Article: Depending on the age of the house you're working in, the drywall will either be nailed or screwed into the studs. To remove drywall that's nailed in, you'll simply start prying up the sections of drywall, piece by piece. If, on the other hand, the drywall is screwed in, you might need to take a bit more time to remove the screws before you start prying it loose. Screws that are bedded in joint compound can be very difficult to locate and remove.  Drywall screws can sometimes be removed with a Philips-head screwdriver, but depending on the condition of the wall, this may be more hassle than it's worth. Look at the screws and the condition of the drywall itself. If they're easy to remove, go ahead and remove them. It'll mean less elbow grease down the road. If the drywall is wet, or if the screws are mangled, rusted, or otherwise difficult to remove, go ahead and start prying the drywall loose as if they were simply nailed in. Standard drywall installation is done using 4x8 ft panels. Those are usually mounted horizontally with staggered joints, with two sections used to cover a standard 8 feet (2.4 m). section of wall. These will be fastened into the vertical wooden studs, centered at 16 or 24 inch (40.6 or 61.0 cm) intervals. For unsoiled drywall, use a pry bar to begin prying the bottom of the panel away from these studs, allowing removal of the entire sheet. Pushing the short end of the flat bar up under the bottom of the panel allows for using the long end as a lever, making the initial prying easy. Identify a section of wall roughly 2 feet (0.6 m) above the ground and 8 inches (20.3 cm) from the end of the wall, making note to avoid electrical outlets. Using a hammer claw, make a foot long vertical series of holes. Basically, what you want to do is open up some space to grab hold of the drywall and pull it loose. It's not rocket-science: knock some holes in at the side and give yourself something to hang onto. Grab at the upper and lower holes you've cut and pull a large chunk of drywall off the nails on the nearby stud. Keep moving along the wall, pulling chunks loose as you go. When the drywall breaks on a stud, make another vertical hole in adjacent gap and continue removing the drywall by hand. For water-damaged drywall, a good strategy is to open a hole at the midpoint of the 14.5 inch (36.8 cm) space between studs. Using a sledge or a battering ram of some kind can usually be effective in this circumstance. If the water-damage extends to the upper panel, the same action will usually cleanly separate the wall from the ceiling. Use the flatbar to pry loose any nails remaining on the studs, or take care to unscrew the screws remaining in the wood. A pry bar or a hammer claw should be fine for the job.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Look for drywall screws. Start at the bottom of undamaged drywall. Continue prying the side of the section loose. Pull a section loose. Start in the center of water-damaged drywall. Remove the drywall nails left on the studs.

Problem: Article: Empty out the contents and set them aside. Wash the insides of the cabinet using the soap solution and a sponge, and dry off the soap and water with a towel. Place some oil soap in a container and dilute it with warm water. Then, test the oil soap on an inconspicuous part of the cabinet's surface to make sure that it does not harm the finish. The sponge should have both a soft side and a scouring side for best results. If you have a layer of grease or other material that is stuck to the surface, then scrub the material with the scouring side of your sponge.  Doing this will remove any moisture or residue. Oil soap will eliminate your wax finish, so you should apply furniture wax or furniture polish to restore the cabinets' shine.
Summary: Open the cabinet doors. Mix some mild soap and water together in a small bucket. Close the cabinet doors. Dip a sponge into the oil soap. Wipe the surface of the cabinets with the sponge. Rinse your sponge frequently so that you don't reapply dirt that you've already removed. Dry the cabinets with a clean, lint-free cloth after cleaning them. Reapply wax finish if desired. Return the contents of your cabinets to their original location.

The only sure way to get a cape for your character is by attending a MineCon event, which only happens once per year. If you can't attend MineCon, you can try using a mod to get a cape for your character. The email address that you use to sign up for MineCon is the email address to which your cape's link will be sent, so make sure that you use the correct email. When you attend MineCon, your ticket will be scanned. This allows Mojang to track your attendance and send a link to your registered email address. MineCon 2018 will be held in an online stream, meaning that it's technically free to view. For this reason, MineCon 2018's presentation might have a different method for confirming your attendance. Sometime during or after MineCon, you should receive an email from Mojang with a link to your cape. Click the link in the email from Mojang, then sign into your Minecraft account to add the cape to your character's model on your computer. When you're wearing it, anyone with whom you're playing multiplayer will be able to see the cape. Besides MineCon capes, the only other players to receive capes have been a select few that have been heavily involved in the development and community aspects of Minecraft. Obtaining a cape in this way isn't really feasible due to the sheer number of people who help out with Minecraft's development and community. To do so:  Go to https://minecraft.net/en-us/profile/  Log into your profile. Click the character model drop-down menu. Click the cape version of your preferred character model.
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One-sentence summary --
Find an upcoming official Minecraft event. Use your Minecraft email address to sign up for MineCon. Make sure that your MineCon ticket gets scanned. Check your email inbox for a cape redeem link. Redeem your cape. Get involved in Minecraft development. Enable your cape if you have one.