INPUT ARTICLE: Article: If you are making your own plaster cast, you'll have to be able to remove the cast yourself. Removing a plaster cast requires having access to either plaster shears or an electric cutter. It's highly dangerous to do this process yourself, so have a friend ready to help you.  Plaster shears are safer than electric cutters. Plaster shears are available at medical supply companies. Never use another tool, such as an electric carving knife, to remove a plaster cast from a human arm. The stockinette will be placed between the skin and the cast to protect the arm. The stockinette should be 2 inches (5 cm) wide.  Unroll the stockinette the length of your forearm. Placing both your arm and the stockinette roll on a table is the easiest way to do this. The strip should begin 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the elbow and end 1 inch (2.5 cm) past the knuckles of your hand.  Cut 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) into the stockinette for your thumb. Make the cut at a 45-degree angle for best results. When you're finished, slide your arm into the stockinette, and your thumb through the 1/2-inch (1.3-cm) hole. You can wear this while you work on the remainder of the cast. Begin unrolling the 3-inch (7.6-cm) cast padding at your wrist. Wrap your wrist one time with the padding. As you wrap your wrist, hold the beginning end of the padding in place so it doesn't move, twist or slide.  Wrap the padding around the hand two times. Do not wrap the fingers. Cut the padding to go over the thumb if the padding bunches. Wrap the padding around the wrist, moving up the arm towards the elbow with each rotation of the wrap. Ensure that each new pass around the arm overlaps approximately 30% of the pass made before it. Keep the padding smooth as you wrap the arm. Stop wrapping below the elbow. The wrap should end below the elbow with a space about as wide as two horizontal fingers between the wrap and the elbow. Wrap the padding back down the arm. Stop at the wrist. Cut off the remainder of the padding with scissors. Place 2 rolls of 3-inch (7.6-cm) plaster casting and a roll of 4-inch (10.2-cm) plaster casting into a basin filled with warm water. The edges of the rolls should face upwards. Soak the plaster right before you apply it to the arm, so that the plaster will not dry out.  Remove the plaster when it has softened all the way through. Wring out the plaster gently. With your free hand, wrap the plaster casting around your forearm. Place the end of the 3-inch (7.6-cm) plaster approximately 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) below the top of the padding on the hand. Wrap the plaster around the hand twice.  Continue to wrap the arm, moving down towards the elbow. Do not pull on the plaster. Flatten the applied plaster with your hand as you wrap. Ensure that each new pass of the plaster overlaps the one before it. Stop wrapping the plaster 1 inch (3 cm) before the edge of the padding near the elbow. Continue to wrap your arm in the same manner, pressing each layer of plaster close to the one below so that it creates a solid, unified substance. Place the end of the 4-inch (10.2-cm) plaster casting near the elbow, where the 3-inch (7.6-cm) plaster casting ends. Wrap the casting around the arm, moving towards the hand. Do not pull on the plaster. Gently press the applied plaster with your hand to smooth it.  Stop wrapping underneath the thumb. Fold the leftover padding down over the cast, and wrap the last part of the plaster over the padding to secure the padding. You can speed up the drying process somewhat by holding it to a hand dryer, but for best results wait a full day before considering it finished.  Don't allow your cast to get wet. Take baths, rather than showers, while wearing your plaster cast. Make sure your cast is covered when you're outside in the rain. Snip the stockinette so that the shears can be placed in between the plaster and the padding. Try to cut straight down along the length of the cast. As your friend cuts, the shears should be removed and cleaned every 4-6 cuts.  This step should be planned prior to creating your plaster cast. If you've neglected to plan for this step, you should make an appointment at your local medical office and ask them to help you.

SUMMARY: Realize that you'll have to remove the cast. Open a tube of medical stockinette. Cut the ends of the stockinette with scissors. Affix the cast padding. Soak the plaster rolls. Apply the first roll of plaster casting. Apply the second roll of plaster casting. Allow 24 hours for the cast to dry completely. Ask a friend to help cut off the cast.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Scrub to remove all dust and debris from the surface. After washing, dry the window completely.  Make sure there is no paper or fabric left behind on the surface or else this will affect the final appearance of the frosted glass. This border will be the portion of window you don't want frosted.  Blue painter's tape. Painter's tape is specifically designed to endure wet applications. It has a weak adhesive allowing it to be easily removed.  For windows with lattice work or muntin bars (strips of wood between the glass), cover the wood with tape. If the 1-in. painter's tape width isn't a thick enough border, lay another piece alongside it.  Use a tape measure to ensure that borders are symmetrical; uneven borders look bad. If your window does not have a frame, simply tape along the outside edges until you have created a border. Use painter's tape to hold it in place.  Don't leave any openings or gaps where the spray could enter. When working indoors, open doors and windows and turn on fans to help circulate fresh air.  Consider wearing a particle mask to protect your nose and mouth. The spray fumes are hazardous to your health.  Take the window outside, if possible. This ensures a healthy work space and decreases the likelihood of "overspray," and frosting spray drifting onto other objects. Find frosting spray at craft and home improvement stores. While shaking the can, you should hear the small ball inside begin to rattle. Test spray on a small piece of cardboard.  If it sprays correctly, prepare to frost your glass.  If it is not spraying at a steady rate, continue shaking and testing in 1 minute intervals. Hold the frosting can at least 12 inches (30.5 cm) from from the window's surface to avoid splotches and runs.  Apply a light coating at first.  It is easier to go back and add a second or third layer to even out the frosting, but it is difficult to remove gloppy or runny patches. Expect 5-10 minutes for the frosting to become visible on the glass. Use the same back-and-forth motion to create a smooth frosted surface. If necessary, apply a third or fourth layer of frosting until you get the desired effect. Follow the spray can's directions regarding the wait time required between coats. If you are satisfied with the appearance of the frosting, apply sealer.  Acrylic sealers protect glass from the elements such as moisture and dirt. The protective gloss coating is often permanent.  If you are unhappy with the frosted surface after the sealant has already dried, you will need to scrape it off with a razor blade. Peel slowly to avoid accidentally removing the frosting.  If you worked indoors, remove the painter's tape cautiously.  This will prevent removal of paint from the walls. Use mineral spirits to clean any overspray from your hands and other objects.  Do not use mineral spirits to clean items with paint or nice finishes, as this could damage the quality.

SUMMARY:
Wash the window thoroughly. Tape a border along the inside of the window frame, using painter's tape. Cover the interior walls of the work area with masking paper or plastic sheeting. Shake the frosting spray can for the suggested length, usually 1-2 minutes. Spray the window using large, back and forth motions to cover the surface evenly. Apply a second coat of frosting after your first coat has completely dried. Spray acrylic sealer onto the frosted window after it has completely dried. Remove the painter's tape carefully from the glass after the frosting has dried.