Write an article based on this "Find or create  a wire base. Anchor the arch. Blow up four balloons with a balloon pump. Tie two balloons together by the tails in a double-knot. Twist the balloon pairs together to make a clover shape. Tie or twist the balloons to your wire. Repeat the process to make more rows."
article: Use wire cutters to cut a long piece of sturdy wire to the length and height you want the arch to be. You can also purchase a balloon arch kit from the store, and use the wire frame from there. Because wire gets flimsier the longer you cut it, this method is best used for smaller arches. Stick the ends of the arch into a bucket filled with gravel, pebbles, or sand. If you bought a pre-made arch from the store, it may already have a flat, base or platform. In this case, place something heavy, such as a brick or cinderblock on the base to weigh it down.  Add a thin layer of colored sand or pebbles to your bucket. This will hide the plain sand or pebbles. Wrap bricks or cinderblocks in paper that matches your balloons. You can also paint them to match the base of your balloon arch. They can all be the same color, or they can be different ones. Tie the tail end of each balloon into a knot as soon as you finish blowing it up. Try to make each balloon the same size.  Use a regular pump for this method, not a helium tank. You don't have to use a balloon pump for this, but your lungs may get tired after a while. If you are having trouble with this, you can tie the balloons together using string instead. Repeat this step for the remaining two balloons. You should now have two balloon pairs. Place your first set of balloons over the second one in a cross shape. Pull the bottom two balloons upward. Pull the left one to the right, and the right one to the left. You will have something that looks like a four-leaf clover. Alternatively, you can tie the balloons together in a cross shape with some string. Pull the balloon clover against the wire. Make sure that the wire is resting against the knot in the middle of the clover. Twist the two adjacent balloons together so that they close in front of the wire. You can also secure the balloons to the wire with string or colorful ribbon. Blow four balloons at a time. Twist them into sets, then twist the sets together to make a clover. Slide the clover onto the wire, just above the bottom row of balloons, and secure it. Keep doing this until the wire is filled.  You can use all the same color or you can alternate colors. Stagger the balloons. Let the balloons in row two rest in the cracks between the balloons in row one.

Write an article based on this "Consider the environment. Minimize confinement. Consider the experience of the rider and the horse. Ensure good vision. Check for discomfort."
article: Your horse could get spooked if there is a change in their environment. Walking the same trail at a different time of day, for instance, could change the environment for your horse enough that he or she may be more prone to spooking. These kinds of changes in the environment must be considered in order to minimize the possibility that the horse may become spooked to begin with. Horses that are confined for long periods such as over the winter may have pent up energy that causes them to react more dramatically to unfamiliar sights or sounds. Even horses that are stalled much of the time may get spooked by their surroundings, which is why turning a horse out to pasture daily is a good idea. After a long winter's confinement, running in a pasture can help get the horse ready for riding with a minimum of spook behavior. An experienced rider can help lead a horse in a way that minimizes spooking, but an inexperienced rider may react in such a way as to increase the likelihood of spooking. Horses respond to the nervousness of their rider with their own nervousness, and the posture of a scared rider can be interpreted by the horse as encouragement to speed up. For these reasons, the experience of both the horse and rider is important to minimizing spooking. One reason a horse may spook is impaired vision. This is often considered to be the most common reason a horse is more prone to spooking. An examination by a veterinarian is a good way to help ensure your horse will not spook due to vision problems. A horse that is uncomfortable is more prone to spooking. If the horse is in pain due to something as serious as a medical condition or something as simple as improper saddle fit, the problem must be corrected to help minimize spooking. Some other problems that might cause pain and spooking include the fitting or type of bit used, sharp teeth edges, or objects stuck in the bottom of one or more of the horse's hooves.

Write an article based on this "Hold the knife with the thumb grip. Raise the knife up and out to the side of your body. Rotate your hips and shoulders. Use a whip-like motion to throw the knife."
article:
Assume the thumb grip. This will be the most efficient way of minimizing the knife’s rotation in flight. Press the handle of the knife snugly between your thumb and middle finger, but don’t squeeze too tight. During the throw, your wrist and forearm should move as one. With the thumb grip, the blade must be flung with the arm and shoulder using a pushing motion, rather than the snap of the wrist which usually causes the knife to spin. Extend your throwing arm with the knife held upright just above and behind your head. The blade should be almost vertical, hovering out at a shallow angle. When using the Russian technique, the knife should point slightly out to your dominant side before it is thrown. Bend your elbow a little so that the blade of the knife is nearly parallel to the ground. Stay loose and ready to time your throw.  Holding the knife out further from your body creates additional torque, allowing you to throw the knife with more force. The Russian technique requires a little more room to move, so be aware of your surroundings before you start waving the knife around. Initiate the throwing motion by winding up with your upper body. Turn your hips and shoulders a few inches away from the target in the same direction of your knife hand (right-handed knife throwers will turn clockwise, left-handed throwers should turn counterclockwise). The Russian no-spin throwing technique relies on lateral motion to generate force, which means you’ll be focusing on the movement of your midsection rather than just your arm. Don’t let your knees or feet turn as you twist your upper body. This will throw off your base, as you’ll no longer be facing the target. Once you’ve drawn back all the way, reverse the motion suddenly. Rotate your hips and shoulders in the opposite direction. At the same time, sling your arm out at an angle, releasing the knife just before your throwing hand lines up with the target. Follow through with the throw the way you would if you were cracking a whip, keeping your arm extended until the blade makes contact.  The trickiest part of the Russian technique is timing your release correctly. It’s more difficult to gauge where the knife will end up as you’re throwing from the side and not centering the blade’s path with your line of sight like with vertical throws. Despite the somewhat complicated mechanics, the Russian method of no-spin throwing is thought to be more consistently accurate than other techniques.