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Fill the bottle slowly, so that the soap doesn’t bubble up and run over the top. It's best to use lukewarm distilled water rather than tap water, since your tap water may contain minerals and other impurities.  You can find various brands of dishwashing detergents at your local grocery store or pharmacy. Before applying dishwashing soap to your plasma screen, read your TV’s warranty. Make sure that it won’t be voided if you clean the screen with soap. Aim the liquid spray away from your TV so you don’t risk spraying the soap solution directly onto your plasma screen. Then, squeeze the trigger 2-3 times to lightly dampen your microfiber cloth. If you spray too much liquid into the cloth, you can wring it out over a sink to remove excess moisture. Put your index finger in the cloth under the damp region. Press your finger lightly against the spot on your screen. Move your finger in a circular motion to wipe the dishwashing soap solution onto the stubborn stain. After a few wipes, the stain should come off.  If the screen is still dirty, try adding another 2-3 sprays of soap solution onto your microfiber cloth. And wipe the screen again. Press lightly on the screen as you wipe it clean. Don’t apply a lot of pressure, or you may damage the plasma. Once you’ve spot-cleaned the screen and have removed the stubborn stains, use 1 more microfiber cloth to dry the spots you cleaned. This will prevent new bits of airborne dust from sticking to the screen. If you find that the screen is still slightly wet and soapy, you may need to slightly dampen a microfiber cloth with distilled water. Use the cloth to wipe the soapy residue off the screen.

summary: Fill a spray bottle with water and 2-3 drops of dishwashing detergent. Spray 2-3 squirts of the liquid onto a microfiber cloth. Use 1 finger to wipe the stained spot on your plasma screen. Wipe the screen dry with a clean microfiber cloth.


Summarize the following:
The ideal weather conditions for applying stucco involve an overcast day with low wind, and temperatures of 50 to 60ºF (10–16ºC). Delay the job if the temperature is expected to drop below 40ºF (4ºC) or rise above 90ºF (32ºC) in the next week. If the weather is sunny, store your stucco and sand under a tarp between uses. If they feel warm to the touch, don’t attempt to use either the stucco or the sand. You may stucco over any rigid material attached to your support studs. The most common surfaces for stucco are plywood, oriented strand board (OSB), cement board, and exterior grade gypsum sheathing. Make sure to follow local building codes while installing the sheathing material. It is possible to stucco over an open frame, but this results in a less even and less structurally secure wall. If you plan to go this route, drive nails halfway into the studs, spaced out vertically in 5-6 inch (13-15 cm) intervals. String line wire horizontally along the protruding nails. You may also use a draining house wrap such as Tyvek drainwrap. Most building codes require at least 2 layers of "Grade D" building paper or an equivalent water-resistant barrier. You may also use 15 lb per 100 square foot roofing felt (6.8 kg per 9.3 square meters) or some types of housewrap, but do not use a plastic housewrap not intended for stucco. Overlap the paper by at least 4 inches (10 cm) and fasten with roofing nails.  Start at the bottom and overlap the paper or felt as you work your way up. While not required by most codes, an air gap between the 2 layers is highly recommended to prevent wall rot. A 3D plastic drainage mat between the 2 barriers is one way to accomplish this. Install casing bead as a plaster stop at the corners of doors and windows. Install weep screed at the base of the wall for better drainage. For this project, these 2 materials are not interchangeable. Selecting the correct lath and installing it properly is one of the more difficult parts of this project. Consulting a local contractor is recommended. In most cases, you should nail or staple the lath to the studs (not the sheathing) at no less than 7-inch (18 cm) intervals. Overlap the lath by at least ½ inch (1.25 cm) along the long side and 1 inch (2.5 cm) at the end, but not much more.  Be sure to use only galvanized roofing nails or staples designed for use with stucco. Otherwise, your nails or staples will rust and pull loose. In all exterior stucco applications, you must use G-60 hot-dipped galvanized lath.  Choose lath with at least ¼ inch (6mm) furring, or make up for non-furred lath using furring strips or furring nails. Without this furring, the stucco will not adhere properly to the lath. To reduce cracking, divide the wall into rectangular panels using control joints, spacing them no more than 18 ft (5.5 m) apart. Also install control joints wherever 2 dissimilar walls meet. If the lath is expanded metal (rather than stucco mesh), cut it behind each control joint to fully separate this rigid material into panels. Make the panels as close to square as possible, and no larger than 144 ft2 (13 m2). . Mix the scratch coat from 1 part cement material and 2¼ to 4 parts plaster sand. If you are using Type I Portland cement instead of plastic cement, you'll need to add your own hydrated lime; count the final cement and lime mixture as the "1 part cement." Mix with just enough potable water that you can trowel the stucco; any more, and it is likely to sag.  Make sure to use cool water when mixing your stucco, especially if your hose has been sitting in the sun. If the water is hot or warm, it will cause your stucco to dry too quickly. The aggregate in the cement should be clean and well graded. Apply the scratch coat with a square trowel at a 45º angle, firmly pushing it into the lath. This layer should be ⅜ inch (9.5 mm) thick.  The first scratch coat should be thick enough to cover your wire grid. You may find it easier to use a hawk for some portions of the application. The first coat is called the "scratch coat" because of the shallow, horizontal lines scored into it by a notched trowel. This will ensure a good bond with the next coat. When stuccoing over stud construction, the thick scratch coat must be allowed to cure for 48 hours. During this time, it is critical to protect the stucco from drying out. Mist or fog the stucco twice daily unless the relative humidity is above 70%. Protect the wall with a windscreen or sunshade if necessary. You can also use a rotating lawn sprinkler to keep the stucco damp. Keep the sprinkler turned down to a low setting and pull it away from the house enough so that it keeps the surface damp without soaking it. Mix another batch using 1 part cement and 3 to 5 parts sand. Apply another ⅜ inch (9.5 mm) layer of stucco and screed to an even thickness, for a total thickness so far of ¾ inch (19 mm). Once the brown coat loses its sheen, float it smooth. Wet cure as you did the scratch coat, but this time allow at least 7 days. The first 48 hours are the most important, but you should continue to mist or fog it for this whole period, whenever it looks like it's about to dry. This final ⅛ inch (3 mm) layer determines the texture of your stucco wall. Apply and float it as you did the brown coat, but this time use 1 part cement to 1½ to 3 parts sand. You may purchase a finish which already contains pigment, or trowel on a plain finish and paint over it once it has had at least a week to cure.  Colored stucco finishes work best in pastel shades. If the finish is colored, wetting the surface during floating may cause mottling. A fog coat may make the color more even. Many decorative textures are possible when applying this final layer. Judge the appearance from at least 30 feet (9m) back before settling on a look.
summary: Check the weather forecast. Put up sheathing materials. Cover the plywood with building paper and come back over that with a dimple screen or other rain screen. Install weep screeds and casing bead. Attach metal lath. Install control joints. Mix the scratch coat Trowel the scratch coat into the lath. Score the scratch coat lightly. Wet cure the scratch coat. Mix and apply the brown coat. Wet cure for at least 7 days. Cover with the finish coat.