Determine the size of the carpet to be cut out, and whether you want to cut a rectangular or circular replacement patch to fill the area in. Rectangular patches can be cut using a utility knife, while circular patches can be cut using a circular carpet cutter. Use a utility knife or a carpet cutting tool to gently cut away the carpet. Apply just enough pressure to cut through both the surface of the carpet and the backing, but not enough to damage the underlying layer of padding. Once the section is completely cut, lift it off the carpet surface.  You may want to save the damaged section in case you need to patch a smaller area that can be cut from this section. Turn a carpet remnant face down and measure a patch for the carpeting, using the measurements obtained earlier as a guideline. Or remove a piece of carpeting from an inconspicuous area, such as the inside of a closet. Mark the lines of the patch with the pencil, and then use a utility knife or carpet cutter to cut out the patch. Carpet patch pads are used to iron on specially made adhesive disks that activate with the help of heat. Your carpet patch pad may be aluminum-sided on the top and contain a previous material on the bottom. Wet your carpet patch pad under water and wring out the excess; the pad should be damp but not dripping. Make sure the adhesive pad is adequately bigger than the patch, specially made for heat-application, and centered for even distribution. Smooth out any wrinkles if necessary Go over the patch with a carpet brush to remove loose fibers. Make sure that the direction of the fibers on the patch matches the direction of the fibers on the carpet. Make sure the patch pad is centered and you know where the patch is underneath. Press down on the iron so that the heat transfers from the patch pad, through the carpet, to the adhesive pad underneath. Remember that the adhesive pad activates when subjected to heat.  You should hear a light sizzle when you touch the iron onto the patch pad. This is the water reacting to the heat, not the carpet burning. If the patch is big, go over different spots the patch with the iron — enough to cover the entire patch. You don't want to fail to activate the head beneath the patch. The glue on the adhesive pad won't fully dry until the carpet is cool. Go over the patch with a carpet brush and remove any loose fibers from the edge of the carpet.

Summary: Measure the damaged area of the carpeting. Remove the damaged section of carpeting. Measure and cut the replacement patch. Wet the carpet patch pad. Slide the adhesive pad underneath the cut-out carpet, centering it. Place the replacement patch onto the adhesive disk. Place the patch pad on top of the patch, aluminum side up. Using an iron set on high, heat the patch pad up for one minute. Remove the iron and patch pad let the area cool.


Whisk the ingredients together in a large bowl. Remove as many lumps as you can, as the liquid soap will likely cause clumps to form in the powder. Soaps you can use for this recipe include liquid castile soap and a mild liquid dish soap. Transfer 4 cups (940 ml) of water to a saucepan and heat it over medium-high heat. Bring the water to a boil, and then turn off the heat and remove the pan from the element. You can also boil the water in a kettle. When the water has boiled, pour it into the bowl with the other detergent ingredients. Whisk the mixture to combine all the ingredients and dissolve the powders in the hot water. Set the mixture aside to cool to room temperature for about 30 minutes. When the mixture has cooled, pour it into a clean 1-gallon (3.8-L) juice jug or other similar container. Then, fill the jug the rest of the way with cold water, which will require an additional 10 cups (2.35 L) or so. Some of the ingredients will settle to the bottom of the mixture over time, so make sure you give the jug a good shake before adding the liquid to the washing machine. For each load of laundry, use ⅓ cup (78 ml) of this liquid soap.

Summary: Combine the borax, washing soda, and liquid soap. Boil the water. Add the water to the other ingredients. Transfer the soap to a large container and add cold water. Shake before each use.


This technique works great with rough or reclaimed wood. The finished product will look rustic, and will look like the wood of a barn.  Because this technique is designed to create a rustic look, you almost never have to sand. The roughness of the wood actually adds to the final, barn-like, product. The wood does not need to be perfectly clean, but if it’s very dirty, wash it with soapy water. Let it dry completely before you begin painting. It is best to pour the paint on the center of the wood. Start with a small amount, and add more if necessary.  You can use any type of paint with this technique, although most people find latex paint the easiest to work with. Add water if the paint is too thick. Adding water will also make it easier to drag the paint across the wood. Spread the paint across the wood, into the grain, and let it soak into the grooves. If you want a light coat of paint, you can spread the paint out thinly. For more coverage, don’t spread the paint as widely. Repeat this step to fill in blank areas. Let the piece sit overnight, and then check it. The paint may take longer to dry in areas where you applied thick layers of paint. Make sure it is completely dry, and not tacky to the touch, before you move the wood. If you want the wood to have more coverage, or a brighter finish, add more paint and scrape it across the wood. Add as many layers as you like, but remember that the more paint you apply, the less the wood will show through.
Summary: Use the paint and drag technique to create a rustic look. Pour a small amount of paint directly onto the wood. Use a wide putty knife, or scraper to drag the paint across the wood. Let the wood dry for at least 12 hours. Repeat as necessary.