The sheep should have run out by now,so you can start to explore the other places including the enemy and your allies. You should now have at least 4 people on wood by now. Blacksmiths cost 150 wood each, and markets cost 175 wood each. The thing is that markets are slower to build, and blacksmiths has a lot of upgrades for the military later on that you can use. They are good upgrades for the economy. Build a farm after you build the market. Farms cost 60 wood and cost 60 wood to reseed. It is better once you hunt deer somewhere farther away from the town center. Each deer stocks up to 140 food, and there should be at least 4 of 'em there. You don't need stone in the Feudal Age, so get gold. Have 2 villagers go on gold. You need 100 more gold to advance to the Castle Age. The Feudal Age should only take about 7 or 8 minutes. You need 800 food, 200 gold, and a blacksmith and a market to advance to the Castle Age. If you have extra wood, build a barracks farther to the enemy. On top of a cliff is best because infantry can't get up there by climbing.  Then you can advance to the Castle Age. Keep exploring with your scout. By now, you should have at least 50% of the map explored (unless you are playing with a normal, large, or giant map).

Summary: Create more villagers and add 2 to wood and 1 or 2 to forage bushes. Build a blacksmith and/or market. Research Horse Collar (in the mill) and Double-Bit Axe (in the lumber camp). Create 2 more villagers. Build a mining camp near gold, not stone. By now, you should haveAt least 15 villagersA scoutAt least 650 foodMillLumber campMining campAt least 100 woodAt least 200 gold200 stoneBlacksmithMarketLoom, Horse Collar, and Double-bit Axe researched  Wait until you have 800 food.


Pugs require attention, but should also have a space of their own in which they feel comfortable when you are not home or are otherwise occupied. Provide your pug with an area of its own including a bed and blankets, some toys, and easy access to food and fresh water.  Consider putting the space in the corner of a well-used area in your home. This way, even if you cannot pay attention to your pug for a moment, they do not feel alone. Remember that pugs are sensitive to very hot temperatures and rapid temperature changes. Avoid setting up their space in areas with continued direct sunlight or near heating and cooling vents. Pugs are prone to nervousness and anxiety. You can help them calm down by being consistent in your daily routine. This means scheduling feeding times, walks, play times, and quiet times as close to the same time every day as possible. Your personal schedule may change, but it is important to you try to keep your pug’s schedule the same. Ask a friend or neighbor to help you out with feeding and walks on nights you know you’ll be home late. The pug’s distinct physiology makes them susceptible to a number of health problems, including breathing and joint issues. Because of this, it is important to schedule a vet check as soon as you bring your new pug home.  Your vet will be able to check for common pug health complications and make suggestions for care, such as what to feed your new dog. If you want your pug to be comfortable, you’ll need to learn how it communicates and how to properly respond to it. If you don’t have a lot of experience with dogs, educate yourself on how they communicate so that you can interpret your pug's body language and respond appropriately.  This is especially important if you have children in the house. Teach your children how to recognize when your dog is anxious or fearful, so that they know when to back off. For example, if a guest is petting your pug and its tail is between its legs, it is likely scared and/or uncomfortable. To make your pug comfortable, politely ask your guest to take a couple of steps back, crouch down to the dog’s level, and hold out their hand so that the dog can come to them.

Summary: Create a space especially for your pug in your home. Be consistent in your daily schedule. Get a new pug assessed by a veterinarian. Communicate with your pug effectively.


Use your shears or a hedge trimmer to cut unruly branches back from the base. This will prevent overgrown branches from sticking out too far and promote new side growth. If your shrub has multiple overgrown branches around the center, cut several back to the base with your trimmer. As you clear limbs, try to retain the plant's natural shape and keep the base the widest part.  Thinning out the center will help light reach the bottom branches. Avoid cutting center branches that aren't overgrown, as trimming too many main branches can harm shrubs. Inspect your shrub for sick-looking or broken branches, which must be removed to retain the plant's health. Cut away any rotten parts of the branch until you reach healthy wood. If part of a branch is healthy, you do not need to remove it in its entirety. Just remove as much of the dead or unhealthy section as possible.  Research common pests or diseases your shrub might suffer from and keep an eye out for early signs of damage. Cutting more than 1/3 of the plant makes it weaker and vulnerable to pests or diseases. If you feel like you might be over trimming the plant, smooth your work out as best as you can and finish trimming the shrub.
Summary: Cut away the thickest overgrown branches first. Clear out some limbs near the center. Remove diseased or damaged branches or branch segments. Do not remove more than 1/3 of the shrub.