Summarize the following:
If a horse panics and bolts, there’s no point in trying to chase it, because you won’t be able to outrun it. Also, since a horse is a prey animal in the wild, its instincts will tell it to continue to run away if you run toward it. Instead, wait until the horse is calm, then approach it slowly.  You’ll spook the horse if you wave your arms, yell at it, or lunge toward it when it’s already scared. Instead, keep your arms down at your sides or slightly extended as you slowly and calmly walk toward the horse. If the horse is calmed down, try to corral it in a corner, if possible. Even if you lose sight of the horse, it will typically come back to the group once it calms down. However, if you’re close to home, it may head there, instead. It’s fine if the horse still seems worried or hesitant, but it should be either standing mostly still or only jigging slightly. Slowly walk up to the horse near its front shoulder, since this will help protect you from getting kicked.  Talk to the horse in a soothing, quiet voice as you approach. In some cases, you may need to ask additional people from the barn to come help you corral the horse. They can help you corner the horse into a position where you can catch it. If you try to approach a horse that’s rearing or overly excited, you could be seriously hurt, or the horse could hurt itself trying to get away. Apply firm, steady pressure to the rein, pulling down and outward until the horse starts to lower its head. For horses, lowering their heads is a cue to calm down, and is a trick frequently used by horse trainers to encourage more peaceful interactions with the horse.  As the horse lowers its head, try to get it to look at you with both eyes. As it becomes more focused, it should also be calmer. If reaching for the reins upsets your horse again, try using a halter and lead line instead. Drape the lead over your horse's shoulders, then make a loop with it. This technique can also help if the horse doesn't have a bridle on. for 10-15 minutes, changing direction every 2-3 circles. Once the immediate excitement has passed, distract the horse by putting it to work. Attach the horse to a long lunge line, then direct the horse to trot in circles at the end of the rope. Stand in the center of the circle, and every 2-3 passes, stop the horse and have it change directions. Being put to work will ensure the horse doesn’t feel rewarded for its bad behavior, which might occur if you just put it into a stall with its food after it gets excited or spooked. If you had to dismount and lunge your horse on the trail to calm it down, get back in the saddle after you’re finished with the exercise. Keep in mind that training a horse often takes consistency and patience on your part, so don’t get discouraged if the horse starts to get excited again later on, or on the next ride. Just keep practicing the same techniques each time. If you’re doing groundwork with a horse and it gets excited, you don’t have to mount it once it calms down.
Don’t chase the horse if you get separated. Approach the horse’s shoulder slowly once it’s calmed down some. Grab the horse’s reins and pull one rein down and to the side. Lunge the horse Mount the horse once it’s calm if you’re in the middle of a ride.