Choose a nylon or polyester satin ribbon that is between 7⁄8 to 1 inch (2.2 to 2.5 cm) wide. Cut it into 4 22 in (56 cm) lengths. Singe the ends of each ribbon by holding them near a flame until the material melts or hardens.  The ribbons can be matte or shiny. The color needs to match your shoes, unless otherwise instructed by your teacher. You can use a candle or a lighter to singe the ends of the ribbons. Have a cup of water nearby in case the ribbon burns. Use your finger to fold the heel of your pointe shoe inward until it touches the sole inside the shoe. This will create a pocket on each side of the shoe. You will be tucking the ribbons into these pockets. You can also put the shoe on and "pointe" your toe. Note where the highest point of your arch is. Make sure that the right/shiny side of the ribbon is facing away from you and touching the lining. Angle the other end of the ribbon towards the toe of your shoe by about 45-degrees.  Tuck the ribbon into the crease by about 2 inches (5.1 cm), or twice the width of your thumb. This will ensure that you have enough for the next step. If you put the shoe on, keep use a pencil to mark lining where the highest point of your arch is. Do this for both sides of your foot. Use a pencil to make a mark on the lining to either side of the ribbon. This way, if the ribbon moves, you can find the placement for the ribbon again. If you put the shoe on and marked your arches, take the shoe off. Unfold the heel so that you can see the end of the ribbon again. Reposition the ribbon, if needed, so that it matches up with your pencil marks. Fold the bottom end over 2 times so that you can't see the raw edge anymore. Try to keep the folded part under 1 inch (2.5 cm), or about the width of your thumb. Start sewing just below the drawstring along the top edge of your pointe shoe, and finish sewing at the bottom, folded edge of the ribbon. Keep your stitches small and be careful not to sew through the outer satin layer or through the drawstring.  Use a strong needle and reinforced thread that matches the satin outer layer. This way, if you accidentally sew through the satin, it won't be as visible. If the lining is fused to the outer satin layer, then sew through both layers. Once again, make sure that you only sew through the lining and not through the outer satin layer. Alternatively, you can continue with a whipstitch along the bottom edge of the ribbon instead. A running stitch is where you move the needle up and down through the fabric. It is sometimes called a straight stitch. Use a whip stitch to sew up the side of the ribbon. When you reach the top edge, finish off with a running stitch. When you are back to where you started, knot and cut the thread. Use a running stitch along the top edge, even if you used a whipstitch on the bottom. The ribbon will get in the way otherwise. Working 1 ribbon at a time, fold over the bottom ends twice, then sew them to the inside of your pointe shoes. Make sure that the wrong/matte side of the ribbons is facing the inside of the shoe, and the right/shiny side is facing the outside. When you are done, do the other shoe. You don't have to do this, because you will tuck the ends in when you tie them, but they will look nice when the shoes are untied. If you do decide to do this, you will have to re-singe the cut ends so that they don't fray.
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One-sentence summary -- Cut an 88 in (220 cm) ribbon into 4 equal lengths and singe the ends. Fold the heel of your pointe shoe down towards the liner. Tuck the end of your ribbon into 1 of the pockets. Mark the lining to either side of the ribbon. Fold the end of the ribbon twice to hide the raw, singed end. Sew down the side of the ribbon using a whipstitch. Sew across the bottom of the ribbon using a running stitch. Finish sewing up and across the ribbon. Repeat the process for the other ribbons. Cut the ends of the ribbons at 45-degree angles, if desired.

Q: These types of pillows have a depression in the center where you can rest your head and support your neck by elevating it slightly. These pillows are usually made of foam so they have enough support and padding.  Look for natural latex pillows if you do not like how warm memory foam can get during the night. If you are allergic to latex, use a pillow made of memory foam instead. Avoid pillows stuffed with feathers or buckwheat, as they are often too soft to give your neck the support it needs while you sleep. Use a thicker pillow so the pillow can fill in the gap between your head and your mattress. Your pillow should allow your shoulders to sink into the bed so your neck and head are aligned and well supported. You can also try stacking pillows on top of each other so your neck feels comfortable and supported. You may adjust the pillows based on whether you sleep on your side or your back, as you may need more than one pillow to get comfortable. If you have a mattress that has a memory foam or pillow top, use a thinner pillow to fill in the smaller gap between your head and your mattress. You usually need 1-2 pillows maximum to support your neck and head properly. Avoid sleeping on too many pillows or pillows that are stacked very high, causing your head to dip into your chest or your neck to sit too far forward. Your neck should follow the natural curve of your spine when you lay down on your pillow, or pillows. Roll up the towel and slide it under your neck to support it better when you sleep. You can also use a small, roll-shaped pillow. If you are worried about the towel or pillow shifting in the night, slide it in your pillowcase so it stays in place. If you tend to sleep on your back, put a pillow or a bolster under your knees to make the position more comfortable. The pillow will help to keep your spine straight and your neck aligned while you sleep. Side sleepers often find it more comfortable to sleep with a regular pillow or a body pillow sandwiched between their legs. Hug the pillows to your chest and between your legs so you can keep your legs bent and your spine aligned.
A: Use a cervical contour pillow for good neck support. Pick a thick pillow if your mattress is firm. Go for a thin pillow if your mattress is soft. Avoid stacking pillows too high, as this can agitate your neck. Put a towel or a small pillow under your neck for extra cushioning. Slide a pillow under your knees if you sleep on your back. Place a pillow between your legs if you tend to sleep on your side.

Article: The first step in cleaning your clothes will be to treat any spots you've found. This is important, as washing the clothes before treating spots may make those spots set. If you do this, spots will be a lot harder to get out.  Use “Spot Shot” or another stain removing product on spots you think can be removed. Consult a dry cleaner. Dry cleaners may have an idea of whether you should treat a specific spot. Think about using bleach on soiled or dirty white fabrics. Depending on the age and fabric of your clothes, you‘ll have to use an appropriate water temperature to wash them. If you don’t, you might shrink the clothes or damage the material.  Wash cottons in cold, as hot water may shrink them. Wash colored fabrics in cold water, as hot water may make them run. Consider washing pre-shrunk or synthetic fabrics in warm water. After washing your clothes, you’ll need to dry them. Drying your clothes appropriately is also important in making sure you properly clean and preserve your new threads. Ultimately, if you dry your clothes improperly, you could damage them.  Always make sure to dry clothes appropriately and follow the care tag on your new clothes. There are a number of materials you should never put in the dryer, including: bathing suits, bras, and certain embellishments like sequins. Hang dry any clothes or materials you have a doubt about.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Treat any spots you may have identified. Wash your clothes using appropriate temperature water. Dry your clothes.