Sketch a small circle, then draw a long, slightly curved line extending down from the 5-o'clock position of the circle.  The circle will become the bud of the lily and the line will become the stem. Connect the line directly to the outline of the circle and make it roughly five to seven times longer than the circle diameter. Draw seven short, slightly curved lines extending outward from the center of the circle.  These lines will set the direction of the lily petals. The curve of each line should open slightly downward. The lines do not need to be even in size, but they should range from one-fourth to one-half the size of the stem. Note that the lines pointing opposite the stem should be longer than those directly next to it. The lines do not need to be symmetrical, either, but they should be spaced apart at relatively even intervals. Draw an outline around each petal line, allowing the contours to meet and overlap near the center of the flower.  These contours will become the petals. Center the petal line within each contour, keeping an even amount of space on either side of each line. Note that the amount of space between center lines and contours may vary from petal to petal. The contours should touch without intersecting one another. If you do cross some of the contours, you'll need to erase the intersecting segment later. Erase the initial petal lines, leaving the contours in place. Correct the petal contours as needed to make each one look more realistic.  Some contours may not need any adjustments, while others will. In particular, you should try to narrow the tips of the contours to prevent them from looking like perfect ovals. Add detail to the stem during this step, as well. Make the bend appear sharper, and draw a parallel line to one side of the original line to give the stem width. Sketch several leaves on both sides of the stem. You'll only need roughly five to eight.  Vary the direction and size of each leaf. Each should look like narrow, curved teardrops. Some should curve upward while others should curve downward. Do not draw the leaves in even pairs. Space them apart at random intervals. Draw the stamen in the center of the lily and lightly sketch line markings inside each petal.  The stamen will look like a cluster of short, narrow stems, and each stem should have a small rounded block at the tip. Place five to eight of these shapes within the center of the lily, making it no higher than the largest, most upright petal. For the petal lines, lightly sketch two to three lines in each petal that highlight the direction of the petal. these lines should only occupy part of the petal interior, though, and should not extend from the base to the tip. By this point, you should already have a completed lily form. You can add shading or colors to the picture to make it even more realistic.  To add shading, try to visualize which areas of the lily would receive direct light if it were real. Any area that would not get hit with light should be shaded, with the darkest areas being those hidden by other parts of the flower. If you want to add color, use lighter shades on the areas that would receive direct sunlight and darker shades on those that would be hidden in shadow.
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One-sentence summary -- Draw a circle attached to a line. Arrange seven short lines in the center of the circle. Surround the petal lines with contours. Flesh out the necessary lines. Add leaves to the stems. Create more detail within the blossom. Shade or color the lily as desired.


There are plenty of spray paints available that will work on a variety of surfaces. Look for canisters of primer and paint labeled “universal,” which can be used on metal, wood, plastic, and other finishes. These also tend to be easy to spray from any direction.  Some spray paint is labeled as a “paint and primer” in one. If you’re using an all-in-one product, simply skip the priming step and go straight to applying the first coat of paint. If you’re spraying a piece of outdoor furniture, be sure to select a spray paint that’s safe for outdoor use! Shake the primer for about 1 minute before removing the cap. Then, apply the primer using even side to side strokes until there’s a light coat on the material. Prime the bottom first, let it dry for 10-15 minutes, and then flip the item over and prime the sides and top.  Wait at least 1 hour for the primer to dry before moving on to sanding. If you have a set of drawers to paint, remember to prime and paint these separately. If you’re painting a dark-colored piece of furniture, it’s normal to see some of the original finish through the coat of primer. Once the primer has dried, shake the spray paint for at least 1 minute before removing the lid. Hold the canister about 12 inches (30 cm) away from the surface of the furniture, and spray with even up and down or side to side strokes with overlapping lines. Start by painting the bottom of the furniture, let it dry for 10-15 minutes, and then flip it over to paint the sides and top.  Keep the canister moving to avoid drips in the paint, and continue painting until all of the surfaces have an even coat. Remember to shake the canister intermittently while you’re applying the coat of paint to ensure that it stays mixed in the can. After applying the first coat, let the paint dry. Check the directions on the canister to see how long you should wait in between coats for the specific brand. If there isn’t a time listed, 2 hours is normally enough time for the paint to dry to the touch. If you’re also painting drawers, you can use this time to apply the first coat of paint to them.  If you’re unsure of whether the paint has dried, put on a pair of gloves and touch an inconspicuous area, like the back of the item. If it’s dry, none of the paint will stick to your finger. If there are drips in the paint once it’s dry, gently sand them by hand with 220-grit sandpaper to make the area smooth. Be sure to wipe down the area with a tack cloth before proceeding. For items like a coffee table or chair, it’s important to seal the paint to prevent knicks and scratches. Purchase a spray sealant and apply it evenly like you would a regular coat of paint. Wait 2 hours for the sealant to dry before adding another coat of paint on top of it.  If the furniture is going to be used less often, such as a decorative table or a bookshelf, you don’t have to use a sealant. You can safely use sealant with a textured or specialty finish since it’s applied in between coats and the finish will still appear on the topcoat. Shake the canister of paint for 1 minute and then apply another even coat using up and down and side to side motions. Be sure to cover hard-to-reach places, such as ledges and corners. Focus on getting more coverage on areas that were sparse on the first coat.  It’s easy to forget to paint the underside of a chair or other piece of furniture, so carefully tip the piece of furniture on its side to make sure there aren’t any bare surfaces! If you applied a sealant in between the coats of paint, you don’t need to add another after your second coat has dried. Store the painted furniture overnight in a well-ventilated room so the paint can cure. After a day, carefully reattach any hardware, insert drawers, and inspect the furniture to make sure there are no chips in the paint. If you reattach the hardware or move the furniture before the paint cures, it may crack or chip more easily. If the paint does chip, you may be able to fix the blemish. Spray some of the spray paint onto a paper plate, and use a paintbrush to apply a coat of paint to the blemish. Let it dry for 2-3 hours before applying a second coat to blend the paint.
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One-sentence summary --
Choose a universal spray paint and primer for a variety of surfaces. Spray the furniture all over with a coat of primer and let it dry completely. Apply a light coat of spray paint to the furniture using even strokes. Wait 2-3 hours for the spray paint to dry completely. Use spray polycrylic sealant between coats if the furniture will be used often. Add a second layer of spray paint to the furniture for more coverage. Let the paint cure for 24 hours before reattaching any hardware.