Article: Dandruff, clinically referred to as seborrheic dermatitis, often presents in a yellowish-whitish color. Therefore, try examining the patches on your head. If it's more silvery white, it's likely psoriasis. If it's more yellowish, it's more likely dandruff. Psoriasis often presents as fairly powdery or dry, so check the patches on your head for greasiness. If it seems greasy, it's more likely dandruff than psoriasis. You may even be able to tell just from looking at it whether it seems greasy or dry. Dandruff usually stays just on the scalp rather than moving past the hairline. Therefore, if you notice patches that move past the hairline, that's more likely to be psoriasis than dandruff. If it stays just on your head, it could still be either psoriasis or dandruff. . Ringworm may be mistaken for psoriasis or dandruff as well. Ringworm causes bald patches on your head that are itchy and scaly, which may seem like a dandruff problem or psoriasis. However, ringworm is a fungal infection, which requires treatment with antifungal medications. See your doctor to be sure about what is causing the flaking on your head.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Look for a yellowish color for dandruff. See if it's greasy or dry. Notice where your patches end. Check to see if it might be ringworm

Problem: Article: The separate sides of a two-part mold join along the centerline of the master object. Retrieve your master item, a permanent marker, and a ruler. Draw a straight centerline around your master item. Set a block of non-toxic and non-drying molding clay on your work surface. Embed the master item into the clay up to the centerline. The top of the item should line up with the top of the clay bed. There should be a 1 inch border of clay surrounding the remaining 3 sides of the item. Alignment keys join the 2 halves together perfectly. Retrieve four ½ inch alignment keys and a bottle of temporary adhesive. Apply a thin layer of temporary adhesive to the flat side of the alignment key. Place the key in ¼ inch from the top left corner and adhere it directly to the clay. Place 1 key in each of the remaining 3 corners. In order to fill the mold, you must provide an opening. For this mold, the opening will appear at the top of the clay bed. Apply a thin layer of temporary adhesive over the top of the master item—the side not embedded in clay—and the top side of the clay bed (the side directly below the top of the master item). Press this side flush against a wooden or metal retaining wall. Allow it to dry. A layer of silicone mold putty will form 1 of the mold’s inner walls. Coat the master part with a release agent. Apply a layer of mold putty to the exposed half of the master item. Apply mold putty to the clay bed’s surface, carefully covering the alignment keys. Extend the molding putty ½ inch up the retaining wall. Apply a thin layer of temporary adhesive to the bottom side of the clay bed (the side parallel to the top of the master item). Press this side flush against a wooden or metal retaining wall. Allow the adhesive and the molding putty to cure for 1 hour. Due to the flexibility of cured molding putty, it is necessary to create a second more durable shell, known as a mother shell. You will create the mother shell with plaster sheets.  Cut 4 to 6 sheets of plasters. Each sheet should be 6 inches longer than the mold. Layer the sheets on top of eachother.  Dip the sheets in bowl filled with room temperature water for 1 second. Remove the excess water by squeezing the sheets over the bowl. The sheets should be wet, not dripping with water. Lay the sheets over the mold and up the retaining walls. Press the sheets into the mold so that they form to the shape. Crease the edges along the retaining walls into crisp 90° angles—the plaster sheets lining the retaining walls will serve as feet.  Allow the plaster to cure for 30 minutes. Once the plaster has hardened, remove the two retaining walls. Flip the entire mold over so that it is resting on the 2 plaster feet. Carefully remove the clay bed and any remnants remaining on the master part. If the key alignments do not come off with the clay bed, remove these as well. When creating the second half of the 2 part mold, you will repeat the process you just completed:  Apply a release agent to the master part. Attach the top of the mold to a retaining wall. Coat the master part in a layer of molding putty. Attach the bottom of the mold to a retaining wall. Create a mother shell out of plaster sheets. Once the plaster has cured for 30 minutes, you can safely disassemble the mold. Remove the two retaining walls from the mold. Place the mold upside down on your workspace. Remove the mother shell and carefully peel away the silicone mold. Set aside the master part and reassemble the mold.
Summary: Draw a centerline on your master part. Embed half of the master item in a clay bed. Attach 4 alignment keys to the top of the clay bed. Secure the master part to a retaining wall. Cover the master item’s exposed half with silicone mold putty. Attach a second retaining wall. Create a durable mother shell. Remove the retaining walls and clay bed. Create the second half of the 2 part mold. Remove the master part from the mold.

Your face is the first giveaway that could cost you a game of poker. Keeping your emotions and reactions in check regarding hands dealt to you is a key part of poker. Any type of expression sacrifices your power in situations with your opponents. Clear your mind, wiggle your face to loosen the muscles, take a deep breath, and relax.  You want to be in control of the situation and if you’re too stressed, you can lose that control. Hiding your reactions is power because no one knows what you’re thinking or what you’re about to do. You can win the upper hand by showing people you are confident and intimidating by locking eyes with them. Meeting people’s eyes also shows that you have nothing to hide so they don’t know what to expect from you. Look at the bridge of their nose to stare them down and keep your focus. Staring into space or focusing too hard on your cards is also how your poker face can be compromised. It either shows that you aren’t paying attention, or that you’re concerned for your hand and chances. Remind yourself to blink so that your eyes don’t dry out while you concentrate.  Excessive blinking can also show nervousness, so don’t go overboard. There’s a balance between blinking enough to keep from staring and keeping your eyes focused so they don’t flit around. Staring too hard can also cause your shoulders to bunch up and posture to suffer. Focusing too hard on one thing visually can also distract you and you may miss an important play. Your mouth is the main support for your face muscles and any tension, smile, frown, or smirk will influence the rest of your face. Relax your jaw first by letting it go slack, creating space between your back teeth. Open and close your mouth a few times to help relax as well.  Avoid showing your teeth. Whether it’s for a small grin or grimace, visible teeth means your mouth is moving and movement can give you away. Don’t grind your teeth. Your jaw will show the pressure your teeth are under. Don’t look up or to the left or right out of the corners of your eyes. These are all tells which are little clues to your opponents that you have something to hide, whether it’s a good hand of cards or bad. It’s hard to do, but minimize your eye movements. Even squinting or excessive eyebrow raises can give away your reaction. To protect yourself, wear sunglasses so you don’t have to worry about giving anything away with your eyes. Sunglasses won’t be a problem indoors if you have enough lighting.
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One-sentence summary --
Relax your face. Maintain eye contact with others. Blink occasionally to avoid staring. Keep your lips together and jaw relaxed. Look straight ahead. Wear sunglasses to conceal where you are looking.