Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Download the Uber app if you don’t have it already. Download the newest version of the Uber app if you have it already. Request a ride Swipe up from the bottom of the app to select your payment method. Ask your friend to look for a split-fare text message. Take payment restrictions into consideration.

Answer: On your iPhone or Android, search for Uber in the App Store or Google Play Store. Uber should be the top result. Hit “Get” to load the app onto your device. Open the App Store or Google Play Store on your iPhone or Android. Navigate to “Updates” and look to see if Uber is on your list of apps with a newer version available. If yes, click “Install.” Older versions of the Uber app have different methods of splitting a ride with a friend. By downloading the newest version, you can update your software and split a ride using this method. as normal. Open the Uber app, and type your destination into the “Where To” bar at the top of the screen. Then, swipe through the different types of Uber rides available, such as Economy, Premium, and Extra Seats, to select the type of ride you’d like to solicit. Only one person, either you or your friend, needs to solicit the ride on the Uber app. If you both call an Uber, two Ubers will show up. During the trip, tap the “Split Fare” option. Type in the name or phone number of the person you want to split your fare with.  Uber will search your contacts to help send the invitation to split the fare. If the person isn’t in your contacts, simply type in their phone number. The person you are splitting with will need an Uber account to accept the invitation. If you’re splitting the fare with multiple friends, add additional invitations to split the fare between you all as desired. Ask your friend to click the link in this message to open their Uber app. They should tap “Accept” on the request asking them to split the fare.  Your companions must accept the request to split the ride while the trip is still active rather than after it has ended. Note that there is a 25-cent USD fee each for all riders spitting a fare. If your friend does not accept the request or the payment method on their account has expired, you will be responsible for the cost of the full fare. Avoid using Apple Pay, which may not work on split fares. Note, too, that promotional codes will only work on your portion of a split-fare ride rather than the whole fare. Split-fare may not be available on all Uber options. If splitting your fare doesn’t work out, you can always have your friend pay you back in cash the old-fashioned way.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Find a reputable diamond appraiser in your area. Ask the right questions. Request a certificate of appraisal. Look at your certificate carefully — not all certificates are created equal. Get your stone registered.

Answer: Most diamond retailers hire their own gemologists and appraisers, but many consumers find it more desirable to request third party appraisal from an independent gemologist who specializes in the appraisal of diamonds. If you're going to invest in a stone, or are curious about a stone you already own, you'll want to be sure that the stone you've got is appraised accurately.  An appraisal involves two basic steps: first identifying and evaluating the stone in question, and then assigning value. When looking at independent appraisers, it would be ideal to select an appraiser with a Graduate Gemologist (GG) degree issued by a Gemological Institute in your country, who isn't involved directly in the sale of diamonds. This way, you can be sure that the science is sound. Aside from finding out whether or not the stone is fake, a good appraiser can answer a variety of questions about the quality of your stone to make sure that you're not getting ripped off. This is especially important if you've already purchased or inherited a stone. The gemologist should be able to tell you:   whether or not the stone is man-made or natural (Note: man-made diamonds are diamonds, just not "natural". See the section on detecting man-made diamonds for more detail.) whether or not the stone has been color-altered whether the stone has had permanent or temporary treatment added whether a stone matches the grading documentation provided by a retailer Whatever tests you choose to have performed, the best and most reliable way to tell if a diamond is real is to check the paperwork and speak to the gemologist or the appraiser. Certification and grading assures you that your stone has been "proven" real by experts. Proof is especially important if you're buying a stone sight-unseen, like from the Internet. Ask for a certificate. The certificate should be from a grading authority (e.g. GIA, AGSL, LGP, PGGL) or an independent appraiser who is affiliated with a professional organization (like the American Society of Appraisers) but not with any one retailer.   Certificates come with lots of information about your diamond, such as carat weight, measurements, proportions, clarity grade, color grade, and cut grade. Certificates may also come with information that you might not expect a jeweler to give you. They include:   Fluorescence, or the tendency of the diamond to give off faint glow when exposed to ultraviolet light.   Polish, or the smoothness of the surface.  Symmetry, or the degree to which the opposing facets mirror each other flawlessly. Once you know for sure that your diamond is real, whether through independent appraisal or grading lab, take your stone to a lab that can register and fingerprint your diamond. This will ensure you that you have your real stone, and that no one will be able to switch it out without your knowing.  Just like humans, every diamond is unique. New technology is allowing gemologists to quantify that uniqueness by producing a "fingerprint" of your gem. Registration usually costs less than $100, and can assist in insurance purposes. If a stolen diamond of yours with a fingerprint shows up in an international database, you should be able to retrieve it by showing documentation that proves it is yours.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Determine whether or not you should use gauze. Apply a layer of ointment. Dress the burn with gauze. Change the dressing

