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into the pool to create the bottom slab. Purchase plenty of shotcrete mix or gunite. Place it all in a mixing truck equipped with a big hose or dumping rail. Dump the concrete onto the rebar or spray it out with a hose attached to the truck. Use enough concrete to make the pool floor at least 6 in (15 cm) thick. To make pouring the concrete easier, begin spraying the walls as you lay concrete on the floor so you don’t have to walk back and forth across the wet mix as much. Put on some sturdy work boots you don’t mind getting wet, then step into the pool. Coat the walls to make a layer of concrete at least 6 in (15 cm) thick, Also, add concrete to the top lip of the pool marked off by plywood. Take care not to spray over any exposed pipe openings. Cap them and spray around them. Step down into the pool to access the concrete slabs. You will need a float, which is like a big broom for concrete. Push the float over the floor to level it, then do the same for the walls. You can also use a big metal straightedge to smooth out difficult spots along walls and corners. The straightedge is also helpful for smoothing out steps into a block shape. For a long-lasting pool, let the concrete cure before continuing to work on it. Purchase a big plastic sheet from a hardware store. Make sure it covers the entire pool. Flatten it against the concrete, then pin it down with stakes, bricks, and other heavy objects.  If you don’t have a good plastic cover, spray the concrete with water from a hose 3 or 4 times a day. Keep it saturated to prevent it from drying out. You can also place damp canvas or burlap over the concrete to protect it. Add water to the cover as needed to keep it moist. Glass, ceramic, and porcelain tiles are some of the most popular ways to finish a pool. Mix mortar, then spread it over the concrete with a trowel. After waiting at least 24 hours, spread grout over the mortar. Place the tiles on the grout, leaving a 1⁄8 in (0.32 cm) gap between each one.  Leave a 6 in (15 cm) gap between the lip of the pool and the top row of tiles. Make sure the mortar and grout resist chlorine and other chemicals in the water. Tile lasts up to 10 years on average and resist stains better than other finishes, though it tends to be a little more expensive. Some other finishes to try include plaster, stone, or a water-resistant epoxy paint. Alternative finishes last 5 to 8 years on average. Coping is visible and provides walking room around the pool’s edge. Tile is a common option, but you can also get concrete, marble, or stone. Each style adds a different aesthetic to your pool, but they all waterproof the exposed concrete. Wait at least 1 to 2 days for the tile and coping to cure before adding water to the pool. Install the coping with mortar and grout like you did when lining the pool’s interior. Cover the 6 in (15 cm) gap you left inside the pool, then arrange another row of coping material around the pool’s rim. You now have a concrete pool in your yard. All you need to do to make it functional is add the water. Run garden hoses from nearby water spigots to begin. Doing this takes a long time, so find alternative ways to bring in more water. Try renting a water truck to dump large amounts of water into the pool.  If you can’t get a truck to the pool, continue using a hose. It may take all day, but with a little patience, you will soon have a functional pool. Watch the pool for leaks and other issues. Empty the pool before attempting a fix.
Pour concrete Spray the walls to coat them with concrete. Smooth the concrete out with a concrete float. Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet for at least 5 days. Coat the pool basin with tile to waterproof it. Install coping around the lip of the pool. Fill the pool with water.