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Slide the countertops back against the wall. Scribe the backsplash. Sand the countertop down to the scribe line. Repeat sanding until the countertop is flat against the wall. Caulk the miter joints to secure the countertops together. Screw the countertops to the cabinets. Place caulk along the backsplash. Seal the sink and range in place with caulk. Cut the laminate side strips to fit the countertop’s edges. Use contact cement to glue the side strips in place. File down the laminate strips.
Make sure the countertops are securely bolted together first. Push them all the way back and gauge how much of a gap remains between the countertop and wall. Most likely, you’ll notice a gap that needs to be fixed. Lay masking tape over the top of the backsplash. Get a scribing tool, and find the largest gap between the countertop and wall. Lay the tool flat against the wall and adjust the pencil end so the tip is on the edge of the tape. Keep the scribing tool at this length and draw the line all the way across the tape. The countertop should be as level and close to the wall as possible. You may need to add shims under the counter or scribe and sand the cabinet’s sides to do this. Undo the bolts underneath the counter. Pull the pieces out and get an 80-grip belt sander. Wear down the back part of the counter to the line you traced. Hold the sander flat at all times. Reattach the bolts to hold the countertops in place. Push them against the wall and measure them again with the scribing tool. You may need to sand 1 or more times to eliminate unsightly gaps larger than 3⁄16 inch (4.8 mm). You’ll need to undo the miter bolts one last time. Slide the countertops apart. Apply a bead of silicone caulk along the miter joints on the countertop edges. Then push the countertops together and secure the bolt in place one last time. When using aluminum strips instead of miter joints, you won’t need to do this, so enjoy skipping the extra work. The easiest way to do this is to drill up through the build-up strips. Apply the screws so they enter but don't exit the countertop. For extra support, place small angle brackets along the build-up strips. Screw the brackets into the countertop and the cabinets to hold them in place.   1 1⁄4 in (32 mm) drywall screws are commonly used for this. Double-check the thickness of your countertop and build-up strips and get longer or shorter screws as needed. To prevent any damage to the countertops, measure the countertop depth first. You can then measure that far down from the tip of your drill bit and place a piece of tape there to show you when to stop. Finish sealing the countertop by securing the backsplash to the wall. Squeeze a bead of caulk into the gap and move the caulk gun all the way across the backsplash in one motion. Moisten a rag and use it to smooth out the caulk. Silicone latex caulk is the best choice since it’s both water-resistant and paintable. Flip these objects over and find your tube of silicone caulk. Spread a bead of the caulk all around the edge of the sink or range. When finished, carefully pick up the object and lay it into the hole you cut earlier. Wipe away any excess caulk with a rag. These strips should be included with the countertop. If they haven’t been pre-cut, measure the length of the free edges of the countertops. Snip the strip to size with a pair of scissors. Brush a layer of contact cement over the backs of the side strips. Wait about 20 minutes for the glue to feel dry to the touch. Press the strips to the countertop’s edges to hold them in place. It helps to place a towel over the countertop to avoid getting the glue on it. Before you begin, place a towel over the countertop to avoid damaging it. Hold a metal file flat against the towel and carefully wear down the excess on the strips. Take your time getting the strips to blend in so you avoid scratching your new countertop.