Q: When your hair is fully covered, take a long sheet of plastic wrap and wrap your hair. Wrap the plastic all the way around your hairline and completely cover your hair and the top of your head. Don’t cover your ears.  Wrapping your hair in plastic will help keep the henna warm and moist, and this will allow it to set.  If you have to go out while your hair is like this, you can wrap a scarf around the plastic wrap to cover it. Henna generally takes between two and four hours to set. The longer you leave it on, the deeper and more vibrant the color will be. You can encourage color development by keeping the henna warm. Stay inside if it’s cold out, or wear a hat if you must go out. You can leave the henna on for as long as six hours if you want to achieve maximum vibrancy. When the henna has had enough time to set, put your gloves back on and remove the plastic wrap. Hop in the shower and thoroughly rinse the henna paste from your hair. Rub conditioner into your hair to help loosen the paste. Continue conditioning and rinsing until the water runs clear and there's no paste left in your hair. Henna takes about 48 hours to develop properly. When your hair first dries, it will look very bright and orange. Over the next couple of days, the color will deepen and become less orange. Henna is a permanent dye, so you don’t have to worry about the color washing out or fading over time. You can reapply to achieve a deeper and more vibrant color, or just apply more paste to your roots as they grow out. When touching up roots, leave the henna on for the same amount of time as the original application to achieve a similar color.
A: Wrap plastic wrap around your hair. Keep the henna warm and let it set. Rinse with conditioner. Wait a few days for the color to develop. Touch up roots as they grow out.

Q: Make sure that the room you’re working in is well-ventilated. Open all windows and doors in the room. In addition, open windows elsewhere in your house and turn on the air conditioning to encourage cross-ventilation.  Make sure the room is not very humid or moist. By ventilating the room, you'll help the mattress dry after you use cleaners on it and will allow bad smells and chemical smells to dissipate. Before you take any steps to clean the mattress, you must remove everything from the mattress that is not part of it. This is important, as dirt, grime, and bad scents can accumulate on sheets, mattress liners, mattress protectors, and other things we commonly put on top of our mattresses.  Carefully fold your sheets up as you remove them so more dust or dirt does not fall on to the mattress. Remove any mattress protectors you may have covered it with. Take off any pieces of fabric that can be detached. Perhaps the most important way to prepare your mattress is to vacuum it completely. Without vacuuming it properly, there will be a lot of dirt and debris left on the mattress – undermining your effort to clean it.  Use an upholstery attachment with your vacuum. Systematically go back-and-forth width-wise on the mattress until you vacuum the whole thing. Use the crevice attachment to vacuum hard-to-reach places like crevices, indentations, and embroidery. Flip the mattress and vacuum the other side.
A: Ventilate the room. Strip the sheets and bedding. Vacuum the mattress.

Q: Putty sealers typically get molded around the base of the mold to seal the hole. They’re usually pressed into a disk and stuck to the bottom of the mold. Removing this kind of sealer is as simple as peeling it off, much like sticky tack. Magnetic mold sealers are simple metal sheets that are magnetically charged. They snap onto the bottom of a mold to prevent wax from leaking out. Removing these is as simple as pulling them off. If you’re using plastic or aluminium molds, you’re likely not using a magnetic mold sealer. Rubber mold plugs are shaped somewhat like a spinning top; they have a large base and a tapered tip. Usually they just squeeze into the hole at the bottom of a candle mold. That means removing them is as simple as grabbing the base and pulling them out. With rubber molds, the wick may be wrapped around a wick bar at the bottom of the mold. If so, you’ll need to unwrap the wick before you can remove the candle.
A: Peel off putty type sealers. Snap off magnetic mold sealers. Pull out rubber mold plugs.

Q: This first rectangle will be the frame of your house. The exact proportions of the rectangle don’t matter, but try not to make it too long and thin or your house might not look realistic. Use a ruler or straightedge to draw the rectangle so all of the lines are neat and straight. The base of the triangle should line up with the top of the rectangle. Make the triangle wide enough that the bottom corners extend past the sides of the rectangle. The triangle should be around the same height as the rectangle. If you make it too tall it won’t look realistic. To make the chimney, draw a tall, narrow rectangle that extends up off the left side of the roof. Then, draw a smaller, horizontal rectangle on top of it. To make the roof panels, draw evenly-spaced horizontal lines from one side of the roof to the other. The number of panels you draw doesn’t matter, but try to keep the space between each panel the same.
A:
Draw a rectangle. Sketch a triangle on top of the rectangle to make the roof. Add a chimney and some horizontal panels to the roof.