Q: After you’ve washed and dried your clothes, grab a metal or wire clothing hanger. Before you put your clothes on, gently glide the metal hanger over your clothes. The metal discharges the electricity and removes the static. When you go to hang your clothing, hang clothing that is sticking and clinging with a metal hanger.  You can also pass a metal hanger in between your skin and your clothes after putting the clothes on. This works particularly well with delicate fabrics, like silk. However, metal wire hangers can distort some clothing items, like heavy sweaters. If you think that your clothing may be damaged by a wire hanger, simply run the hanger over the surface of the fabric before storing your item some other way. Take a metal safety pin and turn your clothing inside out. Unlock the pin and slide it through the seam of your clothing so that it’s hidden from the outside. Turn your clothing out to face the right direction and put your clothing on. The safety pin will absorb any static electricity.  It doesn’t matter if you’re removing your clothes from the dryer, closet, or dresser. The pin will still work to remove static cling. Avoid placing the pin on the front or near an exposed hem, since others will be able to see it if you do. Running a metal object across your clothing discharges the static electricity. After drying your clothes, put a metal thimble on your finger. Run the finger across the surface of every clothing item to reduce the static charge. You can use a metal-bristled brush instead of a thimble if you prefer, although this may not be the best choice if your fabric could snag on the bristles. As with other tricks involving metal, the idea is to discharge the electrical charge to prevent static. Touching any metal object will accomplish the same goal if you do not have a metal thimble. If you don’t have a thimble, brush, hanger, or pin, any metal object will successfully remove an electrical charge. A fork, spoon, bowl, gear, screwdriver, or any other object will work so long as it’s made of metal. Make sure that your metal object is clean before running it over your clothes.
A: Slide the affected clothes through a metal hanger. Hide a safety pin inside of your clothes to absorb static. Run a metal thimble or brush over the fabric. Drag a metal object over the shirt to gather electrical charge.

Q: This doesn't just apply to saltwater adventures, but to fresh water outings as well.  If you have an older motor or one based  upon an older design, you should buy a set of flushing "earmuffs": two flexible rubber seals attached to a metal clamp. One side can be attached to a garden hose, while the other is solid and will serve to plug a water intake. Slip the apparatus onto the lower unit where the water is taken in and then attach the earmuff to a garden hose. If there are additional water intakes that are not covered by the earmuffs, use duct tape to cover them.  Attach a garden hose to the earmuffs or mount and turn the water on. Newer motor designs already have mounts, and so the earmuffs are unnecessary. Start up the engine. The water pump will then flush out the system. (Practice safe boating and remember to stay clear of the prop and keep the motor out of gear.) Carefully put your finger through the stream of water exiting the motor. It should be warm, but not hot. If the output is not strong, you may have some debris stuck in the outflow tube. Immediately shut down the engine to prevent overheating and damage. If the flow tube is obstructed, insert a small piece of wire into the tube and work it back and forth (again, while the engine remains off). Start the engine again and check the output. If that doesn't solve the problem, you may need a new water pump impeller. Disconnect the fuel line if the boat is going to be stored for an extended period of time. You should allow the engine to burn the small amount of fuel that is in the carburetor. Old fuel can gum up an engine, and the best way to keep the motor running at a high level is to burn off all fuel remaining in the mechanism. Be advised that if you own a two-stroke motor with more than one carburetor, the top carburetor will run dry first while all of the cylinders will continue to run.  Without fuel, the top cylinder will not be getting any lubrication. Listen closely as the engine may get louder as the top cylinder begins to overheat. Also beware of any burning smell that is unusual for your engine. Just to make sure that all the moving parts are going to stay put for the next few minutes of cleaning. There should be no water or other liquids moving freely about the engine compartment. If you find leaks, consult a boating mechanic. Some of the best options are lubricants such as WD-40 or Quick-lube. Be sure to lubricate or grease all the moving parts such as the pivots, shift mechanism, throttle cables, carburetor valves, etc. Clean it off, and then cover the whole motor in a canvas or plastic covering for the duration of storage.
A:
Flush out the engine at home after every outing. While flushing the motor, check the water pump to make sure it has good water flow. After flushing the engine, disconnect the fuel line (if applicable). Be sure to turn off the key and, if you have a battery switch, turn it off. Take the engine cowling off and check for fuel or water leaks. Wipe down and spray all accessible mechanical components and moving parts with an anti-corrosive. Place the cowling back onto its fittings.