Q: Grounding rods need to made of specific conductive metals and they need to made to a specific length and width. Because of this, it's best to buy a rod that is specifically made for this use. Buying a listed rod, meaning it has been verified by a certification group, will ensure that your grounding rod is the correct size and material. Most home improvement and hardware stores stock approved grounding rods.   In the US, ground rods need to be at least 8 feet (2.4 m) long. If they are listed, they need to be at least 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) wide and they will have a mark that says they are listed. If they are not listed, they need to be at least 5⁄8 inch (1.6 cm) wide.  A listed ground rod will have a marking near the top of it that states that it is approved. The mark allows an electrical inspector to immediately know you have used a proper rod. Because a ground rod is so long, it can be hard to get leverage on the top of it when you start installing it. To get the top down to a more manageable level, dig a hole 2–4 feet (0.61–1.22 m) deep. By putting the end of the ground rod in the hole, it will be easier to start hammering the top of the rod. If you don't want to dig a hole or you can't for some reason, you will need a ladder or step stool to get up high enough to start pounding in the top of the ground rod. Using your hammer, drill, or driving tool, gradually drive the rod vertically into the ground. You need to drive your rod all the way into the ground. The electrical code states that it must have 8 feet (2.4 m) of contact with the ground, so you need to drive it all the way down.  Driving a ground rod into the ground can take a long time and can be difficult work. If you can find someone to take turns driving the rod, it will make for a much easier job. Some electrical inspectors will allow you to leave 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) sticking up out of the ground. However, some want the entire thing covered in earth.
A: Purchase an approved grounding rod. Start digging a hole with a shovel or post-hole digger. Drive the rod into the ground.

Q: If it’s raining, or has recently rained and you don’t have access to dry firewood, it’s still possible to keep your fire burning. It just takes more effort and patience.  Focus on building up a small flame in one area of your fire pit. The larger the wet area and material, the harder it will be to create enough heat for a sustainable fire. Use extra tinder and kindling. Don’t try to light a whole log just yet. Work on building a flame with paper and sticks. Birch trees have good bark for quick burning even when it’s raining as the bark has natural oils which repel moisture. If you can, place a tarp or something over your fire to block any rain. Just make sure it’s enough to prevent scorching or catching fire. Use a dry towel or even dry clothes to wrap all of your wood and burning materials in. Damp the wood down and try your best to suck up or get rid of as much moisture as possible.  If you suspect you may encounter rain, grab a canister before you go out and fill it with dry twigs, pine cones and needles. An oatmeal tin works great for storing small kindling and will keep it dry. When burning a fire outdoors, it’s always a good idea to have extra logs which you keep wrapped up just in case of rain. A grouping of smaller logs and kindling will be easier to light individually than one large log. In addition, you can try to light anything that will burn to get your fire started, or keep it going.  Waterproof matches, a lighter, or flint and steel are your best best for sparking a flame. Foods that have a lot of carbohydrates can also be used as fuel in a pinch. Foods like chocolate and marshmallows work well. If you have a hatchet or other way to split logs, use it. Split logs down the middle to expose the dry area. Stand the logs up and face the dry bark towards the flame.
A:
Start small. Wrap your wood in a towel before trying to burn. Use smaller logs, sticks, and anything else at your disposal.