Q: Find the filters on your spa system. They may be located under a lid on a corner, or inside of a canister on the side of the spa. Remove the filters by turning them and pulling them out of their compartments.  Before you start flushing and cleaning the spa, you need to take out the filters so they don’t collect or catch any of the grime, mildew, mold, or any other gunk that comes out of the pipes. If you can’t find your filters, check the owner’s manual to locate them. Add a spa line flush product into the spa water according to the instructions on the packaging. Turn the jets on high and allow the water to circulate for 10 minutes so the cleaner can get inside all of the inner workings of the spa to break up and remove any of the gunk and sludge that’s built up in the pipes.  The warm water can cause all kinds of mold, mildew, and bacteria to build up in the plumbing lines of your spa. You can find line flush at spa and pool supply stores, pool supply stores, and online. Turn off the jets and cover the top of the spa to make sure that additional contaminants won’t get in. It’s also important that nobody can swim in the water while the line flush is in it. Wait a full 12 hours to allow the cleaner to remove the residue from the plumbing lines.  Make sure nobody tries to enter the spa while the lines are being flushed. Turn off the spa to allow the line flush to soak. Remove the cover and drain your spa according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If there is a build-up of gunky residue at the bottom of your spa, rinse it out with fresh water to remove it. Refill the spa with fresh clean water until it’s completely full.  Some spas may have a built-in pump that you can use to drain the water. If your spa has a drain plug, pull it to allow the water to drain. Add the clean water filters back to their original locations by sliding them into place. Make sure they’re securely installed so they can properly filter your spa water. Replace the lid if there is one so the filter area is covered. Use pH test strips to check the level of the water by dipping them into the liquid and comparing the color of the reaction to the color code on the box. It’s important that the pH be slightly basic so the water doesn’t react negatively with the bromine.  You can adjust the pH of your spa water by adding baking soda to raise the pH or by adding muriatic acid  to lower the pH. Look for pH test strips and muriatic acid at pool supply stores and online.
A: Remove the spa filters to avoid contamination. Flush your spa to clean the plumbing lines before you drain it. Cover the spa and allow it to sit for 12-14 hours. Drain and refill your spa with fresh water. Replace the water filters into the spa. Test the pH levels to make sure they’re between 7.2 and 7.6.

Q: Your hair should completely dry in the clamps. Don't take them out while your hair is still wet, or the waves will fall out.
A: Let your hair dry.

Q: Ingredients for candles may be purchased at arts and crafts store.  Quantities for each ingredient will vary, dependent on the size and amount of candles you plan to make. However, half a pound of wax equals to 10-12 small candles, and candles only require one wick each. You should check your mould tray for a point of reference if you're unsure about quantity.  Paraffin wax. Half a pound of wax should serve you well for a home set of candles. If you're feeling thrifty however, you can melt down old candles into fresh wax. Drops of essential oil. These are essential, and can be used if you want to give your candles a scent. Only a couple of drops per candle will be needed to get the scent. Baking tray mould. The size of your mould will determine how large the candles will be. Small muffin candles will burn for approximately one hour. Large muffin tray candles will go on for about three. Tart moulds and cookie cutters can be used as well for this, so long as there's a moulded slot for a candle to settle in. Pretabbed candle wicks. Making sure to get pretabbed wicks can take some of the hassle out of adding them into the wax. Dye chips. Dye chips are specifically made for use in homemade candles. They're small, but effective, so you'll probably only need around one per candle. You can eyeball the effects of the dye chips as you add them. Dye chips will give your candles a pleasant colour. One dye chip per pound of wax should be enough to ensure a bold colour. It's important to add your dye while the candles are heated. That way, they'll be able to disperse throughout the wax with stirring. Dye chips are designed specifically for use in DIY candle-making, so they tend to mix with wax very well.  Mix it in with a wooden spoon to ensure the dye is consistent in the candles. Essential oils are added for the sake of scent, and should be added to the pot as soon as you've turned off the heat. Paraffin wax needs to be 150 degrees Fahrenheit in order to be ready for pouring. If you have a thermometer at hand, place it in the wax and gauge the temperature. Check the consistency periodically. You can do this by placing a wooden spoon in the boiler pitcher and gently stirring the wax around. If you don't have a thermometer, wait until a thin film forms around the edges of your pitcher. If you don't coat your mould with cooking spray or petroleum jelly before hand, your candles will put up a hassle when you try to take them out. Because you'll ultimately be taking them up held by their fragile wick, you'll want to minimize that resistance early on. Excessive spray isn't necessary. Just make sure the bottom of each mould slot is evenly sprayed. Being thorough at this stage prevents hassle later down the road. Once the wicks have set, candles take up to two hours to harden completely. Set them aside, and occupy your time with something else while they settle.
A:
Gather your ingredients. Introduce dye chips while heating. Heat the wax. Coat your tray with cooking spray. Allow the candles time to harden.