INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Sanded grout has been mixed with fine sand, which helps keep it in place across the entire joint instead of shrinking. Choose sanded grout when filling gaps ⅛ inch (3.2 millimeters) or wider. Sanded grout is not ideal for narrow lines, as the sand can take up too much of the width and weaken the structure. Non-sanded grout, also called "unsanded" or "wall grout," is typically recommended for lines under ⅛" (3.2 mm) wide, but some prefer to reserve non-sanded grout for lines 1/16" (1.6 mm) or smaller. Non-sanded grout will shrink significantly as it dries, but the more narrow the line, the less noticeable this is. This grout is also stickier and easier to work with than sanded grout, especially on vertical surfaces. If you are applying the grout to polished stone, test sanded grout on an inconspicuous corner first to check for scratching from sand particles. If the stone does end up scratched, use non-sanded grout instead. If the grout joints are considerably larger than ⅛" (3.2 mm) wide, consider epoxy grout instead. Highly reflective polished stone is more likely to be scratched than honed stone, with a matte appearance. Epoxy grout resists grease, acid, and wear much better than ordinary grout, and can substitute for either sanded or unsanded grout. It provides serious protection for kitchen countertops or other areas with high spill risk, but dries much faster and is much harder to apply than other forms of grout. It also tends to be considerably more expensive. It’s usually only needed in commercial kitchens, such as the ones in restaurants. Epoxy grout can discolor some porous, unglazed, stone materials. Seal the stone first before you apply the epoxy grout. Caulk creates a more flexible seal. Use it instead of grout when filling the gap between a wall and a floor, or another joint between two different planes. If you’re concerned about matching throughout, you can also purchase either sanded or unsanded grout caulk, which is a mixture of the two. The safest choice is an unobtrusive grout that matches the material you'll be joining, but you can try for a striking contrast if you're certain you like the look. Because white grout turns dirty yellow or off-white over time, light grey or light brown are generally better options, especially in humid or wet environments. If you do not plan on sealing your grout, a darker grout may be a better option. Dust from black, green, and red grout tends to be more difficult to clean off surrounding materials, so make sure to wipe the excess grout away thoroughly if you choose one of these colors.

SUMMARY: Use sanded grout for wider grout lines. Use non-sanded grout for narrow lines. Be cautious when treating polished stone. Use epoxy grout only for high-risk areas. Use caulk to join surfaces at an angle. Choose a color.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: When females reach sexual maturity, they begin going into heat when they are receptive to mating. Females come into heat about every 6 months. This is called her "season," and it last for around 21 to 35 days. The signs of being in heat include:  Curving her tail to the side when you scratch her backside (revealing her vaginal opening) Twitching or swelling of her vulva Bloody discharge from her vagina. Note that a bloody discharge in a female that is not due in heat should trigger an urgent vet appointment, because it can be a sign of womb infection and can be serious. Just because a dog is in heat does not mean that she is hormonally or psychologically ready to mate. She's best prepared to accept intercourse and get pregnant is when she ovulates. Ovulation is most likely to happen 7 - 10 days after the start of her season, but there is some variation between individual dogs. Some females ovulate as early as day 3 or 4, while others ovulate at day 27. Mother Nature is clever, though, and the hormones that cause ovulation also increase sexual interest in male dogs. Thus, the best way to tell when a dog is ovulating is to see how she interacts with her potential mate. If the two dogs live close to one another, have the female visit every 2-3 days. Be alert to behavior that suggests she's open to his attention. If your female dog's mate lives far away, it's unreasonable to travel every 2-3 days to assess her behavior around him. In that case, you can have a veterinarian do a vaginal cytology on her. First, he will roll a cotton tip over the mucous membrane of the dog's vagina. Then, he'll roll the swab over a microscope slide, air dry it, and stain it for inspection under the microscope.  The cells sloughed from the lining of the vagina vary depending at what stage in her cycle the female dog is. The cells associated with estrus or heat are large, rectangular cells without a nucleus, as well as cell debris. When the number of red blood cells decrease, but these large anuclear cells are present, the female dog is most likely to be receptive. When the "moment has passed," an increase in white cells start to appear, as well as nucleated cells, and red blood cells. A blood test for ovulation is an alternative to vaginal cytology, and is likely the preferred option for many breeders. The blood test measures progesterone levels in the female dog's blood stream and looks for a significant rise that suggests she is about to ovulate.  Before ovulation, blood progesterone levels are generally below 2 ng (nanograms). They rise to 5ng acts as a trigger to ovulation, and after ovulation they continue to rise and can reach 60 ng. To detect ovulation, it can be necessary to repeat the blood tests every couple of days. To catch that critical 5ng red flag for ovulation, you should start testing before the expected ovulation date.
Summary: Wait for the dam to go into heat or estrus. Watch for signs of ovulation. Have vaginal cytology performed. Ask the vet to run a blood test.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Pour the oil into a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan or deep fryer. Bring it to a temperature of 400 degrees Fahrenheit (200 degrees Celsius).  Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit (90 degrees Celsius).  Line a baking sheet with nonstick aluminum foil or parchment paper, and line a large plate with clean paper towels. Place two or three shaped sopes in the hot oil. Fry them for 1 or 2 minutes, or until they turn golden brown on both sides and are fully cooked through.  Use tongs to carefully turn the sopes halfway through the cooking time, ensuring that both sides brown evenly. Only work with a few sopes at a time. If you try to fry too many, the temperature of the oil may drop, forcing the sopes to cook longer and become soggy. Remove the hot sopes from the oil using tongs. Place them on the paper towel lined plate.  Arrange the sopes with the indentation facing down so that the oil does not gather inside the shell. Wait a minute or so, giving the sopes adequate time to drain, before moving onto the next step. Place the sopes on the lined baking sheet and place the baking sheet in the oven. Keep the sopes in the oven while you work on the remaining batches.  Storing the finished sopes in the oven should keep them warm while you finish cooking the rest. After you've finished cooking the remaining sopes, you can remove the entire batch from the oven. Cover the sopes with a clean, dry towel to keep them warm as you prepare the filling.

SUMMARY:
Heat the oil. Fry the sopes. Drain the excess oil. Keep the sopes warm.