Answer: If your burn is first-degree and there are no broken blisters or open skin, you probably don’t need to apply a bandage. If you do have broken/exposed skin, or you have a second-degree burn, you should use a clean, sterile gauze wrap to prevent infection. As your burn heals, you will develop a new layer of skin. To prevent this new skin from sticking to your gauze bandage, it is important to always apply a thin layer or ointment between your skin and the gauze. You can use either antibiotic ointment, aloe vera gel, or a specially formulated burn ointment for this purpose. The ointment functions as a lubricating barrier between the burn and the gauze, so any of these ointments will work fine. The ointment need not contain antibiotics to be effective. After you apply the ointment, lightly cover the burn with 2-3 layers of gauze. Use medical tape to carefully keep the gauze in place. Be careful not to make the dressing too loose or too tight.  Do your best to keep the bandage dry. You can place a plastic bag over your bandage for bathing. If you get your bandage wet or dirty, change the gauze. 2 to 3 times daily. Around the same time every day, gently remove the gauze. Apply fresh ointment, and wrap the burn in a fresh dressing. If the gauze is sticking to the wound, dampen the gauze with sterile saline solution, and carefully remove it without damaging the skin underneath.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Check the chinch bug population. Vacuum the lawn. Buy or make a soap treatment. Spray the soapy water onto your lawn. Spread a flannel sheet over the soapy area. Repeat as needed. Encourage big-eyed bugs. Use other predatory insects. Try natural oil treatments. Sprinkle on diatomaceous earth.

Answer:
Before you begin, get an idea of how bad the problem is, and whether chinch bugs are the ones responsible. Cut the base off a coffee can and push it two inches (5 cm) into the turf. Pour in soapy water until it stays filled. Repeat in several areas of your lawn, especially at the border of yellow patches. Return after ten minutes and count chinch bugs floating on the surface:  5+ chinch bugs per can: a serious infestation. Continue to the next step for treatment. 2–4 chinch bugs per can: low-level infestation. Improve lawn health and test again later. Treat immediately if your lawn is in poor health. 0–1 chinch bug per can: no treatment necessary. If your lawn is in poor health, there is probably another cause. Alternatively, you might also take a close look at the lawn with a magnifying glass. This can be effective if you catch the chinch bug infestation early, before they've spread throughout your lawn:  Rake the lawn vigorously for 2 ft (60 cm) on all sides of the damaged area, toward the center. Vacuum the damaged area and surroundings. Water thoroughly. Insecticidal soaps are considered safe and appropriate for organic farming. A homemade soap treatment is actually more likely to damage your garden, but pure castille soap or mild Ivory or Dawn products (not extra-strength, grease-cutting, or anti-bacterial) are usually safe in a solution of 2½ tbsp dishwashing liquid per 1 gallon water (40 mL per 4 L). Mix in a clean sprayer, then shake or stir vigorously to combine. If using an insecticidal soap, dilute it following label instructions instead.  This method also works best if you catch the infestation early and use it to target small areas of lawn. If you have hard water in your area, the soap may fail to mix in, leaving a scum on the surface after the water settles. If this happens, make a new mix using distilled or bottled water instead.  Using a commercial insecticidal soap for chinch bugs is not legal in Canada, although this may just be an oversight. Homemade soap treatments are allowed.  Any soap can cause damage to aquatic life. Do not apply it where the water could run off into a storm drain. Drench the damaged area of your lawn using a spray bottle or hose attachment. For best results, do this on a cool, still morning or evening. In windy or hot weather (especially above 90ºF / 32ºC), there is a much higher chance of damaging your plants.  Try to avoid getting the soap in contact with nearby plants. Some trees and flowers are particularly vulnerable to soap damage, especially during times of drought.  If you're concerned about potential damage, test a corner of your lawn first and check on it after 24 hours. The chinch bugs will run for cover and get caught in the nap of the flannel. Return after ten or fifteen minutes to vacuum the pests off the sheet, or drown them by putting the sheet in a bucket of water. Monitor your lawn to check for more chinch bugs or expanding damage. If necessary, repeat the soap treatment once a week, or once every three or four days for severe infestations. The soap breaks down quickly, so your lawn should be back to normal soon. You may want to check your soil pH after treatment is finished, since soap is alkaline. These predators are not available for purchase, but they often arrive during an infestation to feed on chinch bugs. Providing a variety of flowering plants encourages them by giving them places to hide and feed. These predators look very similar to chinch bugs. They tend to be smaller and faster, with larger eyes. If you're still seeing a lot of chinch bugs but your lawn seems healthy, you might be misidentifying this predator species. Ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps all feed on chinch bugs or their eggs. While they do not target chinch bugs as effectively as big-eyed bugs, they are all widely available for purchase. Beneficial nematodes (roundworms) may also help. These are proven to control grubs, though there aren’t yet studies on their effectiveness for chinch bugs. You can buy beneficial nematodes at many home and garden stores. A neem oil product can control chinch bugs with little effect on plants and beneficial insects. Spray on the oil during cool, humid evenings, since it can break down or burn plants in direct sunlight. Some essential oils such as rosemary, lemongrass, cinnamon, or citrus oils can also help, but have not been studied as thoroughly. Dilute about 20 drops of oil in 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water, then spray onto your lawn. This can kill beneficial insects and earthworms and can take weeks or months to solve the problem, so use it only as a last resort. Wear safety goggles and a dust mask to avoid irritation, and try not to create too much dust. Wash your hands after applying.  Use garden-grade or food-grade DE only. Swimming pool grade DE is a more significant respiratory hazard. Non-heated DE containing less than one percent crystalline silica is the safest option.  Try applying DE with a bulb applicator. This will reduce the risk of getting the dust in your eyes, nose, and mouth. Apply DE to wet grass, as well, either after it rains or you’ve watered the lawn. This ensures that the small particles stick to the grass.