INPUT ARTICLE: Article: After your flake is reduced so that it is about seven or eight times wider than it is thick (for a larger project), it's time to begin pressure flaking. Pressure flaking is achieved by placing your work into a fold of thick leather. Hold this in your hand, place a pointed tool (the pressure flaker) on the edge of the stone, and apply an inward pressure to the tool, focusing energy toward the inner area of the flake, usually at a more severe angle of about 45º. You don't want to drive the tool directly toward the center, or it could shatter. The goal is to apply pressure until the tool removes a small, thin piece from the stone, leaving a shallow scalloped shape behind.  Remember, you are working from the edge inward. This is the opposite direction of the force you used in direct percussion. Never push down on a concave portion of the edge, or the piece could break. You may need to skip some areas or guide the pressure flaker around it from both directions in order to shape that section to a more usable area. If your pressure flaker is long enough, rest it against your hip for more leverage. Let your other hand, holding the flake, rest against the inside of your leg. Try not to flex the elbow of the hand holding the flake; rather, use the inside of the leg for stability, with a little extra strength from the wrist. Hold the pressure flaker just above center, and the wood will flex and push down into the flake for you. Apply pressure to the lower side of the flake, not the upper.  The slower and longer you apply pressure, the longer your flakes will be. Do not bend either wrist while knapping. Now that you're down to the main flake or "preform," take off additional, smaller flakes using the pressure flaking method. Make a flake, flip the preform over, then make another flake along the same edge, but on the opposite face. This lets you inspect each flake after you make it, and make adjustments for irregularities or mistakes. The end result should be a "bifacial edge" with a row of scalloped marks on each side.  For this first pass, remove short flakes with relatively fast pressure. Most beginners find it easier to make short flakes than long, so this shouldn't be an issue. This is the longest, most difficult part of a flint knapping project. Take it slow, and accept that you may break a few flakes while learning. Never make two flakes in the same place without abrading in between, just as described in the abrasion step above. The closer you get to the finished product, the less heavily you will have to abrade, as you are working towards the final product of a delicate, razor sharp edge and point. The copper or antler tip will wear down quickly, so sharpen it several times during the creation of a single tool, using a knife or a stone to scrape the edge. Many knappers pound the copper tip flat to a thin chisel shape to sharpen it and change the behavior of the tool slightly. You can try it at this point to see if you prefer the chisel to the point tip. After abrading, repeat the same pressure flaking process. On the next few circles, try to use slower, more prolonged pressure to create longer flakes, in order to thin the tool right up to the raised convex center. Remember to abrade after each full circle. Once the final shape is complete, which may require some focused attention on certain areas, do a final run of pressure flaking. For most tools, you do not abrade the edge after you finish, leaving it sharp for use as a cutting or piercing tool.  Most commonly, you would use longer flakes near one end to taper it gradually to an arrow or spear point, while the other end is shaped through smaller flakes into the wider base. Experienced knappers can make long flakes quite quickly, but it takes a lot of practice to get to that point. One of them recommends pointing the pressure flaker at the opposite edge (away from your hand), quickly building up to maximum pressure, then rotating the hand holding the preform slightly until the flake pops off. You may put the finishing touches on a point by notching the base or forming a stem at the base. This is a difficult skill to learn, and many beginners break their first tool or severely alter the shape. Still, if you plan on tying the tool to an arrowhead or handle, this is a necessary step. Hold your finished tool flat and press the tool at a steep angle and high pressure through the entire tool. Flip the tool over and repeat to extend the notch, then use gentler pressure to trim it flat.  While you can use your pressure flaker, a flattened steel nail in a wooden handle makes a better notching tool, as the harder metal focuses the energy to a smaller area. Grind the inner edge of the notch before tying it onto anything, to prevent it cutting the string.

SUMMARY: Understand pressure flaking. Learn how to hold the pressure flaker. Pressure flake around the entire edge of the flake. Abrade the edge. Sharpen your pressure flaker periodically. Repeat until you reach the desired shape. Make a notch or stem (optional).


INPUT ARTICLE: Article: In addition to general cleaning, you can keep your epoxy floors in good shape by doing a deep cleaning about once every few months. In order to accomplish this, you may need to move some vehicles, tools, or other items out of your way. You have two good options to choose from: the first is a non-toxic, biodegradable cleanser (like Simple Green), and the second is ammonia. When prepared with the right amount of water, both of these cleansers are safe and effective for epoxy floors.  Mix 1⁄2 cup (120 ml) of Simple Green with 1 gallon (3.8 L) of hot water. If you make an over-concentrated solution, it can leave a film on your floor. Mix 1⁄2 cup (120 ml) of ammonia with 1 gallon (3.8 L) of hot water. ard foam mop. Create a bucket of cleaning solution, as well as a bucket of plain hot water. Submerge your hard foam mop into your cleaning solution, ring it out, and then move it over your floor. Fill a bucket with clean warm water. Using your hard foam mop, go back over the floor with water in order to rinse off any detergent. When you're finished, dry the floor with a soft towel.

SUMMARY:
Perform a deep cleaning every three months. Choose a cleaning solution.  with a hard foam mop. Rinse the floor.