Q: Although different tick species have different characteristics, most ticks have an oval-shaped body with a small head. They're usually reddish brown, dark brown, black, or grey in color. Ticks are generally no bigger than 1/4 inch long and some species may be much smaller. Note that fully fed females can dramatically swell up to 1/2 inch in size when they're full of blood. Unlike fleas, ticks aren't insects. They're arachnids, like spiders, so the adults have 8 legs. The younger or smallest ticks (larvae) have 6 legs. Ticks can't jump or fly, so they crawl onto the host's body. When the tick bites your cat, it will stay firmly attached until it's done feeding. You won't be able to see the tick's head while it's feeding, which might make it hard to tell if you're looking at a tick or dark skin growth. To tell the difference, look for the tick's legs. Ticks also tend to accumulate in warm, protected areas of the body, like between the paw pads, in the ears, and armpits. However, they can be found anywhere on your cat’s body.  If you are not sure whether the insect is a tick, you can place it in a completely sealed plastic bag and bring it to your cat’s veterinarian. Check your cat closely if she's been outside or somewhere where she may have been exposed to ticks (tall grassy fields, barns, farm, etc). If you notice a tick on your cat, make sure that the object is in fact a tick. Look for the legs to be sure it's a tick and not just growth on your cat's skin. If it is a tick, put on gloves and grasp the tick with fine-tipped tweezers, as close to the skin as possible. Pull back slowly, taking care not to twist your hand. You need to remove the tick's head along with the body. If not, the head could cause infection. Put the tick into a small container filled with rubbing alcohol to kill and preserve it, in case you want to show it to the vet. You should check your cat every day from head to tail for ticks if there's a tick infestation or your cat's been exploring areas where ticks live (like tall grassy fields). The vet will make sure that you choose a safe and effective product. You should also purchase tick treatments directly from your vet, since some of the medications sold at pet stores can be dangerous for cats. Topical "spot-on" treatments are available to treat fleas and ticks, while there are no oral products for treating ticks. Let the vet know if there are any small children or pregnant women in the home. This is an important factor in determining the safest course of medication for both you and your pet. You may have several options when it comes to choosing a topical tick treatment. Many of these monthly treatments should be used year round as a preventative treatment. Make sure that the product you choose is labeled for cats and not dogs. Cats can get very sick (or even die) if they are treated with a tick medication that is meant for dogs. Some common tick medications include:  Fipronil and (S)-methoprene (known as Frontline Plus for Cats): Apply this once a month to kill the larvae, eggs, and adult fleas. It also kills ticks and chewing lice.  Selamectin (known as Revolution): Apply this once a month to kill adult fleas and their eggs. It may also kill ticks, heartworms, ear mites, and sarcoptic mites, but it is not licensed as a product to kill ticks. It only has partial success with some ticks, and it not effective against Ixodes, which is the species that carries Lyme disease. Generally, you'll need to hold the applicator upright to keep it from spilling and open it according to the instructions. Spread the fur on your cat's neck (at the base of the skull or between the shoulder blades) to expose the skin. This way, your cat won't be able to lick the medication off when grooming. Turn the applicator upside down and squeeze all of the medication into a single spot directly on the skin. Make sure to get it on the skin and not just the fur. Check the applicator to make sure it's empty. Always read the product label for complete instructions, since they are different for each medication. Your vet may be able to recommend other options to keep ticks off your cat. One popular option is the Seresto collar, manufactured by Bayer. This collar can be used on kittens older than 10 weeks and adult cats. It repels and kills ticks for up to 8 months. Other brands of tick collar exist. You should consult with your veterinarian to see what is recommended for your cat.
A: Learn what ticks look like. Look for signs of ticks on your cat. Properly remove ticks. Talk with the veterinarian about tick medications. Choose a spot-on medication. Correctly apply the spot-on medication. Ask your vet about other tick control options.

Q: Most tub and shower pipes are small and easiest to unclog with a small, hand-held auger. These augers are easy to handle and flexible, which makes them great for pushing through narrow and angled pipes. These are available at all home improvement and hardware stores. There are two types of small plumbing snakes: drain augers, which are common small augers that have a round compartment with a long coil of wire in it, and closet augers, which are shorter and mostly used by plumbers to unclog toilets. A closet auger does not have the round compartment on it and so the wire length is much shorter. Choose a drain auger when getting a clog out of your tub or shower drain. In addition to an auger, you’ll need supplies to open up the drain and to clean up any water or debris that is in the drain. Get a bucket, screwdriver, wrench, and rubber cleaning gloves and put them near the drain. Also, have a few old towels around to clean up dirty water. Many tub and shower drains have built in stoppers and screens that need to be removed in order to access the pipes. Unscrew any cover plates and disassemble any stoppers in your way. Every tub and shower stopper is different and thus comes apart differently. If you can’t figure out how to take your stopper apart, do some internet research about your specific type of stopper. When inserting a snake, push the snake wire into the drain while simultaneously turning the handle on the back of the tool. This will turn the wire as you push, allowing it to move further down the drain through any clogs.  Some snakes only turn when the wire is in a locked position and can't be advanced. If this is the case with your snake, push the wire in a few inches and then lock the tool and rotate the wire. Repeat this by unlocking the wire, pushing it in a few more inches and then relocking and turning it. As you lower the cable, move your grip down until it's about 3 inches (7.6 cm) from the drain opening. This close grip allows you to control your motions and feel for the clog easier. Once the end of the snake hits the clog, turning the handle will push the hook at the end of the cable into the clog so that it can be grabbed. There is no need to turn the handle quickly. Slow and steady pressure on the clog will work most effectively. As you pull the cable out, turn the handle on the snake so that the cable rotates. This will help the cable move around bends in the pipe. Pulling the cable out of the pipe slowly will help to keep the clog hooked to the end. Run the water through the drain. It may take a few seconds to wash away the remnants of the clog, but it should begin to flow quickly.  If the drain is still obstructed, snake the drain one more time. Insert the wire into the pipe once again and spend more time trying to hook the clog to remove it. If water still won't run through the drain after you've snaked it several times, it may have been pushed further down into your pipes. In this case, it's time to call the plumber.
A:
Choose a small auger made to snake tub and shower drains. Gather the additional supplies you'll need. Remove any drain stoppers and screens in the drain. Insert the auger wire into the drain. Turn the handle on the snake to break up the clog. Pull the snake out of the drain slowly. Determine if the drain is still clogged by pouring water down it.