Problem: Article: Shoe width varies by shoe size. To determine shoe width, measure the distance between the longest part of each foot. Then, subtract 5 millimeters or 1/5 of an inch. With a simple internet search, you can find a general size chart for shoe size. Match the length of your foot with the corresponding shoe size. But also take note that there are different size charts based on gender. For example, a foot around 8.5 (21.6 centimeters) inches would be a size 5 in women's based on US sizes. In European countries, the measurement 8.5 would be a a 35 or 36. The size chart should indicate your width based on your shoe size. After identifying your shoe size, look back to the width measurements of your bigger foot. Figure out what the width would be for your shoe size based on that measurement. For example, a woman with size 5 shoes with a shoe width around four inches (10.16 centimeters) would require an extra wide shoe. In stores, extra wide shoes are normally labeled as "E." Every sizing chart is different and some company's shoes may run slightly smaller or larger than average. When buying shoes, see if the manufacturer has a specific sizing chart before assuming your shoe size based on a general chart. This will help increase the likelihood shoes will fit properly, especially if you're making purchases online.
Summary: Measure your foot length. Identify your shoe size. Figure out your width based on that size. Use specific sizing charts when possible.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Start at the ball of the foot and wind the underwrap around the foot and up to and around the ankle, stopping a few inches above it. The heel may be left exposed. Wind the athletic tape around the top of the underwrap, a few inches above the ankle. Use a scissors to cut the tape and overlap the end with the starting point to make sure the tape stays in place. This is called the anchor because it forms the foundation for the rest of the tape wrap.  Don't wind the tape too tightly. It should be secure, but comfortable. You may want to use more than one piece of tape for the anchor to make sure it stays in place. Align the tape with the outside of the ankle. Place the end of the tape on the stirrup, then wind it under the foot and up to the other side of the ankle. Secure it on the other side of the anchor. Repeat with two more pieces of tape that slightly overlap each other. This forms a stirrup, which helps keep the ankle stable during movement. " Place the end of the tape at the ankle bone and extend it diagonally over the top of the foot, then wind it under the arch of the foot and toward the inside of the heel. Bring it around the heel and run it diagonally over the top of the foot to complete the "x." Place the end of the tape on the outside of the ankle. Wind it over the top of the foot, bring it under the arch, back over the other side of the foot, and around the ankle. Repeat this figure 8 shape a total of 3 times, overlapping the tape a bit each time.  Make sure the tape wrapping is comfortable for the person wearing it. If it pulls at the skin or hair, you may need to start over. The tape wrap may be worn all day and during physical activity. It should be changed when it becomes dirty. Remove the wrap if the toes turn white or a numb or tingly sensation is felt.

SUMMARY: Wrap the foot and ankle with underwrap. Create an anchor. Form the stirrup. Stabilize the foot and ankle with an "x. Finish the tape wrap with three figure 8s.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Put on rubber gloves and safety goggles if you’re concerned about splashes. Wear old clothes you wouldn’t mind getting bleach on. A white t-shirt is a good choice since a bleach stain is unlikely to show up. Or you can cover your clothes with a plastic apron. Open any doors or windows to create good airflow while you’re working. If your eyes are watering, you’re using too much bleach. Step away to get some fresh air and then dilute the bleach with more water. Bleach is very concentrated and can damage the material you’re using it on, so always dilute it with water before applying it to any fabric. . These two chemicals create toxic fumes when mixed together. Do not combine them, and thoroughly wash any container that held one before filling it with the other. The same applies to vinegar and rubbing alcohol, both of which should never be mixed with bleach. If it says “no bleach,” do not attempt to bleach it; the garment could be ruined. If it says, “only non-chlorine bleach when needed,” this implies that non-chlorine bleach is safe occasionally, but continuous use could damage it.  If there are no words on the tag, look for a triangle shape with an open center. This is the symbol for an item that can be bleached.  Also look for the fabric composition of the item. If it’s cotton mixed with spandex, wool, or silk, avoid bleaching it since these materials can be ruined by bleach.
Summary: Wear protective gear when handling bleach. Ventilate your workspace. Dilute bleach with water whenever you use it. Keep bleach and ammonia separate. Check the tags of any item you intend to bleach.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: A mandolin is traditionally tuned G-D-A-E, from low to high, with each pair of strings tuned to the same tone. In other words, the instrument is tuned G-G-D-D-A-A-E-E, taking into consideration each individual string. When you're holding the mandolin correctly, the highest string pair (E) should be the closest to the floor. If you play guitar, it can also be helpful to think of it as the lowest four guitar strings (E-A-D-G), but in reverse. That can also help you get familiar with the fingerings when you're first getting started on the instrument. On most mandolins, the tuners for both G strings and both D strings will be on the side of the headstock closest to you, while the tuners for both A strings and E strings will be on the side of the headstock closest to the floor, in order. As you tune, you generally want to tune in that clockwise pattern on the tuners, around the headstock, working your way down the instrument and higher in pitch. What makes tuning a mandolin more difficult than tuning a violin, of course, is that there are 8 strings instead of 4, meaning that you have to be precise or the instrument will be out of tune. It can be difficult to know which string is out of tune when you're striking them both in unison. Use "rest strokes" (in which you dampen each string with the pick after playing) to isolate each note individually as you're tuning. This will get a clearer tone on the electronic tuner, or whatever other tuning method you're using. As with any stringed instrument, you generally want to tune from flat to sharp, tuning the string up in pitch, rather than down from a higher note to the correct tone. This is because you want to settle the tension in the string toward the gear, not away from it. When you tune down, you risk letting the tension slip on the tuning gear as you play, making the string will go flat. This is especially true with new strings. Worn out or rusty strings will go out of the tune more easily and bedevil your fingers as you're learning. Make sure you change your strings out regularly to keep your instrument in tune. You don't need to change them every night unless you're Tim O'Brien, but consider changing them every 4-6 weeks of moderate to heavy usage. It can be frustrating to tune immediately after putting new strings on the mandolin, because it'll slip out after only a few minutes. After putting new strings on, each string puts lots of pounds per square inch of tension on the neck, and the wood will flex slightly. You need to account for this by getting the strings close and then letting the instrument rest for a second before fine-tuning. You'll get it in tune more quickly and more accurately this way.
Summary:
Tune it like a violin. Locate the correct tuners for each string. Tune each string individually and both strings together. Tune up, don't tune down. Use fresh strings. Get the tuning in the ballpark, and then fine-tune it.