Q: Choose a vase with straight walls. Wash it with soap and water, then pat it dry with a clean towel. Wipe it down with rubbing alcohol. This will get rid of any oils that might prevent the paint and vinyl from sticking.  From now on, try to hold the vase only from the inside. Avoid using "bell-shaped" vases. It will be difficult to wrap the vinyl around them. Tear off a strip of painter's tape, and apply it to the inside rim of your vase. Stuff the vase with scrunched up newspaper. You will be painting your vase to help the colors show up better. If you want a translucent vase instead, you can skip this step. This will make your vase opaque and help the color show up better. Apply the paint using 2 to 3 thin, even coats; let each coat dry first before applying the next.  Applying the paint in lots of thin layers will help reduce drips and puddles. If you want a translucent vase instead, you can skip this step. This should only take about 20 minutes, but you might want to refer to the label on your paint can. Once the paint is dry, you can remove the painter's tape and newspaper. Measure the height and circumference of your vase. Draw a rectangle on the back of your vinyl, making it slightly bigger than your measurements. Lay the vase down on its side. Peel away some of the backing from the vinyl, and press it down onto the side of your vase. Working a little bit at a time, continue peeling the backing away from the vinyl and pressing the vinyl onto the vase. Smooth out any air bubbles as you go. Keeping the vase down on its side, use a craft blade to cut the excess vinyl from the top and bottom edges. Discard the excess vinyl. If you have not already, remove the painter's tape and newspaper. Fill the vase with water, then add some flowers into it. You can also use it to hold fake flowers instead.
A: Clean your vase. Protect the inside of your vase with newspaper and painter's tape. Paint your vase with flat, white spray paint. Let the paint dry completely. Measure and cut the holographic vinyl. Start applying the vinyl to the vase. Continue applying the vinyl to the vase. Trim off the excess vinyl from the top and sides of your vase. Use the vase.

Q: To prevent any weather damages, be mindful of where you set up your yurt. The best spot will be protected from wind, receive sun in the morning, get shade in the afternoon, and be free of any overhead objects.  This way, your structure will stay safe and secure. Overhead items include dead tree limbs, for example. The particular size of your platform depends on the overall diameter of your structure. These instructions are for a yurt with a 12 ft (3.7 m) diameter, so review your particular instructions before you start and adjust the process as necessary.  If your platform is not the same size and shape, your yurt may not be completely weatherproof. You want the side cover fabric to extend below the interior floor level for a draft-free, watertight seal. The platform is the hardest and most complex part of building a yurt. If you are not familiar with carpentry work, hire a professional contractor to make your base. This is the easiest way to ensure you build your yurt safely and correctly. If you’d like to try building the platform yourself, review the instructions from your specific yurt manufacturer. Many companies offer preliminary instructions on building your base yourself. These instructions will vary based on your particular yurt kit. Use 10 or so concrete footings to make the base of your platform. The overall placement will depend on your particular framing plan, but in general the footings should be 2–4 ft (0.61–1.22 m) apart in a 12 ft (3.7 m) circular shape. Use precast concrete footings. Use a table saw to cut your wooden beams based on your floor plan. Then, place the beams across the footings, and use a level to ensure each beam is straight. Finally, fasten the beams to the footings using the attached holders on the wooden beams.  For assistance with this process, ask your professional carpenter. Your specific beam placement will depend on your instructions. You can use 1.125 in (2.86 cm) thick plywood to create your flooring. Lay the boards over top of your beams so they are flat and parallel, and secure them on each side using a drill and a screw. Insert a screw through the plywood and the beam every 6–12 in (15–30 cm). The size and width of your flooring depends on your particular instructions. Using a hand saw, go around the edges and cut off any piece of plywood that hangs over your beams. This maintains the overall circular shape of your yurt. Make your cuts so the flooring and beams are flush. It’s okay if the sides aren’t completely even. Try your best to cut the wood as straight as possible. This seals the flooring and the drip edge. The drip edge is the outer edge of the yurt, and it is important to seal the edge and the flooring so no moisture gets inside. To do this, run a thin, even line of caulking around the perimeter of the flooring. This way, your wood is secured together and rain or condensation will not seep into your yurt. Cut 3⁄8 ft (0.11 m) exterior plywood into strips, based on your desired width. Hold the strips around the perimeter of the drip edge, and use a drill and large wood screws to fasten the strips of wood. Add 1 screw to each end of the strip.  When you do this, you want 1 ft (0.30 m) of plywood to extend above the floor level. Use a table saw to cut your strips to your desired size.
A: Decide on a spot for your yurt to protect it from the elements. Use a circular platform that is the same diameter of your yurt. Hire a professional to help you build your platform. Place the footings in a circular shape according to your framing plan. Cut the beams to the correct length and fasten them to the footings. Secure your flooring onto the wooden beams with your drill. Cut the flooring into a circle to match your yurt’s diameter. Apply waterproof caulking around the outside edge to seal out moisture. Secure a strip of plywood around the perimeter to finish the drip edge.

Q: Buying online might save you a few dollars, but try your local skate shop first. The few extra dollars you spend support the shop and your local skate community. Developing a good relationship with a local skate shop often saves you money in the long run. The completes are not as good as custom made, but you can get them for a lot less money and upgrade any bad components later.  A complete can cost anywhere from $50-$200 (USD). A custom made can cost anywhere from $90-$500 (USD).    Completes (from left to right)  Price in USD  Brand    Mini-Logo Red  $99.00  Mini-Logo    Classic  $149.00  Surf One    Twisted Dragon  $59.00  Powell Golden Dragon    Sunrise Wave  $149.00  Surf One    Kickflip Red  $59.00  Angelboy    Andy Mac Fist  $59.95  Andy Mac
A:
Be sure to purchase from a reputable source.