When fixing the flapper and adjusting the water level in the tank doesn’t fix a running toilet, it usually means there's a problem with the fill valve. The solution for this is replacing the fill valve. To do this, you must work with an empty tank:  Turn off the water to the toilet. Flush the toilet. Use a sponge to absorb remaining water from the tank. Soak the sponge, wring it out in the sink, and continue until there's no water left in the tank. On the outside of the toilet, there will be a water supply line running into the tank. To disconnect this, unscrew the locknut securing the line in place. Turn the screw counterclockwise to loosen it. You may need a pair of pliers to loosen the locknut. Once the supply line has been disconnected, you'll see a lock nut attaching the fill valve assembly to the toilet on the outside of the tank. Remove this by using an adjustable wrench to turn the lock nut to the left (counterclockwise). Once the lock nut is off, you can pull the old fill valve assembly out from the toilet tank.  You may want to take the old assembly to the hardware store when you purchase the replacement. That way, you can be sure to get the right size and style fill valve for your toilet. Alternatively, you can purchase a universal fill valve. You can replace older ball float fill valves with more modern float cup style ones. Insert the new fill valve into the same place in the tank. Fit the valve into the hole in the tank where the water supply line comes in. Hook up the water supply line. Tighten the nut in a clockwise direction to tighten it. Once the locknut has been hand tightened, use the pliers to turn the nut another quarter turn. Connect the fill tube to the water output nozzle at the top of the fill valve. Position the fill tube so it’s draining into the overflow tube. If there's a clip on the overflow tube, attach the fill tube to the clip to keep it in place. Check the manufacturer’s directions to determine the correct float height for the fill valve you purchased. Use a measuring tape to measure from the bottom of the tank, and adjust the fill valve to the right height by turning the adjustment screw. Turn the water back on and let the toilet tank fill with water. Check the water level, make sure the fill tube isn't in the water, and listen that there isn't any water running. Adjust the float height if necessary. Test the toilet by flushing it and letting it fill up again. Once the toilet has been fixed and is no longer running, carefully place the tank lid back on.

Summary: Shut off the water and drain the tank. Disconnect the water supply line. Remove the original fill valve. Install the new fill valve and connect the water. Attach the fill tube. Adjust the float. Test the fill valve.


Look up the type of plant that you have and see if it correctly digests acidic products. Many herbs and indoor plants will be suitable for this liquid coffee treatment. These are some examples that you can spray a coffee mixture on:  Spider plants Roses Hydrangeas African Violets. As well as using up the liquid, there are ways to also get rid of the grounds that are beneficial for suitable plants. For example, you can combine coffee grounds with soil, compost or fertilizer. These products can then be given to plants such as the following, to boost their growth:  Lettuce Gardenias Azaleas Hibiscus.

Summary: Research to see whether your plant is acid-friendly. Use coffee grounds on other plants.


The main panel for your dashboard normally doesn’t have room to install additional meters, so it’s easier to use a gauge pod, which is a standalone mount that rests on top of your dashboard. Position the gauges so they line up with the holes on the gauge pod and push them in to secure them in place. Keep the gauge pod somewhere on top of your dashboard where you can easily check the readouts.  You can buy gauge pods online or from automotive stores. Volt gauges and amp gauges are typically separate devices. You may also find gauge pods that attach to the A-pillar, which is the panel that runs up the side of the windshield toward the driver’s side door. Your vehicle’s firewall is the metal panel that creates a barrier between the engine and the interior of your car. Look in the footwell of the driver’s seat or under the hood on the driver’s side to see if there is a round rubber grommet that has cords or wires feeding through it. Push down on the rings of the grommet to feel if there’s still space inside for wires to feed through. If there is, then you can use the hole. If not, look for another hole and grommet nearby. If you aren’t able to use any of the holes under your vehicle, then contact a professional mechanic so they can make a hole through the firewall for you. A wire insertion tool looks like a hollow screwdriver that has a hole running through the middle of the handle. Pop open your vehicle’s hood to locate where the wires enter, and place the point of the insertion tool in an open spot on the grommet. Push the insertion tool hard enough so it punctures the grommet and pops out from the interior of your car.  You can buy wire insertion tools from your local hardware store. Be careful not to poke or damage any of the wires in the grommet since the end of the insertion tool can be sharp. Cut the wires so they’re about 15–20 feet (4.6–6.1 m) long so you can maneuver them around your vehicle. Place the wires into the hole at the end of the insertion tool’s handle and push them through completely. Go inside your vehicle and pull the ends of the wires so you have 6–7 feet (1.8–2.1 m) to work with.  When you connect to the amp gauge, you’ll use 1 red wire and 1 black wire that will both carry a current. The volt gauge will use 1 hot red wire and 1 green grounding wire. Leave the wires loose inside your vehicle while you’re working so you don’t break or damage them before you finish your installation. Lightly tug on the insertion tool’s handle to remove the end from the grommet. Hold the wires in place with your nondominant hand and continue pulling the tool backward so the wires slide through the middle. Make sure you don’t cut or damage the wires as you remove the tool completely. If you weren’t able to fit all of the wires through the tool at the same time, poke another hole through the grommet and feed any other wires through the new hole. ring terminals on the ends of the wires inside your vehicle. Ring terminals have a circular port so wires can easily slide over bolts or terminals. Strip the interior ends of each wire to remove 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of insulation from each one. Slide 10-gauge ring terminals over the ends of the wire so they cover the uninsulated portions. Grip the center of the ring terminal’s coating with wire crimpers and squeeze the handles together to make your connection.  You can buy ring terminals from your local hardware store. Don’t try to attach your gauges without using ring terminals since you won’t have as secure of a connection.
Summary: Mount the gauges in a gauge pod on top of your dashboard. Find a hole and grommet with wires through it in your vehicle’s firewall. Poke a wire insertion tool through the outer ring of the grommet. Feed 2 red, 1 black, and 1 green 10-gauge wire through the tool. Pull the insertion tool out from the grommet so the wires stay in place. Crimp