Write an article based on this "Unscrew the pieces gently. Clean your flute after each use. Attach a cloth to the cleaning rod. Wrap the cloth around the rod. Insert the rod into each section of the flute. Twist the rod to clean inside. Wipe the outside of the flute with a cloth. Don’t touch the key pads while cleaning. Use a cotton swab to clean tough to reach places."
article: In order to take apart your flute, gently unscrew the head-joint and foot-joint from the body of the flute. This should be done carefully. Be sure not to touch the keys or keypads because these can easily be damaged. Before you put away and store your flute, it is important that you remove the moisture from inside. If left uncleaned, your flute will not only begin to smell, but it will also tarnish on the inside. As a result, you should clean the inside and outside of your flute after every use. Thread a soft cloth through the needle-like slot in the end of your cleaning rod. Pull the cloth through the slot so that half of the cloth is on either side of the rod. Use a cloth made from a soft and thin material, such as a microfiber or cotton. Take the cloth and wrap it around the rod so that none of the rod is exposed. If the rod touches the flute while cleaning, it can scratch and damage the inside of the flute. Remove the moisture that builds up inside the flute, by gently inserting the cleaning rod into each section of the flute. For example, you will need to clean inside the head-joint, foot-joint, and body of the flute. The cloth will absorb and remove any moisture inside. When cleaning the body section of the flute, be sure to insert the cleaning rod into both ends of the flute. This will ensure that the entire inside is cleaned. You can gently twist the cleaning rod while it is inside the flute to ensure that all the moisture is absorbed. Carefully polish the flute with a microfiber cleaning cloth. While playing, grease and fingerprints can build up on the outside of the flute. Gently clean all of the keys and the body of the flute.  Pay particular attention to the ends (or tenons) where the separate pieces attach together. This is where gunk can often build up. Use your fingers and a cloth to clean around and inside the ends. Do not use cloths that contain metal polish. These can damage your flute and should be avoided. When you are cleaning, be sure to hold the flute by the barrel and avoid touching the key pads. These can be easily punctured and will cause damage to your flute. You can also bend the keys if you are too rough while cleaning. If the key pads or keys are damaged, take your flute to a professional for servicing and repair. You can use a cotton swab to remove dust and buildup between the keys. A cotton swab can also be used to clean the embouchure hole on the head-joint. Be very gentle and avoid touching the keypads.

Write an article based on this "Soil the baselines. Anchor your bases. Create a pitcher’s mound. Anchor your pitcher’s rubber. Finish the batter’s area. Create two foul lines. Erect a backstop."
article:
Use a sod cutter to remove the marked turf. Slice the turf into strips along each baseline,  creating a bare path of earth that is 3 feet wide. Roll the strips up and remove them from the area. Replace the turf with a mix of sand, clay, and silt. Use a mix that’s 50-75% sand and 25-50% clay and silt. A mix that’s too sandy will be unstable underfoot, while a mix with too much clay and silt will be too hard and compact. For each base, dig a 2’ x 2’ hole, 8.5” deep, where the base will be. Level the bottom and then set your anchor inside. Before burying the anchor, attach the base to the anchor's post. Double-check the anchor's placement by remeasuring the base’s distance from the back tip of home plate. Reposition the anchor if necessary. Then fill the hole back in with soil.  Compact the soil at the bottom of your hole to make sure your anchor doesn’t settle any farther down over time. Make sure the bottom is level so that the base will be, too. Also make sure that the soil you shovel back into the hole is compact by adding only small amounts at a time and packing that in before shoveling in more. Remember that for second base, you’re measuring from the back tip of home plate to the center of second base. For first and third bases, you’re measuring from the back tip of home plate to the foul-side corner of each base. The top of your anchor post should be roughly a half-inch below the top of your hole. Lay a 2x4 over the hole and measure the distance between its bottom and the top of the post to double-check the distance before burying the anchor. Remove the marked turf within your pitcher’s mound. Replace the turf with a mix of sand, clay, and silt. For adults, build your mound until the center rises 10 1/2 inches higher than home plate. For Little League, make your mound 6 inches at its highest. Then create the “slope” in front of the pitcher’s rubber by removing 1 inch of soil from the mound for every foot in front of the rubber, starting one foot out, until the soil reaches ground level at the edge of the mound. For the pitcher’s mound, use a mix that’s 40% sand, 20% silt, and 40% clay. Dig a 10” x 23” hole, 9.5” deep, where the rubber will be, with the longer side parallel to the front of home plate. Level the bottom, place the anchor inside, and stake it into position. Press soil along the base of each tube in the anchor to prevent concrete from leaking inside. Then fill the area surrounding the anchor with concrete without covering the anchor itself. Once the concrete has dried, withdraw the stakes and plug the anchor’s tubes. Refill the hole with soil. Then unplug the tubes and attach the rubber.  When you first place the anchor into the hole, attach the rubber. Double-check the anchor’s placement by measuring the distance between each of the rubber’s front corners with those of home plate to make sure they’re equidistant. Then gently remove the rubber without moving the anchor out of position. Compact the soil at the bottom of your hole to make sure your anchor doesn’t settle any farther down over time. Make sure the bottom is level so that the rubber will be, too. Also make sure that the soil you shovel back into the hole is compact by adding only small amounts at a time and packing that in before shoveling in more. The top of each tube should be 1.5” below the top of the hole. Lay a 2x4 over the hole and measure the distance between its bottom and the tubes’ tops to double-check the distance before pouring concrete. Remove the marked turf within your batter’s area. Replace the turf with a mix of sand, clay, and silt. Then outline your batter’s and catcher’s boxes with chalk.  Batter’s boxes (for both left-handed and right-handed players) are 4 feet wide and 6 feet long for adults, while those in Little League are 3 feet wide and 6 feet long. Measure the boxes so their midpoints are even with that of home plate. Allow six inches of free space between each box and home plate.  The catcher’s box is 43 inches wide and 8 feet long for adults, and 25 inches wide and 8 feet long for Little League. Measure your box so that it’s center is even with that of home plate. For each, begin your measurement from the back corner of home plate. From there, measure a distance of 325 feet along the outside of the square created by the baselines. At that distance, plant a pole marker. Then stretch a lining cord between the back corner of home plate and the pole marker. Chalk directly over the lining cord to create your foul line. Also an install a protective fence that extends 400 feet from home plate behind each foul line to shield spectators. Protect spectators behind the batter’s area from missed pitches and stray balls. Install a backstop 60 feet behind home plate for adult players; for Little League, install it 25 feet behind home plate.  Failing that, plant hedges instead to catch stray balls. Standard-sized backstops stand 30 to 40 feet high and measure 30 feet wide directly behind home plate, with 40-foot extensions running parallel with the baselines from either end. For a 30-foot height, dig foundation holes 2 feet in diameter and 7.5 feet deep for the supports. For a 40-foot height, make your holes 9.5 feet deep. Once they are placed inside each hole, secure the poles firmly in place by filling the hole with concrete.