Q: to preserve them for a longer period of time. Set 3 bulbs out next to one another with the stems overlapping. Wrap the stems around one another by crisscrossing the stems 2-3 times before tying the stems in place with string. Add 2-3 bulbs above your original bulbs and layer the stalks around one another by wrapping the stems and tying them in place. Repeat this process until you’ve braided 8-12 bulbs. Tie the remaining stalks together to keep the braid secure.  Trim any stems that are sticking out of your braid line using scissors or shears. Hardneck garlic will shatter or break if you try to braid it if you didn’t wrap the stems in a damp towel while you were drying it. Once you’ve secured your braid, use the last stem at the top to tie the braid up. You can store the braid in your kitchen on a hook or cabinet fixture, or use a clothing line to string it up in the air. Braided garlic will typically stay fresh for 6-12 months after hanging. If you don’t want to hang your garlic, trim the stems off of your bulbs using shears or scissors. Then, place your individual bulbs inside of a mesh bag or set them out in a bowl on your counter. Garlic will typically last 4-6 months if stored in the open. If possible, store your garlic in an area where the temperature is typically 60–65 °F (16–18 °C). Keep the garlic out of direct light if you can. If you dried your garlic in a dehydrator, set the slices inside of an airtight food storage container. Close the container and press down along the edges of the lid to ensure that the container is completely closed. Leave your container out on your counter and store the garlic at room temperature for 2-3 months.  If possible, store the garlic in an area of your home that does not get hotter than 60–65 °F (16–18 °C). Wrap a dark towel around the package to keep the garlic out of direct light.
A: Braid your bulbs Hang your braid from a clothing line or hook in your kitchen for 6-12 months. Store stemless bulbs at room temperature for 4-6 months. Keep sliced garlic in an airtight container for 2-3 months.

Article: Check for the right consistency and empty the mortar into a wheelbarrow or into individual buckets to lay out on a board and start using. Make sure everything is pre-wet, or you'll have some trouble with the mortar sticking to it. It should slide out easily, if you've done everything correctly. Getting dry concrete in your eyes, lungs, or on your hands can be very painful and dangerous. It's very important to wear gloves any time you're handling mortar, as well as safety glasses, and a face-mask when you're mixing up the dry cement. It can have a tendency to cloud up and get in your face, and is very hazardous to the lungs. Use caution and always equip yourself safely. Mortar dries quickly, which is partially why it's effective and so good to work with. You can lay courses as fast as you can keep up with it. Eventually, the mortar on your board will start to dry out some, so it's helpful to keep a small cup of water with you to drip a little on and mix up with your trowel to keep that good consistency. Using overly-dry mortar will result in weak walls, which can especially be a problem if you're laying a foundation. It's important to keep the mix wet enough and workable enough to be effective. After an hour and a half or two hours, mortar tends to start to become too dry and unworkable, even if you add a tiny amount of water to what you're using. Plan out your work project carefully and only mix as much as you'll need for the job at hand. You won't be able to use it later.  When using lime and you are not as fast or it is your first time laying brick, try mixing smaller batches. Mix just enough mud to use within 45 - 60 minutes. If you are able to get help, have someone mix and carry the mortar for you. At the end of a hard day of block-laying, you've still got an important job to do: knocking all the hard and dried mortar off the mixer, your boards, your wheelbarrows, and other tools. There are all sorts of different methods for doing this, but the most effective is also the most simple. Use a hammer to bang on your tools and collect the dry mortar to dispose of it properly. Don't neglect cleaning your tools. Electric mixers especially can become bogged down if you haven't done a good job cleaning off the dried-up cement. There shouldn't be too much of it if you've been mixing properly, but there'll be some.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Start laying your block. Always wear the proper safety gear when handling mortar. Add a small amount of water periodically. Never make more than you'll use in 2 hours. Clean the mixer and all tools at the end of the day. It is always better to mix less and have to mix another small batch than having excess material harden on your tools or a big hard lump to pick up and dispose of.

Q: Tie the pony or horse to a post, rail, or crossties before beginning your stirrup adjustments. Never leave your horse or pony untied while moving the stirrups up or down. Alternatively, can have someone else hold the horse in place while you adjust the stirrups. Before measuring for your stirrup length, you need to be sure that the horse's saddle is on correctly. If it is not, the measurements you do will not be correct. Look both parallel to the horse and perpendicular, making sure that the saddle is square and that the stirrups are both the same length. If the saddle is not square, adjust the saddle on top of the horse before you start adjusting the stirrups. Find a starting position for the stirrup in which it is about as long as your arm. This will allow you to hold it out and do more exact measuring. Pull the stirrup iron straight out until it sits just under your armpit, and the leather runs the full length of your arm. If the end of the stirrup iron doesn't reach your armpit when your fingers reach the saddle, then the stirrup is too short. If it droops between your armpit and your fingers, then it is too long.  While measuring, stand perpendicular to the horse and the stirrups. If you have just begun riding, have shorter rather than longer stirrups so that you will have more control. Once you know the correct length, you will need to adjust the length by putting the stirrup buckle into the correct hole on the stirrup leather. Get hold of the buckle at the top of the stirrup leather and adjust the buckle until the stirrup is the correct length. Most buckles are tucked up close to the saddle but can be pulled down lower during adjustment. This will make adjustment easier. Loosen the stirrup on the other side so that it is about as long as your arm. Pull the stirrup iron straight out towards your armpit. The length of the stirrup from the connection on the saddle to the bottom of the stirrup iron should be the length of your arm from the armpit to the fingertips. Once both are adjusted, look at them both from the front of the horse. They should be the same length. The length of stirrups you want may also differ slightly depending on what type of riding you are going to do. For example, If you are jumping or roping, you need a short stirrup length to sit higher in the saddle. If you are doing dressage, cutting, or saddle seat riding, your stirrup length should be slightly longer because the rider is sitting back in the saddle and using a lot of leg to control the horse.
A:
Secure your horse or pony. Check that the saddle is on correctly. Measure the stirrup against your arm. Adjust the buckle on the stirrup leather. Repeat the process on the other side. Keep the type of riding you will be doing in mind.