In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Eating with the fingers is the first way that children learn to feed themselves, and you should watch for signs that you son or daughter is ready to try. This may actually begin well before the toddler period, at around eight or nine months of age. You may notice that your older baby will try to grab food (or other items!), at first with the whole hand and then, later on, with the fingers. These are signs that he or she is ready to start learning to eat independently. The “pincer grasp” (the ability to grab small items with the thumb and forefinger) is especially crucial for effective self-feeding. Most babies develop this skill between about seven and eleven months of age. Start by giving your older baby or younger toddler bite-sized pieces of foods that are easy to chew and swallow. At first, stick to foods that dissolve easily in the mouth; by the toddler years, you can start offering many more foods. Some suggestions include:  low-sugar cereals, especially o-shaped and puffed varieties small pieces of ripe, soft fruits like bananas, mangos, peaches, or watermelon small pieces of soft, cooked vegetables like carrots, peas, or sweet potatoes cubed tofu cooked pasta small pieces of bread, bagels, or English muffins small bites of cheese Mealtimes are a chance to interact and help your child learn, so do not simply place food in front of your toddler and walk away. Sit with your child, talk about the new foods, and hold up individual bites to encourage the pincer grasp. Take your child’s hand in yours and demonstrate. Always supervise your child when he or she is learning to eat finger foods. You can minimize the risk of choking by keeping the bites small (but not so small that he or she might swallow without chewing at all). Babies and toddlers are very messy when they learn to eat. Use bibs, and try to minimize damage by removing rugs or placing a protective cover underneath your child’s high chair. Make sure your child knows that self-feeding is a good thing and that he or she has made you proud.
Summary: Pay attention to your child’s desire to self-feed. Offer your child safe foods to eat with his or her fingers. Practice with your child. Watch for choking. Prepare for a mess. Praise your child’s efforts.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: As described in the section on breeding, pheasants require plenty of space, hidden nooks, and vegetation. Even then, many species are notoriously reluctant to brood. Check daily to see whether any of your hens have become broody. If they have, you can leave the incubation process to the mothers. If the pheasants refuse to brood, you can give the eggs to other poultry species. Because the possible transfer of disease is specific to species and region, speak to a local pheasant breeder or veterinarian before you try this. If the females do not have space to hide from males, the males may become aggressive or destroy the eggs. The risk is greater after the chicks have hatched, so consider moving the males out of the pen once your hens are brooding. Occasionally, a male will help the female brood. If you're a backyard breeder who's not too invested in the outcome, you can try keeping in the rooster for the first season and seeing what happens. Newly hatched chicks cannot fly and may die if the pop hole (the entrance to the roost) is too high to reach. A ramp allows the chick to follow the mother up and down. Sand ramps are best, as solid ramps usually leave crevices that chicks can get lost or stuck in. Also provide ramps between any "steps" in the pen. Chicks easily drown even in small bodies of water. Empty these or surround them with chick-proof barriers. Birds in adjacent pens can catch chicks through the mesh. If two pens share a wall, block the area low to the ground with a solid barrier. Also make sure you are using a mesh fine enough to prevent chicks from walking through the holes.
Summary: Confirm that the pheasants are brooding. Watch for signs of male aggression. Construct sand ramps to roosting areas. Drain bodies of water. Block off walls adjacent to other pens.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Once your cat has linked the clicker and a treat, pick a time when it is attentive but relaxed. Just before you would normally feed your cat is a particularly good time, because the promise of treats to a hungry cat will sharpen its responses. Work in a peaceful place with few distractions so that the cat concentrates solely on you. Press your clicker and give the cat a treat to remind it of the connection between the clicker and the food. Gently lift one of your cat's front paws. It's a good idea to lift the same paw every time. The cat will learn the trick more easily if you are consistent. While holding the paw in your hand, press your clicker with the other hand, and then give your chosen command-word for the trick, such as "shake." Then give the cat a treat. Release the cat's paw and give it a couple of nice pets. This further reinforces that you are pleased with the cat's behavior, and makes the training experience more pleasurable for the cat. Repeat this cycle as many times as the cat is willing during a period of about five minutes.  If the cat spontaneously lifts the correct paw at any time during the training, immediately click, say the command and reward. This sends a strong message that the behavior you require is to lift the paw.  You want your cat to enjoy these sessions. If the cat seems uncooperative or disinterested, don't force this issue. Let it wander off and try again another other time. Later in the day, or the next day, repeat the entire process. Lift the cat's paw if it fails to do so on its own, and also immediately click and offer a treat when the cat does it spontaneously. It may take several sessions before your cat starts to raise its paw without you taking it first, and several more before it will do it on command. When the cat starts to frequently lift its paw on its own, try giving the command "shake" without the click. When it places the paw in your hand, then click and reward. The click promises a reward, and the command tells the cat the required action to get it. Your goal is to get the cat to respond to "shake" without the click because it associates the command with a treat. Eventually, it will become unnecessary to give a reward each time the trick is performed.  However, do reward the cat at least every three to four times so it doesn't get disheartened.  Always conclude each session with a treat. Ending the session with a treat gives the cat consistent, positive reinforcement of the desired behavior.
Summary:
Choose a time and place to train your cat. Click and reward. Take your cat's paw. Click, command, and treat. Release the paw and pet the cat. Repeat the process. Wait, then repeat. Command before the click. Reduce the treats over time.