If the book is full of tiny holes, or if bits of paper flake off when you move it, it could be infested with book mites or other paper-eating pests. To prevent further damage, seal the book in a freezer bag with the air squeezed out. Place the bag in the freezer for several weeks to kill off insects and eggs. Mold usually causes a strong musty smell. Any book with warped binding, wet or stuck-together pages, or obvious water damage is also at risk of mold. Unfortunately, mold damage is extremely difficult to repair without hiring a professional. Store the book in a warm, dry location to minimize further damage. If you see a furry white or grey mold on the pages, gently wipe it away with a soft cloth. In severe cases, you can repair the binding or make a new one. While not difficult with practice, it's best not to try this on rare or valuable books. Any librarian or rare book dealer should be able to advise you on more specialized cases. If you have a valuable or antique book, consider hiring a professional archivist to make the repairs.
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One-sentence summary -- Freeze books affected by pests. Check for signs of mold. Repair the book's binding. Seek professional advice.

Q: Steam cleaning is most effective when you remove all toys, papers, and general clutter from the floor. Move all tables, chairs, and furniture out of the room. Clear as much of the floor space as you can.  If some furniture is too heavy to move, place squares of wax paper, foil, wood blocks, or plastic film under the legs to protect them from the moisture of the steam cleaner. You can’t clean the carpet completely if you leave furniture in the room. If you don’t have room to move the furniture to another room, move it all to half of the room and do the room in two separate sections. Let the carpet dry before you move furniture back to the already cleaned half. As you run the steam cleaner, you might knock dust off the baseboards if you don’t dust them beforehand. Use a dust cloth with wood polish or a long handled duster to remove as much of the dust as you can. Dust ceiling fans and corners of the ceiling to prevent extra dust from falling on the carpet after you have steam cleaned them. Steam cleaners are meant to pull up small dirt particles that are down in the fibers of the carpet. They are not for removing hair and larger dirt pieces. Vacuum the entire room more slowly than you usually would. It is best to go over the room twice to get as much of the larger debris as possible. The second time, go over the room in the opposite direction to pick up more dirt.  For extra cleaning, use a nozzle attachment to get right up to the baseboards and edges of the room. Vacuuming also fluffs up the carpet so that the steamer can clean the fibers more effectively. Steamers can’t always lift deep, set-in stains, so it’s always helpful to treat stains before steaming the carpet. Use a carpet stain remover, or other natural solutions if you prefer. Blot the stain remover up with a cloth or leave it to be sucked up by the machine. When you do this, dab at the stains with a cloth. Never scrub at stains as this can cause them to work deeper into the carpet.
A: Remove everything from the room. Dust the baseboards. Vacuum the entire carpet carefully. Use stain remover on specific bad spots.

Article: Draw the tattoo design you’d like on a regular sheet of printer paper, in pencil. It should look exactly how you want your tattoo to look, because it will transfer exactly that way to the transfer paper. Thermographic transfer paper actually comes in a set of three sheets – an under sheet, a black piece of carbon paper, and a top transfer sheet where the carbon copy will appear. Place the piece of paper with your original design under the carbon paper and on top of the under sheet. This is specialty equipment that you can find in some tattoo shops. Some printing shops might also have the transfer maker you need. Exactly how you feed the papers in will depend on the exact model maker you have, but the design should always go in face down. Once you’ve run the transfer paper through the transfer maker, you’ll have an exact replica of your initial design on the top piece of carbon paper. Tear the carbon copy off of the set of transfer paper. It might take a couple of tries to get your design exactly where the customer wants it. Ask them repeatedly to make sure they're happy with the eventual position. Mix up a solution of soapy water – it should be soapy enough that you get bubbles. You can use a regular, mild dish soap. Dip a cloth in the soapy water and then rub it on the skin where the tattoo will go. Once your client's skin is wet with soapy water, realign the carbon copy of the tattoo over the skin. Ask for your client's approval of the placement, and then press the carbon copy down. Use your hands to completely smooth it out. As you do that, press down, to make sure that the design transfers. As you lift the carbon copy away from your client's skin, you should see the transferred design. If you notice there are places where the design didn’t come through, lay the carbon copy back down gently and press a bit harder. Ask you client to approve the final placement once the design has transferred. If they aren't happy, remove the design by wiping down your client's skin with rubbing alcohol on a cotton ball. Repeat the process to create a new carbon copy of the design and apply it to your client's skin.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Create your tattoo design in pencil. Slide your original design under the carbon paper. Put the whole set of papers through a thermographic transfer maker. Remove the top carbon copy from the rest of the transfer paper. Situate the carbon copy where your client wants the tattoo. Wet down your customer's skin with soapy water. Press the carbon copy down onto your client's skin. Lift off the carbon copy. Repeat these steps if your client isn't happy with the placement.