Write an article based on this "Bring the cream sauce to a simmer. Avoid letting the sauce boil."
article: The easiest way to thicken a cream sauce is by reducing it on the stovetop. This method will allow some of the sauce to evaporate, thickening it in the process. Adjust the heat on your stovetop to bring the sauce to a simmer. The sauce should stay just below the boiling point as it simmers. It’s important that you do not allow cream sauce to boil. High heat can cause dairy to separate, ruining the texture of your cream sauce. Keep the sauce simmering, and make sure it doesn’t begin boiling. If the sauce begins to boil, reduce the heat immediately or remove it from the stove completely. Allowing the dairy to separate can also affect the flavor of your sauce, so watch the sauce vigilantly.

Write an article based on this "Choose your fleece. Wash in hot water. Put in about a cup of laundry detergent. Soak fleece for 45 minutes. Push the fleece gently into the water. Rinse and repeat. Let dry. Card the fleece using the method of your choose."
article: Try to get a fleece that has been just sheared, because the grease makes the wool softer. You will also need to keep a few things in mind when choosing your fleece. These include what you're making out of the spun yarn, color, and faults in the fleece that will make your spinning experience difficult!  Think about what you're planning to do with the finished yarn. Are you making socks? Weaving? Knitting? Making outerwear? Different kinds of fleece have different softness levels, which you'll need to look into when you're choosing the fleece to spin with. Watch for certain faults in the fleece that will inhibit your spinning. Avoid buying fleece with a break in it. If you give a lock of fleece a sharp tug and it breaks (typically in the middle), this will cause pilling in the roving and make for weak yarn. Fleece that has vegetable matter in it makes for difficult carding and cleaning (if you like combing the fleece and have the time, you can get this, but otherwise it's best not to). Check that the crimp of your fleece is even. Spread out the fleece and check at least three different areas (haunch, shoulder, mid-side, for example). You want to make sure that one area isn't coarser and hairier than another area. Wheel-to-flyer ratio determines what type of yarn can be spun. A wheel that has a ratio for medium or bulky yarns will be used for spinning wool, so the size of your yarn will depend on your wheel. Often you have to scour (wash) the fleece before carding and spinning. This is to remove the oils from it, which can make it difficult to spin. Although you can wash in cold water, it's recommended that you use hot water. You want the water to be hot enough to be uncomfortable, but not so hot that you can't actually wash the wool.   Use a large bathtub or basin. You can divide into sections to make it easier to wash it well, and so that you don't crowd the fleece. Some handspinners like to leave the grease in (called "spinning in the grease") and wait to clean the fiber when setting the twist into the yarn. However, leaving in the grease can make it difficult to dye and can ruin the carding cloth on a drum carder. You can use just about any laundry detergent as long as it doesn't have bleach or added conditioner. Conditioner can leave behind a filmy residue on the fleece.   Don't completely strip the oils out of the fleece. Removing too much of the natural oils can make it as difficult to spin (which is why some handspinners spin with the oils and wash later). You also want to make sure that you aren't using so much detergent that you have to wash the fleece ten times to get all the suds out. Washing too much and too vigorously can turn the fleece into felt, which you want to avoid. You will want to soak the fleece in the water to get rid of dirt, oils, and other unclean undesirables. Leaving it to soak means that you won't accidentally turn it into felt. Do not allow running water to run directly on the fleece. You will need to stir the fleece around gently, with your hands or a wooden spoon handle. Remember, too much agitating will turn your fleece into felt. Each time you rinse the wool, make sure that the temperature is the same as the times before. The more open you allow the fleece to be in the water, the fewer wash/rinse cycles you'll have to go through. Depending on how dirty, or how fine the wool is you may have to do more wash/rinse cycles.   Soak the fleece in hot water with about one-half cup of white vinegar for 30 minutes, for the last rinse. Mohair, merino, rambouillet, and other finer wools tend to need multiple washes. Gently squeeze the wet wool. Spread on a towel or drying rack, or hang over your porch railing. If you can put them outside to dry, do that. The best weather for drying wool is sunny and windy. Carding aligns all the fibers in the one direction. It fluffs them to make the drafting easier. You can send it to a factory, use a drum card, or a hand comb. Consider using a metal dog comb, which is the most inexpensive choice.  If you're using carding paddles (which are a good, easy way to go), take a piece of the clean, dry fleece and drape pieces of it it one direction. With the other paddle, you'll gently swipe across the fibers, aligning them in the same direction. When the fleece is fluffy and aligned, put the piece aside. No matter what type of carding you're doing, the same basic principle is the same. You are trying to align the fibers one way, whether you're doing it with a metal dog comb, with paddles, or with a drum card. One of things people tend to do wrong is over-card their fleece. Your goal is to make the fleece look presentable, fluffy, and aligned. You don't need to beat the fibers into submission. Make sure that the wool is completely dry. Fleece is amazing in its ability to retain water, and wet fleece isn't going to card properly.

Write an article based on this "Improve circulation to handle small spots of algae. Gather the algae with a flocculant. Treat the pool with algaecide."
article:
If small clumps of algae form but do not spread to the rest of the pool, you may have areas of stagnant water. Check that your water jets are functioning properly. They should point into the water at an angle, so the water moves in a spiral pattern. A flocculant or coagulant clumps the algae together, making it possible to vacuum living algae. This may take a hard day of work, but your pool should be clear by the end of it. This is the fastest way to get your pool looking good, but it does not make the water safe to swim in. If algae can multiply, so can viruses and bacteria. Follow this with a chlorine shock treatment to sanitize the pool, and do not swim in the pool until chlorine and pH levels are back to normal. Algaecide will certainly kill your algae, but the side effects and expense may not be worth it. Here are a few factors to weigh when considering this option:  Some algaecide products are not powerful enough to treat an existing bloom, especially if you have black algae as well. Ask a pool store employee for help, or find a product with 30%+ active ingredients. Quaternary ammonia algaecides ("poly quats") are cheap, but cause your water to foam. Many people find this annoying. Copper-based algaecides are more effective, but expensive. They usually stain your pool walls as well. After adding the algaecide, wait at least 24 hours before adding other chemicals.