Use an electric centrifugal juicer with a chute and a spout. A hand juicer, or a juicer that requires you to press the fruit or vegetable against a bump to extract the juice, only works with soft fruits like lemons, oranges, and limes. To extract juice from hard vegetables like onions, you need a juicer with a spout that you can feed pieces of the vegetable into.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary -- Choose the right type of juicer.

Q: Surround the asters with 2 inches (5 cm) of mulch immediately after planting and every spring.  Before adding new mulch in the spring, remove any old mulch. Mulch keeps the soil cool in the summer and warm in the winter. It also helps to limit and prevent weed growth. Monitor the amount of rain you get each week during the growing season. If you get less than 1 inch (2.5 cm) of rain during one week, you should soak the soil of the planting site.  Asters are sensitive to moisture and will usually become visibly weakened if they receive too much or too little moisture. Plants that receive too little water will usually lose flowers and leaves. Plants that receive too much water may start to yellow and wither. At minimum, you should mix a thin layer of compost into the soil each spring before new growth starts to form. For even better results, mix a balanced, general purpose fertilizer into the soil once a month. Apply the fertilizer as directed on the package label. You'll need to do some light pruning in the spring and some heavy pruning in the fall.  Pinch young shoots in the spring to redirect growth outward. Doing so will create a bushier plant. Cut the entire aster plant back once the foliage dies in the winter. Cut down stem portions that appear sickly or scraggly, or trim the stems back completely to 1 or 2 inches (2.5 or 5 cm) above the soil line. Most aster varieties can withstand either option. Cutting the plant down can improve its long-term growth habit, but doing so will also delay flowering by several weeks. If you live in a colder climate (USDA hardiness zones 5 and below), you may want to wait until spring before doing major pruning. Leaving the plants intact over harsh winters can improve their odds of survival.  You can also remove dead flower blooms on an ongoing basis to improve the overall appearance of the plant, but doing so is not necessary for the health of the plant. If you do deadhead old blooms, do so carefully since new buds tend to be located nearby. . Many asters can grow without staking, but if you have a larger variety that begins drooping, install a stake and train the foliage upright.  The stake you choose should be about 12 inches (30 cm) taller than the current height of the plant. Hammer the stake into the ground roughly 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.6 cm) away from the main stem of the plant. Use wool yarn or nylon stockings to gently tie the branches of the plant along the height of the stake. Dividing the plant as it gradually becomes fuller will allow it to distribute its resources more effectively. As a result, the plant will remain vigorous and the flowers will remain plentiful.  Wait until spring before dividing plants. Carefully dig out half to two thirds of the established plant. Leave the remainder in its current location.  Divide the portion you dug out into two or more sections. Each clump you divide off should have three to five shoots. These divided portions can be planted in another area of your garden or a friend's garden. Treat these divided portions as new seedlings and transplant them accordingly. Asters don't often have difficulties with pests and diseases, but some varieties can fall victim to powdery mildew, rusts, white smut, leaf spots, stem cankers, aphids, tarsfonemid mites, slugs, nails, and nematodes.  Prevention is better than treatment. Your best option is to choose disease-resistant aster varieties for your garden. When problems do arise, treat them with an appropriate pesticide or fungicide.
A: Cover the area with mulch. Water as needed. Enrich the soil with an appropriate fertilizer. Prune twice a year. Stake tall varieties Divide the plants every two to four years. Watch out for pests and disease.

Article: Once a flower on this plant loses its colorful lustre and the petals begin to dry and wilt, the flower will quickly shrivel up and die. At this point, you can use pruning shears to cut off the spent flower and its stem (called “deadheading”).  Trace down the spent flower’s stem until you reach the next lateral stem with a blooming flower or bud on it. Cut the dead flower’s stem just above this joint. The best time of year for deadheading will vary based on the coneflower blooming season where you live. That said, you should plan to start deadheading about 2 weeks after the first blooms appear, and continue throughout the blooming season. Once a flower fades, the coneflower plant expends energy producing seeds that will eventually fall from the spent flower and sprout new coneflowers in the same area. Deadheading reduces the energy spent on seed production, which may result in more blooms that are longer-lasting and more vibrant.  Deadheading also greatly reduces the number of seeds that fall to the ground, which can help you keep your coneflowers from claiming more garden territory. Many gardeners also believe that deadheading simply makes the plant look prettier as well. If you want the coneflower section of your garden to spread naturally, skip deadheading and let the seeds fall where they may. Each year, the area covered by coneflowers will grow a bit larger.  In fact, after 3-4 years, you may be ready to divide up your intertwined coneflower plants and replant some of them elsewhere. Finches and many other types of birds love coneflower seeds, so don’t deadhead if you want lots of feathered friends to visit your garden!
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Cut fading flowers and their stems down to the next lateral flower or bud. Deadhead to encourage more blooms or to limit self-seeding. Don’t deadhead if you want to encourage more coneflowers or invite birds.