Pour a line of emulsion along a side of the screen and use the squeegee to spread a thin line along the entire screen.  Photo emulsion reacts to light, hardening when exposed, so anything not covered by your stencil will turn into a barrier preventing ink from getting through.  Apply emulsion to the flat side of the frame, not the side surrounded by wood. Do this in as dark a room as possible to prevent the emulsion from hardening before you're ready. Expose it to as little light as you can. A closet or bathroom will work well, as long as you can close some curtains You'll need to expose the emulsion to a direct, strong light to prepare it. Following the specification on the photo emulsion bottle, set up a light above your flat black surface. Each emulsion has different times, watts, and distances needed for proper hardening, so be sure to read the bottle before beginning. The lamp should always be 1-2 feet above the emulsion. If the emulsion calls for 30 minutes at 200 watts, set up a lamp with a 200W bulb 1-2 feet above a table. The screen goes under the light. As you're moving the screen, cover it with a towel so it does not react to incidental light. Place it under the lamp in your station, leaving the towel on for now. The screen should be emulsion side up. The mesh will be lifted a few inches off the table and resting on the frame. Place your stencil in the middle of the screen with 4-5 inches of space between the design and the edge of the frame.  You must place your stencil down in reverse to get the right image. Look at your stencil the way you want it, then flip it over before you put it down. Otherwise, you will get a mirror image when you start printing. If there is a breeze, or your stencil is very light, place a clear piece of glass on top of it to keep it from moving. Do not push, prod, or move your screen, light, or stencil once it is placed and set. Simply follow the instructions on your emulsion bottle and remove the screen when it is done. When it is done, remove the stencil and set it aside for later. If you smell anything burning during this process, turn off the light immediately. If you prepared the emulsion correctly, you should see the faint outline of your stencil in the emulsion when the design is removed. Take any high-powered water source (shower, faucet, hose) and wash off the screen, focusing on your image.  The water will wash away the unhardened emulsion around your design. You should see the outline of your stencil appear. Keep on spraying until you can see your image well.  Let the screen dry before moving on to the next step. The mesh should be touching whatever you're printing on, like paper or a shirt. If you're using a shirt, slide some cardboard between the layers of the shirt to prevent the ink from bleeding through. Put a thin line of ink just above your design. Then drag the squeegee over your design firmly, coating the entire stencil in ink. The harder you press the darker your image will be. Pull the screen off the t-shirt/paper with even pressure, then hang the shirt up to dry. Your design will be printed. You can use your silkscreen again with another t-shirt if you want, adding more ink as necessary. Simply wipe down the backside after every shirt and reapply ink. If you're using the same print for multiple days in a row, rinse and dry it at the end of each day.

Summary: Coat your silk screen with a thin layer of photo emulsion. Let the emulsion dry in a dark space. Set up an "exposure area" while waiting for the emulsion to dry. Place your screen under the light in the exposure area. Put your stencil backwards on the middle of the screen. Turn on the light for the recommended time. Blast off the emulsion with cold water. Line up your screen above the object you're printing on. Squeegee some ink over your design. Slowly pull off your silkscreen. Repeat with as many shirts as you want, cleaning the screen occasionally.


Many cars have 2 or more fuse boxes, but there's no universal standard for their placement. Most manufacturers place them near the car’s engine or battery, beneath the steering wheel, or inside the glove box. Look for a gray or black box; it may be labeled as “Fuses.” Check your car’s manual if you have trouble finding the fuse boxes. If you don’t have your manual, search online for “fuse box placement” plus your car’s year, make, and model. Lift the latch on the side of the fuse box to loosen the cover. Check the inside of the lid for a diagram of the devices each fuse controls. Your manual may also include a diagram but, if all else fails, you can also find information on your specific vehicle online.  The diagram will also list the fuse’s amperage, which you’ll need to know to purchase a replacement. Be sure to turn your car off before troubleshooting the fuse box. Some cars and fuse replacement kits include small plastic fuse pullers, which you can use to pluck the fuse from the box. If you don’t have fuse pullers handy, a pair of tweezers will do the trick. In a pinch, you can also carefully pull the fuse from the box with your fingers. Make sure your car is completely off before you pull out the blown fuse. Keep the keys out of the ignition to avoid accidentally putting it in “Run” or “Accessories” mode. Otherwise, you could get a nasty shock. Car fuses are small, so it’s a little tougher to find signs that one blew. Hold it up to the light and look closely inside for a thin wire that connects the 2 sides of the fuse. If the wire is broken, or if you see charred marks, the fuse has blown.  If the wire is intact and the fuse seems fine, double-check your diagram to ensure you have the correct fuse. If you've checked each fuse individually and none have blown, your car’s electrical system may need a mechanic’s attention. If you’re not able to visually tell if the fuse has blown, then you may need to check the fuses with a multimeter to determine if it’s working. Head to an auto shop or major retailer's automotive department to find fuses for your car. Bring the blown fuse with you to ensure you get the right match. Once you’ve purchased the right replacement, simply insert it into the slot where you removed the blown fuse.  Make sure the car is off before you set the fuse into the empty slot. Press down with a little pressure until it pops into place. Car fuses are color-coded, so if the fuses are a different color, you know right away they aren’t a match. Additionally, be sure the prong shape of the new fuse matches the old one. If necessary, ask an employee at the store for help finding the right replacement.
Summary: Look under the hood or dashboard for your vehicle’s fuse box. Find the fuse that controls the device that’s stopped working. Remove the blown fuse from the box using fuse pullers or tweezers. Check the fuse for a broken filament or discoloration. Install a new fuse with an amperage that matches the one that blew.