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If you have washers, place them around the crank spindle before installing the cranks. Push the right side of the crankset onto the right spindle and wrap the chain around the crank’s chainring so that it's between the bike and crankset. Wrap the chain so that it runs from the back gears to the chainring on the crankset. Jiggle the left crank arm and push it all the way down the spindle. If either side of the crank isn’t going all the way down the spindle, tap on it with a rubber mallet to push it into place. Place the crank bolts back into their sockets. Then, use the Allen key that you used to uninstall the old cranks to screw in the new crank bolt. Continue turning each crank bolt clockwise until you can’t anymore. If your crank bolt has a plastic compression cap that goes over it, place the cap over the center of the bolt and push down to pop it into place. Tighten the cap to the recommended torque, which is typically 5 Newton meters. If your crank has pinch bolts, turn them clockwise with a 5mm Allen key to tighten them and secure the crank to the bike. Tighten them to the manufacturer's specifications, which is generally around 15 Newton meters. Self-extracting cranks do not have pinch bolts. Place a pedal into its socket and start turning the crank counterclockwise. This is an easy way to screw the pedal back onto the bike. Go over to the other side of the bike and repeat the process. Continue screwing the pedals into the crank arm until they are tight.  Most pedals will have an engraving that reads “R” and “L” for right and left. This will help you determine which pedal goes on which side. Make sure that the threads of the pedals match with the groves on your crank arm so that you don’t strip the threads.
Pop the right crank onto the spindle in the 6 o'clock position. Slide the left crank onto the spindle in the 12 o'clock position. Screw the new crank bolt into its socket with an Allen key. Replace the compression cap and tighten the pinch bolts, if applicable. Screw the pedals back into the crank arms.