INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Sanding is generally considered the best way to remove stains from suede. An emery board, a common type of nail file, is convenient and will also work well for this method. An emery board is essentially a small strip of fine-grit sandpaper glued to a piece of cardboard. You can buy inexpensive emery boards from most grocery stores, pharmacies, and beauty shops. While sandpaper is relatively safe for suede, it may not be right for all items. Some processing and dyeing methods may make suede more prone to damage from friction. To make sure sanding won't ruin the suede, do the following before tackling your stain:  Pick a small, inconspicuous spot on your item to test. This should be in an area that is hidden from view during normal use, such as the inside of a jacket. If you can find no such spot, pick one that is less visible, such as the inner side of a shoe rather than the outer side. Gently rub the sandpaper on the spot. Go back and forth a few times. Check for damage. It's normal to see some loose fibers after sanding suede. These can be shaved off with a razor. However, if there is any discoloration or major changes in texture, you should try a different cleaning method. Gently go over the stain with your sandpaper. Make small circular motions all over the stained area. Apply only the lightest amount of pressure possible. Be careful not to abrade the fabric. The stain should gradually wear away. It's possible that sanding alone will not remove the stain. If there is still a stain that won't get any lighter, stop buffing and try a solvent method:  Soak a soft bristle brush with either white vinegar or rubbing alcohol. Gently scrub the stain, being careful not to abrade the suede. If the brush dries out before you've completely lifted the stain, soak it again with your solvent of choice. Once the stain is lifted, finish up by brushing the area with a clean toothbrush.

SUMMARY: Obtain a small piece of fine-grit sandpaper. Do a spot test. Buff away the stain. Follow up with white vinegar or rubbing alcohol.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Remove any debris or vegetation that will be a problem during construction or future use, and grade the soil to a suitable elevation. If you are going to leave an earth floor in the addition, compacting the soil probably will not be necessary. Make sure the floor material will withstand expected weather conditions year-round. for the supporting posts. Check the placement before, during, and after you dig. The distance between posts depends on the load of the rafters, roof, and any future snow load. Check your local building code for guidelines.  Measure the distance between the wall to which you will fasten the lean-to and the starting corner. You can start by pulling string lines along the planned addition. Use the 3-4-5 rule to confirm the outer corners are square before you dig the holes. If the outer wall is not parallel to the shed, the rafters will be difficult to place. Secure each post as follows:  Plumb two adjacent sides of the post to confirm the post is level. Secure those two sides with temporary diagonal cross bracing, using two 1" x 4" boards. Drive a wooden stake into the ground next to each board. Fasten each 1" x 4" board to a stake and to the post using easily removed nails or screws. Once the end posts are in place, repeat with the intermediate posts. For best results, mix a "post mix" concrete and pour it into the post hole. Leave the bracing in place for at least 24 hours or until the concrete sets, then remove it. If your lean to is small and your area does not experience strong wind or severe storms, you may be able to backfill the post holes with dirt instead. This line will determine the bearing height of the rafters. Start by marking the end posts, and use either a plain line or a chalk line to mark the intermediate posts. Draw a notch about 1-1/2" (about 4 cm) deep into your post. Use a circular saw set to a 1-1/2" (about 4 cm) depth to cut into the post at the base of the notch. Set the circular saw to maximum depth. Measure out 1-1/2" (about 4 cm) on the top side of your post and cut into the top of the post on the same side as you made the first cut. When your saw blade meets the first cut, the wood block should fall off, leaving the notch for your nailers. If necessary, finish the cut with a hand saw or a reciprocating blade saw. Repeat the process with each post. If you choose to, you may simply nail directly into the side of the post, but doing so places all the weight on your fasteners. You could also use metal hangers or brackets to attach the top beam or plate to the posts, using heavy gauge TECO nails. If the nailer is not long enough to span the total length of your shed, make sure any joints are set against a post to ensure maximum bearing potential for the nailer. Nail the nailer into place, making sure the spacing between your posts remains correct. Remember to nail everything solidly as you install it, so you will not overlook a critical connection before moving to the subsequent step in the project.

SUMMARY: Lay out the area within the footprint of your addition. Dig your post holes Drive each end post into a hole with a sledgehammer. Backfill the post holes with concrete. Use a line level or builder's level to mark a bench elevation (a reference grade) on each post. Notch the top of your posts so the rafter nailer or rafter supporting joist will rest on the notch. Set the nailer on the notches. Attach any purlins you plan to use on the outboard side of your lean-to.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Place about 1/4 teaspoon (0.1 g) of the threads into a small skillet. Turn the burner to medium-high and shake the pan every once in a while. Cook the saffron until the strands look dry and dark. Then transfer them to a small bowl. Use your fingers to crumble the saffron and put it aside. If you prefer, you can crush the saffron threads in a mortar with a pestle.

SUMMARY: Cook 1 pinch of saffron threads for 3 to 4 minutes and crumble them.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: All you need here are a few simple supplies to make your own Peter Pan Hat. You can use whatever kind of paper you want, but green construction paper will get you the best look.  Green construction paper that’s at least 12” x 18”. Pencil. Scissors. Glue. Red feather. Ruler.

SUMMARY:
Get your supplies.