In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: One of the most common pieces of advice you may find online when trying to remove dried silicone from your hands is to use acetone. Acetone, an organic chemical frequently used in nail polish removers, is able to dissolve some plastics (like, for instance, acrylic nail polish) with ease. Its ability to dissolve or weaken silicone caulk is less definite. However, many online sources attest to its usefulness. To use this method, soak the corner of a paper towel with pure acetone or a nail polish remover containing acetone and gently wet the spots on your hands covered with acetone. Don't pour the acetone all over your hands — this is wasteful and can produce noxious unpleasant fumes. If using nail polish remover, check the ingredient label to be sure it contains acetone before using. Silicone, like many other synthetic compounds, will eventually weaken if heated up gradually. Because of this property, some sources recommend using a hair dryer to loosen the caulk's hold on your hands. Turn the dryer on and wave it over the affected areas, allowing the silicone to gradually warm. Once you feel that the silicone has heated up, try scrubbing with a sponge or another mild abrasive to get it off. If you want to try this method, be sure to start with the lowest possible setting on the hair dryer. Gradually increase the heat as needed and stop immediately if the heat becomes intense or painful. Silicone isn't worth burning yourself over — it will eventually fall off on its own. Another way to get silicone off of your hands is simply to rub (and rub, and rub...) until there's none left. However, this method requires a warning. Silicone is quite tough — in fact, for most purposes, it's tougher than your skin. Because of this, you'll want to be very careful as you use your abrasive to remove the silicone to avoid rubbing your skin raw. Use only mild abrasives, not harsh ones like steel wool. Stop rubbing well before you think you might be sore. Remember, the silicone will eventually fall off on its own, so there's no reason to hurt yourself trying to get it off. Just a few appropriate abrasives you might consider using are:  Kitchen sponges Fine-grit sandpaper (if you're careful) Pumice stones Like acetone, mineral spirits (a turpentine substitute sometimes called "white spirits" in the UK) are sometimes prescribed for the task of weakening stubborn silicone caulk. As with acetone, the actual usefulness of mineral spirits is the subject of some doubt, though some home improvement sites recommend them. If you have some mineral spirits handy, try applying some to dried-on silicone lightly with a soaked paper towel. Follow with abrasion once the spirits have had a chance to weaken the silicone. If you don't have mineral spirits, you can usually find some at major hardware stores for fairly cheap (usually not much more than $10 per gallon). While mineral spirits are usually not dangerous to touch, be sure to thoroughly wash yourself after coming into contact with them. Being in direct contact with mineral spirits for several hours or longer can lead to seriously nasty chemical burns. Sometimes, particularly stubborn spots of silicone caulk can stick to your hands despite your repeated efforts to get it off. In these cases, your best option may be simply to wait for it to fall off on its own, rather than wear your hands red trying to get it off. Your body naturally sheds dead skin cells nearly constantly. Once the skin under the dried-on silicone dies, it will eventually fall off, taking the caulk with it. The human body usually takes about 27 days to completely shed and replenish an entire layer of skin. The silicon gel dried to your hands will probably take less time to fall off (on the order of a week or so). When it comes to getting silicone caulk off of your hands, stick to the safe methods described in this article — don't risk trying anything that may hurt you. For instance, while acetone and mineral spirits are generally safe for brief use on your hands, other, harsher chemicals can present serious problems. Many noxious or caustic solvents can be harmful if touched, inhaled, or ingested, so you'll want to stay far away from them. Below are just a few of the sorts of chemicals you definitely won't want to use to get caulk off of your hands:  Bleach Drain cleaner Paint thinner Lye Strong acids or bases. Never use a sharp tool or a harsh abrasive to physically remove silicone caulk from your hands. Though it may be tempting to use a knife or a handful of steel wool to scrape or cut annoying dried-on caulk away from your hands, these methods run a high risk of injuring your hands. On top of this, there's very little guarantee that they work well against the gummy, clingy texture of silicone. Though this advice probably goes without saying for most, in the interests of safety, it bears mentioning.
Summary: Try acetone. Try (cautiously) using a hair dryer. Try an abrasive. Try mineral spirits. When all else fails, simply wait. Don't use harsh solvents. Don't scrape or gouge the caulk.

Place your artwork on the backing and measure the space on each side. You should have the same amount of blank space above and below the artwork, as well as on the left and right sides of the piece. Make small pencil marks in the corners on the backing to record the right spot. It’s a good idea to make sure your centering looks right with the window on top of the artwork. This will give you an idea of what your final, matted piece is going to look like. Take a minute to enjoy it before you get back to work. Now that everything’s centered, it’s time to start attaching all the pieces to one another. Use something heavy, like a sock filled with coins or a heavy glass, to keep your artwork where you want it. Don’t worry too much if it shifts, though, since you’ve made marks to keep track of the centering. Use linen or archival tape to create what’s called a hinge to attach your window to the backing. Put two pieces of tape in vertical lines on each side of the back of the piece, so the sticky side doesn’t touch the backing. Lay two more pieces of tape horizontally across the vertical pieces (sticky-side down) to adhere the artwork to the backing. Linen and archival tape has the adhesive ability of regular tape, but it won’t damage your artwork or mat board. It’ll cost more than normal tape, but regular household tape contains acids and other chemicals that may eventually leak onto your artwork. If you’re using corners, take off the bottom adhesive and place four of them on the backing at each corner of the piece. For see-through mounting strips, use two on each side of the piece, or eight total, and adhere them to the backing. You can then slip the artwork directly under the corners or strips. Photo corners and strips are best for conservation, as they avoid the damage that even linen tape could cause to your piece. Lay down the window and the backing flush against each other, with the window face down. Use one long strip of linen tape to connect the window to the backing. Place the tape so one half is on the back of the window and one half is on the backing. Fold them together like you’re closing a book.  It’s best to connect the window and backing at the top of the frame. You’re now ready to put this matted print into a frame if you’d like a more finished look. You can also attach an adhesive picture hanger to the back of your backing board to hang the matted frame up on the wall by itself.
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One-sentence summary -- Measure to center your artwork on the backing. Check your centering by laying down your window. Use a weight to keep your artwork in place. Tape the back of your art to the backing. Use photo corners or mounting strips to attach your artwork. Attach the window mat by creating a taped hinge.

Problem: Article: "  You will have the option to enter a name for the file, and select a file destination. " Your iMovie will then be saved in a format compatible with Apple TV.  You can now sync the movie with Apple TV within iTunes.
Summary:
Launch your iMovie application, then navigate to the movie you want added to Apple TV. Click on the button labeled "Share," then select "QuickTime. Select the option to compress your movie, then choose "Expert Settings" from the pop-up menu that displays. Click the "Share" button again, then enter your file preferences. Select "Movie to Apple TV" from within the export drop-down menu, then click "Save. Open the Apple iTunes application on your computer. Navigate to the iMovie file you recently saved, then click and drag the file into your Apple iTunes.