Adjust the dials inside your appliance so that each section stays consistently at these temperatures. This way, your food will be stored safely and you won’t encourage any excess ice buildup in your refrigerator. Avoid setting your fridge to any colder settings as you might encourage frost. Use an appliance thermometer to check the temperatures inside your fridge and freezer. Saturate a cleaning cloth or sponge with hot water. Hold the damp cloth directly on top of any ice buildup or frost. Press down on it gently to warm up the ice below. If the cloth starts to get cold, soak it in some more hot water and reapply it to the frost. Continue this process until the frost melts away completely. Use a paper towel or a dry cleaning cloth to soak up any moisture before you close your fridge. If you’re having trouble getting ice patches to melt away with hot water, use a brush with medium or stiff bristles to scrape away the solid chunks of ice. Or, try knocking the pieces of frost off with a sturdy wooden spoon. Once you’ve dislodged the frost, sweep up the fallen ice crystals into a bowl and tip them into the kitchen sink where they can melt. Avoid using a sharp object to chip away at the frozen buildup; you may risk damaging the inside of your refrigerator.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary -- Keep your refrigerator set at 37 to 40 °F (3 to 4 °C) and your freezer at 0 °F (−18 °C). Melt away ice crystals with hot water and a cleaning cloth. Use a bristle brush or kitchen utensil to dislodge tougher ice crystals.


The separate sides of a two-part mold join along the centerline of the master object. Retrieve your master item, a permanent marker, and a ruler. Draw a straight centerline around your master item. Set a block of non-toxic and non-drying molding clay on your work surface. Embed the master item into the clay up to the centerline. The top of the item should line up with the top of the clay bed. There should be a 1 inch border of clay surrounding the remaining 3 sides of the item. Alignment keys join the 2 halves together perfectly. Retrieve four ½ inch alignment keys and a bottle of temporary adhesive. Apply a thin layer of temporary adhesive to the flat side of the alignment key. Place the key in ¼ inch from the top left corner and adhere it directly to the clay. Place 1 key in each of the remaining 3 corners. In order to fill the mold, you must provide an opening. For this mold, the opening will appear at the top of the clay bed. Apply a thin layer of temporary adhesive over the top of the master item—the side not embedded in clay—and the top side of the clay bed (the side directly below the top of the master item). Press this side flush against a wooden or metal retaining wall. Allow it to dry. A layer of silicone mold putty will form 1 of the mold’s inner walls. Coat the master part with a release agent. Apply a layer of mold putty to the exposed half of the master item. Apply mold putty to the clay bed’s surface, carefully covering the alignment keys. Extend the molding putty ½ inch up the retaining wall. Apply a thin layer of temporary adhesive to the bottom side of the clay bed (the side parallel to the top of the master item). Press this side flush against a wooden or metal retaining wall. Allow the adhesive and the molding putty to cure for 1 hour. Due to the flexibility of cured molding putty, it is necessary to create a second more durable shell, known as a mother shell. You will create the mother shell with plaster sheets.  Cut 4 to 6 sheets of plasters. Each sheet should be 6 inches longer than the mold. Layer the sheets on top of eachother.  Dip the sheets in bowl filled with room temperature water for 1 second. Remove the excess water by squeezing the sheets over the bowl. The sheets should be wet, not dripping with water. Lay the sheets over the mold and up the retaining walls. Press the sheets into the mold so that they form to the shape. Crease the edges along the retaining walls into crisp 90° angles—the plaster sheets lining the retaining walls will serve as feet.  Allow the plaster to cure for 30 minutes. Once the plaster has hardened, remove the two retaining walls. Flip the entire mold over so that it is resting on the 2 plaster feet. Carefully remove the clay bed and any remnants remaining on the master part. If the key alignments do not come off with the clay bed, remove these as well. When creating the second half of the 2 part mold, you will repeat the process you just completed:  Apply a release agent to the master part. Attach the top of the mold to a retaining wall. Coat the master part in a layer of molding putty. Attach the bottom of the mold to a retaining wall. Create a mother shell out of plaster sheets. Once the plaster has cured for 30 minutes, you can safely disassemble the mold. Remove the two retaining walls from the mold. Place the mold upside down on your workspace. Remove the mother shell and carefully peel away the silicone mold. Set aside the master part and reassemble the mold.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary --
Draw a centerline on your master part. Embed half of the master item in a clay bed. Attach 4 alignment keys to the top of the clay bed. Secure the master part to a retaining wall. Cover the master item’s exposed half with silicone mold putty. Attach a second retaining wall. Create a durable mother shell. Remove the retaining walls and clay bed. Create the second half of the 2 part mold. Remove the master part from the mold.