Write an article based on this "Clean off oil or protective coatings from the rotor. Place the replacement rotor over the wheel studs. As necessary, replace the caliper mounting brackets, if you previously removed them. Use a C-clamp or caliper compressor to compress some caliper pistons. Re-install the caliper. Install the vehicle's wheels. Test the rotor before driving."
Use a special brake cleaner solvent and a clean dry cloth to wipe any type of residue off the new rotor. Oil, bearing grease, improper solvents or coatings may damage or impair the performance of the brake pads. Do not use or clean dirty brake pads if they are oily or greasy -- they must be replaced. Put your new rotor on over the wheel hub. You'll need to thread the wheel studs through the corresponding holes on the rotor. Push the rotor back into its place around the wheel hub. At this point, depending on the exact construction of your wheel, you should replace the castle nut and/or cotter pin on the hub assembly. If you bent the previous cotter pin to remove it, you may need to replace it with a new one — these are very cheap. If you disassembled your vehicle's caliper mounting brackets to access the rotor, you'll need to replace them now. Re-align the brackets and secure them in place with the bolts you originally unscrewed. The bolts should have a thread locker put on them if was used in an earlier installation. Caution: Some caliper pistons actually screw in and this kind have grooves and notches in their top face to do so. Next, the caliper with pads and spring clips must be put back in its proper spot over the rotor. Unhook or untie the caliper from its out-of-the-way location, then carefully compress the caliper pistons with a C-clamp or a specialized tool called a caliper compressor. When the pistons are completely compressed, the caliper should fit over the rotor. Note that many vehicles may require the bleeder valves to be opened slightly to allow the pistons to compress back into the calipers since forcing brake fluid back through the lines can damage internal check valves or antilock brake mechanisms. Ensure the caliper slides are cleaned and lubed with caliper slide grease and has suitable brake pads, then place the caliper over the rotor in the position you originally found it in. Line up the bolt holes and reinstall the bolts you removed to take the caliper off of the rotor. Congratulations, you're nearly done. All that's left is to reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground. Carefully lift the wheel back into its original place over the lug bolts. Screw the lug nuts back on over the wheel bolts.  Slowly and carefully lower the vehicle to the ground. If you're using a jack, remove it from under the vehicle and  put it away. Don't forget to give the lug nuts an extra tightening when the wheel is on the ground. Refill the brake fluid then pump up the brakes using quarter strokes to keep from bottoming out the master cylinder shaft till the brakes are hard. Recheck fluid level and top off as needed. Bleed the brakes if any of the brake lines were opened. It's a wise idea to ensure the new rotor is working properly before driving away. In a safe location, start the vehicle and allow it to roll forward. Pump the brakes a few times. Push down on the brake pedal and let it rise slowly. The brakes should function properly, with no loud squeaking or vibrations — the former is a sign of worn-out brake pads and the latter of a warped rotor. Do a normal road test and brakes should stop normally without any noises or pulsations.