Go to a shipping supply or craft store and buy a slim cardboard packing container. The box should be thick enough to withstand general wear and tear. If possible, get a box that is slightly larger than your picture frame, that way you can pad it for extra safety. If you’re using a top opening box, put a layer of bubble wrap down, set your picture frame on it, and cover the frame with another layer of bubble wrap. If you’re using a side-opening box, place a small tube of bubble wrap inside, slide your art in, then place another tube of wrap on top. To keep your picture frame from shifting during transit, fill any empty areas with bubble wrap or a similar thick packing material. Put in enough bubble wrap that if you shake the box while it’s closed you cannot feel the painting move. Close the lid of your box and secure the seam with masking tape. Then, wrap all 4 thin sides of the box with additional masking tape, making sure no area goes uncovered. The tape will help reinforce your box, making it less likely to bust open.
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One-sentence summary -- Get a slim cardboard shipping box that is slightly larger than your frame. Put your picture frame in the box. Fill any open space with bubble wrap. Seal the box and reinforce the sides with tape.


The teeth most easily visible, and those which are most commonly used to age a horse, are the incisors. They are found at the front of the mouth and can be seen by peeling the upper lip up, and the lower lip down. The incisors are used to shear grass, which is then passed to the back of the mouth by the tongue, to be chewed by the molars. There is a gap between the incisors and the molars, called the diastema. In this gap, some horses grow extra teeth called "wolf" teeth (actually the first premolar), but these teeth are usually extracted between 2-5 years of age because they interfere with the bit, and they are therefore not relevant to aging. The horse has 6 incisors in the lower jaw and 6 in the upper jaw. The two middle incisors are called the "central" incisors, and moving outwards there is the "intermediate" and then "corner" incisors (which are the incisors in front of the diastema). The horse also has six upper and six lower cheek teeth on each side. These are grinding teeth and are used for chewing. They are difficult to see at the back of the mouth and play no major role in aging a horse. Aging a horse is not straightforward and every clue helps. As well as looking at the teeth, look at the horse itself to gain a general picture as to whether it is a youngster who still has some growing to do, an adult in its prime, or a rickety old nag in its golden years. Look at the horse as you approach, stand back even and appraise him. Does he look sprightly and young, doddery and old, or is he a leggy colt with growing still to do? Take your time and don't feel pressured. It helps to have a notebook to record what you see. There are a lot of factors to consider and it's easy to forget one or two.  To avoid this, perhaps jot a list down of the things you need to inspect in the horse's mouth, and then note beside each what you saw. This allows you to sit down later and draw all the jigsaw pieces together. When preparing to examine the horse's teeth, have the horse restrained in a halter, so you have good access to the mouth.  Have the horse stand in good light, and if it is raining, perform the examination under cover so that you can concentrate without water running down your back. It helps to have an assistant to hold the horse, or even write down notes, so that you are free to concentrate on the teeth. When performing the exam, it is the incisors at the front of the mouth that you will look at. To get a good view, simply lift the top lip and gently push it upwards out of the way. Do the reverse with the bottom lip, pushing it down so that you can clearly see the lower incisors. Be meticulous in your exam so that you don't miss anything. Ask yourself:  At what angle do the upper and lower incisors meet? Stand to the side of the head and decide at what angle the upper and lower incisors meet. Do they meet in a straight line, or at an angle? If the latter, make an estimate as to the angle and write this down. What color of the incisors? Are they white and milky looking (deciduous teeth), or more yellow and brown (adult teeth)? What shape are the incisors? Are they spade shaped with a narrow neck and wide crown (milk teeth), or are they uniformly "tombstone" shaped (adult teeth)? What shape is the biting edge of the incisors? Is it long and narrow (young teeth), oval (adult), or triangular(old)? Are all the teeth present or have some fallen out? After you have attended to the general observations listed above, you should start looking for specific marks and grooves.  Is a hook present on the upper corner incisor? The so called “seven-year hook" is a very useful clue as to the horse's age. Is there a vertical brown mark on the upper corner incisor? If so, does it touch the gum and how far down the tooth does it reach? This is Galvayne's groove and a useful tool to help age the horse. Examine the biting edge of the incisors. Is there a distinct brown line (cup) present, a faint brown line (mark), or a brown spot (star)? It's important to understand that aging a horse by his teeth gets less accurate the older he gets, especially when he is over 10-14 years of age.  Factors such as diet can "age" the teeth, whilst vices (such as crib biting), general dental care, and genetics also play a part. For example a stabled horse eating soft alfalfa hay has less wear on his teeth than a horse out on rough pasture, and in comparison the latter's teeth will make him look older than his true age.
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One-sentence summary -- Familiarize yourself with equine dentition. Know how many teeth the horse should have. Observe the general appearance of the horse when determining its age. Use a notebook to record your findings. Perform the dental exam under the right conditions. Open the horse's mouth. Know which dental features to look for. Look for specific marks and grooves. Understand that aging a horse by its teeth gets more difficult as time goes on.


A set of good mallets will help you bring out the best sounds from the instrument. Mallets can be found packaged with the instrument or at music stores. Many mallet heads are made of plastic, while others are made of nylon, rubber, or metal. Plastic mallets are the perfect choice for beginning players. Plastic and nylon mallets are a useful tool for all players. Metal mallets produce a better quality sound but require more of a deft touch. Many kids play a glockenspiel while sitting. As you advance, the standard is to play the glockenspiel standing. The keys are set in a frame which makes the instrument ideal for the ground or another flat surface. Glockenspiels may also be placed on larger stands so you can play while standing. Find these at music supply stores. Before you play, make sure you feel comfortable. Bending over the keys is painful and sets a bad habit for beginners. Keep your back straight as you reach your hands out towards the keys. Adjust the glockenspiel until you can reach all of them without bending over or reaching up. Sometimes a tough day or nervousness can spill over into playing. Before you begin, take the time to shake out your arms. Practice turning your wrists and shrugging your shoulders until you feel loose. When you pick up the mallets, your grip should not feel tight. Tenseness will wear out your arms. You’ll also strike the keys too hard.
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One-sentence summary --
Buy a pair of plastic mallets. Rest the glockenspiel on a stand or table. Stand or sit up tall. Relax before playing.