Article: You can also use the microwave to make Nutella hot chocolate, though as milk easily scalds in the microwave, you must be sure not to over-microwave it! To begin, pour the 1 ⅓ cup (315.4 ml) of milk into a microwave-safe mug. Place the mug of milk in the microwave and microwave on high for 2 minutes. Don't microwave for any longer than 2 minutes, as this can cause the milk to scald. After the milk has microwaved for 2 minutes, take the mug out of the microwave and scoop in the Nutella. Begin to stir together the Nutella into the milk with a spoon. As you are stirring, you should see the Nutella beginning to melt from the heat of the milk. Keep stirring until the Nutella has fully melted and is mixed with the milk. If your hot chocolate isn't hot enough, put it back in the microwave and microwave for fifteen-second intervals, checking after every session to make sure the milk doesn't scald. Then serve and enjoy!
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Pour milk into a microwave-safe mug. Microwave on high for 2 minutes. Add the Nutella. Stir until the Nutella is incorporated. Reheat if necessary.

Problem: Article: The most important things to pick up are big wooden letters. These can be found at most arts and crafts stores. They are usually around 12-18 inches tall and cost around eight dollars a piece. You can also use paper mache letters, but they will not withstand outside weather conditions like wood can. You will want to get all the letters of your business name, or the slogan you use. You can also get letters to create phrases, such as "Ten Percent Off" or "Buy One Get One."  Here are some other materials you will need:  Acrylic paint of your choosing Large and small paintbrushes 3-4 plastic place mats Scissors Spray paint primer Silver spray paint Electric drill Pencil Stringed bulb lights Super glue Nails Cork board Buy some acrylic paint from your nearby hardware store. Stir the paint when you get home, and apply it with a medium sized brush. Go from right to left, left to right, always with the grain of the wood. Make sure you get both the front of the letters and the sides. You will want to do this outside so the fumes don't build up. Make sure you are wearing gloves and an old t-shirt as you paint. You can create a "vintage" look by dabbing on darker colors to the edges. Use a small piece of foam and dab it in the dark paint. Gently press and rub it around the edges of your wood. You will want to buy a few plastic place mats. Measure, with a ruler, every 2 inches and make a mark on the short side of the place mat. Use scissors to cut out the 2 inch wide strips, going longways. If you want to, you can take a piece of sandpaper or steel wool, and run down the edges of your plastic strips. This will smooth them out, and make them soft to the touch. This is not the step where you attach the strips to your letters. You first need to get the form of the letters. Take one strip and wrap it around one of the edges of your letters.   Press firmly so that all the curves and corners form in your strip.  Make a mark with a pencil where that strip ended and place that strip to the side. Grab another strip, and start about 1/2 inch before that mark. Continue until each of your strips has been formed. When you set the strips to the side, let them stay in the bended positions. Remember which strip goes where. You will first want to spray the plastic pieces with a spray primer. Then, once the primer is dry, paint on a black bottom layer of spray paint. Move the can left to right as you hold down the nozzle. Make sure to get the entire surface area, as well as the edges. Then get a can of silver spray paint. Hold the can as far away as possible, and lightly spray the pieces. You just want the plastic strips to get a light coating of silver spray paint.  In between the primer, black, and silver coats, wait for the plastic strips to dry completely. Do this outside so that the fumes don't build up, and so you don't get paint everywhere. You might want to wear gloves and goggles when you are spray painting. Decide on where, and how many, holes you want. For an 18 inch letter, you will want about 10 holes. The important thing is that the holes are equidistant from one another, and are centered along the width of the letters. Mark where you want each hole with a light pencil mark. Drill each mark, all the way through. Wipe away any excess sawdust with a soft cloth.  Make sure the drill bit you use is at least the size of the largest part of the light socket. When you insert the lights later on, you want to make sure they fit into the holes. Determine the number of holes you want by how many lights you have available. If you only have a few, do fewer holes in each letter. Remember, you will need a relatively high number of bulbs to create the effect of the marquee sign. Wipe down the edges of your letters with a clean cloth. Put a consistent strip of super glue on one section of a letter. Take the respective plastic strip and press it to the letter. Wait 15 seconds before you release it. Make sure that you are applying pressure equally to the entire strip. Continue on, until all of the strips have been glued on.  There will be some overlapping, depending on how much you overlapped when you originally bent the strips. If you notice the strips are already coming off in certain areas, apply a few drops of super glue behind the loose areas. Reapply pressure for another 15 seconds. You will want to buy at least two sets of globe string lights, available at most local hardware, and arts and crafts stores. Take the lightbulbs out, leaving just the string of sockets. Insert them from the back, starting with your first letter. As you are inserting each socket, apply a small amount of duct tape, or electrical tape, to the back of each socket. This will keep the sockets from popping out.  When you run out of one line of sockets, simply attach the next line and continue on. Once you have finished putting in the sockets, go ahead and attach the bulbs on the front side of your sign. This will give your sockets some extra security as well. You can use a peg board, a cork board, or just a regular piece of wood. Lay your letters onto the board to determine where you will need nails. Insert them into the peg/cork boards, or hammer them into the piece of wood. Now just plug in your socket lines, hang your sign up, and it's ready to go.
Summary: Find and buy your materials. Paint your letters the color you want. Cut out plastic strips. Wrap the strips around your letters. Spray paint the plastic strips. Drill holes into your wooden letters. Glue your strips to the letters. Insert the light sockets. Attach the letters and hang your sign.

You will need two and a half times the amount of batting as you need foam core.  Then, get ready to layer your foam and batting. Make sure to apply an even, thin layer atop the wood base. Let it sit according to package directions. Apply an even layer, and then wait for it to dry. Lay and center a large piece of batting on the table. It will need to wrap around the base and foam to create the upholstered look. Center it on the table so that you will have more than enough batting on every side to wrap around the back of the base. Plug in the staple gun, as needed, and refill it with staples. Affix the batting to the base with staples within the first inch and a half of the edge of the base. Work from the center of each side out toward the corner. Use a hammer to knock loose staples into the wood. Create square corners by folding one side of the batting in toward the other side of the corner. Then, pull the batting up on the second side and affix it with several staples to the base.  Make sure not to cut below the staple line.
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Buy a large roll of batting from a craft store. Cut a piece of batting in the exact size of the foam core and plywood base. Set your wood base on top of the worktable. Glue the foam to the wood base using foam glue. Glue the batting to the top of the foam with a layer of foam glue. Pick your wood base, foam and batting off the table. Lay the wood base facing down on top of the sheet of batting. Choose a mechanical staple gun, an air compressor staple gun or an electric staple gun to affix the batting and fabric. Starting at the center of one side, fold the batting around the bench and onto the back of the base, pulling fairly hard to create tension. Staple every inch. Create round corners by pulling the batting around the center of the corner and affixing it right at the corner. Continue stapling until the entire edge of the batting is wrapped around the foam core and secured. Cut the excess batting from the bottom of the base.