Don’t just look for a shampoo that says “for oily hair." Instead, look for the words “clarifying” and “oil reducing." Many companies make specific formulas that for people that have oily hair. Shampoo does remove oil from your hair. However, using shampoo every day strips your hair of natural oils, and if often produces extra oil to compensate. Try shampooing every other day and note the results after 1-2 weeks. Most hair products trap oil near your scalp, causing build-up that results in oily, greasy hair. Stay away from these products whenever possible. Regular brushing spreads oil throughout your hair, which prevents shiny or greasy build-up. Aim to brush your hair once a day. Excessive brushing, however, can cause your hair to produce more oil, so limit yourself to 1-2 daily. Hot showers, blow-dryers and excessive sunlight all tell your body to produce more oil to protect your hair. Whenever possible, take cold showers and use the cool setting on your blow-dryers to prevent your hair from building up new oils. Your hands and face secrete oils as well, so constantly running your fingers through your hair deposits those oils on your head. Cutting this habit can keep your hair from becoming oily throughout the day.

Summary: Pick the right shampoo. Don’t use shampoo every day. Avoid mousse, gel, and other hair products. Brush your hair regularly. Stay away from heat. Avoid touching your hair.


Emulsion that sits in storage will usually develop lumps and skin. It might be a good idea to strain these solid portions and mix the paint before use.  Check the manufacturer's recommendations since the best mixing practices can vary by brand and make. Place tights or cheesecloth over the paint bucket, then pour the paint into a separate bucket through that material. Doing so will generally strain most solid pieces from the paint. You should also use a wooden paint stirrer to quickly combine the paint before use. Using a basecoat will help cover any color or pattern currently on your wall, thereby preventing that original color from showing through your final overcoat of paint.  To prepare a basecoat, combine one part white emulsion with three parts water in a clean, empty bucket. Use a paint stick to thoroughly blend the mixture. Apply the basecoat using the same technique you'll use for the overcoat emulsion. “Cut in” the seams of the wall using a paintbrush, then apply it to the remaining wall surface using a paint roller. Allow the basecoat to thoroughly dry before proceeding with the overcoat. You should “cut in” the emulsion around the seams of the wall using a paintbrush. After the seams are covered, switch to your paint roller and apply the emulsion to the rest of the wall.  Cutting in should be done around all seams of the wall and in any area the roller won't reach. This includes any area where the wall meets other walls, ceiling, or floor. Additionally, all seams around electrical outlets, light switch plates, doors, and windows should also be cut in. Any area that can be easily accessed with a roller should generally be painted with a roller. Other tools, including large paint brushes and paint pads, can be used instead of a roller, but for the sake of ease and consistency, paint rollers are generally best. You may need to use more than one coat of emulsion, but you should allow each coat to finish drying before applying another one over it.  This also means that you should allow the white basecoat to dry before applying a top coat in your final color. The necessary number of coats will vary depending on the color you choose and the original color of the wall. Dark colors are difficult to paint over and may require as many as three coats, especially if your new paint is lighter. For more specific guidelines, check the emulsion manufacturer's recommendations, which can usually be found on the label. If any emulsion drops onto the floor or onto another hard surface you don't wish to paint, immediately wipe it away with a damp rag.  Since emulsion paint is water-based, it's usually easier to clean than oil-based paints. Get to the spill before it dries, however. If the spill does dry, you may need to apply an appropriate paint thinner to the area before wiping it clean.

Summary: Strain and stir the paint. Apply a basecoat. Paint the seams before painting the broader surface. Allow the emulsion to dry completely in between coats. Immediately clean any spills.


Take a hose and wet the ground directly around the tree until the soil is damp. This will soften the ground and make digging the tree out easier. It also reduces stress for the tree and keeps some soil attached to its roots. Using a shovel, dig up the topsoil from the roots nearest to the trunk. Continue digging up the topsoil until you reach the approximate length of the tree's root ball.  The root ball is the sphere of roots that you will replant in another location. As a general rule, there should be 10–12 inches (25–30 cm) of root ball for every 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the tree's diameter. Keep the spade faced away from the tree as you dig. Shape the roots in a circle that will become the tree's root ball. Cut away any large roots that go beyond your mark with pruning shears. If you're planning on transplanting the tree you need to be careful not to remove too many roots. A general rule is for every inch in diameter of the trunk, there needs to be 10"-12" of root ball. Lift the root ball up with your shovel and have another person work a square of burlap beneath the roots. Set the root ball back down and lift it out of the ground by the burlap.  Keep the burlap tied around the root ball until you're ready to replant it.  Burlap is important because it is biodegradable. It keeps the roots safe and together until you're ready to plant the tree and then decomposes into the soil afterward.

Summary: Water the soil surrounding the tree the day before you remove it. Remove the topsoil surrounding the top roots. Dig the roots out with a spade. Dig underneath the root ball and pull it out of the ground.


A safe and easy option for creating an obstacle course is to make use of inflatable obstacles.  Since these obstacles are inflatable they pose a low risk of injury and can add an appealing and lighthearted feeling to your obstacle course.  Check your local businesses and services to see if any nearby vendors offer inflatable obstacles either for sale or rent.  Most inflatable obstacles are designed with children in mind. Inflatable obstacles are easy to place, requiring little to no assembly. After you have your obstacles and their arrangement planned out you will need to acquire the materials that will be used to create the obstacles.  The materials you need will vary greatly depending on what you have planned for your course.  Look over some of the following ideas to get you started:  Hula hoops can make great markers for jumping or agility obstacles. A simple board can make a quick balancing beam. Hay bales or couch cushions can make a fun jumping obstacle. Small sport cones can outline the obstacle course or be obstacles themselves. Having assembled your obstacles you can begin to place them according to your obstacle course layout plan.  Place the obstacles where you planed them and evaluate their position before opening up our course to others.  You might find that a planned location for an obstacle doesn't work well.  Don't be afraid to make changes. Try doing the obstacle course yourself once you've built it to evaluate how well it works. Once you've built and tested your course it's time to open it up to others.
Summary: Consider inflatable obstacles. Gather materials. Place them according to plan.