Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Extend your arms past your ears as you move into the air. Bring your knees to your chest as you jump. Place your hands on your shins as you do the tuck. Extend your legs above you vertically. Raise your arms and clasp your hands. Look at the water and dive in.

Answer: Once you are off the board, you will need to start creating momentum to start rotating backwards. Push your arms further back behind your head. This will arch your back, opening up your chest and pointing it towards the ceiling. This movement will start to rotate the body. If you focus carefully on what is in front of you, you should notice you are spinning because your view will be changing. As you ascend upwards to face the ceiling, bring your knees towards your chest. Keep your toes pointed and your back straight. If you keep proper form, you are more likely to execute the reverse dive. A common misconception about the tuck position is that your arms should be hugging your knees. In fact, your arms should be pulled in at the sides of your body. Place your hands over the mid-part of your shins. Allow the momentum of the turn to move you backwards. When your feet are above and you pointing toward the ceiling, let go of your shins. Begin to extend your legs upwards to point vertically. After you let go of your shins, circle your arms out over your head to hug your ears. Bring your hands together and clasp them. Keep your arms straight and tight with your head planted firmly between them.  “Circling out” your arms keeps them in balance and prevents the movement of your arms from disturbing your body position. Your arms should be in line with your body when you enter the water. Keep your head still but focus your eyes on the direction you are moving. When you see the surface of the water clearly, prepare to dive in. Close your eyes and keep your muscles tight and arms and legs fully extended as you enter.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Choose a building area on stable ground away from obstructions. Print out a blueprint for the shelter you want to make. Stake out and clear the building area for construction. Dig a trench and move the dirt out of the excavation area. Create an emergency exit at the far end of the trench. Make a second crawl-way for the entrance.

Answer: When a nuclear weapon detonates, it creates a thermal pulse which can set things 20 mi (32 km) away on fire. You can often build a shelter in your backyard if you can position it so that both rainwater and water behind dams runs away from it. You will also need to consider where the utility lines are in your area so you don’t disturb them.  Try to select stable ground where trees and buildings won’t fall on your shelter. If you’re in a city, you can build a reinforced shelter in a basement. The concrete can protect you from fallout and falling debris. Research the topography of your area. Your government’s local land survey office will have them available. Also, check with the emergency response office. Avoid positioning your shelter downhill from bodies of water or below steep slopes. Keep it clear of flammable buildings. Having a clear blueprint will help you construct a stable, effective shelter. You can find some basic plans simply by searching for fallout shelter blueprints online. Some plans may even include a step by step overview for building the shelter.  You can also get blueprints by consulting an architect or drafter. They can provide guidance on what shelter best suits your needs. Most building construction companies can build a shelter for you. Even if you don’t want to hire someone to design a shelter, sketch your own plans before beginning construction. You can try using a computer program like SketchUp. Plot out the shelter’s perimeter according to your blueprint. Plant a series of wooden stakes in the ground to outline the shelter’s perimeter. Then, use shovels, axes, and other tools to dig up grass, trees, rocks, and other debris in the area.  Clear the land about 10 ft (3.0 m) beyond the shelter’s perimeter so you have plenty of space to work with. The shelter’s size is up to you. Expect to add about 3 ft (0.91 m) to the shelter’s length for every person who will hide there. A basic 4-person shelter is about 10 × 10 × 10 ft (3.0 × 3.0 × 3.0 m) in size. Begin digging out soil to form the basic outline of your shelter. You can do this with shovels, although it takes a lot of time and labor. Move the excavated dirt 10 ft (3.0 m) beyond the stakes. You will need to keep the dirt away so it doesn’t fall back into the trench.  For quicker work, rent a backhoe from an equipment company near you. This can get pricey, but speeding up the excavation process is often worth it. Digging a deeper trench means more space and blast protection for your shelter. The emergency exit will also serve as extra ventilation. At the end of the trench, dig a crawl space about 2 ft (0.61 m) wide and 3 1⁄2 ft (1.1 m) deep. The crawl space will be right below the soil’s surface. Create an exit at the end by digging a small trench to connect the crawl space to the outside world.  You can build dirt steps as needed to reach the surface. Pile dirt near the entryway, then begin digging into it with a shovel. Shape the dirt into small steps. Lay threshold boards over each steps, connecting them to side boards with 10 in (25 cm) lag bolts. Always have a second exit in your shelter to guard against emergencies. Create the main entryway the same way you built the emergency exit. This time, dig on the opposite end of the shelter. You can make this entryway a little wider so you have an easier time entering the shelter. Keep the entryway below ground, emerging away from the shelter’s main living quarters. The main entrance will not have air pumps or ventilation pipes running through it, so it may appear larger by default.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Fold a sheet of fabric in half, right sides facing in. Find a pair of pajama pants that fit you and fold them in half. Place the pants on top of the fabric, with the side seams along the fold. Trace around the pants leaving room for the seams. Cut the fabric out, then repeat the process for the other leg.

Answer:
Your fabric should be twice the length you want your pajama pants to be. If your fabric is not long enough, then fold the left and right sides towards the middle instead.  If you have not already, it would be a good idea to wash, dry, and iron the fabric. This will remove any shrinking and coatings. Cotton or flannel work the best. If you live in a colder climate, fleece would also be a good option. Avoid stiff, coarse, or non-breathable material. Fold the pants so that the side seams match up, and the crotch is visible. Make sure that the back of the pants is on the outside. Most pants are larger in the back than in the front; if you fold them with the front on the outside, they may be too small.  Pull the crotch part out so that it makes a triangle. If you do not have any existing pajama pants, you can use sweatpants or any other loose-fitting pants with an elastic or drawstring waistband. This way, you won't have to sew the pants along the outside edges. Make sure that the waistband is 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the top edge of the fabric, and the cuffs are 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the bottom edge. If you plan to make more pajama pants for yourself, lay the pants down on a piece of tracing paper instead. This will give you a reusable pattern. Use a 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) seam allowance for the inseam and the crotch, and a 1 inch (2.5 cm) seam allowance for the bottom edge of the cuff. Use a 2 inches (5.1 cm) seam allowance for the waistband. Use chalk for dark fabrics and a pen for light.  When you reach the top, be sure to stretch the waistband out so that it aligns with the legs, otherwise your pants will be too narrow. Make any adjustments to your pattern as you trace it. This includes making the legs shorter, longer, narrower, or wider. Cut the first leg out, making sure that you cut through both layers of fabric. Use it as a template to trace and cut the second leg. You do not need to add seam allowances to the second leg, because the template already includes them. You will end up with 2 pieces of fabric, 1 for each leg.