Write an article based on this "Prepare the peas for canning. Clean 9 glass pint (500mL) canning jars and metal lids with soap and hot water. Fill the clean jars with the washed peas leaving 1 inch (2. Wipe the rims of the jars with a clean cloth, shake gently to allow air bubbles to escape and cover with the metal lids. Place the cover securely on the canner and heat water to boiling. Process jars in the pressure canner for 40 minutes, adjusting the pressure based on your altitude (see guide below). Turn off heat and allow pressure to return to 0 PSI (0 kPa), then remove the weights or open the vent and wait for 2 minutes. Remove the jars from the canner with a jar lifter and place them on a wooden board or thick kitchen towel to allow them to cool in a draft free area. Label the jars with ingredients and the date, then store in a cool, dark and dry location."
article: Select ripe, bright green peas with young, tender, sweet seeds. Shell and wash the peas under cool running water, and discard or compost the pods. Keep the jars and lids hot until they are ready to be filled. Jars and lids can be kept hot by placing them upside down in a pot of hot water or by washing them in a dishwasher and keeping them in the dishwasher until needed. 5 cm) of space at the top of the jars. Add one tsp. (5 mL) of canning salt to each jar (optional), then fill jars with boiling water, while keeping 1 inch (2.5 cm) of air space at the top of the jars. Place the sealed jars on the rack in the pressure canner filled with 3 quarts (2.8 L) of hot water.  The jars must not sit directly on the bottom of the canner, and should not touch each other to allow steam to flow freely around them. Allow steam to vent from the canner for 10 minutes before adding canner weights or closing vents. After 10 minutes close vents or put on weights (depending on the type of pressure canner you are using) and allow the pressure to build. Start timing when the necessary pressure is reached. Check the gauge frequently to ensure the pressure remains constant.  For dial gauge canners, set pressure to 11 PSI (75.8 kPa) for altitudes of 0 to 2000 feet (0 to 610 m), 12 PSI (82.7 kPa) for altitudes of 2001 to 4000 feet (610 to 1220 m), 13 PSI (89.6 kPa) for altitudes of 4001 to 6000 feet (1220 to 1830 m), and 14 PSI (96.5 kPa) for 6001 to 8000 feet (1830 to 2440 m). For weighted gauge canners set pressure to 10 PSI (68.95 kPa) for altitudes of 0 to 1000 feet (0 to 305 m), and 15 PSI (103.4 kPa) for altitudes above 1,000 feet (304.8 m). Carefully remove lid and allow steam to escape. Keep 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of space between jars to allow air to circulate. Listen for a small “ping” sound indicating that the seal of the jar lids has been sucked down and the jars are properly sealed. This could take around 12 hours.

Write an article based on this "Experience a popping sensation. Identify the cause of the injury. Feel immediate pain. Take the temperature of your hand."
article: People who break knuckles often report feeling a popping or snapping sensation in their hand the moment the break occurs.  The snapping feeling can be caused by the actual breaking of the bone or pieces of the bone popping out of their original place.  If you feel this occur, it is a good idea to stop what you’re doing and examine your hand. The popping sensation isn’t always present when a knuckle is broken.  Whether or not you’ll experience a popping feeling depends on the severity of your fracture. A broken knuckle is often referred to as a “boxer’s fracture” because it occurs most often when a person punches a hard surface.  When your injury happened, were you punching a wall or some other immovable surface?  Maybe you were involved in a fist fight.  If you have been hitting something solid, there’s a good chance you may have broken your knuckle.  There are other possible ways to break your knuckle that are not as common.  You can break your knuckle while falling down, working with machines or doing any activity that exposes your hand to trauma. Some doctors now call a broken knuckle a “brawler’s fracture” instead of a “boxer’s fracture” because boxers prevent broken knuckles by wearing protective gear.  You’re more likely to break a knuckle hitting something with your bare fist. A broken knuckle will be accompanied with severe, immediate pain.  Right when the injury occurs, you will experience a sharp pang in your hand which will be followed by an intense throbbing feeling.  Depending on your body’s tolerance for pain, the feeling can be debilitating and force you to stop whatever you’re doing. If your knuckle only has a minor fracture, the pain may not be as severe.  However, you should still stop using your hand as you could further injure your knuckle. The moment you break your knuckle, the blood will start flowing towards the area of the fracture causing your hand to get hot.  Check the temperature in your injured hand and then your other hand.  If your injured hand feels much warmer than the other one, your knuckle could be broken.

Write an article based on this "Install cedar shims at the bottom of the frame. Mix small batches of mortar. Apply a small amount of mortar to the bottom of the frame. Tilt or slide the panel into position over the shims. Slide shims into the top of the window until it is snug. Pack the gaps at the bottom with mortar. Mortar the sides of the panel. Apply caulk to seal the top of the window."
article:
The shims will help hold the panel in place, and they will ensure an even placement of the panel in the space. The shims should be about 1/2” (1.27cm) wide and long enough to easily remove once the first round of mortar sets. Install the shims at 3” (7.62cm) intervals, moving away from the corners. You can mix batches about five or six trowel amounts at a time. It should ideally have a consistency close to bread dough, which will stop the panel from floating in the space as its sets. This should just be a thin layer between the shims to help form a base before placing the window. The panel will be heavy, so have assistance on hand to place the panel. Reset any shims that move while setting the panel. Assure the window is plumb and square before continuing. Use a trowel and pack the gaps around the shims at the bottom of the panel. Allow it to set, hard to the touch, before mortaring the sides. From inside, scrape away any clumps of mortar with your trowel. Assure that the mortar is firmly set before applying pressure to the window.  Slide all of your shims out and finish mortaring the gaps once the mortar has set. Allow the mortar to set for two hours and then smooth it out with a striking tool. Clean any excess mortar off the panel with a sponge while it is still wet. Applying mortar at the top gap of the window can produce downward pressure as it sets that can compress and crack the glass. Let the mortar set for a full twenty-hour hours, then fill the entire gap with 100% silicone caulking.