You'll want to remove the skin as soon as is possible, but it's important to keep the animal from spoiling before you commit to preserving it and caring for the skin. To be safe, freeze the animal so you can acquire the necessary materials for performing basic taxidermy in the meantime:  Sharp knife Sewing needle Thread Stuffing or plaster cast of animal Borax, alcohol, or your preferred preserving agent Depending upon your animal, you can prepare a plaster cast of the body at this point, or purchase a premade form (as is usually done with deer busts). You can also create your own form out of recycled materials, a particularly useful process for smaller animals. Use sticks to create a wood frame the size of the skinned body, and wrap the frame in twine or old plastic bags.  To prepare a cast, purchase a commercial molding agent like "Smooth On" to create a shape mold of the animal to fill with plaster. Mix a small batch of plaster with water and pour quickly into your mold. Remove the mold and smooth the cast form with sandpaper or a small pocketknife. Don't worry too much about the details, you really just want the basic form and shape to fit the skin. If you make your own form, it helps to have a workable example to compare it to. Take a picture of the animal before you remove the skin and use materials that can be manipulated easily once you've started putting the form together. Mammal legs are particularly difficult to get right. Consider purchasing a premade mold for your first go around to use as a model for subsequent projects. Whether you're going to preserve an iguana or a bobcat, the process starts by removing the skin and preserving it.  The particulars of the preservation process will vary depending on whether or not you have a mammal or a reptile, fish, or bird, so read on for more specific instructions regarding the preservation of the skin. Using a sharp knife, carefully cut a seam up the belly, being particularly careful not to puncture any of the organs or body cavity, which can ruin the skin. Work your knife evenly along the inside to loosen the skin, while peeling it back with your other hand. Think of it as taking off the animal's jacket and trousers. Remove as much of the flesh and fat as possible, using care to not tear or rip the skin. Remove the skin from a mammal's head as you would the rest of the body, but for lizards, fish, and birds, you'll need to remove the brain, eyes, and tongue and leave the shape of the head intact for preservation. The physiology of the bird makes it such that you can't (and wouldn't want to) remove the beak, so you'll have to remove the parts of the bird that would spoil and smell bad. Smaller animals are much more difficult to taxidermy than larger mammals. It helps to have small dentistry tools or an X-Acto knife for this part of the process, and you must be careful to remove as much of the flesh as possible. Small debris can be removed during the preservation process, but you'll want to make sure you get most of the big bits of flesh removed from the head before moving on. It takes patience and a strong stomach.
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One-sentence summary -- Freeze the animal until you're ready to prepare it. Prepare the form. Remove the skin. If you're preserving a fish, bird, or a lizard, leave the head alone.


Inspect the floor carefully for deep cracks, gouges, and places that have sunken due to continual wear. Fill in these areas by slathering a small amount of patching compound directly over the problem area using a hand trowel. Smooth the compound with the flat side of the trowel and use the edge to work it further into deep openings.  Allow the patching compound to cure completely before proceeding. This may take 1-4 hours, depending on the exact product you use. You can find pre-mixed patching compound at any hardware store or home improvement center. Unless your floor is severely damaged, you'll most likely only need a small bucket. with an electric buffer or sander to make sure it’s level. Switch on your polisher and guide it over the surface of the concrete in tight, overlapping circles. Work your way gradually from one end of the room to the other, focusing on areas that are marred by obvious imperfections, such as divots and uneven textures, as well as the places you filled in with patching compound.  Polishing may not be necessary if your concrete floor is relatively new. However, it’s a good idea to go ahead with the process if the concrete shows any paint splotches, oil stains, or similar residue. If you’re staining a concrete floor that was previously covered with tile, you'll need to use a floor grinder equipped with diamond bits to remove stubborn scraps of dried mortar from the floor.  You may need to use an extension cord to polish large rooms like foyers or galleries. Go over the entire surface using a powerful Shop-Vac to suck up the dust generated by polishing. Try to get up as much lingering debris as possible. Don’t forget to suction the corners and the area around the baseboards, as well. If you don't have a Shop-Vac on hand, sweep up as much dust as you can with a heavy push broom and dustpan, then go over the area again using a standard household vacuum with a floor attachment. Squeeze some grease-cutting liquid dish soap into a large bucket, then fill the bucket with warm water. Stir the soap and water together until they form a sudsy solution. Mop the floor from corner to corner, or scrub it using a stiff-bristled broom or thick handcloth.  After cleaning the floor, go over it with a squeegee to remove as much standing water as possible. If your floor is especially grimy or oily, you may need to apply a small amount of trisodium phosphate (TSP) or a similar degreaser to lift away heavy residue. Concrete stains tend to stick better to floors that have been chemically etched prior to application. If you want to etch your floor, pick up a bottle of etching acid and follow the specific instructions laid out on the label. Most types of chemical etching agents need to be mixed with warm water and scrubbed onto the floor using a rigid brush.  Not all concrete stains require the surface to be etched—in fact, some products advise against it. Be sure to read the recommended uses of the stain you’re working with before you attempt to etch your floor. When applied correctly, the etching acid will create tiny imperfections in the smooth concrete, making it easier for substances like stains to permeate the surface. Stretch a roll of painter’s tape along the perimeter of the room where the lower part of the wall meets the floor. This will prevent the stain from getting anywhere it’s not supposed to be. You can also cover any parts of the floor you plan on leaving exposed. Take your time and work carefully to make sure everything is properly protected. Concrete stain can be extremely difficult to remove once it’s been applied.
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One-sentence summary -- Repair damaged spots using a concrete patching compound. Polish the floor Vacuum the floor to remove dust and debris. Clean the floor with soapy water to eliminate any remaining dirt. Consider etching the floor to help the stain adhere. Tape off areas you don’t want to come into contact with the stain.


Click the Gear icon in the top-right. Select Manage Add-ons from the menu. In the window that appears, select Search Providers from the left frame. Remove MyStart Search and Incredibar from the list. Be sure to remove both entries. Click the Gear icon again and select Internet Options. In the General tab, delete the MyStart address from the Home Page section and enter a new one that you prefer. Press Apply to save your changes. In the General tab of Internet Options, click the Delete… button under Browsing History to delete your cookies. This will remove cookies from your computer that refer to MyStart.
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One-sentence summary --
Remove the MyStart search engine. Change your home page back. Delete your browser data.