Q: The right end should be shorter, only a couple of inches longer than you want that side to flop down when you finish. This right end will remain static for most of the belt tying procedure. The short end should be pointing to your right.
A: Hold the belt across your body in front of your navel. Place the long end of the belt over the short end.

Article: If your wall has been recently plastered, give it time to thoroughly dry. Several factors—such as the time of year, the type of heating in your home, and the number of layers used—can affect the drying time. For good measure, give the new plaster at least 1 full week.  Open doors and windows in the room. Good ventilation will help it to dry. Painting over damp plaster can cause your paint to peel. It will save you time and money to wait. Primer and paint products can seriously damage your floor. It is important to place a canvas drop cloth on the floor where you will be working. Painting with diluted emulsion can be especially messy, so be sure to do this before you begin. If you are new to painting, you may want to apply painter’s tape to any places where the wall touches molding, baseboards, or windows. Press down on the tape down with a putty knife to secure it. Purchase a light-colored emulsion. Pour equal parts emulsion and water into a clean bucket. Use a wooden wand to gently stir. Look for a product labeled “emulsion.” This product should be water-based and should not contain vinyl. New plaster emulsion is a pre-mixed product similar to a homemade mist coat. New plaster emulsion is a more expensive product, but purchasing this can save you some time and energy. Whether you’ve chosen to use new plaster emulsion or a mist coat, the process is the same. Pour the product into a tray. Use a paint brush to carefully line the edges of your walls. Then use a paint roller to cover the walls, using a straight vertical lines. Open the paint you’ve chosen for your wall and give it a stir with a wooden wand. Pour some paint into a clean tray. Use a paint brush to “cut in” and line the edges of your walls. the rest of the wall. Give your paint another stir, then add more paint to your tray. Coat a paint roller, and use this to cover the walls in straight vertical lines. Read the instructions on your paint to determine the drying time needed between coats. Speed up the drying time by opening the windows and doors, and possibly turning on a fan. If the color does not turn out as vibrant as you would like, you may add a second coat. Use the same process you did before: cut in with a paint brush and finish with a paint roller.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Wait at least 1 week for new plaster to dry. Protect the floor with a drop cloth or tarp. Mask the molding and baseboards with painter’s tape. Create your own mist coat if you’d like to save money. Purchase new plaster emulsion if you are short on time. Prime the wall with a new plaster emulsion or mist coat. Paint the edges of your walls. Paint Let the paint dry between coats. Add a second coat as needed.

Problem: Article: If you don’t use the full 0.5  c (120 ml) of sauce right away, store it in the fridge to use throughout the week. A small glass jar with a screw-top lid makes an ideal storage container. When you pull the sauce from the fridge, leave it on the counter for 5-10 minutes (it's thicker when chilled) and then stir it up with a spoon before using it.
Summary: Refrigerate leftover sauce in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Q: Prepare to transplant gaura seedlings to an outdoor location after the threat of frost has passed in the spring.  If you choose to purchase an established gaura seedling or plant from a garden nursery instead of growing one from seed, the same transplanting guidelines still apply. Note that many perennial varieties of gaura can be planted after the threat of frost passes in the spring or at the very beginning of autumn, before frost becomes an issue. Annual varieties must be planted in the spring, however. Gaura does best when planted in areas receiving full sun, but it can also tolerate spots that receive partial sun and light shade. You must choose a spot with well-draining soil. If your garden is filled with heavy soil, you must amend it before transplanting the gaura seedlings.  Gaura shrubs develop a long taproot, so you will need to amend the soil to a depth between 1 and 2 feet (30.5 and 61 cm).  Spread 6 inches (15.24 cm) of light organic matter—peat moss, compost, or sand—over the top of the planting area. Use a shovel to dig the additive down into the soil to the appropriate depth. Make sure that the soil and organic material are evenly mixed. The soil should look notably looser when finished.   Also note that the soil does not need to be especially nutrient-dense, but it should be fairly neutral with a pH between 5.5 and 7.2. Use a shovel or a trowel to dig a planting hole for the seedling. The planting hole for each seedling should be twice as wide as the seedling's current container. The depth of the planting hole should only be about as deep as the current container, though. Avoid planting seedlings too deep. The top of the root mass should be just beneath the surface of the soil. Before you remove the seedling from its current container, give the soil a thorough watering. Watering the soil makes it more compact and easier to move. Carefully remove the seedling from its container and center it in the planting hole.  Hold the plant securely at the base of the main stem, just above the surface of the soil and the root mass. Slowly invert the container until it is tipped diagonally downward. Squeeze the sides of the container with your other hand or tap on the container with the handle of your trowel or shovel. This should loosen the plant and free it from its container. Grab the bottom or side of the removed mass. Carefully place the plant right-side-up in the planting hole. Continue to hold it steady above the root mass with one hand. Use your free hand to fill the rest of the planting hole with soil. Once the plant is stable, let go of it and use both hands to gently pat the soil down.  The soil around the plant should be fairly loose but still packed well enough to hold the plant in place. Give the entire planting site a thorough watering to help settle the soil. Gaura does well when planted in nearby clusters or planted around other perennial shrubs.  Small varieties should be spaced 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart. Large varieties should be spaced 20 to 36 inches (50 to 90 cm) apart. Planting the gaura close together can prevent the roots and stems from becoming too leggy.
A:
Transplant in the spring. Choose a sunny spot. Provide plenty of drainage. Dig a hole twice as wide as the container. Water the seedling well. Transfer the seedling from the container to the planting hole. Pack the soil around it. Plant separate gaura seedlings close together.