Q: Start with 80-grit sandpaper, then work your way up to 220-grit. How much you sand is really up to you; the more you sand, the smoother the finish will be. This is very important, as any dust left behind from sanding can get trapped in your finish. This can lead to a messy, unprofessional finish. Apply a coat of polyurethane coating with a sponge brush. Wait for the coat to dry, then sand it with 500-grit sandpaper. Do this 2 more times, then wipe the surface down with mineral spirits. Wet-sand the surface with a 2000-grit sanding pad. Wipe the residue off, then allow it to dry overnight. Apply 1 coat of shellac, then let it dry. Sand it with 400-grit sandpaper. Repeat this 2 more times for a total of 3 coats. Allow the shellac to dry completely. Finish off with a spray of lacquer for extra-durability. Rub 1 coat of wood oil into the wood with a cotton rag. Let it dry, then wipe the rest off. Do this 1 to 2 more times. Follow up with 2 coats of wood butter using the same technique. Finish off with 1 coat of wood wax. Let it set, then buff the excess off. Let it cure overnight before applying a second coat. Allow the wax to cure for 3 days, then buff it. How long the slab needs to cure for depends on what type of finish you used. Some finishes need only a few hours to cure while others need a couple of days. Check the instructions on the label of the jar or bottle. Once the finish has cured, you can turn your slab into a bench, table, headboard, etc.
A: Sand the surface until you get the smoothness you want. Vacuum your workspace to get rid of any dust. Seal the surface with polyurethane if you want to keep things simple. Use shellac and lacquer for a natural, glossy finish. Apply wood oil, butter, and wax if you want bring out the natural grain. Allow the finish to cure before you use the slab.

Q: Layering is essential on spring days because the weather can easily shift between cool and warm. After you select a cute warm-weather look, throw on a lightweight jacket, windbreaker, or sweater to banish the chill. Later, you can remove your top layer to stay cool in the warm part of the day.  You might wear an open-weave sweater over a cute spring dress. If you’re wearing a top and shorts, a skirt, or pants, try a denim jacket, hoodie, or button-up sweater. A cardigan can keep you warm during the cool parts of the day and in an air-conditioned workspace. Additionally, it helps your spring styles look more professional. Choose a neutral-colored cardigan for an everyday look or add a stylish flair by picking one the complements the colors in your outfit.  For instance, you might get a light grey or beige cardigan for spring that will go with most outfits. On the other hand, you might prefer to get a range of colors so that each outfit has a matching option. You could wear a lavender cardigan over a purple floral dress or a yellow cardigan over a yellow polka dot blouse. Blazers are a classic work style that look great for any season. Pick a blazer that’s a neutral color for an easy option or opt for a color that matches your outfit. Throw on a blazer with a button-up and pants, a skirt ensemble, or a dress.  White, grey, navy, brown, and tan blazers will all work great for neutral colors during spring. You might wear a navy blazer with a white button-up and khakis. If you like bright colors, you might pair a yellow blazer with a solid colored button-up or a patterned blouse. Spring will likely have a few cold days, so keep warm with a nice, lightweight overcoat. Choose a style like a trench or day coat that’s flexible but professional. Khaki is a popular choice, but you could also try grey, navy, or bright colors.  For an easy stylish look, stick to a classic khaki trench coat. If you want to invest in a few key spring pieces, a brightly colored light-weight coat might be a great option. Try a pastel color for a fun look.
A: Wear a sweater or light jacket on chilly days. Pair a lightweight cardigan with a blouse or dress. Choose a thin blazer that will look stylish while keeping you cool. Wear a thin trench coat or day coat if it’s cool outside.

Q: You can open the menu by tapping the "☰" button.   You will not be asked to confirm, so make sure you really want to delete it before tapping "X". You will be asked to confirm that you want to delete everything.
A: Log into the mobile app and open the menu. Scroll down and tap the "Activity Log" option. Tap "Filter" and select "Search" from the list. Remove a single entry by tapping the "X" next to the entry. Clear your entire search history by tapping the "Clear Searches" button.

Q: The first stage of making mead is a mixture called a “must.” Bring the water to a boil in a large pot and add it to the container you will ferment your mead in, then stir in honey. Do not add the honey to the boiling pot of water or it will alter the flavor of the honey, and the honey may stick to the bottom of the pot. Make sure the honey has fully combined with the water before moving on. Once the honey has fully combined with the water, you can add your fruit and spices to the must. Place your fresh fruit into the mixture without smashing or muddling the fruit to avoid changing the color of the mead. Add your tea bag full of spices and herbs into the liquid and give it a nice stir.  For fresh fruit, add 1 pound (0.45 kg) per 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water. For spices like nutmeg and cinnamon, add 2 tbsp (~14 g) per 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water. For fresh herbs, add 1 cup (~25 g) per 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water. For dried herbs, add 2 tbsp (~3 g) per 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water. After you’ve combined the ingredients to form the must, you can use a hydrometer to check the specific gravity of the mixture. This will allow you to determine the potential alcohol content of your mead. It’s important to check the gravity of the must before you add your yeast because it will be difficult to alter the mixture once the yeast begins working to ferment the must. The baseline reading of your must should be somewhere between 1.060 and 1.120 on the hydrometer. Once you’ve got the must flavor profile and ABV that you want, it’s time to add the yeast. A standard packet of brewing yeast is enough for up to 5 gallons (19 L) of mead, so use 1 gram (or one-fifth of the packet) if you're only making 1 gallon (3.8 L) of mead. Simply stir the yeast into the must and mix it in thoroughly. Adding too much yeast will only make the fermentation process go a little faster and will not damage or alter the taste of your mead. When the enzymes in the yeast begin to break down the sugars in the honey, it will release gasses that can build up in the container and potentially explode. Use a rubber stopper that fits over the opening in the container, then place the stem of the airlock into the hole of the rubber stopper, and place them both into the opening of the container. It’s important that you have an airlock so you can release the gasses while keeping the mead free from any contamination.  Whether you’re using a plastic container or a glass carboy, it needs to be sealed so the fermentation process can begin, and an airlock is needed to allow the gasses to escape.
A:
Mix 1 US gal (3.8 L) of water and 3 lb (1.4 kg) of honey in your bucket or carboy. Add your fruit, spices, and herbs to the container of must. Use a hydrometer to check the specific gravity of the must. Add the yeast to the must. Seal the container of must and attach an airlock with a rubber stopper.