They should be less than two years old, from a reputable source, and suitable for your growing region. You'll have better luck with seeds that came from plants local to your area - they'll like the environment, soil, and other conditions you can provide. Buy your seeds at a local nursery, a farmer's market, or an online vendor that sells seeds for different growing regions. Try checking to see if there is a seed swap in your area. You can meet other gardeners, get seeds, and get tips for germinating specific types of seeds in your area. Some seeds need to germinate indoors several weeks before the weather gets warm, while others need only a few days' time. The time you need to start your seeds also differs by growing region. Getting the timing right is important if you want to give your seeds the best chance to grow into strong, healthy plants.  Check the back of the packet your seeds came in for instructions on when they should be started. Seed packets come with a lot of vital information. You can also look online for more info about when to start your seeds. If you're still not sure when to start your seeds, plant to start them a few weeks before the last frost of the season. You can start growing them indoors and let them sprout a few inches high before transplanting them outside. This is a safe bet for many types of plants. Seeds need to germinate in a growing medium that's usually different from standard potting soil or dirt. They require a certain soil texture to germinate, and it's different for different seeds. Research the needs of the seeds you're growing and get the appropriate growing medium from a nursery or online vendor.  You can buy a soilless growing medium that's premixed, and it works for many types of seeds.  It's cheap to make your own growing medium from vermiculite, perlite, and milled sphagnum moss, all available at garden stores. A ration of 1:1:1 is usually effective. Don't try to plant seeds in regular soil. Seeds already contain all the nutrients they need to germinate within them. The extra nutrients in regular potting soil are detrimental during the germination period. You'll need a container that's 2 or 3 inches (5.1 or 7.6 cm) deep with drainage holes in the bottom. It can be shaped like an open tray or have individual segments for different seeds. The width of your container depends on how many seeds you're planting; make sure you allow plenty of space for the seeds to germinate.  You can buy a seed pallet or tray, but it's just as easy to make your own out of an old egg carton,  newspaper, a wooden box, or other household supplies. When the seeds germinate and sprout, the seedlings will need to be moved to larger containers or planted in the ground. For this reason the aesthetics of the seed germination containers aren't as important as their utility.

Summary: Start with good seeds. Plan to start them at the right time. Get the right growing medium. Choose a seed container.


If you can find chalk powder this is ideal, otherwise just buy a piece of chalk. If you use a piece of chalk you will need to use a knife to shave it into a powder.  The paintbrush should be soft-bristled and of an appropriate size to dust the oil spot you want to remove with the chalk powder. White chalk powder works well to absorb grease and oil. Try to flatten out any folds, wrinkles, and ridges from the piece of paper. Take extra care to make sure that the part of the paper with the oil spot is as flat as possible. It’s important to start working to remove an oil stain from paper as soon as possible so that it doesn’t have time to completely dry and set. Dip your paintbrush into the powder you are using and brush it onto the oil spot. The chalk will pull some of the oil stain out of the paper. Be careful as you move the paper and try not to disturb the chalk on top of the oil spot. If you knock any of the powder off of the oil stain, lift up the top piece of paper and carefully brush some more of the chalk onto the spot. You can lay one piece of clean paper next to the paper you are cleaning, slide it carefully over, and then lay another clean sheet on top. Make sure it is covering the oil spot. Remove the iron after 5 seconds and check the oil stain, it will be lighter or possibly completely gone. Repeat the process as needed to continue to lift the stain.  Test the warm iron on a blank piece of paper first to make sure that it does not burn so that you don’t destroy the piece of paper you are trying to save. If it is too hot, lower the setting and test it again. Depending on how set-in the stain is, this method may not completely remove it, but it will get rid of some of it.

Summary: Get white chalk and a small paintbrush at an art supply store. Lay out the paper on a hard, flat surface and smooth it out. Use the paintbrush to dust the oil spot with the chalk powder. Sandwich the paper between two clean pieces of white paper. Warm up an iron on low heat and place it on top of the paper for 5 seconds.


This is the first step to building your dip pen.  The nib holder is the main stem of the pen.  They are molded in a sweeping shape and are thinner at the top then the swollen area where you will hold it.  It comes in different materials like cork, wood and plastic, as well as straight or oblique.  You will want to start with a straight nib holder and maybe move on to the oblique holder when you start experimenting with different angles and scripts. Most nib holder are plastic or wood.  This comes down to a matter of preference.  Pick them up and play with them.  Some will be heavier or wider.  Choose whichever is most comfortable for you. Nibs are the metal writing apparatus at the end of the pen.  They come in different shapes, sizes and levels of flexibility.  The mount on the nib, where it attaches to the nib holder, also varies.  Be sure that the nib you choose is compatible with your holder.  The easiest shape to begin with is the italic nib.  This has a single, blunt edge and limited flexibility.  This will help you create a more consistent line. Choose a nib with a mid-range tip size.  Avoid one which is too thin or too thick. The italic nib should not have much flexibility.  Flexibility is more suited to point nibs which have two tines that separate with added pressure. As you may guess, ink comes in different colors, but they also come in waterproof and not waterproof, and pigment or dye-based, transparent and opaque and various levels of "lightfastness."  Before you get too overwhelmed, know that dip pens will work with all of these and the choice is largely a matter of preference.  Start with a black ink. For your first ink, try something with a decent flow.  Pelican 4001 is water-soluble and easy to use.  Higgens Calligraphy Ink is waterproof and free-flowing. It is best to start with a calligraphy practice pad.  This paper will be thick enough that the ink won’t bleed.  It should be lined to assist you in creating consistent letters. This will be used to clean your nib periodically.  It will become ink stained, so make sure that you use a cup which will be dedicated as your drawing water cup from now on.
Summary: Start with a nib holder. Collect some nibs. Choose your ink. Find the perfect paper. Fill a cup with water.