Article: Drywall comes in a variety of sizes, types and widths. Typically, walls are covered in 1⁄2 or 5⁄8 inch (1.3 or 1.6 cm) thick drywall board bought in 4x8 or 4x12 foot sheets. There are also many different specialty products on the market such as "green board" which is a moisture resistant drywall with a green paper covering, used in damp areas such as bathrooms and kitchens. Ceiling boards called "CV" boards that are more resistant to sagging, and sheets that are larger than standard to cover longer or wider surfaces.  Ceilings and walls are generally faced with 1/2-inch (1.3 cm) drywall sheets. In ceilings you usually use "CV" rated or ceiling boards. There are also lightweight boards available for this purpose. In some instances you may be required to place 5/8-inch (1.6 cm) drywall on your ceilings or outside walls, 5/8-inch (1.6 cm) drywall may be classified as "Fire-rated"  or  TypeX drywall and stands up to fires longer than traditional 1/2-inch (1.3) drywall does.  In some municipalities you can double your drywall in fire risk areas, rather than buy more expensive thicker sheets. The thicker 5/8-inch (1.6 cm) drywall is also useful for sound reduction because of its greater mass. Recording studios sometimes do a double layer of 5/8-inch (1.6 cm) drywall. Drywall should not be used for tub surroundings or showers. The correct material would be cement board with an 6 mil vapor barrier as well as the correct R-value of insulation behind it.  Be sure to use either sheathing tape (Venture, 3M, or Tuck Tape) or acoustic sealant on vapor barrier joints to ensure a proper vapor seal. The seams of the cement board need to be finished with a fiberglass mesh tape which is then covered with a "setting type" joint compound or "thin set" tile adhesive. Check your local planning department and municipal building codes for drywall rules and regulations in your area. Drywall looks thin and light—until you lift it! It's one thing to manage drywall on the ground—moving, cutting, and lifting it. It's quite another to attach a sheet of drywall to the ceiling. A drywall lift can be made using 2 x 4s nailed into a T-shape that is placed under the dry wall to hold it against the ceiling as you place a few screws into the panel to secure it. However, if you are installing drywall on your own, or don't think you have the upper body strength to manipulate the drywall, a lift is well worth considering renting.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Learn about drywall. Know where drywall doesn't belong. Handle drywall correctly.
Article: Removing all the paint and rust from a fence is a dirty job. Keep your property clean by laying out a sheet or drop cloth to catch falling debris. Cover your grass, porch, sidewalk, and any other areas that might get dirty during the job.  Try to avoid doing this job in windy weather to reduce the mess. Scraping, sanding, and priming is a long process. Start early in the morning and plan on working all day. The process may take into a second day, depending on how large the fence is. Paint and rust shards can irritate your skin, throat, and eyes. Protect yourself with the proper equipment before starting. Cover your eyes with goggles and put on a dust mask. Wear gloves to prevent cuts and irritation.  Also cover all of your exposed skin with long sleeves and pants to prevent irritations from paint shards. All the necessary protective gear is available at hardware stores or online. If you order from the internet, make sure you can return the items if they don't fit. Any leftover paint or rust on the iron will prevent a new coat of paint from sticking properly. Take a metal scraper and rub all the flat sections of the fence. Scrape back and forth until the paint and rust comes off.  Don’t miss any spots. Scrub all the spots you can reach with the scraper before moving on. This step only removes flaking rust and metal, it doesn’t smooth out the iron surface. Don’t worry if the iron is still rough after scraping it. Many fences have designs and a flat metal scraper won’t be able to reach into rounded or curved areas like these. Take a wire brush and scrub all the areas you couldn’t reach with the scraper. Rub back and forth to flake off any paint and rust.  Don’t miss any spots. Any paint or rust you leave behind will damage your new coat of paint. Be thorough and reach every spot with the brush. If there are still tough rust spots that won’t come off, try using a powered grinder to remove them. This uses a spinning stone to grind away rust. Wear gloves and goggles if you use this tool, and hold it against any rusty spots until they're smooth. You can buy or rent a powered grinder from a hardware store. Sanding smooths the iron out in preparation for a fresh coat of paint. Use a 150-grit paper or sanding sponge and sand the whole surface. Use a steady, back and forth motion to grind down and rough spots.  Remember to get into any grooves and curved areas. Don’t miss any spots. Don’t remove your protective gear when you sand. The dust can still irritate your eyes and skin. Sanding is a time-consuming process. Be patient and don’t rush. Pour mineral spirits into a rag and rub it over the whole fence. Don’t worry about scrubbing hard. The rag should pick up any residue. Re-wet the rag if you have to, especially if you’re working on a large piece of iron.  Mineral spirits are a relatively safe solvent, but they can still irritate your skin. Wear gloves and if you get any on your skin, flush the area under running water for 5 minutes.  Mineral spirits are available at most hardware stores. Don’t clean the iron with water. This will cause rust.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Spread a sheet or drop cloth around the fence. Put on gloves, a dust mask, and goggles. Scrape flat surfaces with a metal scraper to remove paint and rust. Rub curved areas with a wire brush. Sand the fence with 150-grit sandpaper. Rub the fence with mineral spirits to remove any remaining dust.
Article: Because the pedals are always moving on a fixed gear, turning can feel very different than when riding freewheel bike. Don't take corners too tightly or your pedals may end up scraping against the ground or you might topple over. Slow down significantly when going around corners and take them wider than you normally would on a freewheel bike. Purchase bike safety gear at a bike store, department store, or online. A helmet will protect your head if you fall off of the bike. If you are just learning how to ride a bike, you should also consider wearing additional protective gear like knee pads, elbow pads, and a mouthguard.  Make sure that the helmet fits snugly, but is not too tight on your head. Ensure that your bike has reflectors if you plan on riding it when it gets dark out. Many areas require you to have a front light and rear reflector while riding at night. Even if you have experience riding a freewheel bike, riding a fixed gear feels completely different. For that reason, you should practice riding it in an area that's free of obstacles until you're confident enough to ride it in other places.\ If you notice that the bike chain is drooping or loose, it could make it harder to ride the bike and could damage the chain. You can tighten the chain by unscrewing and repositioning the rear wheel further back. Check your bike chain periodically to make sure that it's tight. Professionals at the bike shop will also be able to replace or tighten your chain.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Take wider corners when turning. Wear a helmet and safety gear. Practice in an empty area when starting out. Keep the bike chain tight.