5 cm) of water a week. In most climes, this is enough to keep your plants going strong. However, if you live in a particularly dry climate you can use flood-style irrigation every 2-3 weeks.  Remove the weeds so they don't steal your water; a lack of water can stunt your plants, and weeds will use the nutrients you took all that trouble to dig into your soil. A drip system is nice but if you don't want to do that, simple trenches between the hills will help you get the water where you want it once the vines start getting rampant. Watering in the early morning allows the water to evaporate; this is good because water standing on leaves can create good conditions for disease. On hot days, it is normal for leaves to wilt a little bit during the heat of the day, but they will often firm back up in the evening. That said, if leaves are wilted early in the day before it is too hot, your plants need more water. Once your plants have put on a few leaves (this is called "germinating"), cull all but two or three at the very most per hill, leaving only the most vigorous plants. There simply isn't enough room for all of them to grow to adulthood. At this stage, you may want to set up row covers to protect your little plants from insects and make sure they grow to full capacity. In the US, squash bugs and squash vine borers can do in a vine in no time. Dark gray squash bugs lurk under the leaves and suck the plant's juices. Borers are a caterpillar or a small moth that bores into the stems, killing the stem beyond the damage. Watch for their eggs under the leaves and along the ground. If you live in Europe you don't have those insects but other things can still damage your plants, so be vigilant!  Floating row covers can help with this problem, though you'll have to remove them when your female flowers show up so they can be pollinated. Aphids can be controlled with soap spray or water and as a last result, use neem. "Powdery mildew" is another culprit, though non-bug, that you need to look out for. In the second half of their growing, spray the plants with a mixture of one part milk to six parts water every two weeks to fend off this disease In about a month, you can add a side dressing of fertilizer to the vines – about 10 inches on either side. Don't dig too close or you'll damage the roots they send down at each leaf node. They won't be fully ripe for about 80 to 110 days, depending on the variety you've planted. There's still plenty of time for them to absorb fertilizer. By this point, you should start seeing flowers. The first flowers are usually male and will make no fruit, but they do train the bees. The female flowers are fewer and recognizable by the swelling below the base of the flower. This swelling is your future squash. If they don't form into squash, you may not have enough bees to pollinate them. You'll have to pollinate them yourself by going out early in the morning and taking the central pollen-covered organ in the male flower and brushing it all over the counterpart in the female flowers. You'll know if the pollination was a success if the flower wilts and that swelling grows visibly in the next couple of days. At this point, all you have to do is keep your vines watered and weeded, and watch out for bugs or disease. You don't want wet soil all the time; during a warm summer without rain you'll probably water every few days or so. Watch for wilted leaves, that means they definitely need a drink. As your squash begin to grow, you can carefully put a bed of straw under them if you like, to keep them off the ground and free of blemishes and rot. However, rot shouldn't be a problem if you don't overwater or the squash isn't forming in a wet depression.
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One-sentence summary -- Give your plants about 1 inch (2. Thin your plants. Watch out for bugs and disease. Consider adding more fertilizer. Look for flowers. Watch the swelling grow. Consider using straw underneath developing squash.

Article: The glass doors on a cast iron stove often become entirely blackened with built up soot and smoke, and can be difficult to clean. The best product to use for the task is a glass cleaning solution that has been specifically designed to clean wood stove front doors. Spray the product onto a couple of old rags, and use the wet rags to wipe the glass door clean.  This product should be available at your local hardware store. If you’re having trouble finding it, speak to the sales staff and ask for their assistance. Glass cleaning solution contains ammonia, so be careful not to get any in your eyes. Do not inhale the solution. If you’d prefer to use a non-toxic cleaning solution for the glass door, find or purchase an empty spray bottle. Mix two parts water to one part clear vinegar, and then add a squirt of regular dish soap. Shake the bottle to mix the ingredients. Then, you can spray the vinegar solution directly onto the glass, and rub it clean using old rags. You can find all of these products at your local grocery store or drug store. If you’re already at a hardware store shopping for the other necessary materials, you may be able to find vinegar and a spray bottle there as well. Creosote (deposits of tar) will build up at the top of the chimney, and if left long enough, can catch fire and cause a chimney fire. To prevent this and to keep the top of the chimney clean, you’ll need to access the top of the flue via the roof. Remove the chimney cap, and, using a stiff-bristled chimney brush, scrape all of the creosote and deposits of ash and soot. Also brush any built-up creosote off of the chimney cap.  You’ll need to climb up on the roof for this step, so take the necessary safety precautions. Have a second person help you by stabilizing the base of the ladder while you’re climbing up. Avoid standing or walking near the edges of the roof, and don’t climb up on a windy day.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Purchase a glass cleaning solution. Clean with a mixture of vinegar, water, and soap. Clean the chimney and chimney cap.