Problem: Article: The window regulator runs the width of the interior portion of the door and moves back and forth in order to raise and lower the window.  Find the bolts that hold the regulator to the door and remove them with a socket or open ended wrench.  Set the bolts aside someplace safe, where you will easily be able to determine which bolts were for the regulator. Leave the regulator laying inside the door’s interior for now. The power window motor is much smaller than the regulator, but should be located close by.  In most applications, the bolts securing the motor to the door are the same size as the regulator mounting bolts.  Remove them and set them someplace safe as well. Even if the bolts have the same size head, they may not be the same length, so be sure to set them aside separately from the regulator mounting bolts. The power window controls attach to the motor and regulator via a wiring pigtail connector.  Press the tab down to disconnect the pigtail then pull them apart to disconnect the motor.  Be careful not to break the tab that holds the wiring harness together. Pull the pigtail apart at the clip, not on the wires.  Pulling on the wires could pull them out of the pigtail. With the pigtail disconnected, the power window motor and regulator will no longer be connected to anything inside the door.  Reach into the large access port and pull them each out.  The two are connected, so pulling one will remove them both. Be careful not to damage the regulator if you are only replacing the motor. If you are only replacing the power window motor and not the regulator itself, you will need to disconnect it and connect it to your new power window motor.  Visually inspect the two to make sure the new motor matches the old one, then swap the regulator.  Different vehicles will use different methodology to secure the regulator to the window motor. Refer to the service manual for your vehicle if you are unsure of how to disconnect the regulator.
Summary: Remove the window regulator bolts. Locate and remove the window motor mounting bolts. Disconnect the motor wiring harness connector. Remove the motor and regulator through the access port. Connect the regulator to the new motor.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Use a sod cutter to remove the marked turf. Slice the turf into strips along each baseline,  creating a bare path of earth that is 3 feet wide. Roll the strips up and remove them from the area. Replace the turf with a mix of sand, clay, and silt. Use a mix that’s 50-75% sand and 25-50% clay and silt. A mix that’s too sandy will be unstable underfoot, while a mix with too much clay and silt will be too hard and compact. For each base, dig a 2’ x 2’ hole, 8.5” deep, where the base will be. Level the bottom and then set your anchor inside. Before burying the anchor, attach the base to the anchor's post. Double-check the anchor's placement by remeasuring the base’s distance from the back tip of home plate. Reposition the anchor if necessary. Then fill the hole back in with soil.  Compact the soil at the bottom of your hole to make sure your anchor doesn’t settle any farther down over time. Make sure the bottom is level so that the base will be, too. Also make sure that the soil you shovel back into the hole is compact by adding only small amounts at a time and packing that in before shoveling in more. Remember that for second base, you’re measuring from the back tip of home plate to the center of second base. For first and third bases, you’re measuring from the back tip of home plate to the foul-side corner of each base. The top of your anchor post should be roughly a half-inch below the top of your hole. Lay a 2x4 over the hole and measure the distance between its bottom and the top of the post to double-check the distance before burying the anchor. Remove the marked turf within your pitcher’s mound. Replace the turf with a mix of sand, clay, and silt. For adults, build your mound until the center rises 10 1/2 inches higher than home plate. For Little League, make your mound 6 inches at its highest. Then create the “slope” in front of the pitcher’s rubber by removing 1 inch of soil from the mound for every foot in front of the rubber, starting one foot out, until the soil reaches ground level at the edge of the mound. For the pitcher’s mound, use a mix that’s 40% sand, 20% silt, and 40% clay. Dig a 10” x 23” hole, 9.5” deep, where the rubber will be, with the longer side parallel to the front of home plate. Level the bottom, place the anchor inside, and stake it into position. Press soil along the base of each tube in the anchor to prevent concrete from leaking inside. Then fill the area surrounding the anchor with concrete without covering the anchor itself. Once the concrete has dried, withdraw the stakes and plug the anchor’s tubes. Refill the hole with soil. Then unplug the tubes and attach the rubber.  When you first place the anchor into the hole, attach the rubber. Double-check the anchor’s placement by measuring the distance between each of the rubber’s front corners with those of home plate to make sure they’re equidistant. Then gently remove the rubber without moving the anchor out of position. Compact the soil at the bottom of your hole to make sure your anchor doesn’t settle any farther down over time. Make sure the bottom is level so that the rubber will be, too. Also make sure that the soil you shovel back into the hole is compact by adding only small amounts at a time and packing that in before shoveling in more. The top of each tube should be 1.5” below the top of the hole. Lay a 2x4 over the hole and measure the distance between its bottom and the tubes’ tops to double-check the distance before pouring concrete. Remove the marked turf within your batter’s area. Replace the turf with a mix of sand, clay, and silt. Then outline your batter’s and catcher’s boxes with chalk.  Batter’s boxes (for both left-handed and right-handed players) are 4 feet wide and 6 feet long for adults, while those in Little League are 3 feet wide and 6 feet long. Measure the boxes so their midpoints are even with that of home plate. Allow six inches of free space between each box and home plate.  The catcher’s box is 43 inches wide and 8 feet long for adults, and 25 inches wide and 8 feet long for Little League. Measure your box so that it’s center is even with that of home plate. For each, begin your measurement from the back corner of home plate. From there, measure a distance of 325 feet along the outside of the square created by the baselines. At that distance, plant a pole marker. Then stretch a lining cord between the back corner of home plate and the pole marker. Chalk directly over the lining cord to create your foul line. Also an install a protective fence that extends 400 feet from home plate behind each foul line to shield spectators. Protect spectators behind the batter’s area from missed pitches and stray balls. Install a backstop 60 feet behind home plate for adult players; for Little League, install it 25 feet behind home plate.  Failing that, plant hedges instead to catch stray balls. Standard-sized backstops stand 30 to 40 feet high and measure 30 feet wide directly behind home plate, with 40-foot extensions running parallel with the baselines from either end. For a 30-foot height, dig foundation holes 2 feet in diameter and 7.5 feet deep for the supports. For a 40-foot height, make your holes 9.5 feet deep. Once they are placed inside each hole, secure the poles firmly in place by filling the hole with concrete.
Summary:
Soil the baselines. Anchor your bases. Create a pitcher’s mound. Anchor your pitcher’s rubber. Finish the batter’s area. Create two foul lines. Erect a backstop.