To ensure long-term cleanliness and keep your nebulizer in good working order, it's important to give it regular deep cleanings to kill any bacteria or microorganisms your normal cleaning regimen failed to kill. After you finish using your nebulizer, start by washing it as you normally would. See the section above for more details. Most manufacturers recommend performing a deep cleaning once or twice per week. If you are unsure how often to deep clean your nebulizer, consult the instructions that came with it. ) Different nebulizer manufacturers will recommend using different products for deep cleaning sessions. Some nebulizers will have a cleaning solution included with them, others will recommend that you buy a commercial cleaning solution from the pharmacy, and others will recommend that you make your own — consult your nebulizer's instructions to be sure which is best for you. To make your own cleaning solution, mix one part white vinegar to three parts water. For example, you might combine 1/2 cup of white vinegar with 1 1/2 cups of water. Put the mask and any T-shaped connector piece in a clean bowl and cover them with the cleaning solution until they are completely submerged. Leave them to sit so that the solution can clean them thoroughly. The amount of time your nebulizer's manufacturer will recommend for soaking can vary from model to model. Typically, however, this is around 20 minutes to an hour. Once again, don't soak the tubing or the compressed air machine. Once the nebulizer has finished soaking, finish the cleaning process the same way as you would for a quick-clean in the method above. See below:  Remove the pieces from the solution and rinse them thoroughly with warm running water for at least 30 seconds. Shake the excess water off and set the pieces on a clean towel. Allow the pieces to air dry. When dry, you may re-connect the pieces and run the compressed air machine briefly to remove any water caught inside them. Store the tubing and mask in a clean ziplock bag. Cover the compressed air machine with a towel before storing it. Dispose of your leftover cleaning solution — don't reuse it.
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One-sentence summary -- Wash the equipment as directed above. Get a disinfectant solution (or make your own. Soak your pieces. Rinse well and air dry before storing.

Q: Stand two-three feet behind the back line.  You will want to throw the ball high and step to the line in order to gain momentum for your jump. Start with your left foot forward if you are right handed, and your right foot forward if you are left handed. You will take a three step approach. Look to the positions of the players on the opposing team and try to aim your serve in the empty spaces. You want to hit the ball into “dead zones”.   This means that when you hit the ball, you want it to land between players, so that they have to communicate about who will hit the ball back. Position your body so that you are facing one of the dead zones. Turn your hips and shoulders toward the area. You should not have to turn your head to look at it. To do a float serve, use both hands. To make the ball spin, throw it up with your dominant hand with a topspin. Toss the ball high and in front of you. You should be able to do a approach before you hit the ball, so make sure that you throw it in front of you and high enough, so that it floats just behind the serving line. A good rule is to throw the ball the way that you like the ball to be set to you.  If you like your sets low, then throw the ball lower.  If you like your sets higher, throw the ball higher.
A: Position yourself. Aim your serve. Toss the ball in the air.

Article: Streets near schools often have reduced speed limits during school hours — for instance 15 mph instead of 25 mph (25/40 kph) — that are designated by signs with flashing lights. Though this limit may seem excessively low when you do not see any children, small kids can hide easily or make sudden movements. In addition to the safety factor, remember that speeding tickets in school zones can be particularly costly. Before and especially after school, pay attention while on the surrounding streets and in nearby areas where children often hang out, such as playgrounds and parks. Kids walking home after school often have a lot of pent-up energy, and may in turn be less mindful of their surroundings. If you see either an extended sign or flashing lights, or both, know that children will be entering or exiting the bus at that time. In their haste, they may dart in front of your car unexpectedly.  By law, you cannot pass a stopped school bus whether you are behind it or facing it. Just be patient and wait for the bus to pull away. Be cautious driving near children even after the bus leaves, since you do not know their next move. Crossing guards often patrol busy intersections near schools, and in many cases are volunteers seeking to make their community a little safer. Show respect for their safety, and that of the children they’re trying to protect, by watching for them carefully and obeying their commands.  Whether there’s a crossing guard around or not, give younger children, who may walk more slowly, plenty of time to cross at pedestrian crossings. Basically, when you’re near a school:  Pay Attention; Be Patient; and Slow Down.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Obey the speed limit in school zones. Don’t lose focus just because you’re beyond the school zone. Never pass a school bus that has stopped and put out its stop sign. Obey the crossing guard.

Article: You need 2 4-foot (1.2 meter) boards from 1-by-3-inch (20 by 65 mm) or 1-by-4-inch (20 by 90 mm) of pine lumber. The finished flat will measure 8 feet (2.4) tall.  Lumber dimensions refer to the unfinished boards, so 1-by-3-inch lumber actually measures 3⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) (19 mm) by 2-1/2 inches (64 mm). And, 1-by-4-inch lumber actually measures 3⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) (19 mm) by 3-1/2 inches (89 mm). If you're using 1-by-3-inch lumber, the stiles should be cut to 91 inches (230 cm) (2.31 m); if using 1-by-4-inch lumber, cut the stiles to 89 inches (230 cm) (2.26 m). Don't attach the boards to one another. One board will become the toggle. Place this inside the frame between the two stiles so it divides the frame into equal top and bottom sections. Two boards will serve as corner braces. Cut these on the miter and place them between the top rail and left stile, and the bottom rail and left stile. Attach them to the 4 corners of the frame, where the rails meet the stiles, with carpenters glue and pneumatic staples. Use these to attach the corner braces to the rails and stiles and to attach the left side of the toggle to the left stile. Use glue and staples. Attach this to the right side of the toggle to the right stile with glue and staples. Lay the cloth over the frame and staple it into place along the insides of the rails and stiles. Paint the boards with thinned carpenter's glue and smooth the edges back do wn.  It will stiffen and shrink slightly, becoming taut.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Cut lumber for the rails, which will form the top and bottom of the flat. Measure and cut 2 boards to form the sides of the flat, called the stiles. Assemble the boards into a rectangle on the floor of your workspace. Measure and cut 3 additional boards from the same lumber. Cut 4 triangular pieces of plywood to serve as corner blocks. Measure and cut 5 straps from the plywood. Cut a trapezoidal piece of plywood to be the keystone. Turn the frame over and cover the front with muslin or canvas. Fold the edges of the cloth back so the rails and stiles are exposed. Go over the edges with a damp sponge, let the glue dry, then trim the cloth. Cover the cloth with a coat of paint to size it.