In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Before attempting any double-spins or pirouettes of any kind, it's important to get loosened up to avoid injury. Warm up your neck, shoulders, arms, back, sides, and legs before dancing with a long stretching routine. A nimble, loose neck will aid your equilibrium and balance when spotting and spinning. A loose torso will help you stay grounded and centered.  Warmed up legs will provide the necessary support you need and reduce the possibility of cramping. The most important three body parts for a good turn are your neck, shoulders, and legs. This side of your body will be referred to as your "spin" foot, and the corresponding leg, arm, and side will also be referred to as the "spin" side. The other side of your body will be referred to as your "lift" side. Begin standing with your spin foot in front of your lift foot, in a wide, balanced position, with most of your weight on your spin foot.  Place your spin arm at chest-height in front of you, with relaxed, bent elbow, so your spin forearm is parallel with your stomach. Your lift arm should be extended directly out from your side, in line with your torso, not too far back or too far forward. The lift arm will provide the majority of your spinning power by swinging it in front of your body. This is your spot point. Keep your eyes fixed on this spot throughout the entire motion.  Practice spotting by stepping slowly in a circular motion in one spot. Keep your eyes on one spot at eye level, on the wall or landscape directly in front of you. Keep your eyes there until your turning motion forces you to spin your head. If your head is level, the spotting motion will keep you from becoming overly dizzy or losing balance.  Even with proper spotting, a slight dizzy feeling can be expected during a double spin. Minimize this by keeping your neck and shoulders loose, and turning your head in a full circle as quickly as possible. The faster your body spins, the easier it is to spot properly.
Summary: Warm up. Choose which foot you will be spinning on. Place your feet and hands properly. Find a spot directly in front of you at eye level.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Improving your dog’s overall nutrition will help their general health whether or not your dog is allergic to food. If you feed processed foods, look at the ingredient list on your dog’s food. Check to make sure that protein is the first ingredient, not a carbohydrate. Essential fatty acids are good for healthy skin and coat and should be included on the ingredient list., Fatty acid supplements such as fish oil, coconut oil or flaxseed oil are helpful with allergic skin disease cases. These are best fed in their pure form (fresh or tinned fish, freshly ground flax seeds), but are also available as capsules or liquids.,  Follow the product directions or your veterinarian’s instructions for dosage information. If a food allergy is suspected, your veterinarian may suggest a food elimination trial with a completely new and different diet for your pet. This new diet will need to consist of ingredients your dog has never eaten before.  For example, if your pet has been eating lamb and rice dog food with treats made of beef and wheat, the new diet cannot contain any of those ingredients. The food elimination trial will typically last for 2-3 months. You need to adhere to the strict diet (including treats) in order to get the best information from your experiment. It may take a few rounds of this food elimination diet to determine which foods your dog is sensitive to. You may be able to get your dog’s food at a pet store, but often a special diet from your veterinarian may be needed to manage a pet’s food allergy.  Once a diet has been found, then you can start challenging the body with small amounts of one ingredient at a time to see if your dog starts itching again after introducing the additional ingredient.
Summary: Evaluate your dog’s current diet. Try giving fatty acid supplements. Ask your vet about a food elimination trial.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: If you are making your own starter shingles, cut the tabs off for the "starter course" (bottom row) of shingles. To prepare the tabs and lay the starter course, shorten the first starter shingle by 6 inches (or about a half of one tab). Place the glue strip at and all along the drip edge, and the rake edges as well. You will shingle over this starter course, so the bottom course will be double thickness.  Instead of cutting off all three tabs, you can also reverse the shingles for a starter course, so that the entire shingle with tabs turned upward are under your first course of shingles. With either method, putting the solid edge at the drip edge and cutting 6 inches off the length of first starter shingle prevents the slots between the tabs from lining up with the first regular course laid over the starter, thus not to expose the asphalt roofing paper through the slots of that bottom row. Nail the shingles with no tabs, such as precut Pro-Start shingles, and apply asphalt cement from a caulk gun in many dots along the drip edge under the edge, then press the tab-less shingles down onto the line of asphalt cement dots with adequate spaces between the dots. A continuous bead of asphalt could trap condensation or windblown water under the roofing at some point. To make sure you've got the right sizes to lay courses correctly, cut several sizes of shingles from the three-tab variety you purchased. Cut off one-half tab-width of the first tab to start the first course. Each cut is needed to shift the slots of the shingles on the course of shingles a 1/2 tab from aligning with the slots in shingles above and below. Keep all scrap, especially any single tabs for use on the ridge cap shingles. Make the following cuts:  Cut a half tab off for your first course shingles, Cut off a full tab for your second course shingles Cut one and a half tabs off of your third course shingles, Cut two tabs off your fourth course shingles For your fifth course, cut off half of the final tab Keep your sixth course tabs intact Nail the "cut off shingle" into place, about 6 inches from its lower edge. Hammer in one nail about 2 inches from each end of each shingle and another nail about 1 inch above each cutout. Make sure to keep nails out of the tar strip as you work. The next shingles above should cover the nails by about 1 inch vertically. Horizontally, end nails will be covered by up to about 1/2 of a tab, of the shingle(s) above. Be sure that these nails will hold the top edge of the course of shingles immediately below. Repeat this basic pattern, alternating shingles across the roof, working toward the right side, using the chalk line to keep the shingles straight horizontally. Use 4 nails per shingle and 6 nails on the prevailing windward sides of the roof, as wind resistance nailing. Some local codes require the 6 nails on all sides. You can let the excess extend off the side end of the roof and trim it down after it is nailed on, if you like. Continue this process to the 5th row, then begin the same process as the first row beginning with a full shingle, and a chalk mark. Repeat all of the way to the ridge. If it is a hip roof, allow about a tab width to overhang onto the next section of roof at the hip to help strengthen the joint there.
Summary:
Cut your starter-course shingles if necessary. Cut five different lengths for staggering slots. Start laying courses. Butt a full shingle up against the cut shingle and nail into place. Cut the last shingle to the size you need when you reach the end of the row.