In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Visit a sporting goods store where you can be fitted for the right sized backpack by a professional.  Be sure the backpack has two wide, supportive shoulder straps, and sufficient back and strap padding. Adjust the straps so that the backpack lays flat against your back. Both straps should be worn at the same time, to distribute the weight of the pack evenly. Chest and waist straps are available for additional support, if needed. Consider good materials and construction. A high-quality backpack can go a long way towards fit and comfort throughout the day. Higher quality also means longer lasting backpacks. Invest in features like breathable or ultralight fabric. Some packs have waterproof or water-resistant materials to protect against rain. These materials will help lessen the weight of your pack in the long-run. Features like handles and rolling wheels are common, but they may add on extra weight. Remove anything outdated, any trash, and anything else that isn’t a part of your routine. Cleaning and organizing your backpack is one of the easiest things you can do to lighten your pack that will show you immediate results. Be sure to ask your teacher if electronics are allowed in the classroom. Consider which textbooks could be swapped out for e-books. Electronic notes and planners are also options, and will save space in your backpack. Consider carrying travel-sized items or condensing a bulky makeup bag down to just the basics. Bring only one or two back-up pencils, pens, and highlighters, instead of a large bag of writing supplies. Use your locker if you have one! If you don’t, consider if you have any alternatives, such as a personal gym locker or your car, if you drive to school. Review your schedule, and store heavy textbooks or binders in your locker when they’re not needed. Stop by your locker between classes or as often as possible.
Summary: Find the right fit for your body. Invest in a well-fitting, high-quality backpack. Consider special features, like lightweight and breathable materials. Take everything out of your pack, once a week. Use e-books and electronic planners, if allowed. Cut down on personal supplies and writing utensils. Use your locker or available storage.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Put the oil directly onto the bat. Avoid getting oil near any decals or the handle of the bat. Linseed oil helps moisturize and soften the fibers of the willow wood and makes the bat easier to compress.  Don’t use cooked linseed oil since that will remove moisture from the wood. Raw linseed oil can be purchased online or at hardware stores. Coat the entire flat area since it could come into contact with a cricket ball. Make sure the oil is evenly spread out and it is not pooling on any area of your bat. Rags covered in linseed oil can catalyze, meaning it can generate heat as it is drying and possibly combust. Leave rags spread out outdoors so they can dry before storing them in an airtight, fireproof container. Dispose of the rags when there is hazardous waste collection. The edges of the bat will also need to be knocked in and rounded, so it’s important to work the oil over each edge. Bring the oil 1⁄4 inch (6.4 mm) down the side of the bat with your finger and rub it into the edges. Keep your bat face-up so the oil seeps down into the wood. Let the oil soak in for a full day until it is dry. This will ensure the wood is filled with moisture and your bat will absorb a hit from a mallet rather than crack. Each time, let the oil dry for 24 hours before applying another coat.
Summary: Pour 1  tsp (4.9 mL) of raw linseed oil on the flat side of the bat. Rub the oil onto the wood with your fingers or a soft rag. Spread the oil onto the edges of your bat. Let the oil set for 24 hours. Oil the bat 2 more times.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Make sure the countertops are securely bolted together first. Push them all the way back and gauge how much of a gap remains between the countertop and wall. Most likely, you’ll notice a gap that needs to be fixed. Lay masking tape over the top of the backsplash. Get a scribing tool, and find the largest gap between the countertop and wall. Lay the tool flat against the wall and adjust the pencil end so the tip is on the edge of the tape. Keep the scribing tool at this length and draw the line all the way across the tape. The countertop should be as level and close to the wall as possible. You may need to add shims under the counter or scribe and sand the cabinet’s sides to do this. Undo the bolts underneath the counter. Pull the pieces out and get an 80-grip belt sander. Wear down the back part of the counter to the line you traced. Hold the sander flat at all times. Reattach the bolts to hold the countertops in place. Push them against the wall and measure them again with the scribing tool. You may need to sand 1 or more times to eliminate unsightly gaps larger than 3⁄16 inch (4.8 mm). You’ll need to undo the miter bolts one last time. Slide the countertops apart. Apply a bead of silicone caulk along the miter joints on the countertop edges. Then push the countertops together and secure the bolt in place one last time. When using aluminum strips instead of miter joints, you won’t need to do this, so enjoy skipping the extra work. The easiest way to do this is to drill up through the build-up strips. Apply the screws so they enter but don't exit the countertop. For extra support, place small angle brackets along the build-up strips. Screw the brackets into the countertop and the cabinets to hold them in place.   1 1⁄4 in (32 mm) drywall screws are commonly used for this. Double-check the thickness of your countertop and build-up strips and get longer or shorter screws as needed. To prevent any damage to the countertops, measure the countertop depth first. You can then measure that far down from the tip of your drill bit and place a piece of tape there to show you when to stop. Finish sealing the countertop by securing the backsplash to the wall. Squeeze a bead of caulk into the gap and move the caulk gun all the way across the backsplash in one motion. Moisten a rag and use it to smooth out the caulk. Silicone latex caulk is the best choice since it’s both water-resistant and paintable. Flip these objects over and find your tube of silicone caulk. Spread a bead of the caulk all around the edge of the sink or range. When finished, carefully pick up the object and lay it into the hole you cut earlier. Wipe away any excess caulk with a rag. These strips should be included with the countertop. If they haven’t been pre-cut, measure the length of the free edges of the countertops. Snip the strip to size with a pair of scissors. Brush a layer of contact cement over the backs of the side strips. Wait about 20 minutes for the glue to feel dry to the touch. Press the strips to the countertop’s edges to hold them in place. It helps to place a towel over the countertop to avoid getting the glue on it. Before you begin, place a towel over the countertop to avoid damaging it. Hold a metal file flat against the towel and carefully wear down the excess on the strips. Take your time getting the strips to blend in so you avoid scratching your new countertop.
Summary:
Slide the countertops back against the wall. Scribe the backsplash. Sand the countertop down to the scribe line. Repeat sanding until the countertop is flat against the wall. Caulk the miter joints to secure the countertops together. Screw the countertops to the cabinets. Place caulk along the backsplash. Seal the sink and range in place with caulk. Cut the laminate side strips to fit the countertop’s edges. Use contact cement to glue the side strips in place. File down the laminate strips.