Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Purchase a large aquarium. Install a large canister filter. Keep a heater in the aquarium. Add the substrate. Provide the fish with hiding places.

Answer: Parrot cichlids can grow as large as 10 inches (25 cm) long. For this reason, you'll need to buy at least a 42-gallon (159 L) tank if you want to keep only one fish. Aim for 10 additional gallons (38 L) for each fish if you're planning on giving your fish some companions. Parrot cichlids like to have several hiding places along the bottom of the aquarium, so a taller tank wouldn't help. Parrot cichlids are large fish with healthy appetites. Their tendency to dig in the substrate can stir up dirt and algae. This is why they require a larger filter. A heavy-duty wet/dry filter will help to remove these waste products and keep the water clean. Purchase a filter that can be mounted to the back of the tank. Avoid anything that goes under the substrate, as digging fish can easily disturb its functioning. Many breeds of parrot cichlids originate in warm South American climates. Keep the aquarium temperature about 76 to 84 °F (24 to 29 °C). Even blood parrot cichlids, bred in captivity by humans, thrive in warmer waters. Temperatures below 80 °F (27 °C) might cause cichlids to become less social. Parrot cichlids like to dig, so make sure the substrate is soft. Opt for fine dark sand, which they can comfortably burrow under. Avoid putting plants in the aquarium, since the cichlid's tendency to dig could knock them over. Parrot cichlids can be territorial, especially if you plan on adding smaller tankmates. Keep broken flowerpots, small rocks, driftwood, or stacked rocks to form caves that provide the fish with hiding spots.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Secure the top two wefts together. Push the wefts together. Secure the bottom two wefts together. Cut the warp yarn and secure or snip any loose threads.

Answer: Select a needle with a large eye. Thread a piece of your weft yarn through the needle’s eye. Attach the top two rows together by sewing a zig-zag pattern across the weaving. This will prevent the top two rows from slipping. Remove the dowel from the bottom. Retrieve your fork. Use the fork to push the bottom wefts towards the wefts above. Retrieve your needle. Thread the large-eyed needle with a piece of your weft yarn. Attach the bottom two wefts together by creating a zig-zag pattern across the bottom of the weaving. Snip the warp threads that are connecting the weaving to the loom. With a needle pull the tails of the first and last weft rows into the weaving. Trim all other side tails to between ¼” to ½” long. Flip the weaving over and cut any loose threads you see.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Put on disposable gloves and drape an old towel over your shoulders. Mix together the bleach powder and the developer with the tint brush. Take a thin section of hair from one of the back quarters. Apply the bleach to this section using the tint brush. Flip the first section over to show the side that hasn’t been bleached. Continue applying bleach to thin sections until each quarter is complete. Apply bleach to your roots if you want them bleached too.

Answer: Make sure that you put the gloves on before you begin mixing any bleach. Bleach can be very damaging to skin and fabrics, so the towel will protect you and your clothes from any bleach that drips from your hair  Many bleach kits will come with the gloves for you to use, but your own plastic or latex gloves are also fine. A hairdressing cape will also work well instead of an old towel if you have access to one. The ratio of the bleach powder to the developer will be specified on the bleach kit box. Make sure that you use a non-metallic bowl. Place an old towel beneath the bowl to avoid the bleach damaging the surface. Remove this section from the plastic clip, and keep the rest of your hair clipped back. This section should be about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick if you have thin hair, or thinner if you have thick hair. Bleaching your hair in small sections will make sure that the bleach is applied thoroughly and evenly throughout. Make sure that the bleach covers the full length of your hair, but leave the roots uncovered since the bleach may irritate your scalp. Brush the bleach through in the same direction that your hair grows, starting at the top and ending at the tip. Work as quickly and carefully as possible, so that the first section doesn’t lighten too much before you have put the bleach into the last section. Apply bleach to this side too, brushing it through in exactly the same way. This will ensure that you don’t accidentally miss a spot. You can group this section together, and clip it back with a plastic clip again to keep it out of the way while you bleach the rest of your hair. Repeat the bleaching process through the rest of the first quarter, the other back quarter, and the two front quarters.  Remember to leave the roots unbleached for now. By the time you have finished the final front quarter, the first back quarter will be starting to lighten. After you have bleached all of the sections of your hair, you can also do the same to the 1 cm (0.4 in) of root hair. Bleach can make your scalp feel itchy or slightly irritated, so start out with a small, unnoticeable part of your roots first to see how it feels. You can leave your roots unbleached if the feeling is too unpleasant.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Add roof supports if they are not yet present. Add the roof frame. Construct the rafters. Add a trim. Paint the wishing well

Answer:
If you made your own barrel as described above, there should already be two longer slats that can be used as roof supports. If you are using an existing barrel, select two long 2 x 4s (50 x 100 mm), and cut one end to a fencepost-like point, using 45º angles. The lumber should extend at least 2ft (0.6 m) above the lip of the well base, and may be significantly taller if you are using a heavy or tall barrel. Nail these roof supports at the base of the barrel and again near the lip, with the two supports at exactly opposite sides of the barrel. To make a small, peaked roof for your wishing well, begin by cutting four pieces of lumber to serve as the frame for the roof, using the same size lumber as formed the roof support. Cut one end of each piece to form a 45º slant, so two pieces can fit over each peaked roof support and slope downward. Drill holes and attach wood screws down through the frame and onto the support, from above. The length of the roof frame is up to you. Typically, a small roof is used, that does not extend past the edge of the well. Lay out 1 x 2 (25 x 50 mm) lumber rafters from one side of the frame to the other, using wood screws to attach them on each side. Choose between two styles of roof:  Flat roof: Work from the top downward. Place each rafter flush with the one above it. Overlapping roof: Work from the bottom upward, overlapping each rafter over the one beneath it. Plan the rafter placement in advance so the uppermost rafter meets the peak of the roof without having to be cut. Strengthen the roof and make it more attractive by adding a trim. Start by attaching a 1 x 4 (25 x 100 mm) across the open, triangular frame, at its lowest point. Use finishing nails and wood glue to make a strong bond, both to the roof support and to each end of the frame. Repeat on the opposite end, then connect them with another 1 x 4 (25 x 100 mm) just beneath the lowest rafter. . If you are keeping your wishing well outdoors, giving it a coat of paint will protect the wood from the weather. Use a clear finish instead if you'd prefer to keep the natural wood color.  If you plan to use the wishing well for water, use a wood stain that protects the base from water damage.  If you are painting the well in your garden, keep in mind that the products you use may harm nearby plants if they reach the soil.