Write an article based on this "Wear safe clothing and eye protection. Wear ear protection if drilling regularly. Protect your lungs when necessary. Choose the correct drill bit. Fit the drill bit firmly into the chuck Clamp small pieces together. Handle the cord safely."
article: Avoid baggy clothing or dangling jewelry that could catch in the drill as you lean over it. Wear safety goggles or glasses that cover the sides of your eyes, to protect them from flying debris. A handheld electric drill produces about 90 decibels, which is just enough to cause hearing damage after prolonged exposure. Most cordless drills are quiet enough that hearing protection is not necessary. Impact drills (hammer drills) are the loudest handheld drills, producing over 100 dB. Hearing protection is recommended whenever using them. If the project kicks up a lot of dust, wear breathing protection. A dust mask is only good for short-term comfort. Use a respirator if you drill regularly or for long periods of time, or if the material you are drilling is a known respiratory hazard. Each respirator is rated for certain types of hazards. Make sure the one you use is suited to your project. Using a bit made from the wrong material can cause the bit or the material you're drilling to break. You can use a general-purpose bit on most wood; a masonry bit for stone, brick or concrete; an HSS (high speed steel) bit on most metals; and a carbide or diamond-tipped bit on very hard, brittle surfaces such as porcelain, glass, or glazed tiles. There are many specialized bit designs, so consult the drill manual or bit manufacturer if you're not sure which bit to use. When drilling a hole for a screw, there's an easy way to find the right size bit. Hold the screw up directly behind the bit. The bit should hide the shaft of the screw from view, but the screw threads should still be visible on both sides. . The chuck is the clamp in the "jaws" of the drill. This holds the drill bit in place as it spins. To replace a drill bit, make sure the drill is off (and unplugged if corded), then loosen the chuck by rotating it. Depending on the drill, you may be able to do this by hand, or you may need a chuck key located in a compartment in the top or handle of the drill. Insert the drill bit into the chuck, then tighten again. Make sure the bit is straight and secure, and remove the key before you turn on the drill.  Each chuck has a maximum size. Most drills made for home use in the United States have a chuck of size 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2". The shaft of the drill bit must be smaller than this size (but the tip can be larger).  Run the drill and watch the bit spin in the air. If it wobbles from side to side (or looks like a blurry cone), the bit is bent or not secured correctly. Discard bent bits, since they can easily break during drilling. If you are drilling into a small, loose piece, clamp it down firmly before you drill. Do not hold the piece down with one hand while drilling, as the drill could slip and injure you. If the drill has a cord, never leave it stretched across a pathway when not in use. Never pick up the drill by the cord. If you are drilling in a wet or muddy area, use a cordless drill instead. If you need to plug the drill into an extension cord, check the drill manual for the minimum wire gauge (or go with 16 gauge if you're not sure). Do not chain multiple extension cords together, use indoor extension cords outdoors, or use an adapter to plug a three-prong cord into a two-prong outlet.

Write an article based on this "Decide what kind of race you want to participate in. Sign up. Get your gear."
