Problem: Article: You'll need a source of heat that maintains temperatures within the enclosure at a level comfortable for the bearded dragon. Dragons like temperatures between 78 and 88 F (25 to 31 C) during the day, and evening temperatures between 70 and 79 F (21 and 26 C).  Use a series of incandescent lights above the top of the cage. Keep in mind that they'll need to be turned off at night, when another heat source will be necessary, depending on the temperature in the room. Try a heating pad under the cage or a ceramic infrared heater as an evening source of heat. There are reptile-specific incandescent bulbs which emit heat but little visible light; however, these are expensive. For larger enclosures, adjust the room temperature with a thermostat or space heater. Always include a fire alarm in a room where light or other heat sources are in operation. Beardies like a temperature gradient in their habitat, allowing them to move between warmer and cooler spaces. The secondary heat source provides them with a spot where they can bask. This area should cover about 25-30 percent of the total enclosure surface, with a temperature of about 95-100 F (35-38 C). You can use a special basking light, or opt for a simple 30-75 watt incandescent bulb in a ceramic base. The source should be securely mounted where the animal cannot touch it.  Never use hot rocks as a heat source! Note that baby bearded dragons in a smaller cage space will need a lower wattage, otherwise the enclosure may become too hot.  Any temperatures above 110 F (43 C) are not recommended, but within a few degrees of these basking temperatures will be sufficient. One thermometer on the "hot side" and one on the "cool side" will make sure that your temperatures are in the correct range. Bearded dragons require ultraviolet light in order to produce Vitamin D, which in turn aids calcium absorption; insufficiency can lead to metabolic bone disease. You can use either fluorescent or mercury vapor bulbs; the former need to be replaced approximately every six months, since UVB output diminishes over time. They should have about 12 to 14 hours per day of exposure.  Make sure the fluorescent bulb has at least 5 percent UVB (check the packaging for these specifications). Look for light strips that cover the length of the enclosure. Consider reptile-specific black lights in the 290-320 nanometer range. (Note that these are not the same as plant-grow lights or psychedelic black lights, neither of which produces UVB rays.) You can choose bulbs that emit both white light and UVB, or UVB only. Ideally, the UVB light source should be about 10-12 in (25.4-30.5 cm) from wherever the bearded dragon spends most of its time (such as the basking site) to ensure adequate exposure. It should be no farther than 18 in (45.7 cm) away. Keep in mind that UVB rays do not pass through glass. Your UVB source should be above the mesh top of the enclosure, and the mesh should not be too fine. The sun is the best source of UVB rays. On sunny days when the temperatures are in the appropriate range (see Part 3, Step 1, above), place your beardie outside in a secure screen or wire cage with a locking door. Remember to provide some shade and hiding spaces, as well.
Summary: Provide a primary heat source. Include a secondary heat source. Provide UVB lighting.

Problem: Article: Put your body between passes that you receive and any defenders around you. Turn your hip or you back to the defense and try as much as you can to shield the ball from them. Messi will often already have his eyes up and looking over his shoulder at an opponent as soon as he traps the ball. When you trap a pass, try to do it by controlling it with the foot farthest away from the opponent. Though Messi often gets close enough to touch the defense, he's always got the ball closer to him and his center of gravity than his opponents. To start off on the right foot (ha!), accept the pass and trap it to create space in which to work. Keeping your eyes up, decide which direction is more likely to allow you enough space to maneuver around the defender. His hips won't lie: Look closely at the defender's hips to see which direction they're turned and what he seems to be anticipating you'll do. If you're right-footed, most defenders will instinctively guess that you'll go right, which might be your natural tendency anyway. Use that misconception to your advantage. Control the ball with the foot that matches the direction you're eventually going to go and take a step with the other foot. Messi's signature move happens so quick it's easy to miss, which is why it's so effective against defenders. Basically, to juke out a defender, Messi takes one stutter-step in the fake direction, feints, and then dribbles in the opposite with the outside of his foot. Messi brings the defender in and forces him to reveal his hand and make a mistake before blowing past them finding space. Messi isn't a flashy dribbler like Ronaldhino or a master of the step-over like Cristiano Ronaldo, he just uses simple changes of direction and ball control to do inhuman looking things. Drop it into high gear when you decide to switch direction. Blow past your opponent by flicking the ball in the direction you want to go and moving into your quick-dribble that you've been practicing so aggressively. You don't have to go super-fast to find space, you just need to make the smart dribble and catch the defender flat-footed and out of position. He won't be able to touch you.
Summary:
Shield the ball with your body. Accept passes with the foot farthest from your opponent. Locate the space. Bring the defense in by stepping in the opposite direction you want to go. Approach the defender slowly. Explode.