INPUT ARTICLE: Article: If you are moving your shed farther than across your property, you’ll have to place it securely in a vehicle trailer.  If possible to do so safely, jack the shed up high enough that you can simply slide it onto the trailer.  Otherwise, you will have to use the trailer’s ramp (or fashion your own) and employ a careful combination of pulling, pushing, and lifting to get the shed into place.  Make sure the shed is centered on the trailer and secured properly with strong, snug strapping. Cover any roof shingles with a secure tarp; high speeds can cause them to shear off.  You may also want to cover any window openings with plywood, whether the windows have been removed or not. If you have a large yard and fairly level ground, you may want to drag the shed on a makeshift wooden sled, using the power of a pickup truck (or possibly a tractor for smaller sheds).  If so, make sure you secure your pulling rope or chain around the shed, not to the sled, or the latter will simply be pulled out from underneath as the truck moves.  Fashion the sled out of plywood sheets or a similarly thin, fairly smooth material.  Make sure that it is larger than the base of the shed.  The weight of the shed should pin the sled underneath while moving; otherwise, secure it to the shed structure with screws. Wrap the tow line around the entire shed, about midway up the side walls.  Latch, hook, or tie it on the side facing the back of the truck so that it is securely snug in place, then run the line and secure it to the vehicle’s tow hitch. Drive slowly and steadily, avoiding lurches forward or quick stops.  Have a couple of helpers keep an eye on the shed and help guide it as needed. If you have access to a forklift or a “mule” (a machine similar in appearance to a typical forklift), you can use one of these to relocate a secured and propped-up shed with relative ease.  And, if you happen to be remodeling your home and there is a crane being used to lift roof trusses, etc., you can use it to quickly move the shed from your front yard to your back, for instance.  Make sure you have been properly instructed in the safe use of such equipment before trying to move your shed with it. Make sure the shed is properly secured to the machine with heavy-duty strapping.

SUMMARY: Place the shed on a trailer. Drag the shed on a sled. Use a forklift or a crane.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Fill the bucket with just enough water to cover the head on your golf clubs. Add a few pumps of dish soap, then stir it in. Make sure that the water is warm, not hot; otherwise, you risk ruining the ferrule. Irons are a type of clubhead. If you have a “metal wood head” or a “wood head,” use a different method. If the clubs only have a moderate amount of dirt or mud on them, 5 minutes in sudsy water should be enough. For particularly dirty clubs or vexing stains, 10 or more minutes might be necessary. The ferrules (which are small ring-like pieces that secure the shaft to the club-head) should be just above the water. If they are touching the water, pour some of the water out. Any brush with soft, plastic bristles will work fine. Toothbrushes and vegetable brushes are popular choices. Start cleaning the face first, then the back, then the top and bottom.  Never use a wire-bristle brush, even if the surface is filthy, as this can damage the face of the club and affect its performance. If there is any rust on the clubhead, you can remove it with fine-grade steel wool. Look for #000 or #0000. If there is still dirt on them, you may need to scrub them once more. Remember to try to avoid getting the ferrules wet, although a little moisture won't be the end of the world. Make sure the entire club is clean and dry upon inspection. If there is any moisture left, you could end up with rust. For a nice touch, polish the clubhead with a steel or chrome polish. Follow the instructions that came with the polish.

SUMMARY: Mix warm water and mild dish soap in a bucket. Submerge the club-heads in the water for several minutes. Scrub the grooves with a soft-bristle brush. Rinse the head with clean water. Dry the head with a soft, dry towel.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: This is often the last step in a telephone survey. While it is often optional, it’s typically very useful because it allows the data to be coded more accurately. Demographic data includes gender, age, political affiliation, religious affiliation, gender identity and ethnicity. It’s very important to thank your participant for their time and effort. Aside from common courtesy, thanking your participant is key to the overall success of the survey. Many phone surveys are recorded for quality purposes, so it’s important to follow all the steps and conclude the survey properly. You might ask your respondent something like, "Do you have any suggestions for how I might improve this survey?" This lets the respondent know that you value their opinion. Be sure to let them know you're grateful for their feedback. After you’ve ended the call, take stock of how the survey went and what you could do to improve. Check the time to see if you stuck to your schedule and communicated the questions efficiently. Conduct a mini survey of yourself by asking questions about your performance and responding as honestly as possible. This will help you improve as an interviewer while you practice for your next survey.

SUMMARY: Obtain demographic data from each respondent. Thank your respondent. Analyze your performance.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: If you are making your boxes 16 inches (41 cm) wide, measure 16 inches (41 cm) from one side, mark it, and repeat this for each divider. This will ensure that you’re placing the dividers evenly so that all the boxes end up the same size. You should measure and mark along both lengthwise edges of the bottom piece to be sure your measurements are straight. Follow the markings you made on the bottom piece and glue your dividers in place, using a heavy object to prop them up on each side while they dry. Glue your side pieces in place on each short edge of the bottom piece and prop them up as well. When you’re propping up the piece to dry, use a level to make sure they’re positioned straight up and down. Otherwise, you’ll have trouble attaching the top piece. Once the glue on the sides and dividers is dry, take the support pieces you cut and screw or nail them down on either side of each divider. Do the same next to each side piece. It should fit on the boxes so that it’s flush with the top edges of each side and divider. Attach it with 2-3 screws or nails in each place where it meets a side or divider.  Make sure your nails or screws are long enough to go through the top piece and at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) into the sides or dividers underneath it. For extra stability, flip the boxes over and put 2-3 screws or nails in the bottom piece in each place where it meets a side or divider. The back side of the boxes, where you will attach the back piece, should be facing up so that you can rest the back piece on top while you attach it. Use at least 6-8 nails or screws for each box to ensure that it’s well secured. Since the bottom piece will stick out farther in the front, you may need to set the boxes on top of cinder-blocks so that it can lie flat. You can also have 2 people hold the back piece in place while you attach it instead of turning it over. These are the two long, thin boards that you will attach to the top front and bottom front of the boxes to secure them and keep bedding from falling out. Flip the boxes over so that the front faces up and the back piece is resting on the ground. Place the front lip along the bottom edge and attach it, using one screw or nail for every side and divider. Do the same with the trim along the top edge. Set it so that it runs along the front edge of the bottom piece where it sticks out further than the boxes. Attach it using 1 screw or nail for every box.

SUMMARY:
Measure and mark where your dividers will go on the bottom piece. Glue your sides and dividers to the bottom piece using wood glue. Attach supports to the bottom piece next to each side and divider. Add the top piece to your boxes. Turn the boxes over and attach the back piece. Attach the front lip and trim. Add the perch board to the bottom piece.