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Make sure the paddle you’re playing with has rubber attached to at least one side. Most ping pong paddles have a thin sheet of rubber glued to the flat surface of the paddle. This adds traction to the face of the paddle and gives you more control over the ball. If your play style involves using a lot of spin to switch up the speed and direction of the ball, it’s important that you find a paddle with some good, grippy rubber.  Having control over the ball means making it go where you want at the speed you want, without having to worry about the ball sliding or deflecting off the paddle. Almost all ping pong paddles are rubberized these days. However, the quality, durability and play characteristics of rubbers can vary greatly. Play with a textured paddle to change the way you handle the ball. In addition to the rubber layer, some paddles also have textures known as “pimples,” “dimples” or “waffling” that grip the ball and help it stick briefly after it makes contact. For defensive players and people who like to decide the pace of a game, a textured paddle can make a big difference.  With a textured paddle, you’ll have additional traction but give up a little bit of speed and reactivity on returns. Deep textures are not recommended for players who use a lot of spin techniques. Decide whether you’d play better with a thicker or thinner rubber sponge. The sponge lies beneath the outer surface of the rubber to absorb impact and offer grip and control. It also changes the speed with which the ball can be returned. Thicker sponges make the paddle heavier and more dense, which lets you hit the ball with more speed. Thin layers of rubber, on the other hand, provide sensitivity and let you slow things down a bit. In addition to the type, softness and texture of the rubber, you have a choice of how thick you want the sponge. The more you play with a paddle, the fast the rubber surface will begin to show signs of wear. When this happens, either replace the rubber and sponge or drop some money on a new paddle. Rubber that has been worn thin loses a lot of its grippiness and spring, which will compromise your technique.  Look for places where the texturing is thinned out or feels less pronounced to the touch. If you tend to use commercial paddles, buy a new one once the old one is past its prime. If you play with a custom paddle, strip off the worn out rubber and attach a new one.

summary: Play with a rubberized paddle to increase control. Look at different rubber textures. Consider how thick you want the rubber sponge to be. Replace your paddle or rubber when it becomes worn out.


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The pattern you’re laying your flooring in will affect how much you need. Measure the square footage of your floor (1 square meter is about 10.5 square feet). Then add 5-7% more square footage to account for waste if you’re laying your boards straight. Add 15% waste if you’re laying the floors in a herringbone pattern. There are plenty of places you can order your flooring from, such as home improvement stores, flooring wholesalers, and construction contractors can all order flooring for you. It's probably best to look at the flooring online or in-store before you decide on which flooring you want for sure. If you’ve chosen free-floating, or laminate, flooring, test fit 2 pieces by clicking them together. If it comes apart easily or doesn’t join securely, avoid it and purchase a different variety to avoid problems down the line. Open your boxes of engineered hardwood in the room where you’ll be installing it. Make sure the pieces are flat, not leaning against something, which could warm them. Allow the flooring to sit for 3 to 4 days in that room so it can acclimate to the temperature and moisture and expand or contract as necessary. If you’ve recently installed new drywall or plaster, wait at least a week before opening your boxes of hardwood. The moisture present in most basements and garages is bad for engineered hardwoods. It can warp the wood and permanently damage it.

summary: Measure the square footage of your floor. Order your floors. Let the flooring acclimate for 3 to 4 days. Avoid storing the hardwood in the basement or garage.


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Press the clutch down with your left foot. Press the button on the top of the handbrake to release it and pull the handbrake all the way up to its vertical position. Keep the clutch held down all the way while doing this. This method is a little easier if you struggle shuffling your foot quickly from the brake to the accelerator. It’s basically the same as the first method, except you’re using the handbrake instead of the foot brake. Turn the key in the ignition to start the car. Do not shift your feet or move the handbrake while doing this. Shift into 1st gear. Slowly apply pressure to the accelerator while releasing the clutch. When you feel the clutch biting, or kicking back, you will know that your vehicle is trying to move forward. Once the clutch is biting, press the button on the handbrake down. Move it forward at the same time as you’re pressing the accelerator down to release the brake and move the car forward. Essentially, you’re releasing the handbrake and clutch at the same time that you’re accelerating. There may be some discrepancy between the clutch and the handbrake if you’re on a really steep incline.
summary: Pull the handbrake up while pressing the clutch down. Turn the car on and shift into 1st gear. Apply gas with your right foot while releasing the clutch. Release the handbrake at the same time as the clutch.