In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Nests are designed by queens and built by workers in early spring, and the colonies grow throughout the late spring and early summer until reaching peak size somewhere around August. The end of summer also finds wasps at their most aggressive and protective, making it a dangerous time to try to get rid of them.  Early in the year, the nests are smaller and more manageable. Get in the habit of patrolling the area around your home for wasp nests in the early season, before they've grown to dangerous sizes. If you kill the queen, there will also be no risk of the nest being rebuilt that year. If it's late in the season, it's probably best to wait it out and let the frost kill off the pests in the next 30-60 days. Then, you can knock the empty nests down to ensure that they won't be repopulated next year. Anytime you go hunting around for wasps, you need to keep yourself well protected. You probably don't need a full-on chemical protection suit, but taking a few steps in precaution can keep you from coming home with nasty stings if you get swarmed.  You need to wear thick, long sleeves and pants, heavy gloves, a hood that covers as much of your face as possible, and eye protection. Even if it's super hot outside, don't skimp on the layers and the thickness of the clothing. If you get swarmed by wasps, it's important to not over-think it: run as quickly as possible away from the wasps. While some people report that swinging articles of clothing or turning abrupt corners can be effective at shaking a swarm, the best way to get away is to run as fast as possible and get inside. If you're having a consistent problem with wasps in your area, it can be quite frustrating. But don't keep swatting them one at a time. Get rid of them at the source and get them away from your home. Find the nest and kill the nest and your problem will solve itself. Yellow-jacket nests are quite small, while wasp nests will be somewhat larger and more bulbous, like a papery football.  Wasps tend to build their nests in loose piles of wood, along rafters, or in garbage cans that are seldom used.  Check under porch gaps, and anywhere in your home with a large void or construction gap. Sometimes, nests can be buried behind walls, making them quite difficult to get to. Use a stethoscope or a water glass to hold up to the wall and listen for the buzzing. It might be necessary to drill into the wall to apply insecticide. When you find the nest, it's important to get rid of it as quickly and safely as possible, and the most effective technique is using insecticide spray to kill the wasps at the source.  Some commercial aerosol sprays are available that you can apply from as far as 20 feet away, keeping you a safe distance from the nest. The ECO PCO line of sprays are made of botanical compounds, making them somewhat safer than chemical-based sprays. Alternatively, residual insecticide sprays like D-Fense SC and Cyper WP can be applied to the area immediately surrounding the nest, killing the wasps indirectly, from a safe distance. Always defer to the manufacturer directions when applying any kind of pesticide spray. Insecticide dust is an effective long-term strategy for dealing with wasps, maintaining its efficacy for up to six months, and making it deter wasps for even longer in some cases. It's easy to use and widely available.  The brands Tempo Dust, Sevin Garden Dust, or Dusters are both effective brands of using on wasp nests. Apply dust around the nest opening first thing in the morning, applying about a quarter cup loosely in the general area. Don't clog the opening, so the wasps can move freely and spread the dust around independently.  One of the dangers of using dust is what makes it effective: it stays dangerous for a long time. If you have pets or small children, applying dust to a nest near your home might be dangerous. Use caution. It may be somewhat primitive, but with some good aim, plain soapy water is a somewhat effective way of destroying a nest and killing off the wasps with household supplies.  Mix about a third of a cup of dish soap into a half gallon of water and load it into as powerful a spray applicator as you can find. You want to be able to stand fairly far away from the nest as you spray it with sudsy water. Shake the sudsy water to get it will integrated, then spray the soapy water liberally around the opening of the nest and get out of dodge. Reapply this soapy water several times over the next few days. One effective natural way of eradicating wasps is to combine natural wood smoke and water to get the wasps out of the area. When wasps sense fire in the area, they'll vacate the nest and allow you to destroy it safely.  Use a small grill to build a tiny and contained wood fire safely underneath the nest. Let the smoke rise steadily for an hour or two, while the wasps leave. Come back to the area with a hose and spray the nest down, knocking it down with a stick if necessary, destroying it.
Summary: Get rid of nests early in the year. Don some armor. Find the hive. Spray the nest with pesticide spray. Use wasp-repellant dust. Use soap and water. Use smoke and water.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: This could be a long, fallen branch or an extension ladder. If the angle of the item you lay against the tree is more gradual, the cat may be more comfortable climbing down it. Once again, give the cat time to decide to use this new escape route. Make sure the new escape route is really secure against the tree and then walk away. Throw a rope over the branch the cat is sitting on and then tie a cat carrier to one of the ends of the rope. Make sure the door or top of the carrier is open and then pull it up to the cat with the rope.  You can also put some favorite food with a strong smell inside the carrier. Wait for the cat to go inside. Be patient. If, after several hours, the cat does not go into the carrier, then you may need to climb up and put the cat inside of the carrier. Once the cat goes into the carrier, gently but quickly lower the carrier to the ground. This method is only suitable for when you can't quite reach the cat but it's almost close enough to grasp and if you have run out of other options, as it could traumatize the cat and has a greater risk of allowing the cat to fall and injure itself. Tie a towel firmly around the head of a broom. From a secure position, such as from the ground or from a secure position on a sturdy ladder, poke the cat with the broom enough to destabilize it. As the cat wobbles, its instincts will cause it to grab at the towel with its front claws, hooking them into the towel.  Pull steadily before the cat has time to let go, and it will attempt to hold both the tree and the towel with its claws. With luck, the well-hooked front claws will hold the towel more firmly than the rear claws can hold the tree, and your broom will have a cat holding onto it grimly with all claws. Be ready to support the weight of broom plus a writhing cat. Quickly slide your hand up the broom. Grab the cat by the scruff before it can climb back into the tree, making sure of course that you maintain your own grip on tree or ladder, or pass the broom and cat to a helper. While most fire departments will not come out to rescue a cat, local arborists will sometime do it. He or she will probably charge you a small fee to come out and rescue the cat, but it may be worth it if the arborist can get the cat down safely.
Summary:
Lay something against the tree that the cat can climb down. Try sending a cat carrier up the tree. Use a towel and broom to get the cat out to the tree. Call a local arborist for help.