Q: Get a fish tank water-testing kit from the pet store, which should include testing equipment for reading ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH levels. Several natural processes that occur in your tank can be kept in check by setting up your tank properly, but certain parameters still need to be tested for every week. Ammonia is a natural byproduct of the food your goldfish doesn’t eat, as well as the goldfish’s waste.  Bacteria will eat the ammonia in your tank, but if the bacteria die or something else goes wrong, high ammonia levels can become extremely dangerous.  If you’re getting positive ammonia readings, change the tank’s water immediately. Determine whether overfeeding, an insufficient filtering system, or overcrowding and remedy the issue as soon as possible. Nitrites are usually converted by your water filter into nitrates, but can make your goldfish unhealthy if not kept in check.  During cycling, nitrite levels may reach 0.75ppm, but should never exceed this amount. Keep nitrate levels between 5 and 20ppm.  Change the tanks water if nitrites are present.  Their presence indicates ammonia levels are likely also too high, or your filtration system needs to be adjusted. Nitrate, which is safe at low levels, can also be harmful at higher levels and can lead to unwanted algae in the tank. A partial water change should be sufficient to reduce nitrate levels. Water that is too acidic will allow ammonia levels to increase very quickly.  Water that is too alkaline (or basic) actually makes natural levels of ammonia more harmful.  Shoot for the ideal levels of pH for goldfish, which are between 7.2 and 7.6 pH. If you need to adjust pH, do so minimally by adding pH decreaser or alkaline buffers that are designed for this purpose, and are available online or in pet stores. Use water generated by reverse osmosis if you are unable to change the pH of the water you're using.  You may be unable to adjust the pH of certain municipal water supplies because of specific mineral content in the water.
A: Test your goldfish’s water weekly. Keep ammonia levels at 0ppm. Maintain nitrite levels at 0ppm and nitrate levels below 40ppm. Ensure a pH-balanced tank.

Q: There are 5 different light codes displayed around the Power button on the Xbox 360. Each of the codes represents a different failure state.  Green lights. Green lights indicate that the console is powered and operating correctly. The number of green lights indicates how many controllers are connected. One red light. This is the Hardware Failure indicator. It is usually accompanied by an “E74” or similar code displayed on the TV. This is caused by the video scalar chip being damaged. Two red lights. This is an overheating error. If the console becomes too hot, the system will shut down and display this light code. The fans will continue running until the components have been cooled. Three red lights. This is the General Hardware Failure, also known as the Red Ring of Death. This indicates that one or more components have failed, and that the system is no longer operable. No error code will be displayed on the TV. Four red lights. This indicates that the AV cable is not correctly plugged in. Check the connection from the console to the TV. This code will not display for HDMI connections. While there is no easy quick fix, repair kits can be found for way less than the price of a new game. These kits typically come packaged with an Xbox 360 opening tool, new thermal paste, new heat sinks, and new washers. Some will include all of the screwdrivers you will need as well. Performing this fix yourself can be difficult, but can fix most Red Ring of Death cases. An Xbox opening tool will make this process much easier, and this tool is typically included in most repair kits. The opening process is the most difficult part of the repair process, if you don't have the Xbox opening tool.. Disconnect the cables from the back of the DVD drive. Once the cables are disconnected, pull the DVD drive up and out. Pull the plastic shroud off by pressing in the sides and pulling it. Disconnect the fan cable from the motherboard. Pull the cooling fans out of the case. Pry off the plastic cover from the front circuit board. Remove the three screws that connect the board to the case. You will need a T6 screwdriver. Once the case has been completely opened, you can slide the motherboard directly out of the case. Place it on a protected surface to prevent damage or static shock. You can pry the clamps off their posts with a small flathead screwdriver. Go slowly to avoid damaging the motherboard with the screwdriver. Once the clamps have been removed, lift the heat sinks directly off of the board. You may have to apply a little force to pull the heatsinks off of the thermal paste. You may need to use acetone or nail polish to completely remove the old thermal paste. You don’t need to apply very much thermal paste. If the paste oozes out when you put the new heat sink on, then you have too much. Remove the heat sink again and clean the excess thermal paste. Replace these with the replacement pads from our fix-it kit. These will apply more pressure to the board, keeping the RAM from becoming unseated. Make sure that everything is properly screwed back in. Plug your Xbox in and attempt to power it on.
A: Check your light code. Purchase a fix-it kit online. Open the 360. Take out the DVD drive. Remove the cooling fans. Disconnect the power board. Extract the motherboard from the case. Pry the clamps off the back of the motherboard. Remove the heat sinks from the CPU and GPU. Scrape off the old thermal paste and apply a new layer. Remove the squishy thermal pads. Reassemble the Xbox.

Q: Seed potatoes are crops that grow root sprouts. These sprouts poke out of the spud and grow shoots. Seed potatoes can grow several of these sprouts per potato. Use small to medium-sized seed potatoes for best results.  You can select seed potatoes in a variety of types, such as Yukon, Ida Rose, and French Fingerling, for example. Make sure to use seed potatoes, not potato seeds. Potato seeds will produce plants with different characteristics than the parent plant so you may not get the desired results. A kitchen table near a window works well, but you can use any sunny space with a flat surface. Leave your potatoes in the sun until you see sturdy, green shoots. Your potatoes will grow healthy and quickly if they are kept in moderate lighting at about 60–70 °F (16–21 °C). If you want to slow down the growth of your potatoes, place them in a colder spot away from the sun. Your seed potatoes are ready to go in the dirt when they grow about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. You will see the shoots growing upwards from the potato sprouts. If you want to grow more potatoes, use a whole seed potato with at least 4-5 sprouts. If you want to grow large-sized potatoes, cut your seed potatoes into chunks with at least 1-2 sprouts on each. Each potato will have a different number of sprouts.  Full seed potatoes will grow smaller potatoes, though you will have a greater potato yield. Chunks of seed potatoes will grow large potatoes, but you will have a smaller yield.
A:
Purchase at least 4 seed potatoes from a nursery early in the year. Put your egg cartons on a flat surface in a warm area for 2-3 weeks. Plant your potatoes when the sprouts are 1⁄2–1 in (1.3–2.5 cm) long.