There are some typical geeky interests, but you can be interested in anything and still be considered a geek. You may already have something you're interested in—like baseball, model airplanes, or the Harry Potter series. If not, explore some things that might interest you. Take your time to explore until you find something you really love. You may have trouble thinking of potential interests, and that's okay. You can explore some popular geeky interests—like video games. Minecraft, Portal, and Halo are popular with geeks. Play the game or games often until you get really good at it. Then, learn everything about the game that you can. You could also play tabletop or card games, like Dungeons and Dragons and Magic: The Gathering. It doesn't matter what—just read what interests you. And don't be ashamed of what you read. You could read very literary books—like books by Jane Austen. Or, you can read genre fiction—like horror and science fiction. DC and Marvel comics are popular among geeks if books aren't your thing. Don't be afraid to carry a book with you everywhere you go. A large part of the rise of geeks was due to technology. If you love robots and computers, dive into that interest! If you prefer physics or chemistry, take that interest beyond the classroom. This is an interest that could also be beneficial for your future.  Learn website and mobile development. You could learn to make your own websites and mobile apps. Research and learn how to build robots. Look for a robotics club in your area. It's okay if you weren't that great in science at school. Invest in your interest, and you will learn a lot over time. This is a hobby that is pretty simple to do, but depending on what you're interested in, it could be costly. If you think vintage photographs are awesome, take a weekly trip to your local thrift shop. If coffee mugs with #1 Dad are cool to you, begin collecting those. You can collect anything you think is awesome. Try to learn about what you collect as you accumulate more items. Consider your budget before choosing an item to collect.
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One-sentence summary -- Find what you are truly interested in. Play video games. Read a lot of books and comics. Get interested in science and technology. Collect a certain item.

Q: As soon as you notice a jam beginning to form, stop the shredder to keep things from getting any worse. This gives you a chance to slow down, assess the situation and prepare to fix the jam. Jamming signs to be watchful for include a slowing down of the paper moving through the shredder, an outright stop, and a whirring, "straining" noise that should be readily obvious. One reason that shredders sometimes jam is that there isn't anywhere for the paper to go once it is shredded because the wastebasket is full. If your wastebasket is full, try emptying it and re-trying which may be enough to resolve your jam. If the jam still won't clear, proceed to the following steps. Because jamming is a common problem, most modern shredders come with a built-in option to run in reverse. Switch the shredder to its "reverse" option (usually there is a well-marked button on the top of the shredder) before plugging it back in. Ensure your fingers or any other tools are not near the shredder opening when you plug it in. Reversing the shredder will usually clear a minor jam in a matter of seconds. However, in especially bad cases, the shredder may jam again when it runs in reverse. In this case, unplug the shredder again, switch it to "auto" or "forward" (the precise option may vary on your shredder) and plug it back in. Be prepared to alternate between auto and reverse as needed. A jam that's bad enough to gum up your shredder when it runs in reverse may be bad enough to jam it yet again when it runs forward for the second time. However, by switching between forward and reverse, it's almost always possible to gradually work your paper out of a jammed shredder. One of the most common reasons for a shredder jam is simply that too much paper was fed into the shredder at once. Once you clear your jam, try shredding a smaller amount of paper if this was the cause for the jam, the smaller second load should pass through with less difficulty. If you still can't seem to get your jam to clear after alternating between reverse and auto/forward, you may have an extra-severe jam that needs to be cleared manually. Never fear, consult the section below for further help.
A: Unplug the shredder. If needed, empty the wastebasket. Switch the shredder to "reverse" and plug it back in. If the shredder jams in reverse, switch back to auto/forward. Reduce the thickness of your load before re-shredding.

Article: Secure the bottom front (tack) of the mainsail and jib to their respective shackles on the boom and the bow of the boat.  There will be a small line (outhaul) attaching the rear corner of the mainsail (clew) to the end of the boom. Pull it so the foot of the main is taut, and cleat. This helps the mainsail have a smooth shape for the air flowing over it. Hoist the mainsail by pulling down on its halyard until it stops. It will be flapping around (luffing) like crazy, but that's OK for a short period of time. (Excessive luffing will drastically reduce the life and durability of the sail). The leading edge of the sail (luff) must be tight enough to remove folds, but not so tight as to create vertical creases in the sail. There will be a cleat in the vicinity of the halyard where it comes down from the top of the mast. Cleat the halyard. Using the jib halyard, raise the front sail (jib, genoa or simply the headsail), and cleat the halyard off. Both sails will be luffing freely now. Sails are always raised mainsail first, then the jib, because it's easier to point the boat into the wind using the main. Sailboats cannot sail directly into the wind. As shown above, the red zone in the diagram indicates a "no go" zone when under sail. To sail to windward, a sailing vessel must sail about 45-50 degrees off the wind and change direction by tacking (or zig-zag).  Turn the boat to the left (port) or right (starboard) so it's about 90 degrees off the wind. This is known as a beam reach. Pull on the main sheet (trimming) until the sail is around 45 degrees away from straight back (aft). This is a safe place for the main while you trim the jib. You will start moving and tilting (heeling) away from the wind. A heel of more than 20 degrees usually indicates that you're being overpowered. Releasing the mainsheet momentarily (breaking the main) will lessen the amount of heel, and you will return to a more comfortable sailing angle of 10 to 15 degrees. Although the mainsail is hoisted first, it is the jib that is trimmed first. There are two jib sheets, one for each side of the boat. Pull on the jib sheet on the side away from the wind (leeward side). This is the active sheet while the other is called the lazy sheet. The jib will form a curve or pocket; trim the sail until the front edge just stops luffing. Keep your hand on the tiller (or helm) and stay on course! Let out the main sheet until the front edge just starts to luff, then pull it back just until it stops.  If you or the wind hasn't changed direction, this is the most efficient place to set the sails. If anything changes, you have to adjust them in response. You have just entered the world of the sailor, and you will have to learn to do many things at once, or suffer the consequences.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Attach the sails. Adjust your heading and sail trim for the wind. Trim the jib sheets. Trim the mainsail.