INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Place one hand at the top of your stomach and the bottom of your rib cage.  Inhale into this area and attempt to make your hand rise using your breath.  This will put your breath in the right place rather than pushing speech from your nose, chest or mouth.  Forcing breath from these places can be grating and loud. Once you have the breath in your diaphragm, try vocalizing from the place where you are resting your hand. Having tension in your neck can lead to trying to force the sound out of your throat.  Relax your throat in order to relax your voice.  Place one hand on your neck and speak normally to assess the tension in your throat.   Drop your jaw as low as you can and take in a large yawn.  Release the air slowly with a gentle hum.  Repeat this several times until you begin to feel your throat relaxing. Once your throat is relaxed, continue dropping your jaw, then exhaling with words like “hang, harm, lane and loam.” Massage your neck throughout this process if you feel it tightening. This will help you be heard as well as hearing yourself.  Speaking at the same volume, tends to have the effect of the listener tuning the speaker out.  This could lead to frustration and tempt the speaker to be even louder.  Experiment with varying your volume level.    Creating variety in your volume will allow you to be more conscious of your volume and see the effect on your listener. Try speaking at almost a whisper. Make your voice quieter until someone asks you to speak up. Try raising your volume only on the word you would like to emphasize.  “That pizza was the BEST!” It can be difficult to hear yourself.  Ideally you would hire a coach to be an outside ear.  They can assess your volume and your needs, then lead you through some exercises which will help you learn how to control your voice.  I this is not an option for you at this time, ask a friend to give you feedback.  Voice coaches can lead you through some breathing exercises, as well as running through the range of pitch and volume with your voice. If you are working on your own, ask a friend if they have noticed a difference.  Give them permission to point out when you raise your voice.  When they do point it out, don’t get angry.   Remember that they are trying to help you.

SUMMARY: Breathe from the diaphragm. Relax your throat. Vary your volume level. Enlist the help of someone else.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Use the misting attachment on your hose to wet the concrete. This prevents the concrete from absorbing the water from your resurfacer, which helps it adhere better. If there’s any standing water left on the concrete’s surface, push it off using a stiff-bristled broom.  If you don’t have a misting attachment for your hose, you’ll just have more water to brush off at the end. Resurfacer cannot be mixed by hand or in a barrel drum since it will not reach the right consistency. Pour the resurfacer mix and the water into a 5 US gal (19 L) bucket. Use the corded drill with a paddle attachment to blend the resurfacer together. This time, blend the resurfacer until it has the consistency of pancake batter.  Keeping the water cold will slightly increase the working time for the resurfacer. If your mixture is too thick, add 1⁄2 cup (120 ml) of water at a time to loosen it. If the mix is too runny, add 1⁄2 pound (0.23 kg) of the resurfacer. This will cover 45 square feet (4.2 m2) of concrete, so adjust the amounts as necessary for the area you intend to resurface. Start at one end of your concrete slab and work your way toward the other end. Lift your bucket and pour all of the mixed resurfacer onto your concrete in a strip that’s 1 foot (0.30 m) wide by 6–8 feet (1.8–2.4 m) long. Keep the resurfacer at least 2 feet (0.61 m) away from the edge of the concrete slab so it doesn’t ooze off. Don’t pour more than 1 strip at a time since the resurfacer dries within 30 minutes. Use a long-handled squeegee to make a thin layer of the resurfacer. Work in back and forth motions until the resurfacer is smooth and between 1⁄4–1⁄2 inch (0.64–1.27 cm) thick. Do not cover the weather stripping in the joints between your slabs.  Only work on an area that’s 144 square feet (13.4 m2) or smaller so the resurfacer doesn’t dry before you’re finished. A bag of concrete resurfacer covers about 90 square feet (8.4 m2). Keep a few extra bags of resurfacer handy in case you need to add more. Smooth concrete can be slippery unless you add texture to it. After the resurfacer has been sitting for 5 minutes, drag a nylon-bristle concrete broom across the surface to create texture lines. Always brush in the same direction so the lines look neat and uniform.  Concrete brushes are available to buy at your local home improvement or hardware store. Don’t use a regular broom since the resurfacer could get caught and dry in the bristles. Continue to pour strips of the resurfacer, working towards the edge of your slab. Squeegee the concrete until it’s smooth and level, then use your broom to add texture. Stay off of the resurfacer until it’s completely dry, which usually takes around 6 hours. If the temperatures are lower than 73 °F (23 °C), the resurfacer may take longer to set. Pull the weather stripping out from the joints between your slabs.  If you resurfaced a driveway or area with vehicle traffic, wait 24 hours before driving over it. If the temperature is higher than 90 °F (32 °C), mist the resurfacer twice per day to cure it.
Summary: Mist the concrete so it’s damp. Mix 5 1⁄2  c (1,300 ml) of cool water with 20 lb (9.1 kg) of resurfacer. Pour the resurfacer in a small area on top of your concrete. Spread the resurfacer evenly across your concrete with a squeegee. Brush across the surface with a concrete broom to add texture to the resurfacer. Pour resurfacer until you’ve finished your entire concrete area. Let the resurfacer dry for 6 hours before walking on it and removing weather stripping.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Rotary veneers are what plywood is made out of and generally produce an appearance that many people don't like. However, they can also come in larger sheets and may be the only option for very large projects. Sliced veneer looks like normal lumber, and allows you to get really beautiful grain detail. You can get random sets of veneers, or you can get book-matched sets. In book matched sets, you get the pieces that were cut one next to the other, so that the grain patterns match up. This can be used to create beautiful designs. However, unmatched sets may look more "natural". You can get veneer sheets that have adhesive already applied to one side. These are the easiest to place. If you get regular veneer, however, you'll need to use the application method discussed in the other section. These are generally applied just like a sticker, but you should read the included instructions to see if that particular manufacturer requires special steps. Veneers are attached to a substrate (or base material). Usually this is either another wood (if you are veneering, for example, panels on doors or cabinets) or it is a cheaper material altogether, such as MDF. These man-made materials are probably the best option, since they usually allow you to save the most money. You can use yellow or carpenter's glue if you want to. If you live in a very dry environment with little humidity, these will work perfectly fine. If you live in a humid environment, however, these glues can cause your veneers to wander. It's better to use a proper veneering glue. Many other methods of veneering use these glues. Be wary of those methods, especially if you live in a humid environment.

SUMMARY:
Choose a rotary vs sliced veneer. Choose a random or book-matched veneer. Choose your application method. Choose your substrate. Choose a glue.