In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Goldfish require particularly roomy living arrangements in order to stay healthy. While they are pretty small fish, they need larger tanks than you might expect.  You can do better than a bowl.  Despite the beauty of a goldfish suspended in a sphere of glass, most fishbowls simply don’t provide enough room for their occupants. A single fancy goldfish can be kept in a 10 gallon (37.9 L) tank, but bigger goldfish like comets need a tank of around 50 gallons (189.3 L). If you are able to keep one goldfish from overthrowing your empire, and wish to allow them a friend with which to endure their captivity, you’re going to need to increase the capacity of your fish tank (by roughly 10 gallon (37.9 L)) for each additional fish. A 20 gallon (75.7 L) is ideal for your first goldfish, and can ultimately hold 2-3 fancy goldfish. An ideal size would be 15 gallons (57 L), but this depends on the amount of fish. Most goldfish favor a palace or castle ambiance.  Shoot for somewhere in between.  Gravel is a must, and plants are recommended.  That said, your selection of décor, gravel, and plants must follow certain guidelines:  Choose a goldfish appropriate gravel.  Don’t actually use pieces of gold, as these will likely be dangerously small.  Goldfish are scavengers.  They will pick up pieces of gravel and mess around with them just for fun. Use gravel that is made up of pieces that are too large for the fish to swallow. Definitely hook your goldfish up with ample rocks, caves, or plants.  Goldfish like to adventure, and can easily be fooled into thinking they’re not in a fish tank. Don’t use wood.  It looks spectacular, but will color your water and, depending on the type of wood, will dissolve. Be aware that some rocks and sea shells will affect the pH of the water.  If you’re adding stuff you find on the beach willy-nilly, you’re going to need to be checking your pH frequently. Only put certain plants in your goldfish tank. Goldfish, interestingly, are pretty aggressive with plants.  Some plants are better able to defend themselves: Try Vallisneria types, different Hygrophilas, Red Bacopa or even Ludwigia Arcuata. A filter is an absolutely necessary component of your fish tank. Filters operate according to flow rate, with certain filters designed for certain sized tanks, so make sure you get the right filter for a tank your size. There are two types to choose from.  External filters rest on the exterior of your tank, while internal filters are submerged within the tank.  Either type of filter can work for a goldfish tank. External filters are generally considered to be superior, as they have a greater capacity to store filtration materials and can accordingly clean water more thoroughly.  . If you have a 20 gallon (75.7 L) tank, shoot for a filter rated for 40 gallons (151.4 L). You can use tap water to fill your tank, but you need to add conditioner to make it safe for your goldfish.  At minimum, you need a conditioner that neutralizes chlorine and chloramine.  Aside from removing any harmful chemicals in tap water with conditioner, you’ll also need to make sure the water has the right pH level for gold fish, which is a slightly alkaline 7-7.5, ideally 7.2 pH.  Use a pH test kit to periodically test your water, and adjust the pH if necessary. Take tank placement seriously.  Do not place the tank near a window or any heating or cooling source.  Do not allow sunlight to hit the tank directly.  Also be sure the tank is set on something flat and extremely sturdy.  You likely don’t need a heater.  The fish tank’s water temperature should be between 60 °F (16 °C) and 72 °F (22 °C), so the ambient temperature of your living space should work.
Summary: Consider the size of your fish tank. Decorate your fish tank. Use a filtration system. Add conditioned water.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: To construct this hygrometer, you will need two thermometers, some cotton gauze, a rubber band, a small container, some water, and a piece of cardboard large enough to hang the two thermometers. Moisten the gauze with some water and wrap it around the bulb (bottom tip) of the thermometer. Secure the gauze in place with the rubber band. In order for this hygrometer to work long term, the gauze must stay moist during readings. Fill the small container with water and make sure part of the gauze is in contact with the water. The gauze will stay wet as long as it is touching the water in the container. Align the thermometers so that they are sitting next to each other with their tops and bottoms in the same place. Secure them in place using tape or hot glue. Use caution when working with hot glue. This hygrometer allows you to determine a relative humidity level of the air. Look at each thermometer at eye level and record the degree at which the red liquid sits. Write down these temperatures. Make multiple recordings throughout the day and take note of the weather as well. Is it sunny? Is it raining? Obtain a wet/dry humidity table like the one found here. The left side of the table (y-axis) is the temperature reading of the dry thermometer. The horizontal (x-axis) of the table is the difference between the dry thermometer and the wet thermometer.  Subtract the dry thermometer temperature from the wet thermometer (wet – dry = difference). Find the temperature of the dry bulb on the vertical axis and then find the corresponding difference on the horizontal axis. Where those two meet on the graph tells you the relative humidity. Be sure that your table matches the scale you are using. If you’re using Fahrenheit, use a Fahrenheit table. If you’re measuring in Celsius, use a Celsius table.
Summary: Gather the necessary materials. Cover one thermometer with wet gauze. Attach the two thermometers to the cardboard. Record the temperatures on each thermometer. Determine relative humidity using a wet/dry humidity table.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: To make sure no carpet beetles can return, check your screens and doors for holes and keep them closed as much as you can. Look outside and throw away old spider webs and nests from birds, rodents, or bees, which carpet beetles can hide in.  You should also examine any flowers or plants that you bring inside for signs of carpet beetles or larvae. If you see any, leave the plant outside. For a particularly stubborn or recurring infestation, you can spray liquid insecticide around the lower outside portion of your home and near entry points. Insecticide can affect other, non-harmful bugs, though, so only apply it outside as a last resort. Vacuuming carpeting and washing your clothes and other fabrics frequently, at least once every 2 or so weeks, is the best way to prevent a carpet beetle infestation. Treat spills and stains immediately as well; food and sweat stains on fabrics can attract carpet beetles. Make sure to keep hair, lint and dust bunnies to a minimum, as carpet beetles like to feed on these. Store off-season clothes, fabrics, and starches in sealed plastic bags or containers. Air them out in the sun and brush them at least once a year to check for an infestation.  For extra protection, layer your stored fabrics with resin strips filled with insecticide. You can also use moth balls, flakes, or crystals. If you do find an infestation, wash or dry clean the items before storing them again. Carpet beetles will only eat organic products, so choosing synthetic materials will lessen your chances of getting an infestation. This is especially helpful for carpets, rugs, and furniture.  Synthetic materials typically used for rugs and carpeting include nylon, polyester, triexta, and olefin. For furniture, synthetic options include acrylic, acetate, nylon, and polyester.
Summary:
Look for and remove any outdoor sources or nests. Clean carpet beetle-prone areas frequently. Seal unused fabric and clothes in plastic containers. Choose synthetic materials over organic ones.