Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Contact a local beekeeper or nonprofit group first. Reach out to a bee removal service if you can’t find a local beekeeper. Contact an exterminator if the hive can’t be removed.

Answer: Go online and search for beekeepers in your area. Call each beekeeper to see if they are interested in the hive, even if they don’t mention picking them up on their website. Beekeepers are experienced in safely removing bees without killing them and will happily relocate them. There are also nonprofit bee removal services that keep bees from becoming endangered in high-risk areas where their pollination skills are especially important. You normally won’t need to pay a beekeeper to remove a hive. If you do, the fee won’t be particularly high, although it depends on where you live. If there are no beekeepers or nonprofit groups in your area, call a bee removal service. You will have to pay to have the bees removed, but a bee removal service will remove the bees safely and thoroughly. Bee removal experts often sell or give away their hives and will not kill the bees unless absolutely necessary. If the hive is easily accessed and the swarm isn’t particularly big, bee removal will cost $75-200. If drywall needs to be removed or the hive is in a tricky location, like a roof, it may cost up to $1,500. If removing the bees is not an option because the colony is inaccessible, contact a local exterminator. This is the worst option, since bees are good for the environment and the chemicals in commercial bee pesticides can damage a home, but you can certainly hire an exterminator to kill the bees if it’s the only way to have them removed.  An exterminator will cost roughly $200-300, but a new colony is more likely to return if the exterminator doesn’t remove the hive or handle it properly. Make sure that you hire an exterminator with experience removing bees. If a large number of bees die and their corpses are not removed, they will break down and leave a particularly funky odor behind that will take some time to get rid of.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Water regularly. Keep the weeds under control. Fertilize during the second year. Train the branches. Watch out for chestnut blight. Protect the tree against insect pests, as well.

Answer:
During its first month or two, the chestnut tree will need 1 gallon (3.8 L) (4 L) of water each week. After the first month or two, you should still make sure that the tree receives 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water each week during the growing season. You do not need to water the tree when it loses its leaves and becomes dormant. Weeds and grasses should be kept at least 2 feet (0.61 m) (61 cm) away from new seedlings. For established trees, keep the ground bare all the way out to the ends of the tree's branches.  The best way to do this is by applying organic mulch around the tree. Mulch also helps the soil retain moisture. An herbicide can be used to get rid of weeds, as well, but you need to protect the trunk of the tree before you apply an herbicide to the area. You can apply fertilizer to the tree on a yearly basis starting its second year outdoors.  Do not fertilize the seedling when you plant it. Doing so will encourage leaf production, but the tree needs to focus its efforts on root production during this time. Use a standard fertilizer containing balanced amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (usually labeled as 10-10-10 fertilizer). During the tree's first two or three years, you should train it to follow a modified central leader form.  Pick a sturdy central, upright stem. This will be the tree's central leader. Pinch back, bend down, or cut off any other stems that compete with your chosen leader. Major scaffold limbs growing off your main stem should be spaced 1 foot (0.30 m) (30.5 cm) apart along the central leader, growing in a spiral rotation. After the tree establishes itself, trim the limbs so that the lowest still gives you enough room to mow under the tree. When the central leader reaches 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 m) high, cut it down so that it is as short as a side branch. This will allow the tree to grow wider instead of higher. Chestnut blight is the only major disease you will need to worry about, but it can present a significant threat.  The fungus gathers around the trunk of the tree, fixating mostly on areas that are cracked or wounded. It eventually develops into a large canker. When the canker wraps all the way around the tree, the tree itself will die. You will need to completely remove the tree and plant any future chestnut trees in a different location. Chestnut blight is almost impossible to treat once it infects a tree, even if you use a strong fungicide. Prevention is your best option. Plant blight-resistant chestnut tree varieties and make sure that the roots are never allowed to sit in soggy, overly-wet conditions. There are several different insect pests that may attack your tree, but the biggest problem is usually the chestnut weevil.  Adult weevils lay eggs in developing nuts. When the eggs hatch, the larvae consumes the meat inside of the nut. Get rid of the weevils before they become a problem by spraying the tree with an insecticide once nut burs begin to develop. Alternatively, you can lay a sheet beneath the tree and give the branches a sturdy shake. Most of the weevils should fall off. You can then collect them in the sheet and dispose of it. You need to kill the adult weevils before they can lay eggs. There is no way to remove the pests once they find their way into the nuts.