Q: Shrubs like hydrangeas or barberries, and trees like cherries, spruce, and poplar, are best when pruned in the winter. This allows you to better see the branches since they won’t have leaves.  Other shrubs include mallows, camellias, glossy abelias, and European hornbeams. Trees like crab apples, junipers, plums, honey locusts, and bald cypresses should also be pruned during the winter. Some trees will leak sap onto the ground or your car if you prune them in the late winter, so aim for cutting them back in the summer. This also includes trees such as walnuts, elms, and dogwoods. Signs of dead branches include leaves that are shriveled up and brown and branches without any leaves on them while other branches have green leaves. If you see a dead branch, use sharp pruning shears to remove the entire branch.  If the bark has fallen off, this could be another sign that the tree is dead. If there's a discolored spot on the tree that turned yellowish or brown, it's likely that it's dying. To check, you can scrape the bark and look for a green color beneath it, which means the tree is alive. For larger branches, use a hand saw. If your tree has a diseased portion — such as a fungus on its branches or strange spots on its leaves — prune below the diseased section to remove it.  Wait until it isn’t wet outside to prune, as water will spread the disease. Clean your pruning shears between cuts with rubbing alcohol to kill disease and stop it from spreading. Make sure to do this before starting on another tree that has no signs of disease. If 2 branches are crossing, cut the smaller branch so that they’re no longer in each other’s path. You want the branches to continue growing outwards, so cut right above an outward facing bud to ensure it keeps growing out. Do not cut right above a bud that’s facing towards the middle of the tree because it will make the branch grow inwards. Keep branches that are growing outwards around a 45 degree angle. Try to eliminate unnecessary branches that are growing inwards at an odd angle so that the whole tree or bush can have access to sun and fresh air.
A: Prune summer and fall flowering trees as well as shrubs in the winter. Cut back trees like maples and birches in the summer to prevent sap leaks. Remove any dead or dying branches first. Remove any diseased branches you see. Look for branches that are intersecting one another. Thin branches so that sunlight and air can reach the center of the plants.

Q: You can find these kits at hardware stores and plumbing supply retailers. A kit should include sheets of insulating foam, adhesive, an adhesive application tool, and instructions. Alternatively, you can create your own tank insulation kit by buying a standard size yoga mat and a tube of high-quality waterproof adhesive. Unless you find a good deal on the yoga mat, however, the price difference may not be that great. Turn off the water supply by turning the oval valve at the end of the supply line clockwise. Remove the lid of the toilet tank and set it aside. Flush the toilet to drain nearly all the water from the toilet tank. For now, leave the small amount of water that remains in the tank. It will help you clean out the tank. Use your preferred spray-based cleaner and a handled scrub brush. Scrub away as much of the rust-colored buildup on the tank's interior sides and bottom as you can. Dip your brush into the water in the bottom of the tank occasionally to rinse it off. Cleaning off the walls will make the adhesive for the insulation hold better. Once you've cleaned off most of the buildup, rinse down the interior walls with clean water, then flush again to empty away most of this water. Use a turkey baster to suck up the remaining water in the tank, or use a sponge to sop it up. Your goal is to remove all standing water from the tank. Your fastest option is to wave a hair dryer on high power back and forth throughout the tank for 10-15 minutes. Or, you can try one of the following:  Position a space heater so that it is blowing hot, dry air into the tank. Check it at least every half-hour and leave it running until the porcelain is dry to the touch. Clip a work light with a 100 watt incandescent bulb to the top edge of the tank. Position it so the bulb is inside the tank. The heat of the bulb will dry the tank in roughly 12 hours. A toilet tank insulation kit comes with sheets of flexible styrofoam that you can cut to fit. Estimate the size and shape of the bottom and sides of your tank interior, and cut the pieces as needed.  Follow the same process if you're using a yoga mat instead of an insulation kit.  Always estimate on the larger side first, then cut the pieces smaller as needed. There should be extra sheets if you make a mistake. You'll have to cut around some obstructions within the tank, like the flush valve and the flapper. If you're using a kit, apply the included adhesive to the back of each sheet of cut insulation with the included wooden stick (basically, a popsicle stick). Try to spread a fairly even layer over the entire surface. Then, press each sheet in place against the tank interior. If you're using a cut-up yoga mat as your insulation, choose a high-quality, waterproof glue or sealant as your adhesive. Apply it according to the product instructions. This gives the adhesive time to fully set. After waiting, just turn the water supply valve counterclockwise to fill the tank back up. Then put the lid back on and you're all set! Insulating the interior should make a noticeable reduction in the amount of condensation on the outside of the tank.
A:
Buy a toilet tank insulation kit, or make your own. Empty most of the water from the toilet tank. Clean off any buildup on the walls of the tank. Rinse and drain the tank. Remove all surface moisture from the tank's porcelain interior. Cut the sheets of insulation to fit the tank's bottom and sides. Glue the insulation to the bottom and sides of the tank. Wait 8-12 hours before refilling the tank.