Summarize the following:
Loosen the strings as much as you can by rotating the tuning keys at the end of the neck. Once the strings have some slack, use a string cutter to cut it into 2 pieces to make it easier to remove. Pull out the bridge pin, which is the small ball shape at the end of your strings, to remove one half of the string, and pull the other end out from the tuning keys on the end of the neck. Be careful that the strings don’t scratch the body of your guitar since the cut ends may be sharp. Grip the metal fret bars as close to the guitar’s neck as you can with a fret puller. Squeeze the handles of the fret puller together to latch onto the fret bar, and slowly pull it off of the neck. If the fret doesn’t come off when you pull it, let go of the fret and place the fret pullers in a different section of the fret bar. Keep loosening the fret until it comes off easily. Continue working up from the bottom of the neck until you’ve removed the bottom 6-7 frets.  You can buy a fret puller from music stores or online. If you don’t have a fret puller, you can also use a pair of cutting pliers with a flush edge. The fretboard that extends onto the body of your guitar is held in place by glue that softens when you heat it. Turn on a clothes steamer so you can apply hot steam to the area where you removed the frets. Hold the steamer over the section of fretboard and wiggle the neck up and down to loosen the glue. After a few minutes, the fretboard should easily lift off of the guitar.  You can buy a steamer from any home goods store or online. If you don’t have a steamer, you can also an iron on a low heat setting, but you may damage the guitar’s body if you aren’t careful. Wipe off any excess steam on your guitar’s body or else it could cause permanent damage or warping. Carefully push the end of a flexible scraper under the section of fretboard you just heated. Start at the end of the fretboard and work your way up toward where the neck meets the body of the guitar. As long as the glue is soft, the fretboard will lift easily without causing any damage to the instrument.  If the fretboard doesn’t come off easily, try heating it for another 5 minutes to loosen the glue again. Don’t try to pull off the neck entirely at this point since it’s still attached with bolts. Guide your hand and a screwdriver into the hole in the middle of your guitar. Feel around the inside of the guitar to find the 1 or 2 bolts holding the neck in place. Use your screwdriver to loosen the bolts and remove them so the neck comes loose from the body. Once you remove the screws, lift the neck out from the guitar’s body to remove it. Make sure you get a new guitar neck that’s compatible with your type of guitar, or else it will not fit. Position the end of the guitar neck over the pocket and slowly push it down. Position the guitar neck so it sits flat against the top of the body and so the fretboard lays flush. Mark the position of the neck on the body with a pencil so you know how to position it.  You can buy new guitar necks directly from the guitar manufacturer online, or you can buy custom-made necks as long as they match the style of guitar you have. Do not force the end of the neck horizontally into the pocket since you may damage the body. Your new guitar neck will have a section of fretboard that extends past the end that sits against the front of the guitar. Put a coin-sized dot of wood glue on the fretboard that extends past the base of the neck and spread it around with a paintbrush or your finger. Make sure there are no large globs of glue since it may not set as well and will take longer to dry. Once you have a thin, even layer of glue on the back of the fretboard, you can move on. Position the new neck over the pocket on the guitar’s body and push it into place so it lines up with your marks. Press down on the fretboard you applied glue to so it has solid contact with the front of the guitar’s body, and wipe off any excess that comes out from the sides. Hold the neck in place and reattach the bolts inside the guitar by hand. Tighten the bolts with your screwdriver to secure it in place. Don’t use too much force while tightening your bolts since you could damage the guitar’s body. Attach a C-clamp to the section of fretboard you glued and secure it to the body of the guitar so it doesn’t move or shift while it’s drying. Wait at least 24 hours for the wood glue to set before removing the clamp so the neck is secured to the guitar’s body. After the glue has set, you can restring your guitar.

summary: Remove the strings from your guitar. Take off the bottom 6-7 frets from the fretboard. Heat the fretboard extension with a steamer to soften the glue. Slide a flat scraper under the fretboard extension to loosen it from the body. Reach inside the guitar to undo the bolts and slide the neck out. Dry-fit your new neck on the guitar to make sure it sits flush. Apply wood glue to the back of the fretboard that extends from the neck. Push the new neck into place and secure the bolts. Clamp the neck to the guitar body so it can dry.


Summarize the following:
Turn it to the desired page. Make the page as flat as you safely can get it. Avoid cracking the spine. Make sure the page is at least as thick as the pages at the beginning and end of a typical library book. You can use this method on white or colored paper. You could also do this on the inside cover of the book.  For extra protection, it might help to place several sheets of scrap paper under the page you’re working on. If the page is thin like computer paper or notebook paper, use an eraser or sandpaper instead. You can find these in specialty craft stores or online. Look for a blade that’s completely flat on one side with a deep bevel on the other. This will remove the ink stamp while protecting the page from damage. Don’t use an X-Acto knife or butter knife. It will remove the stamp, but it will also damage the page. Position it the same way you would hold a pen or pencil. Place your grip towards the bottom of the blade. You can position the blade vertically, horizontally, or at an angle. Start with a letter or small design element in the stamp. Gently follow the shape of the letter or element as you scratch. Move in a back-and-forth motion with the tip of the blade. Be patient. This method can be time-consuming, but you will get professional results. For example, if you’re removing a capital L, move the blade vertically on the long stem and horizontally on the shorter stem. As the letters or lines begin to lighten, try to erase them. Erase gently. Move in a regular motion as if you were erasing pencil marks. This will prevent damage that could come from additional scratching. Continue the process. Keep scratching out individual letters or design elements with the knife. As they lighten, you can use the eraser to remove what remains. When all marks are gone, touch up the formerly stamped area with the eraser. Use quick, yet gentle, strokes. Brush away any residual debris with the back of your hand.
summary: Open your book. Check the thickness of the paper. Get a book repair knife. Hold the knife in your dominant hand. Begin scratching. Use an eraser to remove remnants of the ink. Touch up the area.