Problem: Article: Save yourself time by buying a whole kit that has everything you need to refinish your tub. Most kits come with tub cleaner, sandpaper, primer, refinishing paint, a paint tray, a brush, and a roller.  Check that the kit comes with a durable resin coating for your tub. Some cheaper kits come with an epoxy coating, which chips and discolors faster. Refinishing kits can cost from about $30-$100 USD. Tub refinishing kits work to refinish all kinds of bathtubs including ceramic, porcelain, acrylic, fiberglass, and enamel tubs. The kits will provide a new porcelain-like finish to these kinds of tubs. Open up all the windows and put a fan in the bathroom to ventilate it. Cover the floors with heavy-duty plastic sheets to keep them safe during the refinishing process. Put on a face mask and goggles. You can also drape plastic sheets over fixtures like the toilet and sink to protect them. Read the directions on the cleaner to apply it to the tub and use a sponge to scrub the tub clean. Rinse the tub out, then go over it with the sponge and cleaner 2 more times to remove any soap scum and stains before you refinish it.  If your kit did not come with cleaner, then purchase an industrial strength bathtub cleaner to use. Let the tub completely air dry, or speed up the process with towels and a hair dryer. Start with the lowest-grit sandpaper from your refinishing kit and sand the whole surface of the tub in circular motions by hand, or with an electric sander. Work your way up to the highest-grit sandpaper in your kit until the tub is completely smooth. Your refinishing kit should come with sandpaper to use. If your kit didn't come with sandpaper, then start with 400-grit sandpaper and work your way up to 2000-grit. Increase the grit of the sandpaper in increments of 200 until you reach 1000-grit sandpaper, then go up in increments of 500 until you end using 2000-grit sandpaper. Follow the instructions to mix the two parts of the epoxy in a small tray. Use a small brush, spatula, or the bottom end of a matchstick to apply thin layers of epoxy to any chips. Wait 2-3 hours until the epoxy dries and sand the patches down with 2000-grit sandpaper to match the finish of the rest of the tub.  This will ensure that the tub has no chips or cracks and seal the surface before you apply the new finish. Get a 2-component epoxy chip repair kit from the bathroom remodeling or adhesive section of a home improvement store if your kit did not come with it. Tape along the edges of the tub where they touch the walls and around the faucet and other fixtures. Even if you have a steady hand, it's easy for paint to go astray! Painter's tape is the blue masking tape that you can find at hardware and paint stores. Use a roller to roll on the primer onto the large, flat sections of the tub like the floor and sides, then use a brush to get into the corners and curved parts. Let it dry for at least 2-3 hours before you start to paint on the new finish. Priming the surface is an important part of ensuring that the new finish adheres correctly so that you end up with the correct texture. Make sure that the primer is completely dry to the touch before you paint over it. Always paint in 1 direction when you apply the new coat to your tub. Roll on the new finish to the floors and sides in even back-and-forth rolls until the flat area is completely covered. Fill in the corners and curves of the tub with even back-and-forth brush strokes. Let each coat dry for at least 30 minutes before you put the next coat on. Some kits may come with a spray-on finish. If you use a sprayer instead of a brush or roller, try to spray evenly and in 1 direction. Make sure your walls and fixtures are well-protected by tape where there is a risk of paint spray hitting them. The new finish needs to set completely before you run water over it. Consult your kit's directions for the exact drying time for your specific finish.  If you don't let the finish dry long enough, you could end up with streaks and bubbles in the new coating and you will need to start the process over again. Your new DIY finish will last for years, but keep in mind that professional finishes will last even longer.
Summary: Buy a bathtub refinishing kit at a home improvement center. Ventilate the bathroom, cover the floors, and put on protective gear. Clean the bathtub with the cleaner from the kit. Sand the whole tub with the sandpaper in your kit to remove the old finish. Repair any chips or cracks in the tub with a 2-component epoxy chip repair kit. Put painter's tape on the walls and around any plumbing fixtures. Apply 1 coat of primer with a brush and roller. Paint on 2-3 coats of the new finish with a brush and roller. Let your bathtub sit for 2-3 days before you use it.

Problem: Article: While you can use any sort of coin, it’s best to start with larger ones, such as a quarter, unless you’re making a ring for smaller fingers. The coin doesn’t need to be new—it can be spare change you already have around the house. Make sure the coin isn't valuable before deciding to turn it into a ring. Look for a flat piece of heavy metal, a concrete floor, or any other solid, hard surface. This will be your base for hammering, and you’ll hold the coin on top of the hard surface.  Choose a surface that won’t be damaged by a hammer. A bench vise is another option for a flat, hard surface. Hold the coin using one hand so that it’s sitting up straight with a sliver of an edge touching the hard surface. Use a hammer to gently hit the edges of the coin, rotating the coin slowly as you hammer so that all of the sides are hit evenly. Continue hammering until the coin reaches the thickness of a ring.  Make sure your fingers aren’t in the way of the hammer as it’s hitting the top of the coin’s edges. How thick you want your ring to be is entirely up to you—roughly 0.5 cm (0.20 in) wide is good. Thicker rings will take longer to hammer, so be patient during this step. Avoid hitting the coin with a lot of force, as this could turn it into an oval or damage the overall form. Make sure the piece of wood is thick enough that the drill can go down into the wood without messing up the surface underneath. Place the coin in the center of the piece of wood, and either hold the coin with your fingers or use an adjustable wrench to keep the coin steady. If you’re holding the coin, hold the very edges so that your fingers won’t be in the way of the drill. Hold the coin steady as you drill the hole. Start with a smaller gauge and drill all the way through the coin. Switch the drill bit to a larger size, then drill through the metal again. Once you’ve drilled the hole, the coin should be left with roughly 0.5 cm (0.20 in) of coin thickness around the entire edge. If you have a sanding wheel that attaches to your drill, this is great for sanding out the rest of the coin to create a smooth ring. Hold the coin steady using your fingers or some other sort of clamp as you sand the inside of the ring until it thins out.  A dremel tool with an attachable sanding wheel is also a good option. Continue sanding until the coin is the thickness you want your ring to be. Attach a polishing wheel to your drill or dremel, using a small amount of polishing compound to get the best shine. Run the polishing wheel along the inside and outside of the ring, smoothing out all of the edges so the ring is shiny and completed. To use polishing compound, dip a rag or polishing wheel into the container of polish, using a small amount to rub over the ring's surface.
Summary:
Find a coin you’re willing to make into a ring. Hold your coin on a flat, hard surface. Hammer the edges of the coin while rotating it slowly. Place the coin flat on a piece of wood. Drill a large hole in the center of the coin. Grind out the middle of the coin using a sanding wheel. Polish the ring using a polishing wheel or cloth.