Summarize the following:
You need to measure the total height of the wall and the width of the wall to be framed using a tape measure. The width will be used to measure the top and bottom frames, and the height will be used to measure the individual studs.  In general, when you're building a wall for a non-basement room, you will build the entire frame on the floor first, and then lift and move it into place before attaching it to joists and beams accordingly. To do this properly, you must know exactly how long each stud has to be to make the wall the correct height. Buy enough 2 x 4 to fill the space. You'll need one stud the height of the wall every 16 in. along each frame, which will be the width of the wall. You can divide the width by 16 to quickly determine how many studs you'll need, and how much to buy. Using a circular saw, cut your plates and studs to match the measurements you took in the previous step. Start by cutting bottom and top plates that correspond to the width measurements you took for the wall to be assembled. Hold them against each other, to make sure every board is flush, and clean them up on the ends if necessary. Then cut the studs of the appropriate height. Each stud needs to have the width of the bottom and top plate subtracted from the total height of the measurement you took, to account for the added space. Use your tape measure and mark along the top and bottom frames using a pencil line where the studs will go. Each stud will get three marks on the bottom plate and three marks on the top plate, marking the center point and the two ends of each stud where it meets the plates. For load-bearing security, a stud needs to be placed every 16 inches (40.6 cm), which needs to be measured very precisely.  Measure your first mark by drawing an "x" 16 inches (40.6 cm) from the end of the frame, then subtract 3 3/4" from that mark and draw a line (at 15 1/4 in.). Use the shorter end of the framing square–the exact width of the 2 x 4–to measure from your line to where the other edge of the stud will fall. In other words, the "x" you drew at 16 in. will mark the center point of the stud, and the two lines will mark the sides of the stud. This is necessary to account for the width of the end studs, and that the center of each stud will be equidistant from the next. To make your next mark, measure 16 in. from the first "x" and make another "x" to mark where the center of the next stud will be, subtracting and using the square to mark the end points Repeat this process on both the bottom and top plates, making the marks where every stud will be installed. Use your studs to lay out the frame of the proper size and shape, laying the boards out on the ground to assemble them.  Start with an end stud. Lay it on end against the top lip of the bottom plate and nail from underneath the bottom plate into the end stud, using 3” nails, square through the bottom plate. Be very sure that the boards are lined up squarely. Continue attaching all the studs to the bottom plate, centering them using the lines. Using your markings, attach each stud 16” apart all the way to the end with 3” nails. Attach the top plate. Now that all the studs have been attached to the bottom plate, lay the top plate along the free ends of the studs, and nail through the top plate to attach each stud with 3” nails. Blocking boards are 2” by 4” board segments that fit perpendicularly in between the studs, about 4 feet (1.2 m) up from the bottom of the wall. Measure the gap between the studs, cut extra board accordingly, and install them by hammering 3” nails through them into the studs at a 60 degree angle on both ends, securing them firmly into the studs. Stagger the height of each blocking board so the nails can be used to secure the boards neatly. Line up the top lip of the second blocking board with the bottom lip of the first, then do the opposite with the next, repeating the pattern. This should allow ample space to nail them to each stud. With a friend helping you, lift the frame up from the top plate so that the bottom plate remains on the ground. Carefully slide the frame into place, double-checking all angles and be sure everything is properly positioned square. Now that you've got your wall placed, check to make sure it's straight and secure, flush against the joists on the subfloor. Shimming is the art of using slender pieces of wood to fill in any gaps between the ceiling and the top of the frame, the account of small human measurement error. You can buy these at most home repair stores, tapping them in from the side where there's a little bit of space. To check for plumb, check to be sure the current section of wall is perfectly vertical. Use a level to assist you in doing this. Use your hammer to make small adjustments, banging the wall forward or back, if you need to. Start by attaching the top plate. Use 3 1/2” light construction nails and nail straight up through the framing at close, regular intervals as you plumb and level.  Attach the bottom plate. Again, use 3 1/2” nails, driving them through the plate into the floor. Attach the end studs. Hammer 3 1/2” nails all along both end studs to attach them to the framing in the sides of the house. Double check that the studs have been fastened and are level.

summary: Take measurements in the space where the wall will go. Cut studs and plates to the appropriate lengths, given your measurements. Mark where the studs will go on the top and bottom plate. Assemble the frame. Fill in blocking boards. Raise the wall. Shim each section and check for plumb. Secure the wall to the beams or joists accordingly.


Summarize the following:
Get a quality pool test kit at your local pool supply store or online. The kit may use test strips or a drop test. Check that the free chlorine levels are 1-3 parts per million (ppm). Make sure the pH levels are at 7.2-7.8. This will ensure the pool stays clean and functions well.  If you need to lower the pH levels in the pool, you can add muriatic acid to the water. To raise the pH levels, add sodium bicarbonate. Consult your owner's manual or speak to a professional salt pool cleaner if you need guidance. The stabilizer levels help to prevent the chlorine in your pool from being lost due to UV rays from the sun. Use a test kit to check the stabilizer levels. If you have an outdoor pool, make sure the stabilizer levels are at 70-80 ppm. If you have an indoor pool, you should have stabilizer levels at 0-30 ppm.  You can lower the stabilizer levels by draining the pool and adding fresh water to dilute the pool water. You can raise the stabilizer levels by adding cyanuric acid to the pool water, based on the manufacturer's instructions. The alkalinity level helps to keep the pH level stable. It should be between 80-120 ppm. You can bump up the alkalinity level by adding baking soda to the water and reduce it by adding muriatic acid.  The calcium in the water helps to prevent the water from becoming corrosive and cloudy. It should be at 200-400 ppm. You can add calcium to the pool to bump up the calcium level and reduce the amount you add to bring the calcium level down. The salt level should be in the range specified by the manufacturer of the pool. This is usually around 2700-4500 ppm. You can add more salt to the water to bump up the salt level to where it should be. Always make sure the cell in your pool is working so the salt can circulate properly. Make sure metals like copper, iron, and manganese are not present in the water by using a test kit. Check for metals when you add fresh water or at the start of the pool season. These metals can lead to corrosion and other issues in the pool if they are present.
summary: Use a test kit to check the free chlorine and pH levels weekly. Check the stabilizer levels weekly. Check the alkalinity, calcium, and salt levels once a month with a test kit. Check that there are no metals in the water.