Q: Wait until your base coat is dry to the touch before adding more paint. This will prevent the colors of your more intricate designs from bleeding into the base coat. Some enamel paints will instruct you to leave the paint to dry for 5 to 7 days. This is necessary to set the paint, but not needed when you’re doing multiple coats of paint.
A: Let the base coat dry for at least an hour.

Q: Use the drawing you’ve created, and lay each strip of wood where it needs to be on the drawing.  To keep pieces secure while you lay them out, stick two sewing pins into the foam board at each joint. Cross them over the wood to secure it. After you’ve completely laid out one side, remove the pins one joint at a time, and glue the strips of wood together with wood glue. Use the wood glue sparingly. If you want to, you can dilute it slightly with water. As a rule of thumb, if you can see the glue, you’ve put on too much. The glue will dry in about half an hour. Just before this point, you should take a damp rag, and wipe off any excess glue. If you have the time, it’s best to leave this side to dry for an additional day or two. After that, remove it from your foam board template, and repeat the process for the other side of the bridge. Before you start to glue, pin your roadway to the foam board. Put a thin line of glue on each edge of the roadway. Push your sides against the roadway. Use straight pins around the edges of the sides to keep them in place while the bridge dries. The lateral bracings of the bridge are the cross sections, often forming “X”s, on top of the trusses.  While your bridge is still supported by pins around its sides, glue on your lateral braces. If you need to, you can use clothespins as tiny clamps. Again, let your bridge dry for as long as possible. Now, your bridge is ready for your class or competition. If you’re testing it with weights, make sure you do wait a full two days for the glue to cure.
A: Put together each side. Glue the two sides to the roadway. Add your lateral bracing. Remove your bridge from the foam board.

Q: Set a large pot (at least 8 gallons or 30 liters in size) on the stove. Pour in 5 gallons (19 liters) of water and put the lid on the pot. Turn the heat to high and heat the water until it reaches 165 degrees F (70 C). Turn off the heat. You should use a brewer's thermometer to make the corn mash and throughout the distillation process. Take the lid off of the pot and pour in 8.5 pounds (3.85 kg) of crushed corn. Set a timer and use a long-handled spoon to stir the corn constantly for 3 to 5 minutes. Once the timer goes off, set the timer for another 5 minutes. Instead of stirring constantly, you only need to stir the corn for 5 to 10 seconds once the timer goes off. Continue briefly stirring the corn every 5 minutes until the temperature reaches 152 degrees F (37 C). The corn will start to gel up when you stir it. This is because the starches are releasing and the mixture is thickening. Turn off the heat and stir in 1.5 pounds (0.7 kg) of crushed malted barley. Stir it constantly for a minute or two. Put the lid back on the pot. This corn mash will start to thin out after you've added the malted barley. It's important to use malted barley, since it has the enzymes you need to turn starch into sugar. You'll need that sugar to ferment the corn. Avoid using regular flaked barley. This will give the grain (the malted barley) a chance to turn starch into sugar. You don't need to stir it or check the temperature as it rests. You can make the yeast starter while the mash is sitting. Pour 1 tablespoon (14 g) of active dry bread yeast into a glass of warm water. The water should be 110 degrees F (43 C). Stir in 1 teaspoon of sugar until the yeast and sugar are dissolved in the water. The yeast starter will ensure that the yeast is good and active before you add it to the mash. It will also get fermentation started right away. Check the temperature of the corn mash once it's rested. It should be around 70 degrees F (20 C) before you add the yeast mixture. You can either let the mash continue to sit or use an immersion chiller to cool the mash. The immersion chiller is also known as a wort chiller.
A: Heat water in a large pot. Stir in the crushed corn. Stir the corn and check the temperature. Stir in the malted barley. Let the mash rest for 90 minutes. Make a yeast starter. Cool the mash.

Q: To do this, propel your free leg (opposite of your takeoff leg) forward as far as possible. While in the air, bring your takeoff leg forward as well so your legs are parallel to each other. To do the hitch-kick, cycle your arms and legs to counteract forward rotation in the air. For the hang, to counteract forward rotation extend your body so that your arms are above your head and your legs are hanging down. When preparing to land, swing your arms down and lift your legs up before reaching the sand. Remember that your distance is measured by the part of your body that lands the furthest back, so do your best to avoid falling backwards or touching your hands to the pit behind your body. Bring your arms forward to help you maintain your balance and keep yourself from falling over. When your heels touch the pit, press your feet down and pull your hips up. This, in addition to your momentum, will carry your body past the mark where your heels touched down.
A:
Try the sail technique if you are a beginner. Try the hitch-kick or hang if you are an advanced jumper. Swing your arms down and lift your legs up. Angle your body forward. Bend your knees to soften the impact.