Q: Though you don't need much to create a the basket, it will come together very quickly if you find all the parts before you start. You will need:  A wire hanger. It cannot be a partially metal hanger made substantially of wood or plastic. A large, flat piece of cardboard. The tape of your choosing. Marking tape may be the easiest to work with; duct tape would certainly make the hoop durable. Markers or paint. Scissors. String (optional). You do not even have to dismantle the hanger, but just reshape it into a hoop. Do not cut away the hook, as it still can be of some use. Standard high school, college, and NBA backboards are rectangular, if you are looking to replicate that appearance. Try to make sure the relative scare of the hoop and backboard seem reasonable. For comparative purposes, an NBA backboard is 6 feet wide, while the basket opening is 18 inches (1.5 feet). That means the basket width is 1/4 (or 25%) as wide. Traditional hoops are painted red, but you can certainly customize it to fit whatever you desire. The backboard of most high schools, colleges, and all NBA franchises are now made of transparent glass; as there is no transparent cardboard, you can really be as creative as you want. You can attach the hook (which you bent up earlier) to lower back side of the backboard. Make sure the rim is as close to the backboard as possible. You can make make a net out of string, or even out of twisted tape. Masking tape will work well for this purpose, as it will not leave a sticky mess behind like duct tape would. There are two different taping methods you can employ.  You can tape along the front perimeter of the backboard and extend the tape onto the wall to secure it. Alternatively, you can make tape hoops (by attaching a single piece of tape to itself, end-to-end with the sticky side out) and use these to attach the backboard to the selected surface.
A: Obtain the necessary materials. Bend the wire hanger into a circle. Bend the hook of the hanger so that it is at a 90 degree angle with the hoop. Cut the cardboard to the size and shape of your liking. Decorate the hoop and backboard to your liking. Tape the hoop to the backboard. Attach a net to the basketball rim (optional). Hang the completed basket to a wall or door.

Q: You'll notice that you have "extra" grip on the edges of the deck. Grab a screwdriver, a metal file, or another blunt object, and scrape it around the sides of the board until the griptape develops a white edge. This is a way of sealing the edges of your griptape. If you do this correctly, you'll have a white outline of your deck on your grip—this outline marks out the area where you should cut away the excess grip tape on the side of your skateboard. Make sure to use long strokes instead of short, aggressive ones—otherwise, you might tear up the sides. Also be careful not to file off the polish on the edge of your board. Most boards have curved edges from sanding, so you want to trim the tape past the curve along the edge. Make long and steady cut motions for the best result. Remember to hold the blade in a slight angle towards the edge of the skateboard so you don't get a small line of grip sticking out. Use the outline of your grip for reference: you need to cut along the sides of the deck, and around the nose and tail of the board.  Make sure to keep all fingers out of the way at all times, as the razor blade can easily slip from the material. Use two hands to make it easier. You do not want it to accidentally dig into the deck of your board! Once the board is completely taped, inspect it for small air bubbles. Use a knife or a razor blade to make small incisions into the grip tape; this should release any bulging air bubbles. Smooth over the incision so that the grip tape sticks smoothly to the deck. If you don't yet have trucks on your board, use a screwdriver to poke eight holes in the griptape where the screws for the trucks will go. If you already have trucks on your board, you can wait to poke these holes until you replace the trucks, or you can poke the holes as follows:  Take a second deck of the same size with no trucks on and use it as a "guide" for where to poke the holes. Mark the spots with a pencil or poke a small hole. You can now use a razor blade to cut a hole around the screw, big enough to unscrew the trucks. Unscrew each one and put them back so it looks "cleaner". If you don't have a second board, try to guess where the holes go. Try "following" the screws and poking using a needle. If you poke the center of the deck, the needle won't go far; if you poke the screw, if will go further and you will know where the hole must go. Your first attempt might look a little butchered, so go around and trim up the ridges. Run the Stanley knife, box cutter, or razor blade around the outer edge of your skateboard to remove any extra scraps. Most of the imperfections will not be too noticeable as the deck wears over time. Take a small piece of extra grip or sandpaper and lightly rub the edges where the grip sticks to the board. This may prevent the grip from peeling off the board later. While you have the knife out, you can cut a little triangle (or another shape) between the screw-holes on one end of the board. Some skaters do this to more easily identify the nose or tail of their board. Cut out a circle or a hexagon to give your board some special looks and give it interesting riding characteristics. If you want you can use paint markers or colored sharpies to draw designs or patterns on the grip tape. Be creative!
A:
Scrape the sides. Use a knife or a box cutter to trim off any excess tape. Flatten out air bubbles. Poke holes to screw the trucks on. Neaten up the edges. Add any last-minute stylistic touches.