Q: Brush the cotton swab lightly across your tongue until the cotton feels damp but not saturated. Using your spit to clean a work of art might seem extremely odd, but museum curators and other professionals around the world have been using this method effectively and safely for centuries!  Saliva has enough enzymes to break down dirt and grime, but not so much that it will damage the paint. It’s best to use high-quality cotton swabs, since those tend to have the softest tips. Before wiping down the entire painting with a Q-tip, it’s best to do a spot test in one of the corners so you can make sure the saliva isn’t damaging the surface. Saliva is generally considered to be safe and effective, but it's best to be cautious. If any of the paint color shows up on the cotton swab, do not proceed. It’s best to work on 1 square inch of the surface at a time, so this technique can be very time-consuming. Don't move the cotton swab from side to side, though—swipe it up and down in small, light, dabbing motions. Simply moisten the other end by running it over your tongue and continue swiping. When that end gets dirty, discard the swab and grab a fresh one. Depending on the size of the painting and how dirty it is, you may go through many, many Q-tips before your task is complete! It’s important to switch to a fresh swab frequently to avoid swiping the painting's surface with a dirty tool.
A: Dampen the end of a cotton swab with your saliva. Swipe one of the corners first to gauge the painting’s reaction. Dab the moistened cotton swab over the painting in small sections. Switch to the clean end once the cotton swab starts to look grimy.

Q: If you’re dyeing an old candle, the easiest option is to simply reuse the original jar. However, almost any type of container will work, provided it’s heat-safe, has an open mouth, and is large enough to hold the melted wax. Metal cans, shot glasses, tea cups, and mason jars can all make great DIY candle molds.  Use gelatin molds or empty tea light holders to pour multiple miniature candles. To make free-standing candles with the wax exposed, try cutting the top off of a quart-sized milk carton. You can then tear the cardboard away once the wax has set. Take an uncut wick and tie one end around a wooden dowel or pencil. The opposite end should be just long enough to reach the bottom of the container. Set the dowel over the open mouth so that the wick is perfectly centered and hanging straight down.  A wooden clothespin or strip of tape can also make a decent wick holder in a pinch.  To create a double wick for a larger candle, simply tie a second wick 1.5–2 inches (3.8–5.1 cm) away from the first. It may take up to an hour for the wax to solidify completely. As it does, it will assume the shape of the surrounding container and you’ll have a brand new homemade candle in your favorite color. In the meantime, avoid touching the wax. Doing so could leave behind depressions, smudges, or other imperfections.  Be careful not to disturb the wick while the wax is setting up, as well. Placing the freshly-poured candle in the refrigerator or leaving it in another cool area may help speed up the hardening process. Untie or cut the wick from the dowel. Take a pair of scissors and snip the wick about 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) from the surface of the wax. Your new candle will then be ready to light and add a warm glow to any room! Clipping the wick too short may make the candle difficult to light, while leaving it too long will cause it to burn inefficiently.
A:
Select a container for the new candle. Position the wick in the empty mold. Allow the wax to set up. Trim the wick.