In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Many people believe that letting the surviving dog see the body of his deceased companion helps him come to terms with the death. The theory is that the dog forms an understanding that his companion is dead and therefore copes better with the loss; however, there is no scientific proof one way or the other that this is the case, so do what you feel is best for you and your pup.  It's difficult to pinpoint why some dogs do better than others and if viewing the body has anything to do with that. However, it's unlikely that seeing his old friend would do him any harm, so, ultimately, the choice is up to you. Often times, the grief or depression that a dog exhibits after the death of another dog stems from an evident change in "pack order." This can then lead to a lost sense of security or routine. The survival instinct of dogs in the wild means that they don't take time out to grieve, and tend to keep going with the daily pattern of hunting and grooming. Keeping to your normal routine decreases the dog's feeling of stress – the last thing he needs after the loss of a companion is for his world to be turned upside down. Thus, hard as it is when one of the dogs has gone, stick to your usual habits: feed him at the same time as usual, take him for walks, and visit places you normally go. This reassures the dog that life goes on, which in turn helps him to cope. It is human nature to want to comfort a pet after a loss; however, this may not be the best way to alleviate his grief. Take the example of a dog that stops eating. The owner's reaction is then to hand-feed the pet, and praise him when he accepts morsels from the hand. In effect the owner is rewarding the dog for eating from his hand, rather than from a bowl. Thus, when you want the dog to eat from the bowl he refuses, preferring the one-to-one attention of hand-feeding. This becomes a habit that is unhealthy for him and unsustainable for you. A much better option is to act normally around food and feeding time, thus reinforcing the impression that although the other dog has gone, all is still right with his world. Thus, put the food down as usual, and if the dog doesn't eat, after ten minutes throw the food away and don't offer anything else until the next mealtime. This sounds harsh, but in dog language it is enforcing a sense of routine and security, which is what he needs during this time. Dogs need to know their place in "the pack" in order to feel secure, and when a member of their pack passes away, it can leave the survivor feeling confused and anxious. The key to this period of adjustment, be it for the leader or subordinate, is keeping to a regular routine and spending time training or playing with the dog, continuing as normal.  If the deceased dog was the leader, the survivor may feel insecure since his understanding of who is in charge has changed. This can show itself as barking excessively at other dogs, either to assert his new found freedom, or more likely because he feels threatened and barks to warn other dogs off. If the deceased was the subordinate dog, the surviving pack leader may experience a loss of purpose, in that his guidance and support is no longer needed. He may seem restless and aimless as he patrols around, without a pack member to follow his lead. Two dogs that live together are constantly interacting with each together in subtle ways. When one of the dogs dies, his companion may well feel under-stimulated and even bored. It helps the dog to adjust if you can fill the gap with mental stimulation such as games, extra walks, and even teaching him a new trick or two. This excellent one-on-one interaction will divert his attention and strengthen the bond between you. It may even help alleviate your grief, too. The best time to get another dog is when you feel ready, rather than immediately so as to comfort another dog. Dogs are individuals and if the survivor had a strong bond to the deceased, it is unlikely you will replicate this purely by adding another dog into the household – think of it in terms of "buying" a new best friend – as nice as it sounds, it just doesn't work like that. There is also a possibility of making the situation worse by stressing the survivor with a strange dog intruding on his territory. Only get another dog if you're confident the two of you are ready. If you feel strongly that a new dog is the answer, test it out by borrowing a friend's dog and letting them play together. See how your dog reacts and whether it helps or not. If he takes to the other dog, he may be ready. If he doesn't, it's best to wait. If you're dead set on another dog and your current one doesn't take to your friend's, consider another of a different sex or size. Your dog may be likely to take to a dog that's less (or more) intimidating or one of another disposition.
Summary: Consider letting your dog view the body. Keep a regular routine to help him adjust. Be careful not to enable your dog. Give him time to find his place. Fill his time with interactive play. Carefully consider getting a new dog. Test out a friend's dog before adding a new dog to your family.

Problem: Article: An aquarium can be a good choice to keep mice. If you opt for an aquarium, make sure it's at least 10 gallons (about 38 liters) and has a mesh lid to prevent a mouse from escaping. If you have one to three mice, a bigger aquarium is necessary.  Four to five mice need at least a 15 gallon (about 58 liters) aquarium. Five to six mice need a 20 gallon (about 78 liters) aquarium. In general, however, bigger is better for any mouse. Get as big of an aquarium as you can fit in your home. A wire cage is also an option for mice. While an aquarium is usually a better option, you can opt for a cage if you cannot find an aquarium. If you get a cage, make sure to select one that's safe for mice. The size of the cage should be at least 24 by 12 inches (about 61 by 30 centimeters). There should be no more than a quarter inch between wires, as this will prevent mice from escaping. Substrate is the material lining the bottom of the cage. For mice, opt for shredded paper that does not contain ink. Line this on the bottom of the cage. A few centimeters of substrate is adequate for a mouse. Mice are sensitive to heat and cold, so it's important to keep them in an area that's consistently room temperature. Do not put your mouse's enclosure next to heaters, furnaces, or other sources of heat. You should also avoid cold, drafty rooms. Certain types of houses are dangerous for mice. Never keep a mouse in a cardboard box or a wooden enclosure, as mice may chew through these materials. You should also be careful about mice habitats, with a lot of tubes and accessories, sold at pet stores. Mice can get trapped and injured in these kinds of enclosures. A mouse's enclosure needs daily cleaning. Each day, use a cat litter scoop to remove soiled bedding. Once a week, you should give the enclosure a thorough cleaning.  Place your mice in a separate container. Remove all the bedding, any cardboard toys, and food and water bowls. Use dish washer detergent and water to wash the insides of the enclosure, as well as food and water bowls and plastic toys. Allow everything to dry completely. Replace all the bedding with new material. Place food and water bowls, as well as plastic toys, back in the cage. Discard old cardboard toys and replace them with new ones.
Summary:
Get the right aquarium size. Use a wire cage. Add substrate. Place the enclosure in the right location. Avoid dangerous houses. Clean the cage regularly.