The most highly-recommended homes for gerbils are large fish tanks. A fish tank allows you put in plenty of bedding for them to bulldoze and burrow into without worry that they'll kick it out like they would with a wire cage. Wire cages can work in a pinch, but are not recommended for the long term.  A gerbil will chew the wires of a wire cage and this can hurt their noses and muzzles. The most important part of your gerbil's environment is room to dig, a minimum of 6 inches (15.2 cm) of substrate. So never go solely with a wire cage, as this can limit the gerbil's ability to dig and tunnel. Plastic "hamster homes", or any cages with plastic trays or components, are highly discouraged. A gerbil will easily chew through the plastic and escape. Modular systems, such as Rotastak and Habitrail, are also not recommended for any rodent. As well as causing serious health and enrichment issues, in the case of gerbils you run the risk that one of your gerbils will 'claim' a section of the tubes and this can lead to major fighting and even death. Adding a topper to your large glass tank means your gerbil will be secure in its home but the tank will still get the ventilation that it needs. If you are buying a wire topper that is not made specifically for the tank you have, just make sure that it will fit the tank securely.  Make sure the top is tight, as gerbils can jump! If you only have a topper that is a bit loose, you can make sure your cage topper is secure by placing heavy objects on the edge of the topper. Remember gerbils must be kept in pairs but you cannot introduce an adult to an adult without a split cage. A divided cage allows the gerbils to slowly acclimate to each other, otherwise they may fight and once can kill the other. Instead of dealing with a slow introduction, consider getting several gerbils at the same time that were raised as pups and litter mates.

Summary: Consider getting a large fish tank. Avoid plastic cages. Consider a wire topper to allow for ventilation. Buy or build a divider if you are planning on introducing two gerbils that were not raised together.


Ideally, you may have a camp with a winch and a frame, or a tractor with a lift or bucket to lift the deer up. You will also want plenty of clean water available, preferably from a potable water system with a garden hose and sprayer. Some hunters prefer to hang their deer by the achilles tendons with the head down, but generally, the steps are the same.  Hanging head up makes removing the stomach, intestines, and bladder a bit easier, and is less likely to contaminate the meat when this is done.

Summary: Hang the deer for skinning. Tie a strong rope or strap around the animal's antlers, or under the head as high up the neck as possible.


Let's say you're working with the equation, 4y +3x = 16; write it down. Just move the x{\displaystyle x} term over to the other side so that the y term is by itself. Remember that whenever you move a term (by adding or subtracting) to the other side of an equation, you have to flip its sign from negative to positive and vice versa. So, "3x" moved to the other side of the equation would become "-3x." The equation should now look like 4y = -3x +16 by doing this:  4y + 3x = 16 = 4y + 3x - 3x = -3x +16 (by subtraction)  4y = -3x +16 (by rewriting, simplifying the subtraction) The y coefficient is the number in front of the y term. If there is no coefficient in front of the y term, then you're done. If there is a coefficient, however, then you should divide each term in the equation by that number. In this case, the y coefficient is 4, so you have to divide 4x, -3x, and 16 by 4 to get the final answer in slope intercept form. Here's how you do it:  4y = -3x +16 =  4/4y = -3/4x +16/4 = (by division)  y = -3/4x + 4 (by rewriting, simplifying the division) If you're using the equation to plot a line, then you should know that "y" represents the y-coordinate, "-3/4" represents the slope, "x" represents the x coordinate, and "4" represents the y-intercept.

Summary: Write down the equation. Isolate the y-term on one side of the equation. Divide all of the terms by the y coefficient. Identify the terms in the equation.


You want one that is affiliated with a national boxing organization and that also has a reputation for training fighters. If you are serious about this, do not go to a health club that happens to have boxing classes. You need a gym that's dedicated to boxing (and potentially other martial arts). Odds are if you do a bit of asking around, you'll find the place that has the reputation as the best of the best in your area. There will likely be no doubt about it which club you'd like to join. He will explain their hours of operation, fees and methods of training. You can also find out his experience as a boxing coach and whether he was a fighter himself at one point. Meet the staff and get a feel for the place. If it fills you with a sense of excitement and anticipation, it's probably right for you.  Do ask questions. Find out what they would recommend for you and what kind of training you should start. What's their schedule like? Who would you work with? How can you meet everyone? Make sure you know what you're getting into before you sign up. You want a club that has a wide range of clients at different levels. As you begin to develop your skills, you will want to start sparring with other people. A club with fighters at all different levels mean that there will always be someone for you to work with and that you can go grow with the club.  Think of it like walking into a restaurant: if there's no one there, you wouldn't eat there. And if there's only people in blue hats and you're not wearing a blue hat, you might not eat there. If there's only people who seem to be miserable, you probably wouldn't eat there. So take a look – do the clients seem A) fit and competent and B) happy with their training? If you can, find someone who doesn't work there about the establishment. Sometimes you need an unbiased party to get an honest opinion. Before you start working with a coach, it's probably a good idea to know at least the 101 of boxing and some of the terminology. You don't have to be good at it, you should just know a little of what your club peers are talking about. Here's a few starters:    Jab. This is the busiest punch in boxing. It's a simple punch thrown to your opponent's chin with your leading hand (the hand of the forward foot).  Cross. This punch is thrown with your dominant hand. It is a power punch. It involves a slight rotation of your torso, simulating a horizontal moment across your plane.  Uppercut. This punch ends up in your opponent's chin or solar plexus. It's thrown at close range and can be quite the cincher.  Hook. This is a short sideways punch delivered with your elbow out and to the side so your arm forms a hook.  Southpaw. This is a left-handed fighter (either naturally or converted). To a "normal" fighter, they do everything in reverse. Because of their stance differences, they practically fight on top of each other.  Outside and inside fighters. An outside fighter likes to keep his distance, stepping in for the jab. An inside fighter stays close, preferring moves like the uppercut.
Summary: Choose a boxing club to join. Talk to a trainer. Check their membership. Familiarize yourself with the basics.