Article: Damaged hair will only become more damaged as you put it through the daily straightening process, and you won’t be able to get the sleek look you’re after. If you’ve got split ends or inches of damage, start fresh by having your stylist cut them off. If you really don’t want to cut your hair, it may be possible to repair some damage over time with products containing oils and moisturizers. This is not a quick-fix, though—it could take two to three months to see improvements. Use your smoothing (or strengthening) shampoo and conditioner and rinse them well. Depending on the product(s) you choose, you may need to apply it while your hair is still wet. Some products direct you to use them on damp hair, while others are for dry hair and you should apply them immediately before using the flat iron. Whatever the case, be sure to follow the directions on the packaging for best results. Use only as much product as you need for your specific hair type and length. Using too much product could result in hair that is weighed down and looks greasy, rather than sleek and shiny. Allowing your hair to air/towel dry for at least part of the time will reduce the amount of heat—and thus drying—endured by your hair. If you are able to straighten and style your hair to your satisfaction after allowing your hair to completely air/towel dry, this is a great option for reducing damage. Blow-drying your hair adds more heat, which can cause additional damage, but many people who straighten their hair also need to blow it dry to get the look they desire.  To create volume, blow-dry by lifting at the roots.  If you have thick hair, you will want to apply tension with a brush as you dry—this will help to get the hair as smooth as possible.  Do not attempt to straighten your hair until it is absolutely dry. If you hear a sizzle, stop!
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Keep hair trimmed. Wash your hair. Apply your heat protector. Partially air/towel dry. Blow-dry your hair.
Article: Don't adjust your bow until you have installed any optional accessories you plan on using, including silencers, balancing weights, an arrow rest, and sights. Any accessory can potentially affect how the bow shoots.  Install your peep sight through the string, if used. Install any silencers you will want to use. Choose an arrow rest. There are several types, common ones include biscuit rests, flipper rests, and others. This point should be about one arrow diameter square from the string, above the bottom of the arrow rest. Arrows with too much or too little spine, or that are too short or two long for your draw length will make accurately tuning your bow almost impossible. You may use any type of paper, but try to find a large sheet at least 24 inches (61 cm) on each side that is thin enough to tear with the force of a fletching going through it. Place this in a large picture frame with no back, or cut out your own frame from cardboard. Place the framed paper about 5 feet (1.5 m) in front of a safe target for your arrows, with the center of the paper at about shoulder height. Be prepared to use several sheets of paper in case your bow needs major adjustment. Shoot the arrow while standing approximately 5–10 ft (1.5–3 m) from the paper. You may wish to shoot two or three arrows, but only if you have the space to make a distinct hole in the paper for each one, near the paper's center. If the hole is a neat tear with three vane marks centered evenly, your bow is likely in decent shape already. If one of the vane marks is much thicker and sloppier than the others, make adjustments as described below. Always start by correcting vertical wobbling in the arrow, sometimes called porpoising. If the vertical tear on the paper is thick and long above the entry point, raise the nocking point slightly and shoot again. If the vertical tear is thick and long, but below the entry point, try lowering the nocking point instead.  In most cases, finding the correct nocking height for your arrow will prevent it from wobbling vertically during flight. If you cannot solve the problem after several shots, consider the following adjustments:  The fletching on your arrow may be striking the arrow rest as it leaves the bow. Mark the vanes of an arrow with athlete's foot powder or lipstick, as well as the arrow rest and any portion of your bow near the arrow. Shoot the arrow, then see where the material is rubbed off or marked. Adjust the arrow rest until the material is not smudged after shooting.  On a compound bow, the wheel timing of your cams may be off. See the timing section. If the "tail" of the tear in the paper is much larger on the left or right, your arrow may be wobbling horizontally as it flies. This is typically caused by using an arrow that is too light or too stiff for your bow. Check the minimum arrow weight of your bow, or use an arrow selection chart to look up the correct "arrow spine," or stiffness, for your bow. If you are using the correct arrows, try adjusting the arrow rest left or right, or altering the spring tension of your bow. Once you can shoot holes in your paper that are small and round, surrounded by small, even lines torn by the fletching, move back to about 40 ft (12 m) and try again. Because the arrows have a farther distance to fly, small problems will alter the arrow's flight more drastically. If the holes in the paper have any of the problems described above, make the same adjustments on a smaller scale to fine tune your bow. Once you are consistently getting well-shaped tears in the paper from this distance, your bow is well tuned.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Install all accessories first. Use a bow square or other tool to center your arrow rest with the nocking point on your bowstring. Make sure you are using the correct arrows for the way your bow is set up. Frame a piece of paper a few feet in front of an arrow backstop. Shoot a fletched arrow at the target, through the paper. Examine the hole your arrow made in the paper. Adjust the nocking point based on the vertical appearance of the hole. Eliminate side-to-side wobbling. Test again from further away.