Many banks sell silver, so you can start your search for a dealer by visiting your local branch. While you should feel free to compare prices, banks often sell their silver at less of a markup than other dealers. Even if your bank does not sell silver, they will likely be able to give you reliable advice on trusted dealers in your community.  You can also search online to see if you can find reliable information about silver dealers in your area. Make sure you’re getting your information from a site you can trust, like that of a known news organization in your area. If you’ve found a dealer you’re interested in but have reservations, contact your local consumer protection bureau or your state’s attorney general to see if any complaints have been filed against the dealer. There are many disreputable dealers of silver online and many scams. Additionally, it can be very expensive to ship silver bars, which greatly adds to the cost of purchasing the bars themselves. The spot price of silver is the current price of the metal on the market. Silver bars are usually sold a little over this price. The more you know about the current price of silver, the surer you can be that you’re getting a good deal for the money you’re paying. If the dealer is asking well over the spot price, be extremely cautious when deciding whether or not to make the purchase. Disreputable dealers will try to make false claims about how valuable their bars are. A typical sign that a dealer is unreliable is that they make claims about the value of their bars that is very out of line with the current silver market. Do not do business with dealers who tell you information that your research proves to be false.
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One-sentence summary -- Ask your bank about trusted silver dealers near you. Avoid shopping for silver online. Research the spot price of silver before making a deal. Watch out for false claims from dealers.


The numbers 1-10 in Polish use a majority of the letters from the Polish alphabet. Ordinarily, each letter in Polish has just one sound associated with it (unlike  English, where letters like e, a, s, and many others can be pronounced several ways). A few letters in Polish, including several vowels, can have diacritics (small marks) that change how they are pronounced.   a is like in the "a" “cat”  e sounds like the “e” in “red”  ą, and ę sound like nasalized versions of the a and e sounds  i is like “beet” except when it comes before e. The letters ie together have the sound “ye.”  ó and u are pronounced the same, like the “oo” in “boot”  y is pronounced like the "y" in “syllable” Several Polish consonants (b, d, f, h, k, l, p, n, t and z) sound basically the same as corresponding English consonants. Other consonants look familiar, but are pronounced differently, and a few have diacritics.   c is a “ts” sound like at the end of “bats”  ć sounds like the “ch” sound in words like “cheap” and “chipper”  g sounds like a hard “g” in English, like in “give”  j sounds like the beginning of “yellow” or “yet”  ł is pronounced like the “w” in “water”  ń sounds like the “ny” in words like “canyon”  r in Polish is rolled, like in Spanish  s is pronounced like the “s” in words like “salad,” not with a “z” sound like in words such as “laser”  ś sounds like the “sh” sound in “shift” or “shame”  w is pronounced like the English “v” in words like “vat” or “van,” except at the end of words, when it sounds like “f”  ź sounds roughly like the “zh” sound in “azure” These can look intimidating, but they only have one sound--once you get the hang of them, just treat the clusters as though they were individual letters.   ci and cz all sound ‘’ć’’ and like the “ch” sound in words like “cheap” and “chipper”  ch together make the sound like at the end of “loch”  dzi, dź, and dż sound like the “j” at the beginning of “jab”  rz is either like the “zh” sound in “azure” at the beginning of a word, or a “sh” sound when it comes after other letters  si and sz sound like ś, and like the “sh” sound in “shift” or “shame”  szcz sounds like “sh” and “ch” running together as a single sound, as in “fresh cheese” said quickly  ż and zi sound like ‘’ź’’, roughly like the “zh” sound in “azure” Accent (where the stress in a word falls) is also very regular in Polish. In almost every case, it falls on the next-to-last (penultimate) syllable. With the letter sounds and word stress being so regular, you’ll be able to see right away how to say most words in Polish, including the numbers.
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One-sentence summary -- Study the pronunciation of Polish vowels. Practice pronouncing Polish consonants. Learn the Polish consonant clusters. Learn how words are accented in Polish.


After opening your can of paint, mix it thoroughly, then pour enough of it to do the job into a separate, clean container. If the paint has been stored for any length of time, it is a good idea to strain it through a paint filter to remove any lumps of hardened paint which may have formed. These lumps can stop up the siphon tube or the metering valve, causing the flow of paint to stop. The exact ratio of paint to thinner will depend on your paint, sprayer, and nozzle type, but the paint should usually be thinned by about 15 to 20% for a good flow. Notice how thin the paint looks when you use an aerosol spray paint; this will give you an idea of what you are looking for. Whether the spray cup attaches to the bottom of the sprayer with a clamping assembly and hooks or screws on, be sure to attach it securely; you do not want the spray cup to drop off suddenly while in use. Practice moving the spray gun in a side to side, or up and down sweeping motion, parallel to the surface. If you have never used this type of paint applicator before, practice holding and swinging it for a moment to get a feel for the balance and weight. Keep the sprayer moving whenever the trigger is squeezed to avoid drips and runs caused by over application. It’s best to test-paint a piece of scrap wood or cardboard before tackling the main job. This way, you can adjust the nozzle if necessary to get a finer spray pattern. This way, the "feathered" edges of the spray pattern don’t leave thin spots in your paint job. Watch for drips and runs, moving fast enough to keep the paint from getting thick as you spray. Do not allow the sprayer to sit with paint in it; if you need a break, remove the cup and spray some thinner through the sprayer before leaving it unused. For most paints, a good, even "wet" coat is sufficient, but a second coat may give a more durable finish. Sanding between coats is recommended for varnishes, polyurethane finishes, and other glossy paints to improve the bond between the coats.
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One-sentence summary --
Mix enough paint to do your project. Thin the paint with a suitable thinner. Fill the paint cup about 2/3 of the way with paint and lock it onto the sprayer. Hold the sprayer about 5–10 inches (12.7–25.4 cm) from the surface. Squeeze the trigger to spray the paint. Overlap each pass slightly. Refill the paint cup as needed until the project is done. Allow the paint to dry, then re coat if desired.