Summarize the following:
Especially with older pool tables where the frame may be difficult to deconstruct, over the course of your move, you may have caused the configuration of the frame to shift. This could create difficulty when inserting the slate. Use a level to check that the frame is still properly shaped. You may also want to use a carpenter's square to check the corner angles of your table. Older tables, or tables that have sat in one location for a long time, may have experienced warping, or may have conformed to the natural contours of the home in which it lived. This might mean that you need an additional piece, separate from the parts of your pool table, to balance it and negate any rocking you may notice once the table is moved. When choosing a piece to balance a rocking pool table, you need to choose a material that won't compress under the weight of it. Scrap steel or a sturdy tile might do the trick. Buildings frequently have a slight pitch to them, and pool tables, to combat these potential angles, will often have adjustable feet. After you've taken care of the frame configuration and any major imbalances, you can move on to leveling the table. Have a friend hold the level atop a flat part of the frame and:  Take the level reading. If the table isn't level, lift the end that needs adjusting. Have a friend adjust the leg in the appropriate direction. Set the pool table down. Check the level reading again and repeat if necessary. Significant damage to the slate of your pool table is likely to require a professional repair or even replacement, but small chips or cracks might be within your ability to mend. For small cracks or chips, mix some Plaster of Paris and apply it to the area, while larger cracks can be patched with automotive body filler. After your patch has hardened, you'll need to sand your patch level. There is little you can do to your table if the entire frame has warped to the point that the slate now sits in its mounting on an angle. The slate, on the other hand, can be adjusted. After fitting the slate together and fixing any damage, you can cut thin wedges of wood, called shims, and use these to level your slate. Some older pool tables will use special bolts to connect the rails to the narrow edge of the slate. To remove and attach the rails of an antique pool table, a T-bolt wrench will make the process much easier.

summary: Check for twists or frame tension. Take warps in stride. Re-level the table. Fix the slate. Level slate in a warped frame. Know how to handle antique rails.


Summarize the following:
Once your expanding foam has dried, it will have expanded significantly and may extend a couple of inches away from the door. Using your utility knife, cut the excess foam away until the foam is slightly lower than the surface of the door. The expanding foam needs to be completely dry before you start trimming. If the center of the foam is still wet, wait a few hours until it’s fully dry. Scoop or squeeze an auto-body filler out of its container and into a disposable bowl or any sort of plastic tray. Then squeeze in half as much hardener catalyst. This material will quickly harden and cover the outside of the door hole. These are both thick, putty-like liquids; use a popsicle stick to stir them until the substances are fully blended.  Start out with about 1 teaspoon (4.9 ml) of the auto-body filler and half as much catalyst. Mix more as needed. Both auto-body filler (such as Bondo) and a hardener catalyst should be available at a large hardware store. If not, check a home-supply store or an auto-body business. Use your popsicle stick to scoop up some of the filler mix and smear it over the dried foam that’s filling the hole in your door. This material will dry and harden quickly, so you’ll need to work fast.  After about 5 minutes, once the filler has started to thicken, take the edge of a putty knife and scrape it across the filler. This will smooth the surface and remove any excess, semi-dry filler. Wait to proceed until the filler has fully dried. Use the sandpaper to sand the fully dried filler until it’s completely smooth and flush with the surface of the door. Also sand off any leftover expanding foam or filler that has stuck to the plywood door material around the edges of the hold you’ve filled. Sandpaper of all grit consistencies will be available at your local hardware store.
summary: Cut the protruding foam. Mix auto-body filler and a hardener catalyst at a 2:1 ratio. Apply the filler mixture over the dried expanding foam. Sand the filler with 100-grit sandpaper.