Q: The formation your coach prefers can also influence your position. Formation refers to your team's lineup and is represented by a series of numbers starting from the defenders. So, the phrase "4-4-2" means your team has 4 defenders, 4 midfielders, and 2 forwards. A 3-5-2 would have 3 defenders, 5 midfielders, and 2 forwards. Your team's formation is easiest to see right at kick-off. Where everyone starts will dictate their roles and responsibilities. Great defenders may not get the glory, but they win games. A good defender reads the game and the offense to cut out threats before they get near goal. They are confident and physical, muscling off attackers to win the ball either in the air or on the ground. If you love frustrating the other team, leaving them empty-handed, be a defender. Natural defenders may be:  Tall and strong, holding their own against big forwards. Smart and confident, knowing when to step and make a tackle and when to wait. Good at crosses and clearances from both feet. Effective communicators with teammates and other defenders. Tireless, hunting down attackers throughout the entire game. Midfielders are the all-around players who must do a bit of everything—tackle, pass, shoot, hold the ball, etc. Their most important job is to keep the team together, organizing the attack and distributing the ball from the backs up to the forwards. In general, midfielders:  Run up and down the field for long periods. Pass accurately at both long and short distances. Remain composed and calm with the ball. Play effectively with both left and right feet as dribblers, shooters, and passers. Understand both defense and offensive strategies and tactics. Forwards, sometimes known as strikers, have one job: score. To do so, they tend to be big and/or fast players. They must be excellent in the air and have a high top speed to beat defenders to the ball. Good strikers are great shooters, both from the ground and out of the air, and they have an aggressive mentality that aims to score at any opportunity. Strikers prioritize:  One-on-one moves and tricks to beat defenders. Bursts of speed and power to win the ball and shoot. Quick, accurate shots from anywhere near the box. Strong aerial play to win crosses and clearances. Good goalkeepers are like cats, pouncing on the ball the second after it leaves an attacker's foot. Goalies need to be able to read the entire field and communicate well with their teammates. They must also be smart, confident players, knowing when to come out and snag a cross and when to stay in goal and wait for a shot. If you're good with your hands and quick off your feet, consider being a keeper. Remember that being a keeper isn't just about your hands—it is about rapid, split-second jumps and leaps to block shots. While the advice above is a good start, you won't know your best position until you've played all of them. Furthermore, the best players in the world can play a little bit of everything and understand the entire field, not just one spot. While body type and style are key, the most important part of choosing a position is feeling comfortable and effective.  Until you are 11-12, there is no need to pick one position, just play everywhere.  In practice or pick-up games with friends, try to move around a lot. What feels comfortable? What do you enjoy playing? Lionel Messi, based on body type, should not be a striker—he is much too small. But his incredible quickness, foot-skills, and intelligence helped him become one of the world's best scorers.
A: Understand that your position will depend on your coach's style of play. Jump in as a defender if you're strong, smart, and composed. Play in the midfield if you're a good passer who can run for days. Become a forward if you're big, fast, and love to score. Try out goalie if you have excellent reflexes and hand-eye coordination. Learn to play many areas of the field to find your perfect position.

Q: Start at the spot your tested earlier and position the tip of the chisel against the wall at a downward angle. Hit the back end with your hammer to drive the blade into the plaster and separate it from the brick. Continue chiseling one patch at a time, working your way inward from the edges.  Alternatively, you can take care of the demolition phase with only a crowbar if you don’t have a suitable masonry chisel. Use the rounded end for smashing and the pointed end for prying. There’s no need to be delicate here, but don’t get carried away, either. The idea is to use enough force to loosen the plaster without damaging the underlying brick. If you’re lucky, you’ll send large chunks of plaster raining down with each strike of your chisel. If not, you’ll need to give it a little encouragement. Wedge the tip of your crowbar or putty knife beneath the outer edge of stubborn sections and pull back forcefully to coax them free of the wall.  You’re more likely to remove the plaster in broad sheets using slow, controlled strokes than you are using quick, choppy ones. Keep a few large plastic tubs or buckets on standby to catch the plaster as it comes off of the wall. Once you’ve successfully removed plaster, give the entire surface a thorough scouring, applying moderate pressure with your brush. This will loosen any remaining debris that's too small to get at with your crowbar or putty knife. Work from top to bottom to avoid spreading more dust to sections you just brushed. If you notice your wire brush leaving scratches in the brick, one solution is to buff them out using a power drill fitted with a wire brush bit. Unlike the handheld brush, the rotary bit spins a circular direction, erasing conspicuous lines and scratches.
A:
Use a hammer and masonry chisel to break up the bulk of the plaster. Pry off clinging sections using a crowbar or putty knife. Go over the freshly-exposed wall with a wire brush.