In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: For a basic cuff, you will need several feet of an elastic string, a selection of pony beads, and a pair of scissors. Although pony beads are classic for making a traditional kandi cuff, you can use any type of beads as long as the hole is large enough to fit your string through twice. Depending on how large your wrist is and how wide you want your cuff to be, you will have to use varying amounts of string. Wrap the string around your wrist to get a general measurement, and then multiply this length 5-6 times over. Cut the string  at this length; if you run out of string during the beading process, you can always cut and tie on a bit more. Tie a knot at the end of your string (leaving a small tail), and begin sliding on beads. Using about 25-30 beads is standard, but you'll just want enough so that the cuff will be big enough to slide on and off your wrist without being too loose. Pull the string and beads taut so that they are all lined up tight against the knot at the end of the string. Tie the short knotted end with the long loose end in a secure knot. Cut off the excess string from the short end, but leave the long end of the string intact.. The second row is a bit slower-going than the first, because the process involves adding a single bead and then weaving the string through the previous row. To bead the second row, string one bead on the long end of the string, and then slide the string through the bead directly under and next to the bead you’re working with. Add another bead, and slide the string through the bead next/under it on the first row. Continue this process all the way around, until you reach your starting point.Add one bead to the string, then thread the string over the first bead and through the second bead of the first row. This is how you weave the rows together. Because you’re skipping beads in the first row in order to weave the second row, your cuff will appear zig-zag with only two rows completed. Use the same process for adding the second row of beads to add the third row of beads. This time, you don’t need to tie the string off in a knot but can continue the process by adding beads to fill in the spaces. Slide a bead onto the string where there is a gap, and then attach it to the cuff by putting the string through the corresponding bead in the first row. Work your way all the way around the bracelet until you’ve created two full rows of beads, and tie off the string. Although you can technically have a complete cuff with only two rows of beads, many people prefer to add multiple rows in addition to the first two. Use the aforementioned method of weaving on beads to create an uneven row, and then adding another row to fill in the spaces. When you feel that your kandi cuff has been perfected, tie off the string and try it on for size! If at any point in the bracelet-making process you run out of string, you can cut an additional length and tie it to the ends, trimming off any excess to create a smooth transition.
Summary: Select the right materials. Measure and cut your string. Bead your first row. Tie off the first row. Bead the second row. Add a third row of beads. Add additional rows. Finish your bracelet.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: This is especially important if you’re creating a design that you want to look professional. Make sure you measure out where your holes should be in the leather, and then mark the spot with a marker or pen. Don’t make the mark too big – you want it small enough to disappear when you punch a hole through the leather at that spot. You can do this by hand with an awl or with a leather punch. The hole just needs to be big enough for you to get the post of the rivet through. The underside of the leather is usually less finished and will often be a lighter color. Make sure you push your rivet up through the leather from this side, or it will end up upside down. Your rivet post should only extend about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) above the surface of the leather. You can buy pretty small anvils from most leather working supply stores. You only need an anvil big enough to accommodate the size of the leather you’re working on. Place it on the anvil with the bottom of the leather facing down and the post sticking up. Some rivet caps will make a clicking or snapping noise when you place it over the top of the post. The rivet cap is the part that looks “finished” – it’s usually brass or copper and has a convex top. The rivet setter looks like a small metal cylinder, and it has a concave end that allows that cap to fit snugly against it. Place the setter over the cap so that the cap is flush against the setter. You don’t want to hit the setter too hard, because that can dent the rivet. Instead, give the setter a few short taps with a soft mallet or hammer. If the rivet has been set, you should be able to pick up the piece of leather without the rivet post or cap falling off. If they do, reset them and give the setter a little bit of a harder bang.
Summary: Mark where you want your hole. Punch a hole in your leather. Push the rivet post up through the underside of the leather. Place your leather piece on an anvil. Put the rivet cap on top of the post. Place your rivet setter over the cap. Tap the setter with a soft mallet or small hammer. Check that the rivet is set.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Soap molds are basically boxes for the liquid batter to set in. Any dry plastic container works, or you can buy silicone molds specifically for soap. If you have a wooden container, cover the inside with a silicone liner or freezer paper. Soap molds are available online and at some general stores. If you need a liner, freezer papers are available at most supermarkets. Fill each mold close to the top. Tap the mold against a hard surface a few times to break up air bubbles. Use a rubber spatula to scrape out excess batter to pour into a different mold or throw away.  Bump the mold against a hard surface a few times if it looks frothy. Try dropping it from a low height to knock out stubborn air bubbles. Don’t worry about breaking the soap into smaller bars yet. Wait until the soap solidifies for that. Tape a piece of cardboard over the mold to cover the soap. Then, wrap a towel around the entire mold to insulate it. Doing this helps the mold set properly, leading to better soap. If you don’t have cardboard, place parchment paper over the mold. The saponification process takes at least a day to happen. When you remove the soap from the mold, it will be hard and ready for cutting. Use a sharp kitchen knife to break the soap down into smaller bars. To smooth out the sides, scrape the soap with a vegetable peelers.  Keep your soap at room temperature and out of the reach of children and pets. If you used fresh lye, the soap is still dangerous to touch at this point. If your soap is too soft to cut, let it rest for an extra day. This happens most often in large, single molds. Move the soap bars into a cool but well-ventilated area. Try placing them near a window in your basement or on a countertop. Put them on top of wax paper or another disposable material to prevent the oils from damaging the surface the soap is on. Soap takes about 4 weeks to finish curing.  Soap can take anywhere from 3 to 8 weeks to cure completely. The time it needs depends on the oils you used. Check your recipe for the recommended curing time. Soap made using the melt and pour method typically solidifies within a few hours. At most, let it rest overnight before taking it out of the mold.
Summary:
Clean and line your soap molds. Pour the soap batter into the mold. Wrap the mold inside cardboard and a clean towel. Wait 24 hours before cutting into bars. Dry the soap for several weeks before using it.