Write an article based on this "Continue working in quadrants as before. Consider caulk. Let the floor cure."
article: Using a rubber float, apply only enough grout as you can effectively work with. In a diagonal direction, press grout into the joints to an even level with the tile.  Skim excess from tile with the rubber float. You will notice a mild “grout haze” on your tiles.  Wait a few minutes for the grout to stiffen up in the joints. Use a damp sponge work across the joints, (working along joints can drag out too much grout) to remove grout haze from tiles and finish the joints, make sure not to press too hard on joints. As you work, check each joint is full and smoothly finished. Continue this process with other joints in remaining quadrants. For joints at the wall and floor interface it is best to use caulk instead of grout. There are benefits to using caulk along wall joints. All tiles may expand or contract depending on temperature fluctuations. The wall joints are also known as expansion joints. Using caulk here will buffer expansion and contraction a bit. Wait for the entire floor to cure for about a week before giving it a good mopping to remove remaining grout haze. You may also choose to seal the grout with a sealer to lock out dirt and or grease.

Write an article based on this "Purchase butane to refill your lighter. Select a flat, sturdy surface to work on. Purge your lighter. Set the flame height adjuster on the lighter to the lowest level. Shake the can of refill fluid. Secure the tip of the refill bottle into the refill valve on the lighter. Fill the lighter for about five seconds. Set the desired flame height. Test the lighter."
article: You can find refill cans almost anywhere you can purchase cigarettes or cigars, like a tobacco store. Look for bottles that come with metal tips instead of plastic ones. Metal tips are better for inserting the butane into the lighter.  Verify the butane works with your lighter by reading its label instructions. Always follow the safety directions on the canister to achieve the best results. Select a high-quality butane specifically intended for butane lighters. Low-quality fuel may not light as well. You'll also want this to be in a place that is well ventilated. You’ll be dealing with flammable gas while refilling. Good ventilation will prevent the buildup of harmful fumes.  Your kitchen or an outside area are good places to refill your butane lighter because both are open spaces. Open a window or turn on a vent in the room if it is available. If airflow is still poor even with a window open, use a stationary fan to improve circulation. Remaining fluid or gas may spray onto your work surface while refilling. Protect your work surface with a layer of newspaper or a drop cloth. Release the air and remaining fuel inside the lighter. While holding the valve so it's pointed away from your face, push down on the refill lever with a screwdriver. The air will be fully released when you no longer hear a hissing sound.  The refill lever is also sometimes known as the nipple. It is located on the bottom of most butane lighters and usually looks like a small hole with a tiny, circular valve inside. If you don't have a screwdriver, use a pen, paperclip, or similar tool to push down the valve and release remaining air in the lighter. If lighter fluid sprays onto your hands or tools, rinse these thoroughly in soap and water. If you forget to do so, the fuel may ignite and burn you when you test the lighter. The flame height adjuster is usually on the bottom of the lighter and looks like a screw with a flat head screwdriver slot. Use a small flat head screwdriver and turn the screw clockwise to lower the flame.  By turning the adjuster to its lowest setting, even if you accidentally ignite the lighter, the flame will be small and unlikely to do harm or damage. Some lighters may indicate the minimum setting direction with a minus sign ( - ). Turn the adjuster screw towards the minus sign to lower the flame. If you have an older can especially, give it a few shakes up-and-down. Over time, the fluid can sink to the bottom and not spray effectively. By shaking the can, you'll prime it for refilling.  While shaking the can, you'll also be able to feel fluid swish around inside it. This will give you a chance to gauge how much is in the bottle. Nearly empty bottles may not have enough fluid to fully refill your lighter and should be swapped out for a new can of replacement fuel. Make sure you are holding the lighter and refill bottle straight up and down. In some cases, the bottle tip may not form a secure fit with the lighter's valve. In this situation, use a tip adapter.  Most butane refill bottles come with an adapter, so before you try to refill, make sure the standard tip fits over the valve. Don’t fill the lighter at an angle. This will let air into the lighter tank. Air in the lighter will cause the lighter to not work properly. It will have to be drained and refilled. Pressing the lighter down onto the bottle will disengage the release valve on the bottle's nozzle. Press down on the lighter firmly for about five seconds to refill the lighter.  After filling, if you feel like your lighter isn’t full, repeat this procedure for another five seconds. Refill cans low on fuel may take more time to refuel lighters. Some lighters have a fuel level that you can check. Check the butane level viewer if you have one to gauge the lighter's fullness. Lighters that are filled up too much will overflow. This can be dangerous, as butane can leak and catch fire when lighting. Flip your lighter over and reset the adjuster to its starting position. Ideally, the flame should be about 1 to 1 1⁄2 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) tall. Before attempting to test the lighter, let the butane settle for a few minutes.  Once you’ve refilled and set your flame height, give your lighter a minute or so to absorb the butane. As you wait for butane to be absorbed, check your lighter for leaks. Wipe up leaked fuel with a dampened rag. Rinse the rag frequently. If your lighter leaks, you may have to purge the fuel and refill it again. Check for obvious culprits first, like loose fasteners, before purging and refilling. If there are any spills or if you smell even a hint of fumes, wait a few more minutes for these to dissipate. Hold the lighter at a safe distance from your face and ignite the flame. You may need to add more butane if the flame does not catch or seems weak. In most butane lighters, butane won't dissolve over time. Always test your lighter before refilling it to make sure that it is empty.

