For some pets, such as guinea pigs, it is not possible to use many of the flea treatments available. In this case, a simple bath may be your only option. By bathing the pet in warm, not hot, water, you're trying to drown the fleas. This won't likely kill any eggs left, and it may be necessary to comb your pet, as well as repeat this bath.  Since the fleas will run to the head and face of your pet once you start wetting them, it is best to wet and lather up only the neck first then the rest of your pet. This will create a barrier to prevent the fleas from invading your pet's face and ears. Use room temperature or slightly warm water, so as not to shock or harm your pet. Stop the bath with small pets that get too stressed out. Animals like rabbits and guinea pigs can die from fear-induced heart-attacks. Though it may cause some skin dryness and/or irritation, dish soap can be effective at killing fleas. The soap is toxic to fleas, and can be used as a way to control the infestation. Make sure to rinse your pet thoroughly. These are shampoos that are specially designed to treat fleas in specific animals. Find one formulated for your pet. Make sure to follow the instructions provided exactly, to prevent any injury to your pet. Always rinse thoroughly. Residue from flea treatments can irritate your pets skin, and possibly lead to harm. By taking the time to rinse all the soap, shampoo, or herbal treatment from your pet, you will help to remove fleas, as well as ensure leftover residue doesn't cause your pet more discomfort.
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One-sentence summary -- Use just water. Use dish soap in a bath to kill fleas. Get a flea shampoo. Rinse thoroughly.


It's not enough to merely kill the adult bees or the reproducing females; you need to kill the bee larvae in their nests in order to keep them from reproducing. Apply insecticidal dust to the holes burrowed by the carpenter bees to ensure that larvae that are hatched will be killed.  Make sure you use dust to stop the reproduction cycle; other insecticides can become absorbed into the wood or wear off before the larvae are hatched. Do not seal up the hole when first applying the insecticide dust. This forces the carpenter bees to burrow new holes, meaning there's a chance they won't pass through the insecticide. After the bees have all been removed from existing burrows, seal the holes with plugs, puddy, or caulking compound to prevent their future use by other bees.  Make sure all the bees are dead before plugging the existing holes. Any carpenter bees that become trapped by the plugs will simply drill new tunnels into the wood around them. The best time to fill in these holes is in the fall months. Although carpenter bees can attack all wood surfaces, they tend to prefer untreated wood. Paint or stain with varnish any untreated wooden surfaces outside that may attract carpenter bees. Painted wood is slightly better at discouraging infestation than stained wood, but the difference is effectively marginal. The final step to preventing carpenter bee infestation is to spray insecticide on outdoor wooden surfaces that may attract carpenter bees. If you'd prefer not to use insecticide, hanging bee traps near wooden surfaces is also an effective deterrent.  Particularly vulnerable areas include underneath rail sidings, under decks, and around window sills. Untreated wood is especially vulnerable to infestation and should be treated with insecticide if it hasn't been painted or stained.
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One-sentence summary -- Use insecticidal dust to stop the cycle of reproduction. Plug the carpenter bee holes after all the bees have been killed. Stain or paint outdoor wooden surfaces to discourage bee infestation. Spray wooden surfaces with insecticide in the spring.


In general, stain removers should not be used too often. Even mild stain removers can wear down a counter's surface. If you notice a spill, wipe it up with paper towel promptly. If there is any remaining mess, wipe the area down with water or a cleaner that works for your countertop. Avoid letting stains become set into the counter. A mixture of water and white vinegar can be spritzed on stains for limestone, slate, and soapstone. This should remove set in stains. You can also add enough water to baking soda to form a paste. Rub the paste into the stain until it lifts and then rinse the paste off with water. Bleach diluted with water can be worked into stains on a tile counter top using a toothbrush. Make sure to dilute the bleach to safe levels. The instructions on a container of bleach should tell you the ratios to use to dilute your bleach. If there is mildew in the cracks of tiles, however, opt for a mildew cleaner. You can buy this at most grocery or department stores. Silestone is particularly susceptible to damage. Store bought cleaners often wear down silestone, as will some cleaners made from household products. As specific types of silestone differ, check the manufacturer's label to see what is safe to use on your specific brand of silestone.
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One-sentence summary -- Wipe spills as soon as you notice them. Use baking soda or vinegar for limestone, slate, and soapstone. Target tile stains with a toothbrush. Check manufacturer's recommendations for silestone.


It’s the blue and white chat bubble icon with a sideways lightning bolt inside. You’ll usually find it on the home screen. Messenger is set up to automatically show you when someone has read your message. This opens a conversation with that person. It’s the blue paper airplane icon at the bottom-right corner of the message. A blue check mark in a white circle means you’ve sent the message, but the person has not yet opened Messenger. A white check mark in a blue circle means the person has opened Messenger since you’ve sent the message, but they haven’t read it. When the person’s profile picture appears in a tiny circle below the message, you’ll know the message has been read.
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One-sentence summary --
Open Facebook Messenger on your iPhone or iPad. Tap the person you want to message. Type your message and tap the Send button. Check the message status.