Problem: Article: Take ¼ of your total stitches from the first double pointed needle and ¼ of your total stitches from the last double pointed needle and transfer them onto 1 needle. You will then work back and forth across this needle in rows to extend the heel section of your stocking.  For example, if you have a total of 68 stitches, then you would need to transfer 17 stitches from the first needle and 17 stitches from the last needle onto a single needle. You will not be working the rest of the stitches for a while, so you may want to secure them on the other 2 needles using end caps. These are small eraser-like cones that you can stick onto the ends of needles to ensure that your stitches stay put. Take the first stitch from your needle with all of the stitches on it and slip it onto your other needle. Then, knit to the end of the row and turn your work around. Slip the first stitch onto the empty needle. Then, purl to the end of the row. Turn your work around again. Keep working back and forth across the same row to extend the heel portion of the stocking. Repeat the last 2 rows until your heel piece measures 2.25 inches (5.7 cm). When your heel piece measures 2.25 inches (5.7 cm), start decreasing by 1 stitch each row. For the first row, slip 1 stitch over from the needle with all the stitches on it to the empty 1, and then knit until you only have 3 stitches left. Then, knit 2 stitches together for a decrease, and then knit the last stitch. Next, slip 1 stitch over to the other needle, and then purl until there are only 3 stitches left in the row.  Then, purl 2 stitches together and purl the last stitch. Repeat the last two rows in sequence for 6 more rows or a total of 8 rows. This will continue to shape the heel section of your stocking. After your 8th row, knit across the row. However, do not turn the work around when you reach the end of the row. Use the needle to pick up 12 stitches along the side of the heel section, moving downwards towards the other double pointed needle. To pick up a stitch, insert the needle through the first stitch, loop the yarn over the needle, and then pull this loop through the stitch. Repeat this process until you have picked up 12 stitches along the side of the heel section. When you finish picking up stitches, begin knitting across the other needles. Knit all the way across the other 2 needles until you reach the other side of the heel section. Pick up 12 stitches along the other side of the heel section. This time, move up the side of the heel section towards the top of the heel section.
Summary: Move half of the stitches onto one needle. Slip a stitch and knit to the end of the first row. Slip a stitch and purl to the end of the second row. Repeat this sequence until the heel measures 2.25 inches (5.7 cm). Slip a stitch, knit, knit 2 together, and knit 1. Slip a stitch, purl, purl 2 together, and purl 1. Repeat this sequence for 6 more rows. Knit across the row. Pick up 12 stitches on side of heel section. Knit around to the other side. Pick up 12 stitches on other side of heel section.

Problem: Article: A blank wall in your home is a great place to practice graffiti. Try writing the scripts you practiced with spray-paint, paint and paintbrushes, and marker pens. When the paint dries, you can paint over it with a new design to continue practicing.  If you’re self-conscious about your practice, choose an out-of-sight wall, like one in your basement or behind your house. If you don't have the option of working directly on a wall, put up some thick paper and practice on that instead. After practicing like this for a while, thick layers of paint will build up on your wall. This can negatively impact the quality of your practice. Remove old paint by sanding it away and keep on practicing. Calligraphy is the art of writing decorative letters. The many unique scripts in calligraphy can also be used in your graffiti. Calligraphy starter kits can be found at most hobby shops, craft stores, and through online sellers. Due to the crossover between calligraphy and graffiti, graffiti scripts that are especially ornate are sometimes called “calligraffiti.” A tag is your graffiti signature. Many graffitists tie major themes in their work together together with their tag. For example, if peace and harmony are important to you, you might dot i's in your name with peace signs.  Some tags may be unreadable, but a legible tag will help people identify your work more easily. Tags may change slightly over time, but generally they stay consistent. Artists with a more surreal style might make it look like the end of their name is melting, similar to the surrealist paintings of Salvador Dali. Graffitists with an environmental passion could decorate their signature with a leaf stencil overlaid with a few brightly colored stenciled flowers. Working with another graffiti artist can build up your skills. Your partner can give you advice or show you techniques to improve your weak areas, and vice versa. Additionally, you and your partner will likely be able to finish larger pieces in less time, gaining you experience more rapidly. You might be able to find someone to collaborate with by proposing a project on a Facebook graffiti group wall or a street art website message board. and use stencils. Stencils aren’t a crutch; many graffiti masters (like Banksy) frequently use stencils in their work. By layering different colors of paint with stencils, you can create complex designs with a high level of detail.  Hold onto stencils that turned out especially well. Down the road, if you want to reproduce the design, you won’t have to remake the stencil. A simple layered design can be made by spraying a leaf and vine stencil with green paint. Once that dries, spray a simple flower stencil on top to make a blooming vine. Consistently using a stencil combination that jives with your style can be a great way of gaining recognition and visibility.
Summary: Use a wall in your home for realistic practice. Learn and practice calligraphy. Invent your own unique tag. Collaborate with other graffiti artists. Make

Problem: Article: Your ficus needs well-draining soil, preferably peat mix, to prevent it from becoming waterlogged. Add soil until the pot is about 1/4 to 1/2 of the way full—you will fill it up completely as you transplant the ficus.  You can buy well-draining soil mixes at most nurseries or garden centers. Check the packaging for "well-draining" or ask an employee for assistance. To check soil drainage, dig a 1 foot (0.30 m) hole into the dirt and fill it with water. If the soil drains completely within 5-15 minutes, it is well-draining soil.  Make sure that the new pot also has a few holes in the bottom to aid drainage. Use your hands to loosen the root ball as much as you can without breaking it. This will help the ficus absorb more water and nutrients when you transplant it and adapt better to its new container. Position the ficus tree upright into the pot. Fill the rest of the pot with soil until you reach the soil level of the plant's original level. Don't make your soil level any higher than the original container, which can suffocate the roots. Ficus trees prefer temperatures of around 60–75 °F (16–24 °C), or around room temperature. They also prefer bright, but not direct, sunlight. Whether you place your ficus tree indoors or outdoors, choose a spot with with moderate temperatures and lighting. Avoid spots with sudden temperature changes or cold drafts. Near a closed window, for example, is better than by an open door.
Summary:
Fill the pot partway with well-draining soil. Loosen the roots before replanting the ficus. Place your ficus into the pot and fill it with soil. Place the pot in a spot with mild temperatures and bright lighting.