In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: A power fade is when you purposely drive the ball and the ball curves from left-to-right from the tee. The ideal time to use it is when there is trouble on the left of a hole, forcing you to turn to the right. A power fade may be easier than hitting a straight drive.  A shot may have the same movement because the clubface was accidently left wide open upon impact or when you slice the ball, accidentally cutting across its face.  You may also use the power fade when your tee shot already has a left-to-right curve but, during the curve, the ball loses momentum. You may also use the power fade for a consistent shot off the tee. Place the ball on the right of the tee box. Give yourself more room for your drive to move to the left before curving towards center. Place the tee one ball width ahead of your normal stance. Align your stance to a location between the troubled section on the left and the center of the fairway.This alignment is going to be the line your shot will follow before it moves towards center.  Your body, feet, hips and shoulders should be in the direction where you want the ball to start off, which is towards the left of the green. Your club should be aimed toward the pi, which is where you want the ball to end.  Keep your tee low. Line the equator of your ball with the sweet spot of your club. Keeping the tee height low encourages your swing to stay level through impact and discourage a pull hook. Placing the tee slightly ahead of your stance and lower than normal forces you to hold your release which keeps the face open. You do not want the club face closing over on impact. Use the last three fingers to create a strong grip on the left side. This grip ensures your swing stays open as the swing goes through passed impact.
Summary: Know what it is and when to use it. Tee the ball and position your feet. Grip the left side of your club firmly.

An Ash tree has a compound leaf structure, rather than a single leaf structure. Look for the thickened base of the stem, called a petiole, and decide whether there is a single leaf or 5 to 11 smaller leaflets that branch out from that point.  These 5 to 11 leaflets compose a single leaf. A Maple tree is an example of a single leaf tree that has one large leaf extending from the petiole. The only other tree that shares these two characteristics is a Boxelder tree. Yet, the Boxelder tree has three to five leaflets instead of five to 11. They are paddle shaped and look like small delicate leaves. They hang down in large groupings from the tree.   Don’t assume a tree without seeds is not an ash tree. Some types of ash are seedless. Seed clusters only form in late fall and early winter. Boxelder seeds are also clustered; however, they look like wings, rather than paddles.
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One-sentence summary -- Find a branch with leaves on it. Combine the opposite branching and compound leaves to decide if the tree is an Ash. Find light green or brown clusters of seeds.

Problem: Article: Most cauliflower varieties require about 1.5-3 months of consistently cool weather to mature properly. Ideally, the daytime temperature while the cauliflower is maturing will be around 60ºF (15.5ºC). This means that the proper planting time depends on your climate:  Cool climates: If your late summer temperatures are below 80ºF (27ºC), you can plant cauliflower for a fall harvest. Start the seeds 8 to 12 weeks before the first fall frost.  Warm climates: If you have frost-free winters, you can plant cauliflower seeds later in autumn, once temperatures have dropped below 80ºF (27ºC). Harvest in winter or early spring.  Temperate climates: Spring-planted cauliflower is difficult to grow in most climates. The coastal valleys of California are the only major exception, and can support year-round crops. Cauliflower is one of the most temperature-sensitive vegetables around. If the temperature requirements above seem difficult to achieve in your area, you can make the job easier with one or more of these tactics:  Look for "summer" or "tropical" varieties that can handle warmer temperatures than most. Wait about a month after the recommended seed-starting date and buy a transplant from a garden store.  Plant a new batch every week for 4–6 weeks to see which works best. Though they require cool weather, paradoxically, cauliflower also require a fair amount of full sun during the day. Choose a spot for planting in your garden that receives full sun and isn't shaded by trees, tall grass, or other crops. You'll also want to make sure that your growing site has ample room for your cauliflower crop. Generally, cauliflower plants will need to be spaced about 18-24 inches apart. For a good cauliflower crop, the plant's growth must be completely uninterrupted. This means that the plant must receive consistent moisture and have access to sufficient nutrients as it matures. A good soil makes meeting both of these requirements much easier. Ideally, your cauliflower's soil should have the following qualities:  High organic matter content. This enhances the soil's ability to hold moisture. High potassium and nitrogen content. Potassium and nitrogen are nutrients vital for the cauliflower's development. If these are not present in the soil, it may be necessary to use fertilizer. A pH of between 6.5 and 7. This "sweet" pH range minimizes the danger of a cauliflower disease called clubroot and maximizes nutrient availability. Cauliflower has a reputation for being somewhat fragile. Many people start with seedlings from a local garden store to transplant into their garden. If you have seeds instead, plant them indoors to protect the young plants from weather:  Plant each seed in its own peat or paper cup. The biodegradable container lets you "plant" the whole pot in your garden later without damaging the cauliflower's roots.  Press the seed about 1/4–1/2 inch (0.6–1.25 cm) deep and cover it with dirt. Water regularly so the soil is moist but not waterlogged. In cold weather, keep the soil at 70º F (21º C) with bottom heat from a warming plate.  If you must plant your seeds directly in the garden, plant them in rows 3 to 6 inches (7.5 to 15 cm) apart. Whether you grew the plants from seed or bought them from a garden nursery, you'll need to move them outdoors once they have three or four true leaves:  Before transplanting, move the seedlings outside for one hour a day. Gradually increase this time over the course of a week to "harden off" the seedlings, adapting them to outdoor conditions. If you used a biodegradable container, bury the container in the ground so the soil level is even with the rest of the garden. If you used a non-biodegradable container, remove the seedling carefully to avoid breaking its roots. Make a small hole in the ground and bury the seedling up to its stem. You may want to make a shallow, saucer-like depression around the seedling to help the surrounding soil retain water. Firm the soil and water the seedling.
Summary:
Plan to grow cauliflower in cool weather. Adjust to a difficult climate. Choose a growing site with at least six hours of full sun. Start with rich, moisture-retaining soil. Start with transplants or grow seeds indoors. Transplant the seedling.