INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Most people are more concerned about differentiating real leather from faux, or fake leather. But serious connoisseurs know that there are actually multiple grades of real leather, of which "Genuine Leather" is actually the second lowest grade. From most luxurious to least, the other types of real leather are:  Full Grain Leather Top Grain Leather Genuine Leather Bonded Leather Full grain leather only uses the very highest (closest to the air) layer of skin, which is the toughest, most durable, and most beloved. It is left unfinished, meaning it has completely unique characteristics, creases, and coloring. Because of the smaller amount of leather on the surface of each animal and the difficulty of working with full grain toughness, the price is understandably high. Be aware that some manufacturers will report something is "made with full grain leather" even if only parts of the chair or sofa are full grain. This is another reason why buying without seeing the good is rarely recommended. The most common "luxury" leather is top grain, which takes the layer of skin just below full grain and works it lightly to remove imperfections. It is smoother and more consistent than full grain, but easier to work as well, keeping the price down. While not as durable as full grain, it is still a strong, well-crafted leather. Genuine leather is made by stripping off the harder, more expensive grains from the top, then using the softer, easier to work leather underneath. It is not as durable as full or top grain, but it is much cheaper since it can be manufactured into a variety of goods with ease. Remember -- genuine leather is a specific grade, not the phrase for real leather. If you request genuine leather in a leather shop, they will have a specific type of product in mind. While bonded leather is still leather, it isn't an unbroken or regular piece of animal skin. Instead, the shavings from all the other leather grades are collected, ground up, and mixed with an adhesive liquid to make a piece of leather. Though cheap, the quality is severely lacking. Because the quality is less impressive, bonded leather is often used for book covers and other smaller, less worn items.

SUMMARY: Understand that "Genuine Leather" is only one kind of real, legitimate leather on the market. Purchase "full grain" leather for only for the most high-end products. Search for "top grain leather" to get high-quality goods at a much more reasonable price. Know that "genuine leather" usually has a suede side or feeling to it. Stay away from "bonded leather," which is made from ground up and glued leather shavings.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Attach crochet thread to your crochet hook using a slipknot, then work up 21 chain stitches.  Check the "Tips" section for information on making slip knots and chain stitches. You can vary the length of this foundation chain, but make sure that your chains equal a number divisible by your intended groupings plus one. A standard grouping will be five stitches, so your chain count should be a multiple of five plus one extra: 21, 26, 31, 36, etc. The extra chain will be your turning chain. You won't work into it, so in essence, it only exists to make the edge of  the lace look smoother. Crochet thread will give your lace a light, delicate appearance. If you want to crochet thicker lace, though, you can use a lightweight or worsted weight yarn instead of thread. Keep in mind that a heavier yarn will require a larger crochet hook, as well. Insert the hook into the second chain from the hook, wrap the yarn over the hook, and draw the loop back through to the front of the stitch. Slide the tip of a knitting needle or dowel into this loop. The size of your knitting needle or dowel will determine how large your loops are and how big your rows will be. A larger circumference will create bigger lace rows. Draw up loose loops in the remaining 19 stitches of your foundation chain. Slide the needle across the chain and into each loop, gathering all 20 loops onto the handle of the needle at the same time. For each stitch, insert the hook into stitch, yarn over it, and draw a loop up through to the front. Insert the knitting needle into that loop before moving onto the next stitch. Slide your crochet needle underneath the first five loops. Make one chain stitch through the top of this grouping to close it. You can either remove the knitting needle as you work on your groupings or keep it in. Do whichever option feels easiest for you. Work five single crochets into the middle of all five loops in your grouping.  See the "Tips" section for instructions on single crocheting. Note that the number of single crochets you make will depend on the number of loops in your grouping. Five loops in your grouping means five single crochets; four loops in your grouping would mean four single crochets, and so on. This step completes your first grouping. Insert your hook through the next five loops, chain one, then single crochet through the centers five times.  Continue this step until you have created groupings for all of your original loops across the row. For a set of 20 loops, you will have four groupings. The single crochets you worked up in your first row will provide the base for your second row. Draw up loose loops from each of these single crochet stitches to start your second row, using the same technique used for the first row.  Insert the crochet hook through the stitch, yarn over, and pull the loop through to the front. Slide this loop onto the knitting needle before moving onto the next stitch. This row should have the same number of loops in it as your first row. As before, you need to gather the loops into groupings and single crochet into each grouping. Do this across the row until you run out of loops.  Insert your crochet hook into five loops, chain one, then single crochet five times into the middles of all the loops on your hook. Repeat across the row. Follow this same pattern to create as many rows of broomstick lace you need. Draw up loose loops from the stitches in the previous row and form groupings from those loops. When you reach the end of your lace piece, cut the yarn, leaving a 2-inch (5-cm) tail. Pull this tail through the loop on your hook to fasten off the crochet thread. Any remaining excess should be carefully woven into the back of the piece to hide it from sight and further secure the thread.

SUMMARY:
Work up a foundation chain. Draw up loose loops. Repeat across the chain. Gather a grouping. Single crochet into the grouping space. Repeat across the row. Work up a second row. Gather and single crochet into the loops. Repeat as needed. Fasten off the thread.