Summarize the following:
Set a drawing compass to the thickness of your lumber. Using the compass, trace two lines on a stack of plywood in the shape you'd like to bend your wood. Cut along both lines with a bandsaw. Now you have a gap the perfect size for your lumber, and a two-part plywood form to press the lumber from both sides.  Alternatively, just cut one line to create the inner curve, and use clamps to press the lumber against it. There will be a small amount of spring-back after you release the wood with this method. Bend it slightly farther than you want the final shape. . Once glued back together, these strips will be much more flexible than the original lumber. You can use any type of wood, but cross-grained wood and wood with knots are likely to break. Plane it into strips according to how far you plan to bend it:  For a curve with a 2 to 4 inch radius (5–10 cm), plane the wood into 3/32" (2.4 mm) strips. For a curve with a 4 to 8 inch (10–20 cm) radius, plane to 1/8" (3.2 mm). For an 8 to 12 inch (20–30 cm) radius, plane to 3/16" (4.8 mm). For a radius greater than 12 inches (30 cm), plane to 1/4" (6.4 mm). These are guidelines to use as a starting point. The wood species and grain slope affect the result, so you may need to experiment. This will make the wood more flexible, which may be necessary for tight bends. However, for best results, you will need to keep the wood wet for the first three or four hours after you bend it. Skip this step if you prefer a less time-intensive approach, or if you are only creating slight bends. Working with freshly planed surfaces will increase the strength of the bond. You can use epoxy, polyurethane, aliphatic resin, or just about any high-strength glue that works on wood and meets the needs of your project.  Distribute the glue as evenly as possible. Rolling a 3/8" (9.5 mm) threaded rod over the wood can give better results than brushing on the glue. Flip every other strip end-to-end before gluing. This will prevent the grain slope from lining up, removing lines of weakness. Bend the laminated wood along the piece of plywood you prepared. Clamp it tight in several places. The more clamps you use, the less chance there is that gaps will appear between strips, and the closer your wood will get to the desired shape. Check your glue label instructions for the curing time. (If it doesn't say, wait 24 hours.) After that, the wood should stay in its new shape. If you soaked the wood, don't forget to keep it wet for the first three or four hours.

summary: Create a bending form. Plane your lumber into thin strips Soak the strips in hot water (optional). Glue the strips together immediately. Clamp the wood onto your bending form. Leave the wood until the glue sets.


Summarize the following:
Once winter rolls around, adjust your morning routine to allow time to de-ice. Start setting your alarm to go off at least ten minutes earlier than normal. This way you can do a thorough job without feeling rushed (and potentially botching the job!). There are a couple of household ingredients that you can potentially use as a homemade substitute, but only use those as a last resort. For the best results, go with a product that was specifically designed to do the job without damaging your car in any way. Always stock up on some professionally-made de-icer before winter arrives.  De-icer can be found online, at auto parts stores, and the automotive sections at stores like Walmart and Target. Be sure to keep one can of de-icer in your car just in case it ices over somewhere other than home. Give your windshield and other windows a generous spray of your de-icer. Start at the top and then work your way down to the bottom. This way the de-icer will start running down the windows, which means it will cover more ice without you having to waste more product. Definitely use an ice scraper for this, and not some other tool. Again, you want to protect your windows from damage, so use a tool that’s meant for this specific job. Apply plenty of pressure with each stroke, and scrape as far as you can reach in one long, continuous motion. Don’t chip away over one tiny area, because this could scratch the glass underneath. Use the scraper’s brush end (or a separate brush if it doesn’t have one) to clear the loose ice off the window.  If the ice is being stubborn, spray it with more de-icer to loosen it up instead of hacking away at it. If your reach is short, choose a scraper with a nice long handle to extend it further. Once you’ve cleared the driver’s side, you may feel the urge to just leave the passenger-side of your windshield and all the other windows as they are if you’re in a rush. Fight that urge and take the time to remove all the ice. Keep in mind that local laws may require you to do this. Even if they don’t, take the time anyway. Don’t limit your field of vision when driving. Now that all the ice has been cleared from the windshield, make sure the wipers haven’t frozen to them. Spray the wipers with de-icer if necessary so you can raise them. Then spray some de-icer into a cloth and rub it over the wipers’ blades. Set the wipers back down into place. When you start the car, turn them on to make sure they function normally. Your windows are the most obvious things that need to be cleared, but keep in mind local laws probably state that others need to be, too. Once the big job is done, scan your car to see if ice or snow is blocking anything else that needs to be uncovered. If needed, de-ice your:  Tail and headlights Turn signals License plate(s)
summary: Give yourself time to work. Keep formulated de-icer on hand. Spray windows from the top down. Scrape and brush off the ice. Clear all of the ice from each window. De-ice and test the windshield wipers. Check other areas.