Summarize the following:
The common gauges are 10, 12, 16, 20, 28, and .410.   28 is smaller than 20 which is smaller than 16.  The larger the gauge, the smaller in diameter the shell is .410 is an odd exception, just remember it is the smallest. If it is, you can only shoot slugs - preferentially "sabot slugs". If your barrel does not have grooves in it, you can shoot everything, including sabot slugs - though the slugs won't be very accurate. For small animals or clay targets, buy shotshells with small shot ("birdshot", #9 up to, say #4) in them. Not only are they the cheapest shells available, but they are gentler on your shotgun and (generally) your shoulder. For larger small animals, such as ducks up to large geese, you should buy shotshells with somewhat larger shot, say #5 up to #2. For larger animals, such as coyotes or deer, it is best to use slugs - the largest round available in a shotgun shell. Alternatively, you may choose to buy slugs for shooting large animals. Remember, sabot slugs for rifled barrels, "rifled" slugs for smooth barrels.  To fit a shotgun, Hold the shotgun with your dominant shooting hand with the barrel pointed up, rest the end of the shotgun stock in the crook of your arm, where your elbow is bent, if your trigger finger can reach the trigger comfortably then the gun fits your arm and fits you!

summary: Find out what gauge of shotgun you are buying ammo for. Find out if your shotgun barrel is rifled. Decide what you are going to use the ammo for:


Summarize the following:
Zebra finches are physically mature enough to start breeding from around 3 months of age. But it is advisable to wait until the finches are more mature at 6 months of age before breeding.  If you have the space to keep several birds, its fine to keep more hens than cocks. But if you are using indoor cages, then one pair of finches (one of either sex) in the same cage works best.   A happy male zebra finch uses a special song to woo the female, and will "bounce" on the perch to impress her. The mother finch will lay around 8 eggs. This means that when the eggs hatch, there may be 10 birds all in the same space. If it is cramped, they will be stressed. This can result in poor health or even fatalities. Provide several clean, new nests so that your zebra finches can choose the one they want to raise their family in.  Zebra finches like an enclosed nest box with a single entrance hole. Zebra finches prefer wicker nest boxes. These types of nests are not great for disinfecting afterwards, however. If you opt for wicker, consider it as a single-use box. Throw it out after each clutch of eggs and replace it with a new one.   Check out your local pet store for suitable nests. The nest box should contain a substrate that is warm and comfortable. Dried grass (hay) works well. Use caution with man-made substrates made of cotton (such as those sold for hamster bedding). These contain fibers which could get tangled around your birds’ legs or necks. Zebra finches want to feel safe while nesting. Consider attaching the nesting box to the side of the cage as near to the top as possible (rather than resting on the floor of the cage). Your finch cage should be situated in a quiet place in your house. You don’t want the nesting birds to feel threatened by potential predators, such as the house cat or dog. Take inventory of the number of eggs that have been laid without disturbing the nest. The mother will lay a clutch of about 8 eggs, at a rate of about one egg per day. The female bird starts to incubate the eggs as soon as they are laid, but both birds will take turns in keeping the eggs warm. The eggs will hatch after about 2 weeks. If three weeks have passed and the eggs have not hatched, they are infertile. Remove them quickly. Then the mother will lay new fresh eggs.  It is impossible to distinguish new eggs from the infertile ones, so it’s important to keep them separate. Separate the mating pair between clutches. Make sure to give your birds a rest before the breed again. After 21 days, the chicks will leave the nest to explore the rest of the cage. They also start to eat on their own at around 4 weeks of age.  After 6 weeks, they will develop their adult plumage and colors. Most Zebras are very good parents. They won't need any help from you. When their adult colors start to show in the plumage, the chicks should be moved to a separate cage. Talk to your local bird store about selling the chicks. The pet store may also allow you to trade the birds for seed and supplies. If you intend to breed birds regularly, then identify the chicks by using permanent bands on their legs. Use a color-coded system so you can identify who their parents are. This avoids accidental inbreeding of closely related birds in the future.  These bands should be put on the right leg once the bird is around 8 days old. There are specific bird ringing kits available from specialist avian shops, or you can find them online.

summary: Provide nesting material only if you want your birds to breed. Make sure your cage is large enough. Provide a nesting area. Place the nest box as high as possible. Keep the cage in a quiet place. Monitor the eggs. Remove infertile eggs. Watch the chicks develop. Separate the chicks from the parents after 6 weeks. Identify the chicks with leg bands.


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This is standard procedure. Your parent or legal guardian will need to call the school and explain that you cannot or will not be coming in that day. Most schools only require your parent or legal guardian to say that you will not be coming into class that day. Some stricter schools, however, might require a specific excuse, so be sure to check your school’s handbook. The idea behind this practice is to reduce the amount of unexcused absences and to keep tabs on the sorts of illnesses going around. Many schools require a parent or legal guardian of a student to call in regardless of that student's age, but some will allow a student who is a legal adult (age 18 or older) to make the phone call on his or her own behalf. For prolonged periods of illness, your school might require you, a parent, a guardian, or a family member to bring a signed doctor's note stating that you are legitimately ill and needing more time to recover. A physician's note becomes necessary after your illness extends beyond a certain period of time. The exact amount of time can vary by district, so you will need to check your school's rules to know at what point the note becomes a necessity. This amount of time usually ranges anywhere between three to ten days, with ten days being more common.
summary: Persuade a parent or guardian to call in. Call in yourself if the school allows it. Get a doctor's note.