Write an article based on this "Use an automatic water changer. Siphon out any substrate debris with a gravel siphon. Suck out water from the tank. Take a detailed look at your tank’s interior. Note the temperature of the remaining water. Re-fill the tank with pretreated water. Replace all decorations and plants. Reconnect the filtration system, heater, and light. Rinse off and store your equipment."
article: This is the most efficient, and often preferred, way of performing a partial water change, especially in larger tanks. Attach the device directly to your faucet and then insert one of the connected hoses and siphon attachments into your tank. The device will automatically suck out water for you, until you switch it off. Then, flip the switch again and insert the faucet hose to refill the tank.  This method is especially useful for those people unable to haul multiple buckets of water around in order to perform regular cleanings. It also minimizes the potential to create a watery mess. Just make sure that the new water that you are adding is close to the original temperature of the tank. Check this before starting the automatic suctioning process. If you don’t have an all-in-one system, then you will need to perform the water switch by hand. Start by placing the tube end of your siphon into a bucket. Then, place the siphon tip into the tank’s substrate, usually gravel or sand. Repeatedly insert the siphon deep into the sand at an angle, drawing out both debris and tank water. Don’t feel as if you have to perfectly clean all of the gravel during each change. In fact, it is better if you section off your tank and clean certain areas of the gravel each time. This lessens the impact of the change for your fish. As you move your siphon around, you will notice that your bucket begins to fill with dirty gravel and murky tank water, this is perfectly normal and what you want. However, don’t take it too far. Use your siphon to remove a maximum of 30% of the tank’s water. Going beyond this can irreparably alter your tank’s chemistry. For example, if you have a 10 gallon tank, it is a good idea to use a 3 gallon bucket for water changes. Then, when the bucket is full, you know that you’ve removed the right amount of water. Now that your tank is less full, spend a bit of time checking out the status of your tank from an inside view. If you don’t fully remove your decorations, then perhaps pick them up and look them over for any damage. Check to make sure that all of your heating and filtration systems seem okay in structure. If you have a tank-side thermometer, make a quick note of the temperature of the water post-drain. Otherwise, it is a good idea to dip a thermometer into the water to get a reading. Then, test the temperature of the clean, treated water that you will add to the tank in a bit. Make sure that the two temperatures match. If not, you may need to give it a some more time before completing the change. Water temperature fluctuations can make fish more susceptible to illness. Make sure to take the tank’s temperature again after you’ve added in the fresh water. At this point, you will want to move the pretreated water from the bucket into the tank. You can do this by pouring the water into a pitcher and then emptying the pitcher into the tank. Or, you can hold the bucket with both hands and empty it directly into the tank. Whichever method you choose, just make sure that the water doesn’t rush in super-fast and disturb the gravel and your decorations. Some people like to use their hand, or a plate, to lessen the direct flow of the water into the tank. If you’ve taken out any of your artificial decorations, you can add them back in either immediately before, or directly after, refilling the tank. You can use this as an opportunity to move items around, or to leave items out entirely for a new look. All of the functioning systems that you unplugged at the start of this process now need to be hooked up again. Make sure your hands are dry and carefully reinstall and restart all of these items. Some types of filers, such as the hang-on ones, will need 1-2 cups of water directly fed into the system before they will start working. Create a designated area where you keep all of your tank cleaning supplies. You will want to allow your buckets, scrubbers, and siphon to air dry before storing. Keeping up with regular storage procedures may keep you from having to buy replacements.

Write an article based on this "Fill a small glass jar halfway full with rubbing alcohol. Find a dead insect. Identify and label your insect. Carefully put the insect in the jar. Fill the jar the rest of the way with rubbing alcohol."
article: The rubbing alcohol will preserve the body of the insect and prevent it from decaying, drying out, or breaking into pieces. The jar should be larger than the insect, but not unnecessarily so. If you put a small insect in a large jar, you’ll waste rubbing alcohol.  Most rubbing alcohol is a 70% solution—this should work well for preserving your insects. Stronger rubbing alcohol—at 80 or 85%--is also appropriate, as some insects are better preserved with a stronger alcohol.  Examples of insects that should be preserved in stronger alcohol include: spiders, scorpions, earthworms, and small insects including lice and silverfish.  Make sure that the glass jar has a tight-fitting lid, and does not have any cracks. Keep in mind that soft-bodied insects are most commonly preserved in alcohol. The insect could come from anywhere: a window inside your house, the environment near where you live, or even from a nearby spider’s web. You’ll want to preserve an insect that is still in decent shape. If the insect has been dead for days and is already decaying and breaking apart, preserving it will be less effective. You can also trap insects yourself through a variety of methods: for example, catching moths and butterflies in a butterfly net. While some would object to the ethics of killing insects simply to preserve them, traps are an effective way to make sure you have dead insects available. When preserving insects, it’s important to know which specific species you are dealing with. This is an especially important part of the procedure if you are preserving insects for scientific purposes. The label should include: the genus and species of the insect, the date and location on which the insect was found, and the name of the collector. Tape the completed label to the outside of the alcohol-filled jar. There are many helpful websites that can help you identify the dead insect. Start by checking BugGuide.net or InsectIdentification.org. If these sites aren’t helpful, try to contact a local entomologist. Be delicate, and handle the insect carefully: its body will be very fragile and could easily be crushed. It’s best if you handle the insect with forceps or a pair of tweezers, as your fingers could break or damage part of the insect. If the insect has a stinger (bees, wasps) or is otherwise poisonous, wear latex gloves when handling the body. Only do this once the body of the insect has settled to the bottom of the jar. Pour the rest of the alcohol in slowly. If you pour too fast, the liquid may damage or break the insect’s body.  Close and seal the jar, then store it in a safe location. If you’re planning on starting a large insect collection, it may be prudent to dedicate an entire tabletop to the jars. Store the insect jars far from food, children, and animals.

Write an article based on this "Ask your doctor if castor oil will interfere with any of your medications. See your doctor if your constipation lasts longer than a week. Call your doctor if you have side effects like vomiting, cramps, and diarrhea."
article:
Mention your current prescriptions, especially any blood-thinners, antibiotics, or bone and heart medications. Depending on your medical regimen, you may not want to take castor oil for your constipation. If you haven’t had a bowel movement for 7 days, you need to see your doctor even if you’re treating constipation. You may have a more serious condition, or constipation could cause serious complications. Note that your doctor may recommend a special procedure, depending on your symptoms. Your doctor may do an X-ray, colonoscopy, or other procedure, depending on what they think is causing your constipation. You may be able to use castor oil without experiencing side effects, however, it’s possible that you will notice some abdominal pain, cramps, nausea, diarrhea, vomiting, or fatigue. Fortunately, these symptoms usually fade quickly once the castor oil is out of your system. If you experience any bad abdominal cramps, bloating, vomiting, or dizziness, stop using castor oil immediately and contact a healthcare professional.