Problem: Article: In order for your hermit crab to want to change shells, he needs to feel healthy, comfortable, and secure. The first component of a healthy “crabitat” is a good-sized container. You need to estimate five-gallons of space for each hermit crab.  The best tanks will be made of glass, but plastic may be suitable as well. Avoid mesh or wire cages. Look for "aquariums." If you are unsure, ask a pet store sales person to assist you. Proper humidity is essential for your crabs comfort and health. Encourage your crab to change shells by maintain a relative humidity level of 70-80% in his tank.  Install a hygrometer to inform you of humidity levels. When the level drops below 75, spray a fine mist of water into your crabs cage. Maintaining the right temperature will help to maintain the humidity levels of your tank. The right temperature is also crucial is your crab’s health and happiness. Maintaining a temperature of 72-80 F (22-27 C) in your “crabitat,” will keep your hermit crab comfortable and happy, and may encourage him to change shells. Use a heating pad under your cage or install heat lamps to increase the temperature of your tank. Watching your hermit crab change shells can be fun and entertaining, but far beyond its entertainment value, having access to numerous, clean shells is essential for your crab’s survival. Help create a healthy environment by ensuring that you have at least three viable, alternative shells available per crab. Remember to be patient. Ultimately, you cannot make a hermit crab change shells. Your hermit crab will only change to a new shell when he is comfortable, growing, happy, and most of all, ready.
Summary: Check the size of your tank. Ensure proper humidity. Make sure the temperature is right. Provide enough new shells.

Problem: Article: First, determine the square footage or meterage of the space you're covering. Divide it into simple shapes as needed, such as rectangles and triangles, and then measure each piece. You can round up to the next whole foot or meter to make it easier. For instance, say you're covering 2 walls that are 20 by 12 feet (6.1 by 3.7 m), 2 walls that are 15 by 12 feet (4.6 by 3.7 m), and a triangle that has a base of 15 feet (4.6 m) and a height of 8 feet (2.4 m). Now, use the measurements to find the area of each shape. To find the area of a square or rectangle, multiply the length by the height. For a triangle that has 2 equal sides, multiply the length by the height and divide by 2.  To find the square footage or meterage (area) of the first 2 walls, multiply the length by the height: 20 feet (6.1 m) x 12 feet (3.7 m) = 240 square feet or 22.6 square meters. Multiply that by 2 to get the area for the first 2 walls: 480 square feet or 45.2 square meters. Find the area of the second 2 walls: 15 feet (4.6 m) x 12 feet (3.7 m) = 180 square feet or 17 square meters. Multiply by 2 for the 2 walls to get 360 square feet or 34 square meters. For the triangle, multiply the length times the height, and then divide by 2 to find the area: 15 feet (4.6 m) x 8 feet (2.4 m) = 120 square feet or 11 square meters / 2 = 60 square feet or 5.5 square meters. Once you've figured out each area, add them all together to determine the square footage or meterage of the area you want to paint. In this case, add the following: 480 ft2 (45.2 m2) + 360 ft2 (34 m2) + 60 ft2 (5.5 m2) = 900 ft2 (84.7 m2). Even if you've been rounding up your figures, you still may want to add 5% - 10% to your total -- you don't want to run out of paint in the middle of the job! At the recommended thickness, you'll need 1 55-pound (25-kilogram) pail to cover 250 to 375 ft2 (23 to 35 m2) for 1 coat on a porous surface, which you'll need to double for the second coat. On a smooth, filled-in surface, you'll need 1 55-pound (25-kilogram) pail to cover 700 to 800 ft2 (65 to 75 m2) for 1 coat. Again, you'll need to double the amount.  Double your square footage/meterage for 2 coats, then divide by the average square footage/meterage 1 pail covers: 900 ft2 (84.7 m2) x 2 = 1,800 ft2 (169.4 m2) / 312.5 ft2 (29 m2) = 5.8. Round up to get 6 pails. Do the same for a smooth surface: 900 ft2 (84.7 m2) x 2= 1,800 ft2 (169.4 m2); 1,800 ft2 (169.4 m2) / 750 ft2 (70 m2) = 2.4. Round up to 2.5 or 3 pails. Remember to round up to make sure you have enough paint.
Summary: Divide the area into simple shapes. Calculate the area of each simple shape. Add up your simple shape areas to get the total area. Apply your calculations to buying paint.

Problem: Article: Daylilies are difficult to start at home. Visit your local nursery and buy a few starter plants. If you know another gardener in the process of dividing daylilies, ask if they’d be willing to share some of their root divisions with you.  Root divisions are created when multi-stemmed plants are pulled apart to form single stems. Daylilies are vigorous growers and often used as ground cover. They will spread and form a dense mat after a few seasons. Daylilies prefer full sun, although they will tolerate partial shade. To get the most blooms, choose a location that receives a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. However, daylilies can easily handle 8 to 12 hours of full sun daily. Daylilies planted in the shade will bloom less frequently. Daylilies are hardy and can withstand almost any kind of soil, but they thrive in well-drained soil. To test your soil's drainage, dig a hole that is 1 ft (30 cm) wide and 1 ft (30 cm) deep. Fill the hole with water. If the water drains in 10 minutes or less, you have well-draining soil. If it takes an hour or more, your soil drainage is poor. To amend soil that drains poorly, add some organic matter like well-rotted manure, wood chips, pea gravel, or peat moss. Mix it into the existing soil thoroughly. Daylilies like slightly acidic soil. Purchase a soil testing kit from your local nursery and perform a reading by following the included instructions. Anything under 7 is considered acidic. Anything above 7 is considered alkaline.  To reduce acidity in your soil, add garden limestone. To reduce alkalinity, amend the soil with sulfur, gypsum, or sphagnum peat moss.
Summary:
Purchase nursery-grown starter plants or obtain root divisions. Choose a site that gets at least 6 hours of full sun daily. Select an area with soil that drains well. Test the soil for a pH between 6 and 7.