Partial transparencies also stack, meaning you can use this to "shade in" images realistically. If you need a partial edge or gentle transition, set the brush or eraser opacity to 10% or so. Now, every time you shade over that area, you erase 10% of pixels each time. So, if you erase it 10 times in one area, then move over and erase 8 times, then 6, etc, you would get a nice, gradual merge. Found through "Selection" → "Refine Edge," this shows off what your image will look like without a background. This allows you to see your new photo perfectly, fine tuning it before merging it in. Any selection, on any layer, can be refined. When done, click "Selection" → "Inverse" and hit the Delete key to erase all the pixels you refined out.   Radius: Shrinks the edge all the way around. Each pixel you "add" cuts a pixel closer to your selection.  Smooth: Rounds the edges  Feather: Adds partial transparent "blur" to the edge of the selection.  Contrast: Makes harder edges and points. Opposite of "Smooth."  Shift Edge: Grows or shrinks the entire thing based on the percentage you supply. This feature will sync up the two images, like a group photo where one person closed their eyes. Pull in another copy where they have their eyes open, then select both layers by Ctrl/Cmd-clicking them. From there, select "Edit" → "Auto-Align Layers." Select "Reposition Only" for the best results. Blending modes relate one layer to another. So, for example, if your bottom layer has strong lighting, you can tell your top layer to take some of these light pixels and use them to lighten up your top layer. Sound confusing? The best part is, it is simple and easy to experiment without permanent damages. To use them:  Click on the top layer of the ones you're merging. Click on the drop-down menu, currently set to "Normal" above the layers. Choose a new blending mode, noting how it changes your image. Try out  Pin Light Lighten Multiply Overlay Soft Light Dissolve

Summary: Change the opacity of your brushes and erasers for tighter control. Use "Refine Edge" to get perfect cuts and selections. Try the "Auto-Align Layers" if you're matching near-identical photos. Play with "Blending Modes" to match the lighting in your merged images.


The size of your rollers will determine the size of your resulting curls. Larger rollers will create larger curls and waves, while smaller rollers will create tight pin, spiral or bouncing curls.  Don't forget to consider the length and weight of your hair when choosing your rollers. Long and thick hair will naturally result in looser curls than short, fine hair. The ideal type of rollers will also vary based on how you plan to set the curls. For example, Velcro rollers will be easier to set using a hair dryer, but if you plan to sleep in the rollers, you'll be more comfortable with sponge or bendy rollers. Shampoo your hair thoroughly and rinse. Use a sulfate-free shampoo to prevent dryness and keep your curls from frizzing up. Use conditioner if that's part of your general hair-care routine. Rinse completely and gently towel dry.  If you want to use leave-in conditioner, now is the time to apply it. Comb through wet hair so there are no tangles. Apply a styling product so your hair will better hold the curls once they are set. Remember, where there is more product, there is generally more hold. Choose from mousse, gel, hairspray or even thermal-activating setting spray. You can customize your curls by spraying just the ends of your hair for curls at the bottom, or spray the roots and underneath for voluminous waves. Part the hair into 3 sections, 1 on top and 1 on each side of your head, leaving the back hair loose. Placing curlers in 1 of these sections at a time will make the process much easier. Pin sections down with long hair clips. There are no set times when to dampen your hair, just spritz it when you feel it is too dry to work with.

Summary: Choose your curlers. Wash your hair. Prepare hair for setting with a styling product. Section your hair. Fill a spray bottle with water and keep the hair wet as you are rolling it.


Fill a bucket with warm water and add in a few squirts of car safe soap. Soak a scratch-free cloth in the soapy water and wipe down the exterior of your jet ski with it. Pay close attention to the bottom of the jet ski, where algae and slime tend to accumulate. Don't use dishwashing liquid or hand soap. Thoroughly rinse off your jet ski with clean water. You can do this with a hose or by filling and dumping buckets of water onto the jet ski. Afterwards, let the jet ski air dry completely. If you want to, you can then use a high-shine protectant car wax to buff and shine your jet ski. Get a bottle of fuel stabilizer and add it to your gas tank as the product label instructs. This will prevent fuel contamination and will also keep residue from building up in the carburetor, fuel injection system, and gas lines. After putting the stabilizer in, top off your gas tank with premium gas. This will prevent condensation from forming on the inside of the gas tank. Spray lubricant on the areas of your jet ski that are often rotating and turning. Some of these areas include the steering nozzle pivot points, the reverse mechanisms, and the brake mechanisms. It's also a good idea to spray the engine as well as the electrical components to rid them of any traces of water.
Summary: Wash the exterior with car safe soap. Rinse and dry your jet ski. Put stabilizer in your gas tank. Fill up your tank with gas. Lubricate your jet ski's moving parts.