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Most government IDs are printed on a proprietary cardstock that you won’t be able to purchase. Teslin paper is a good substitute and will closely resemble the feel of a government ID after you laminate and trim the final product. A lot of medium- and high-end laser printers have the capacity to print on Teslin paper, but the quality may be low if you try to use a printer that doesn’t have manual controls for the print settings. Once you print the ID on Teflin, you’ll need to laminate it to match the thickness and feel of the state that you’re replicating. Get a pouch laminator that matches the thickness of the style of ID that you intend on duplicating. Pouch laminators come in 4 sizes: 3, 5, 7, or 10 millimeters.  You can use regular laminate pouches if you want, but butterfly laminates come with a crease that reduces the odds of air bubbles forming on your ID. Since air bubbles are one of the biggest tip-offs that an ID is fake, you really need to use a butterfly pouch. Get a laminate pouch with a holographic exterior to make your ID look authentic. You won’t be able to find identical patterns unless you buy some illegally or download the template on the deep web. To get an accurate ID template, you’ll need to download one from a torrent-hosting site. You may be able to buy or download one from the deep web as well. You can try digitally-editing a scan or photo of an ID, but the resolution is unlikely to match the original.  The most popular torrent-hosting site is https://torrentfreak.com/. To digitally edit a real ID, you’ll need to use the duplicate/stamp clone tool and erase every single line of unique text. Some templates are form-fillable, meaning that you can simply type each line of text into the template and print it that way. If the ID photos for your state have a blue background, set up a blue drape or blanket behind you. Use three-point lighting to replicate the look of professional photos by setting up three light sources with 2 on either side of your camera and 1 above you. Set your camera on a tripod and use the self-timer to take your portrait. Don’t take your photo on a phone. Even if the picture looks good, the resolution is probably wrong for an ID card. Use a high-quality camera on a low shutter speed to take the photo. Set your photo up on a screen next to a copy of a real ID. Adjust the contrast, brightness, and saturation levels in your image until you’re confident that it looks like a real ID photo. Export your edited photo as a new image to save the original in case you aren’t happy with the final product. In Photoshop, click the adjustments panel on the side. Select the layer that your photo is on and slide the brightness, contrast, and saturation to adjust the colors and light in your photo. Import your new photo into the ID template and drag it to the proper location. Some templates will automatically center it for you, but you may need to crop the image so that it fits the slot for the portrait. If the photo stays behind the template when you move it, right click the photo and select the layers option. Click “front” or “bring to front.” Try to make as few adjustments to the size of your image as possible. This will reduce the odds that the resolution comes out fuzzy when you print the ID. In the United States (and many other countries), the eye color and hair color codes are 3 letters. They represent a corresponding color for hair and eyes. Use the code that most closely matches the hair and eye color of the person in the photo. Some IDs have restrictions and endorsements for drivers with disabilities, special exemptions, or unique licenses. Check your state’s ID to see if there are restriction and endorsement codes. If there are, write the endorsement code as “P,” for passenger vehicle, since this is the most common endorsement. The restriction code is usually either “A” or left intentionally blank for a regular driver. Other common restriction codes include “B” for people that wear corrective lenses or glasses, and “R” for motorcycles. If either of these apply to you, change the endorsement code. Use a thin drawing tool in your photo editing software to include the signature. Try to match the thickness of your line to the thickness of a real signature. Select black for the color of your line and use your mouse to carefully draw your signature. It may take multiple attempts before you get a signature that works.  It can be kind of tough to free-hand a signature with the mouse. Feel free to redo it until you get a signature that matches your real one. On a lot of fake IDs, the signature is a dead giveaway that it’s not authentic. Do your best to get the thickness of the lines to match by adjusting the size of your brush in the editing software. Keep in mind that the signature on IDs will never extend beyond the allotted borders for it on a real ID. Use the erase tool to trim any sections that go past the box for your signature. Go into the printer settings on your computer and set each slider to the highest quality possible. On the printer itself, make sure that all of the ink levels are high so that the color isn’t cloudy when you print your ID. If you can, use a pigment-based inkjet printer. These tend to produce vibrant results and work well with Teslin, even though they’re inkjet printers. They are usually more expensive though. Print your image. It may take a longer time than usual for the image to print. Let the ink dry by letting the paper sit for 30-45 minutes. Open a butterfly pouch by lifting the sheet and sliding the ID into it. Place the protective paper that came with the pouch on top of the butterfly pouch. The butterfly pouch is just a folded sheet of laminate. The crease at the top is the side you enter into the laminator first. This ensures that no air bubbles get trapped in the laminate. Set your laminator to a medium heat level. Place the sheet, Teslin paper, and butterfly pouch into the laminator crease-first. Slowly guide the ID through the machine and let it sit for 30-45 minutes before opening the paper and discarding it. You will see the pouch sealed around the ID. Trim the edges with a utility knife, to get a clean cut against the edge.
Purchase some Teslin paper to get a real ID feel. Get butterfly laminate pouches that match the thickness of the ID you’re copying. Find an ID Template online that matches the state that you’re trying to fake. Take a new photo using the same background and upload it to your computer. Edit the image in Photoshop, Fireworks, or GIMP to make it look real. Drag the image on to the template and trim any edges to make it fit. Adjust the text in the boxes so that they match your description. Modify the restriction and endorsement codes for your ID. Enter your signature using a thin paint tool in your editing program. Modify your printer settings to set them to the highest resolution. Print the ID on Teslin paper and fold it into the butterfly pouch. Laminate the pouch and trim the edges to finish the job.