Article: Drinking a citrus juice like orange juice may help to inhibit UV induced pigmentation. Citrus fruits contain vitamin C, which promotes collagen production (necessary for the creation of new skin cells), is a powerful antioxidant and has been shown to inhibit skin darkening due to UV exposure. Lemons tend to work best, but any citrus fruit will work, including oranges, limes, and grapefruit. You can obtain similar results from papaya. You can apply the diluted juice directly to your face, or combine with honey to make a mask. Honey both thickens the juice to make a mask possible and has its own health benefits: it is an antimicrobial, moisturizes the skin and prevents wrinkles. The peel and fleshy parts of citrus fruit contain compounds that help to whiten the skin. For even better results, consider adding them in one of two ways:  Dry the peel, grind it up, and add it to your mask. Consider mixing with yoghurt to produce a soothing mask.  Chop the entire fruit into pieces and process it, skin and all, in a fruit processor. Use the resulting paste as the base for your mask. While the flesh of the fruit is beneficial, the peels and seeds are the most potent part of papaya.  Consider processing the papaya fruit along with the skin to produce a mask. For even better results, mix with lemon juice. You can purchase papaya seed extract and use it with honey to make a mask, or combine it with the processed fruit. Make your own papaya seed extract by crushing papaya seeds and placing them in water for two weeks. Shake daily. Filter and use the water in your mask. The juice in citrus fruits can react with UV light to cause photodermatitis, a painful condition resulting in a rash, blisters or scaly skin. Wash it off with lukewarm water.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Drink citrus juice. Use citrus to make a mask. Squeeze the juice from the fruit and dilute with water. Consider using the entire fruit. Use the seeds and skin if using papaya. Do not go outside while wearing the mask. Leave the mask on for 15 to 20 minutes.

Problem: Article: By adding moisture to the sod, you'll make it clumpier and easier to work with your shovel or spade. Do this by watering your unwanted sod a few days before you start removal.  If you over water, the soil may become muddy. Muddy soil is very difficult to work with a shovel. Only water your sod until the soil is moist. Test your soil so see how much moisture is in it by sticking your shovel into the sod you wish to remove and wiggling it back and forth to make a small, narrow hole. Then gauge soil dryness with a touch test. If you plan on reusing your sod somewhere else around your home or garden, prioritize using an edger. These kinds of machines will give you straight, clean cuts. Your strips of sod should be roughly 1-foot-wide (30 cm) each and approximately 3 feet (0.91 m) in length (91 cm).  Sod is almost like carpet. The roots of the grass weave together to form a thin layer of greenery on the top of the soil. When cut into strips, you can roll up sod for easier handling. Strips that are larger than one foot wide may be too cumbersome for you to handle without help, even if rolled up carpet style. Sod is very heavy. Even if you've cut your sod into manageable segments, you may need someone's help to move it. You may also want to keep some pallets handy to put the removed sod onto and then either hire someone to pick them up or get a few people to help you load the pallets into a truck to take them away. You only need to break through the top layer of sod with a shovel, spade, or edger to prepare your sod for removal. You don't need to dig especially deep. in a checkerboard pattern for large scale removal. You can use your shovel, spade, or edger to cut additional 1-foot-wide (30 cm) parallel strips that run perpendicular to your previous cuts. After this sod is cut, it can be pulled free of the ground and disposed of. The smaller squares of sod will be easier to handle and can be stacked in a truck, trailer, or wheelbarrow, one on top of another. The roots of the sod will still be gripping the soil beneath it. This will offer slight resistance, but you should be able to pull the sod free by pulling on it with your hand or prying it up with your shovel, spade, or pitchfork. If you want to keep your sod in one continuous piece, use a spade or pitchfork to cut through the taproots so there is minimal resistance to your removal. In some cases, soil will cling to the roots of your sod in clumps. You can usually knock these free easily with your hand, but more stubborn soil might be removed more efficiently with a shovel or other suitable tool. Clumps of soil might not seem like a big deal at first, but if you plan on rolling or stacking your sod, soil clumps could make your sod uneven and more difficult to transport.
Summary: Water the sod you wish to remove. Use a shovel, spade, or an edger to cut strips into the sod. Cut your sod Pry up sod squares with a spade or pitchfork. Break up soil clumps with your hand or a gardening tool.

Use a measuring tape to determine the width of your aluminum. Afterwards, select an appropriate sized chisel. Common sizes are 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm), 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm), 3⁄4 inch (1.9 cm), and 1 inch (2.5 cm). For example, if your aluminum piece is 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) wide, use a chisel that is 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) wide. to a 60- to 70-degree bevel using a honing guide. Fit your chisel into your honing guide (a tool that clamps onto your tool either from the sides or from above and below) and tighten the screws on both sides to keep it in place. Set the guide to the appropriate angle, and then place the bevel (the metal edge of your chisel) against a second-cut, medium-coarse file. Hold the guide with both hands and move the chisel back and forth in a thin, figure-eight pattern. Once you notice scratches on your chisel's bevel, switch to a medium grit. When new scratches begin to appear, switch to a fine grit. Wipe the bevel between each grit using a dry, clean cloth. Position the piece in the center of the vice's jaws. Make sure that it's tightened firmly in place. Be sure to use a heavy-duty model bench vice. Hold the chisel tip against the metal—perpendicular to it—with your non-dominant hand. Use a ball-peen hammer to strike the chisel's handle and always cut perpendicular to the jaws of the vice. Continue striking the metal until there is a notch in it. At this point, you should easily be able to snap it into 2 pieces with your hands.  You should be able to cut your aluminum metal piece within 30 seconds. Anything longer and you're probably using the wrong sized chisel, or you need to use a saw.  Add 1 drop of 30-weight machine oil to the chisel's edge for lubrication. This makes it easier for your chisel to get into your aluminum's hardened grains of metal. Never use a claw hammer—the heads are not designed for hitting hard metal and are prone to chipping. If you're cutting a line in a sheet of aluminum, you can skip the vice and cut your way down the sheet on a flat surface. Use wood as a backing piece to help push the chisel through the metal and prevent the chisel's tip from wearing.
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Purchase a cold chisel that is 1 size wider than the aluminum. Sharpen your chisel Place your aluminum piece into your vice and tighten it. Align the chisel with your vice's screw and hammer the aluminum.