INPUT ARTICLE: Article: You will need:  Backhoe Laser transit and grade pole 4" Sch. 40 PVC pipe(and fittings if needed) 4" ASTM D2729 perforated pipe 4"ASTM D3034 pipe and fittings 4" Sch. 40 vent caps and test caps PVC primer and glue Saw (either hand saw or cordless reciprocating saw) Hammer drill and bits(to go through wall if necessary) Hydraulic cement (to seal around pipe if going through wall) Shovel Inch-and-a-half washed stone (quantity depends on system size) Tape measures (regular and also at least a 100' tape) Septic fabric (cut roll to 3' long or so) Septic tank and risers (concrete, or plastic if allowed) Con-Seal (for concrete) or silicone caulk (for plastic) to seal risers Septic filter (ex. Zoeller 170 or similar) if required. distribution box (either concrete, or plastic, if running more than two laterals.) Excavate to at least 2 feet deep and drill a hole through the wall, or go deeper and go under the footing, whichever is desired, or necessary. Plan for the flow to go downhill from here, as this is exactly what a gravity fed system is all about. It does not use a mechanical means other than gravity to discharge the waste from the tank to the drain field. Pipe 4" Sch. 40 going a foot through the wall or under the footing, and to a minimum of five feet outside the building toward the tank. Set it level where it's going through the wall or under the footing, and from there run with about an 1/8" per foot of pitch (slope) toward the septic tank. Go further or all the way into the tank if required. If not, switch to 4" 3034 with the appropriate adapter and pipe toward the tank with 3034.  Be sure to put a test cap on the end going into the building. If going through the wall, seal around the hole with hydraulic cement, inside and out. Don't run too much pitch going out to the tank. If there's too much, the water runs away faster than the solids, and the solids may get left in the pipe. Also, there may not be enough pitch to get to the drain field, depending on the depth your drain field is, and how close it will be to the outlet of the tank. Use the laser transit and "shoot" the top of the pipe going out to the tank. Measure the distance from the top of the inlet, to the bottom of the tank. Add this (go up on the grade pole) plus 1 1/2" to the number you shot off the top of the pipe.  The grade pole is now set to the depth that you need. Proceed to use this to excavate the hole to the appropriate depth. Lay out and excavate your leech field as it has been determined by the test done in the permit process. When laying out and excavating, remember to maintain a positive flow between the tank and the drain field. This is required to hold the pipe steady. See your local health requirements for the size of embedment needed and the size of gravel. The perforated pipe in a gravity drain field has no slope end to end and has capped ends. All areas depending on the rules of the local health department will require a special filter fabric, newspaper, four inches of straw or untreated building paper to cover the drain rock before backfilling.

SUMMARY: Assemble the equipment and tools needed for excavation. Find where you want to go into the building relative to where you want to place the septic tank. Excavate a hole large enough to set the concrete aerobic tank below ground. Place (in most jurisdictions) "inch-and-a-half washed drain rock" from a nearby gravel pit around the pipe. Cover up the pipe and tank once you have a green tag from the health inspector.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Ensure that you have an oven rack in the center of the oven before you turn the oven on. Leave the oven to preheat while you slice the onions. into 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) thick slices and lay them in a cast-iron skillet. Use a yellow onion if you'd like a sweeter flavor or slice a red onion for a sharper taste. Arrange the sliced onion in a single layer in the skillet. For a more delicate flavor, use 5 shallots instead. Peel the shallots and slice each in 1/2. Then, spread them in the skillet. Put the skillet into the preheated oven and cook the links for 20 to 30 minutes. Use tongs to carefully turn each link halfway through the cooking time. When you think they're done roasting, insert an instant-read meat thermometer into a link to see if it's reached 160 °F (71 °C). The time it takes to roast the chorizo will depend on the brand and size of the links. Begin checking them after they've cooked for 20 minutes. Turn off the oven and wear oven mitts to remove the hot skillet. Transfer the chorizo links to plates and serve them with soft cheese, crusty bread, and roasted vegetables. Put leftover links in an airtight container and refrigerate them for up to 4 days.

SUMMARY: Preheat the oven to 400 °F (204 °C). Cut 1 onion Roast the chorizo with onions until they reach 160 °F (71 °C). Serve the chorizo with crusty bread or roasted vegetables.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: This can be found either from information in your owner's manual or on the Internet. You should refer to your electrical schematic for help. You want to make sure that there are no breaks in the connection from the fuse box to the switch. If you did not find a schematic, it might be easier to trace the wiring from the switch back to the fuse box to look for any breaks in the connection. Attach the leads of the multi-meter to where the electrical wires come into the switch and set the meter to D/C volts. It should read 12 volts. This is the path that a signal will travel to move your window when you press the switch. Any breaks or loose connections in this path will prevent your motor from functioning properly. Attach the leads of the multi-meter to where the electrical wires come into the motor. Again, set it to D/C volts and it should read 12 volts. If there are any loose or corroded connections in the circuit they will disrupt the signal and cause your window to malfunction. Push any connectors or wiring harnesses together tightly, and clean any corrosion away with a wire brush or similar tool. . If your problem was in the circuitry and is now fixed, then your window should freely roll up and down without any restrictions or delays.

SUMMARY:
Find an electrical schematic of your vehicle. Trace the wiring from the fuse panel to the switch. Use a multi-meter to confirm that the switch is getting 12V of power. Trace the wiring from the switch to the motor. Use the multi-meter to confirm that the motor is getting 12V of power. Look for any interrupted voltage caused by a loose connector or corrosion. Fix the connector or corroded areas. Test the window again.