Problem: Article: You may want to use a long-reach lighter or a long match. Use a thermometer to keep a close eye on the temperature as you heat the oil to make sure it doesn't get too hot. If your oil gets too hot, the outside of your turkey will cook faster than the inside, resulting in an undercooked bird. You also increase your risk of a grease fire. If you have a hanger, push the long end through the cavity of the turkey so that the hooks are firmly seated on the bottom of the turkey. Attach the handle and lift the turkey to make sure it feels secure. If you have a basket, place the turkey breast-side down. If the oil starts to spit, slowly lift the turkey back out. Do not drop the turkey in the oil! If you have to take the turkey out, double-check that the oil is the correct temperature and that the turkey is completely cleaned out and dried. Usually, spitting oil is a result of moisture coming into contact with the hot grease. A general guideline for how long this will take is roughly 3 minutes for each pound (0.4 kg) of bird, but you should always go by the internal temperature of the turkey rather than the cooking time. If you have a basket, use oven mitts to lift it by the handle. If you are using a hanger, carefully fish the turkey from the fryer. Allow the oil to drain off as you lift the bird. Use an instant-read thermometer to ensure you get an accurate reading. The temperature of the turkey should be a minimum of 165 °F (74 °C). The juices from the turkey need time to redistribute throughout the meat in order to get the best results. You can drain the turkey on paper towels or on a rack.
Summary: Light the burner and monitor the oil until it reaches 350 °F (177 °C). Place the turkey in the basket or attach it to the hanger. Slowly lower the turkey into the oil. Cook the turkey to a temperature of 165 °F (74 °C). Slowly lift the turkey out of the oil when it's time to check it. Test the temperature in both thighs and both sides of the breast. Allow the turkey to rest for 20 minutes before carving.

Problem: Article: The main reason your floor peeled up is due to inadequate preparation of the concrete below your epoxy. The concrete must be correctly prepared so the epoxy sticks to the concrete completely. To help with this, it may be easier to hire a professional who can clean and sand your concrete for you. You can find a contractor by searching online for “Floor epoxy installation contractors.”  Look at the reviews and ratings of different contractors in your area, and go with one that seems experienced with concrete work. This is a good idea if most of your floor is peeling up. You should remove the existing epoxy sections if you have patches missing from your flooring or notice certain areas beginning to peel. To do this, press a paint scraper against your flooring at a slight angle. Your epoxy should easily peel away with moderate pressure. If your epoxy is not coming off easily, move your scraper back and forth quickly to loosen it up. To prevent epoxy peeling, you must prepare your concrete properly. To do this, use a palm sander to mark your concrete so the epoxy sticks to it easier. Once you’ve removed the loose epoxy, plug in your hand sander, and place it on the floor over top the damaged area. Move your sander over the area in small circles about 1 ft (0.30 m) wide. Work on your section for about 30 seconds or so, then move any other damaged areas.  Your epoxy will not peel away if your floor is properly sanded. Palm sanders work great to sand the edges next to your walls. You can purchase or rent a hand sander from most home supply stores. Make sure you wear a respirator face mask, safety glasses, and ear protection when using your sander to prevent any breathing issues. For larger floor repairs, you can get the job done quicker if you use a floor buffer rather than palm sander. Start on an outer edge of your floor, and walk your floor buffer slowly until you reach the far side. Push the buffer as you walk, and the buffer will automatically sand down your flooring. When you reach a far side, pivot and start going the opposite direction. Do this until you cover the entirety of your floor.  You must prepare your concrete so the epoxy will not peel off your floor again. Sanding the floor gives the epoxy something to stick to when it is applied. This way, it will stay on your floor without peeling up. Wear safety glasses, a breathing mask, and ear protection while operating the floor buffer. Go around the entirety of your floor and remove any dust or debris caused from sanding your surfaces. This is helpful because dust will not get trapped in between your concrete and layer of epoxy. Do this if you used either a hand sander or a floor buffer. Purchase denatured alcohol from a home supply store, and pour about 1  c (240 mL) into a bucket. Be sure to wear protective gloves when you do this. Dip a clean rag into the alcohol, and wipe down all of the surfaces you just sanded. Move your hand in a circular motion as you wipe across your floor. This helps prepare the floor for the epoxy coating. You want your rag to be thoroughly saturated but not dripping with alcohol. You can ring it out over the bucket to get rid of excess alcohol. Use the same type of epoxy you used for your first coat, either water-based or solvent-based. Read over the directions on your epoxy package, and mix your epoxy carefully using a drill and stirring bit. Place the tip of your stirring bit into the epoxy mix, and pull the trigger to mix it up. Do this immediately before you install the epoxy.  If your epoxy is not mixed properly, it may lift up and peel away again. Water-based epoxy is clear in color and does not give off hazardous fumes. Solvent-based epoxy adheres will and comes in many colors. Epoxy usually comes in 2 pre-measured parts that should be completely mixed together. After your epoxy is mixed, pour some into a paint tray, and use a paint roller about 3⁄4 in (1.9 cm) wide to apply the epoxy. Start in the back of your room, whether you are repairing minor spots or a full flooring. That way, you will not have to backtrack over your floor. Dip your roller into the paint tray, and paint a thin, even layer of epoxy over top of your floor.  Try to keep the roller wet with epoxy the entire time you apply it. If the roller dries out, it may inconsistently spread the epoxy. If applying epoxy to your garage, it is helpful to leave the door open to help with ventilation. Once you have repaired all of your peeling spots, let your floor sit undisturbed for about 24 hours, depending on the temperature of your environment. You can test to see if your epoxy is dry by placing your thumb on the surface. If you do not leave a print, your floor is dry. You can apply a second coat of epoxy if you’d like once the floor is dry, though this is optional. To get started, mix together an epoxy clear coat just like you did the color coat. Pour this into a clean paint tray, and apply it with a clean, 3⁄4 in (1.9 cm) nap roller. Start at the edge of your floor, and cover all of your floor in an even, thin layer of top coat. Wait about 4-10 hours for your first coat to dry, then apply a second coat to finish your top layer.  To check the application of your top coat, lean down over top of your flooring and look for any areas that are not shiny and wet. Because the top coat is clear, it may be difficult to see if your application is even. If you can, apply a third layer of top coat for best results. This ensures your epoxy will not peel up again.
Summary:
Hire a professional to help you fix your floor if you need assistance. Scrape away the peeling epoxy from your floor using a paint scraper. Use a palm sander and 60-grit sandpaper if repairing small areas. Use a floor buffer and 100-grit sandpaper if replacing most of your floor. Vacuum up the debris using a shop vac. Wipe down your floor with a clean rag dipped in denatured alcohol. Mix your epoxy properly following the instructions to prevent peeling. Reapply your epoxy over all of your floor. Let your epoxy dry for at least 24 hours. Apply a top coat to prevent any further peeling.