Article: There are several things you can do if you catch your cat in the act. Yelling a loud "NO" or clapping your hands every time the cat goes near the cord is one possibility. Another is to keep a water-gun handy for squirting your cat when it gets too close to places you don't want it going. Obviously, be careful not to hit electrical or electronic equipment with the water. If you can find a motion-detector toy that makes a noise as soon as it spots motion (for example, a frog that croaks), consider placing it strategically to go off every time the cat gets near certain vulnerable cords, such as under the computer desk. It will need to be loud and sudden enough to scare off your cat, and there is a chance that he'll just get used to it and ignore it. Cord chewing can be a sign of boredom, a sign of practicing prey hunting, or just a need to play. Try new items at home to keep your cat interested -- a carpet square, cardboard boxes to shred, or even a rubbery dog chew toy. Purchase or grow some cat grass grown from oats or wheat.  Many cats feel the need to chew on grass, and without grass, the next closest thing is string and wires. Cat grass is available in pet stores and on the internet, and you can buy seeds of oats and wheat and grow them yourself in a pot with a little soil. You can even dig up a little sod from a yard that is not treated with pesticides or herbicides. Look to make certain the sod only contains grass leaves, no weeds. Place the clump of sod in the pot on the floor and let the cat chew on it. Release the sod to its original place when the cat is done chewing on it. Repeat frequently, as needed. When cats chew cords, they're often looking to create small toys for themselves. Short wires skitter across linoleum and hardwood floors quite marvelously when batted by a furry paw. You might try distracting your cat with a different sort of toy. Just be sure to avoid any toys that encourage wire-chewing behavior (such as toys which are wire-like using string, yarn, etc.). There are some activities where cord movement is inevitable and it is probably best to keep your cat locked out of the room or space where you're using such appliances rather than risk chewing and the potential for electrical shock to both you and your cat, as well as the potential for a heavy item falling on your cat if the cord is pulled down too much.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Try noise or rapid action to deter your cat. Use a motion detector with noise. Find distractions. Try cat grass. Give your cat plenty of fun cat toys. Keep the cat away when moving items with cords.

Problem: Article: Gently rub the outside of the piano with a clean damp cloth, working in small sections, and then drying those small sections with a dry cloth. Use straight strokes in the direction of the wood grain, rather than circular motions. This will prevent swirl marks and streaks.  Be sure to use a non-abrasive cloth, such as cotton or microfiber. This process will remove dust from the casework and remove dirt, smudges, and fingerprints. Make sure the cloth is just slightly damp. You don't actually want the damp cloth to leave behind any visible moisture. When polishing is necessary, apply a small amount of piano polish directly to a soft, lint-free cloth. Gently rub a small section of the piano in the direction of the grain. Be particularly delicate with corners and edges, where there's only a thin layer of finish. Then, wipe away any excess polish using a clean cloth.  It's important that you use specific polish that's safe for pianos, and only polish when the piano really needs a thorough cleaning, buffing, or has some fine scratches that need to be filled. Polishing can actually damage the finish on the piano, and if it gets inside, it can damage the action components.  Don't use a high-gloss polish if your piano has a lacquer finish, because lacquer finishes aren't meant to be high-gloss. Instead, use a product with a satin finish. Only use high-gloss polishes on polymer finishes. Do not use regular household furniture polish, avoid silicone-based products, avoid products with lemon oil, and don't spray aerosol products on or near the piano, because they can damage the exterior and interior of the piano. Whether you have a grand piano or an upright, you can clean out the soundboard by blowing away accumulated dust and dirt. To do this, either use a vacuum on reverse or a can of compressed air. However, it's important that you only do this if you're experienced with cleaning piano interiors, because it's very easy to damage the strings and dampers. If you have doubts, call a professional to clean inside your piano. To clean inside yourself:  Hold the vacuum or compressed air nozzle a few inches (several centimeters) from the surface of the soundboard and use vertical strokes in the direction of the strings to blow out dust.  Make sure that you don't touch the strings or the dampers with the vacuum nozzle, the air can, or your fingers. Blow the dust and dirt to an accessible corner of the piano, and then use a vacuum on suck mode to clean up the mess. A professional has the tools, experience, and knowledge necessary to clean the action parts of your piano without damaging the delicate and sensitive components. Professional cleaners won't just clean what they can see, and they'll also remove the keys and other parts to get at dust and dirt in every nook and cranny.
Summary: Clean the finish. Polish the finish only when necessary. Blow dust from the soundboard. Call a professional cleaner as an alternative.

Humidity is crucial for orchids to grow properly. Monitor the humidity and try to keep it between 75 and 85%. Provide your orchids with humidity by placing some gravel on a tray and pouring water over the gravel. Place your orchids on the gravel and replenish the water as needed. The heat from the orchid’s environment will cause the water to disperse into the air.  You may also place a humidifier in the area where you keep the orchids to ensure adequate humidity. You can also mist the orchids to provide extra humidity when the weather is hot. Make sure that the water line is below the bottom of the orchid’s pot. The orchid should not be sitting in a pool or water because this may cause the roots to rot. Orchids need a lot of sunlight or light from bright fluorescent lights to grow. Place your orchids in a sunny, south-facing window or under a bright fluorescent lightbulb for 14 to 16 hours per day. You can protect your orchids from getting burnt by powerful midday sun by placing a sheer curtain over the window and ensuring that it is between the window and your orchids. The ideal temperatures for your orchids are between 60 to 70 °F (16 to 21 °C) during the night and no more than 95 °F (35 °C) during the day. Keep a thermometer in the area where you keep your orchids to check the temperature and ensure that they are warm enough, but also not too hot.  You may want to bring your orchids in at night during the cooler months or when temperatures are expected to drop below 60 °F (16 °C). Watch the temperatures on warm, sunny days if you keep your orchids outdoors. Bring them in out of the sun if the temperatures go above 95 °F (35 °C). As long as the soil is draining well, diseases and pests should not be an issue for indoor orchids. Check the soil once every week to ensure that it is draining well and the roots are not getting soggy. If the soil is holding onto water, then you may need to provide a different growing medium or transfer the orchid to a wood slatted basket.
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One-sentence summary --
Place the orchids on trays covered with gravel and water. Provide full sun or bright lights for 14 to 16 hours per day. Keep the temperature around 80 °F (27 °C) degrees. Check for water-logged roots to prevent rotting, diseases, and pests.