Because of this fact, it is best to feed salamanders at night, when they are most active. Set an alarm for yourself when you first bring your salamander home, or else you might forget to feed him at night. Keep in mind that your salamander might not eat during the first few days that he is in his new home. Salamanders get nervously easily and when they are introduced to a new environment, they tend to take a few days to adjust to his new surroundings. Other salamanders, however, will cozy right up to their new home and will eat heartily on day one. If you bought a juvenile salamander, you should feed them daily until they stop growing and mature into an adult. Salamanders are carnivores--they like to hunt their prey. Because of this preference, you will need to feed your salamander live prey. If you have to purchase dead prey, frozen prey is better than dry prey. Salamanders love:  Live earthworms, nightcrawlers (from a bait shop), bloodworms and crickets (which can be purchased at pet stores), live waxworms, live slugs, live white worms and tubifex worms.They will also eat frozen bloodworms, though you may have to move the bloodworm around to catch your salamanders attention. Give your aquatic salamanders brine shrimp. You can also feed them Daphnia and water fleas. In general, salamanders will simply stop eating when they are full. The amount you feed your salamander really depends on him. During the first couple of days that you feed it, provide him with a set amount of prey (you choose the number) and then check back on them in the next couple of hours. If there are any worms or crickets left, you will know that your salamander doesn’t need that much food. Note that fire salamanders and tiger salamanders can become obese if overfed. If your salamander has not eaten all of their food in the couple of hours after you feed them, it means that they are full. Remove the live prey that is still in his home--if you do not, the live prey could try to bite or irritate your salamander. If you have an aquatic species of salamander, always remember to clean out uneaten food from his water or else you run the risk of dirtying the water or causing mold to grow.
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One-sentence summary -- Know that salamanders are nocturnal. Feed your salamander two to three times a week. Provide your salamander with a well-balanced meal. Monitor the amount your salamander eats. Remove uneaten food from your salamander's home.


Hinge screens are common for casement windows. The are comprised of a wooden frame and 1 screen panel. The knob is generally located in the center of 1 side of the screen frame. The screen will swing toward you on the hinges to allow for the casement window to be pushed out away from you. Simply grip the knob on the frame and gently tug it toward you. These screens are just as easy to close as they are to open! Simply press the knob toward the window to close the screen. Make sure the frame latches back into place so the screen is secure.
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One-sentence summary -- Find the knob on the screen frame. Pull the knob toward you to open the screen. Push the screen back into place to close it.


If you decide to breed your Corydoras, you of course need to know that you have both males and females. The differences are easy to notice, and you can check them by looking at your fish from above. Females will be a little larger, with a rounder and broader body, while males tend to have slightly larger pectoral fins.  If you intend to breed your Corydoras, you should try to get a ratio of two or three males for each female. If your fish are ready to spawn, you will notice the males chasing the females and mating in the T position. Once they have mated, the female will lay her eggs against the aquarium glass, or among the leaves of the plants in your tank.  In the wild, Corydoras usually spawn during the rainy season, so you can encourage mating by simulating these conditions. If you begin to notice your Corydoras engaging in spawning behavior,  perform a water change with slightly cooler water. Once you notice eggs in the tank, you should separate them from the parents. Corydoras will eat their own and each other’s eggs, so if you want new Corydoras, you should make sure the eggs and parents are in different tanks.  One way to do this is to move the Corydoras to a separate breeding tank when you start to notice them spawning. Once the females lay eggs in the tank, you can move the fish back into their regular tank, and let the eggs hatch in peace. You can also remove eggs to their own hatching and raising tank after they have been laid. Keep the water conditions as similar as possible. If the eggs were laid in the plants, you can simply transfer the plants. If you’d prefer not to remove the whole plant, it is fine to cut off the parts where the eggs are and just move that. If the eggs are on the side of the tank, remove them by rolling your finger over them. Eggs are tough, so you shouldn’t do any damage removing them this way. The eggs should hatch in three to five days. Once that happens, the new hatchlings, called “fry,” will be able to survive on their yolk sac until they start swimming freely. Once that happens, provide some brine shrimp nauplii (a type of larva) or decomposing plant material for them to eat. After about a week, you can start including microworms into their diet.
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One-sentence summary -- Check the sex of your fish. Watch for your fish to spawn. Separate the eggs from the parents. Feed the new fish.


With all of your molding ready to go, you can start nailing it into place using the pneumatic nail gun. Nail at the center line of the molding, to help prevent cracks. How far apart the nails are depends on how secure you want it to be but roughly every 1–2 feet (0.3–0.6 m) should do it. Make sure that your nails are going straight into the baseboards and not angled down into what is probably a gap or floorboards. To do this, you'll probably have to have the nail gun on the floor. If you have a nail setter, setting the nails will allow you to get a more professional appearance. Place the nail setter against the nails and tap it with a block or your hand to counter-sink the nails. You need to decide how you want the end to look since it will often stick out from the rest of the molding. There are a few options:  Consider a mitered return. This is the most common method of creating a return and probably the easiest. Miter cut the end of your last piece of molding and then carefully miter cut a tiny single piece. Place them together so that the molding turns back into the wall, creating a much cleaner look. Consider a bull-nose return. A bull-nose return is another option, although it requires more tools. Essentially, cut the molding to the length you want it to reach and then use the coping saw and sandpaper to round the end down until it looks nice on its own. Consider a wrap around with no return. Under some circumstances, it may be possible to skip returns by having the molding wrap around a doorway and continue on into the next room. This is not ideal for all homes, however, so only do this is it makes sense and looks nice.
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One-sentence summary --
Nail the molding into place. Counter-set the nails. Choose and create a return.You will run into places where the shoe molding will end, such as at doors and some corners.