No matter what picture you're editing, the difference between your darkest areas and your lightest areas (called Contrast) should be distinct. This leads to more compelling photos. Your goal is a well-lit picture with deep, dark blacks and bright, well-defined whites. Use the brightness to make sure the picture is still clear as well.  Click "Image" → "Adjustments" → "Brightness/Contrast..." Make sure "Preview" is checked so you can see how the image changes as you move the slider. Almost all images can benefit from 10-15 points of higher contrast, at the least. Going too far can make the picture look like something out of Willy Wonka, but saturation is a necessary adjustment in almost every shot, especially with a lower-cost camera.  Click "Image" → "Adjustments" → "Hue/Saturation." Increase saturation by 5-10 points, adding a few points at a time until you hit your desired level. Slide the saturation bar all the way to the left to put the picture in black and white. This can happen under some indoor lights, which can make the whole shot look yellow or green. Hue settings, found along with Saturation, let you change the overall color palate of the picture for strange, artsy effects or to correct these all-over color issues.  Click "Image" → "Adjustments" → "Hue/Saturation." Even small changes to Hue can make dramatic effects, so work slowly. The most common use of this is when the sun forms a big, unsightly bloom of white light in the corner of the picture, washing out part of the actual photo. Alternatively, it helps when a shadow obscures half of someone's face. Shadow/HIghlights targets the lightest and darkest parts of a shot directly while leaving the other areas intact:  Click "Image" → "Adjustments" → "Shadows/Highlights." Lower the Shadow slider to make the dark areas lighter. Raise the Highlight slider to darken up any bright areas. This filter is not god, and can't fix seriously blurry photos. But it can make a serious difference for slightly "soft" shots, bringing back some clarity and definition in the photo's lines. To use it:  Click "Filter" from the top Menu. Under "Sharpen...", choose "Sharpen" for a minor adjustment, and "Smart Sharpen" for a more detailed effect. Under "Smart Sharpen," use "Amount" to choose how severely you'll sharpen sharpen, "radius" to make more precise lines, and "Reduce Noise" to smooth out any over-sharpened areas. The bigger the image, the more apparent the blemishes and issues. Shrinking the image will provide some clarity, as the pixels are more compact and our eyes do a better job filling over blurry or grainy areas. To shrink an image:  Click "Image" → "Image Size." Choose whether or not to change the size in inches, pixels, or even as a percentage of the original. Make sure the chain icon is on -- this keeps the proportions of your new image the same instead of shrinking it unevenly. Cut 25% or so of the image, shrinking more if needed.
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One-sentence summary -- Use the Brightness/Contrast sliders to get dark, complete blacks and vivid whites. Increase an image's Saturation to make the colors more vibrant and eye-popping. Edit the picture's hue if the whole thing is tinted the wrong color. Use the "Shadows/Highlights" settings to remove any overly bright areas and weaken dark shadows. Use the Sharpen filter to help combat semi-blurry or out of focus shots. Consider shrinking very blurry or lower-quality images to minimize the problem.

Article: One player lines up the cue ball behind the head string and aims at the rack. Knock the cue ball into the triangle of balls with force and precision. To execute a legal break shot, the breaker must either pocket a ball, or drive at least four numbered balls to the rail. When the breaker fails to execute a proper break, it is a foul. If the breaking player scratches on his or her shot, then the game has only partially begun. In the case of a foul, the incoming player has two options: accept the table as is and take the next shot, or re-rack the balls for a redo of the opening break. The incoming player gets to choose whether to personally break or to allow the original breaker to try again.  If a player scratches on a legal break shot:  All balls pocketed remain pocketed. The shot is a foul, meaning that it is now the other player's turn to shoot. The table is open, meaning that the first player to sink a ball without scratching chooses that ball type (stripes or solids) as his or her objective for the game.   If a player jumps a numbered ball off the table on the break shot, it is a foul. The incoming player has two options:  Accept the table in position. Take the next shot and continue the game. Take the cue ball in hand behind the head string. Shoot or break again, as necessary.   If the 8-ball is pocketed on the break, then the breaker may ask for a re-rack, or have the 8-ball spotted and continue shooting. If the breaker scratches while pocketing the 8-ball on the break, the incoming player has the option of a re-rack or having the 8-ball spotted and begin shooting with ball in hand behind the head string. Before groups are chosen, the table is "open." The first player to sink a numbered ball effectively chooses to aim for that group of balls throughout the rest of the game. If you are the breaking player, for instance, and you sink the striped 13-ball, then you are "stripes." Look around for other striped balls that are easy to strike. Your goal is to pocket all of the striped balls (and then the 8-ball) before your opponent pockets all of the solid balls and the 8-ball.  Make it clear who is who. If you make a stripe, call out, "I'm stripes!" If you make a solid, call out, "I'm solids!" If you are the first player to pocket a numbered ball, but you sink both a stripe and a solid at the same time: you have your pick between the two groups. Choose the group that looks the most immediately advantageous.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Break the rack. Know what to do in case of a scratch or foul. Choose groups.