Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Feed the line through the hook’s eye and along the shank. Create a small loop and run the leading end under the shank. Wrap the 4 in (10 cm) leading end around the shank 5-7 times. Feed the remainder of the leading end back through your loop. Pull on the leading end while lightly pinching the coils. Pull the leading and standing ends of the line to tighten the knot. Clip the excess leading end to finish the knot.

Answer: Pass about 6 in (15 cm) of the leading end of the line through the eye, or a length that’s twice that of the hook—whichever is longer. It’s up to you which side of the eye to feed the line into, although some people say using the same side as the tip of the hook provides better fishing results.  The “eye” is the closed loop at one end of the hook, and the “shank” is the straight portion of the hook (below the eye and above the curved section). Be careful not to hook yourself while tying any type of snell knot! Keep the line alongside the hook shank about to the point where the curve of the hook starts. At that point, create a loop that is directed away from the curve of the hook. Feed the end of the line (also the end of the loop) underneath both the shank and the line itself, again at the point where the curve of the hook begins. Run about 4 in (10 cm) of excess line under the shank. Make fairly tight coils that don’t overlap, and go around both the shank and the section of line that runs alongside it. Fewer than 5 wraps won’t make a tight enough knot, while more than 7 starts to become overkill (that is, the line will break before the knot will give regardless). Consider 7 wraps to be the “magic number.” After creating 5-7 fairly tight coils, you should have enough free line left to thread through the loop you created earlier. If not, undo 1-2 coils (at the risk of weakening the knot) or, better yet, undo the entire knot and start over. You only need about 0.5–1 in (1.3–2.5 cm) of the leading end to pass through the loop this time; it’s OK if you have more. Use the thumb and forefinger of one hand to keep the coils from unraveling, but don’t pinch them too tightly. With the other hand, pinch the leading end that has passed through the loop and give it a steady tug. Pulling the leading end will tighten the coils against the shank. However, if you don’t pinch the coils, they’ll unravel, and if you pinch them too tight, you won’t be able to pull the leading end. Light pinching pressure is all that’s needed. Slide your pinching fingers from the coils up to the standing end of the line, just beyond where it enters the hook’s eye. Maintain your grip on the leading end with your other hand. Pull firmly on both ends of the line at the same time. This will bring the coils in as tight as possible.  As you tighten them, make sure the coils remain side-by-side and don’t overlap. If they do, loosen the coils a bit, reposition them as needed, and re-tighten them. The coils may tighten more easily if you moisten them a little, either by dipping them in water or spitting on them. Use small scissors or fingernail clippers to snip off the section of line sticking out below the coils. This isn’t necessary if there’s less than about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of excess line, however.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Wear peace and/or love necklaces, earrings, etc. Purchase or make love beads. Wear headbands.

Answer: The sixties was the peace and love decade. Wear them with a pair of bell bottoms and sandals for the hippie look which was fashionable until the mid seventies.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Choose a flat surface to put your decal on. Avoid applying your decal in extreme temperatures. Prepare a cleaning mixture of rubbing alcohol and dish soap. Clean the surface your decal is going on with the mixture. Let the surface dry completely.

Answer: You can put your decal on a wall, glass window, painted wood, the outside of a vehicle, or another non-porous flat surface. Avoid porous surfaces made out of things like brick, cement, and leather, or your decal may not stick properly. Put your decal on your chosen surface when it's between 50–90 °F (10–32 °C) outside or in the room you're applying it in. If it's hotter or colder, the decal won't stick properly. If you're not sure what the temperature is, use a weather thermometer or feel the surface you'll be putting your decal on with your hands. If it feels hot or cold to the touch, you may need to wait to apply your decal. In a spray bottle, add 2 parts dish soap and 1 part rubbing alcohol. Shake the mixture together thoroughly. If you don’t have a spray bottle, mix the alcohol and soap in a bowl and use a rag to apply it. You don’t need a lot of the mixture, just enough to clean the surface your decal will go on. This cleaning mixture should be safe to use on most surfaces. If you're worried about damaging the surface you're putting your decal on, use a milder mixture of dish soap and water to clean it instead. Spray a liberal amount of the mixture onto the surface (or apply it with a rag). Use a clean cloth to wipe down the area where your decal will go. Make sure you get off all the dirt and grime on the surface so nothing interferes with your decal. Use a microfiber cloth or a paper towel to wipe down the surface so it dries faster. Don’t try to put your decal on a wet surface or it won’t stick properly.


Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Place your best starter first. Choose the second runner. Pick a good bend runner for the third leg. End with an eager finisher. Adjust for smooth handoffs.

Answer:
The ideal first runner has an explosive takeoff and never gets disqualified for false starts. This position also requires fast running around the bend of the oval track. The second runner should perfect their baton handling skills, as the second leg involves both receiving and passing the baton. This is a straight leg, so this is a good spot for a fast sprinter who is not really good at bends/curves. This is a great spot for your fastest runner if they are much faster than the other three. This is especially true if your fastest runner is also great at baton handoffs. In general, shorter runners are best around curves because they can accelerate faster than taller runners. This position also benefits from good baton handoff skills, and from the ability to compete under the pressure. Although unorthodox, it could be smart to put your fastest runner here if they are also good on bends. A 200m specialist could do well on this leg. Many teams place their fastest runner last, perhaps so they can claim the glory! In fact, psychology may be more important than raw speed. This runner cannot get discouraged if they start the fourth leg behind the other teams. Choose a competitor who thrives under the end of race pressure.  If your two fastest runners are much faster than the other two, place them second and fourth. This allows you to maximize the distance they run.  At high levels of competition, choose a runner with advanced finishing techniques. This includes "lifting," a running form with light ground contact and rapid knee lifts, and lunging, a carefully timed forward fall so the chest crosses the finish line sooner. All of your planning above will fall apart if an athlete can't perform consistent baton handoffs. Consider these problems before you finalize the positions, and don't hesitate to rearrange if issues arise during practice:  Size differences: If one runner is much taller than another, they may have trouble exchanging batons smoothly. Space them out so they don’t have to do a baton exchange.  If a pair of athletes do not practice well together for temperamental reasons, and the coach cannot solve this problem, consider rearranging so they don't have a handoff together. If one athlete is particularly poor at passing, consider placing them fourth. If an athlete is poor at receiving, consider putting them first.