This is where the footing, or foundation, of your column will be. It's important that you build the footing down into the ground as opposed to on the surface so that your column is stable. The depth and dimensions of the hole will depend on several factors, like the size of your column, how much weight it will support, and the kind of ground you're building on. If you're not sure, do some research online or consult with a professional mason.  As a rule of thumb, the hole should be at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep. Make sure the hole is at least 4 inches (10 cm) longer and wider than your column will be so you have enough room to build the footing. Verify that the bottom of the hole you dug is level before you proceed. If it's not level, your brick column won't be either, so you'll want to level it first. Cut a wooden plank or stud into 4 pieces—1 piece for each side of the frame—and nail them together to make a square frame. Then, place the frame in the hole you dug so it's laying flat on the bottom of the hole. Since you'll be using the empty inside of the frame to make your footing, make sure the frame is 4 inches (10 cm) longer and wider than your column will be when measured from the inside edges of the wood and not the outside edges. For example, if you want to build a concrete column that's 24 by 24 inches (61 cm × 61 cm), you'd want to make a frame that's 28 by 28 inches (71 cm × 71 cm) when measured from the inside edges of the frame. and let it dry completely. Once you've poured the concrete, take a piece of wood and drag it across the surface of the frame to scrape off any excess concrete and smooth out the surface so it's level for your column. Then, wait for the concrete to dry.  How long it takes for the concrete to dry will depend on the type of concrete you use. Some concrete can take weeks to fully cure, while others are designed to dry in a few hours. If you want to speed up your project, try using a fast-setting concrete mix so you can pour the concrete and start working on your column all on the same day.  Alternatively if the column isn't load-bearing or very tall, you can later bricks and more in an area 18 inches (46 cm) deep and 4 inches (10 cm) wider than the column. Dry-laying your bricks is just arranging them on the footing in the pattern you'll be using without actually securing them to the footing with mortar. Simply take all the bricks you'll use for the first course (the first layer of your column) and lay them on top of the footing so the ends are touching and they form a square or rectangle. Don't put a brick in the center of the course since the center of your brick column will be hollow. Also, leave a 3⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) space between each neighboring brick so you can connect them with mortar later on.  When the bricks are centered on the footing, there should be 4 inches (10 cm) of footing extending off of each side. Use a pencil to trace all around the outer edge of the course and then along the inner edge of the course so you're left with 2 rectangles or squares, 1 inside of the other. This will give you an outline to use when you spread the first layer of mortar on the footing. When you reach a gap between the bricks, just draw a straight line across the gap to the next brick as if the gap wasn't there.

Summary: Dig a square, level hole where you want your brick column to go. Make a frame that's 4 inches (10 cm) longer and wider than the column will be. Fill the frame with concrete Remove the wooden frame and dry-lay the first course of bricks you'll be using. Trace the outer and inner edges of the course, then remove the bricks.


Before you get started, make sure the wall you're finishing has already been taped and sanded, and any seams have been touched up with a base coat. That way, all you'll have to worry about is spreading the plaster, which will require your full attention.  Plaster is best applied to wood or metal lath, or bare walls stripped of paint and wallpaper. If the wall has semi-gloss or gloss paint on it, you should prime it before adding plaster.  Use plastic sheeting and painter's tape to cover areas you don't want plastered. Working with plaster can get pretty messy. To safeguard your surroundings and avoid an extensive cleanup process later on, it's a good idea to lay down a drop cloth or tarp. Make sure you have all the tools and equipment you need on hand to avoid wasting valuable time searching later on.  Consider putting on a change of old clothes that you don't mind getting dirty. It can also help to wear a respirator and eye protection, if you're sensitive to dust. It's best to mix plaster outdoors to minimize cleaning up the splatter from the mixing paddle. The exact size of the bucket you'll need will depend on the amount of plaster you're preparing. In most cases, however, a 5 or 7 gallon (18.9 or 26.5 L) bucket will be ideal. If you're using a smaller bucket, you may have to work in batches.  Keep in mind that plaster expands, so it's better to have a couple more gallons (around 7 L) worth of room than you need just to be on the safe side.  Hose out the bucket to flush away sediment and other residue if you've previously used it for other projects. Add 1–2 gallons (3.8–7.6 L) (3.8-7.6L) of room-temperature water. It's essential that you add the plaster to the water, not the other way around. This will help prevent troublesome lumps and give you more control over how thick the mixture turns out. If the water is too cold, it can make the plaster harder to mix. If it's too warm, it may cause it to set prematurely. Scoop out a small amount of plaster from the bag using a plastic cup and dump it in the bucket. Generally, you'll want to use approximately a 1:1 ratio of plaster to water—in other words, half and half. However, you should add only about half of the plaster at this point as more will be added later.  Try not to take more than a couple minutes to sift the plaster, or it will begin to set.  The plaster will need to soak for 2-3 minutes before you begin mixing.

Summary: Prepare the wall for plastering. Protect your work area. Set a large bucket outdoors to do your mixing in. Fill the bucket with clean water. Add plaster to the water gradually.


You'll need light brown cream eyeliner (a few shades darker than your natural skintone), a blush brush or beauty blender, and a cotton ball. Do not use liquid eyeliner; it smudges easily and looks less natural.

Summary: Collect your materials.


This means getting the entire school -- teachers, administrators, and the students -- to agree to make your school a bully-free zone. Even those indirectly involved in the school, such as bus drivers, need to support and receive training on anti-bullying measures. It takes more than an assembly or a bunch of signs pronouncing a bully-free zone to truly create a bully-free environment for students.  Change how kids think about other kids. For example, creating an anti-bullying program may involve creating lesson plans whereby children learn more about other kids, especially those who come from different backgrounds, ethnicities, and cultures, or different learning styles or abilities. Or, teachers might teach cooperation by assigning group projects, which help students learn how to compromise and assert themselves without being too demanding.  Rules about bullying and its consequences should be discussed and posted publicly in the school, sent home to parents, and put in community newspapers to create a universal awareness of the issue. This will begin the process of large-scale transformation. Most bullying in schools occurs in areas that have less supervision by adults, like school buses, cafeterias, restrooms, hallways, and locker rooms.  Schools need to address these areas by enhancing the monitoring of these spaces by additional adults or using enhanced security techniques including closed circuit cameras.  Schools can also establish anonymous reporting tools like suggestion boxes or hotlines where students can send text messages or leave voicemails.
Summary: Get everyone on board. Put words into action. Create greater surveillance.