INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Take a few minutes to become familiar with how the applicator works. There are many different models, but most are not difficult to figure out by following the instructions. Check for the following:  Identify the syringe or barrel where you load the resin, and the cap or O-ring to close it. Find the dial or bolt used to adjust pressure, moving the applicator into or away from the windshield. Check the instructions for how to operate the applicator. A syringe applicator has a simple piston, but some bridge applicators may have a unique mechanism. This is the step with the greatest risk of causing further damage to the windshield. Fortunately, this is only necessary if repairing a long crack that does not end in a circular or semicircular hole, or if filling a small "star break" with no piece of glass missing.  To tap the hole, place a bullseye tapper (or a sturdy needle) on the star crack or the end of a crack. Tap it gently with the suction cup removal tool (or any hard object) until a small hole pops out.  In some cases, you'll need to drill into the hole before tapping. For home repairs, never drill more than ¼ of the way through the glass. It may be wiser to hire a professional instead if you can't tap the hole without a drill. Most repair kits come with two types of resin. One is meant to fill cracks, and the other to fill chips. Load the applicator with the resin needed for your repairs, according to kit instructions. In most cases, you'll only need a few drops of resin. Cover the suction cups with a thick layer of lubricant, so they can glide across the windshield. Position the suction cups so the applicator tip is over the hole at the end of the crack. Tighten until it presses gently against the glass.  If your kit didn't come with lubricant, try petroleum jelly (Vaseline). If you are using a syringe applicator with no suction cups, just hold it against the end of the crack. Move the applicator along the first 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm) of the crack. Apply resin according to your model's instructions. Typically, this involves drawing back air with a piston or other vacuum mechanism, then letting go to push the resin into the crack. Slide back and forth over the crack, making sure the resin is going in. If the resin won't reach inside the crack, flex the glass gently with your thumb as you apply. This should only be necessary to get it started. Move the applicator over the length of the crack. Once you are sure the resin is entering the crack, you should be able to seal the crack in one slow movement. Note that the crack will still be visible at this point. Load the applicator with pit fill, or whichever type of resin your kit includes for filling dents. If using a bridge applicator, lightly lubricate the suction cups so they stick firmly to the glass. Position the applicator tip over the chip, and use the vacuum/pressure system until the resin fills the dent completely.  Syringe applicator kits usually come with a separate suction cup to be placed over the dent, with a hole for the syringe to slot into.  Remember, star-shaped breaks with no glass missing need to have a bullseye crack tapped out first. Clean out the applicator first if it contains a different type of resin. This is also called curing strips or curing tabs when sold in different sizes. This holds the resin in place during curing, preventing it from oozing back out of the crack or pit.  You may need a suction cup removal tool or a razor blade to remove the applicator. Never use plastic wrap or other substances not specifically meant for this purpose. Some of these block UV light, and therefore stall the curing process indefinitely. Leave the repaired areas in full sunlight or under an ultraviolet light until cured. This can take anywhere from 30 to 120 minutes, depending on the brand and the strength of the ultraviolet lamp or sunlight conditions. Check the instructions for your product, and err on the side of a longer wait time. Driving or opening car doors before the resin is fully cured increases the chance of lengthening cracks. Remove the curing strips. Scrape the resin along the windshield surface using a razor blade. Remove excess resin until the windshield is smooth. If the windshield is blurry or the crack is still visible enough to interfere with driving, you may need to cure it again with a special refinishing resin. Wipe clean with a glass cleaner once you're done. Fit the razor blade in a sturdy razor blade holder to prevent injury.

SUMMARY: Set up the applicator. Tap a small hole if necessary. Load the resin into the applicator. Position the applicator to repair a crack. Apply the resin along the start of the crack. Seal the rest of the crack. Fill chips and dents with thicker resin. Cover all resin with curing tape. Let the resin cure. Scrape off excess resin.


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: If you want to make up a simple sleeve to keep a CD in that you can design by hand, all you need is a piece of paper, some glue, and some good folding. It's easy, if you've got a ruler or a CD for a guide. All you've got to do is:  Fold a sheet of US letter-sized, or A4 sized paper horizontally, leaving a 1-inch (2.5 cm) overlap. Fold in both sides approximately 1.75 inches (4.5 cm) inward. Open the paper flat and re-fold the two vertical side strips, then slide the CD into the pocket of the longer side, beneath the vertical side strips. Refold over the horizontal and fold in the 1-inch (2.5 cm) overlap to complete the square. Tuck the overlap into the remaining pocket and press flat. After you create the pocket, it's a good idea to secure it to make sure the CD will stay up and won't fall apart when you give it away to someone. Good options are usually staples, glue, or even just tape. Use the same method described in the previous section, using old pictures or drawings to decorate the outside of the CD case as normal. It's usually a good idea to remove the CD from the sleeve while you're doing this, so you don't have to worry about messing it up with glue or ink. One cool idea is actually designing the paper before you fold it, making the image wrap around the outside of the case. It can make the case look unique, if you don't know where the folds are going to be in each one. One little hack for securing your DIY CD cases is to take the pages from one of those old CD books people used to carry around in their cars, pre-iPods, and carefully cut the pockets out to use for security. You can even use these and just slip CD-sized track lists into the same pocket for a quick alternative.

SUMMARY:
Use plain paper to fold a sleeve. Secure the folds with staples or glue. Design the sleeves accordingly. Slip into a plastic slip case for protection.