, choose an outdoor latex paint. If you use stain, follow it with at least one coat of clear polyurethane in order to provide weatherproofing. Place one of your six sides on a flat surface such as a worktable or level floor. The short end should be at the top, and the long end at the bottom. Place another side piece next to this one, also with the short end at the top and the long end at the bottom.  Place a pencil between these pieces and push the wood together to form a gap the width of the pencil. Repeat this process with the remaining side pieces until you have laid all six side by side. Place strips of painter’s tape near the top, middle, and bottom of every joint created in the previous step. This will keep your side pieces together while you form the body shape. You may want to have a friend help you with this step. With the taped side facing outward, bring the edges of the body together to form a closed tower shape. Secure the final joint with painter’s tape. Test on a flat surface to make sure that the body is sitting level. If the body is not level, mark which piece(s) are too long and sand them down to stabilize the body. Sand gradually and check your work often. Place the hexagonal top onto the body. Press firmly, taking care not to push so hard that you collapse the body pieces. Set this aside and allow glue to dry completely. Apply wood glue to all seams inside the body. Don’t worry if you have some excess glue on the joints; you can scrape it off once it’s dry. Set aside and allow the glue to dry completely. Once the glue is dry, use a small chisel to scrape away the excess glue. Slide the 12” dowel about 2” into the hole. Apply wood glue around the seam. Allow to dry completely and then scrape off excess glue. Center the line in the middle of the hexagonal top. Pre-drill a hole at each end of this line. Screw in two screw eye hooks, adjusting so that the eyes are parallel. Slide the wooden dowel through both eyelets. The blades should have enough clearance from the body to spin freely. Apply wood glue to the inside of the center hole in the small wood circle and place it on the other end of the dowel. Dutch windmills sometimes have doors or windows, so if you’d like, you can use a small paintbrush to add these touches. You could also paint on flowers, animals, or other things you find appealing.