In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Type 1 diabetes, once known as juvenile or insulin dependent diabetes, is a chronic condition most often diagnosed in children. However, it can be diagnosed during any point in a patient's life. When a patient has Type 1, the pancreas makes little to no insulin. In most cases, this is due to the body's immune system mistakenly attacking and destroying the insulin producing cell in the pancreas. Since the body is not producing enough insulin, the glucose in your blood cannot be converted to energy. This also means that the glucose will build up in your blood stream, causing problems.  Contributing factors to Type 1 diabetes are genetics and the exposure to certain viruses. A virus is a common trigger in adult onset Type 1. If you are diagnosed with Type 1, you will likely have to use insulin. The symptoms of Type 1 include frequent urination, excessive thirst, extreme hunger, unusual and rapid weight loss, irritability, increased fatigue, and blurry vision. The symptoms are severe and typically come on within a few weeks or months. These symptoms can also be mistaken for the flu at first.  An additional symptom in children may include sudden and uncharacteristic occurrences of bedwetting. Women may also develop yeast infections. This test is used to determine Type 1 diabetes and prediabetes. A blood sample is taken and sent to a lab. The lab measures the amount of blood sugar attached to the hemoglobin in the blood. This reflects the patient's blood sugar levels over the past two or three months. This test results vary by the age of the person being tested. Children can have a higher percentage than adults.  If there is 5.7% or less sugar attached to the hemoglobin, the levels are normal. If the percentage is 5.7% to 6.4%, the adult patient has prediabetes. If the patient is an adolescent or younger, the level range goes up to 7.4% for prediabetes. If the percentage of sugar is higher than 6.5%, the adult patient has diabetes. For adolescent or younger patients, a percentage of sugar higher than 7.5% means the patient has diabetes.  Conditions such as anemia and sickle cell anemia have been known to interfere with this test. If you have these issues, your doctor may use a different test. This test is the most commonly used test because it is accurate and costs less than other tests. During the test, the patient goes without food or liquid other than water for at least 8 hours. The doctors or nurses draw blood and send it to get tested for glucose levels.  If the levels are calculated below 100 milligrams per deciliter (mg/dl), the levels are normal and the patient doesn't have diabetes. If the levels are determined to be between 100 and 125 mg/dl, then the patient has prediabetes. If the levels measure above 126b mg/dl, the patient likely has diabetes. If anything other than a normal amount is measure, the test will be repeated to make sure that the results are sound. This test can also be used to detect Type 2.  This test is typically given first thing in the morning because the patient has to go without food for so long. This test is the least precise of the tests but is effective. The blood is drawn from the patient at any point, regardless of how much or recent the patient has eaten. If the levels come back above 200 mg/dl, then the patient may have diabetes. This can also detect Type 2 diabetes.
Summary: Distinguish Type 1. Recognize the symptoms. Take the Glycated Hemoglobin (A1C) test. Get the Fasting Plasma Glucose (FPG) test. Do the Casual (Random) Plasma Glucose test.

Use a hacksaw, or heavy duty tin snips to cut the gutter at the appropriate measurement. You may need to cut your gutters at a 45 degree angle if two gutters meet at a corner. Locate each rafter tail — usually spaced every 16 inches (40.6 cm) apart — by looking for their signature nail heads. After you've marked the location of each one, drill pilot holes along every other rafter tail to make installation of the brackets easier. Brackets will either snap onto the gutters or will be mounted into the face board first, depending on the type of gutters you purchase. Review the manufacturer's recommendations for your particular type of gutter. Use a jigsaw to cut a square opening at the appropriate place in the gutter. An end cap should be used on any open-ended run of gutter. Slip the gutter into place by tilting it upward until its back end fits into place at the top of the bracket. The gutter should either snap into place or be reasonably snug. A bracket should be mounted to the face-board every 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm). Use a stainless steel lag screw long enough to penetrate the face-board at least 2 inches (5 cm). To keep water from leaking through small cracks or openings at conjoined corners, insulate the aluminum strip further using waterproof caulk.  This aluminum strip can be spray-painted ahead of time to blend in seamlessly with the color of the gutter. Make the strip long enough to extend an inch or two beyond the top of the gutter. Cut a triangular shape into the top of the extending strip, and then fold each corner or the strip over onto the top of the gutter, creating a clean look. Make sure that the tapered end of the downspout is facing down and aimed in the appropriate direction.  To get the downspout to connect with the outlet tube, crimp the downspout with some pliers. Fasten the downspout to the gutters and the downspout to the outlet tube either with pop rivets or the appropriate screws.
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One-sentence summary -- Cut the gutters to size. Attach the gutter brackets on every other rafter tail. Mark the location for the downspout opening on the gutter. Attach the downspout connector and end cap to the gutter using silicone sealant and short metal screws. Mount the gutters. Wrap a thin aluminum strip around the underside of each gutter corner, riveting it into place. Attach the downspout to the gutters via the downspout connector. Seal any gutter connection seams with a heavy bead of sealant and allow to dry overnight.

Problem: Article: The amount of scrapbook related products available to consumers is incredible. If you aren’t extremely careful and disciplined, it is easy to over purchase paper, embellishments, and tools. Make a list of all of the types, colors, patterns, and textures of paper you need for your current project. As you browse the aisles or online pages, do your best to only purchase items on your list.  Making a list can help you stay on budget. Don’t forget to check your home supply of paper before you shop. There is not a hard and fast rule about how much paper you will need for one scrapbook album. The amount of paper required for a project is dependent upon the page count and the amount of embellishments you intend to add to your album. Purchase paper conservatively—you can always return to the store to buy more items if needed. Save the paper that is left over after you've completed a project. Overtime, you will build up a collection of supplies. Before purchasing your supplies, read the stores return policy. Determine if you can get a refund for unused merchandise and how many days you have to return the item(s). When you purchase paper, use the dimensions of your album as a guide. You will need several pages of cardstock, patterned paper, and/or transparency paper to use as background pages. If possible, you should purchase these background pages in the same dimensions as your album.  Scrapbooking albums come in two standard sizes: 12 x 12 inches and 8 ½ x 11 inches. Smaller albums are available in the following dimensions: 8 x 8 inches, 6 x 6 inches, and  5 x 7 inches. Scrapbooking paper is generally sold in two standard sizes: 8 ½ x 11 inches and 12 x 12 inches. If you are making a smaller album, you can cut these papers down to size and use the scraps for embellishments.
Summary:
Create a shopping list. Limit your purchases initially and slowly build your collection. Consider the size of the album.