Write an article based on this "Get rid of nests early in the year. Don some armor. Find the hive. Spray the nest with pesticide spray. Use wasp-repellant dust. Use soap and water. Use smoke and water."
article:
Nests are designed by queens and built by workers in early spring, and the colonies grow throughout the late spring and early summer until reaching peak size somewhere around August. The end of summer also finds wasps at their most aggressive and protective, making it a dangerous time to try to get rid of them.  Early in the year, the nests are smaller and more manageable. Get in the habit of patrolling the area around your home for wasp nests in the early season, before they've grown to dangerous sizes. If you kill the queen, there will also be no risk of the nest being rebuilt that year. If it's late in the season, it's probably best to wait it out and let the frost kill off the pests in the next 30-60 days. Then, you can knock the empty nests down to ensure that they won't be repopulated next year. Anytime you go hunting around for wasps, you need to keep yourself well protected. You probably don't need a full-on chemical protection suit, but taking a few steps in precaution can keep you from coming home with nasty stings if you get swarmed.  You need to wear thick, long sleeves and pants, heavy gloves, a hood that covers as much of your face as possible, and eye protection. Even if it's super hot outside, don't skimp on the layers and the thickness of the clothing. If you get swarmed by wasps, it's important to not over-think it: run as quickly as possible away from the wasps. While some people report that swinging articles of clothing or turning abrupt corners can be effective at shaking a swarm, the best way to get away is to run as fast as possible and get inside. If you're having a consistent problem with wasps in your area, it can be quite frustrating. But don't keep swatting them one at a time. Get rid of them at the source and get them away from your home. Find the nest and kill the nest and your problem will solve itself. Yellow-jacket nests are quite small, while wasp nests will be somewhat larger and more bulbous, like a papery football.  Wasps tend to build their nests in loose piles of wood, along rafters, or in garbage cans that are seldom used.  Check under porch gaps, and anywhere in your home with a large void or construction gap. Sometimes, nests can be buried behind walls, making them quite difficult to get to. Use a stethoscope or a water glass to hold up to the wall and listen for the buzzing. It might be necessary to drill into the wall to apply insecticide. When you find the nest, it's important to get rid of it as quickly and safely as possible, and the most effective technique is using insecticide spray to kill the wasps at the source.  Some commercial aerosol sprays are available that you can apply from as far as 20 feet away, keeping you a safe distance from the nest. The ECO PCO line of sprays are made of botanical compounds, making them somewhat safer than chemical-based sprays. Alternatively, residual insecticide sprays like D-Fense SC and Cyper WP can be applied to the area immediately surrounding the nest, killing the wasps indirectly, from a safe distance. Always defer to the manufacturer directions when applying any kind of pesticide spray. Insecticide dust is an effective long-term strategy for dealing with wasps, maintaining its efficacy for up to six months, and making it deter wasps for even longer in some cases. It's easy to use and widely available.  The brands Tempo Dust, Sevin Garden Dust, or Dusters are both effective brands of using on wasp nests. Apply dust around the nest opening first thing in the morning, applying about a quarter cup loosely in the general area. Don't clog the opening, so the wasps can move freely and spread the dust around independently.  One of the dangers of using dust is what makes it effective: it stays dangerous for a long time. If you have pets or small children, applying dust to a nest near your home might be dangerous. Use caution. It may be somewhat primitive, but with some good aim, plain soapy water is a somewhat effective way of destroying a nest and killing off the wasps with household supplies.  Mix about a third of a cup of dish soap into a half gallon of water and load it into as powerful a spray applicator as you can find. You want to be able to stand fairly far away from the nest as you spray it with sudsy water. Shake the sudsy water to get it will integrated, then spray the soapy water liberally around the opening of the nest and get out of dodge. Reapply this soapy water several times over the next few days. One effective natural way of eradicating wasps is to combine natural wood smoke and water to get the wasps out of the area. When wasps sense fire in the area, they'll vacate the nest and allow you to destroy it safely.  Use a small grill to build a tiny and contained wood fire safely underneath the nest. Let the smoke rise steadily for an hour or two, while the wasps leave. Come back to the area with a hose and spray the nest down, knocking it down with a stick if necessary, destroying it.