Summarize the following:
Horse hoofs grows continually. The ideal situation is one where the rate of growth is exactly balanced by the rate of wear. However, this is unlikely to happen. Indeed, nature takes account of this with the unshod foot by allowing small pieces of weight bearing hoof to chip away, as a means of "trimming" back excess growth. If you are having a hard time determining what is normal wear, you can also talk to your vet about it. Having them come look at your horse’s hooves and discuss their condition with you can clarify what you need to look for. The outer hoof is made from keratin, the equivalent of our finger nails. Cracked or flaking hooves are not painful, just as a nail that chips doesn't hurt. However, cracked hooves can be a potential problem if the crack travels up toward the coronary band. Because of this, the owner of an unshod horse needs to be alert for signs of excess wear. These include excessive chips or cracks on hoof surface where it contacts the grounds. If a hairline split is spotted, the length, depth, and width needs to be monitored on a daily basis. If it widens to a crack, or extends up past the sole, then seek the advice of a reputable farrier who specializes in hoof care. If the hoof splits then the sensitive nerves, blood vessels, and bone inside can be exposed and this is painful.  Shoes can protect the bottom edge of the hoof from cracks and chips, and even hold a split hoof together. An unshod hoof needs regular inspection for the signs of wear that require the support of a shoe to stop a crack traveling upwards. While waiting for the farrier to visit, do not work the horse. The keratin of some unshod hooves is not strong enough to take the wear and tear of being in direct contact with the ground. If this is the case, the hoof starts to disintegrate and becomes unhealthy. Disintegrating hooves is a strong indication that shoes are required.  In the earlier stages the hoof wall peels and crumbles. If ignored some hooves deteriorate to the point that they look like the end of an exploded cigar. This is a sure sign the hoof is not tough enough and needs the protection of shoes.

summary: Understand that some wear is normal. Look for signs of excess wear. Take care of hairline splits caused by hoof wear. Look for disintegrating hooves.


Summarize the following:
If you are still in the Google PlayStore, simply tap on Open where the Install button used to be. Otherwise navigate to your app drawer, locate the Power Toggle application, and tap on it directly. This is listed under the Widgets category. This switch should be on the upper-right side of the screen. You should now see your new Quick Settings Toggles.

summary: Open the app after it finishes installing. Go to Notification. Turn it ON. Slide down your notification drawer.


Summarize the following:
Use a well finished medium-density fiberboard for the doors. The size of the pieces will depend on the chosen height of your chicken coop. Each door should be as tall and half as wide as the door opening. Screw a 2x2 along each side of each door opening, as well as along the tops. This will give you a sturdy place to screw the door hinges. Screw in two hinges per door—one about four inches from the top of the door and the other about four inches from the bottom. Note that you may need a third hinge directly in the middle, depending on how tall your chicken coop is. You can use the same measurements for the back of the coop as you did for the front, but remember to take new measurements for the doors on the side of the coop. Brass hook catches are an inexpensive, efficient closure to use, but any type of closure will work, so long as it is not easily opened by common predators such as dogs or skunks.
summary: Cut the wood. Install a door frame. Attach the front doors. Repeat this process for the other two openings. Add closures.