Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Try out the "paper test" to see if the skis suit your weight well. Rent out a 1-2 sizes for a day to see what you are more comfortable on. If stuck between two sizes of skis, consider your leg length, not your total height. If you're stuck between two weight levels, consider you experience level. Choose the right pole size for your type of skiing.

Answer: On a hard floor, place a piece of normal paper underneath the skis. Step into them like normal, and slide back and forth. When you have weight evenly on both skis, the paper should slide around easily. When you have weight on just one ski, the paper shouldn't slide at all. If you're between the ranges of two sizes, or just feel unsure about them, then take them for a test. Many ski shops will let you test out the skis out back as well, and there is no excuse not to try on the skis before buying. Just like shoes or clothes, you should try something you're going to be using often to make sure it fits.  Which ones move the smoothest under your feet? Where do you feel better balanced? The length of your legs is more important to consider than your total height, and this is often the "tie-breaker" if you're in between sizes. That said, the best thing to do is try both pairs on and see which fits your body best. The better a skier you are, the better prepared you are for longer skis. If you're in between the two weight classes, ask yourself honestly about your skill level and commitment to the sport. Better skiers should grab longer skis, and newbies should aim for something shorter. If you plan on skiing a lot, you might still aim for the bigger skis, even if you're not experienced. As you get better, you'll "grow" into the big skis, so you won't have to buy a new set of skis once you're a pro. In general, skate skiing requires longer poles, as you extend further out to the sides. Traditional skier usually like shorter poles, though not by much. In both cases, they should come up roughly to your armpits when standing straight up.   Skate: Should be roughly 90% of your height.  Traditional: Should be roughly 85% of your height.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Click Delete.

Answer: It's in the lower-right corner of the pop-up alert.  This deletes the search items for the time period you selected. You can also delete your history for Alexa, Skype, Yahoo, Pinterest, .


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Serve live prey less than half the size of the tarantula. Serve an appropriate number of prey per meal. Feed young tarantulas more frequently. Feed adult tarantulas a diet that is suited to their species. Don’t feed a tarantula when it is molting. Remove food waste after your tarantula has eaten. Provide fresh, chlorine-free water in a water dish.

Answer:
The mainstay of the tarantula diet is crickets, which you can purchase from a good pet store or online. You can also feed them mealworms, beetles, locusts, cockroaches, and earthworms. Whatever live prey you choose, it should be less than half the size of the tarantula you are feeding. Although live food is preferable, you can also serve dead food such as thawed baby mice or 1 centimeter (1/2’’) pieces of raw beef.  Don’t serve them prey items that are larger than the size of their abdomens.  Tarantulas are opportunists, so they may be able to subdue small lizards, snakes, and mice. Roaches have to be ordered online and a colony started to ensure a constant supply. The number of live prey you serve your tarantula will depend on the size of the prey. For instance, you could offer your tarantula a meal of two small insects or one larger insect, depending on your preference and the availability of feed. For younger tarantulas, you should just give them one prey at a time. However, adult tarantulas can handle multiple prey at once, which they will attack one at a time and then ball up into a meal of food and silk called a bolus. Since they are nocturnal animals, you’ll want to feed them at night. You should feed your tarantula a diet that is suited to their age. Very young tarantulas or “slings” require food every two or three days. Once the tarantula becomes a juvenile or reaches between 1.5 and 2 inches (25.4 and 76.2 millimeters), you can feed them one live insect, once or twice per week. Once they reach adulthood, tarantulas don’t need the same number of meals as juveniles. However, since the size and number of meals varies a lot depending on the species, you should ask the pet store for species-specific feeding information.  Feed an adult Grammostola porteri or rosea tarantula four to five crickets per month. Feed an adult Theraphosa or Pamphobeteus tarantula four or five crickets twice per week. Feed tropical tarantulas larger and more frequent meals, including Therophosa, Phormictopus, Pamphobeteus, Acanthoscurria, and Nhandu tarantulas. Feed an adult Pamphobeteus five crickets and one cockroach per week. If your tarantula is lying on its back and looks comatose, it is probably molting. During the molting process, your tarantula regenerates internal organs and sheds its skin. At this time, you shouldn’t give it any live prey, which could easily injure your tarantula. Five days after molting, it is safe to feed them again.  Don’t confuse molting with death. A dead tarantula will not lie on its back. If your tarantula is very sick or dying, it will do a death curl. It will curl its legs underneath itself in an awkward position. Take out any remaining live prey after your tarantula has finished eating, since these prey could bother your tarantula when it is resting. You’ll also want to remove any food waste, such as discarded bits of crickets in their water bowl. You can use a recycled plastic container, a plastic plant container or a water dish from a pet store. Put the container on the bottom of the terrarium, and add a rock so that live prey can escape. Otherwise, the crickets you feed your tarantula could drown and foul the water.  If you are adding a water dish for a tree-dwelling tarantula, you should place it about two thirds of the way up the side of the tank so that it is convenient for your tarantula. Put it close to the door of the terrarium, so you can fill it up. You can glue it to the side of the tank with an aquarium silicone sealant.  You can give your tarantula bottled water or water that has been filtered to remove chlorine.    {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/f\/f2\/Care-for-a-Tarantula-Step-16.jpg\/v4-460px-Care-for-a-Tarantula-Step-16.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/f\/f2\/Care-for-a-Tarantula-Step-16.jpg\/aid28059-v4-728px-Care-for-a-Tarantula-Step-16.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":"728","bigHeight":"546","licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a rel=\"nofollow\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}