In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Male and female cockatiels look identical when young. After approximately six to nine months, the bird will molt for the first time and grow a new coat of plumage, typically more colorful and with more variation between the sexes.  A dull coat or faded colors can be a sign of poor nutrition, although sometimes it just takes a couple molts for the full, bright adult plumage to develop. Do not provide a nest-box for juvenile birds, as this can stimulate over-early egg-laying or breeding, which harms the female. Normal grey cockatiels without mutations have grey bodies with a yellow head and orange cheek circles. These can be identified using the steps below. If your cockatiel doesn't match these descriptions, its ancestors have been bred for unusual plumage, and you have a bigger challenge ahead of you. A few identifying characteristics for these breeds are mentioned below, but you will often have to rely on behavioral cues. In normal grey cockatiel breeds, adult females (and all juveniles) have markings on the underside of the tail feathers. These are often horizontal stripes alternating grey/dark grey or white/grey or yellow/grey, but some females have dots or irregular patterning on a grey background. If you don't see any, hold the cockatiel up so its tail is in front of a bright light and examine closely. If you still don't see any markings, the cockatiel is probably a male. Lutino breeds, or pale yellow and pale white birds that still have cheek circles, can be identified by the female's yellow spots under the wings and yellow marks under the tail. You may need to use a bright light in order to see these. In normal grey cockatiel breeds, the male typically has more striking facial feathers, with vivid orange spots standing out from a bright yellow face. The female face has lighter orange spots, generally on a more muted yellow or grey backdrop.  In some breeds, only the males develop a yellow face after molting, while the female keeps her juvenile grey or brownish face.  Cockatiels with the white face mutation but non-white bodies sometimes have males with no cheek spots at all, and females with faint cheek spots that match the body plumage. Cockatiel breeds with grey body plumage tend to include darker grey plumage on males, and lighter grey on females. This is one of the less reliable methods, but it may help confirm suspicions raised by earlier tests. Breeds with non-grey body plumage are rarely identifiable this way.  In some breeds, the female also has faint yellow spots on the underside of the wings.  In pearled cockatiels, which have white dots on a non-white body, the male loses these "pearls" after the first molt, while the female keeps them. The last test that relies on physical anatomy should only be done by a veterinarian. Inexperienced people could seriously hurt the cockatiel during the attempt, and are unlikely to be able to tell the difference anyway. Ask the veterinarian to sex your cockatiel, and he will probably examine the shape of the pelvic bones, which tend to be wider in the female. Even this is not a completely reliable method, as there is a great deal of variation between individuals.  The older a cockatiel is, the more likely this method is to work, especially if the bird belonged to a breeder as an adult and may have laid an egg in the past.  If you want to be completely certain, ask for a DNA test.
Summary: Wait until the bird gets its adult plumage. Check whether your cockatiel has standard plumage. Examine the tail closely. Compare the faces. Compare the body plumage. Take the cockatiel to a veterinarian.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Avoid the temptation of picking off or itching your scabs. Touching, picking at, and scratching your face can dislodge the scabs and interfere with healing. It can also cause scarring, especially if your scabs come off. Dab a thin layer of an over-the-counter antibiotic cream such as Neosporin or Polysporin on your scabs. Do this each time you wash your face or change the scabs over your dressing. Applying these antibiotics products on your scabs can kill lingering bacteria and help maintain moisture. They may also prevent further itching, irritation, or infection.  Use a cotton swab or clean finger to apply your cream or ointment choice. Speak to your doctor before putting anything on a scab. Apply a thin layer of moisturizing product to your skin. Keeping your face and scabs moisturized can keep them from cracking, ripping, off, or itching. The moisture also promotes healing of your scabs and can soothe any skin irritation.  Choose any of the following moisturizing products you’re your face and scabs:  Petroleum jelly Vitamin E Fragrance- and oil-free moisturizer  Aloe vera  Tea tree oil Give your skin a break from makeup while you have scabs. Giving your face and scabs a chance to breathe can reduce irritation, keep your scabs intact, and prevent itching. It can also speed up the healing process. Use oil- and fragrance-free cosmetics on your scabs if you don’t feel comfortable going without makeup. Check your face and scabs every day to see if they’re healing well. Look for symptoms of a possible infection of your scabs or surrounding skin. Seek immediate medical attention if you have:  Persistent redness and pain and swelling Streaks of redness Foul odor Fever of 100°F (37.7°C) or higher for more than 4 hours Pus or thick yellow/green drainage Bleeding that won’t stop If your scab isn’t healing, schedule an appointment with your doctor. Let them know what home care measures you’ve tried and how they’ve helped. Your doctor can figure out why you’re scabs may not be healing properly. They can also treat your scabs to help heal them and the surrounding skin.
Summary: Leave your scabs in place. Apply a protective cream or ointment. Moisturize with care. Let your skin go au-naturel. Watch for infection. See your dermatologist or doctor.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: For cold starting, there is usually a choke lever or "cut-off switch" on the handlebar. On some bikes, there may be a choke lever mounted on the carburetor. Operating this will provide the necessary rich fuel mixture when the motorcycle is "cold" – when it hasn't been used for more than a few hours. The dirtier the carburetor, or the colder the engine is, the more the choke will need to be engaged.  You don't need to use the choke lever when starting a motorcycle "hot." If the motorcycle has been running and the engine is already hot, you won't need as much power to get it going. Just use a small amount of throttle and the engine should fire.  Many bikes have a cut-off switch on the kickstand, so make sure that the kickstand is up as well. Having the bike in neutral will disable the kickstand shutoff.
Summary:
Look for the "choke" lever or cut-off switch.