Choose an acrylic or oil-based paint based on the color and texture that you want for your top coat. Open the top of your paint with a flathead screwdriver and mix it with a mixing stick until the color is smooth and uniform. Fill a clean paint tray halfway with your paint.  Acrylic paint will result in a smoother finish that doesn’t reflect light, but it tends to be harder to clean than oil-based paint. Oil-based paint is thicker than acrylic and will result in a shinier finish. It’s a lot easier to clean than acrylic paint, however, it can feel kind of sticky when you touch it. To start, dip a 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) angle brush into your paint and tap it in the tray to remove the excess paint. Apply paint to the corners and oddly-shaped edges using smooth, even strokes. Paint in the direction of the wood grain to ensure that the paint adheres to the pores of the wood. Continue painting until you’ve covered all of the edges and trim.  You can use a natural or synthetic brush. Nylon is better for smoother wood while a natural brush is better for rougher surfaces. Your brush strokes will leave a slight texture behind. You can use the brush to paint all of your cabinet’s surfaces if you want this texture. If you don’t want to leave this texture behind, paint over the edges of your brush strokes with the roller. Once you’ve painted the hard-to-paint edges and corners, fill a foam roller up with your paint. Then, roll the flatter surfaces, like the panels and sides of the cabinets, using even strokes. Overlap each roll as you apply it. Cover each section 2-3 times to ensure that there are no gaps in the paint where it soaks into the pores. Continue painting until you’ve covered each surface that you’re going to paint. You can use a thick-napped roller if you prefer, but a foam roller tends to be easier to use with smooth surfaces. Once you’ve finished painting, wait for the base coat to dry. This typically takes 24 hours, but it may take slightly longer if you’re using oil-based paint or didn’t do a great job of sanding. Keep your windows open and any fans on to ensure that the fumes don’t build up in your room. Once your paint dries, inspect the finish to see if it’s consistent and even. In most cases, you’ll want to apply additional coats to make the paint uniform and the color rich. Reapply an additional 2-3 coats, waiting and sanding in between each coat to ensure that the paint adheres to the wood.  If you’re painting your cabinets a bright color, you’ll definitely need multiple coats to achieve the true color of the paint. If you like a slightly uneven or textured look, feel free to stop painting after applying your base coat. Once your paint job has dried, get a shellac or wood varnish if you want to waterproof the cabinets. Fill a clean paint tray with your finish and use a natural brush to apply it to the paint. Work slowly and carefully and paint in the direction of the wood grain. Use the brush to cover every surface. Wait at least 24 hours for the shellac or varnish to dry. You do not have to seal your cabinets if you don’t want to. It will help protect them over a longer period of time, though. Once your cabinets are painted and sealed, remove the painter’s tape. Peel it off slowly to avoid ripping up any paint if you taped sections of the cabinet off. Then, slide your drawers back into their designated tracks. Reattach each door using the corresponding brackets and a screwdriver. Once you’ve reinstalled the drawers and doors, use a screwdriver to reinstall the doorknobs and handles.

Summary: Fill a paint tray with your acrylic or oil-based paint. Paint the trim, corners, and details with an angle brush. Use a foam roller to paint your panels and even surfaces. Wait 24-48 hours for your paint to dry. Reapply additional coats until you achieve the color that you want. Seal your cabinets with varnish and wait 24 hours for them to dry. Reinstall your cabinets and drawers using your diagram and labels.


This will either be two or three holes depending on the size of your skull plate. Place the holes where you want the skull plate to sit on the plaque. Near the top or in the middle of the plaque are the best places. Use the thickest part of the skull plate, as that will be the sturdiest part to hold the mount in place. These will need to match the size and position of the holes on the plaque. Insert drywall screws into the holes you just made, and into the holes you've drilled in the plaque. These should be strong enough to hold the antlers in place. You can use leather, felt, velvet, silk, or rubber to cover the skull plate. When you cut the material to cover the plate, make sure to add an extra half-inch around to wrap over the edges of the skull. Make sure to cut holes for the antlers as well. Stretch around the plate to cover the part that will face out, and secure on the back with tacks or staples. You can switch the order between this and the previous step. If you secure the antlers to the plaque first, and can't wrap around the back, use decorative brass tacks and nails to hold the covering in place. Display your work proudly, somewhere to remind you of a good hunt or to impress guests. Make sure you use a sturdy hanging tab, or a flush holding bracket, to keep the plaque in place on your wall.

Summary: Drill holes into wood plaque. Drill holes in the skull plate. Secure the antlers to the plaque. Cover the bone. Hang your finished mount.


To install the switch, you will need 3 pieces of wire instead of 2 as well as a simple switch. Once you strip the wires and get them attached to the battery pack you can proceed to install the switch. Take the exposed metal end of one of the wires from the battery pack and bend it into a U-shape. Loosen the screw on the switch and slip the U-shape of the wire underneath. Tighten the screw making sure that the metal of the wire remains in contact with the screw. Bend each of the metal ends of the wire into a U-shape. Slip the U-shape under the second screw of the switch to attach it. Tighten the screw ensuring the metal of the screw stays in contact with the metal of the wire. Take the end of each wire (one from the battery and one from the switch) and bend it into a U-shape. Loosen each screw on the light bulb holder just enough to slip the U-shape of the wire around the screw. Each wire will be attached to its own screw. Tighten the screw, ensuring that the wires remain in contact with the metal screw. Screw the light bulb into its holder until it is tight. Flip the switch! If your circuit is hooked up properly, the bulb should light up when fully screwed into its socket.  Light bulbs can heat up quickly so be careful when installing and removing the bulb. If the bulb doesn’t light, check to make sure the wires are touching the ends of the battery and in contact with the metal of the screws.
Summary: Gather the materials. Install the switch. Attach the extra third wire to the switch. Hook up the light bulb. Test your circuit.