article: For your first triathlon, you may want to stick with a sprint distance. It's still hard! When you go to sign up, know what you're going in for; the distance varies greatly.   Sprint Triathlons: The shortest (though still arduous) varies in specific length, but many of them have around a 0.5-mile (0.8-kilometer) swim, 15-mile (24-kilometer) bike ride and 3-mile (5-kilometer) run.  The distances are not as concrete as longer triathlons that have set parameters.  The Olympic Triathlon: This is the most common triathlon out there. It's a 0.93 miles (1.5 kilometers) swim, a 24.8 miles (40 kilometers) bicycle route and a 6.2 miles (10 kilometers) run.  The Half Ironman: This one is a 1.2 miles (1.93 kilometers) swim, a 56 miles (90 kilometers) bike ride and a 13 mile (21 kilometers) run.  The Ironman Triathlon: This 2.4 mile (3.9 kilometer) swim, 112 mile (180 kilometer) bike ride and 26.2 mile (42.2 kilometer) marathon is probably the most famous. There are several websites and magazines that can use to search for and register for triathlons, including TriFind.com, Active.com, RaceTwitch.com, LAVA Magazine, and Triathlete Magazine (the magazines are great resources for finding out all sorts of interesting things about triathlons in general). Before you sign up for a race, you should look into the race details, which you can usually find on the triathlon’s website. For example, is the race extremely hilly or flat? Is the swim in a choppy ocean or flat lake? If you’re a new swimmer, you might want to choose a body of water that is easier to swim in. Some triathlons are off-road, which may appeal to you if you prefer to mountain bike rather than ride on a paved road To do well in a triathlon, you need decent gear. You could go running, biking and swimming in an old Peter Frampton t-shirt and gym shorts, but 10 minutes in and even your skin is going to start putting up a fight. Do yourself a favor and get the right equipment. You'll need:  Swim suit, goggles, and cap. If you will be swimming in cold water, consider a wetsuit.  A wetsuit will help keep you warm in cold water temperatures. Be aware that the tradeoff of wearing a wetsuit is that it may hinder your range of motion or swimming stroke.  If you’re going to wear a wetsuit in a race, be sure you practice in it ahead of time. A helmet that fits you and bicycle that is reliable. Road bikes, mountain bikes, and hybrids all work swell. A special triathlon bike or time trial bike isn't necessary, though if you have one, by all means, use it. Cycling shorts for training. Worn without undies, these will keep your woes from piling up (your legs hurt enough as it is -- why add your butt and skin into the mix?) Cycling shoes and clip-less pedals have their purposes, but you can make do without them just fine.  A water bottle. This will be your best friend. A nice pair of running shoes. Don't spend your entire paycheck on them, but do go to your local running store and get a pair that fit your feet properly.  The folks will insist on helping you and let them. They know what they're doing.

Write an article based on this "Cut your materials. Attach the webbing. Load your thread into your sewing machine. Attach the hardware. Attach your buckle. Slide your D ring onto the collar."
article:
You want your fabric and the webbing to be the lengths that you measured. Note: you want to make sure that you cut the fabric one inch longer and one inch wider than the webbing. You need the fabric to be bigger so that you can wrap the webbing around it.  Another general rule of thumb is that your webbing should be approximately 11 inches (27.9 cm) longer than the circumference of your dog's neck. But either 10 or 12 inches (25.4 or 30.5 cm) will work, too. Using a general household lighter, lightly burn the ends of your webbing. This will keep them from fraying. Using a low heat setting on your iron, iron the fabric to the webbing. Then fold the extra fabric over the webbing, creating a nice crease. You have now created the base for your collar. You can go back over this again with the iron to deepen the crease. Sew your way around the edges of the collar. If you do not have a sewing machine, use a needle and thread for this step. Essentially, you just need to make sure that your fabric is securely attached to the webbing. Use a simple stitch pattern. Just make sure to sew in a straight line. Sew along each side of the collar, making sure the webbing and fabric are firmly attached to one another. Using a pair of fabric (or kitchen scissors) snip any stray threads that are lingering. Slide the  strap adjuster through one end of the fabric, then pull through about an inch. It does not matter which end you choose. Sew the loose end of the fabric back onto the collar itself. Basically, you are sewing this piece of hardware onto a small loop.  When you are attaching the end of the fabric onto the main part of the collar, sew in an hourglass shape. Example: stitch in a straight line across the bottom of the "tail" end. Then sew a diagonal line up, then sew a line across the top, then a diagonal line back down to your starting point.  Clip your stray threads. Now your strap adjuster is neatly attached to the collar. There should be two pieces. Place the curved side of the clasp through the end of the collar. Slide the end up through your strap adjuster, which makes a loop. Secure each side of the clasp to the collar by sewing small, sturdy loops around the clasps. You should have a collar, with a longer tail at the end. Slide on the other piece of your buckle, and pull about 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) of the collar through the buckle. Pull the end of the fabric through the adjuster and then sew the loose end to the back of the collar.  Use the hour glass stitch one the fabric on each side of your D ring. This will ensure that it does not slide around on your collar. Now your D ring is attached. Clip any stray threads.