Write an article based on this "Use squirrel-proof feeders. Use a squirrel-resistant feeder if you are budget minded. Use baffles to prevent a squirrel or raccoon from climbing to a feeder."
article: There are several on the market that are weight-activated, allowing birds to feed but not squirrels. Some have better features, and might last longer, but are also a bit on the expensive side. These tend to be less expensive, and are not quite as sturdy but will do the trick. These feeders will definitely slow down the seed consumption and might work if you only have an occasional squirrel, but are not truly squirrel-proof like the choices above. Baffles can be hung or placed on poles or posts and they work if used correctly.  The magic formula is ten feet by five feet. That is, athletic squirrels can jump ten feet horizontally and five feet vertically.   Pole baffles are the easiest to situate. You can use either a straight pole or a shepherd's staff pole, just make sure that it is tall enough. Place the pole ten feet away from any trees, fence or other structure from where the squirrel might jump. Mount the baffle five feet high on the pole. Make sure that feeders hang above the top of the baffle. If you want to hang a baffle, the best way is to string a wire between two trees, place the baffle in the middle, ten feet away from either tree, and hang the feeder underneath the baffle. Make sure the bottom of the feeder is above five feet. Metal baffles tend to be most effective.

Write an article based on this "Mix the plaster. Insert a funnel into the end of a balloon. Put the plaster inside the balloon. Tie the balloon. Float the balloon. Cut away the balloon. Decorate your eggs."
article: Plaster of Paris can be purchased from many craft stores. Mix 1 cup of plaster compound with ½ cup water. This should provide enough plaster for several eggs. Stir the mixture until it has a smooth and creamy texture, like a thin milkshake. Do not pour excess plaster of Paris down the drain, as it can harden and clog pipes. Regular latex balloons and an ordinary kitchen funnel will work just fine. Make sure to insert the end of the funnel far enough into a balloon so that it won’t fall out or spill the plaster. Alternatively, you could fill a clean squeeze bottle with plaster of Paris so that you can squirt it into the balloon. Carefully spoon the plaster of Paris mixture into the funnel so that it pours into the balloon (or use a squeeze bottle to fill it). Fill the balloon until it is nice and round. Be careful not to fill the balloon so much that it can burst. Remove the funnel, taking care not to spill the plaster out of the balloon. Close the end of the balloon with a tight not and/or tie it closed with a piece of string. Place the tied-up balloon in a bucket of water while the plaster of Paris sets. This ensures that you do not have a dinosaur egg that is flat on one side. The setting process may take up to several hours (follow the plaster of Paris package instructions for details). Dry  the balloon and cut the end off. Carefully cut or peel the rest of the balloon off. Smooth out any rough spots with sandpaper. Let the plaster of Paris eggs dry for about 24 hours. Then, you can decorate them with paint, glitter, etc. Have fun and use your imagination!

Write an article based on this "Acclimate your linoleum to the room. Remove any furniture, appliances, and doors. Detach any baseboards. Remove baseboard nails. Patch up pre-existing flooring material. Use a plywood underlay, as an alternative."
article:
Linoleum and its synthetic alternatives are soft, pliable, and flexible when compared to most other flooring materials. In fact, they're so flexible that they will actually shrink and expand ever-so-slightly with changes in temperature. Though these changes are imperceptible to the naked eye, they can cause minor issues when it comes to installing and maintaining your floor. Because of this, you'll want to give your linoleum a chance to reach its "resting" size by storing it in the room you intend to use it in for about 24 hours prior to installing it. Before beginning the process of laying down your linoleum flooring, you'll want to completely clear your work area from any possible obstructions. For most rooms, this will mean removing any furniture or floor decorations (e.g. rugs, etc.), along with any appliances that are connected to the floor, like toilets or pedestal-style sinks. Finally, you will probably want to remove any doors from their hinges, especially if they open inward, to ensure that you're able to comfortably work all the way to the edge of the room. When it comes to preparing your work area, be conservative. Spending a little extra time removing items that may not be completely necessary to remove is almost always a better use of time than halting your work later on to, for instance, uninstall a toilet that's in your way. Next, remove any baseboards — the small wooden "trim" pieces at the bottom of a wall — that run along the edges of your floor. Usually, this can be accomplished by carefully prying with a pry bar, flat head screwdriver, or sturdy putty knife. To prevent damage to your wall, try inserting a small block of wood behind your prying tool as you work the baseboard away from the wall. This keeps your tool from scratching against the wall and provides additional leverage. While you are working on your baseboards, take the opportunity to also remove any outlet covers that could be damaged by your linoleum flooring installation project. After you remove your baseboards, quickly examine your bottoms of your walls near the floor to look for any leftover nails sticking out of the wall. Carefully pull these nails out of the wall with a pair of pliers, the "claw" end of a hammer, or a similar prying tool. If left in, these nails can present problems when attempting to lay your linoleum flat against the wall. Linoleum must be laid over floor that's as close to perfectly smooth and even as possible. If it isn't, the underlying imperfections will eventually be reflected in the linoleum itself, resulting in unsightly bumps, ridges, soft spots, and so on. If you plan to lay your linoleum over the existing floor, check it to make sure that it is level and free of imperfections. If you plan to lay it over the subfloor, remove your existing flooring and check whether the subfloor is in good condition. If your floor or subfloor isn't completely even and level, you may want to try fixing minor issues with the tips below:  Concrete floors: Level high spots with a grinder or masonry chisel. Fill in small holes or cracks with additional concrete. Wood floors: Use an embossing leveler to fix minor dents and indentations. For more serious issues, use plywood underlayment (see below). Existing linoleum floors: Repair worn sections of floor or indentations with an embossing leveler (apply with a straightedge trowel). If any sections are damaged or loose, remove the linoleum and work off of the subfloor. Some floors and subfloors just aren't suitable for supporting linoleum flooring — either they're too worn or damaged to easily repair or you'd like to keep the floor material for use in other projects. In these cases, it's usually best to use a plywood underlayment to support the linoleum. Cut 1/4 inch (0.63 centimeter) underlayment-grade plywood to fit the floor area you plan to cover with linoleum, then lay this over the existing floor or subfloor. This provides a smooth, even surface for the linoleum to rest on, bypassing the problems of using a damaged or worn floor entirely.  For tight seams for your plywood pieces, use a pneumatic stapler about every 8 inches (20.3 cm) along edges. Don't forget that using an underlayment will raise the level of the floor slightly, which may require you to shave off a small amount of material from the bottoms of any doors in the room.