Article: The color of the paint that you choose is up to you. It’s common to paint interior window trim white, although some people choose to match the trim to the color of the wall, or to paint the trim a contrasting color to draw attention. For example, if you have white walls, you could paint your trim red for a splash of color. Don’t be afraid to ask the sales staff at your local paint store for help. They’ll be able to advise you as to the exact color of paint that you should purchase, and can help you choose between brands of paint. Acrylic paints are the most common variety of paint used for indoor painting, and should be used on your trim. Older, solvent based paints should be avoided; these are less environmentally friendly, and give off less noxious fumes before they dry. Acrylic paints are durable and can be easily cleaned.  When determining the amount of paint you’ll need to cover your interior window trim, you can use one of many “paint calculators” online. You can also provide an estimate yourself by measuring the area of your indoor trim. One gallon of paint covers about 350 square feet (32.5 square meters).  The staff at your local paint store can also help you estimate how much paint to buy. These are the most popular finishes for interior woodwork painting, and will look good in any type of lighting and on any type of interior wood. A semi-gloss or satin (low-gloss) paint will also help your trim stand out against the surrounding walls, and should be relatively easy to keep clean. Although a high-gloss paint will catch your (and your guest’s) eye, it will only look good on high quality and extremely smooth wood. Unless you’re planning to hire a professional painter for the job, avoid using a high-gloss paint. A paint-supply store should sell a variety of paintbrushes (and rollers), but for painting window trim, a stiff angled brush will be the most useful tool. The 1.5–2-inch (3.8–5 cm) width should be a good fit for most window trim, and the stiffness of the bristles will prevent them from splaying while in use, and will allow for precise painting. If you’re unsure if this particular brush will suit your trim, or have questions about painting brushes in general, ask the sales staff.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Decide on a paint color and amount for your interior trim. Purchase an acrylic paint. Choose semi-gloss or satin finish paint. Purchase a 1.5–2-inch stiff angled brush.
Article: Take the cuttings during the warm growing season, or roots may fail to form. Cuttings have the best chance to become established if you cut them early in springtime, but if you want additional flowers, you may wait until early or mid summer, then take the cuttings after the plant has bloomed. Waiting later than mid summer is not recommended unless you live in an area with late or no frosts, as the plant needs at least six weeks to grow roots before the ground freezes. "Nodes" are the clumps on a branch from which a cluster of leaves sprout. Select a young branch, low on the plant, with at least two nodes. There are two different methods of selecting a branch:   Softwood cuttings use only soft, new-growth material from this year, that has not yet become brown and woody. These cuttings will grow fastest, but are only usable if the soft material is at least 5 in. (12 cm) long, and includes at least two leafy nodes.   Hardwood cuttings include woody, brown stem material, but must also have at least an inch or two (2.5–5 cm) of soft, new growth at the tip. These require a root stimulator to encourage root growth, available at a gardening store. A root stimulator is necessary for growing hardwood cuttings. It is optional for softwood cuttings, since the young stem will grow roots without it. A root stimulator may be useful for a softwood cutting if you removed it from the mother plant late, less than six weeks before the first expected frost. Check the label and ingredients of a root stimulator before purchasing. Select a root stimulator that contains a root hormone, not just fertilizer and vitamin B1. Prepare a seed starting tray or small flowerpots to place the cuttings in for the first few weeks after cutting. Because plants without roots are sensitive to both drought and excessive moisture, use a special mix of 50% organic compost and 50% perlite to retain water at the correct level. Similar mixes sold at gardening stores can be used as well, such as a mix of sphagnum moss and perlite. Terra cotta flowerpots are preferable to plastic ones due to their "breathability," especially if you soak the flowerpot in water overnight before continuing to the next step below. Sharpen and clean a knife if necessary, to prepare for a tidy cut with low chance of infection. Slice off the selected branch just below a leafy node, removing a cutting at least 5 in. (13 cm) long, including at least two leafy nodes. The longer the cutting is, and the more nodes it has, the more likely it is to be successful. Using scissors is not recommended, as they may pinch the stem and make it more difficult for roots to emerge. Leave the top cluster of leaves alone, as they will provide energy for the new plant. Use your knife to cut all other leaves off the plant, so it directs its energy at root development rather than excessive foliage growth. Be careful not to damage the bark while removing the leaves. Follow the instructions on the label of the root stimulator to dilute it to the correct strength, if your root stimulator is concentrated or in powdered form. Dip the bottom ¾ inch (2 cm) of the cutting, at the cut end, into the prepared root stimulator solution. Plant the cuttings in the containers you prepared earlier, just deep enough to keep them steady. Give them a generous quantity of water immediately after planting, relative to the small size of the container. Overwatering is a common mistake for new lavender cuttings. After the initial soaking, only water the cuttings when the soil begins to dry out, not when the soil is still moist. Shade will help minimize damage from the stress of transplanting for the first several days, but after this the plant can be moved incrementally to brighter environments. Greenhouse environments may be too damp for lavender cuttings. However, if the cutting is looking limp or dry after one or two days, moving it to a greenhouse or under a plastic bag may help it retain moisture until it develops roots. After at least three weeks, and more commonly six weeks or more, strong roots will have developed in the small pot or starting tray. Once the roots have bound the soil together in the container, you can move this soil and the lavender plant into a larger flowerpot or flower bed. Plant in rich, well-draining soil and care for it as you would any lavender plant.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Begin in spring or summer. Select a branch with at least two leafy nodes. Acquire a root stimulator (optional with the softwood method). Prepare small pots or a starting tray of special soil. Cut the branch with a sharp, clean knife. Cut off all but the top cluster of leaves. Dip the base of the cutting in a root stimulator (optional with the softwood method). Plant the cuttings in the prepared containers, and water thoroughly. Keep damp and shaded, but gradually expose to less water and more sun. Transplant into a larger pot or the ground once roots develop.