In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: After you know where you want to build the basin, begin constructing it with boulders, cinder blocks, or alternative material. Make the basin tall enough to hold the amount of water circulating through your stream. Then, spread a waterproof expanding foam around each rock to glue the basin together. Remember to build one side of the basin higher than the other. Use some flat rocks or smaller boulders to create a natural-looking waterfall. Leave space for the hose you need to install to start the waterfall. out the pond or lower basin for an in-ground pond. The water needs a place to collect while your submersible pump circulates it back to the top of the waterfall. The basin has to be at least 1 ft (0.30 m) larger than your stream or waterfall to prevent the water from splashing out of it. It also needs to be bigger than your submersible pump. Make sure you have enough space in your pond or basin to fit the pump and hide it with rocks.  If you’re building an above-ground waterfall, skip this part. You won’t be able to dig out the basin, so compensate for it by building an above-ground basin out of rocks or cinder blocks. Call the local utility companies to come out and mark the utility lines before you begin digging. Striking a line by accident is a sure way to spoil your project. For pondless basins, usually with stream waterfalls, you make a deeper hole to plant the pump in. Measure the pump enclosure first to figure out how big the hole needs to be. Then, dig a square hole at least 2 ft (0.61 m) wider and 6 in (15 cm) deeper than the pump. Keep the hole near the far end of the basin, opposite of the waterfall. Doing this makes it much easier to hide underneath dirt and rocks. Excavating is the most intensive part of building a waterfall, but you’re almost done. To create the upper part of your waterfall, dig out the upper basin if your design has one. Then, connect the upper basin and lower basin with a series of dirt “steps.” The water falls from step to step as it heads toward the lower basin.  On average, make the stream bed roughly 3 ft (0.91 m) and at least 6 in (15 cm) inches deep. Pile the soil into ridges to create a staircase effect that makes the water travel downstream more efficiently. The first “step” in the stream needs to be the steepest. After that, add as many steps as you want or have room for. Try to leave some space between each step so you get the full effect of each mini waterfall. If your pond is small enough, get a single liner that stretches from the bottom basin to the top of the waterfall. Otherwise, use a separate liner for the lower basin or pond, stream, and upper basin or pond. After spreading the pond liner flat, lay a propylene underlayment on top of it to protect it from damage.  Use 45 mil liners, which are 45⁄1000 in (0.11 cm)-thick. To estimate the liner size you need, first calculate the pond or waterfall’s depth from top to bottom , double it, and add 1. Then, add that number to both the length and width to get the approximate liner size. For example, if you have a 10 ft x 5 ft x 3 ft basin, first calculate the depth as 6 x 2 + 1. Then, add the depth of 7 to the length and width. You need a liner at least 17 ft × 12 ft (5.2 m × 3.7 m) in size.
Summary: Stack rocks and blocks to create a basin for an above-ground waterfall. Dig Create a second hole for the pump if you’re making a pondless basin. Create the upper waterfall pool and stream by digging and smoothing out the soil. Spread an EPDM pond liner and underlayment over each part of your waterfall.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Keeping your legs bent throws off your balance even when you are on the ground. When you are in a stunt, squeeze your legs muscles as tight as they can go with your legs as straight as possible. This will help you keep your balance in the air. Locking your knees will also make it easier for your bases to hold you. If you roll onto your toes or the sides of your feet, you will throw off your balance. Keep your feet or foot flat when you are holding a stunt to maintain your balance and your body strength. This will also make it easier for the bases to keep you held up. It is important to hold each stunt position with your entire body to keep your balance and make sure you don’t fall. Start with flexing your rear muscles together as tight as they can go. Then, hold your legs, arms, and torso in place by flexing those muscles as well. Try using the “pinch-a-penny” method where you imagine there is a penny in between your bum cheeks. Squeeze them tight so your imaginary penny doesn’t fall out. It can be tempting to glance at the floor while you are up in the air. However, looking down can throw your balance off or even make you fall. Keep your head up and focus on something straight forward or high up. You may also seem like you lack confidence if you keep looking at the floor.
Summary: Lock your knees when you are in a stunt. Keep your supporting foot flat in a stunt. Keep your entire body flexed tightly in stunt positions. Avoid looking down when you are in a stunt.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Sit on the toilet and rock it back and forth or side to side. If you notice shaking, your toilet may need minor or serious leveling. Start with small adjustments and, if the toilet still feels uneven, move on to more extensive adjustments later. If you are trying to make the toilet completely level, use a carpenter's level to measure how close the floor is to even. Plastic shims are made specifically for leveling toilets, but stainless steel washers can work just as well. There are 2-4 bolt caps on both sides of the toilet bottom to secure it to the floor. Take off the bolt caps to reveal the hex nuts, and loosen them with a wrench. In some cases, the toilet may be wobbly because these nuts are loose. If that’s the case, simply tighten them! Wedge a few shims or washers in between the floor and bottom of the toilet to make your toilet even and prevent rocking. Try adding 1 or 2 first, then add more later on if the ones you've added don't do the trick. After you've wedged several shims or washers under your toilet, tighten the hex nuts again with your wrench. Place the bolt caps on top of the hex nuts to keep them secure so they don't loosen later on. If adding washers or shims fixed the problem, the only thing left to do is to caulk the toilet the the floor. Use a caulk gun to squeeze a bead of caulk around the base of the toilet where it meets the floor. Smooth out the bead using your finger, then wipe your finger on a wet rag. Caulking the toilet keeps the shims and washers secure in addition to preventing moisture from getting trapped under the toilet. If your toilet still seems wobbly even after adding multiple washers or shims, you may need to make larger adjustments. Remove the toilet to work on the closet flange if adding washers or shims has no effect on how level it is.
Summary:
Check the toilet for wobbliness. Purchase stainless steel washers or plastic shims from a hardware store. Remove the bolt caps and loosen the hex nuts. Add stainless steel washers or shims to the bottom of your toilet. Re-tighten the hex nuts. Caulk the toilet to the floor if the problem is fixed. Continue adding steel washers or shims until the toilet feels even and level.