Q: Insects, worms, and other animal food is most safely obtained at a pet store or aquarium store, while plant matter should be organically grown away from roadside exhaust. If a local aquarium expert tells you that collecting animals or plants from outdoors is safe in your area, then you may follow her advice. Otherwise, understand that collecting these supplements yourself carries the risk of disease, parasites, or harmful chemicals. One to three times a week, give your fish frozen or live insects and other animal foods instead of their usual feeding. Always research your fish species' needs or ask an expert before selecting a food, as some foods can transmit disease or cause digestive issues when fed to certain species. Common foods available at pet shops include bloodworms, tubifex worms, daphnia, and brine shrimp. As with any feeding, only provide tiny amounts of food; enough to eat within 30 seconds may be enough for some species.   Warning: Freeze-dried foods are another option, but should only be used occasionally due to the digestive issues large amounts can cause in some species, such as bettas.  Avoid live tubifex worms, even ones sold at pet stores and raised on fish farms. They are known to cause diseases in many species, although the frozen variety is typically safe. Herbivores and omnivores will likely be healthier and more colorful if you supplement their diet with the occasional plant matter, and even many carnivorous species can eat plants for useful nutrients. As always, research your fish species online before feeding it a new food. You can attach a piece of vegetable inside the tank with a vegetable clip, or cut it into small pieces to feed to your fish. Be sure to remove any uneaten vegetables within 48 hours, or it will start to rot in your tank.  Carrots, zucchini, cucumbers, carrots, lettuce, and peas are just a few of the vegetables your fish might enjoy. Feed once every few days or as advised for your species. Using spirulina powder, infusoria, algae, or other plant matter sold at aquarium shops is another option, and a necessary one for tiny, juvenile fish too small to eat vegetable pieces. As long as the tank's surface or walls doesn't become overgrown with algae, you may add it according to instructions once or twice a day. Different animals or vegetables provide different vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients. Alternate between two or three types of animal or meat (for carnivorous fish) or vegetables (for other fish) for a better chance at providing all the requirements for healthy fish. If your fish's bright colors fade, they become less active, or you notice other signs of poor health, your fish may be lacking certain nutrients. It's best to seek expert advice to gain a better idea of which vitamins or minerals your fish needs, or to identify other problems. Fish may need these supplements during times of stress, such as when new fish are introduced to the tank. If you are raising live food yourself, or purchasing live food from pet shops, you may feed them mineral or vitamin supplements which then get digested by the predator fish. This technique is called "gut loading." Newborn fish, or fish fry, are often too small to eat ordinary fish food. Because their dietary needs are often different than the adult fish, and they may require feeding every few hours, it's vital to seek specific advice based on the species. Research information online to make sure your fish fry have the best chance of survival.
A: Obtain these supplements from safe sources. Feed carnivorous fish live or frozen animals. Feed most fish vegetables or algae. Feed your fish a variety of these supplements for greater health. Provide straight vitamins or minerals if you notice problems. Seek specific advice for raising newborn fish.

Q: Strong, healthy plants will be more resistant to diseases of all kinds, so the fight against rose disease starts at planting time. Select healthy rose plants that have sturdy-looking leaves and stems and don’t show any signs of disease or pests. Look to see if any of the leaves have black spots, red leaves, or chew marks. These are all signs of disease or infestation. Despite their name, Midnight Blue roses actually prefer sun to shade. They need about 6 hours of direct sunlight a day to be at their best, though they will still survive in very bright shade. Container rose bushes should receive a minimum of 4 hours of direct sunlight a day. The hole needs to be wide enough and deep enough to hold the roots when they're all the way spread out. Aim for a size of about 2 feet (60 cm) wide and 2 feet (60 cm) deep.  If you come across weeds or stones as you’re digging, use a garden fork to turn the soil over and remove them. Pull up anything that won't allow the roses’ roots to venture freely. If planting multiple shrubs, space them at least 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) apart to allow space for growth. Roses love soil that is enriched by manure, so incorporate some into the soil where you intend to plant your rose bush. You can purchase well-rotted manure at your local garden store.  Be sure the manure is at least 3-4 years old, since new manure can burn the roots of roses.  Try to incorporate roughly a bucket full of manure per square meter of soil. Alternatively, you can use decomposed compost instead of manure. Organic mulch should be spread over the dirt around a Midnight Blue rose bush to help retain moisture in the soil and keep weeds from growing. Apply a 2 to 3 inch (5 to 7 cm) layer, and maintain this level throughout the plant’s life. Use shredded bark mulch that has been properly processed to remove insects and diseases. Pre-packaged mulch that is sold at garden centers is the safest bet. It should state right on the bag that it has been composted or sterilized.
A:
Pick out midnight blue roses that look healthy. Select a sunny spot. Dig a hole that will accommodate the bush’s roots. Add manure to the soil before planting your roses. Apply a layer of mulch to the area to help fight weeds.