Problem: Article: It’s possible that your parakeet might get loose during training, so close any doors and windows in the room before you begin. Turn off any electric fans or other hazardous devices, such as space heaters, and make sure there are no other pets in the room. It’s also important for your parakeet to feel secure, so keep the room quiet and free of distractions during training. Before starting any interaction that might involve your parakeet coming out of its cage, make sure your bird’s wings are properly clipped. The vet will gently wrap your parakeet in a hand towel or dry washcloth, pull out one of its wings, and carefully clip off the ends of the 6 or 7 long flight feathers at the end of each wing, starting at the tip of the wing. Then, they'll repeat the process with the other wing.  Trim the flight feathers at least .25 inches (0.64 cm) beneath the shorter feathers higher up on the wing. Take care not to cut into any “blood feathers,” which are newly-formed feathers with a visible blood vessel running through them. When done correctly, wing clipping will not harm your bird or cause it any pain. This is simply a precaution to keep your parakeet from escaping or injuring itself by flying into a hazardous area. Your parakeet’s clipped feathers will eventually grow back, so you’ll need to repeat this process once every 6-10 weeks. Don’t try to train your bird if it is hungry, tired, or irritable. It won’t be able to focus on what you’re teaching it, and it may develop unpleasant associations with training. Start working with your parakeet when it is awake and well-fed. If your parakeet is hopping around actively, chattering or whistling, and wagging or flipping its tail, it is probably feeling secure and happy.  If your parakeet stands still and upright with its wings slightly extended away from its body, it may be afraid. Watch your parakeet for other signs of fear and aggression, such as hissing, snapping, and raising its wings. It’s also important for you to feel calm and focused during training sessions. Don’t try to train your bird if you’re feeling tired, irritable, or frustrated. Come back and try again later, or take a few deep breaths to clear your head before you get started. If you tower over your parakeet, it may feel intimidated. When you approach the cage, crouch down if necessary so that your own eyes are only slightly above the parakeet’s.  Some bird owners believe that your bird will think you are being submissive if you get down below its eye level. Not all experts agree on this, however. Either way, stepping up will be most comfortable for you and your parakeet if you are positioned slightly higher than your bird. If your parakeet seems calm and alert, open the cage door and put your hand inside. Allow the parakeet to investigate your hand on its own, but don’t grab at it or try to get it to step up just yet. If your parakeet acts nervous, don’t immediately withdraw your hand from the cage. Keep your hand still and stay quiet until your bird figures out that nothing bad is going to happen and begins to calm down.  If your parakeet feels secure enough, it may jump up on your hand on its own. Do this a few times a day for a few days, keeping your hand in the cage for about 15-20 minutes at a time. Move your hand closer to your parakeet each time you have a training session. Talk to your parakeet in a soothing, pleasant voice while your hand is in the cage. Once your parakeet has had a few days to get used to being near your hand, try offering it a treat. Put the treat in your hand and allow the parakeet to take it. Select a special treat that you only use for training purposes, such as millet, a small piece of fruit (such as apple, orange, or banana), or even a toy.
Summary: Create a safe environment for training. Have a veterinarian clip your parakeet’s wings. Check that your parakeet is alert and calm. Approach the bird at slightly above eye level. Put your hand in the cage slowly and quietly. Let the parakeet take a treat from your hand.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: That includes ladders, baskets, hoses, filters, pumps, heaters, and any decorative pool fittings.  Rinse all of the pool equipment and lay it out to thoroughly dry. Store the equipment in the garage, shed or another dry place through the winter. Use a skimming net on a pole to remove all substances floating on the top of the pool, including leaves, insects, and any other debris that may have fallen in. Empty the built-in pool skimmer traps and also the pump leaf and debris catcher. Be thorough, since this is the last time you'll skim the pool before the winter. Use your pool-cleaning equipment to clean the bottom and sides of the pool. If you have a lot of debris on the bottom of the pool, use a skim bag to collect it before vacuuming and brushing. The filter needs to be back-washed repeatedly. This is while the pool is working. Later empty the filter, if it is a diatomaceous earth (DE) filter dry and store the filter elements, or perhaps it is a sand filter. Either will be recharged with water in the Spring (more below in the "lower water and drain equipment").

SUMMARY: Remove everything from the pool that's not water. Skim the pool. Vacuum and brush the pool. Clean the pool the same day you are shutting it down, to keep more debris from collecting in the meantime.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Move the bookcase out of the way. Use a yardstick to mark the center of the stud with a vertical line. If this is impossible, you can attach your brackets at the top, into a center stud. For tall shelves, this is the best place to secure a bookcase into a stud because it is the least noticeable place. You can also use door chain latches in place of L brackets if you want to move the shelf regularly. Install the chain on the wall and the slide on the top of the shelf.  Drill the other side of the L bracket into the wall with washers and three-inch wood screws. Drill until the screw head is almost even with the bracket, but avoid stripping the screw. If you can’t find a stud, you should install wall anchors before you drive screws into drywall or masonry. Drill a pilot hole into the wall and push the wall anchor in. Then, align the brackets and drill with three-inch screws. Place an L bracket between the wall and the side of your shelf, where it will hit a stud. Repeat the same procedure on either side of the shelf.
Summary:
Remove the books. Use a stud finder to locate studs in your wall. Replace your bookcase, positioning it at a point right between the wall studs. Use a stepladder to gain access to the top of the shelf. Place an “L” bracket so that it is flush with the wall and the shelf. Drill the L bracket into the top of the shelf with your cordless screwdriver using screws that will go all the way through the top of the shelf. Ask a friend to hold the bookcase flush with the wall if it is tipping forward. Repeat on either side of the shelf.