Q: In general, you should try to prune cane-growing shrubs after they have flowered. This does vary somewhat from plant to plant and gardeners should investigate the needs of their specific cane-growing shrub before pruning it. However, damaged or vandalized plants may be trimmed at any time of the year.    {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/8\/83\/Prune-Cane-Growing-Shrubs-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\/v4-460px-Prune-Cane-Growing-Shrubs-Step-1Bullet1.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/8\/83\/Prune-Cane-Growing-Shrubs-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\/aid5018834-v4-728px-Prune-Cane-Growing-Shrubs-Step-1Bullet1.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":"728","bigHeight":"546","licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a rel=\"nofollow\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} You will need hand shears or clippers, long handled loppers, and possibly pruning saws or wood rasps to help make the necessary adjustments to your garden shrubs. Dipping the tools in a disinfectant solution before using them helps to prevent any lingering contaminants from being transmitted to the shrubs in question. A mixture of 9 parts water to 1 part bleach or rubbing alcohol is recommended. Most disinfectants will eventually corrode tools, so try to oil garden implements after disinfecting or using them because this will help keep them from rusting.    {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/5\/5d\/Prune-Cane-Growing-Shrubs-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\/v4-460px-Prune-Cane-Growing-Shrubs-Step-3Bullet1.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/5\/5d\/Prune-Cane-Growing-Shrubs-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\/aid5018834-v4-728px-Prune-Cane-Growing-Shrubs-Step-3Bullet1.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":"728","bigHeight":"546","licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a rel=\"nofollow\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} Always use sharp, bypass hand pruners to cut canes and branches that are 1/2-inch thick or smaller. Sharp loppers should be used if the canes are thicker than ½ inch. Dull pruners and loppers will crush the canes and stems rather than giving a nice, clean cut.  Make the pruning cuts ¼ inch above a new growth bud. On most cane-growing shrubs, new growth buds are located at an indentation or line that circles the cane, though this is not always the case. They are raised, usually triangular shaped patches of plant. Make the cut at an angle facing away from the bud. Do not make the angle too drastic or cut too close to the bud as both of these actions can permanently damage bud growth. When removing dead or ailing branches, it is best to wipe down the tools after every cut is made in order to prevent the spread of diseases. Likewise, once one is finished pruning out the contaminated plant parts, they should wipe down the implements used before moving on to other portions of the shrub. Once they are done with their pruning, gardeners should cart away all the leftover plant material. Parts that are not diseased can be chopped up and added to the compost bin. Other pieces should be bagged and left for the local waste removal companies to pick up. Diseased parts can also be burned. Gardeners who have not already oiled their gardening implements should do so before putting them back into storage. Consider keeping  your tools in a place where they are easily found for later use.
A: Prune cane-growing shrubs after they have flowered. Use the correct tools. Dip the pruning tools in disinfectant to prevent contamination. Prune the branches above the nearest bud, in a sloping fashion. Wipe down the tools after each cut. Dispose of the cut plant material. Oil your tools before putting them back into storage.

Q: Your starting position on the chart is listed in a coordinate system of horizontal and vertical values.  Instead of an X and Y coordinate, this might be listed as a number of steps Left or Right (on either side of the 50 yard line) and a number of steps in front of or behind the hash line that runs parallel to the Visitor-Home sidelines.  Drill charts are read from the viewpoint of the director. If the chart says “in front of” it means toward the director. If the chart says “behind” it means away from the director's viewpoint. In order for the marching band to look uniform, it's important that everybody moves about the same distance with each step they take. Drill chart instructions will be listed in steps.  The standard marching style is called 8-to-5, which means there are 8 steps for every 5 yards. Since there will be 5-yard lines on a standard football field, it creates a grid marchers can follow, counting 8 steps between each line. You can also think of each step as being an average of 22.5 inches, since there should be 8 steps in 5 yards. This measurement is often used as a standard. More important than knowing the average size of a standard step while you're marching is to be moving at the same pace as those around you. Each position in a drill chart corresponds to a count in the music. As the song progresses, you will move across the field into a new position. You will start on the count of 0 and generally move in increments of 8.
A:
Find your position number. Move in equal sized steps. Follow the count.