Your power supply transformer determines how large you can make your Tesla coil. Most Tesla coils operate with a transformer that puts out a voltage between 5,000 to 15,000 volts at a current between 30 and 100 milliamperes. You can obtain a transformer from a college surplus store or from the Internet, or cannibalize the transformer from a neon sign. The best way to create this capacitor is to wire a number of small capacitors in series so that each capacitor handles an equal share of the total voltage of the primary circuit. (This requires that each individual capacitor have the same capacitance as the other capacitors in the series.) This kind of capacitor is called a multi-mini-capacitor or MMC.  Small capacitors, and their associated bleed resistors, can be obtained from electronics supply stores, or you can scrounge for ceramic capacitors from old television sets. You can also make the capacitors out of sheets of polyethylene and aluminum foil. To maximize the power output, the primary capacitor should be able to reach its full capacitance each half-cycle of the frequency of the power being supplied to it. (For a 60 Hz power supply, this means 120 times each second.) If you're planning on a single spark gap, you'll need metal bolts at least a quarter-inch (6 millimeters) thick to serve as the spark gap to withstand the heat generated by the discharge of electricity between the sparks. You can also wire multiple spark gaps in series, use a rotary spark gap or blow compressed air between the sparks to moderate the temperature. (An old vacuum cleaner can be used to blow the air.) The coil itself will be made of wire, but you'll need something to wrap the wire around in a spiral shape. The wire should be enameled copper wire, which you can obtain from an electrical supply store or by cannibalizing the outlet cord from a discarded appliance. The object you wrap the wire around can be either cylindrical, such as a cardboard or plastic tube, or conical, such as an old lampshade. The length of the cord determines the inductance of the primary coil. The primary coil should have a low inductance, so you'll use comparatively few turns in making it. You can use non-continuous sections of wire for the primary coil, so that you can hook sections together as necessary to adjust the inductance on the fly. This completes the primary circuit. As with the primary coil, you're wrapping wire around a cylindrical shape. The secondary coil must have the same resonant frequency as the primary coil for the Tesla coil to operate efficiently. However, the secondary coil must be taller/longer than the primary coil because it has to have a larger inductance than the primary coil, and also to prevent any electrical discharge from the secondary circuit to strike and fry the primary circuit. If you lack the materials to make the secondary coil tall enough, you can compensate by building a strike rail (essentially a lightning rod) to protect the primary circuit, but this will mean that most of the Tesla coil's discharges will hit the strike rail and not dance in the air. The secondary capacitor, or discharge terminal, can be any round shape, with the 2 most popular being the torus (ring or donut shape) and the sphere. This completes the secondary circuit. Your secondary circuit should be grounded separately from the grounding for your household circuits supplying power to the transformer to prevent a stream of electric current from traveling from the Tesla coil to the ground for your household circuits and possibly frying anything plugged into those outlets. Driving a metal spike into the ground is a good way to do this. Chokes are simple, small inductors that keep the pulses created by the spark gap assembly from wrecking the power supply transformer. You can make one by winding thin copper wire around a narrow tube, such as a disposable ball point pen. Place the primary and secondary circuits next to each other, and connect the power supply transformer to the primary circuit through the chokes. Once you plug the transformer in, your Tesla coil is ready to run. If the primary coil is of sufficiently large diameter, the secondary coil can be set inside it.
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One-sentence summary -- Choose your power supply transformer. Make the primary capacitor. Design the spark gap assembly. Build the primary inductor coil. Connect the primary capacitor, spark gap assembly and primary inductor coil together. Build the secondary inductor coil. Make the secondary capacitor. Attach the secondary capacitor to the secondary inductor coil. Build the pulse chokes. Assemble the components.

Article: Take two of your four wider boards and place them together along the long edge. You'll end up with a square 9-1/2" wide, 12-1/2" long. Do this try run to make sure the cuts are even so that the boards come together to form an even rectangle. Repeat with the other two boards. These wider planks will be used to create your ends. Building this crate requires that you to adhere the two boards to make the ends. You have several options, including:   Biscuit joints. The remainder of the tutorial will be using biscuit joints. Dowels Wood glue. Know, however, that this will not make a very strong box. Mark where you're going to adhere the boxes together on both blanks. For this tutorial, you'll use biscuit joints, though you can use any method you're comfortable with. Make sure you have three wooden biscuits as well as a biscuit drill. Three biscuit joiners for each end should be more than enough. If you're in a pinch, two will do. Like up the drill with your pencil marks and make a clean, quick cut with the drill. Repeat for the other 5 marks. One solid line of glue along the entire edge should be fine. Make sure each biscuit is snug inside the hole. Simply slot the biscuits into the slots on the other piece. Let the wood glue dry and your ends are finished. Use a rubber mallet to hammer the ends gently, but firmly, together. For the cleanest results, use a set of clamps to hold the two boards together as the wood glue dries. Now that the ends of the crate are finished, you can decorate them  or add handles. You have several options:  Using a table drill with a wide 1-2" drill bit, "punch" holes into each end to make a handle. Simply drill 3-4 holes in a small line to cut a handle in the wood. Using a power drill and some small screws, install two metal handles, like those found on cabinets, into the ends. If adding these handles, wait until the end to install them, as you'll need to lay the box down flush to the ground to finish it.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Dry fit two of the wider boards together along the long side. Determine how you're going to adhere the two boards. With the wood pressed together, use a pencil to mark three spots for dowels or biscuit joints. Use your biscuit joint drill to make notches at each mark. Apply wood glue to all three biscuit holes on one of the planks. Insert a biscuit into each hole and firmly push it into place. Add a little more glue to the top of each biscuit, then attach the two boards together. Optional -- add handles to the ends.