Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Place candles inside a cupcake tin. Melt the wax in the oven. Move the wicks. Place a pinecone in each opening. Let the wax set.

Answer: Place a tealight candle in each compartment of a cupcake tin.  To make the firelighters easier to remove, line each compartment of the tin with a cupcake wrapper. If the candle has any metal cases or similar pieces, remove those pieces before placing them in the tin. Leave the wick intact, but make sure that each wick stands upright. You could use pieces of broken candle instead of tea lights, if desired. Only fill the cupcake compartment about halfway; do not fill it to the very top. Place the tin of candles in your oven. Set the oven to bake at a temperature between 300 and 350 degrees Fahrenheit (150 to 180 degrees Celsius). Keep the candles inside until the wax completely melts. The exact temperature doesn't matter, but it should be within a moderate range to help the wax melt slowly, safely, and thoroughly. Carefully remove the pan from the oven. Use tweezers to fish out the wicks and move them to one side of the compartment.  By moving the wicks, you will make it easier to prevent them from getting lost under the pinecones. If you used pieces of candle that did not have a wick, add a wick to the melted wax now. Use a small piece of rope or small tube of rolled paper. Slowly press one pinecone into each compartment of melted wax. The wax should rise up around it, but stop pressing down before the wax overflows. The best pinecones are those that are already open, but size does not make much difference. It is also advisable to lightly dust off as much dirt and debris as possible before using them in your firelighters. Once the wax cools and hardens, you should be able to remove the firelighters from the tin. Peel away the liners from the wax before using. Keep the firelighters in sealed plastic containers until ready to use.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Have the rug dry cleaned if it is very important to you. Shake your rug outside. Vacuum the rug. Ensure the rug won't move while you're scrubbing it. Use a soft brush to gently scrub with soap and water. Wash with vinegar to minimize yellowing. Vacuum again. Optionally, spritz the rug with dilute fabric softener. Dry face-down. Don't place the rug on or near any carpeting until it is completely dry.

Answer: Viscose is a fairly fragile fiber and also one that is very vulnerable to bleeding dye. Because of this, it's easy to damage viscose rugs or cause them to bleed by simply trying to clean them. If your viscose rug has sentimental value, it may be a better idea to have the rug professionally dry-cleaned than to risk irreversible damage or dye-bleeding by cleaning it yourself. The goal of cleaning a viscose rug is essentially to get the rug as clean as possible while keeping it as dry as possible. Thus, before using any liquid detergents, it's a wise idea to try to clean your rug with methods that don't require getting it wet before trying to clean it with methods that do. Take your rug outside and shake it firmly to remove any loose dirt or dust. You may also try beating the rug against a railing or pole for added power. Next, use a vacuum to remove any ground-in dirt or sediment. Run the vacuum head over the rug several times both with and against the grain, paying extra attention to any extra-dirty spots. If you can, use a head attachment that doesn't have mechanical brushes. Viscose is fairly fragile and the rough action of mechanical brushes can easily cause it to tear. If your rug is still dirty, you may need to carefully wash it. Place the rug on a mounting board or secure it to a table you don't mind getting dirty before cleaning. Washing viscose carpeting requires some scrubbing, so you won't want the carpet to slip around on the floor while you scrub it and you definitely don't want it to bleed dye into the floor or any nearby carpeting. Heat water to a lukewarm temperature and combine with a few drops of soap or carpet detergent to create a cleaning solution. Use a soft-bristled brush (like a window-washing brush) to scrub this solution into problem areas of the rug. Avoid hard-bristled brushes or mechanical brushes, as these can easily tear the fragile viscose fibers. Be conservative with your cleaning fluid - the less moisture you use, the lower the chance of dye bleeding. It's wise to test your cleaning solution on a small portion of the rug that won't be seen before cleaning the whole thing. This way, you'll know immediately whether your solution causes dye bleeding or other distress to the fabric before proceeding. Cellulose fibers (including viscose) turn yellow when wet. To help minimize this unsightly yellowing, lightly rinse the wet portions of the rug with a mixture of vinegar and water. The acetic acid in the vinegar helps prevent yellowing as the rug dries, though it may not eliminate yellowing entirely. To remove as much moisture as possible from your rug, vacuum a second time after you've finished using your liquid cleaners. Pay special attention to any wet areas. As directed above, you'll want to avoid using head attachments that have mechanical brushes to prevent damage to the rug. Viscose fibers can stiffen as they dry, creating clumped, splotchy sections on your rug. To help prevent this, you may want to mist the rug ever-so-delicately with a mixture of fabric softener and water using a spray bottle. This can prevent the fibers from stiffening and lessens or eliminates the dreaded "clumps". You may still find that you need to break up clumps after the rug dries. Do so gently, by hand. Allowing your rug to dry face-down lessens the yellowing effect that can occur as viscose dries. Place your viscose rug in a clean, dry place or hang it horizontally as it dries. However, note that this will make the underside of the rug yellow more than normal. As mentioned above, viscose is notorious for bleeding dye when wet. Thus, you'll want to keep your rug far away from any light-colored fabrics (especially expensive carpeting) while you're waiting for it to dry. Dye stains can be very tricky to remove from carpeting and the bleeding of dye from the rug itself is virtually irreversible.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Recognize the symptoms of an ingrown fingernail. Learn the causes of ingrown fingernails. Monitor for worsening symptoms. Prevent ingrown fingernails.

Answer:
An ingrown fingernail is a fingernail where one edge of the nail grows and curves into the soft skin around the sides of the finger. The resulting pressure causes redness, pain, swelling, and sometimes an infection.  If ingrown fingernails get infected, there may be pus and the swelling may extend along the finger. The ingrown nail can grow into the soft skin on either the inner or outer corner of the nail. Ingrown fingernails are rarer than ingrown toenails; however, there are a few things that lead to them. Causes of ingrown fingernails include:  Injury Nail biting Cutting the fingernails too short or unevenly Fungal infections Having curved or thickened fingernails, which may be due to genetics, but can be a problem in older people Most ingrown fingernails will heal with home or standard medical treatment. However, some infections may become severe. If your symptoms become severe, you should go to your doctor or the emergency room immediately. If your fingernail has pus, if the pain around an ingrown fingernail is getting worse, if the redness and tenderness spreads, if you cannot bend the finger at any of the joints, or if you have a fever, seek medical attention. You can try to prevent ingrown fingernails from occurring. Refrain from cutting your nails too short because this can lead to ingrown fingernails. You also should refrain from ripping or tearing your fingernails. File off any rough, uneven edges.  Make sure to keep your hands and nails dry. Keep your nails clean. Keep a watch on your fingernails to look for signs of ingrown nails so you can catch one early.