Problem: Article: Take a clean, dry cloth and run it over the section of the peeling tape that you’re going to patch. Rub lightly to remove most of the dust or debris that’s covering the area that you’re going to cover. Let any chunks of drywall or chips of paint fall to the floor.  This method is preferred if you have a very minor peel that isn’t exposing a lot of drywall. This repair won’t last forever, but it will keep smaller issues from getting worse. If a length of tape longer than 1 foot (0.30 m) is coming off, consider replacing it entirely. If you’re worried about creating a mess on your floor, put a drop cloth down under the area that you’re patching. You can use standard setting compound if you want, but fast-setting joint compound will keep moisture from getting trapped in the walls. Use your putty knife to scrape some putty out of the container. Place your putty knife in the mud pan and slide your loaded blade over the sharp interior-edge of the mud pan to keep the compound inside.  You can really use any kind of spackling paste to cover a hole in drywall, but fast-setting joint compound will be stronger and won’t take as long to dry. Standard setting compound has to be mixed with water until it becomes a thick paste. If the hole created by your peeling tape is less than 1 foot (0.30 m) in length, you won’t need more than 1 scoop of joint compound. Use the blade of your putty knife to scoop some joint compound out of the pan. Place the blade at the top or end of the gap in your wall. Keep the blade pressed down with your index finger and drag your putty knife at a 45-degree angle over the hole. Press firmly, but softly enough to leave joint compound behind. Continue adding compound until you’ve covered the hole and the compound is mostly flat.  Cover the hole 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) in both directions of the tear to keep the tape from continuing to peel in the near-future. Scrape an area 2-3 times to add additional pressure if you want to force the compound all the way into the gap. Your fast-setting dry compound may list the waiting time anywhere from 30 minutes to 6 hours on the packaging. To be on the safe side, give the compound at least 12 hours to completely dry out. Your compound is dry when it’s entirely gray in color, and totally dry when you touch it.  After 12 hours, run your palm over the joint compound. If it’s chalky and dry, you’re ready to move on. The deeper the hole in your wall is, the longer you need to wait. Twelve hours should be more than enough time to dry the fast-setting compound out. Use a sheet of sandpaper or a sanding sponge to firmly remove layers of joint compound. Scrape using back-and-forth strokes in the same direction that you applied the joint compound. Remove any larger chunks of compound that are sticking out and stop once the area that you’ve patched is flush with your wall.  You can tell if the joint compound is flush with the wall by running your hand over it. If you feel bumps or grooves in the wall when you run your hand over the patched wall, then you aren’t done sanding. It doesn’t need to be perfect. If it’s flat enough for you and the peeling tape is completely covered, it should be fine. that you patched using a brush or roller. After sanding the area, wipe the area you patched with a clean cloth before repainting it. Fill a paint tray with a paint that matches the color on your walls, then paint the patched area with a brush or roller. If the paint looks uneven and like it’s the wrong color, consider repainting the entire wall for a more uniform look. Depending on the type of paint, size of the patch, and type of joint compound, you may need to prime the wall first to keep the compound from showing through.
Summary: Use a clean cloth to wipe the wall down. Add fast-setting joint compound to a mud pan with a putty knife. Spread the joint compound over the peel and scrape it flat. Wait at least 12 hours for the fast-setting joint compound to dry. Sand the surface that you’ve patched with 120-grit sandpaper. Paint the area

Problem: Article: Unless you are a bartender, you probably don't have a muddler lying around, but muddling the mint is an essential part of making a good mojito. If you don't have a muddler, you can improvise with a wooden spoon or even the end of a rolling pin. If you do have a muddler, make sure it is made of unfinished wood. Anything that has been varnished or lacquered will eventually wear down, and the finish will end up in your drinks. You can add the sugar as well, as the rough texture can actually help the muddling process. Make sure the glass you are using isn't thin or delicate or it could break during the process.  Make sure you remove the leaves from the stems, as these will also give the drink a bitter taste.  Spearmint is the type of mint most often used in a mojito, but you can experiment with peppermint or pineapple mint for different flavors. You do not want to shred, crush, or mince the leaves, as this will release the chlorophyll contained in the veins of the leaf. Chlorophyll is very bitter and will make your virgin mojito taste quite unpleasant. The leaves should remain whole, crumpled and maybe with a few tears. The purpose of muddling is to release the fragrant and tasty oils in the leaves, and roughing them up a bit will allow them to seep out and infuse your drink. Muddling the leaves with sugar will allow the oils to seep into the sugar, adding more depth to the drink. This is better than chopping the mint, which would release the chlorophyll, and also leave little bits of mint floating around in your beverage. Getting a piece of mint caught in your throat might spoil the fun of drinking a mojito.
Summary:
Find a muddling tool. Place the mint in the bottom of a thick, sturdy glass that won't break. Press the muddler gently onto the mint leaves and twist several times. Stop when you smell mint, or when the leaves begin to tear. Crumple the leaves in your hands if you are absolutely opposed to muddling.