Q: Rats that have entered a building do need to be removed before they can cause any damage, and the easiest way to catch them is with traps. There are many styles of traps out there, depending on your intention:  Live traps are the most environmentally friendly and humane, because they don’t kill the rats. Instead, they trap living rats so you can relocate them.  Glue traps are extremely inhumane. Animals caught in them often cause themselves severe injuries trying to escape, and they usually die of starvation or dehydration.  Snap traps are a less inhumane trap for dealing with rats when you intend to kill the animal. They are spring-loaded and designed to kill the rat quickly. Use a metal or quality plastic one that can be reused. Electrical traps are also less inhumane than glue traps, but are also designed to kill the animal. Trap placement is very important when you're trying to get rid of rats. Once they’ve established themselves in a building, rats will tend to follow the same paths over and over again, so if you don’t get the traps in these locations, you may not catch them. Place your traps:  Close to where you’ve found any droppings.  Along the base of walls, at a 90-degree angle to the walls, and with the baited end closest to the wall.  Out of the way of people, children, pets, and other wildlife.  Two or three in a row, especially with spring traps, to stop the rat from just jumping over it. If you have pets or children in the home, you should take extra precautions to prevent them from getting hurt with a trap. Instead of leaving the traps out and exposed, place them inside a lidded cardboard box. Cut a square or round hole (about three to four inches) in either side of the box, and then place the box where you would normally put the trap. When you bait a snap trap, be sure the food is securely attached to the mechanism that trips the spring, and use the least bait possible to prevent the rat from just running off with it. There are many different foods you can use to bait a trap to catch a rat, but some of their favorites include:  Peanut butter (either mix it with oats or spread it over a cotton ball)  Pumpkin seeds  Apples, bananas, or other fruit Meat, and especially bacon  Vegetables, and especially corn Some traps, like a live or electric trap, you can set right away. But with snap traps, you may have to bait the trap once or twice before actually setting it. Rats can be quite cautious of new things in their environment, so if they set off a trap that’s baited and set without being caught, they won’t go near another one in the future. You can get them used to the trap by baiting it a few times without setting it, and allowing them to eat the bait.  Once you’ve baited the trap a couple times and the rat has eaten the food, set the trap. For some snap traps, you'll just have to pull the lever back to set them, but with others you have to pull back the bar attached to the spring, then wedge the pin into the metal trigger. Never touch a wild rat without the protection of gloves, even if the animal is dead. With live traps, take the entire trap to a nearby field or forest, open the trap and let the animal escape.  To deal with a dead rat, wrap the body in two plastic bags, sealing each separately. You can then dispose of the body according to local by-laws, such as by burying it or throwing it in the garbage.  If you happen to find a live rat caught it a glue trap, you can free the animal by massaging cooking oil or mineral oil around the glue where the animal is stuck. Eventually the oil will remove the glue’s stickiness, and the animal can then be freed and transferred to a shoe box for relocation.
A: Select a trap style. Place the traps around the building. Keep pets and kids away from set traps. Bait the traps. Set the traps. Release or remove the rats you catch.

Article: Being outside for the day often means tanning (voluntarily or involuntarily) so showing skin has become not only socially acceptable, but actually encouraged.  Crop tops, cut-offs, cutouts, bathing suits, bandeaus and  bustiers are all popular. Outdoor festivals are almost always in the thick of summer, when it is hot and sunny. Always bring and wear sunscreen religiously. You don't want to get sunburned. Prepare for rain. Always remember to bring a poncho or rain jacket to avoid being soaked all day. If you are revealing a large amount of skin on top or bottom, even out it out with a more conservative counter-part.  Pair a cropped top with a maxi skirt, or cut-offs with a baggy button-up. Using a "flowing" top or bottom creates a chic look without looking too conservative. Loose flowing components to your clothes will be more comfortable in hot weather. Try a one piece instead. Rompers, dresses, and jumpsuits are very popular music festival choices. This "balances" your outfit for you since most designers dance on the "conservative" and "revealing" line. Patterned one-pieces add depth to an outfit. Floral patterns, abstract patterns and animal prints play into the indie look. Sandals or flip flops are fashionable summer footwear.  The important thing is to play into the summer look (gladiator sandals, chunky heel or jeweled flip flops). You can also look chic in something more structured (loafers, boots, or high fashion sneakers). Keep in mind that if it rains it will be muddy. Plan to bring several changes of shoes, including a pair or sneakers for wet days. You should choose accessories that complement your outfit and hot sunny weather.  Big floppy hats and over-sized or wafer sunglasses will help you protect yourself from the sun. Scarves, cross side bags, dangling earrings, and layered necklaces also pull together the look. Natural or neutral accessories are best. Wear your hair down, pulled back in a curled ponytail, in a messy bun, or up in a cute braid. Make-up should be minimal and natural. Make sure you wear sunblock to protect your skin from the sun.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Choose a casual outfit that shows some skin. Balance out your outfit. Complete the look with the right shoes. Throw on some accessories. Keep your hair and makeup styles minimal.

Q: Training an adult pug requires a different approach than what you’d use with a puppy. Your adult pug may have had some previous training, but it may not have been completed or consistently reinforced. Ask the rescue group or animal shelter from where you adopted your pug about what types of additional training he will need.  Older dogs are calmer and tend to have longer attention spans than puppies.  Adult dogs are more set in their ways (including bad habits) and may take longer to train. Be patient with your adult pug during the training process. If your adult pug was mistreated by his previous owner, he may be extra sensitive to yelling or harsh punishment. As you train your adult pug, always keep a calm temper, including when he has an accident or doesn’t follow a command. If you have other household members, have them all train your adult pug. By involving everyone, your pug will feel like he’s part of your pack, which will help him feel safe and loved. To prevent him from getting confused from working with different people, make sure everyone uses the same commands, says the commands in the same tone of voice, and does not deviate from the training process (e.g., letting him get away with bad behavior).
A:
Identify his training needs. Be gentle with your adult pug. Involve your whole family in the training process.