Summarize the following:
Different occasions and events call for different types of ‘thank you’ etiquette.  While there’s no rule that says you must follow these guidelines, they have become tradition.  It is typical to send a ‘thank you’ note or card for the following reasons:  Receiving any type of gift, including money.  The gift may be for your birthday, anniversary, graduation, house warming, holiday, etc. Attending a dinner party or special occasion (i.e. Thanksgiving) at someone else’s house. It is customary to send a handwritten 'thank you' card to anyone who has done one of the following things for your wedding.  It is also customary to send the card within 3 months of the event, although it is much easier to keep yourself up-to-date if you send cards when you receive gifts instead of waiting until after the wedding is over.  Someone who has sent you a gift for your engagement, wedding shower or wedding, including money. Someone who was a member of your wedding party (e.g. bridesmaid, maid of honour, flower girl, etc.). Someone who hosted a party of some kind in your honour (e.g. wedding shower, engagement party, etc.). Someone who helped you plan or execute your wedding, including the vendors and suppliers who made your wedding a success (e.g. baker, flower arranger, decorator, chef, etc.). Anyone who went out of their way to help you while you were preparing and planning your wedding (e.g. the neighbour who mowed your lawn, etc.). If you have been interviewed for a job, internship, or volunteer position, you should send a ‘thank you’ note or card to the interviewer as soon as possible after the interview is finished.  Make sure you personalize the card or note to be specific about the job for which you were interviewed, and even mention something specific from the interview. Ensure that you’ve spelled everyone’s name properly.  There would be nothing worse than sending a ‘thank you’ note after an interview and spelling the interviewer’s name wrong. Use formal greetings in your ‘thank you’ note unless the interviewer introduced themselves by their first name and insisted you call them that. In the case of interview ‘thank you’ notes, it is not uncommon to send a personal email rather than an actual card or letter.  Logistically this might be the better option if physically getting a card or a note to the interviewer is difficult or might take too long. Receiving any type of financial assistance in university or college is awesome.  Many of the scholarships and bursaries provided to students come from donations. Whether donated from an individual, family, estate or organization, sending a ‘thank you’ note for providing you with the funds is a great way to show your appreciation.  If the scholarship or bursary was awarded via your school, the department who choose the recipients should be able to assist you in obtaining a mailing address for where to send the ‘thank you’ note. Since these are not people you know personally, keep the ‘thank you’ letter formal and elegant, rather than casual. Before sending the letter make sure you check (and double-check) that there are no spelling or grammar errors.  You may even want someone else to read it over for you in case you’ve missed something. ‘Thank you’ notes like this are best sent via formal business letter on nice paper, as opposed to a handwritten note or card.

summary: Be aware of ‘thank you’ etiquette. Send wedding ‘thank you’ cards within 3 months. Write a ‘thank you’ note for an interview immediately. Create a personal ‘thank you’ to the donors of a bursary, grant or scholarship.


Summarize the following:
Again, steel wool or 600 to 1200-grit sandpaper will work to remove any loose rust, scarring, or pitting from the gun metal. If you plan to remove the gun's finish from the factory before bluing, some recommend using a phosphoric acid-based automotive rust remover to do so. Others use white vinegar, which contains acetic acid, for this purpose. The 19th-century gunsmiths who used this process likely did not have access to the chemicals used to clean gun metal for hot bluing, but the chemical cleaning improves the effectiveness of the bluing. You can use any of the chemicals described in the cleaning step for hot bluing and then rinse the cleaner off in the manner described in the rinsing step. The acid solution actually encourages the metal to rust, but to do so uniformly.  Instead of coating the parts with the acid solution, you can instead place an opened container of the acid solution with the gun parts in a cabinet and seal it for a period of 12 hours. The acid evaporates from its container and condenses around the gun metal. This method is called fume bluing. Another variation is to coat the gun metal parts with the rust bluing solution and then put them into a fume cabinet (or, in this case, a damp cabinet) for the same 12 hours. Often, a first layer is applied as a primer before coating the parts a second time and then placing them in the damp cabinet. This stops the rusting process by removing the acid solution. The surface rust is normally removed with a carding brush or wheel, which features very soft and thin wire bristles. In some cases, the metal may develop as deep a coloring as it can, making further bluing treatments unnecessary and ineffective. The oil inhibits the formation of rust and protects the metal finish from dirt, sweat, body oil, and wear. Once you've applied the oil, let the parts stand overnight before assembling.

summary: Polish the parts to be blued. Clean away any dirt, oil, or grease that remains chemically. Coat the gun metal parts with a mixture of hydrochloric and nitric acid. Immerse the gun metal parts in boiling distilled water. Scrub away the red oxide rust that has formed, leaving the black oxide finish underneath. Repeat the acid treatment, boiling, and scrubbing until you have achieved the desired level of bluing. Coat the gun parts with oil.


Summarize the following:
You can use a basin, sink, or bathtub. The water should be a little warmer than room temperature. You’ll need at least 1 quart (0.95 L) of water. or mild conditioner to the water. You’ll need to add roughly 1 tablespoon (15 mL) of baby shampoo for every 1 quart (0.95 L) of water.  The water should take on a slick, soapy consistency once the shampoo is stirred into the water. Baby shampoo helps relax the fibers in your material, making them easier to stretch. Make sure the material is fully immersed in the water and give it at least half an hour to ensure the soap has time to penetrate the spandex material. Use a twisting and squeezing motion until the fabric stops dripping. Don’t rinse the garment, because the soap will keep relaxing the elastic fibers as you stretch the fabric. If you still need to remove more moisture, roll the material between 2 towels and leave it for about 10 minutes. The baby shampoo should allow you to easily stretch the spandex past its normal limits. Once you have it stretched as much as you can, place heavy objects like books, paperweights, or free weights on the edges of the fabric to hold it in place. Make sure your heavy objects won’t be damaged by the moisture from the fabric. You should also avoid using anything painted or varnished, like wood, since this can transfer stains onto your material. If you take off the weights before the spandex material has dried, the fibers will begin to shorten and the fabric will return to its original shape. It will probably take about an hour for the fabric to dry completely.
summary: Fill a basin with water of about 85–90 °F (29–32 °C). Add baby shampoo Soak the fabric in the soapy water for about 30 minutes. Squeeze the fabric tightly to wring out excess moisture. Stretch out the fabric and hold it in place with 3–5 lb (1.4–2.3 kg) weights. Allow the fabric to sit for an hour or until it is completely dry.