In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: You will rarely have to cut the tape off, and you should be careful not to nick the actual handlebar if you do. More often than not, you can simply unwind the old tape off the bike. Remove the cap at the end of the handlebars, using a flat-head screwdriver if needed. Before removing, note how far up the bars the old tape went. This is a good guide for when to end your own tape-up. Use a gentle degreaser, or some simply warm water and dish soap, to lightly remove the rest of the adhesive. Take some electrical tape and wrap any cables lightly to the bars, if they are not already pre-attached. Note where you want the tape to end, and get your knife or scissors ready to cut the excess tape when you're finished. Feeling extra pro -- wrap some double-sided tape around the bottom 2-3 inches of the bar to help keep your tape in place. Handlebars need to be wrapped in a way that prevents unwinding while you ride. Starting from the bottom prevents the wrap from sliding down under your hands. Furthermore, wrapping in the right direction for each hand prevents you from unwrapping as you ride (many people, when tired, clench their hands and twist them outwards). Pull the tape tight -- you want a lot of tension for a tight, waterproof grip. Move up the bar, overlapping slightly for 3-4 wraps. Then push the cap into the exposed wrap, sucking it into the inside of the handlebar so that the cap holds the bottom of the tape in place. Repeat on both sides. If there is adhesive in tape, it is often covered. Pull off the covering now and slowly, tightly wrap the tape up and around the bar. You may have to pull and work the tape multiple times, making sure there are no gaps.  It is often best to test the tension of the tape before starting. Give a good tug to feel how tightly you can pull on the tape without ripping it. To avoid gaps where the bar bends, you may have to overlap a bit more. The top of the handlebars, the flat part, need to be wrapped in reverse. As you finish the bottom of the bars, get as close to the levers as you can. Then skip over a small area where the bars bend and just start wrapping the top of the bars. This will be easy if you skip past the lever covering, as outlined above. Most riders will rotate their wrists back on the top bar, potentially unraveling the tape. This is why you change directions when getting to the top bar:  The right side should be wrapped counter-clockwise. The left side should be wrapped clockwise. You can "overwrap" it, then use a pen to mark the points you want to cut it. Then simply follow this line with scissors for a clean, professional tape-up. At the very end of the tape, use some "finishing tape," to secure the wrap in place. Add enough that it cannot be easily unwound, usually using 1-2" on the tape and 1-2" on the bike frame. For a better hold, use a lit match to melt the tapes together in a few places, "welding" your handlebar tape on.
Summary: Cut or unwind the old handlebar tape. Wash off any lumps of adhesive left by the old tape. Set up your workstation and prepare the bars for taping. Start each handlebar from the bottom, wrapping clockwise on the right and counter-clockwise on the left. Leave about half the tape hanging off the bottom of the bar on the first pass, wrapping 3-4 times as you work up. Work slowly, overlapping about a quarter of the tape with every turn, as you move up the bar. Lift the lever body (rubber covering at brakes/shifters) and wrap past this point to get to the top of the bars. Reverse your wrapping direction for the top of the bars. Cut the tape at your desired length and finish wrapping. Add some 2-3 wraps of electrical tape to hold the wrap in place.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: These devices modify the programming on your vehicle's computer, called "reflashing," to allow for more horsepower, torque, and sometimes better fuel economy. On a naturally-aspirated engine, the horsepower increase will be quite minor, but with a supercharger you can see huge gains in HP. Some auto shops will advertise flashing options, saving you lots of money in the process. In practical terms, it's not something people often do themselves, so you might talk with a mechanic you trust about it if you're interested. Aftermarket power modules can be used in a similar way, sometimes offering up to 30 extra HP with proper installation.  To install, look in the driver's manual, a Chilton or a Haynes guide to see how to access the car's computer, then disconnect negative battery cable and unplug the wiring harness from the computer. Plug in an aftermarket power module. Insert it between the wiring harness and the computer. Reconnect negative battery cable. On the upside, re-flashing the computer in your car can be a great and efficient way of upping the horsepower, giving you a powerful ride. On the downside, it's an expensive process that requires you already have a supercharged engine — another expensive process. Many performance modifications to an engine can also decrease its fuel economy, and reflashing also generally voids any warranty on a vehicle you've purchased. Know that if you choose to complete the process, it's on you.
Summary: Enhance a turbocharged engine with a programmer. Enhance supercharged engine's computer with a power module. Weigh the pros and cons.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: This symptom will start killing off the hosts, but not too quickly as to end your game. it will also boost your infectivity. This will drop the progress of the cure back a few percentage points. The cure will move quickly towards the end, so you'll want to set it back if it reaches 25% or so before you move on to the final few steps. If you are running low on DNA points, you can skip Genetic Reshuffle 2. You should never need Genetic Shuffle 3. If you haven't yet, you'll want to wait until every country is infected before you turn your disease into a killing machine. When the last country is infected, wait until it has about 10,000-15,000 people infected before moving on. Make sure your last infected country already has 10,000-15,000 people infected before you evolve this symptom. This is going to start killing people off very quickly. This will help ensure that the disease continues to spread as it is killing people. You'll need to have either Diarrhea or Insanity in order to get Dysentery. This symptom will increase the lethality of your disease as you rush towards the end. If you were successful, the entire world should be infected shortly, with death catching up soon after. You can speed things up by getting more symptoms, or evolve Genetic Reshuffle to slow the cure if necessary.
Summary:
Evolve the Necrosis symptom. Evolve the Genetic Reshuffle ability. Evolve Genetic Reshuffle 2 when the cure reaches 25%. Wait for all countries to be infected. Evolve Total Organ Failure. Evolve Dysentery. Evolve Hemorrhagic  Shock. Wait while the world finishes getting infected and killed off.