Increase the salt to 2 teaspoons. Just after you have taken the popcorn out of the oven, sprinkle some sea salt over it. After you have popped the corn, stir in about 3 cups (375 grams) of chopped walnuts of pecans. Next, stir in your caramel sauce, and proceed with the rest of the recipe. Make the caramel corn according to the recipe, but reserve about ¼ to ½ cup (60 to 120 milliliters) of the sauce. After the popcorn has cooled, spread it out onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, and drizzle the rest of the caramel sauce over it. Toss in a handful of mini chocolate caramels, such as Rollo's, and another handful of candy-coated chocolates, such as M&Ms. Stir everything together, and serve.  M&Ms come in seasonal blends and colors, such as red and green for Christmas, and orange, yellow, and brown for Halloween/Thanksgiving. After you have finished the sauce, stir in some of your favorite ground baking spices along with the vanilla extract. You will need at least 3 teaspoons. Great options include pumpkin pie spice, apple pie spice, and cinnamon. Make your caramel corn first, then let it cool. Melt ½ cup (90 grams) of semi-sweet chocolate chips in the microwave on medium for 2 minutes. Give it a stir, then heat it at 20-second intervals, stirring in between, until it is smooth. Drizzle it over the caramel corn. Repeat with ½ cup (90 grams) of white chocolate ships. Wait for the chocolate to harden, then serve.

Summary: Try salted caramel corn. Give it a crunch with chopped walnuts of pecans. Add in some color with candy. Add some spices to the caramel sauce. Make some "zebra" caramel corn.


Use more paper clay to sculpt over the doll's torso, limbs, and head. This time, pay attention to the details, such as muscles, facial features, and genitals. Reference anatomical draws as much as possible. You can build these from scratch or work over an armature. BJD hands and feet at solid through, so you don't need to cut these apart. Make the tops of the wrists and ankles rounded so that they can fit into the ankle and wrist sockets. Use a dremel or craft blade to slice the doll apart at the torso, knees, and elbow. Next, cut the tops of the lower arms and legs off at a slight angle. Do the same for the bottoms of the upper arms and thighs. This will allow the doll to move their arms and knees more freely. The angles need to slant away from the elbows and knees. Add balls to the tops of the lower arms and legs, then cover them with plastic wrap. Add some clay to the bottoms of the upper arms and thighs, then squish the balls against them to create sockets.  Add some balls to the tops of the upper arms. Make them perpendicular to the arm rather than right on top. This will allow the arms to hang straight down. Make the top of the bottom torso piece taper in a little, then soften the inside edge of the upper torso piece. This allows them to fit together like stacked bowls. Add a stringing hole to the top of  the shoulder, elbow, hip, and knee balls. Add a hole to the top of the neck too, if it got covered up. Make sure that the holes are the same size as the channels inside the limbs. Work while the clay is still wet. If the clay dried, use a dremel to make the holes. The slits need to run from the stringing hole to the bottom edge of the ball where it touches the limb. Make the slits run in the following directions:  Upper thighs: center-front of the thigh ball. The slit needs to be long enough so that the doll can sit while strung. Knees: back-center of the knee balls Shoulders: inside the arm, where the ball fits into the socket. Elbow: center-front of the inside arm. Feet: across the entire ball, running parallel to the length of the feet. Hands: across the entire ball, from palm to the top of the hand. When you pull the head cap (top of the head) away, you'll see a set of magnets: 1 above the forehead and 1 above the nape. You should use a dremel to drill similar holes into your doll's head and head cap so that you can insert magnets.  Don't add the magnets yet. You will add them after you cast the doll. A bjd's head will also have a small hole in the bottom where the neck joint is. This hole is the same size as the neck hole. It also has a vertical slit that is wide enough for the elastic and S-hook. You can do this by inserting a piece of wire perpendicular to the slit, or you can add some clay to the top of the slit. This will allow the hook to latch onto the hands and feet.

Summary: Add more paper clay onto the doll's body and refine it. Sculpt the hands and feet with rounded tops. Cut the doll apart along the joints, making them angled. Sculpt new joints and sockets. Add stringing holes to the balls and sockets. Cut stringing slits into the balls, including the ankle and wrist balls. Add magnet and stringing holes to the head and head cap. Add hook bars to the ankle and wrist balls.


Always train the horse with a mild snaffle bit before moving on to a more severe option. Stronger bits can provide more control, which may be useful for horse shows. Some excitable horses will resist stopping with a mild bit, but focus on ground work training first. Some spirited or sensitive horses will object to a harsh bit, and continue misbehaving.  Think about your typical riding activities. You'll typically want a mild bit for riding in the school, and perhaps a stronger bit for more strenuous activity. Check the bit regulations of any horse competitions you plan to enter. Beginning riders are more likely to harm the horse with a strong bit. You should have a fair amount of riding experience before you try to use one.  Even then, ask your trainer for advice on choosing a bit, and on adjusting your rein use to adapt to a new bit. There are many variations of bits, and you may need to try several before you find one that works. Most English riders just move to a snaffle with a harsher mouthpiece or ring. Western riders may try a different style of bit altogether, such as the curb bit. These use leverage to increase the amount of pressure from your pull. The Pelham and the Slotted Kimberwick are two common options which use a curb chain to provide more control over the head. Bitless riding is becoming more popular, although it is not yet legal in most competitions. Even if you use a harsh bit some of the time, consider training without a bit occasionally. This will improve your own balance and strength, and teach you to direct the horse with cues from the "seat." This may even solve some behavioral issues, as many horses calm down when the mouth is no longer agitated. Bitless riding is allowed in most jumpers, polo, and endurance competitions. For other disciplines, you will need to compete with a bit — but you may still benefit from the training.
Summary: Decide whether a stronger bit is appropriate. Consider your own riding ability. Choose the bit. Train the horse without a bit.