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Dissolve 1 teaspoon (5.69 g) of salt in 1 cup (240 mL) of water. Keep the bowl near you as you work. When your hands start to get dry, dip them into the water again.  Using the water makes creating the onigiri much easier. The salt is traditionally used to keep the rice fresher for longer. Kosher salt works best, but you can use table salt. Table salt has a stronger taste, so be careful to avoid adding too much. Finish your onigiri with the easiest topper ever. Take a single strip of nori and wrap it over the center of the rice. This works for both round and triangular onigiri. The nori holds the rice ball in its shape while keeping your hands rice-free when you eat.  Larger strips of nori work particularly well with triangular onigiri. For instance, wrap the nori around the top sides of the triangle so the ends meet on the front surface. The nori forms a little coat. You do not have to use nori if you don’t want it. You can also top your onigiri with extras, including more filling, roe, or sesame seeds. Cover each ball tightly in plastic wrap to preserve it. Store the nori separately in a resealable container. Onigiri are meant to be portable snacks like sandwiches, so they can last a while, but the length of time depends on the filling you use.  Salty fillings like umeboshi last the longest, even when left outside of the refrigerator. Onigiri with perishable ingredients like fish and mayonnaise spoil faster. You can also freeze the onigiri. Store them in a labeled freezer bag after wrapping them individually. They will last about 3 months and can be reheated in the microwave.

summary: Wet your hands in salt water to prevent the rice from sticking to you. Wrap the onigiri with a piece of seaweed. Store onigiri individually for up to 3 days.


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Cut the soap base into ½ to 1 inch (1.27 to 2.54 centimeter) pieces. This will help the soap melt faster and more evenly. Some types of melt-and-pour soap bases have cutting guidelines, which you can use. Make sure that you are using the melt-and-pour type of soap base, as regular bars of soap from the store won't melt. You can find melt-and-pour soap bases in the craft store and online.  You can also use 12 ounces (340.2 grams) of white glycerin melt-and-pour soap base instead.  Melt-and-pour soap is a great way to get started in soap making because you won't be working with lye, which can be dangerous. There are two ways you can do this: in a double-boiler on the stove or in a glass container the microwave. Choose the method that works the best for you, then remove the soap from heat. Keep it in the container you melted it in.  Stove: Assemble a double-boiler. turn the heat on to low. Add the soap to the top bowl. Allow the soap to melt most of the way, stirring occasionally. Take the pot off the stove, then let the soap finish melting.  Microwave: heat the soap for 30 seconds. Give it a stir, then heat it for 10 seconds. Stir it once more, then continue heating and stirring at 5 second intervals until the soap has melted. Be sure to scrape the bottom of the pot while you stir. This will help keep things from settling on the bottom. This is not absolutely necessary, but it will help make the soap more nourishing. Stir them in with a spoon until the color of the soap is consistent and no streaks remain. You don't have to add the dye in, but it will help make your soap more pink and reminiscent of calamine lotion. You can also leave out the dye if you prefer. Make sure that you are using soap making dye. Candle dye and fabric dye are not skin safe, and food coloring can stain. Once again, you don't have to do this, but it can make the soap smell nicer. Use a calming fragrance, such as rose or lavender. If this is for a kid, try something associated with the color pink, such as bubblegum or cotton candy.  Make sure that  fragrance oils meant for soap making. The kind used for making candles are not considered to be skin-safe.  You can try using essential oil instead of fragrance oil. Make sure that it is skin-safe as not all essential oils are. You can use a round or square PVC mold. You can also use individual soap molds as well. If you use a round or square mold, you will need to slice the soap into smaller bars after it dries.  For a more unique mold, cut off the bottom 3 inches (7.62 centimeters) of six water bottles, and use that instead.  If the mixture forms bubbles, spray the surface with rubbing alcohol. This will make the bubbles disappear. This will take 30 minutes if you are using several small molds. It may take up to several hours if you are using one big mold. Simply turn the mold over, and pop the soap out. You may have to wiggle the sides to loosen the soap. If you used a large mold, such as a round or square PVC mold, you will need to slice the soap into smaller bars. You should be able to make 3 to 4 bars. Once you pop the soap out of the molds, it is ready to use! If you used plastic water bottles as molds, you'll need to cut the bottles apart with a craft blade, then slide the soap out.

summary: Cut or break apart 12 ounces (340.2 grams) of goats milk melt-and-pour soap base. Melt the soap in a double-boiler or in the microwave. Stir 2 tablespoons of calamine lotion into the melted soap. Break apart 5 vitamin E oil capsules and add them to the soap. Add 2 drops of red soap making dye, if desired. Add 0.25 to 0.5 ounce (7.5 to 14.8 grams) of fragrance oil, if desired. Pour the soap into a soap making mold. Allow the soap to cool and dry. De-mold the soap.


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There are different reading level systems you can choose from, like the DRA leveling system, the Lexile leveling system, and the Scholastic Guided Reading leveling system. Choose a system and stick with it so kids aren't confused when they're looking for a book to read. If you’re using a smartphone app or online database that gives you reading levels for a different system than the one you’re using, convert the levels to your system using a conversion chart at http://teacher.scholastic.com/products/guidedreading/leveling_chart.htm. That way kids can easily tell what reading level the book is when they pick it up. Write the reading level for a book on a label and stick it to the front or back of the book. Or, if you don’t feel like writing out all the labels, use different colored stickers and make a chart that explains what reading level corresponds with each color. Have one bin or shelf be for the easiest reading level, another bin or shelf be for the next reading level up, and so on. This will make it easier for kids to find books that are at their reading level. You can even label the bins or shelves with their corresponding reading level so there’s no confusion.
summary: Stay consistent with the leveling system you use. Label the books in your library with their reading level. Separate the leveled books in bins or on bookshelves.