Article: If you're having trouble getting over this person because of their good looks, try to think of some of their other flaws. For example, think of a time when this person behaved in a mean way toward you or your friends. You can't get anywhere in life just by sitting there and looking pretty.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Switch fantasy for flaws.
Article: The frame is the base of the bike and can be one of the most expensive parts you can buy. Getting a new frame usually means buying a brand new bike -- unless you have amazing brakes, pedals, gears, and handlebars on your old bike, it is rarely cost effective to buy a new frame and transfer everything over. When shopping for frames, there is a definite hierarchy in frame weight.   Carbon-fiber: The gold standard for light-weight bikes, carbon fiber is unfortunately a bit brittle. You will quite often see it on mountain bikes as the technology has progressed over the years so be careful if you decide to buy a second-hand carbon bike. Racing, triathlon, and high-end road bikes are almost exclusively carbon fiber.  Titanium: Titanium is another high-end option that has the same stiffness as steel but it’s not as dense. Titanium is often found on mountain and road bikes.  Aluminum: Strong and light, aluminum frames are the most common frames you can buy for any bike. They can be made as light as steel but will not be as light as carbon fiber.  Steel: Sturdy but heavy, steel is most common on old bikes, which are less concerned with lower weights. However, some custom steel bikes might still be under 20 lb (9.1 kg). Perhaps the best "bang for your buck" fix is to get lighter wheels. You will not only lose weight, but you'll also become remarkably more aerodynamic. Lower spoke-count wheels and wheels made of lighter material will all help lighten your bike. What constitutes an "upgrade" depends on what you currently have, however, generally speaking, you can't go wrong with a few sure-fire light fixes:  Steel or carbon-fiber wheels Tubular wheels, not recommended for anything other than racing as they require special tires that are difficult to install and replace. Aero wheels Mountain bike tires, which are big and knobby, are going to kill you going up a paved hill. If you find yourself riding more roads than trails, purchase a set of commuter or "cross" tires, which are lighter, offer less friction, and can still accommodate light trails riding. Slicks are also a viable choice for light trails such as footpaths. Look at your chain rings, which are the big metal gears next to your right pedal. If you have three, you should consider purchasing a "compact crank," which gives you two chain rings. While you'll have fewer gears to work with, you will lose weight. If still want to keep the gears but lose the weight, you might compromise with an extra gear in the back, known as your cassette. That said, many riders find that, after 1-2 weeks of riding a compact crank, they forget they ever had a third ring. Carbon fiber bars or specialty aerodynamic bars, like triathlon bars, will shave off weight and dampen some of the vibrations around your hands on bumpy roads. Remember, however, that carbon fiber is somewhat brittle so if you crash, be sure to get it checked at your local bike shop. There are a lot of additions people put on their bike that, unfortunately, do nothing but add weight. Get rid of any unnecessary saddlebags, lights, fenders, mudflaps, pumps, decorations, and reflectors, especially if you are riding on a dry day outside of a city.  If you're going on a short ride, drop any extra water bottle cages, though you should always have at least one water bottle present unless water will be provided by the race. These will only shave a few grams off your total weight -- hardly worth it if you remove a bike light that will protect you on busy roads. While this is mostly for racers, lighter,  shoes and aero helmets cut down weight keep you quick, and look professional. They can get expensive, however. You can also swap out your pedals for racing pedals and wear light-weight shoes that attach to them. Not for the faint of heart, race trimming involves shaving off every possible gram of weight you can. Professional rider Jack Pullar is perhaps the most extreme example, as he ripped off the seat covering and drilled holes out of his saddle, then sawed off the bottoms of his handlebars, to lose weight. While you should be careful, some race modifications include:  Sawing off your seat post 1-2 inches below where you have it set. Leave at least 2 1⁄2 in (6.4 cm) of the seat post in the seat tube or else you could damage your frame. Trimming the ends of all your cables and cable housings. Removing water cages and bolts. Unless you're willing to shell out $15,000 for a high-end, pristine 11lb bike, you're not going to be losing that much weight, ever. Switching a lighter group set (your gears) and derailleur, for example, saves the equivalent weight of 1/3 of an iPhone 4. You will not notice the difference. If you're entering the Tour de France, you'll want the absolute lightest bike you can get. Otherwise, stick to a few bigger, cost-effective fixes and work on getting stronger legs, not a lighter bike.  If you've got nice wheels and still want a lighter bike, get a carbon fiber seat or light, small pedals first. They won't make a huge difference, but they will make the bike lighter. Instead of spending money on a lighter bike for a minimal weight difference, try changing your lifestyle to lose body weight instead.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Get the lightest frame you can buy when you get a new bike. Switch out your wheels for easy, immediate weight loss. Make sure you're using the proper tires. Switch to a double crank in your front gears. Pick up aerodynamic handlebars. Remove any unessential hardware. Wear an aerodynamic pair of shoes and helmet. Consider race trimming your bike if you feel comfortable with mechanics. Know that you are usually saving grams, not pounds.
Article: To calculate the normal force of an object at an angle, you need to use the formula: N = m * g * cos(x)  For this equation, N refers to the normal force, m refers to the object's mass, g refers to the acceleration of gravity, and x refers to the angle of incline.  Example: Find the normal force of a block with a mass of 4.2 kg, sitting on a ramp with an incline of 45 degrees. The cosign of an angle equals the sine of the complementary angle, or the adjacent side divided by the hypotenuse of the triangle formed by the incline.  This value is often determined by a calculator, since the cosine of any angle is constant to that angle, but you can compute it manually, as well.  Example: cos (45) = 0.71 The weight of an object equals the mass of the object multiplied by the acceleration of gravity.  Note that the gravitational acceleration at the Earth's surface is a constant: g = 9.8 m/s2   Example: weight = m * g = 4.2 * 9.8 = 41.16 In order to find the normal force, you need to multiply the weight of the object by the cosine of the angle of incline.  Example: N = m * g * cos(x) = 41.16 * 0.71 = 29.1 The previous step should complete the problem and give you your answer.  Note that for an object sitting on an incline, the normal force should be less than the weight of the object.  Example: The normal force is 29.1 N.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Use the right equation. Find the cosine of the angle. Find the object's weight. Multiply the two values together. Write your answer.