In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: The value of the "sit" and "wait" seem obvious, but you may not understand at first why the "stand" is an important skill to teach your dog. You won't use the "stand" every day, but you'll need it throughout the dog's life. For example, a dog who can stay calmly in a "stand" is the ideal patient at a vet clinic or client at a groomer's. Grab his favorite toy or prepare a handful of treats to both focus your dog's attention and reward him for learning the command. Put the dog in a starting "down" or "lie down" position when working with the "stand" command. He should move from lying down to standing up to get his toy or treats. You want to coax him into the standing position by having him follow the toy or treat. Hold the toy or treat in front of his face, at nose height. If he sits, thinking that will earn him a reward, try again, but with the treat or toy slightly lower. Flatten your hand with your palm down. If you're using a treat, hold it with your thumb against your palm. Start with your hand in front of his nose and move it away a few inches. The idea is that the dog will stand up while following your hand. You may need to use your other hand to encourage him from underneath his hips to get the idea at first. As soon as he reaches the standing position, praise and treat. Although you haven't yet started using the verbal "stand" command, you can use it in your praise: "good stand!" At first, you will work only on getting your dog to stand by following the hand that holds his toy or treat. When he's mastered that concept, begin incorporating the "stand" command into the training sessions. There are many ways to combine commands. After getting your dog to "stand," you might add a “wait” or “stay” command if you want the dog to stand for longer periods of time. You can also follow with a "sit" or "down" to do some “doggy drills,” and gradually increase the distance between you and the dog. Eventually, you'll have your dog performing these commands from across the room.
Summary: Understand the value of the “stand” command. Prepare for the training session. Focus the dog’s attention. Encourage the dog to follow your hand. Give immediate praise. Add the verbal "stand" command. Combine the “stand” with other commands.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Fenton milk glass is known for its ornate pieces with raised bumps and frilled edges. Most Fenton pieces will have an "F" or "Fenton" engraved inside of an oval on the bottom side of the item. If your item has this engraving, it could be genuine.  After 1980, Fenton started to put a single number after the "F" or "Fenton" engraving, to denote the first number in the decade. Therefore, all Fenton glassware made in the 80's has an "8" after the "F" or "Fenton." Fenton has been making glassware since 1905. If "PV" or "Vallerysthal" is a raised engraving on the bottom of the piece, it may be a genuine item from Vallerysthal Glassworks of France. Typically, these pieces are a bluish-white color and are made into glass animals or shells.  Some newer Vallerysthal pieces have a sticker that says "PV France" on the bottom of the item instead of an engraving. Vallerysthal Glassworks was founded in 1836 in France and still makes glassware today. An engraving of "WG" on the bottom of the item means that the product was produced by Westmoreland in America. They are known for their rimmed edges and grape and floral designs.  If the "G" overlays the "W" in the logo, there’s a good chance that the item was produced before the 1980s. Westmoreland made glassware from 1889-1984. Fostoria pieces typically have a paper label that denotes the brand; however, older pieces may be missing the label. Luckily, most Fostoria pieces have the same sort of engraving--an ornate crossing pattern that creates raised triangles on the surface of the piece.  Not all Fostoria pieces have its famous pattern. Fostoria usually makes vases, cups, and bowls. Fostoria made glass from 1887-1986.
Summary: Look for an engraved "F" or "Fenton" on the bottom of the piece. Search for a "Vallerysthal" or "PV" engraved on the bottom. Check for a "WG" engraving or fruits, birds, and/or flowers on the piece. Identify Fostoria pieces by its etching or paper label.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Cooking whole, raw corn on the cob is a cinch. Gather your corn (husks on) and set them in the microwave. You may place them on a paper towel or a microwave-safe plate, but as long as the husks are on and your microwave is clean, this isn't required. If you're cooking more than four ears, limit yourself to batches of four at a time — many microwaves will have trouble heating more than four at once.  Don't take the husks off yet. If you've already done this, your corn isn't ruined, but leaving the husks on will help keep the ears moist and delicious. You can wrap the ears in a paper towel if desired to duplicate the effect of the husks. Set your microwave to "HIGH" or its default cooking setting for between three and five minutes. Depending on the number of ears you're cooking, the precise cooking time can vary — one online source recommends three minutes for one or two ears and four minutes for three or four ears. Because microwaves can vary in terms of cooking strength, you may find that it's a good idea to cook a little less time than you think you need to, then check on the corn. You can always cook the corn for an extra minute or two if needed, but you can't "undo" the damage once it's overdone. After a few minutes in the microwave, the ears' outer husks may not feel terribly hot, but the insides are likely piping hot. To avoid injury, set the corn (husks still on) on a wire cooling rack for about five minutes to cool. You're ready to proceed when the silks (the stringy part inside the husk) and the tops of the leaves are cool enough to handle with your bare hands. One of the benefits of leaving the husks on (besides preserving the internal moisture of the ears of corn) is that they act like insulators, keeping the kernels fairly warm. As soon as you take the husks off, however, the kernels will start to cool much more rapidly, so wait until right before you're ready to eat to do your shucking. Be careful while you shuck the corn — the insides can still be hot. If you're unsure, peel back the husk a little bit and carefully feel the kernels with the back of your hand. For a step-by-step guide, see our corn-husking article.
Summary:
Set up to four ears of corn in the microwave. Microwave for at least three minutes. Let the corn cool. Shuck just before serving.