Article: The assistant will run the tweezers, called jacks, around the bottom of the blown glass as you turn the pipe. This will help to cut the bottom and loosen the glass so it can come off. Use a wooden block to hit the pipe once so the blown glass comes off the pipe where the glass has been cut. Make sure your assistant is ready, wearing heat resistant gloves, to catch the blown glass when it comes off the pipe. Try to hit the pipe only once with a hard and firm whack. Doing it more than once can cause the blown glass to crack or break. The annealing oven should be kept at 960 °F (516 °C). Wearing heat resistant gloves, put the blown glass in the oven. The oven should then be cooled down over 14 hours to room temperature. The slow cool-down period will prevent the blown glass from cracking or breaking. Take the blown glass out of the annealing oven after 14 hours. Inspect it for any sharp edges, especially on the bottom. Use a grinding block to carefully smooth them out.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Have an assistant cut the bottom of the blown glass with steel tweezers. Tap the pipe to remove the blown glass. Transfer the blown glass to an annealing oven. Remove any sharp edges on the finished piece.

Problem: Article: The producer supplies the necessary materials for building your log home. You can source a producer by looking at different company's plan books, which will give you an idea of the type of log homes that they have produced previously. Otherwise, you can stop in at a model log home, and if you're impressed with the style and layout, you can hire the same company to produce yours. Make sure that you have an open line of communication with your chosen producers - they should listen to your ideas and always keep you in the loop.  You can do a background check on possible producers by researching previous log homes they've built and getting references from their customers. You can also check with the Better Business Bureau, the state attorney general's office or the Log Homes Council. Carefully consider your options when it comes to choosing a builder. There are many on the market, and their quality and service vary considerably.  Besides finding a builder you can communicate well with and painstakingly checking references with past customers, you also should visit finished homes to personally inspect the builder’s work. Keep in mind that it usually takes several years for a log home to completely settle and expose any construction defects. A 3- to 5-year-old home probably is the best example of a builder’s art.  Before selecting your builder, you also should check with the local contractor’s board or similar state or regional authority, including your state’s attorney general’s office, to see if the builder has been involved with litigation in the past.  It’s wise to choose a builder who is familiar with your local building codes and the environment of your site. Make sure your builder is licensed and bonded, otherwise if you run into problems you could have little legal recourse. You will need to negotiate with your builder or building company about items such as the price of their services, the design of your home, and the estimated time frame for completing the project. Once both parties have come to an agreement, the terms will be laid out in a contract which you will both be required to sign.
Summary: Research and choose a producer. Research and choose a builder. Sign a contract.

Ideally, you should have a shovel, a medium garden trowel or a small cement trowel, a scraper and a brush. If you are lucky enough to have any finds, you should have a tray to keep them in, a camera and a ruler or yardstick. It is also recommended to have a tarpaulin or a wheelbarrow to add your soil and any turf-grass or paving stones onto without making a large mess. Otherwise known as a sondage, this pit should be a few feet (60-90cm) across, but generally no larger than a metre across each way, otherwise it can become too large a job that requires a long time to excavate. Start by measuring with string and pegs, marking paint or a frame. Lift the turf or paving stones. Put these aside neatly on the  tarpaulin so you can easily put them back afterwards with minimal effect. After you have lifted all the turf, check the soil to see if there is anything there. This layer will be the most recent and will be unlikely to have anything very old, although you may find something a few decades old such as an old coin, discarded bottles and other recognisable items. Photograph anything interesting you may find. For young children,  anything can be interesting, including old bottle caps and scrap, but  genuinely interesting finds are directly related to human activity, as  well as dating evidence. As a very rough metaphor, imagine a loaf of bread. You cut the bread in even slices rather than make random holes on the loaf and that's roughly what you are endeavouring to do, by digging layer by layer, revealing even slices. This is the slower way of doing it, but it is arguably the proper method to reveal each layer and get an understanding of the contexts.  For most excavations, it's best to obtain a soil sieve from your local hardware store and check the "spoil heap" and/or hire or purchase a metal detector to check for small traces of metal objects. Both ways provide opportunities to find the subtle clues of history. The key method of layers is that if a coin from 1970 is found in that layer, then it's highly improbable that the layer is older than 1970––unless it was buried there––which in itself is an interesting discovery. If you find a very old layer, yet it has modern debris in it or below it, then old soil may have been shifted to that location, or there has been modern disturbance. This inconsistency is all part of the story. The study of layers is often referred to as Stratigraphy and for very complex layers, it can be connected with paleontology.  If you find darker patches, this may be remains of charcoal; its presence may be as simple as a bonfire or campfire remains, or alternatively an older dumping ground for kitchen and other waste which has enriched the soil. Small or isolated patches of burnt material are more likely human made rather than a seasonal; naturally produced fires typically would form an even ash layer that can be found when digging  several pits in an area. Intense or prolonged burning (such as an ancient hearth, forge or demolition) often leaves red traces in the soil.  Other changes to the soil such as lighter and darker layers can show either natural accumulation, chemicals or metals being dumped, or humans digging holes for a fence post, digging a trench to bury something or part of land management, such as building an earthen or stone wall. The key to being a good archaeologist is to decipher these changes. Photograph anything you uncover using your ruler as a scale reference. In particular, keep records of anything that can indicate unknown human activity, or activity that you wouldn't think is normal in a household backyard. It is best to record everything you find and observe, including depth and location in the test pit. Be mindful about the soil types. If you find soil that is different or not naturally occurring, this is a find all on its own. It may be something as simple as someone digging a garden bed using introduced materials or it could be something more complex, such as a quake or a novel building foundation; deducing from the earth what people in the past were doing there is what archaeology is all about. If you're likely to dig more than 1 foot (30cm) deep however, it's generally best to call in additional help, or leave the test pit and ask your local school, university or local historical society to get involved. Deep pits may need structural support for safety and if the water levels are high, may fill with water and be unsafe or just very difficult to excavate.
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One-sentence summary --
Gather your tools. Dig a test pit. Start to take the soil back one layer at a time. Keep an eye out for soil changes. Dig as far as the evidence takes you.