Article: To get the best results, you should iron your shirt to smooth out any wrinkles that could mess up the ink transfer.  Inkodye works best with cotton shirts so be sure to set your iron to the cotton setting. Iron the shirt until you’ve removed all wrinkles, especially on and around the area you plan to print on. Use a dry ironing method without steam. Place the cardboard inside your shirt and smooth out the area again. Cardboard works well because it’s flat and won’t let the ink bleed through to the other side of the shirt. Plus, when you’re done, you can just throw it away. You can use a piece of cardboard or plastic frame that you’ve made or simply use blue painter’s tape to tape off the area.  The area inside your frame is where you’ll paint on the ink. The frame ensures that no ink gets outside of the area. If you don’t want any extra inked area around your photo, use a frame that’s slightly smaller than your image. A smaller frame ensures that the ink won’t bleed out past your photo. Make sure not to tape the image down. It will get stuck. And run your fingernail along the taped edges if you used tape you ensure there are no gaps. Make sure to shake the bottle well before pouring the ink.  Make sure that your bowl isn’t absorbent, you don’t want the dye seeping into it. Try to do this in a ventilated room that isn’t exposed to a lot of natural light. About 2.5 tablespoons (40 ml) can coat an 11X11” cotton square. Coat your brush or roller with the dye. Use the edges of your bowl to get excess dye of your brush so there’s not dripping or blotting.  Evenly apply the dye to your desired area on your shirt. Don’t soak your shirt. Inkodye is fairly colorless so pay close attention to how much you are applying. After you’ve covered the desired area, grab a paper towel and blot the area to soak up any excess dye. Once you’ve covered the area you no longer need your frame. You can keep the frame on if you used tape and you think some of the dye may have bled through. You can press down your negative onto your shirt to help it stick to the dyed area.  Smooth out the area with your hand. You want your negative to make good contact everywhere with the dye. Use straight pins on the edges of your negative to keep it in place. Alternatively, you can place a piece of acetate over the top of your negative. You now want to bring your shirt with the negative on it outside and let it soak up the sun to dry and transfer the image.  Expose your print to direct sunlight for 10-15 minutes. It’s best to do this when the sun is strongest around 11:00 am to 3:00 pm. You may have to expose your print for longer if it’s cloudy out. After about five or so minutes you’ll begin to see the image darken. It’s best to remove the negative in a space that isn’t very bright. Removing the negative in subdued lighting will help to keep the print intact. It’s best to wash your shirt in the washing machine, but you can hand wash it as well.  Washing will remove any extra Inkodye from your shirt and make your print look nice and fresh. Use warm to hot water for best results. You may want to wash it twice to remove all the residue. After your shirt is clean, it’s ready to wear!
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Lay your shirt on a flat surface and iron it. Insert a piece of foam core or cardboard into your shirt. Create a frame where you want to place the image. Pour your Inkodye into a bowl. Apply the Inkodye to your shirt. Remove the frame to see the painted area. Place your negative on the inked part of the shirt. Expose your print to direct sunlight. Remove the negative. Wash your shirt.

Problem: Article: Tell the casting director and anyone else watching that you appreciate their time and look forward to hearing back. Smile, shake their hands if offered, and walk out with your head held high. Last impressions are just as important as first impressions for projecting a confident atmosphere. Auditioning takes a great deal of courage and self-confidence. Pat yourself on the back for putting yourself out there, and take pride in doing your best. Rejection can weigh you down. If you're not careful, it can even decrease your confidence in future auditions. Feeling disappointed is normal, but remember that you can't read the casting director's mind. You don't know how they came upon their decisions. Auditioning is more than finding the best performers: it's also choosing people who fit the part. They may not have been looking for someone who looks like you or acts like you.You might not be a good fit for this production, but you have other opportunities. For example, Tom Hiddleston makes an excellent Loki, but he initially tried out for the role of Thor. His audition was rejected because he just didn't have what the directors were looking for. You might not be the right fit for this piece, but you could fit perfectly somewhere else. If you have a bad audition, write down all of your thoughts afterwards. What did you do right? What could have gone better? Make your weaknesses strengths so that you'll be ready for your next audition. If you think you need professional help, hire an performance coach or attend local workshops. With experience comes improvement. You can't help but improve when you train.
Summary: Thank your casting director when you have finished. Congratulate yourself on every audition, whether or not you got the part. Don't take it personally if you are not casted. Learn from your mistakes.

A metal scraper is a good place to start, though if you're worried about scratching the surface, you can use a plastic one. The polyurethane should peel off fairly easily as you move along. The paint stripper should have done the hard work. Scrape in the direction of the wood grain. Scrubbing against the grain can damage the surface of the floors or furniture. Plus, if you add any scratches, it will look like the grain of the wood. In curved or decorative areas, a scraper won't work as well. Instead, scrub it with a metal brush, as the bristles will get in all the nooks and crannies and remove the polyurethane. After wash is a solvent you use after paint stripper. Its purpose is to clean up the end of the polyurethane, as well as remove the paint stripper you used. Just use a paper towel to rub it in. You don't have to leave it on for any time. Just rub it on until the rest of the polyurethane comes up. If the first round didn't take off enough of the polyurethane, go through the process again. Apply another layer of paint stripper to the area, and then scrape it down again, checking to see if that completed the process. After you've removed most of the polyurethane, sand down what remains. You can simply use fine steel wool. You can also use 150-grit sandpaper. The sandpaper will smooth it out and take off the last of the polyurethane. The after wash should have taken off most of the polyurethane, which is why you shouldn't need a heavy-duty sandpaper. Always rub with the grain. Take the water and rags to a hazardous waste disposal unit in your town, along with leftover stripper. Do not throw rags and chemicals directly into the trash or sewer. Contact your city to find your local waste disposal center.
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One-sentence summary --
Use a scraper to scrub it down. Use a steel brush to get into small areas. Rub the polyurethane down with after wash. Repeat as needed. Sand the surface to remove polyurethane. Soak your discarded rags and steel wool in water to avoid fires.