Q: Leave the oil in the fryer until it has completely cooled. It should be about room temperature before you attempt to pour it out of the fryer. If you're worried about the oil spilling from the containers, place them in the freezer and let the oil congeal, then discard the containers. Remnants of used grease can cause a fire next time you use the fryer if you don't thoroughly clean it after each use.
A: Let the oil cool before you dispose of it. Pour the oil into disposable containers and throw them away. Clean the grease from your fryer and the burner.

Q: Get a can of wood putty and a putty knife. Open the wood putty and scoop some up using the blade of your putty knife. Rub the putty into your damaged surface to fill it with wood putty. Once the hole is filled, empty your putty knife and scrape the surface repeatedly to remove the excess putty. Wait 24 hours for the putty to completely harden.  Repeat this process for every damaged section of your cabinet. Don’t forget about your doors and drawers! For each step in this process, repeat the action with your doors and drawers. Set them up on your sawhorses or stable work surface to sand, prime, and paint them. To remove the current finish or paint, get a sheet of sandpaper. You can also use a sanding block if you prefer. Scrape each surface of your cabinets, doors, and drawers using a firm, circular stroke. Cover each area 4-5 times to expose the wood’s pores and grind away the current finish. If you aren’t repainting the insides of your cabinet, doors, and drawers, don’t sand them.  You don’t really need to refinish the insides of your cabinets and drawers, but you can if you want! The same applies to the undersides of your cabinet, although many people choose to refinish the undersides of the upper cabinets to make them uniform. However, if the wood underneath your upper cabinets is really thin, you may struggle to sand and paint them without cracking the wood. If you notice that your cabinets have veneer stickers on them to make them look like real wood, do not remove them. Use an 80-grit instead of 120- or 180-grit sandpaper to create a texture in the veneer. Sand them slightly softer than you normally would to avoid cracking or peeling the veneer. Other than using a softer sanding method, you do not need to treat these cabinets differently. Once you’ve sanded the cabinets, there will be a lot of sawdust. To remove it, run a cloth across each surface to rub most of the dust off. Then, turn on a vacuum with a hose attachment. Working your way from the top to the bottom, run the hose across every surface of your cabinets to remove the sawdust.  You don’t have to vacuum the floor if you don’t want, but you may knock up some of the dust into your paint as it’s drying. It’s best to remove the sawdust everywhere if you can. You can use a hand vacuum instead of a hose attachment if you prefer, but it may be awkward to use on the interior edges of the cabinet. Open the windows and turn a fan on to improve the ventilation in the room while you work. Fill a paint tray halfway with an oil-based primer. Load your brush and paint the edges of your cabinets and drawers using back-and-forth strokes and painting in the direction of the wood grain. Brush paint into the recessed details and engravings. Then, use a foam roller to cover the larger panels and flatter surfaces. Continue priming your cabinets, doors, and drawers until you’ve covered every surface.  Wait at least 24-48 hours after applying your primer to give it time to dry. Use the foam roller on any flat sections of your cabinets. Flat sides, front panels, and narrow beams should all be painted with the roller. Use the brush to paint any section of your cabinets that you can’t use a roller to cover. You can use a spray primer if you prefer, but it will be kind of awkward to use indoors and it is difficult to keep it off of the walls and countertop. Once your primer has dried, get another sanding brick or sheet of sandpaper. Repeat the sanding process by using hard, circular strokes to sand your primed surfaces. Cover each surface 4-5 times to ensure that you expose the porous wood underneath.  Vacuum again after you’ve finished sanding your surfaces. You need to sand in order to ensure that your paint adheres to the wood instead of the primer. If you don’t sand, your paint job may look uneven and clunky.
A: Use wood putty to repair damaged or chipped wood and let it dry. Use a 120- to 180-grit sandpaper to sand your cabinets, doors, and drawers. Vacuum the cabinets and the floor to remove any sawdust. Prime your cabinets and wait 24-48 hours for the primer to dry. Sand the primed surfaces with an 80- to 120-grit sandpaper.

Q: In addition to the "property tax" that most people are familiar with for homes and real estate, there can sometimes be other forms of property tax for other forms of property. These taxes on a person's possessions are called personal property taxes and are usually calculated differently than the home property taxes above. The exact properties that will be subject to tax vary greatly from state to state and locality to locality. You can usually learn which forms of property can be taxed from your local tax authority. For example, in California, the Board of Equalization provides online documents covering this topic. Unlike home property taxes, many personal property taxes are not dependent on the value of the item being taxed (though some are.) A great example of this are taxes on cars in the form of registration renewal/tab fees: no matter whether you drive a brand-new luxury sedan or an ancient pickup truck with 200,000 miles on it, you must pay the same amount of money to renew your license plate tabs and keep driving legally.  Many tax authorities will have information available online that can help you find your personal property taxes. For instance, this site lists car tax calculators for the states that offer them (scroll down to see the list.) For example, let's say that we want to buy a car in ABC County USA. Based on the state and local tax codes, we determine that we need to pay two expenses: a single one-time registration tax based on the value of the car and a recurring yearly fee to get our license tabs. If the car is worth $20,000 the registration tax rate is 1.5%, and the license tabs fee is $50, we'll owe 20,000 × 0.015 + 50 = 300 + 50 = $350. Personal property taxes aren't just applied to real, tangible property — they can also extend to things like stocks, bonds, mutual fund shares, and so on. While some forms of personal property tax (like the vehicle registration fee example above) are quite common, taxes on intangible property can vary greatly from state to state, so check your local tax authority for more information.  Sometimes, beneath a certain value, intangible property will be tax free. For instance, before 2007 in Florida, the first $250,000 of property (including most intangibles) was not subject to tax.  In our example, let's say that, in addition to our car, we also have $300,000 of trusts that are eligible to be taxed. If the first $200,000 is tax-free in our state and, after that, the tax is 50 cents per $100 (0.5%) we'll need to pay 100,000 × 0.005 = $500. Once you know all of your personal property tax liabilities, just add them up to determine the total amount of money that you owe. As mentioned above, these sorts of taxes can vary greatly from place to places, so what you pay may not be similar to what someone living somewhere else pays. In our example, if we don't have any other personal property tax liabilities besides our car and our trusts, we'll simply need to pay 350 + 500 = $850.
A:
Determine which possessions will be taxed. Find the tax or fee for each possession. Don't forget intangible possessions. Total your fees and taxes.