Turn the skateboard over so it is resting on the deck, with the wheels facing up. Use a ½ inch or 13mm socket wrench to twist and remove the axle nuts on the outer sides of the skateboard wheels. Keep all wheel materials (nuts, washers, etc.) together in one place so you can easily find and attach them later. Once you have removed the wheels from the skateboard, use the metal rod to which the wheels were attached (called the truck axle), to pry the bearings from the wheels. Position the wheel on the end of the truck axle so the metal rod is slightly inserted through the wheel, to the first bearing. Allow the axle to catch on the bearing, and pull the top of the wheel away from the board. This leverage movement is similar to using a bottle opener to remove a bottle top. Once the bearing is removed from one side of the wheel, use the same prying technique to remove the other bearing on the other side of the wheel. Repeat this process for all of the wheels. Keep the wheel bearings and the wheels separate from each other.  If you can manage to remove the bearings in this way, you can also try using a screwdriver to pry out the bearings. Simply hold on to the sides of the wheel out in front of you, insert the tip of the screwdriver in the front of the wheel, and pull the screwdriver to the side to release the bearing.  When you remove the bearings from the wheels, a bearing spacer will fall out from the center of the wheel. Keep this in a safe place so you can reassemble the wheel and bearings later. Use a rag to wipe the surface of all the wheels. Use your fingers to loosen any rocks or gravel that may be stuck in the wheels. In a large container such as a bucket or bowl, create a mixture of water (approximately ½ a gallon) and a couple teaspoons of dishwashing soap. Stir this mixture until the water gets sudsy. Add all the wheels to the soapy water, and allow them to soak for approximately 10 minutes. Be sure that you are only soaking the wheels of your skateboard, not the bearings. Remove the wheels from the soapy water and use a soft rag or a soft bristled toothbrush to gently scrub the wheels and remove any dirt and debris. Once all the wheels have been gently cleaned, use a paper towel to completely dry the wheels. Because dirt can get trapped in any small nook and cranny, be sure to clean the inner part of the wheel along with the outer surface.
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One-sentence summary -- Remove the wheels from the board. Remove the bearings from the wheels. Remove any embedded material. Soak the wheels in soapy water. Wipe down the wheels.


This looks like a gray gear icon located on your Home screen.  The switch should turn green. This option will be under the AUTOMATIC DOWNLOADS heading. It will enable your iPhone to automatically download updates for existing apps on your device. The switch should turn green. It will let your iPhone use your carrier’s mobile data plan to automatically download app updates. Your iPhone will still use Wi-Fi to download updates if you’re connected to a Wi-Fi network. Cellular data will only be used when you don't have an available Wi-Fi internet connection.
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One-sentence summary -- Open your iPhone’s Settings. Scroll down and tap iTunes & App Store. Slide the Updates switch to On position. Slide the Use Cellular Data switch to On position.


This will cause many early plastics to release a distinct smell. This step is not recommended for broken items, or items with delicate non-plastic attachments. If the item is dirty, rub it with a cloth first to remove the dirt. If you have a sensitive nose, you may notice the smell simply from rubbing.  A smell of formaldehyde means the plastic is Bakelite or Catalin. You might recognize the smell from preserved animal specimens in biology labs.  A rotten milk smell comes from Galalith (French Bakelite).  Camphor smell (a pungent evergreen or old-fashioned mothball odor), comes from celluloid. If there is no smell, it is probably Lucite, but could be a different plastic protected by a finish or paint. If the smell doesn't match any of the above descriptions, it's possible the piece is a modern "Fakelite" imitation product. Use this method if the hot water test was inconclusive. You may use Simichrome, which can also be used for polishing, or Formula 409, which can cause damage but is a more accurate test. Either way, take a tiny dab of the material with a cotton swab, and rub it against an inconspicuous corner of the plastic that has been dried and rubbed clean of dirt. If the cotton swab comes away yellow or yellow-brown, the material is probably Bakelite. Otherwise, you may need to take it to an antique shop for identification.  Wash off the material with mild soap and water, then dry immediately. Some black Bakelite objects, or Bakelite that has been recently re-worked, may not respond to this test. Catalin is essentially the same material as Bakelite, and can be cleaned and polished using the same methods. In fact, since Catalin does not contain the pulpy "filler" materials used in Bakelite production, it can generally stand up better to slightly abrasive treatments, such as metal polish or sanding. If your object could use a stronger polish, check whether it is Catalin using these guidelines:  Catalin was often produced in bright colors. Bakelite is usually brown or black unless it has been painted, but there are exceptions.  Most "Bakelite" jewelry is actually made from Catalin. Celluloid is the only common early plastic that can be damaged by water, but if you dry it immediately after the water test, it will likely be unharmed. Use a soft cotton cloth or swab to dry the plastic, since celluloid can be easily scratched. A barely dampened cotton swab can remove small spots of discoloration, if dried immediately afterward, but further cleaning and repair may require an expert. Galalith is a white, glossy plastic made from milk casein and formaldehyde. Dust it with a soft cloth, but avoid using chemical cleaners. If it is severely scratched, take it to an antique expert for repair. First, rinse or scrub off dirt on the lucite surface. Use plastic polish to buff or repair scratches in this clear, acrylic plastic. To repair severe damage, you may need to use a polishing wheel. Novus brand plastic polish is likely the best-known. Use Novus 1 for buffing, Novus 2 for light to moderate scratches, and Novus 3 for deep scratches.
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One-sentence summary -- Run the item under hot tap water for 15–30 seconds. Rub with a test chemical. Treat Bakelite and Catalin as described in other sections. Dry and clean celluloid. Clean Galalith. Clean Lucite.


In order to find the link for a website's specific page, you must go to the page first. Tap or click the webpage's address at the top of the web browser. Doing this should highlight the address. To do so:   Mobile - Tap Copy when prompted. You may have to tap and hold the address or tap Select All first on some phones.  Desktop - Press Ctrl+C (Windows) or ⌘ Command+C (Mac) while the link is highlighted. You can post links in any text field (e.g., a status box on Facebook, a Microsoft Word document, your phone's messaging app, etc.). To do so:   Mobile - Tap and hold the text field, then tap Paste when prompted.  Desktop - Click the text field, then press Ctrl+V (Windows) or ⌘ Command+V (Mac). Once you've posted your link, tap or click it to make sure that it takes you to the correct location. The link will usually change color once it's ready to be selected.
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One-sentence summary --
Go to the webpage to which you want to link. Select the webpage's address. Copy the address. Find a place to post the link. Paste your link. Test your link.