In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Wait for the dial tone. Some phone providers require you to sign up for call forwarding/diversion at an additional cost. This method will only work if your service supports call forwarding. After a brief pause (or three quick dial tones), you’ll hear the steady dial tone once more. The code you’ll dial depends on how you want to forward calls:   Forward all incoming calls:  *72  Forwarding when you don’t answer:  *92  Forward when busy/on the other line:  *90 This is the phone number that your incoming calls will be forwarded to. Confirmation may occur in one of two ways:  If you hear a confirmation message, you’re all set. If you hear ringing through the receiver, this means your provider will confirm the forwarding once another party answers the call. If you decide not to forward calls, dial one of the following codes:   Stop forwarding all calls: *73 Stop forwarding on no answer: *93 Stop forwarding when busy: *91
Summary: Pick up your landline phone. Dial the call diversion code. Dial the forwarding phone number. Wait for confirmation. Disable call forwarding when desired.

Match the wires of the car’s harnesses to the new stereo’s harnesses. Each harness connector is unique, so it should be easy to figure out which ones fit together.  To be safe, check the wiring diagrams for both your car and the new stereo to verify you’ve connected them correctly. If your car's stereo doesn’t use wire harnesses, you’ll need to match up each wire manually. The wires are color-coded; however, the wires on an after-market stereo may not match with the color-coded wires in your vehicle. It's best to study and follow the wiring diagram that came with the stereo. Connect the matched wires. There are two options for connecting the wires, crimping or soldering. Crimping is faster and easier, but soldering will provide a more stable and secure connection. Be sure to use the proper size crimper and don’t try to bundle the wires with tape — it will eventually dry out and fall off. Bundle wires using zip ties instead. If your new stereo came with a separate mounting kit, assemble it according to the stereo's instructions (it will often mean fitting a metal housing sleeve into the mounting frame). Push down on the tabs located around the metal sleeve with a screwdriver to secure the metal sleeve in place. Typically, if you have a wiring harness, this connection will be made when you connect the new stereo harnesses to the harnesses in the car. If you aren't using a wiring harnesses, you’ll need to manually connect the power. Determine whether your car has a switched power source (typically a red wire) or a constant power source (typically a yellow wire). Some vehicles even have both types of power sources. For more information on switched versus constant power, go here. If you're using wiring harnesses, this connection will be made when you connect the harness pieces.  If you aren't using a wiring harness, you'll need to locate the bolt, wire, or screw that connects with the car's bare metal chassis. Loosen the bolt, wire, or screw and slip the stereo's ground wire (usually black) underneath, then tighten. Note that the ground connection is important to the optimal performance of the stereo. If the ground wire doesn't connect to the bare metal, it won't work. And if the ground wire connection is loose, it could result in poor audio output. Sand down the area with sand paper to ensure a good connection. Plug in the antenna cable and connect the stereo's wiring adapter to the the car's wire harness. Connect the output converter if one is needed to make the new stereo compatible with the car's audio system. Have in mind that all wires should be connected in the end and there should no single one hanging unattended. Turn the power on and test the AM, FM, and CD components. Test the fade and balance settings to be sure the speakers are working properly. Turn the power back off.
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One-sentence summary -- Match up the wires. Assemble the mounting kit. Connect the power source. Ground the stereo. Connect the remaining wires. Test the stereo.

Problem: Article: You will be able to prevent future bites if you know what sort of bugs you're dealing with. Bed bug bites, most common around the home, are large, splotchy, red bites. If you've ever been bitten by a mosquito, bed bug bites look very similar.  Flea bites will be smaller red bites. They often appear around the ankles or lower legs. If you have pets, get them checked for fleas. You can pick up a flea medication at your local veterinarian office. Bites from lice will appear in your hair. You may not be able to see them, so have a friend or family member check for you. They are red and itchy. These bites can also appear in other areas which have body hair. You don't want to mistake other irritants for bug bites. Allergies cause similar redness and swelling, as do toxic chemicals such as pesticides or solvents. Emotional stress and anxiety can also cause similar breakouts. To prevent insects from getting into bed and biting you at night, wash and change your sheets often. Your dead skin cells will fill your bed, and these cells will attract insects. Washing your sheets every other week isn't terrible, but a weekly cleaning is ideal.  Even if you cannot see the bugs in your bed, they can definitely be present. Tiny microscopic bugs called dust mites may be biting you at night. These bugs are attracted to the dead skin cells that stick to dirty sheets. Use hot, soapy water to get a deep clean on your sheets. Make sure that you let them dry completely in the dryer. Moist sheets can collect mold. If you've washed your sheets and you're still finding bites or insects in your bed, buy new sheets. It's a bit of an investment, but you'll be thankful in the long haul. Try moving your bed frame away from the wall. Even a few inches of space can be helpful. You'll reduce the ability for bugs to move between the wall and your bed. Most bugs will scurry into any opening in a bed that you leave for them. It's best, therefore, to eliminate any area that they could nest in. Don't let your sheets drape onto the ground.  Remember that bed bugs cannot fly or jump. You can take advantage of their fairly limited mobility by tucking your sheets in. If you have dust mites, however, you actually don't want to make your bed.  If you leave your bed unmade, you'll remove moisture from your sheets and mattress. Eventually, the mites will dehydrate and die. Dust mites need humidity to survive, so any dry environment will kill them. It isn't enough just eradicate bugs from your bed itself. You'll need to use a vacuum to kill any remaining bugs. You also want to pick up scrap particles from your carpet. Any extra detritus will attract bugs into your area. Vacuum often to ensure that your carpet will be free of creatures in the future.  Get an attachment for the vacuum to access hard to reach places. This could include the space behind your headboard or along the tack strips at the edge of your carpet. Be sure to move your bed from its usual location. You need to clean the entirety of your carpeted floor. If you don't have carpet, you can use a mop with soap and water to clean the area around your bed. Even if you don't have a pool or another body of water near your house, you may still be attracting bugs to your property. Mosquitos lay eggs their eggs near sources of water, so they will take advantage of any liquid that could be out in your home.  Drill holes in open containers, such as trash cans, that may be collecting water in them. Change birdbaths and pets' water bowls as often as you can. These are breeding grounds for mosquitos to be laying eggs. Don't leave pots, pans, or full glasses of water out.
Summary:
Determine what's biting you. Change your sheets. Tuck your sheets between the mattress and the box spring. Vacuum thoroughly and regularly. Eliminate standing water from your home.