Article: Health care providers rely on behavioral symptoms and/or written questionnaires during routine checkups. There are screening tests that can also be done during these visits. If your doctor does not regularly screen for autism, ask for her to do so. There is no one-size-fits-all approach for autism. Tailor treatment to the individual's needs. Stop asking "What do autistic people need?” and instead ask “What does this specific person need?”  For example, one autistic person may have excellent self-care skills and above-average school performance, but need sensory integration therapy and social skills training. Another might be highly social but unable to care for herself and in need of counseling for depression. While there is no cure for autism, some of its challenging aspects and comorbid conditions can be helped through medication.   Anxiety Elevated energy level Self-injurious behavior Inability to concentrate Depression Seizures Severe outburst of anger or aggression  Many autistic people also experience comorbid disabilities/health conditions, such as anxiety disorders, epilepsy, digestive issues, depression, ADHD, oppositional defiant disorder, and more. These are all treatable.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Seek professional help. Understand that every autistic person is different. Consider medications. Consult with your health care provider to ensure your loved one is receiving the proper treatments for their individual needs. Consider comorbid conditions.

Problem: Article: Before fixing the window, you’ll need to get access to the inside of the car door. For smaller problems like an off track window, you can do this by removing the interior car door panel, the plastic cover concealing the car’s window mechanisms. These are typically held in place by simple screws and bolts, meaning you can remove them using a screwdriver and wrench. If the fasteners are particularly tight, use a power tool instead of a manual one.  For doors with standard panel fasteners, look for screws along the top, base, and side of the panel. For doors where the fasteners are hidden or non-standard, check your owner’s manual for diagrams and removal instructions. Depending on the make and model of your car, you may also need to remove a crank handle, window control switch, or any number of accessories including cupholders, arm rests, luggage bins, and door handles. Most of these can be taken off with the same tools as the door itself, though some may require a specific tool or non-standard method of removal. Check your user’s manual for details on car specific accessories. With all the trims and fastenings removed, place a small, strong tool under the edges of the door. Press down on the tool gently to pop the door panel out. You may need to do this in multiple spots around the panel to fully remove it. Though any thin tool can be used, ranging from small crowbars to thin pieces of metal, specialty panel removal tools will make the job easier. If your car has any, pull back insulation or vapor barriers covering the inside of the door. Then, unplug any wiring keeping the panel fixed to the car. When you’re finished, remove the door panel and put it to the side.
Summary: Remove screws and bolts along the interior of the car door. Remove the crank handle, control switch, and other accessories if necessary. Pop the door panel off using a thin, sturdy tool. Remove coverings and unplug any wires connected to the door panel.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: There are a variety of tools you can use to remove the caulk, but it's most effective to slice it off with a razor scraper, utility knife, or five-in-one painter's tool. Using quick, sharp strokes, slice under the length of all old caulk beads. Go along each edge of the caulk with your blade to get it removed.  If you are caulking a new shower, there won't be any caulk for you to remove. Note that metal blades and chemical caulk removers can damage plastic tubs. Use a plastic blade if your tub or shower is made of plastic. Once you have loosened the caulk with a knife, pull it off using your fingers. In most cases, if you sliced along both edges of the caulk thoroughly, you will be able to grab one end and pull a long strip out all in one piece. If you can't get a section out easily, cut along the edges again and try to pry it out with the knife. After you slice off the majority of the caulk, there will likely be some small pieces left on the walls. Scrub the sides of the shower with a dry, nonabrasive pad or sponge to remove as much of the old caulk as you can. Follow that by wiping down the surface with rubbing alcohol or scrubbing it with a multi-surface cleanser to remove any remaining caulk, shower scum, or grease.  If your old caulk was made of silicone, use a pad or rag soaked in mineral spirits to break down any remaining bits of caulk. Use a soft rag and not an abrasive one, so that the shower surface is not scarred. Use a damp, clean rag to wipe all seams. This will remove any cleaner, caulk dust, and other dirt from the area. Then dry down the area thoroughly with a dry rag, hair dryer, or paper towels. You can also simply let the area sit until you are sure the seams are all completely dry. If you leave debris or dirt on the surface, the new caulk will not stick as well and not last as long. Place a strip of tape on either side of each joint being caulked. The lines of tape should run parallel to each other and be spaced roughly 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) apart from each other. The tape is being used to help keep the bead of caulk straight and uniform.

SUMMARY: Slice away any old caulk. Pull out loosened pieces old caulk. Clean out any debris and residue in the seams. Wipe the area down and then let it dry. Line the joints with painter's tape.

Remove debris like leaves and algae from the bottom of the pool once the water is drained. Then place your water hose at the deep-end side of the pool. Position it near the ledge so that the water will run over the tile when you turn it on. Because the acid solution emits noxious fumes and is harmful if it gets onto your skin and body, rubber boots, safety gloves and goggles, and a respirator with an acid approved filter are necessary. For extra precaution, wear a protective suit that is chemical-resistant. You can use a plastic bucket. Make sure to slowly add the acid to the water and not the other way around. Because the acid will fizz and emit fumes when you pour it into the water, make sure you are wearing your respirator, goggles, gloves, and protective clothing. You can purchase muriatic acid and acid-resistant cleaning tools from your local pool maintenance store or online. Starting at the deep end of the pool, work the solution into the grout with the brush. Working on small sections at a time, scrub the tile with an acid-resistant scrub brush. Once the calcium silicate scaling is removed, rinse the tile with water using the hose.  Alternatively, fill a watering can with the solution and use the can to pour it onto the tiles. Then use the acid-resistant scrub brush to clean the tile. Repeat this process until all the tiles are cleaned. Add 2 pounds (.9 kilograms) of soda ash for every gallon of acid. Do this once you are done cleaning all of the tiles. The soda ash neutralizes the acid so it can be safely removed from your pool. Do this using a water pump. Once the acid is pumped out, rinse the pool with the hose. Then proceed to pump this water out of the pool as well. When the pool is completely rinsed and cleaned, refill it with water.  When rinsing the pool, make sure to rinse your boots, gloves, goggles, and protective clothing with water as well. Rinse until all the acid is completely gone. Discard any unused acid at your local hazardous waste disposal.
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One-sentence summary --
Drain your pool. Wear protective clothing. Add 1 gallon (3.8 liters) of muriatic acid to 1 gallon of water in a bucket. Apply the solution to the tile with an acid brush. Add soda ash to the acidic solution at the bottom of the pool. Pump the neutralized acid out of the pool.